US1404855A - heilmann - Google Patents

Description

H. B. HEILMANN.

GARMENT.

APPLICATION FILED JULY I9. |920.

Patented Jan. 31, 1922.

3 SHEETSSHEET 1- HaroZeZBQHZmnni H. B. HIiIIIvI/IIIII.`

GABMENT.

APPLICATION IILED IIILY I9. |920.

Patented JanI 31, 1922.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

Harold B. Heilmann,

MJWMWMY/ UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

HAROLD B. HEILMANN, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

GARMENT.

Application filed July 19,

To @ZZ cl2/om 'it may cof/mara Be it known that l, l non) B. Hmmm-WN, a citizen o3? the United States, residing at New York, in the county oit New i'orland State of New York, have invented new and useful Improvements in Garments, oi? which the following is a specilication.

The present invention relates to union garments of that general type new in use and which is characterized by an open front and a partially open bach 'to provide an appropriate seat opening, so that the garment may be conveniently unbuttoned to uncover the buttocks and which, when buttonod, will give a smooth and iinished closure.

Broadly considered, this type ol3 garment is old and my improvement is to be regarded as a specific improvement on this generally old type.

My specific improvement has advantages in the matter of convenience and economy in cutting the pieces olwhich the garnicht is made; facility in assembling and sewing the pieces together, and advantages in lit and ease of manipulation in the ilnished garment which distinguish it from anything known to me in the prior art.

In order that the same may be clear to those skilled in the art, I have disclosed in the drawings herewith one physical embodiment of the invention, but it will be understood that this disclosure is illustrative but not restrictive of my invention.

In the drawings:

Figure 1 is a front view of my improved garment.

VFi, fure 2 is a back view with the garment buttoned.

Figure is a back view with the garment unbuttoned.

Figure 4 is a view of one of the iront pieces oi which the garment is made, the other front piece being identical with this as they are rights and lofts.

Figure 5 is a front view oi" the upper bach piece.

Figure 6 is a view oi: a leg piece tor the back of the leg` this leg piece being the left leg, as shown in Figure 2,y in the particular garment here illustrated.

Figure 7 is a view ot the back leg piece for the right leg shown in Figure 2.

Figure 8 is a View of the flap and leg piece Jrorming part of the right leg shown in Figure 2.

Referring to the drawings by numbers,

Specification of Letters etent.

Patented Jan. 31, 1922.

i020. serial No. 397,197.

like numbers indicating like parts in the several views, 10 denotes the front piece of the garment which, as shown in Figures 1 and 2. is a single piece made in right-s and lefts and provided with suitable fastenings at the central meeting` edges, such ttor eX- ample as the buttons and buttonholes shown. Ait their upper ends, the pieces 10 will be provided with suitable neck yolres and reinforces and joined on the shoulders with the back pie-ce il, which, as shown in Figure 5, is preferably cut in a single piece, suitably shaped as to neck and arm holes.

1t will be observed that the crotch cuts 12 ot the pieve-s 11 are so made as that in the assembled garment (see Figure 1) the seam oining the crotch ed will be at the front of the leg and not at the inner side of the leg, and furthermore, the crotch is so formed on the Ltront pieces as that its upper end, formed by the meeting edges ot' the two iront pieces 10, is above and in front of the crotch, the back pieces of the legs, which will be hereinafter described, being so shaped as to throw this seam forward and avoid a multiplicity of seams immediately at and below the crotch.

As stated, the back section 11 forms the upper portion of the back of the garment and the lower portion or the leg parts will be formed with respect to one leg (the left leg as shown in Figure 2) from the piece shown in Figure 6, the leg piece 13 being cut so as to give sullicient material at the inside legedge 111 and the inside crotch edge 15 (see dotted lines in Figure `6), as to permit these edges to be brought forward and joined with the crotch edges 12 in front as shown in Figure l, instead of at the inside ot' the leg and directly beneath the crotch, thus eliminating all except the central seam 16 beneath the crotch which joins the crotch edges 15 of the leg piece 18 with the opposite leg.

The other leg of the garment (the right leg as here shown in Figure 2) is preferably formed of two pieces 17 (Fig. 7) and 18 (Fig. 8). the piece 17 being cut at its inside on curve 19 so as to give, when the pieces are assembled, a rear opening as will appear from Figure 3.

