US1030998A

US1030998A - Buttonhole-sewing machine.

Info

Publication number: US1030998A
Application number: US57663910A
Authority: US
Inventors: James G Greene; Louis F A Buechner
Original assignee: Singer Co
Current assignee: Singer Co
Priority date: 1910-08-11
Filing date: 1910-08-11
Publication date: 1912-07-02
Anticipated expiration: 1929-07-02

Description

J. G. GREENE & L. F. A. BUCHNER.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLIOATION FILED AUG. 11, 1910.

1,030,998. Patented July 2, 1912.

SHEETS-SHEET l.

" um pm; N

. lwmmmm J. G. GREENE & L. E. A. E'LTEENEE.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED AUG.11, 1910.

1,030,998. Patented July 2, 1912.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

WITNESSES:

g... v,/ {MW ATTORNEY J. G. GREENE & L. F. A. BUCHNER.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED AUG. 11, 1910.

Patented July 2, 1912.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

1 llillllllllllll WITNESSES ATTORNEY J. G. GREENE & L. F. A. B'UEENEE. BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED AU(!.11,1910.

1,030,998. Patenteu July 2,1912.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 4.

HTORNE V UNITED' PATENT OFFICE.

JAMES o. GREENE AND LOUIS A. BiiCI-INER, or ELIZABETH, new JERSEY, essren- Specification of Letters Patent.

NG COMPANY, A CORPORATION OF NEW BU'r'roNHoLE-sEwING MAoniNE.

Patented July 2,1912.

Application filed August 11, 1910. Serial No. 576,639.

To all whom it may concern:

I! v Be it known that we, JAMES G. KTREENE aHd'LOUIS F. A; Btiomvnn, citizens of the UnitedState-s; residing at Elizabeth... in the county QfiUnion and State of New Jersey, have invented certain new and useful Imstitching eyed buttonholes in which the work-clamp has a longitudinal feeding movement to space the side stitchesand the stitch-forming mechanism makes a semirotation for laying the radial stitches around the, semi-circular end of the eye.

The inventionhas for its object to provide an effective feeding mechanism in which thetraverse of the. work-clamp shall be equal in both directions regardless of the adjustment of the machine, and in which the spacing of the side stitches and radial eyelet-end stitches will be uniform at any speed of operation of the mechanism and in which the feeding and lateral shifting movements of the workclamp shall have a timingunder all conc it-ions.

In its preferred form,- the present improvement' is embodied in a machine pro vided with'rotary stitch-forming mechanism and a traveling workplamp, and comprises a rotary feed-wheel suitably connected with the work-clampand two ratchet-wheels connected together and to the feed-wheel, such ratchet-wheels being actuated by independent spring-pressed pawls mounted'upon a common carrier and provided with littingmeans whereby they are alternately retracted from operative relation, with their respective ratchet-wheels whose connection v.

with the feed-wheel is such as to turnthe same in opposite directions for producing corresponding movements of the. work-. clamp. The turning device for the stitch forming mechanism is-actuated by a connection with a third ratchetrwheel adapted for engagement ova pawl also mounted upon said reciprocating carrier and provided with suitable lifting means, the operation of the several lifting means being so timed that the stitch-forming mechanism is turned intermediate the actuation of the respective redetermined relative ratchet-wheels acting through the feed-wheel to impart to the work-clamp its advance and retrograde movements.

Therimprovement includes certain features of construction which will be hereinafter described and set forth in the appended claims. v

In the drawings, Figure 1 is a. front side elevation of a buttonhole stitching machine embodying the present improvements, and" Figs. 2 and 3 are perspective views upon a larger scale representlng opposite sides of the rearward portion of the machine.

3 is an enlarged detail view of the feedactuai-ing cam. Fig. 4 IS a sectional elevation of a portion of the main-shaft and power a transmitter applied thereto. Fig. 5 is a perspective view of the work-plate and travelmg clamp supported thereby, with certain portions omitted to expose the constructive features, and Fig. 6 a sectional elevation of the work-plate and'clamp-slides. Fig. 7 is a plan of the work-clamp shifting camplate. the means for producing-the side-shifting movements of the work-clamp. Fig. 8 1s perspective view of the feed-pawl controller. Flg. 9 is a perspective view of one of the feed-pawls and its lift-er and detainer. Fig. 10 is a perspective view of a portion of the starting :device.

gear-wheel; and-Figs. 14 and 15 are detait perspective views of parts of the trip-ping means for elfecting the stoppage of the machine. at the completion of the stitching operation. i

{is represented in the drawings; the m1;- chine is constructed with a frame comprising the bed-plate 1 from which rises a ver: tical web in the form of a thick plate cut out in the forward portion to form the bar-1c member 2 supporting the fixed work-plate 3,.the standard 4 and overhanging arm 5 a which latter with the standard 4 is strengthened by therib 6 extending from the rear of the bed-plate upwardly and forwardly i the upper boss 7 afiording one of the bean ings for the rotary needle-bar-bushings, the other ofwhich isjournaled in the lower Fig. 7 is a plan view'representing 5 I Figs. 11', 12 and 12 are. a l perspective views showing different end withthe pinion 49. The loopers 50,

bearing boss 8. The'side cover-plates, for nclosmg spaces upon opposite sides of such web between the rib 6 and bed-plate 1, are omitted from the drawings to expose the feeding and other mechanisms.

Journale-d in suitable bearings in the standard 4 is the transverse main 'or'drivy ing shaft 9 from which the stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms "derive their operative movements. The main-shaft has fixed upon its rearward end portion by means of source of power. The constantly runningclutch-wheel 14- is coupled to the clutchwheel'l2 by means presentlyto be described.

The stitch-forming mechanism in the presentv machine is arranged and operated similarly to that shown and described in our United States Patent No. 949,729, dated Februaryq 15, 1910. The needle-bar 21 is mounted for reciprocation in rotary bushings journaled in the bearing bosses 7 and 8, and the upper one is provided with a pinion 22 by m eans of which it may be rotated. It is provided with a pivotal and sliding connection 23 with the forward end of a rock-lever 24 mountedupon the fulcrum-stud 25 and connected at its rearward end. with one end of the pitman 26 whose other end embraces a crank-pin 27 upon the pinion 28 meshing with the gear-wheel 29 fixed upon the mainshaft 9. As shown more fully in our said patent the needle-clamp 30, carrying the needle 31 is pivotally mounted at 32 upon an arm 33 carried by the needle-bar, and receives its lateral jogging movements from a sliding connection with the depending arm '34 of the rocking frame 35 pivotally connected with the reciprocating link-bar 36 having the grooved ring 37 with a pivotal and sliding connection 38 with the forward arm of the rock-lever 39 fulcrumed at 40 upon the bracket, 41 and having its rearward arm connected at 42; with the rocklever 43 fulcrumed at 44 and provided with a roller-stud 45 entering a cam-groove 46 formed in the outer face of the gear-wheel 29.

