US1548815A - Buttonhole-sewing machine - Google Patents

Description

Aug. 11, 1925.

4 Sheets-Sheet l ENVENTOR E. B. ALLEN BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed Feb 18,

- WITNESSES:

Aug. 11, 1925. I 1,548,815

E. B. ALLEN BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Fil Feb. 18, 1922 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 WITNESSES: lNVEI/gOR Aug. 11, 1925.

E. B. ALLEN BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE File 18. 1922 4 Sheets-Sheet s INVENTOR aw Q ATTORNEY WITNESSES. v

8 E. a. ALLEN "548315 BUTTONHOIJE SEWING MACHINE Filed Fe 18, 1922 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 INVENTOR wimessss;

zTTor iE Y I Patented Aug. ll, 1.925.

barren srare 1,548,815 PA'llE-hl'l @FFECE.

EDW'AR-I) B. ALLEN, 01E NEWVTQW'N, CONNECTICUT, ASSIGNOR TO THE-SINGER IllEAIiFEJ'IEA-(L- TUBING COMPA NY, F ELIZABETH, NEW JERSEY, A GORPORATIONOF NEW JERSEY.

BU-TTOIIHOLE-SEWING MACHINE.

Application filed February 18, 1922. Serial No. 537,381.

To all whom 2'25 may concern.

Be it known that I, EDWARD B. ALLEN, a citizen of the United States, residing at Newtown, inv the county of Fair-field and State of Connecticut, have invented certain new and useful ln'iprovement-s in Buttonhole-Sewing Machines, of which the follow ing is a specification, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawings.

This invention relates to buttonhole sewing machines and has for an object the re organization of an automatic buttonhole sewing machine more particularly of the type disclosed in my Patent No. 15,324, reissued April 4, 1922, so that it will operate to cut the buttonhole prior to stitching it.

To this end the clamp-closing mechanism, which is tripped into operation by the starting device, is connected to initiate the operation of the buttonhole cutting mechanism. The buttonhole cutting mechanism embodies a cutter-shaft which operates through suitable cams and connections to cut and spread the buttonhole and trip into action the rapidfeed mechanism which shifts the Workclamp with the cut and spread buttonhole rapidly from cutting to sewing position, whereupon the stitch-forming mechanism is started and sews the buttonhole. At the completion the sewing operation the rapid-feed mechanism is again thrown into operation and carries the worlcclamp with the finished buttonhole rapidly to initial position, in which position the work-clamp is opened and unspread. A safety feature is preferably incorporated to prevent accidental starting of the but-tonhole cutting mecha nism while the work-clamp is displaced from cutting position.

The invention comprises the novel co1nblnations of parts and. constructive features hereinafter described and claimed.

in the accompanying drawings, Fig- 1' is a side elevation of an automatic buttonhole sewing machine embodying the invention;

the continuously rotating driving pulley for the buttonhole cutting mechanism having been removed from the cutter-shaft to better show various operative parts associated with such shaft. Fig. 2 is a horizontal section through the vertical frame member or stand ard of the machine; the machine bed and parts thereon being shown in plan. Fig. 3 V is a fragmentary rear end elevation of the machine. 4t is a section on the line 4.-4, Fig. 3, showing certain parts of the cutter starting mechanism in elevation. Fig. 5 is a transverse vertical section through the machine bed looking toward the front of the machine. Fig. 6 is a vertical section substantially on the line 66, Fig. 5, and Fig. 7 is a fragmentary left side elevation of the machine.

In the specific embodiment of the invention chosen for the purposes of the present disclosure and illustrated in the drawings, the stitch-frame or main-frame of the machine comprises the usual'hollow rectangular base 1 from which rises the hollow standard 2' of the overhanging bracket-arm 3 terminating in the head 4 which carries the usual mechanism for the reciprocating and laterally joggin needle 5'. The needle-operating mechanism is preferably constructed substantially in accordance with the disclosure of my said pat ent and includes the usual vertical shaft 6 which is connected at its lower end by gears 7 to'the main sewing shaft 8. The vertical shaft 6' is connected by the gears 9 to the needle-bar operating shaft 10 which extends longitudinally of and within the bracket-arm 8 and drives the needle in the well known manner disclosed in said patent.

