US2072991A

US2072991A - Buttonhole sewing machine

Info

Publication number: US2072991A
Application number: US708415A
Authority: US
Inventors: Joseph H Pikul
Original assignee: Reece Button Hole Machine Co
Current assignee: Reece Button Hole Machine Co
Priority date: 1934-01-26
Filing date: 1934-01-26
Publication date: 1937-03-09
Anticipated expiration: 1954-03-09

Description

March 9, 1937. J PIKUL BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed Jan. 26, 1934 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 dose h HPiKuI Mardl 9, 1937. J, plKUL 2,072,991

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed Jan. 2e,' 1934 5 Sheets-Shet s InvenTor.

Joseph H. PiKul WW&W

ATTys March 9, 1937. I J, H KUL 2,072,991

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed Jan. 26, 1934 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 Figlg. FiglZ. Fig.1?

'7 3 2 5 a l a I -|nvenTor. Uoseph HPiKul MM2M Anys.

, Patented Mar. 9, 1937 BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Joseph H. Pikul, Boston, Mass, assignor to The Reece Button Hole Machine Company, Boston. Mass, a corporation of Maine Application January 26, 1934, Serial No. 708,415

31 Claims.

This invention relates to buttonhole sewing machines and especially to that type of buttonhole sewing machine which is constructed to sew a so-called fly bar buttonhole, which is a buttonhole formed with a bar opposite the eye end and extending in the direction of the length of the buttonhole and usually in the line of the slit thereof.

In sewing a buttonhole of this type the stitching usually starts in the line of the buttonhole slit at a distance from the end thereof and continues in said line for a distance equal to the length of the bar, thereby forming a preliminary group of barring stitches, and when these stitches have been formed the stitch-forming mechanism and the work are given a relative lateral movement to shift the line of stitching to one side of the buttonhole slit. The stitching then continues along said side of the buttonhole slit to form side stitches on one side of the buttonhole, then around the eye end of the buttonhole, and along the opposite side of the slit to form the side stitches on the other side of the buttonhole, and when said side stitches have been :5 completed the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means are given another relative movement to bring the line of stitching back into the line of the buttonhole slit and a final group of barring stitches is then formed in the line of 3:) the buttonhole slit which overlie the stitches of said preliminary group.

The present invention relates to novel means for producing the relative lateral movement between the work-holding means and the stitchforming mechanism to produce, first, the preliminary group of barring stitches in the line of the buttonhole slit, and then the stitches along the two sides and around the eye end of the buttonhole, and subsequently the final group of barring stitches also in the line of the buttonhole slit and overlying the preliminary group of barring stitches.

In some respects the present invention is in the nature of an improvement on the construction shown in Patent No. 1,696,893, December 25, 1928.

The above-mentioned Patent No. 1,696,893 shows a buttonhole sewing machine in which the work-holding means is mounted on a work frame and the stitch-forming mechanism is carried by a stitch frame, which frames have a movement relative to each other in the direction of the length of the buttonhole, and it also shows a barrin cam carried by the work frame and operating to control the relative lateral movement between the work frame and the stitch frame necessary to produce the barring stitches and the side stitches.

An object of the invention is to provide improvements in that type of barring mechanism illustrated in said patent which render the barring mechanism simpler in construction.

A further object is to provide a sewing machine having a barring cam, a follower element which is under the control of the barring cam throughout the entire buttonhole sewing cycle together with means co-operating with the follower element operative to control the relative transverse movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means throughout the entire buttonhole sewing cycle except when sewing around the eye end of the buttonhole, at which time such relative lateral movement is under the control of an eye-forming cam.

Another object of the invention is to provide the stitch-forming mechanism and the work necessary to form the barring stitches assumes such control the instant that the control of such relative lateral movement is relinquished by the devices which exercise control of such relative lateral movement while sewing around the eye end of the buttonhole.

One advantage of such a construction is that it provides for sewing fly bar buttonholes of a minimum length.

Other objects of the invention are to improve fly bar buttonhole sewing machines in the various particulars hereinafter set forth.

In the drawings wherein I have illustrated a selected embodiment of my invention, Fig. 1 is a side view of a buttonhole sewing machine having my improvements applied thereto;

Fig. '2 is a top plan view;

Fig. 3 is an under side view of the bed frame;

Fig. 4 is a view illustrating the barring cam;

Fig. 5 is a fragmentary plan view showing a portion of the barring cam and the pins which co-operate therewith;

Fig. 6 is a section on the line 6-6, Fig. 5;

Fig. '7 is a section on the line 'I1, Fig. 4;

Fig. 8 is a section on the line 8-8, Fig.4;

Fig. 9 is a view of the main cam showing the eye-forming cam groove therein;

Fig. 10 is a fragmentary view illustrating the means for controlling the length of the buttonhole;

Fig. 11 illustrates a partially sewed buttonhole and shows the manner in which the fly bar is formed therein;

Fig. 12 shows a complete fly bar buttonhole;

Fig. 13 shows a fly bar buttonhole made without an eye.

Referring first to Fig. 12 which shows a fly bar buttonhole formed in a piece of work H, i indicates the buttonhole slit, 2 the eye of the buttonhole, 3 and 4 the side stitches along opposite sides of the buttonhole slit, 5 the stitches around the eye of the buttonhole and 8 the bar at the end of the buttonhole.

As stated above in sewing these fly bar buttonholes the stitching is first formed in the line of the buttonhole slit at the end thereof to form a group 6 of preliminary barring stitches (see Fig. 11) and when these stitches have been formed the line of stitching is shifted laterally as shown at I to bring it at the side of the buttonhole slit, this being accomplished by producing a relative lateral movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means. The stitching then continues along one side of the buttonhole and around the eye end thereof and along the other side of the buttonhole and when the stitches 4 have been completed the line of stitching is again carried into the line of the buttonhole slit to produce a group of final barring stitches overlying the stitches 6 thereby forming the so-called fly bar 8.

The sewing machine herein illustrated is provided with improved means for producing the relative lateral movement between the stitchforming mechanism and work-holding means necessary to produce the barring stitches and the side stitches of the button hole. The apparatus also provides improved means by which fiy bar buttonholes of different sizes and with different lengths of bars can be sewed.

The sewing machine herein shown is of that type in which the work-holdling means is carried on a stationary bed plate frame or work frame and the stitch-forming mechanism is carried on a so-called stitch frame which is movably mounted on the bed frame, the movement of the stitch frame carrying the parts from buttonhole-cutting position to stitching position and also providing the necessary feeding movement for stitching along the sides of the buttonhole, and further providing the necessary lateral movements to form the eye and also to produce the shifting from the barring stitches to the side stitches and vice versa.