The 'looper mechanism is mounted in the frame 47 secured upon the top of the rotary bushing 48 which is provided at the lower only one of which is shown in Fig. 1, are mounted upon the rocking carrler 51.fixed upon the rock-shaft 52 journaled in the frame 47, the carrier having an operative connection with the reciprocating pitmanrod 53 passing through the bushing '48 and having a sliding pivotal connection at 54 imparting vertical reciprocating movements to the pitman-rod 53 from which the carrier-51 derives its oscillating movements. The loopers have cooperating therewith spreaders 61, only one of which is shown in the drawings. The frame 47 carries an upwardly extending arm 62 which is provided with the circular needle-throat 63 having the needle-slot 64 and arranged slightly eccentric to the axis of the rotary bushing 48 in relation to a diameter corresponding with the needle-slot, for a purpose to be hereinafter explained.

The rectangular Work-plate 3 is provided at opposite ends with'alined transverse undercut slots affording guideways for slideblocks 65 secured by means of fastening screws '66 upon the under side of the cross slide-plate 67 formed with a rectangular opening 68 having parallel undercut longi-. tudinal edges 69 to which are fitted the similarly formed longitudinal edges 70 of the clamp slide-plate 71 which is provided with thelongitudinal guide-slot 72 closely' embracing the needle-throat 63 and having an enlargement 72 atone end. The marginal portions of the slide-plate 71 adjacent the guide'slot 72 afford the lower jaws of the work-clamp whose upper jaws are afforded by the feet 73 pivotally attached to the clamp-arms 74 fixed to blocks 75 which aremounted upon the rocking pin 76 journaled in the bearing bracket 77 secured upon the slide-plate 71. The rocking pin 76 has secured upon one'end the finger-lever 78 and is formed intermediate its ends with acrank 79 embraced by the forked arm 80 fulcrumed upon the transverse pin 81 which is journaled in the bearing bracket 77 and .operatively connected with the yoke 82 whose oppositely extending members are adapted to bear upon the clamp-arms 74 to force theupper clamp-jaws 73 downward upon the work-in opposition to the springs 83 interposed betweensaid clamp-arms and the top of the bracket-piece 77. The arrangement of the crank is such that the direction of its pressure upon the fork 80 is substantially diametrical'relative to-the pin 76 when the clamp is closed upon the work.

At one side of theclamp-plate 71, the work-plate 3 is provided with a longitudinal guide-slot 84 and a marginal recess 85 in its upper face nearone end of said slotin which is secured by means ofv fastenmg screws ]86 {M ssing thxoughl' suitable ape rtimes 87 r, therein-j the calmpl'ate 11' 8.8 formed v The clampepla te'il provided gatfoneend with a forkediiugyQl to-lwhich-is-connected by means of thepin fil one. end 4 of. a. jointed connected by means of the-i screw-pin 94 -to a l'ug 95i-upon the-sliding. rack-bar 96 mount:

' wheel-135 mounted upon a t nsverse shaft ed 111 a aguideway '97- provided therefor upon the-standard 4. The rack teeth upon the- 'loweriedge' of the rack-bar 96 mesh with the peripheral teeth of the pinion 98 constituting the feed-"wheel and fixed upon ,tlie transierserotaryishaft'w journaled iii-"the standard 4. The-shaft SEQ-has fired upon it adjavvnt the feed-wheel '98 the-ratchet-wheel 100 md the gear-wheel 101"(Fig;;- 2-);meshing with asimilar gear-wheel 102 upon the fixed 1nd 103 and having secured to-itthe second ratchet-wheel 104. The feed-wheel 98, ratchet-wheel 100 and gear-wheel 101 thus 1: move in unison and are connected to turn si the opposite direction from the geary-"heel. 102 and connected ratchebwh'eel 104, and thus the actuation of either ratchetwheel will cause the-feed-wheel 98 te r in one or the other direction to iinpare ciprocal longitudinal feeding movements to the clamp-plate 71 through the rack-har 96 and link-bar 93.

The main-shaft 9 carries an actuating eccentric 105 upon which is fitted the slide block 106 embraced by the forked arm 107 of a rock-lever mounted uponthe fulcrumstud 108 and provided with a rearwardly extending arm 109 to the outer end of which is secured by means of the bolt 110 a segmental plate 111 disposed concentrically with the fulcrum-stud 108and constituting the pawl-carrier. The depending lower portion of the carrier-plate 111. enters the taper peripheral groove 112 of a guide-roller 113 fixed upon one end of the shaft 114 which is journaled in a bracket 115 bolted to the standard 4 near the bed-plate 1 and which is provided with'a collar 116 upon its opposite end. The carrier is thus steadied in its reciprocatory movements "around the ,fulovum-stud 108 Journaled in the pawl-can rier parallel with the shaft 99 and studs 103i and 108 are rocking pins 117 to the forward 120 and 121 and lifting

arms

122 and 123,

respectively; the pawl 118 being adapted to engage the peripheral teeth oi the ratchetwheel 104 and the pawl 7T to similarly en- 122 and 123'respectively.- r

gage :the teeth of the ratchetwheel..100, under-the action of their respective springs 124 each. having one end, secured tothe carrier 111 and the other end bejaring upon'the-arm H The. pinions 2-2 and :49}. upon-the upper needle bar bushing 'and lo oper-frame bushing 'are engaged by teeth. upon the forward ends of the rack-ha $1 125 and 126 having.- upon. their rearward ends-series of rackteeth 127 and -128 engaging? pinions 12hand 130 fixed respectively upori the'upper and lower ends of 'the vertical shaft 131 mounted in bearlngs l3'2- and 133;of',t he standard ,4. The shaft 131 "has fixed thereonthe'bevelpinion 134 meshing-with a largecbevel 136 ouriialed in the-standa 4 and having rm-138 adapted for-operative engagement with the peripheral teetlf'of the ratchetpwheel 137 and angularly disposed detent and lifting arnis 189 andll40, this pawl niember bein spring-pressed similarly to thatrepresented in detail in Fig. 9 to-cause' (it to assume operative relation ,with the ri ratchet-wheel 137. v To prevent the "retrograde movement of the ratchet-wheel 137 under the action of its actuating pawl 138, a detent-pawl 141 is mountedupon' a fixed fulcrum-stud 142 and is normally pressed in engagement with the ratchet-wheel by means of a spring 143 having one end-secured in position by the screw 144- The ratchet-Wheels 100 and 104 are similarly prevented from retrograde move-. ment under the action of their respective actuating pawls by a friction device consisting of a drum 145 secured to the rearward end of the feed wheel shaft 99 and encircled by a frictionband 146. through-whose apert-ured ends passes the pin-147 secured at one end to the stud 148 and having upon-the opposite threaded end the thumb-nut 149' between which and the adjacent end of the band 146 is interposed a spring 150 whose tension, and conscipientlythe effect of the friction-band upon the drum, isvadj'ustable by means of the nut- 14.'-).