Theneedle cooperates with the usual looptaker mechanism, not shown, to form the overseaming stitches; It is preferred to employ a loop-taker mechanism of the type disclosed in the patent to Allenet a l, No. 1,372,473", of March 22, 1921. This mechanism is driven by the shaft 8 and operates wholly below the level of the work} bein adapted to form theso-called I. B. H. stit'cli: as illustrated in said Allen et al. patent.

1 1e worlcframe' or worlcholder is preferably constructed substantially as disclosed in my said reissued patent and in my Patent No; 1,136,888. It comprises the usual lower clamping plates 11 and upper pivot-ally mounted clamping levers 12 carrying the clamping. feet 13; the clamping levers 12 being adapted to be depressed into clamping engagement with the work by movement of the connected" rock-shaft sections 14 one of which carries the usual linger-piece l5 and arm 16 which latter extends under the roll 1'7, Fig; 2, at the front. end of the clampclosing lever 18,.Fig. 1 which is pivoted to the standard 2 at 19.

The lower or work-supporting plates '11 by means said reissued patent may of the work-clamp are mounted as usual upon the cross slide-plate 11*, Fig. 2, to partake of a spreading movement which may be imparted by toggle connections of substantially the form described in my said reissued patent. Such connections comprise the clamp-spreading slide-plates 20, which carry the pins 21 against which are pressed the headed pins 22 carried by the brackets 23 secured to the fulcrum-blocks 2% for the clamp'levers 12. A lever 25 is fulcrumed at 26 lo the cross slide-plate 11 and is pivoted at 27 to a lever 28 pivoted in turn at 29 to the slide-plate 20. The lever 25 is pivoted at its other end to one end of a link 80 which at its other end is pivotally connected at 31 to the slide-plate 20. The toggle connection may be straightened to spread the clamp by a forward push upon the free end 32 of a lever pivoted at 33 on the plate 20 and having its other end forked to embrace the fulcrum-pin 8st which connects the lever 25 and link 80. A forward push at the free end of the lever 28, hereinafter described, unspreads the clamp.

The work-clamp is mounted as usual for longitudinal and lateral motion over the bed of the machine to carry the buttonhole rapidly from cutting to sewing position and return, and to move the work in the desired path during the sewing of the buttonhole. The motions of the work-holder are preferably derived from rapid and stitching-feed mechanisms such as disclosed in my said reissued patent. Such mechanisms include the feed-wheel 35 to which the trans verse or rapid-feed shaft 36 is permanently connected by the gears 37; the shaft 36 detachably carrying one of a set of interchangeable cams 38 for controlling the period of operation of the stitch-forming mechanism and having a lateral feed-cam groove which in conjunction with selectively controlled mechanism set forth in my be used to control the side shift movements of the work-holder, in lieu of the side shift cam-groove in the main feed-wheel, as when sewing a buttonhole having a smaller eye or other variations in shape from that produced by the action of the side-shift cam in the main feedwheel. I

The permanently connected feed-wheels 35 and 38, when tripped into operation, are first driven at a comparatively high speed by an automatically controlled clutch connection with a continuously running powershaft 39 which is geared at lO to the continuously running pulley 4-1 of the driving device for the stitch-forming mechanism. The rapid-feed. clutch embodies the usual driving and driven clutch-elements 42, 43, Fig. 5, on the shaft 36; driving relation being established by movement to the right,

Fig. 5, of the cndwise slidable rod 4st carry ing the lateral pin 4:5 and clutch-operating fork 46 which slides the clutch-controlling cone d3 on, the shaft 36. It will be understood, particularly from the disclosure of my said reissued patent, that the withdrawal of the cone 13 from the driven clutch-member 4:3 permits the clutching of such member to the driving element %2 to be accomplished. Projection of the cone 43 toward the driven clutch-element 43 effects the declutchingof the parts 4-2 and 4-3.