The bed frame of the machine is indicated at 9 and the work-holding means comprises the usual work clamps l0 which are pivotally mounted on the bed frame 9 and by which the work H is clamped to the clamp plates l2.

The stitch frame which carries the stitchforming mechanism is indicated at l3 and this is provided with the usual overhanging arm M in which reciprocates the needle bar l5 carrying the needle 16 for the upper thread. This needle cooperates with under thread mechanism, which may be in the form of oscillatory loopers or in the form of an under needle, and which is mounted on a turret I? that is carried on the under portion 3 of the stitch frame [3. This under portion l8 of the stitch frame is also provided with the cam housing [9 in which is mounted the main cam 20 by which the operations of the machine are controlled, said cam being driven from the shaft 2| which is also journalled in the lower part of the stitch frame and which is pro vided with a worm gear 22 meshing with suitable gear teeth on the cam 20.

HI indicates the buttonhole cutter which is mounted on the cutter arm I22.

The backward and forward movement of the stitch frame necessary to carry the parts from buttonhole-cutting position to stitching position and to produce the necessary feed while stitching along the sides of the buttonhole is derived from the main cam 29 as usual in sewing machines of this type and for this purpose said cam 20 is formed in its upper face with a cam groove in which is received a pin 24 rigid with and depending from the bed frame 9.

The parts described above are such as are usually found in buttonhole sewing machines of this type and form no part of my present invention.

The stitch-forming mechanism is actuated by the shaft 25, the usual operative connections (not shown) being employed between the stitch-form ing mechanism and said shaft 25. This shaft 25 is driven from the driving pulley I23 (see Fig. 10) by any suitable driving mechanism such as illustrated in the above-mentioned Patent No. 1,696,893 and which includes a clutch dog I25. The shaft 25 is automatically clutched to the pulley E23 when the stitch frame has been shifted from buttonhole-cutting position to stitching position, the means for accomplishing this being the same as that illustrated in said above-mentioned patent. This means comprises a control lever 79 mounted for rocking movement on the stud shaft I2 and carrying a roll 69 which cooperates with a cam surface 58 on a control slide 61 adjustably mounted on the bed frame 9. clutch-controlling lever '59 and the shaft 25 are carried by the stitch frame and move therewith.

When the machine is set in operation the stitch frame is moved to the right Fig. 1 from buttonhole-cutting position to stitching position and as it reaches stitching position the roll 69 is carried up the cam face 68 thereby rocking the lever 19 and releasing the clutch dog l25. This clutches the pulley I23 to the shaft 25 and sets the stitchforming mechanism in operation. For a more complete disclosure of this construction and operation reference may be had to the above-mentioned Patent No. 1,696,893.

When the sewing machine comes to rest at the end of each buttonhole sewing cycle the stitch frame i3 is in buttonhole-cutting position, and when the machine is started the first movement of the cam 29 shifts the parts from buttonholecutting position into sewing position and the stitch-forming mechanism is then started in operation. During the stitching of the buttonhole the stitch frame moves first to the right Fig. 1 for the length of the buttonhole and then back toward the left to its initial position. If it be assumed that a fiy-bar buttonhole such as shown in Fig. 12 is to be sewed, then when the stitching starts the stitch frame is positioned so that the first stitches, which are the preliminary barring stitches 6, are formed in the line of the buttonhole slit, and after these barring stitches have been formed and while the stitch frame I3 is still moving to the right, said frame is turned slightly about the pin 26 as a pivot thereby swinging the stitch-forming mechanism laterally to one side of the buttonhole slit and into position to form the side stitches 3.

When the side stitches 3 have been formed the stitch-forming mechanism is given a half rotation to sew around the eye of the buttonhole during which time the stitch frame is given a swing- The bed frame.

ing movement first in one direction and then in the other to form the eye 2, and when the eye has been formed the stitch frame has its return feeding movement by which the side stitches 4 are formed. After the side stitching has been completed the stitch frame is given another turning movement about the pin 24 as its axis to bring the stitching back into the line of the buttonhole slit thereby completing the bar 8.

The means for giving the stitch frame its toand-fro swinging movement for sewing around the eye of the buttonhole is similar to that usually employed in buttonhole sewing machines of this type. The main cam 23 its provided on its under face with an eye-forming cam groove 26 in which is received a follower 21 carried by the end of a lever 28 that is fast on a rock shaft 29 journalled in a bearing portion 30 on the under portion of the stitch frame. This rock shaft 29 has another arm 3! fast thereto which carries at its end a block 32 that is received in a groove 33 formed in the under side of the bed frame 9. With this arrangement any swinging movement of the arm 28 will operate to give lateral movement to the rear end of the stitch frame and thereby give swinging movement to said frame about its pivot 0 The means for giving the lateral movement to the stitch frame which differentiates the barring stitches from the side stitches of the buttonhole comprises a barring cam element 34 which is,

shown as mounted on the bed frame 9 in the rear of the stitch frame l3, and is confined between two guiding members 35 that are rigid with the This cam is retained in position between these guideways 35 by hold-down plates 36 that are secured to the ribs or walls 35.

The barring cam element is provided with two

grooves

31, 38 which co-operate with two

followers

33, 40 in the form of pins which are mounted in and are vertically movable through a block 4! which is secured to the extension 22 of the stitch frame, said extension having the Opening 43 through which the

pins

39, 40 operate. As herein shown this block 4| is pivotally mounted on the extension 42 through the medium of a stud or screw 44. The two

pins

39 and 49 are capable of vertical movement in the block 4| so that either pin can be raised out of engagement with its barring cam groove or moved downwardly into engagement with said groove. These pins are connected together so that they move in unison but oppositely and hence when one pin is in operative engagement with its barring cam groove the other pin is raised out of engagement with the other groove. The connection between the two pins comprises a link 45 pivotally mounted on a stand or lug 46 rising from the block 4|. This link 35 has two

lateral fingers

41, 48 which are received in

grooves

49, 50 formed in the upper ends of the

pins

39, 40 as best seen in Figs. 5 and 6.

52 indicates a spring by which the coupled pins are yieldingly held in either position. This spring is in the form of a leaf spring, the end 53 of which is bent to engage the pointed end 54 of the link 45. In Fig. 6 the coupled pins are shown with the pin 39 in its operative position occupying the groove 31 and the pin 40 is in raised position withdrawn from the groove 38. The upper end 53 of the spring 52 yieldingly holds the pins in this position by its engagement with the end of the link. When the position of the pins has been reversed, as will be presently described, the pointed'end 54 of the link 45 snaps by the end 53 of the spring and the latter then functions yieldingly to hold the pins in said reversed position.