Adjacent the pawl-members mounted upon the carrier 111 are swinging pawl-detaining arms 151, 152 and 153 each being constructed, substantially as represented in Fig. 9, with a fulcrumpin 154 around which is coiled a spring 155 cpnnected at one end with the carrier and at the otherend with the detaining arm; and said arm is provided at itsouter end with a notch 156 to afford a shoulder 157 for engagement with its respective detent-arm 120,121 or 139 in maintaining the pawl retracted from the ratchet-wheel in opposition to the spring 124. This notch 156 further provideslia also fixed'J-the reon,the ratch-et-wheel 137.' I

Journaled'upon'the reciprocating carrier is althird rocking pin; provided with a pawlas represented in 'Fig. 9,v with .an integral fulcrum-stud 164 around which is coiled the spring 165 with one end, attached to thepawl-carrier and the other end resting against the tripping arm 166, 167 and-168,

respectively, the latter resting normally contact with the stop-pin 169 upon.- the, pawl-carrier. 102 has upon its outer face near the periphery a tripping stud 170 normally'distant from the tripping arm 166 ,of the springpressed pawl-lifting arm 161, and after the propelling action has been initiated between the reciprocating pawl 118 and the ratchet- .wheel 104, the tripping stud 170 is carried by the rotation of the gear-wheel 102 into a position-wherein it isv forcibly engaged by the tripping arm 166 ,upon the retrograde movement .of the carrier, which brings the lifting arm 161 into forcible engagement with the arm 122 of the pawl 118, therebiy lifting the latter and-interrupting the step by-step rotation of; the ratchet-wheel 104 and connected gear 102 from which operative movements are' communicated through the gear 101 to the feed-wheel 98.

The lifting

member

161, 166 is provided with-an arm 171 carrying a swivel-pin 172 in a transverse aperture of which is secured bv means of the set-screw 173 one end of a pull-rod 174 whose opposite end is formed with a hook 175 embracing astud-pin 176 carried by an ofi'set lug 177. ofthe detent arm 153; and the engagement of the. tripping pin 170 upon the lifting member 4161 166 therefore acts through the pull-rod174 to retract the detent-arm 153so'as to permit the pawl 138 to assumeoperative relation with its respective ratchet-wheel 137 under the action ofits spring. By this means the ratchet-wheel 137 is rotated, and acts through the bevel-wheels 135 and. 134 to turn the shaft. 131 whose operative connections with bushings carrying the upper and lower stitch-forming devices by means of the rack-bars l 25 and 126 produces a semirotation of the stitching mechanism at the end of the initial longitudinal feeding'opv eration' The ratchet-wheel 137 carries a tripping The reversely moving gear "it-he machine frame.

lug 178 formed upon a segmental plate 179 having elongated apertures 180 entered by the fastening screws 181 tapped into the side ofthe ratchetwheel 137 and thus serving to secure the tripping-lug 178 adjustably thereon. The tripping lug 17 8 is normally at some distance from the annx'168'of the pawl-lifter 163, but in the travel of the same induced by the reciprocatingpawl 138, the lug 178 forcibly engages the arm 168 and Shifts the arm 163 into engagementwith the arm 140 of the pawl for interruption of its operative relation with the ratchet-wheel 137. The lifting arm 163 carries a tripping pin 182, which, in-the operativemovement of-such.,arm, engages the inclined extremity 183 of a bent rod 184 embraced by the guide-loop 185 and-pivotally connected at its opposite end by means of the screw 186' with the pawl' detainer 152, whereby the lat ter'is disengagedrfrom the arm 121' of the pawl 119 and such pawl is permitted under the action of its spring 124 to assume operative relation with the peripheral teeth of the ratchet-wheel 100. The operative movement of this ratchet-wheel causes themovementof the feed-wheel 98 in a direction op- .posite to that initially imparted by the rotation of the ratchet-wheel 104, and to the action of the rack-bar 96 whereby the workclamp is given its reverse longitudinal. feeding movement for the stitching of the second side of the buttonhole.

Mounted upon the fulcrum-stud 108 of the rock-lever 107 109 is a plate 187 of sectoral form having an aperture 188 embracing such fulcrum-stud and a radial arm 189 formed with a transverse slot 190 entered by a clamp-screw 191 tapped into the rib 6 of the frame. To the segmental outer member of this plate are adjustably secured the pawl-

shield plates

192 and 193 each constructed with an angularly arranged foot 194 formed with a slot 195 entered by a fass tening screw 196 by means of which it is secured tothe carrying plate 187 for slightcircular adjustment." A third shield-plate 197 is formed upon a segmental member 198' having a foot 199 provided with a slot 200 and secured adjustably to the carrying plate 187 by means of the fastening screw '201', while the opposite end of such member is also provided with a foot-piece 202 having a slot 203 entered by the guide-screw 204 which is tapped into the base member 2 of The operative edges 192%; 193 and 197" of the shield-plates 192, 193 and 197 are normally so'disposed'in relation to the actuating pawls 118, 119 and 138 that these pawls engage each alternate tooth of their-respective ratchet-wheels in each reciprocation of the pawl-carrier 111, but by loosening the clamp-screw 191- and shifting the shield-carrying plate 187 by means of-the armv 189, the several shields 192, 193 and 1197 are caused to advance in the direction of operative movement of the several pawls and to maintain the same lifted out of operative engagement with the .s 'ratchet-wheels through a portion of their operative movementyso as to pass over the top of one tooth for engagement with the succeeding tooth, thereby providing for adjustment ojf the machine for a more or less rapid movement of :the respective ratchetwheels by which the spacing of the stitches along the sides and around the eye is produced.

While not an essential partof the present improvement, the starting and stopping del vice by which the clutch upon the main-shaft is operated isin the present embodiment 9f this improvement concerned in the initiation of the feeding and side-shifting movements.

of the work-clamp and its return-to initial position, and this will now be described.

Loosely mounted'upon a rock-shaft 205 journaled in the frame is the hub206of a starting lever 207 having an angularly arranged arm 208 carrying a clamp-screw209 entering a segmental slot 210 in one of the arms 211 of a plural-armed leverhaving an operating .arm 212 and a depending arm 213 carrying the-oppositely extending transverse pins 214 and 215, this plural-armed lever being fulcrumed by means of the studscrew. 216 uponthe arn1'208 of the starting lever with which it is thus rigidly and adjustably connected. Fulcrumed upon the stud-screw 217 tapped into the end of the rocking pin 205 is an angle-lever having one arm 218 formed in its extremity with a notch 219' adapted to embrace the pin 214 and another arm 220 with a notch221 in'its extremity embracing a stud 222 upon a fo-rwardly \ext'ending arm 223 .fixed upnn the rockingjst-ud 224 carrying-a rearwardlyfi ex tendingsarm' 225 provided .1 with a tapered extremity 22.6 mannin upon-its. upper sideia hook 227 to which is connected one end of a spring 228havin .itsopp'osi te'endconnected to the screw-Stu 229 tapped into. the standard 4. "The stud-22 4 is journaled in a suitable beari gb SS 230 of the bracket 231 secured to the front sid eof the machine frame, and has secured thereto upon the opfposite. side of the standard 4by means of the 239 inter osed between the inner end of an axial. soc 'et in the nain-shaft. 9 and the inner end. of a plug 4. whose outerv end ing bracket 231 by which the latch-lever is .wardly':

justablyythereto by means of the screw 235 rests against the inner face of the disk 238;- The rocking of the stud 205 by the actuation of the starting lever 207 thus operatesto force the driving clutch-wheel 14 into operative relation with the driven jclutch "1 wheel 12- to set inmotion the stitch-forming Y and feeding mechanisms, and the reverse movement of,.this stud under .theaction of the spring 228 upon the lever-arm 225 causes the disengagement oflsuch clutch-wheels in stopping the stitch forming and .feeding mechanisms. a i

Journaled upon a stud 241 tapped into the foot of the bracket 231 and held thereon by means of-the screw 242 .and washer 243 is the hub 244 of a latchdever 245 having se- 7 cured to its outer end by means of the screw 246 the latch-plate 247. having a notch in .i'ts lower forward corner to afford an engagings houlder for the extremity of the-lever- 8 arm' 225 upon the rocking stud 224; The latch-lever 245 has secured thereto one end of a spring 248 whose opposite end is connected toa screw-eye 249 secured in the bean 9O drawn forwardly normally into engagement with the lever-arm 225. The lever 245- is furtheriprovided in itslower portion with a perforated boss 250 carrying the adjustable contact-screw 251" adapted. for engagement with the. operative end portion 252 of the upwardly extending arm 253' of a shift-lever fulcrumed upon the fixedfstud 254 andhaving a depending arm 255 with an inturned 'toe 256 extending toward the rim of the 1 gear-wheel 101.