Mounted in the base 1 on the bracket l? is the conlinumisly rocking bellcrank-V ever 8, l9, the forked arm 49 of which embraces a crank 50 on the power-shaft 39. Pivotcd side-by-side at 51 on the arm d8 of the bellcrank-lever are the reciprocating bars The rod 52 has connected to its free end a airing 5!: which pulls the bar 52 downwardly against the shoulder 55, Fig. 6, on the latch 56 pivoted at 57 to the bed 1. The spring 56 connected at its opposite ends respectively to the latch 56 and to the frame 1 yicldingly holds the latch in supporting engagement with the bar 52. Connected to the free end of the companion bar 53 is a spring 58, Fig. 7, which pulls it upwardly against the seat 59, Fig. 6, on the latch 60 also pivoted at 57 on the bed 1. 52, rciprocate idly when supported by their respective latches 56, 60.

When the latch (30 is withdrawn from the bar 58, the latter is pulled upwardly by its spring); 58 and the abrupt shoulder 68, Fig. 5, engages the pin 15 on the clutchcontrollingslide rod let and pushes the latter to the right to withdraw the cone as from the rapid-feed clutch and thereby effect the cou pling of the rapid-feed shaft 36 to the power-shaft 39. During the return movement of the bar 53, the inclined shoulder 69 encounters the pin and causes the bar 53 to be deflected downwardly sufficiently to be engaged by the latch 60 and held in idle position. Similar y, when the latch 56 is with drawn from the bar 52, the latter is pulled downwardly by the spring 54L and the abrupt shoulder 70 engages the pin 45 and pushes the rod ett to the left to declutch the rapidfeed shaft 56 from the power-shaft 39; the return in vement of the bar 52 carrying the inclined shoulder 71. against the pin 45 which lifts the bar 52 suiiiciently to be engaged and supported in idle position by the latch 56.

During: the sewing, the connected feed wheels 35, 38, are driven at a slow speed by the usual stitching feed including the gear 35' on the feed-wheel 35 and a train of gears, not shown, connected with the sewing shaft 8.

The period of operation of the stitchforming mechanism is controlled by the usual stop-motion device which is constructed substantially in accordance with the The bars llll') lil) bil

- on the cutter-shaft 09:

tion 78, 3, of thestop-cam until the stop-notch 7 6 passes under the tooth 7 a, whereupon the latter drops into such notch and arrests the motion of the shaft 8. The stop-motion lever 7 2 is controlled by means of an arm 79 which is fixed to the rocle shaft 7 3' and is connected by the link 88, 89,

to the upstanding lever 81piv0ted at 82 to the bed 1 and carrying acam-follower 83 which rides on the cam-element S-t on the interchangeable wheel 38. \Vhen the "follower 82) is encountered by the cam rise 85, Fig. 7. the stop-motion lever 72 is tilted to start the stitch-forming mechanisn'i. When the declivi'ty 86 passes the :tollower 83 the stop-motion lever 72 is released and is restored to stopping position by the spring 87. The link 88,89, is in the form ot a toggle which may be broken by swinging the handle for "ardl-y to witl'idraw the follower 83 from operative relation with the cam-wheel 38. It is often desirable to break this toggle to render the starting-- connection tor the stop-motion device inoperative when the machine is being repaired-or adjusted.

The lateral arm on; the element '89 engages the element 88" and permits the center to drop even with or slightly below a line j oin-i n-g the centers of theconnections at the opposite eudso t the toggle. The springpressed round-nosed pin 88% Fig. 2, mounted in the link- 88 enters a shallow recess in the side of the element 89 and y ield inpgly holds the toggle elements in straightened relation.