The barring cam groove 31 is formed with the straight portion 55, the offset or cam portion 56 and another straight portion I and the cam groove 38 is also formed with a. straight 'portion 51, the offset or cam portion 58, and another straight portion I51.

The block 4| is formed with an extension 59 having a depending projection or follower 60 at its outer end which is received in a straight openended groove 5| defined by the inner edges of the two hold-down plates 35.

The cam groove 3? and the corresponding pin 39 co-operate to produce the shift in position from the barring stitches 5 to'the side stitches 3 at the beginning of thebuttonhole while the cam groove 38 and the corresponding pin 40 co-operate to produce the shift from the side stitching 4 to the final barring stitches.

Since the block 4| in which the pins 39 and. 4B are mounted is carried by the stitch frame said pins will, during the sewing operation, have a movement longitudinally of the

grooves

31, 38.

When the machine has come to rest at the end of a sewing cycle the pin 33 is depressed and occupies the straight portion 55 of the cam groove 31 and the pin 53 occupies the slot 3| This positions the stitch frame so that the stitch-forming mechanism is in the same position laterally which it occupies when making the side stitches 3 along the side of the buttonhole. When the machine is started in operation the movement of the stitch frame to carry the parts from buttonhole-cutting position to stitching position shifts the pin 39 longitudinally of the straight portion 55 of the slot 3? to bring it into the oifs'et or cam portion 55 thereof. During this time the follower 60 is travelling in the straight slot 5| and the lateral movement of the pin 39 caused by entering the cam portion 55 of the slot 31 will cause the block t! to swing laterally about the follower 60 as a pivot and this will shift the rear end of the stitch frame |3 laterally in a direction toward the observer in Fig. 1. turning movement which will swing the front end thereof carrying the stitch-forming mechanism laterally into a position to bring the stitchforming mechanism in the line of the buttonhole slit. At this time the stitch-forming mechanism starts in operation and the first barring stitches 6 are formed while the pin 39 is travelling in the offset portion 55 of the slot 3?. When the pin 39 strikes the cam face 52 of the cam portion 55 of the slot 31, the block ill will be shifted laterally toward the top of Fig. 5 and this will shift the rear end of the stitch frame away from the observer in Fig. l, which will swing the front end carrying the stitch-forming mechanism toward the observer thereby shifting the stitch-forming mechanism laterally into a position to form the side stitches 3 along the sides of the buttonhole.

As the feeding movement of the stitch frame continues the pin passes out of the cam portion 55 of the slot 37 and into the straight portion I55, said pin occupying this straight portion during the formation of the first of the side stitches 3. While the side stitches 3 are being formed the pin 39 is gradually withdrawn from its groove 3'! and the pin 43 is gradually depressed into the straight portion 51 of the groove 38f In this Way the control of the position laterally of the stitch frame is transferred from the pin 39 to the pin the groove 33 before the pin 39 has been withdrawn from the straight portion I of the groove 3'? and, therefore, the stitch frame is continually under the control of either one or the other or both of the

pins

39 and 40 from the time that the machine is set in operation until after the pin 43 has been fully depressed into the straight portion 5'! of the groove 38. This reversal of the position of the

pins

39, 48 is accomplished automatically by the feeding movement of the stitch frame toward the right in Fig. 1, or, in other words, by the feeding movement of the

pins

39, 43 to the right in Fig. 4. For this purpose the straight portion I55 of the cam groove 31 is provided with an upwardly-inclined cam face 64 and as the pin 39 moves through this portion I55 the lower end of the pin engages the cam face 54 as shown in Fig. 7 thereby forcing the pin upwardly and causing it to be withdrawn from the groove. Such upward movement of the pin 39 operates through the link 45 to depress the pin 48.

The pins are so constructed that when either pin is fully raised the lower end thereof will just clear the upper face of the cam 34 as shown with respect to the pin 40 in Fig. 6. Therefore, as soon as the cam face 64 begins to force the pin 39 upwardly, the pin 43 will be caused to enter the straight portion 51 of the slot 38, it being understood that the distance between the straight portions of the two slots is the same as that between the two

pins

39 and 48. Hence as the pin 39 is gradually being withdrawn from the straight portion I55 of the groove 31 the pin 40 is being caused to enter into the straight portion 51 of the groove 38. This is shown in Fig. 7. Hence during this reversal of the pins both pins will be operative in controlling the lateral movement of the stitch frame and there is no break in the control during the reversal.

It will be understood that as the concatenation of the side stitches 3 progresses the stitch frame is moving toward the right in Fig. 1 and the

pins

39, 43 and 68 are also moving toward the right in Figs. 4, 5. The construction of the groove BI is preferably such that as the feeding movement of the stitch frame continues the pin 68 will pass out of the groove 6| just as the side stitches 3 have been completed and just when the stitching 5 around the eye end of the buttonhole is to begin. With the construction shown, therefore, the barring cam 34 maintains a control over the relative lateral movement of the stitch frame from the time that the machine is set in operation until the side stitches 3 on the buttonhole have been completed and the stitching 5 around the end of the buttonhole begins.

During the formation of the stitches 5 around the eye end of the buttonhole the control of the relative lateral movement between the stitchforming mechanism and the work is taken by the follower 21, said follower at this time passing through the sinuous portion 65 of the cam groove 26. This sinuous portion has the usual construction designed to give the stitch frame a lateral swinging movement first in one direction and then in the other in order to form the eye 2 of the buttonhole.

During the time that the barring cam 34 has control of the lateral movement of the stitch frame the cam groove 25 and follower 21 have no control and to provide for this the portion I28 of the cam groove 26 in which the follower 21 is operating while the barring cam 34 is controlling the lateral movement of the stitch frame, is made sufficiently wide so that it has no influence or action on the follower 21 and the latter is free to move laterally in the wide part of the groove as the stitch frame is shifted laterally by the operation of the barring cam 34.