The gear-wheel 101 is formed in its outer face with an undercut annular groove 257 entered byfguidelugs 258 upon the inner face of the} block 259 provided with a lug 105 260 carrying-an'outwardly rojecting tr-ipping. pill {261 whose path-o 'movement em- B oflthe lever-arm 255 and t cam-edge 262 of a rearprojecting arm 263 uponthe hub of 19 the detent paw-l" 141.' The"bl o'ck 259 is 7' formed with. an a}1))erture-264 entered by the shank of a clampoltt 265 having an under- "cut T-head266 fitted within the groove 257 r I of the gear-wheel. '101" .and provided with the 'clamp-mit. 2671b I, means of which the. block 259 issecruedj or circular adjustment upon'su'ch gearfwheel. The gear-wheel is formed with a transverse aperture 268' to permit-[the insertion 5tthehea d 266' of th bolt 265*in assembling the parts.

Extending from the hub 233 in the opposite direction fromthe'clutch-arm 234 is a second arm 269 having a forked lug 270 in which is secured by means of a pivotal screw-stud 271 one, end of a link 272 whose opposite'end is connected by means of the screw-stud 273 with a crank-arm 274 fulcrumed upon the fixed stud 275 and having an upwardly and rearwardly'extending- 5 I .niember 276 in which i's's'ecured the tripp1ng pin .277 'having'Tan inc-l ined wearing face 278 at itsextreinityladapted toengage the extremity 160- ofthe arm 159 upon the fulcrum-pin 154 "ofthepawl-detaining arm 151." Thepivotal screw-stud 273' also-affords I a", fulcrum for the angular catchElever-279' having a shoulder 280 adapted-for engagement with the underside of'jtlie fixed stud 148' and a tail 281' extendingbeyond the same and normally.lying inpthe path of the "stud 282 upon 'theirear wall of the friction drum'14'5 carried b'y-th'e feed-wheel shaft 99.

7 The catch-lever 279jislnorma lly pressed'by means of a spring 2831 towardcperati've re a lation with the-studgz148s V f 1 -When the parts-are in starting position, prior to the actuation ef-the starting, lever 207,. the operative eXt-remity 'of the levelarm 225 is in' upper position and out of locking relation withthe latch-lever 245, the clutch-arm 234 is lowered-but of operative relation with the driving clutch-wheel 14, the clutch-lever arm 269 correspondingly raised and the crank-arm 274 elevated to bring the locking shoulder 280 of the catch- .lever 279 above the center-"of the stud 148,

while the operative extremity'o'f the trip.- ping pin 277'is' above the wearing face 160 .of the tripping arm 159. The tripping pin 261 upon the gear-wheel 101 is in stopping position and in contact with the toe 2560f the angle-lever 253 255 whereby the latchlever 245 is held retracted from engagement with the lever-arm 225, and the tripping 1 pin 261 is also in engagement with the arm 263 of the holding pawl 141 by means of which the ratchet-Wheel 137 is freed for rotation in either direction. Downward pressure upon the starting lever 207 causes the turning of the rock-shaft 205 for the coupling of the driving and drivenclutch- I wheels 14and 12 and depression of the fularm :159 of the pawl-detaining arm 151, by

means of which the pawl 118 is permitted to assume operative engagement with the ratchet-wheel 104 whereby the train of gearing between the pawl-carrier 111 and feedwheel 98 is set in motion to impart the initial longitudinal feeding movement to the work-clamp. The connection of the gear-wheel 102 with the wheel 101 causes the movement of the latter in adirec'tion to retract the tripping pin 261 from the parts- 256 and 263, whereby the latch-lever 245 is permitted, under the action of its spring248, I

to. assume operative relation with the loverarm 225 to lock the-clutch-controlling parts.

priorto t-hefendof such cyc e the lug '282 engages the ftail of the catch-lever 279 "by which the latteris disengaged from-the stud 2148 to ermit the risefof the "lever-arm 269 in stopplngthemachine. In the actuation of the feed-wheel 98' for producing-the Z retrograde feed ng..m ovement .of the work- 'clamp, the ratchet-wheel 100 with itsattached gear-wheel"101 are rotated in the opposite direction from that impart-ed initia'lly by the gear-wheel 102 attached to the ratchet-wheel 104; and the tripping pin 261 vthus. advances toward the members 256 and 141 up on the ratchet-wheel 137 and disen gagement of the latch-lever 245 from the lever-arm 225, which latter is thereupon ,dra'wn'- upwardly by its spring 228 and the rocking stud 224 turnedto disengage the clutch-arm 234 fromthe driving clutchwheel 14. -The' rise of the clutch-lever arm 269 by this act-ion draws the crank-arm 274 upwardly and the shoulder 280 of .the catchlever27 9 out of register with the stud 148, at the same time bringing the operative end 278 of the tripping pin 277 again above the cam-shaped extremity of the pawl-detent tripping arm 159. i H

The driving clutch-wheel, 14 isprovided upon its rim with a l-annular series of gearteeth 284 meshing with the teeth of'an idlerpinion 285 upon the stud 286 mounted in the bearing bracket 287, such idler-wheel 263 which it engages at substantially the same time for retraction of the detent-pawl meshing with avpinion 288'mounted upon the stud 289 also journaled in the bearing bracket 287. The pinion-288 is fixed upon constructed each with an annular series of peripheral teeth of which a section equival-entin width to the length of the operative portion of the worm is mounted upon a radially yielding spring-pressed block, as'rpresented in detail in Fig. 12 inrconnection with the worm-wheel 298. As shown'in this figure, the worm-wheel. is cut away upon one side to form a radial slot 299 for reception "of the slide-block 300 provided upon the outer end with worm-teeth 301 and uponthe.

opposite end-with'a'i slidingly fitted a ldngitaainaislataoe 'in'the boss 302 whose ends itis adaptedto engage.- Theblock 300 isj'pro'vided with a lateral lug 307 normally engaged by the cannned extremity 308 of a lever-"309 fulcrumed upon'the stud-screw 310 and-1 normally drawn downwardly into enagement with the to of the lower bearing ug 294'by means of t 1e spring 311 connected at one end with said lever and at the other end to a 1111312 upon the machine frame,