T hebuttonhole cutting mechanism is constructed substantia ll in accordance with the disclosure of my said reissued patent and includes the usual cutter-levers93, 94, which are pi-vota'll-y mounted at on the travelling fulcrum-block 96-; the latter receiving its travelling movcmei-its 'lll'Ol'l b the usual link connection 97 with the cutter advancing and: is'etracting cam 98, Fig. 2, The cutter-shalt also carries the usual: cutter-closing cams 100,101. Thec-utter-shait t has fixed the1reto the driven member or disk- 102 of the usual one-revolution cl'utch device; said disk being radially slotted at 103 to receive the spring-pressed slide-block 10% carrying the clutch-tooth. 1104a. The slideblock 10 1." is held in retracted position by the usual latch-plate 105 at the. forward end of the clutch-controlling.- bellcranklever 106'tulcrun'ied at 107 on the bed 1. Clocl wise movement of the bellcrank-lever 106., Fig. 2, about its fulcrum 107, withdraws the latch-p ate 105 and releases the clutch-tooth 10 1 on the s1ideblock 10 1 whereupon the At the completion of a single rotation of the cutter-shaft 99 a lug 10 1- on the inner side of the slideblock 10 i engages the camcdge 110, Fig. 1, on the latch-plate 105 and is pushed inwardly to withdraw the tooth 10ilroin engagement with the internally toothed driving pulley 109, whereupon the motion of the disk 102 is arrested by the engagement oi the lug 10% with a shoulder 111 on the latch-plate 105. Prior to the co-m pletion of the single revolution of theshatt 99, the latch-plate 105 is restored to stopping position by means of: a cam 112, Fig. 2, termed in the hub of the disk 102 and acting on the follower-pin 112 depending from the lever 106.

slfhcn the machine is started, theclampclosing lever 18 is given a single complete tonnd-i ro movement by means of: a camgroove 109. in the inner face of the continuously rotating pulley 109; the controlling connections for initiating the rocking movement of the lever 18 and holding it out of action. being constructed substantially in ac cordance with the disclosure of my said reissued patent. The rearward-1y disposed arm 11?) of the clamp-closing lever 18 .carrice the endwise -n1ova-ble follower-pin 114: which is held in ejected position 0111; ot cn gagement with the camegroove 109 in the pulley 109 by the latch 11'5 pivoted at 116 to the standard 2.

This latch is swung the right, Fig. 1, to release the pin 11 1 by the action of the operator in forcing down the starting rod 117 connected to the bellcrauk-lever 118, 119, also tulcrumcd at 116. The arm 119 carries a pivoted catch 120 which engages the pin 121 on the latch 115 and withdraws the latter from the notch in the pin 114, as explainedv in my said reissued patent. As the arm 18 is depressed to engage the arm 16 and close the work-clamp, the tooth 122 on the link 123 which is pivotally connected at 124% to the arm 113 oi" the clamp-closing lever, is drawn forwardly and drops down under' the intlucnce ot the spring 123 in "front of the shoulder on the lateral arm 126 of the cutter clutchcontrolling bellcrank-lever 106. The tooth 1-22 is formed on a plate 127 which is adjustable lengthwise of its carrier 123 and is secured thereto by the screw 128.