It has been stated above that the pin passes out of the cam groove BI just as the follower pin 21 enters the sinuous portion of the cam groove 26. The construction is such that these two operations occur substantially simultaneously so that the instant the barring cam 34 relinquishes its control of the lateral movement of the stitch frame, such control is taken by the follower 21 and the sinuous portion 65 of the cam groove 26. In other words, just as the pin 68 reaches the dotted line position a. Fig. 4 in its travel towards the right, the pin 27 is at the dotted line position b in Fig. 9 and is just leaving the wide portion I28 and entering the sinuous portion 55. During the sewing around the eye of the buttonhole there is a slight feeding movement and the pin 63 is carried beyond or outside of the groove GI. As soon as the pin 63 passes out from the groove GI then the barring cam loses its control over the lateral movement of the stitch frame because the

pins

39 and 48 are carried in a block 44 which is pivotally secured to the stitch frame and in order that said barring cam may have control over such lateral movement it is necessary that the block 4| should be held from turning movement about its pivot 44 which is accomplished by the pin 60 when it is occupying the groove BI.

During the lateral movement of the stitch frame while the stitches 5 around the eye end of the buttonhole are being formed the pin 46 is still in engagement with the straight portion 51 of the cam groove 38, but, as stated above, the pin 60 is then situated beyond the end of the groove SI. During the lateral swinging movement of the stitch frame caused by the passage of the follower 21 through the sinuous portion 65 of the cam groove 26 the block 4|, which is pivoted to the stitch frame at 44, is caused to swing about the pin 40 thereby giving the pin 60 a movement laterally of the slot 6!. At this time the pin 69 is outside of the slot GI so that it is free to have this lateral movement.

As the stitching 5 around the eye end of the buttonhole proceeds the feeding movement of the stitch frame is reversed and just as the follower 2'I reaches the position shown in dotted lines o in Fig. 9 and is passing out from the sinuous portion 65 of the cam groove 66 the pin 60 again enters the open end of the slot 6| as shown by the dotted lines a in Fig. 4, and. the barring cam 34 again assumes control of the lateral motion of the stitch frame. This shift of control from the pin 21 and cam groove 65 to the barring cam device, including the barring cam 34 and the pins 40 and 63, operating in the

grooves

38 and 5|, occurs without any loss of control, the control being maintained by the cam groove 26 and follower 21 until it is assumed by the barring cam device.

When the barring cam device again takes control of the lateral movement of the stitch frame as above described, the stitching of the side stitches 4 begins and as these stitches are formed the stitch frame is moving toward the left in Fig. 1 and the pin 40 is moving toward the left in the straight portion 57 of the cam groove 38 while the pin 68 is also moving to the left in the groove 6|. By the time the side stitches 4 have been completed the operative follower pin 40 has reached the offset or cam portion 58 of the barring cam slot 38 and as said pin enters said portion 58 the block 4| is given a shifting movement toward the upper part of Fig. about the follower 68 as a center and such shifting movement moves the rear end of the stitch frame l3 away from the observer in Fig. 1 which will swing the front end toward the observer and bring the line of stitching from the side of the buttonhole, as indicated by the stitches 4, into the line of the buttonhole slit, thereby completing the bar 8. When the bar 8 has been completed the clutch dog I25 is released and the stitchforming mechanism is brought to rest as usual in buttonhole sewing machines, and during the further movement of the stitch frame l3 to the left to carry it from stitch-forming position to buttonhole-cutting position the pin 48 passes into the straight portion l5! of the groove 38 and then is withdrawn from the cam slot 38 while the pin 39 is depressed into the straight portion 55 of the cam slot 3?. This reversal of the pins is accomplished automatically by the feeding movement of the stitch frame for which purpose the straight portion [51 of the cam slot 38 has the upwardly-inclined cam face 65 with which the lower end of the pin 38 engages as 'it passes through to the straight portion i5lof the slot 38. Because of the way in which the pins are connected the withdrawing of the pin 48 from the slot 38 causes the pin 39 to be depressed into the straight portion 55 of the slot 37 and, as in the case of the reversal of the position of the pins by the cam face 64, the withdrawing movement of the pin 45 from its cam slot occurs while the pin 39 is being introduced into the straight portion 55 of the slot 31 so that during the transfer both pins are operative in maintaining control over any lateral movement of the stitch frame and there is no loss of control while shifting from one pin to the other.

The completion of the bar 8 occurs while the pin 48 is in engagement with the straight wall I56 of the offset portion 58 of the cam groove and the stitch-forming mechanism comes to rest just as or before the pin 48 engages the inclined wall I58. As the stitch frame continues its movement from stitching position to buttonhole-cutting position the pin 40 moves along the inclined wall 258 and the stitch frame is given a lateral swinging movement which brings the stitchforzning mechanism back into the position laterally with reference to the work which it occupied while sewing along the sides of the buttonhole.

It will be understood that the shift in position of the stitches from one side to the other of the buttonhole results from the half rotation which the stitch-forming mechanism has as it sews around .the end of the buttonhole and that the stitch frame has a central position with respect to the center line of the buttonhole while the side stitches 3 and 4 on either side of the buttonhole are being made. Consequently with the construction shown in Figs. 4 and 5 the machine is brought to rest with the stitch frame in its central position with regard to its lateral movement and while forming the preliminary barring stitches 6, it is shifted laterally out of its central position by the pin 39 passing through the offset portion 55 of the cam slot 31 and then is shifted back to its central position for sewing the stitches along the sides of the buttonhole, and as the stitching along the sides of the buttonhole is completed the stitch frame is shifted laterally again out of its central position by the pin 40 passing through the offset portion 58 of the slot 38 and is then returned to the central position after the stitching has been completed and the stitch-forming mechanism has come to rest and while the parts are moving from stitching to buttonhole-cutting position.

The barring cam device thus maintains control of the lateral movement of the stitch frame from the time it assumes control after the eye of the buttonhole is formed, until the sewing machine comes to rest at the end of the sewing cycle. In fact, the barring cam still maintains its control after the machine has come to rest and has control when the machine is started on the next buttonhole and continues its control until the sewing around the eye end of the buttonhole begins. As a result the lateral movement of the stitch frame is under absolute control from the time that the machine is set in operation until the entire buttonhole cycle is completed and. the machine has been again brought to rest, notwithstanding the fact that during this buttonhole sewing cycle the control of the lateral movement has been shifted from the barring cam 34 to the main cam 28 and back again.

It will be observed that with the construction herein shown there is a relative lateral shifting movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and the work before the stitching begins and before the preliminary barring stitches 6 are formed. Such relative lateral movement is the result of the pin 39 passing from the straight portion 55 of the cam groove 31 into the offset portion 56.

The machine herein shown is also constructed so that after the completion of the bar 8 and after the stitch-forming mechanism comes to rest there is a relative lateral movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and the work which is the result of the pin 40 passing from the offset portion 58 of the cam groove 38 into the straight portion I51 of said groove.