'with the heelof the cammed extremity 308 Fixedupon the-111g 313 projecting from the frame by means of the screw 314 is the foot of a' spring-holding-arm 315 whose enlarged upper end' is provided in one edge with a notch 316normally embracing the lug 307 of the yielding worm-wheel section 300 in its inner or retracted position, when engaged of the lever 309. The lifting of the lever 309 by means presently to be described acts to disengage the lug 307 from the lower end of the .cam member 308, and thus permits the worm-wheel section 300 to spring outward into operative engagement with the worm 296 whereby rotary motion is imparted to the worm-wheel. As the worm-wheel nears the. completion. of a rotation, the lug I 307 engages the upper end of the cammed end 308 of the lever 309, on the return to initial lowered osition, and is gradually forced inward fy so as to disengage the toothed section 300 from the worm, the lug 1307 at the same time swinging the yielding arm 315 backwardlv until it comes into register with the holding notch 316 at the end of a complete rotation, when the arm 315 lsnaps into normal position wherein it embraces and securely holds the lug 307 to prevent the further turning of the worm-wheel, the opposite face of the arm 315 resting against the adjacent end of the stop-plate 317 having the elongated screw-apertures 318 entered by the fastening screws 319 by which it is adjustably secured n 3011 the side of the lever 309. It will thus be seen that thenotched operative end of the spring-arm 315 first snaps over the lug 307 to lock.the

worm-wheel from further movement at the end of a rotation, while the disengagement" of such lug from the cam-member 308 permitsthesame to escape from the holdlng notch 316- for a succeeding rotation.

The worm-wheel 298 is mounted upon aworm-wheel section.

shaft 320 which carries a gear-wheel 321 adapted to rotate with said worm-wheel and meshing with a gear-wheel 322 having a hub loosely mounted upon the rearward end of the shaft 136. Pivotally mounted upon the gear-wheel hub 323'by means of screw pins 324 is a rocking yoke 325 having a radially projecting dog 320 normally pressed outwardly by means of a, spring 327, interposed between the-same and a socket in the gear-wheel The yoke is provided with a stop-finger 328 adapted to engage the adja-v cent face of the gear-wheel to limit the tilting motion of the yoke. Fixed uponthe rear.- ward end of the shaft 136 by means of the set-screw -329is a collar 330 having an offset and inwardly projecting finger 331 adapted for engagement with the side of. the dog 326- when maintained in its outer position under Below the the action of the spring 327. gear-wheel 322 the frame is provided with an outwardly projecting lug 332 to whichis adjustably secured by means of the screw 333 entering a slot 334 therein the shank 335 ofa tripping lug 336 having an inclined operative face 337 arranged in the ,normal path of circular movement of the dog 326,

and with its inner extremity in substantial register with the inner end of the finger 331.

The lifting of the lever 309 after the stitching of the buttonhole brings the continuou'sly rotating worm-shaft 293 into operative relation with the gear-wheel 322 upon which the yoke 325 is mounted, whereby the dog 326 iscaused to move from the upper position represented in Fig. 3 engaging and carrying with it the finger 331 of the collar 330, whereby the turning shaft 136 for the stitching mechanism is rotated until the dog 326 encounters the inclined operative edge 337 of the tripping lug 336 upon completion of a semirotation, as represented in Fig. 11, when the dog is forced inwardly and thus disengaged from the finger 331, and the gear-wheel 322 completes its rotation idly, the stitch-forming mechanism having been returned to initial positiolrpreparatory to a succeeding stitching operation.

As before stated, the worm-wheel 297 is provided with a yielding section which is similarly controlled by means of the lever 338 mounted upon the fixed fulcrum-pin 339 carrying at its outer end the cam member the shank 349 of a wiper-arm 350 whose inclined outer extremity is adapted to engage the contact arm 343 of the catch-block.

The front face of the worm-wheel 297 has secured thereon by means of the screws 351 a cam-block 352 carrying the crank-pin to which is connected the rearward end of the reciprocatory buttonhole-cutter actuating bar 354, the cam-block 352 being adapted for engagement with the inclined edge 355 of a lever 356 fulcrumed upon the screw-stud 357 and connected by means of the pivotal screwpin 358 with one end of a bent link 359 whose opposite end is connected by means of the screw-pin 360 with the lever 309, whereby the latter is actuated from the cut-teractuating worm-wheel 297 through the swing ing lever 356.

As before described, when the machine is at rest, the clutch-lever arm 269 is in its up per position, in which the operative extremity of the wiper-arm 350 is above the contact arm 343 of the catch-block. When the clutch-lever is rocked for startin the machine, the wiper-arm 350 moves downwardly with its carrying arm 269 and in en gaging the catch-block arm 343 merely turns the same aside in opposition tothe spring 346; but when the catch-lever is turned in the opposite direction in stopping the machine, the wiper-arm 350 is prevented from turning the catch-block upon its fulcrumpin 342 by the engagement of the arm 3 14.- with the stop-pin 345, and hence the lever 338 is lifted to disengage the cam member 340 from the movable section of the wormwheel 297, whereby the latter is given a complete rotation by the worm 295 for successive actuation of the cutting mechanism and lifting of the lever 356 whereby the stitchforming mechanism is returned to initial position. When the initially acting pawl 118 is in operative relation with the ratchetwheel 104. the ratchet-wheel137 is in its normal position, in which the tripping lug 178 is farthest removed from the arm 168 of the pawl-lifter 163, and the finger 331 of the collar 330 is in its lower position as represented in full lines in Figs. 3 and 11. At the end of the eyelet stitching operation, the shaft 136 has been turned under the action of the ratchet-wheel 137 and pawl 138 through a quarter-rotation, and occupies the lateral position represented in dotted lines in Fig. 11 as before explained. 7

To insure against overthrow of the stitchtorming mechanism in stitching the buttonhole eye, an escapement device for the turning mechanism may be provided such as that represented in Fig. 2. In the figure referred to. the rearward end of the rack-bar 126 is shown provided with a forwardly offset portion 126 to which is removably securedby screws 361 a supplemental rack-bar having its overlapping portion provided with a series of rack-teeth 362 terminating in an upwardly extending stop-lug 363 and formed with a rounded portion 364 passing through an aperture in a guide-lug 6" formed upon the rib 6 of the machine frame. Mounted upon a fixed stud 365 extending from the base 2 is the hub 366 of a swinging lever 367 having at its free end a laterally extending member 368 formed in its upper portion with a longitudinal slot within which is pivotally mounted, by means of the pin 369, the rearwardly extending lug 370 of a toothplate 370 formed with wedge-shaped lower edge 371 normally disposed above the plane surface of the initial end of the auxiliary rack-bar and adapted to successively engage the teeth 362 thereof and finally encounter the stop-lug 363 in the turningof the stitchforming devices. The tooth-plate 370 is yieldingly held in normal position with its toothed lower edge in operative relation with the supplemental rack-bar by means of the spring 37 2 having its opposite ends connected with hooks carried by the tooth-plate and the hub 366 of the lever 367, respectively, and isadapted to yield upwardly freey when the rack-bar is moved rearwar dly during the turning of the stitch-forming mechanism into initial position after a buttonhole stitching operation. The lever 367 has a rearwardly extending boss 367 carrying a stud 373 embraced by the lower end of a link 374 pivotally connected at its opposite end by means of the screw-stud 37.3 with a depending ear 376 of the segmental pawlcarrier 1.11. The reciprocation of the carrier 111 for each alternate stitch causes the corresponding rising and falling movement of the detaining tooth 371 intermediate the teeth 362, the device thus serving as the escapement for positively limiting the forward movement of the rack 120 for each impulse imparted thereto through its connections with the ratchet-wheel 137 in turning the stitching devices. To provide for different spacings of the eye-stitches, interchangeable auxiliary rack-bars with ratchet-teeth of rlifi'erentpitch may readily be employed.