'During the return or clockwise movement of the clamp-closing lever 18, Fig. 1, the tooth- 122 pushes. the arm 126 rearward-1y and thereby shifts the latch-plate inwardly and releases the clutch-tooth 104 which operates to couple the cutter-shaft 99 to the pulley 109 for one complete revolution. During the revolution of the cutter-shaft the buttonhole cutter levers are advanced and closed to cut the buttonhole. Fixed to the cutter-shaft 99 is a cam 129 in engagement with which is a follower roll 130 on the T-shaped lever 131 which is fulcrumed at 132 on the bed 1. The spring 133 holds the roll 130 in engagement with the cam 129. The free end 134 of the lever 131 is disposed closely in rear of the free end 32 of the clampspreading lever. During the last half of the revolution of the cuttershaft 99 and after the buttonhole has been cut, the cam 129 rocks the lever 131 and causes it to push forwardly on the clampspreading lever 32, thereby spreading the clamp and opening up the buttonholeslit for the passage of the needle. Just before the motion of the cutter-shaft is arrested, a cam 135, Fig. 1, on the driven disk 102 depresses the lever-arm 136 which is fixed to a transverse rock-shaft 137 to which is also fixed a lever-arm 138 having at its lower end a pin 139, Fig. 6, which enters the slot 140 in the latch 60. By means of this connection, the cam 135 is caused to withdraw the latch 60 from the reciprocating bar 53 and thus throw the rapid-feed mechanism into operation." The spring 141, Fig.

' 1, connected to the lever 136 and to the bed 1 holds the roll 142 on the arm 136 in engagement with the peripheral cam-edge of the disk 102 and restores the latch 60 to latching position.

The cuttershaft 99 also has fixed thereon a cam 143 in engagement with which is the roll 144 on the lever 145 pivoted at 146 to the standard 2. The lever 145 has at its rearward end a lateral extension 145 under lying the link 123. During the first part of the revolution of the cutter-shaft 99 the lever 145 is lifted and operates to lift the link 123 high enough to carry the tooth 122 above the shoulder 125 and permit the cam 112 to restore the bellcrank-lever 106, 126, to initial position in time to arrest the rotation of the disk 102 at the completion of a. single rotation. When the link 123 is lifted by the lever 145, the latch-lever 147, Fig. 3, is swung over to the right about its pivot 148 by its spring 149 to position its shoulder 150 below and in supporting engagement with the rear end of the link 123. This movement of the latch 147 also positions its extension 151 directly in rear of the pin 152, Fig. 2, on the bellcrank-lever arm 126 and blocks the possible accidental movement of the bellcrank-lever 106, 126, to starting position during the sewing operation. The latch 147 holds the link 123 with its tooth 122 in elevated or ineffective position so that in case the latch-pin 114 is accidentally released during the sewing the clampclosing lever 18 will merely perform an idle toand-fro movement without jamming the parts.

The rapid-feed mechanism operates in the usual manner, as disclosed in my said reissued patent, to carry the work-clamp to sewing position whereupon the cam-rise 85 on the interchangeable cam-element 38 initiates the shifting of the stop-motion lever 7 2 to running position, thereby starting the stitch-forming mechanism. At the same time, a tripping point 153, Fig. 6, on the inner face of the cam 38 engages and lifts the free end of the lever 154 which, in turn, withdraws the latch 56 from beneath the re ciprocating bar 52, thereby throwing the latter into action to declutch the rapid-feed shaft from the power-shaft 39.

At the completion of the sewing, the declivity 86 of the cam 84., Fig. 7, passes the follower 83 and allows the stop-motion lever 72 to spring to stopping position and arrest the stitch-forming mechanism. The stopmotion teeth 75 has fixed thereto a lateral pin 155, Fig. 1, which enters a slot 155 in one end of a lever 156 which is pivoted at 157 on the plate 158 fixed to the bracket member 74. Pivoted at 159 to the other end of the lever 156 is the lower end of a lever 159 having a forwardly projecting tooth 160 and a rearwardly and upwardly curved extension 161 which is yieldingly maintained in engagement with the fixed pin 162 by the spring 163.

The elevation of the stopping tooth 7 5 by the cam-rise 78, when the stop-motion lever 72 springs to stopping position, acts through the rock-lever 156 to lower the lever 159 whereupon the tooth 160 of the latter snaps under the shoulder 164 at the rear end of the arm 165 fixed to the rapid-feed starting rock-shaft 137. lVhen the stopping tooth 75 drops into the stop-notch 76 of the cam 77, the tooth 160 lifts the arm 165 and thereby swings the arm 138 and latch 60 to the right, Figs. 1 and 6, to clutch the rapid-feed shaft to the power-shaft 39 for the return of the work-holder from sewing position to starting position.