Buttonhole sewing machines of this type are usually provided with means by which the length of the buttonhole can be adjusted. The present construction is such that the operation of adjusting the machine for the length of buttonhole also results in adjusting the barring cam 34 in its guide 35 so that said barring cam is always operatively positioned for forming the barring stitches regardless of the length of the buttonhole.

The adjustment for varying the length of the button-hole comprises the usual control slide 61 mounted on the bed frame 9 and provided with the cam portion 68 which co-operates with a roll 89 carried by the lever 10 that controls the clutch for the shaft 25 by which the stitchforming mechanism is operated. During the movement of the stitch frame l3 from buttonhole-cutting position tostitching position the roll 89 engages the cam surface 68 thereby rocking the controlling lever 10 and throwing the clutch into operation as described in the abovementioned Patent No. 1,696,893.

The feeding cam 20 gives the stitch frame a fixed amplitude of back and forth movement and the length of the buttonhole depends upon the point in the backward movement at which the stitch-forming mechanism is set in operation, and.

this in turn depends upon the adjusted position of the control slide 61 with its cam 58. This slide,

can be adjusted into any desired position through the medium of a lever H pivoted at 12. and having a forked end 13 which engages a pin 14 rising from the front end of the slide 61. The slide is clamped in its adjusted position by a clamping screw 15. This means for adjusting the length of the buttonhole is the same as that shown in the above-mentioned Patent No. 1,696,893.

' In order that the barring cam may function properly in all adjusted positions of the control slide 6'! I have herein provided means for connecting said cam to the slide so that the barring cam will be adjusted with and to the same extent as said slide. For this purpose the slide 61 has an L-shaped connecting member 16 se cured thereto at H, the angular portion '18 of said member being secured to the barring cam 34. Hence as the slide 9'. is moved forwardly or backwardly to vary the length of the buttonhole the barring cam 34 will be moved correspondingly in its guide 35 and hence will always be in proper position to produce the barring stitches when the stitch-forming mechanism is set in operation, regardless of the length of the buttonhole.

The construction herein shown is also provided with means for rendering the follower 2'| inoperative while sewing around the eye end of the buttonhole and for holding the stitch frame from lateral movement thereby to produce a buttonhole without an eye as shown in Fig. 13. For this purpose the follower 2'! is mounted for vertical movement in the end of the arm 28 and its lower end is pivotally connected at 19 to one end of a lever 89 which in turn is pivoted at to a stem 82 depending from the under side of the lever 28.

The rear end of the lever 89 is pivoted at 93 to a rod 84 which slides vertically through the rock shaft 29. Normally the upper end of the rod 84 comes flush with the top of the arm 3| but when the lever 89 is rocked counter-clockwise about its pivot 8| the upper end of the rod 84 is raised above the arm 3|.

The bed frame 9 is provided at its rear end on its under side with a groove 85 and this groove is positioned to receive the upper end 86 of the rod 94 when the latter is raised and when the stitch frame is approaching the right hand end of its travelling movement.

If it is desired to stitch a buttonhole without an eye then the lever 89 is turned so as to Withdraw the follower 2'! from the groove 26 and this operation raises the head 89 of the pin 84 into position so that when the eye end of the buttonhole has been reached said head 89 will enter the groove 85. Thus in sewing the end of the buttonhole opposite the barred end the stitch frame will be held from any swinging movement by the engagement of the head 89 of the pin 84 in the groove 89 and by the engagement of the pin 49 in the straight portion 51 of the groove 38. Under these conditions the stitch frame is held from any lateral movement and is capable only of a forward and backward movement, and hence when the end of the buttonhole is reached the turning movement of the stitch-forming mechanism around the end of the buttonhole will form a buttonhole without an eye as shown in Fig. 13.

Means are provided for manually shifting the lever 89 so that the operator can produce the buttonhole with or without an eye as he desires. This controlling of the lever 89 is accomplished through a manually manipulated control lever 81 pivoted at 88 to a support 89 mounted on the stitch frame. The rear end of the lever has a link 90 pivoted thereto, and the lower end of the link is bent laterally as shown at 9|, see Fig. 3, and is connected to the lever 80 at 92. The depressing of the free end of the lever 8'! will raise the rear end of the lever 80 thereby withdrawing the follower 27 from the cam groove 26 and raising the head 86 of the pin 84 into position to enter the slot 85. The lever 81 is provided with a latch device for holding it in either position. This latch device is in the form of a latch pin 93 which extends through the lever 81 and is adapted to engage in either one of two apertures 94 formed in a bracket 95. This latch pin 93 is manipulated by a latch lever 96 pivoted to the lever 81 at 91 and. acted on by a suitable spring 98. The end 99 of the latch lever 96 is forked and engages in a groove I00 formed in the latch pin.

The block 4| is shown as having a forwardlyextending finger I02 which underlies a plate |0| secured to the extension 42'of the stitch frame, such plate serving as a guide for the block in its turning movement about its pivot 44.

The device herein shown is constructed so that the extent of the relative lateral shifting movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and the work in changing from barring stitches to side stitches and vice versa, may be varied so that the barring stitches may have different positions laterally with respect to the center line of the buttonhole. This end is accomplished by providing the block 4| with one or more additional holes I29 in any one of which the pivot pin 44 may be placed. With the pivot pin 44 in the position shown in the drawings the stitch-forming mechanism will have a predetermined lateral shifting movement as the follower pin 39 passes into and out from the offset portion 56 of the cam groove 37, and a lateral movement of equal extent as the follower pin 40 passes into and through the offset or cam portion 58 of the cam groove 38. If the pivot pin 44 is shifted into the aperture I29 the relative length of the lever arms of the block 4| will be changed and the rear end of the stitch frame will be given a smaller lateral shifting movement which will result in a change in the position of barring stitches with respect to the center line of the buttonhole.

I claim:

1. A buttonhole sewing machine having workholding means and stitch-forming mechanism movable relatively in the direction of the length of the buttonhole and also movable relatively in a transverse direction, a barring cam device for producing relative transverse movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means at the beginning and ending of the buttonhole, a follower element under the control of the barring cam device throughout the entire buttonhole sewing cycle, means to render said follower operative to control said relative transverse movement throughout the entire buttonhole sew ing cycle except when sewing around the eye end of the buttonhole, and an eye-forming cam for producing such relative transverse movement while sewing around said eye end of the buttonhole.