The section 18 is cut :so as to form a complementary part 2O for the leg portion 17 and, when assembled, serves to cover the rear opening formed by the piece 17 in its cut away part 19, and the piece 18 furtherand the leg section 13 and the leg section 17 `will, at their upper ends, be stitched into the permanent waist-band 23, as will appear in Figure The leg section 21 of the piece 18 will, as shown in Figure 2, be stitched down the back of the leg away fromv the inside and the crotch to the piece 17, so that there will be no inner or crotch seams except that central seam 16 heretofore described, and

launching of seamswith the attendant diiii- -culties inl sewing and the discomforts incident to a multiplicity of seams at the inside ofthe legsand the crotch is done away with.

The flap section 2() of the leg section 18 swings over and past the median line of the body andV its outeredge lies beyond the point or center of the buttoclr. With this arrangement, the closure with its fasteners is removed from the seating area of the buttocks and the discom-for'ts incident to a seam or closure traversing that area are avoided. Furthermore, the closure line is at a point removed from the line of strain, so that gapinO- and opening of the closure is avoided.

he coveringflap is so disposed as that 'but few Vfastenings are necessary, one as n shown at the waist-band and the other at substantially the top of the curve in the flap, and these are so positioned that they may be readily manipulated in releasingand closing the flap.

It will be observed that with this closure, all outside seam openings are done away with and the garment as viewed from either side is completely closed as to its side seams. The back closure is of such construction that it gives a properly positionedV and proportioned opening whenv unfastened, without the necessity of a loose side flap of any great area and Without unduly extending the loose *waist band portion.

.It-will be understood, of course, that variations in design may be made to a considera'bleextentwithout departing from my invention and that while I have disclosed herein the cuttings of pieces of what I bei from. my invention.

lieve to be the best and most economical form, they might, of course, be cut into several component parts without departing For example, the piece-'178 might be formed in two parts with the leg section 2l one piece and the flap sec tion 20 in another piece, and such Variations the crotch, a back comprising .cody and leg within the range portions, one of which leg portions is closed ann has its inner side extended to project forwardly past the inside of the leg and above the crotch to the cut back edge Vof the same leg front portion, and the other leg portioirhas a seat opening and is cut away at the inside of the leg so as netto extend directly to the front leg portion for the same leg, a closingidap for said opening secured to the inner edge of the closed leg portion, said flap being free at its top and curved out'- wardly from its top andthen inwardly to the inner side of the leg portion. having the opening, and a leg section at the lower en d of said closing flap extending down the inside of the leg, said Hap leg-section extending forwardly past the inside of the leg and above the crotch to the cut back edge of the same leg front portion and extendingrearwardly to the inner edge ofthe back leg portion to which it is joined by a line of stitching extending from a point at the base of the right buttock to the lower end of the same leg portion, said opening covered by the flap terminating at the top of said line of stitching.

2. A union garment comprising front body and leg portions and having a body opening to permit putting on of the garment, the leg portions being cutv at their inner sides to bring their edges forwardly away from the inner sides of the legs and above the crotch, a back comprising body and leg portions, one of which leg portions has a seat opening and the other legV portion has its inner side extended to project forwardly past the inside of the leg" and above the crotch to the cut back edge of the same leg portion, the leg portion 'having the opening being cut away at the inside of the leg so as not to extend directly to the front leg portion for the same lpg, a closing flap for said opening secured tothe inner edge of the other leg portion, said flap being free at its top and curved outwardly from its top and then inwardly to the inner side'of the leg portion having the opening, and an 'ingarment comprising front tegral leg section 'at the lower end of said closing flap extending down the inside of the leg, said flap leg section extending forwardly past the inside of the leg and above the crotch to the cut back edge of the same leg front portion and extending rearwardly to,V the back of the leg at the inner edge of the back leg portion to which it is joined by a line ol' stitching extending 'from a point et the base oit' the right buttook to the lower ond ot the saine .leg portion, said opening eov eied by the flap terminating the top ot seid line ont stitching.

A. union garment having a perinanenti)v closed Crotch and piovided `with a leg portion out away to forni a seat opening extending frein the Waist line at Substantiellgvv a medial point to a point just below one buttoel, and a closing flap for said opening having a free outei` edge adapted to be detaohably secured to the garment, said In hand.

y i HAROLD B. HEILMANN.

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