In the use of the machine, the operator sits at the extreme left, as viewed in Fig. 1. and a single movement of the hand toward the rear serves to't-hrow the clamp-operating lever 78 backwardly to close the clamp and move the starting lever 207 backwardly and downwardly to actuate the clutch-lever for bringing the clutch-wheels 12 and 11 into operative relation whereby the mainshaft 9 is rotated, and the wiper-arm 277 278 is simultaneously depressed to tilt the pawl-detaining lever-arm .159 for release of the pawl 118 for operative engagement with the driving ratchet-wheel 101 acting through the

gear wheels

102 and 101 to rotate the feed-wheel 93 for imparting the initial side-stitching feed-motion to the work-clamp. The clamp-plate 71 carries its with the arrival of the roller-stud 90 at the rounded end portion of the cam-slot 89 in the cam-plate 88, and the further advance of the slide-plate 71 thus causes the stud 90 to move laterally to the extreme end of andv into the center of the width of the cam-slot 89, while the needle-throat similarly follows the curvature of the enlargement 72 of the needle aperture, to a position at one end -of the transverse diameter of such enlargement, whereby the first side-shifting movement of the clamp-plate 71 and work-clamp is produced, as-represented diagrammatlcally in Fig. 7, wherein the dotted line a represents the path of the axis of the needlebar and looper-support guiding bushings relative to the clamp-plate 71, the feed being arrested when such axial line reached the center of the needle-aperture enlargement 72". At this time, the movement of the tripping pin 170 into engagement with the arm 166 of the pawl-lifter 161 causes the latter, by engagement with the pawl-arm 122. to retract the pawl 118 and simultaneously, through the ull-rod 174 and pawldetainer 153, to rel ease the pawl 138 for engagement with the ratchet-wheel 137 which etlects the turning of the stitching mechanism for applying the radial stitches to the buttonhole eye, whereby the eccentrically arranged needlesthroat 63 is caused to wheel 137 with the arm 168 of the pawllifter 163 effects, by engagement of the latter with the pawl-arm 140, the retraction of the pawl 138 from the ratchet-wheel 137 and simultaneously brings the tripping pin 182 into engagement with the extremity 183 of the reciprocating rod 184 whereby, the pawl-detainer is disengaged from the arm 121 of the pawl 119 and the latter is permitted unden the action of its spring to assume operative relation with the driving ratchet-wheel 100 which operates to turn the feed-wheel 98 in the reverse direction for production of the retrograde feeding movement of the WOI'k-ClttlllP. In the initial portion of its retrograde clamp-feeding movement, the inclined adjacent side of the needle-aperture enlargement 72" serves as a side-Shift cam acting upon the needle- I throat 62 to produce a second side shift of the clamp so as to position the work for the stitching of the straight portion of the second side of the buttonhole, the second side of the cam-slot 89 of the fixed camlate 88 acting in conjunction with the re] er-stud 90 as a supplemental guide forco nfining the needle-throat 63 in, operative relation with. the edge of the needle-aperture 72", 72, the clamp-plate 71 being thereby given a path of mo ement represented by the .dotted line b in Fig. 7 relativelyto the axis of rotation of the needle-bar and looperframe bushings. Atthecom'pletion of the second side-shifting operation, the tripping pin 261 carried by the gear-wheel 101 first engages and shifts the arm 263 of the detaining pawl 141 to free the ratchet-wheel 137 for subsequent retrograde movement, and then encounters the arm 255 of the shift-lever whose other arm 253 retracts the latch-lever 245 in opposition to the spring "248 so as to release the lever 225 and thus enable the clutch-lever to return under the action of its spring 228 to initial unclutching position for interrupting the rotation of the main-shaft 9, the catch-lever 279 having been previously disengaged from the stud'148 as before explained. The rise of the clutch-lever arm 269' in the unclutching operation operates to shift the cutter-controlling lever 338, and thereby produces a single rotation of the worm-wheel 297 for actuation of the buttonhole cutting mecha nism, and the subsequent lifting of the lever 356 whose link connection 359 with the con trolling lever 309 of the turning mechanism causes the latter to establish operative relation between the worm 296 and gear 322, whereby the shaft 136 is given a retrograde p1arter-rctation to return the stitch-forming mechanism to initial relation with the work clamp. The semi-rotation of the looper-supporting frame thus producesd effects the corresponding turning movement of the concentrically disposed needle-throat 63 whose engagement with the walls of the needle aperture 72 adjacent its smaller end causes the shifting of the cross-slide plate 71 laterally into initial position, and the several parts of the machine are thus positioned for a succeeding buttonhole cutting and stitching operation.

It will be observed that the primary liunution of the ratchet-wheel 137 as related to the control of the work-clamp is to impart the side-shifting movements thereto at the completion of each longitudinal feeding movement, the performance of its secondary function of turning the stitching mechanism being dependent upon the type of huttonhole stitching for which the machine may be,designed, and it i.- therefore obvious that this part of the present im provenien't not limited'to the particular type of buttonhole stitching machines here- 1n shown and described. It will'be-evident that the adjustment of the -tripping pin 261:

upon its carrying gear- Wheel, 101 simultaneously determines the length of each advance and retrograde side-feed movement of the work-clamp,- for the reason that the stoppin'gposition of the gear 101 absolutely fixes the. initial position of the gear102 and the distance of its tripping stud 1570 from the pawl lifter arm 166, so that in all adjustments the machine must of necessity produce Iines of'stitching ofequal length and numberof stitches al ong both sides of 'thebuttonhole 81a.

The starting mechanism,- as represented more particularly in Fig. 10, is somewhat "more complicated in construction than would be required in the performance of its function hereinhdescribed, for the reason that, as represented, it is designed for ad justment to cooperate with buttonhole cutting mechanism'timed to operate before instead of after the stitching operation, and certain of the parts connected'therewith are not described in detail, as they form no part of the present invention.

From the foregoing description, it will be seenthat the characteristic features of the present improvement are the relation of the advance and retrograde feed-actuating devices to each other and to the stitching mechanism turning device and the means whereby their operative movements are derived from a common reciprocating memher; and it is therefore evident that other clutch mechanisms involving suitable clutchwheels and cooperating clutch-dogs than those herein shown and described, and other modifications of the mechanism of the improvement in its present embodiment, may be readily employed within the scope of the present invention.