2. A buttonhole sewing machine having a workframe, work-holding means carried thereby, a stitch frame, stitch-forming mechanism carried thereby, said work frame and stitch frame having a relative feeding movement in the direction of the length of the buttonhole and also a relative transverse movement at the ends of the buttonhole, a barring cam device, a follower element under the control of the barring cam device throughout the buttonhole sewing cycle, said barring cam device producing a lateral movement in the follower at the beginning and ending of the buttonhole, means operatively connecting said follower element to the stitch frame throughout the entire buttonhole sewing cycle except when sewing around the eye end of the buttonhole, and an eyeforming cam for moving the stitch frame relatively laterally while sewing around said eye end.

3. A buttonhole sewing machine having a work frame, work-holding means carried thereby, a stitch frame, stitch-forming mechanism carried thereby, said stitch frame being movable on the work frame to produce a movement of the stitchforming mechanism relative to the work-holding means both in the direction of the length of the buttonhole and in a direction transverse thereto, a barring cam device having cam grooves, a follower device in operative engagement with said cam grooves throughout the entire buttonhole sewing cycle, means to establish an operative connection between the follower device and the stitch frame while sewing the entire buttonhole except the eye, and means separate from the barring cam for producing a relative lateral movement of the stitch frame while sewing around the eye of the buttonhole.

4. A buttonhole sewing machine having a work frame, work-holding means carried thereby, a stitch frame, stitch-forming mechanism carried thereby, said stitch frame being movable on the work frame to produce a movement of the stitchforming mechanism relative to the work-holding means both in the direction of the length of the buttonhole and in a direction transverse thereto, a barring cam device on the work frame at the rear of the stitch frame and having cam grooves, a follower device in operative engagement with said cam grooves throughout the entire buttonhole sewing cycle, means to establish an operative connection between the follower device and the stitch frame while sewing the entire buttonhole except the eye, and means separate from the barring cam to control the relative lateral motion between the stitch frame and work frame while sewing around the eye end of the buttonhole.

5. A buttonhole sewing machine having a work frame, work-holding means carried thereby, a stitch frame, stitch-forming mechanism mounted thereon, means to give the stitch frame a feeding movement relative to the work frame, a barring cam device having two cam grooves, two follower pins, one for each cam groove, a connection between said pins whereby either one or the other is in operative engagement with its cam groove during the entire buttonhole sewing cycle, means to transmit the cam-controlled movement of each follower pin to the stitch frame throughout the complete buttonhole cycle except when the stitch-forming mechanism is sewing around the end of the buttonhole, and an eye-forming cam separate from the barring cam device for giving lateral movement to the stitch-forming mechanism when sewing around the eye end of the buttonhole.

6. A buttonhole sewing machine comprising a work frame, work-holding means mounted thereon, a stitch frame movably mounted on the work frame, stitch-forming mechanism carried by the stitch frame, means for giving the stitch frame a feeding movement in the direction of the length of the buttonhole, a barring cam device carried by the work frame at the rear of the stitch frame and comprising two cam grooves, two follower pins, one for each cam groove, carried by the stitch frame at the rear thereof, one or the other of the follower pins being in operative engage ment with its cam groove throughout the entire buttonhole forming cycle, said cam grooves and follower pins co-operating to give the stitch frame a transverse movement at the beginning and at the ending of the buttonhole, thereby to form barring stitches.

7. A buttonhole sewing machine having a work frame, work-holding means carried thereby, a movable stitch frame, stitch-forming mechanism carried thereby, means to give the stitch frame a feeding movement in the direction of the length of the buttonhole, a barring cam carried by the work frame and having two cam grooves, two follower pins carried by the stitch frame, one for each cam groove, one pin being operative at the beginning of the sewing on the buttonhole and the other being operative at the ending of the sewing on the buttonhole, a connection between said pins whereby when either pin is rendered inoperative the other pin is rendered operative, and means to render the first-named pin inoperative after the barring stitches at the beginning of the buttonhole have been made and to :render the other pin inoperative after the barring stitches at the end of the buttonholehave been completed.

8. A buttonhole sewing machine having a work frame, work-ho1ding means carried thereby, a movable stitch frame, stitch-forming mechanism carried thereby, means to give the stitch frame a feeding movement in the direction of the length of the buttonhole, a barring cam carried by the work frame and having two cam grooves, two follower pins carried by the stitch frame, one for each cam groove, each pin being movable from operative position'in its groove to an inoperative position withdrawn from the groove, and one pin being operative while the initial stitches of the buttonhole are being made and the other pin being operative while thefinal stitches of the buttonhole are being made, each groove having a pin-ejecting cam surface by which its pin is automatically thrown into inoperative position during the movement of the stitch frame, and a connection between said pins, whereby the movement of each pin into inoperative position moves the other pin into operative position.

' 9. A buttonhole sewing machine having a work frame, work-holding means carried thereby, a movable stitch frame, stitch-forming mechanism carried thereby, means for giving the stitch frame a feeding movement in the direction of the length of the buttonhole, a barring cam carried by the work frame and having two cam grooves, a block pivotally mounted on the stitch frame, two follower p-ins mounted in said block, one for each cam groove, each pin being movable from operative position in its groove to inoperative position withdrawn from its groove, means connecting said pins whereby when one is thrown into inoperative position the other is thrown into operative position, means rendered operative by the feeding movement of the stitch frame to move one pin into its inoperative position after the initial stitches on the buttonhole have been formed and to move the other pin into inoperative position after the final stitches on the buttonhole have been formed, an eye-forming cam for giving lateral movement to the stitch frame while sewing around the eye end of the buttonhole, and means holding said block from turning movement while sewing alongthe sides of the buttonhole but permitting said block to turn about its pivot while sewing around the eye end of the buttonhole.

10. A'buttonhole sewing machine having a work frame, work-holding means carried thereby, a

stitch frame, stitch-forming mechanism mounted thereon, means to give the stitch frame a feeding movement relative to the work frame, a barring cam device having two cam grooves, two follower pins, one for each cam groove, a connection between said pins whereby either one or the other is in operative engagement with its cam groove during the entire buttonhole sewing cycle, means to transmit the cam-controlled movement of the follower pins to the stitch frame throughout the complete buttonhole cycle except when the stitch-forming mechanism is sewing around the end of the buttonhole, and an eye-forming cam carried by the stitch frame and separate from the barring cam device for giving lateral movement to the stitch-forming mechanism when sewing around the eye end of the buttonhole.