The work-holder has secured to its rear ward corner adjacent the interchangeable wheel 38, Figs. 2 and 7, the rearwardly extending bar 166 the extremity of which is bent to form a cam-incline 167. Pivotally mounted on the standard 2 at 168 is the bellcrank- lever 169, 170, the arm 170 of which is connected to the usual clamp-opening push-rod 171 from which depends the clamp-unspreading arm 172. As described in my said reissued patent, the rod 171 when pushed forwardly engages the arm 173 fixed to the clamp-closing rock-shaft section 14 and pushes such arm forwardly to open thework-clamp. The lower end of the arm 172 is also caused to engage and operate the clamp-unspreading lever 28.;

The arm 169 of the bellcrank-lever has pivoted thereon a lever 17%! having a tail piece 175 which is held yieldingly against the stop-pin 176 by the spring 177. Rearward-motion of the work-clamp from sewing to cutting position carries the cam incline 167 under the lower end of the lever 1741- and lifts the latter, thereby swinging the bellcrank- lever 169, 170, and pushing the rod 171 and arm 172 forwardly to effect a quick opening and unspreading of the work-clamp as near as possible to the end of thecycle of operations of the machine. The simultaneous movement of the work-clamp and rod 171' in opposite directions at the time of the collisions between the'members 171 and 17 3 and between the members 172 and 28, favors the attainment-of a quick acting clamp-opening and mechanism. When the cam-incline 167 passes rearwardly ofthe lever 1741 the spring 178, connected at its opposite ends to the arm 170 and standard 2, restores the parts 169 to 172, inclusive, to initial position. The finished work is now free to be removed from the machine.

Mounted on the side of the machine frame in bearings 179, 180, is a rock-shaft 181 to the rearward end of which is fixed the tappet-arm 182, Fig. 3, which is adapted to engage the arm 188 of the latch 1417. Fixed to the forwardend of the shaft 181 is adownwardly extending arm 1841 the lower end of which is bent forwardly at 185, Fig. 1, to underlie the cam-incline 186, Fig. 5, on theblock187 fixed to the starting rod 117. Then the starting rod is pulled downwardly to start the machine, the inclined face 186 of'the block 187 engages the extension 185 of the arm 184 and displaces thelatter to one side as the block 187 passes said extension,- whereupon the extension 18.5 is restored to a positionabove the block 187 by action of the spring 181 and operates to latch the starting rod 117 in depressed position.

7 During the final movement of the rapidfeed shaft 86, the trippingpoint 188, Fig, 5, on the vertical gear 37 swings the arm 189 outwardly about its fixed pivot 190. The arm 189 engages thetail 191 of the latch arm 184 and swings the latter outwardly to release the starting rod 117 which is drawn upwardly to initial'position by its spring 192. Thus, when the starting rod 117 is once pulled down to start the machine, it is latched in its depressed position until the machine has substantially completed its cycle of operations. .The swinging of the latch-arm 184 by the tripping point 188 and arni'189 also rocks the shaft 181 and thereby causes the tappet 182 to depress the arm 183 and unspreading swing the latch 147 to the left, Fig.8, thus releasing the link 123 and permitting it to drop to the position shown inFigs 8 and 4, in readiness to actuate the bellcrank' 106, 126, of the cutter-starting mechanism beginning of a new cycle of operations. As soon as the tripping point 188 has acted upon the arm 189, the rapid feed is thrown out by the action of the tripping point 153, Fig. 6, upon the lever 1541, constituting an element of the clutch-controlling mechanism previously referred to.