Having thus set forth the nature of the invention, what we claim herein is 1. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, and a work-clamp, of feeding mechanism comprising a rotary feed'wheel and reversely rotating driving-wheels permanently connected to rotate therewith. an operative con .ncction between said feed-wheel and workclamp whereby relative feeding movements between the latter and the stitch-forming mechanism may be produced, independent actuating devices alternately engaging said driving-wheels to turn each in the same direction for imparting to said feed-wheel step-bv-step turning movements inopposite directions. and automatically acting means for establishing operative relation alternately between each of said actuating devices and the feed-whe L V 2. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the

combination with, stitch-forming mechanism, and a work-clamp, of feeding mechanism comprising a rotary feed-wheel, an op erative connection between said feed-wheel and work-clamp whereby relative feeding movements between the latter and the stitch-forming mechanism maybe produced, independent actuating devices adapted for imparting a; said fe ed'wheel step-byrs tep turmng movements in opposite directions,

means for establishing operative relation nism,and a work-clamp, of feeding mechanism comprising a rotary feed-wheel, an operative connection between said" feed-wheel and the work-clamp whereby relative feeding movements between the latter and the stitch-forming mechanism may be produced, independent and alternately effective and inelfective'actuating devices adapted for imparting to said feed-wheel step-bystepcturning movements in opposite directions, means whereby each-of said actuating devices is'rendcred effective in turning the feed-wheel, means for successively rendering said actuating devices ineffective, and means for maintaining each of said actuating devices ineflective while the other is effective in turning the feed-wheel and for maintaining both of said actuating devices ineffective during a plurality of stitchforming cycles intermediate their respective periods of effectiveness.

4' In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, and a work-clamp, offeeding mechanism comprising a rotary feed-wheel. an operative connection between said feed-wheel and work-clamp whereby relative feeding movements between the latter and the stitchforming mechanism may be produced, a pair of clutch-wheels connected with the feedwheel suitably for turning the same in op posite directions, clutch-dogs adapted for op erat-ive engagement with said clutch-wheels, actuating means for imparting reciprocating movements to said clutch-dogs, and means for establishing operative relation alternately between each of said clutclrdogs and its respective clutchwvheel.

5. In a buttonhole sewing machine. the combination with stitch-forming mechanism. and a work-clamp, of feeding mechanism comprising a rotary feed-wheel. an operative connection between said feedwheel and work-clamp whereby relative feet ling movements between the latter and the stitchforming mechanism may be produced. a pan;

(if ratchet-wheels connected with the feedvheelsuitably for turning the same in opposite directions, pawls adapted. for normal iperative' engagement with said ratchetwheels, a pav'vl-carrier, means for reciprocating said carrier, pawl-lifters adapted for engagement with said pawls,,and means for alternately actuating said "pawl-lifters to 1 .cause the alternate disengagement of said pa-wls with their respective ratchet-wheels.

6. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the

combination with stitch-forming mechanism, and work-clamp, of feeding mechanism coniprisinga rotary feed-wheel, an operative connection between said feed wheel and work-clamp whereby relative feeding movements between the latter and the st tch-j.

forming mechanism may be produced, a pair of ratchet-wheels connected with the feedwheel suit-ably for turning the same in opposite directions,pawls adapted for normal operative engagement with said ratchetwheels, a pawl-carrier, means for rec1pro eating said carrier, pawl-lifters adapted for engagement with said pawls, means for alcomprising a rotary feed-wheel, an operative connection between said feed-wheel and work-clamp whereby relative feeding movements between the latter and the stitchforming mechanism may be produced, a pair of ratchet-wheels connected with the feed wheel suitably for turning the same inopposite directions. nawls adapted, for normal operative engagement with said ratchet- Wheels. a pawl-carrier, means for reciprocating said carrier. pawl-lifters adapted for engagemen with said pawls. means for alternately actuating said pawl-lifters to cause the alternate disengagement of said pawls with their respective ratchet-wheels. pawldeta-iners. mounted upon said carrier and adapted to maintain the pawls disengaged from their respective ratchet-wheels, and means acting upon said pawl-detainers for releasing said pawls.

8. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism. a work-clamp, and turning mechanism for producing relative turning n'iovementsjbetween the stitch-forming mechanism and the work-clamp, of feeding mechanism compris ing a rotary fced-wheel. an operative con nection between said feed-wheel and work- "between the latter and the stitch-forming operative engagement with said ratchetmechanism may be produced, a pair of ratchetwheels -connected with the feed- -wheel suitably for turningthe same in op-.

posite directions, pawl's ada'pted for normal wheels, :1 pawl-carrier, means for recipro eating said carrier, pawl-llfters mounted upon said carrier and adapted for engage- .ment with said pawls, pawl-detainers adapt-.

ed to maintain the. pawls disengaged from their respective ratchet-wheel's, means con' nected with the litter of the initially acting pawl for setting said turning mechanism in action, and means connected with the (le tainer of a" subsequently acting jpawl and 0 controlled. by the turning mechanism for interrupting the action of the latter and bringing the second-named pawl iiito operative relation with its respective ratchet-. wheel. 7

. V .I 9, In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination .with stitch-forming mechanism, a work-clamp, and turning 1necl1a msm for producing relative turning movements between the stitchforming 'mech- 9o anism and the work-clamp, of feeding mechanism comprisinga rotary feed-wheel, an operative connection between said feed-- wheel and work-clamp whereby relative feeding movements between the latter and the stitch-formingmechanism may be pro-;

:duced, independentvactuating devices com-.

prising a plurality of inter-engaging parts and adapted for turning said feed-wheel in opposite "directions, independently acting disengaging devices for interrupting operative relation between the interengaging parts of said actuating devices, means for establishing operative relation between the interengaging parts of one of said actuating 1 5 devices, means connected with and controlling the action ot the same one of said disengaglng devices and adapted to simultane- Pously render the latter inactive and set the turning mechanism in action, means con- 1 trolled by said turning mechanism for throwing the same out of action and simultaneously initiating the operation of a second of said actuating devices, and meansfor throwing the last -namcd actuating device out of action.

10. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, and a work'clamp, of turning mechanism including a clutchwvheel for producing relative turning movements between the stitch-forming mechanism and the work-clamp, feeding mechanism comprising two clutch-wheels and connections between the same and the work-clamp for producing relative feeding movements in opposite directions between the latter and the stitchforming mechanism, clutch-d0gs adapted for operative engagement with their respective clutchwheels, controlling means for establishing and interrupting such.op,era-- tive relation, and tripping members carried by the initially actuated feeding'clutclr wheel and the turning mechanism clutchwheel for simultaneously arrestingthe operation of said feeding clutch-wheel and initiating the operation of the turning mechanism and for simultaneously interrupting the operation of the turning mechanism and initiating theoperation of a second feeding clutch-wheel.

combination with stitch-forming mecha nism, and a work clamp, of turning mecha nism including a clntch-wheei for producing relative turning movements between the stitch-forming mechanism and the work clamp, feeding mechanism comprising twoa ciutchw'heels and connections between the same and the work-clamp for producing relative feeding movements in opposite directions between the iatter and the 1 it: forming mechanism, clutcindogs adapt for operative engagement with their respstive clutch-wheels, a common reciprocatory are connected and from which they derive their operative movements. controlling means for establishing and interrupting such operative relation, and tripping menn bers carried by theinitially actuated feeding clutch-wheel and the turning mechanism clutch-wheel for simultaneously arresting the operation of said feeding clutch-wheel and initiating the operation of the turning mechanism and for. simultaneously interrupting the operation of the turning mechanism and initiating the operation of-a second feeding clutch-wheel.

12. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism and a work-clamp, of feeding mechanism comprising a feed-wheel, an operative conmotion between saidfeed-Wheel and work clamp for imparting relative feeding movements between thelatter and the stitchforming mechanism, actuating devices adapted for turning said feed-wheel in opposite directions, a rotary wheel, means connected therewith for producing relative turning movements between the stitchforming mechanism and the work-clamp,

actuating means for turning said rotary wheel, and means for v establishing alterately operative relation'between each of rid actuating devicesand the feed-wheel and intermediate thereto establishing op erative relation of said rotary wheel with its actuating means while the first-named actuating devices are inoperative relative to the feed-Wheel.

13. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mefchanism and a work-clamp, of mec'hanism forv producing relative turnmgmoveinents tween the stitch-forming mechanism and stitch-forming mechanism and the workclamp, means controlled by said longitudinal feeding movements for producing relativeside-shifting movements between the stitclrforming mechanism and the work- 5 clamp, and means controlled by said turna Zing mechanism for producing a relative 11, In a buttonhole sewing machine, the

side'sl ifting movement in the opposite direction between the stitchdorniing mechanism and the work.

; tndinal feed of the work-clamp, and meansincluding a needle-throat operatively con,-

neeted with the work-clamp and eccentrieaiiy disposed relatively to the axis of rota tionand movable with said turning mechaactuating member to which said clutch-dogs a longitudinal feedin motion tosaid workclamp, and means inc uding a guide-member carried by and bodily movable with said turning mechanism and operatively connected with the- Work-clamp throughout the cycle of operation of the machine and adapted for imparting an initial side-shifting movement at the completion of the initial feeding movement and aereturn side-shifting movement at the completion of the second feeding movement.

16. In a butt-onhole sewing machine, the combination with stitchforming mechanism and a work-clamp, of feeding mechanism comprising means for imparting longitudinal feeding movements to the work-clamp, actuating devices for said feeding means adapted to be disconnected therefromat the completion of each longitudinal feeding movement, and side-shifting means for the "work-clamp including a stud and a cam member formed with a closed cam-slot having a straight portion with an enlargement at one end, said stud and cam member being carried by thework-clamp, a fixed cam member adapted for engagement with said stud, a stud adapted for engagement with the cam member of said work-clamp and i for impart-i supported for movement transversely of the direction of feed, and means for shifting said movably mounted stud intermediate the -longitudinal feeding movements of the work- .clampi 17, In a but-tonhole sewing machine, the combination; with stitch-forming mechanism and a workclamp, of feeding mechanism relative longitudinal feeding and side-shi ting movements between the stitch-forming mechanism-and the workclamp and comprisra plurality of clutch- Wheels, connections et-ween two vof saidclutch-wheels and the work-clamp whereby said feeding movements in opposite direc- -tions are producedand aconnection-between said work-clamp and. a third clutch wheel whereby .thesaid side-shift movements are.

produoed;.' actuating means acting inde-. pendently upon said clutch-wheels for im-i parting thereto operative movements, and.

additional actuating means connected with the third clutch-wheel whereby the latter is operated to produce a retrograde side-shift movement between, the stitch-forming mechanism and. the work-clamp.

18. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism and a work -clamp, of"feeding mechanism comprising a rotary feed-wheel, an operative connection ,between said teed-wheel and work-clamp for producing relative feeding movements between the stitch-forming mechanism and the work-clamp; a plurality of ratchet-wheels connected with said "fe dwheel, pawls adapted for normal operat ve engagement with said ratchet-wheels, actuating means for imparting to said pawls operative movements of uniform extent,

mechanism and the. work-clamp, a clutchdog normally in operative relation with said clutch-wheeha reciprocating actuator 'operatively connected with said clutch-dog whereby operative movements are imparted to the same by advance movements of the actuator, a clutch-dog disengaging member and a tripping member therefor, one of which members is connected with said clutch-wheel'and the other is connected with and adapted to be brought into operative engagement with the other by the retrograde movement of said actuatm.

20. In a bnttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming 11180115111151]? and a work-clamp, of feeding mechanism comprising a clutchnvheel, operative con- Y nect-ions between said clutch-wheel and the work-clamp for producing relative feedingmovements between the stitch-forming mechanism and the work-clamp, a clutchdog normally in operative relation with said clutch-wheel, a reciprocating actuator operatively connected with said whereby operative movements are imparted to the, same by advance movements of the actuator, clutch-dog disengaging means con;

clutch-dog nected with and partaking of the movements of said actuator, and tripping means brought;

into the path of movement of said disengag- I ing'means by a connection with said. clutchw-heel-whereby the disengaging means are;

actuated bythe retrograde movement of said i actuator.

21. In a buttonliole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism and awork-clamp, ofi feeding mechanism. comprising a plurality of clutch wheelsand operative connections between said clutch -wheels and work-clamp whereby relative feeding movements in opposite directions be tween the latter and the stitch forming mechanism may be produced, clutch-dogs adapted for operative eng ement with said clutch-wheels, a reciiroca ng actuator for said clutch-dogs, an

succeeding an advance operative'movement thereof to impart operative movements to said clutch-dogs, whereby the latter are thrown out of operative relation with their respective clutch-wheels.

22. In. a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism and a work-clamp, of feeding mechanism comprising a plurality of clutch-wheels and operativeconnections between said clutchwheels and work-clamp whereby relative feeding movements in opposite directions between the latter and he stitch-forming mechanism may be produced, clutch-dogs adapted for operative engagement with said clutch-wheels, a reciprocating actuator for said clutch dogs, clutch dog disengaging means connected to and movable with said actuator for interrupting operative relation of said do s with their respective clutchwheels, and means carried by said clutchwheels for tripping said disengaging means into action.

-23. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the

means, controlled by the. retrograde movement of said actuator combination with stitch-forming mechanism,

a work-clamp and a stop-motion device, of feeding mechanism comprising a rotary feed-wheel, an operative connection between said feed-wheel and the work-claujip wherefeeding'movements between the latter and the stitch-forming-mechanism are produced, means for imparting to, said feed wheel step-by-step turning movements in opposlte directions, andcontrolling means for tripping said stop-motion into action to stop the machine and comprising a tripping stud deriving to r andfro movements from the feed-wheel and acting in conjunction witha tappet arm normally lying in its path of movementwhereby the feed-wheel is caused to move equal distances from-and backward into, initial starting and stopping position.

' 24. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the

combination withstitch-forming mechanism,

and a work clamp, of feedingfmechanism comprising a rotary feed-wheel, an operative connection between said feed-Wheel and work-clamp wherebyrelative feeding movements between the latter and the stitchforming mechanism may be produced, reversely rotating driving clutch-wheels permanently (IO1'1I15Qt3l jVV 1th.Sald feed-wheel, a reciprocating carrier having a path of travel atthe same side of the. axes of movement of both said clutch-wheels, clutch-dogs sustained by said carrier and each adapted to operatively engage its respective clutchwheel, and automatically acting means for establishing operative relation alternately between each of saiddogs and its respective clutch-wheel.

In a buttonhole sewing machine, the

' able carrier therefor provided with a longitudinal'guideway, feeding mechanisnr for producing a longitudinal travel oi the work- -clamp carrier,and-a stud mounted upon said support eccentrically to its; axis of rotation and entering said :guideway of-the workclamp carrierand serving as ashifting guide to determinethelateral position of the work clamp.

In testimony whereof we, have signed our names to this specification, in the presenceof two subscribing witnesses.

JAMES G. GREENE. LOUIS F."A. BUGHNER. \Vitnesses 1, n A

HENRY J. MILLER,

IL A.