Li. A buttonhole sewing machine having a work frame, work-holding means carried thereby, a stitch frame, stitch-forming mechanism mounted thereon, means to give the stitch frame a feeding movement relative to the work frame, a barring cam device having two cam grooves, two follower pins, one for each cam groove, a connection between said pins whereby either one or the other is in operative engagement with its cam groove during the entire buttonhole sewing cycle, means to transmit the cam-controlled movement of the follower pins to the stitch frame throughout the complete buttonhole cycle except when the stitch-forming mechanism is sewing around the end of the buttonhole, and means separate from the barring cam device and carried by the work frame for preventing the stitch frame from moving laterally relative to the work frame while sewing around the end of the buttonhole.

12. A buttonhole sewing machine having a work frame carrying work-holding means, a stitch frame carrying stitch-forming mechanism, means to give the stitch frame a feeding movement relative to the work frame, a barring cam device on the work frame having two cam grooves, two follower pins on the stitch frame, one for each cam groove, a connection between said follower pins whereby either one or the other is in operative engagement with its cam groove during the entire buttonhole sewing cycle, means for transmitting the cam-controlled movement of the follower pins to the stitch frame throughout the entire buttonhole cycle except when the stitchforming mechanism is sewing around the end of the buttonhole, an eye-forming cam carried by the stitch frame, means actuated by said cam to give lateral movement to the stitch frame while sewing around the eye end of the buttonhole, and means to render said eye-forming cam either operative or inoperative.

13. A buttonhole sewing machine having a work frame carrying work-holding means, a stitch frame carrying stitch-forming mechanism, means to give the stitch frame a feeding movement relative to the work frame, a barring cam device on the work frame having two cam grooves, two follower pins on the stitch frame, one for each cam groove, a connection between said follower pins whereby either one or the other is in operative engagement with its cam groove during the entire buttonhole sewing cycle, means for transmitting the cam-controlled movement of the follower pins to the stitch frame throughout the entire buttonhole cycle except when the stitchforming mechanism is sewing around the end of the buttonhole, an eye-forming cam carried by the stitch frame, means actuated by said cam to give lateral movement to the stitch frame while sewing around the eye end of the buttonhole, means to render said eye-forming cam either operative or inoperative, and co-operating means on the stitch frame and work frame other than the barring mechanism to prevent lateral movement of the stitch frame during the sewing around the end of the buttonhole and when the eyeforming cam is inoperative.

14. A buttonhole sewing machine for sewing a fly bar buttonhole, said sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism, work-holding means, means to produce a relative movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means in the direction of the length of the buttonhole, eye-forming means to give a relative lateral movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means during the sewing around the eye end of the buttonhole, and other means to give a relative lateral motion between the stitch-forming mechanism and the work-holding means at the beginning and the ending of the stitching, thereby to form a fly bar, said other means being adjustable to vary the extent of the relative lateral motion produced thereby.

15. A buttonhole sewing machine having stitchforming mechanism, work-holding means, means to give a relative movement between the stitchforming mechanism and the work-holding means in the direction of the length of the buttonhole, a second means to give a relative lateral movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means during the sewing around the eye of the buttonhole, said second means having an operative or inoperative position, a third means operative when the second means is in inoperative position to hold the stitch-forming mechanism in alignment with the buttonhole while sewing around the end thereof, means to render the second-named means operative or inoperative and the third means simultaneously inoperative or operative, and a fourth means to control the relative lateral movement at the beginning and ending of the buttonhole.

16. A buttonhole sewing machine for sewing a fly bar buttonhole, said sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism, work-holding means, means to give a relative movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and the work-holding means in the direction of the length of the buttonhole, a second means to give a relative lateral motion between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means during the sewing around the eye of the buttonhole, a third means to hold the stitch-forming mechanism in alignment with the buttonhole while sewing around said end thereof, means to render the secondnamed means operative or inoperative and the third means simultaneously inoperative or operative, and a fourth means to give the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means a relative lateral movement at the beginning and ending of the buttonhole, said fourth means being adjustable to produce a greater or less relative lateral movement.

17. A buttonhole sewing machine for sewing a fly bar buttonhole, said sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means, means to give said stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means a relative feeding movement in the direction of the length of the buttonhole, and means to produce a relative lateral movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means at the beginning and ending of the buttonhole thereby to form the fly bar, said latter means being adjustable to vary the extent of the relative lateral motion produced thereby, and adjustable means to control the point in the relative feeding movement at which the stitching begins and ends, whereby the length of the buttonhole may be varied.

18. A buttonhole sewing machine for sewing a fly bar buttonhole, said sewing machine having a work frame carrying work-holding means, a stitch frame carrying stitch-forming mechanism, means to move the stitch frame on the work frame in the direction of the length of the buttonhole, eye-forming means to give the stitch frame a lateral movement relative to the work frame while sewing around the eye of the buttonhole, and barring means to give the stitch "frame a relative lateral movement while sewing the fly bar end of the buttonhole, said barring means being adjustable to vary the extent of the lateral movement involved in forming the bar.

19. A buttonhole sewing machine for sewing a fly bar buttonhole, said sewing machine having a work frame carrying work-holding means, a stitch frame carrying stitch-forming mechanism, means to move the stitch frame on the work frame in the direction of the length of the buttonhole, eye-forming means to move the stitch frame laterally relative to the work frame while sewin around the eye end of the buttonhole, means including a control lever situated above the work frame to render the eye-forming means operative or inoperative, barring means to move the stitch frame laterally relative to the Work frame while sewing the fly bar end of the buttonhole, and means other than the barring means which is rendered operative automatically when the eye-forming means is inoperative to hold the stitch-forming mechanism from lateral movement while sewing around the end of the buttonhole.

20. A buttonhole sewing machine having stitchforming mechanism, work-holding means, means to give a relative movement between the stitchforming mechanism and work-holding means in the direction of the length of the buttonhole, a second means to give a relative lateral movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and the work-holding means at the beginning and ending of the sewing on the buttonhole, a third means to give a relative lateral motion between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means while sewing around the eye of the buttonhole, a fourth means to render the third means operative or inoperative, and a fifth means to prevent lateral movement of the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means during the sewing around the end of the buttonhole and while the third-named means is inoperative.

21. A buttonhole sewing machine having workholding means, stitch-forming mechanism, means to produce a relative feeding movement between the work-holding means and stitch-forming mechanism in the direction of the length of the buttonhole, a barring cam device, a follower element under the control of the barring cam device throughout the entire buttonhole sewing cycle, means connected with the follower for producing a relative transverse movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means at the beginning and ending of the but tonhole thereby to form a fly bar, said means operating to control said relative transverse movement throughout the entire buttonhole sewing cycle except when sewing around the eye end of the buttonhole, and an eye-forming cam for producing such relative transverse movement while sewing around said eye end of the buttonhole.