Having thus set forth the nature of the invention, what I claim herein is 1. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, a main frame, stitch-form ing mechanism, a work-clamp, means for relatively moving the stitch-forming mechanism and work-clamp to sew about a buttonhole, clamp-closing mechanism including a clamp-closing element and power means for imparting to the latter clamp-closing and return impulses-in opposite directions, but

tonhole cutting mechanism, and means con nected to be operated'by element on its the buttonhole sewing.

said clamp-closing return impulse for starting cutting mechanism prior to 2. A buttonhole sewing machine having,

in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a work-clamp, a clamp-closing lever, buttonhole cutting mechanism including a starting lever, and a bar connected to the'cl'ain p closing lever for directly engaging and actuating the cutting mechanism starting lever. v

3. A buttonhole sewing maehine'hav'ing, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a work-clamp, means for relatively moving them to sew about'a buttonhole, clainp closing mechanism including a clamp-closing lever, power means and'connection's' for im-' partiiig clampclosingjand return impulses to such lever, button'hole cutting mechanism including a cutter-shaft, power ineans and connections including a cutter-tripping lever for establishing driving relation between the power means and the cuttershaft, anda bar pivotally connected to said clamp-closing lever for directly engaging and operating said cutter tripping'le've r on the return impulse of the clamp-closing lever.

4. A buttonhole sewing mac'hine'having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a work-clamp, means for relatively moving the stitch-forming mechanism and w0rk=cla1np to sew about a button'hole, clamp-closing mechanism, buttonhole cutting mechanism, automatically operated means connected to the clamp-closing mechanism for starting 5 the buttonhole cutting mechanism prior to sewing, means operated'by the butto'nhole cutting mechanism for rendering the starting. connection between the clamp-closing and buttonho'le cutting mechanisms ineifec at the I tive during the sewing operation, and means for rendering said starting connection ef fective at the close of the buttonhole making cycle.

5. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, buttonhole cutting mechanism, a worlc clamp, a rotary power-driven rapid-feed mechanism independent of the buttonhole cutting mechanism for relatively moving the work-clamp and stitch-forming mechanism with a continuous motion into and out of sewing relation, a stitching-feed tor relativelymoving the stitch-forming mechanism and work-clamp during the sewing, means for starting the buttonhole cutting mechanism prior to sewing, and means controlled by the buttonhole cutting mechanism for starting the rapid-feed mechanism to relatively move the stitchowning mechanism and work-clamp into sewing relation.

6. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, buttonhole cutting mechanism including a cutter-shaft, a worlcclamp, a rotary power driven rapid-feed mechanism independent of the buttonhole cutting mechanism for relatively moving the work-clamp and stitchforming mechanism with a continuous motion into and out of sewing relation, a stitching feed for relatively moving the stitchforming mechanism and work-clamp during the sewing, means for starting the buttonhole cutting mechanism prior to sewing, and a cam on the cutter-shaft and connections for starting the rapid-feed mechanism after the buttonhole has been cut.

7 A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a work-clamp, means for moving the workclamp, clamp-closing means, and clampopening means mounted independently of the work-clamp and arranged to be operated by and in a direction opposite to the move ment of the worlcclamp for opening the work-clamp.

8. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a work-clamp, means for moving the workclamp, clamp-spreading means, and clamp unspreading means arranged to be operated by and in a direction opposite to the movement of the work-clamp for unspreading the work-clamp.

9. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a work-clamp, means for moving the workclamp, clamp-closing and spreading means, and clamp-opening and unspreading means arranged to be operated by and in a direction opposite to the movement of the work-clamp for opening and unspreading the Work-clamp.

10. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism,

a work-clamp, a buttonhole cutter, means for moving the work-clamp from buttonhole cutting to sewing position and from sewing to buttonhole cutting position, clamp'closing mechanism, and clamp-opening means mounted independently of the work-clamp and arranged to be operated by and in a direction opposite to the direction of the movement of the work-clamp from sewing to cutting position for opening the workclamp.

11. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a work-clamp, a. buttonhole cutter, means for moving the work-clamp from buttonhole cutting to sewing position and from sewing to buttonhole cutting position, clamp spreading mechanism, and clamp unspreading means arranged to be operated by and in a direction opposite to the direction of the movement of the work-holder from sewing to cutting position for unspreading the workclamp.

12. A buttonhole sewing machine havin in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a work-clamp, a buttonhole cutter, means for moving the work-clamp from buttonhole cutting to sewing position and from sewing to buttonhole cutting position, clamp-closing and spreading mechanism, and clamp-opening and unspreading means arranged to be operated by and in a direction opposite to the direction of the movement of the workholder from sewing to cutting position for opening and unspreading the work-clamp.

13. A buttonhole sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a work-clamp, means for imparting travellin'g movements to the work-clamp to shift the latter into and out of sewing position, clamp-closing mechanism, an actuating element mounted to travel with the work-elamp, and clamp-opening mechanism including an actuated element connected to be operated by said actuating element during the return movement of the work-clamp from sewing position, said elements being constructed to pass one another idly during the movement of the work-clamp to sewing position.

14. A buttonhole sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch-torming mechanism, a work-clamp, means for imparting travelling movements to the work-clamp to shift the latter into and out of sewing position, clamp-spreading mechanism, an actuating element mounted to travel with the work-clamp, and clamp-opening mechanism including an actuated element connected to be operated by said actuating element during the return movement of the work-clamp from sewing position, said elements being constructed to pass one another idly during the movement of the work-clamp to sewing position.

15. A buttonhole sewing machine i having, in combination, a frame, stitch-forn1- ing mechanism, a work-clamp, clamp-closing means, buttonhole cutting mechanism including a cutter-shaft, a clamp-spreading lever pivoted at a fixed point on the frame of the machine, and means on said cuttershaft for actuating said clamp-spreading lever after the buttonhole has been cut.

16. In a buttonhole sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism including a sewing shaft, a Work-clamp, a rapid-teed for relatively moving the stitelrforming mechanism and work-clamp into and out of sewing relation, a second shaft with means for driving it independently of the sewing shaft, a stop-motion device for the stitch-lorming mechanism, and a rapid-feed starting member connected to be operated by said second shaft prior to sewing and by the stop-motion device subsequent to sewing.

17. In a buttonhole sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism, a work-clamp, a rapid-feed for relatively moving the stitchtorming mechanism and work-clamp into and out of sewing relation, buttonhole cutting mechanism including a cutter-shaft, a stop-motion device for the stitch-torming mechanism, and a rapid-teed starting member connected to be operated first by said cutter-shaft and subsequently by said stopmotion device.

18. In a buttonhole sewingmachine,stitchforming mechanism, a buttonhole cuttershaft, a rapid-feed controlling rock-shatt parallel to said cutter-shaft, a stop-motion device for the stitch-forming mechanism, and a pair of arms on said rock-shaft adapted to be actuated, respectively, by connections with said cutter-shaft and stop-motion device.

19. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a work-clamp, means for relatively moving them to sew about a butt-onhole, buttonhole cutting mechanism including a cuttershaft with means for operating it prior to sewing, a rapiddeed shaft and connections for relatively moving the stitch-forming mechanism and work-clamp into and out of sewing relation, rotary power means, a rapid-feed rotary clutch. for establishing and interrupting driving relation between the powenmeans and the rapid-feed shaft, means on the cuttershatt and connections for throwing in the rapid-feed clutch prior to sewing to relatively move the stitch-torming mechanism and work-clamp into sewing relation, a stopmotion device for the stitchforming mechanism, and means connected to the stop-motion device for throwing in the rapid-feed clutch subsequent to sewing to relatively move the stitch-forming mechanism and work-clamp out of sewing relation.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification.

EDWARD B. ALLEN.

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