22. A buttonhole sewing machine having a work frame, a stitch frame, work-holding means carried by the work frame, stitch-forming mechanism carried by the stitch frame, means to produce a relative feeding movement between the work frame and the stitch frame in the direction of the length of the buttonhole, a barring cam device, a follower element under the control of the barring cam device throughout the entire buttonhole sewing cycle, means connected with the follower for giving the stitch frame a transverse movement at the beginning and ending of the buttonhole thereby to form barring stitches,

said means operating to control the transverse movement of the stitch frame throughout the entire buttonhole sewing cycle except when sewing around the eye end of the buttonhole, and an eye-forming cam for moving the stitch frame transversely while sewing around said eye end of the buttonhole.

23. A buttonhole sewing machine for sewing a'fly bar buttonhole, said sewing machine having a work frame carrying work-holding means, a stitch frame carrying stitch-forming mechanism, said work frame and stitch frame being movable relatively both in the direction of the length of the buttonhole and in a lateral direction, a feed cam for producing the relative movement lengthwise of the buttonhole, an eye-forming cam operative only while sewing around the eye of a buttonhole to produce said relative lateral motion, a third cam controlling the relative lateral movement during the entire buttonhole cycle except when the eye-forming cam is operative, means to render the eye-forming cam operative or inoperative and means which are operative when the eye-forming cam is inoperative and which cooperate with said third cam to control the relative lateral movement of the stitch frame and work frame.

24. A buttonhole sewing machine for sewing fly bar buttonholes, said sewing machine having a work frame carrying work-holding means, a stitch frame carrying stitch-forming mechanism, a feed cam for producing relative movement between the stitch frame and work frame lengthwise of the buttonhole, an eye-forming cam operative only While sewing around the eye of the buttonhole to produce relative lateral movement between the stitch frame and work frame, a barring cam controlling the relative lateral movement between the stitch frame and work frame during the entire buttonhole cycle except when the eye-forming cam is operative, means including a control lever situated above the work frame to render the eye-forming cam operative or inoperative and means rendered operative automatically by said control lever when the eye-forming cam is inoperative to control the relative lateral movement between the stitch frame and work frame while sewing around the end of the buttonhole.

25. A buttonhole sewing machine having a work frame carrying work-holding means, a stitch frame carrying stitch-forming mechanism, said stitch frame being. movable on the work frame both in a direction lengthwise of the buttonhole and in a lateral direction, a feed a barring cam on the work frame having operative engagement with the follower element throughout the entire buttonhole forming cycle,

means co-operating with the block at the beginning and ending of the buttonhole to cause the cam-given movement of said block to move the stitch frame laterally thereby forming barring stitches, and an eye-forming cam operative to control such lateral movement while sewing around the eye end of the buttonhole.

26. A buttonhole sewing machine having a work frame carrying work-holding means, a stitch frame carrying stitch-forming mechanism, said stitch frame being movable on the work frame both in a direction lengthwise of the buttonhole and in a lateral direction, a feed cam for producing the lengthwise movement of the stitch frame, a block pivoted to the stitch frame, a follower element carried by the block, a barring cam on the work frame having operative engagement with the follower element throughout the entire buttonhole forming cycle, means co-operating with said block and said barring cam throughout the entire buttonhole sewing cycle except while sewing around the eye end of the buttonhole to control the lateral movement of the stitch frame, and an eye-forming cam operative to control such lateral movement while sewing around the eye end of the buttonhole.

27. A buttonhole sewing machine having a work frame carrying work-holding means and provided with two bar-forming cam slots and an open-ended slot, a stitch frame carrying stitchforming mechanism, said stitch frame being movable on the work frame both in a direction lengthwise of the buttonhole and in a lateral direction, a feed cam for producing the lengthwise movement of the stitch frame, two follower pins co-operating with said barring cam slots and having operative engagement therewith throughout the entire buttonhole sewing cycle, a third follower pin co-operating with said openended slot, said third follower pin occupying said slot throughout the entire buttonhole cycle except when sewing around the eye end of the buttonhole, at which time said third follower pin is free from said open-ended slot and an eyeforming cam controlling the lateral movement of the stitch frame during the time that said third follower pin is thus free from said openended slot.

28. A buttonhole sewing machine having a work frame carrying work-holding means, a stitch frame carrying stitch-forming mechanism, said frames being movable relative to each other both in a direction lengthwise of the buttonhole and in a direction transversely thereto, said work frame having two barring

cam grooves

31, 33 and an open-ended groove 6|, two follower pins 39, 40 co-operating with the barring cam grooves and a third follower pin (Bo-operating with the open-ended groove for controlling the relative lateral movement between the stitch frame and work frame during the entire buttonhole sewing cycle except when sewing around the eye end of the buttonhole and an eye-forming cam controlling such relative lateral movement while sewing'around the eye end of the but-. tonhole.

29. A buttonhole sewing machine having a work frame carrying work-holding means, a stitch frame carrying stitch-forming mechanism, said stitch frame and work frame being movable relatively both in the direction of the length of the buttonhole and in a lateral direction, said work frame having barring cam grooves and an open-ended groove, a block piv-. oted to the stitch frame, follower pins carried by said block and co-operating with said barring cam grooves, another follower pin carried by said block and operating in said open-ended groove except while sewing around the eye end of the buttonhole, at which time said other follower pin is free from said open-ended groove and an eye-forming cam controlling the relative lateral movement between the work frame and stitch frame while sewing around the eye end of the buttonhole.

30. A buttonhole sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism, work-holding means, means for producing a relative movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and workholding means in the direction of the length of the buttonhole, means for rotating the stitchforming mechanism in sewing around the eye end of the buttonhole, and means to give a relative lateral motion between the stitch-forming mechanism and the work-holding means at the beginning and ending of the stitching to form a fly bar, said last named means being adjustable to vary the extent of the relative lateral motion produced thereby.

31. A buttonhole sewing machine for sewing a buttonhole having an eye and fly bar, said machine having stitch-forming mechanism, workholding means, means to produce a relative movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means in the direction of the length of the buttonhole, and mechanism to give a relative lateral motion between the stitch-forming mechanism and the work-holding means during the sewing around the eye end of the buttonhole to form an eye and at the beginning and ending of the stitching to form a fly bar, said last named mechanism being adjustable to vary the extent of the relative lateral motion produced thereby during the formation of the fly bar and thereby vary the width of the latter.

JOSEPH H. PIKUL.