US1204900A

US1204900A - Garment-maker's square.

Info

Publication number: US1204900A
Application number: US4933915A
Authority: US
Inventors: Mary B Picken
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1915-09-07
Filing date: 1915-09-07
Publication date: 1916-11-14
Anticipated expiration: 1933-11-14

Description

M. B. PICKEN.

GARMENT MAKER'S SQUARE.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 1. 1915.

1,204,900. Patented Nov. 14, 1916.

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GARMENT MAKER'S SQUARE.

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M.- B. PICKEN.

GARMENT MAKERS SQUARE.

N FILE Patented Nov. 14, 1916.

3 EEEEEEEEEEEE 3- MARY B. PICKEN, 0F SCRANTON, PENNSYLVANIA.

GARMENT-MAKERS EiQUABE.

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Specification of Letters Patent. 7

Application filed September'Y, 1915. Serial No. 49,339. 1

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, MARY B. PICKEN, a citizen of the United States, residing at Scranton, in the county of Lackawanna and State of Pennsylvania, have invented new and useful Improvements in Garment- Makers Squares, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to improvements in squares for use by garment makers in the drafting of patterns. 7

One object of the invention is to provide a square which can be-used in drafting patterns for either mens or womens garments.

Other objects of the invention are concerned more particularly with the drafting of patterns for womens garments and,b iefiy stated, are as follows: to provide a square by which foundation patterns or drafts for waists, skirts, or one piece dresses, or other garments or garment accessories may be made, which foundation patterns accurately conform to the lines of thefigure, are of the simplest possible character, are perfectly balanced, and are independent of any particular style or mode and hence are adapted to all styles, now existing, or which may be originated; to provide a square by means of which patterns may be produced for all figures and for all ranges of sizes; to provide a square by means of which the foundation patterns above mentioned require a minimum number of measurements for their production; to provide a square which, in the drafting of foundation patterns, requires a minimum number of manipulations or reversals and hence may be used with the greatest facility; to provide a square by which flat' designing may be carried out with absolute accuracy and great facility, such designing being based entirely on the foundation patterns above referred to and having for its purpose to produce special patterns, conforming to any particular style and embodying the fundamental lines and measurements of the foundation patterns; to provide a square by which all of the lines of the patterns, whether a foundation pattern or a special pattern produced by fiat designing are accurately determined and hence which entirely eliminates any necessity or desirability for free hand lines or curves.

The advantages of the invention, in addition to those advantages whi'ch'are directly attained by the fulfilment of the above stated objects, are as follows: Where several garments of different style or design are being made for one person, only a single foundation pattern is required for each kind of garment, e. g. waist or skirt, and with this foundation. pattern as a base, the patterns for all the various styles or designs desired may be produced. The foundation patterns for a particular person may be used .mum degree of worker effort. Patterns conforming to any particular style may be produced by a novice or a worker having no )articula'r skill which will be as accurate in their lines and proportions as any patterns produced by experts and necessarily by them, under existing 'methods. The use of the present square for fiat designing renders it altogether unnecessary to use a model or form as a device for working out a particular design; and designing, as practised by the use of the present square, may .be performed with greater accuracy and facility and in less time thanwhere it is practised by means'of a model or form. Owing to the accuracy of the lines and proportions'of the foundation patterns, it is altogether unnecessaryto resort to fitting in order to insure of an accurate fit of the garn'ient upon the person for whom itis designed. Owing to the small number of measurements required and the simplicity of the foundation patterns the chances of error in making such patterns are negligible and the manner of using the square for the purposes stated may be readily understood, even by persons of limited mental training or capacity.

In the accompanying drawings wherein the figures are drawn to scale, I have shown an embodiment of the invention and also certain patterns made thereby. v

In the said drawings: Figures 1 and 2 are elevations showing opposite sides of the square; Figs. 3 and 4 are views showing foundation patterns for a waist and a skirt Patented Nov. 14:, 1916.

inches long.

of the long arm of the square, termed for convenience the long arm curve is of convex form and the curve of the short arm, termed for convenience the short arm curve is also convex. The two curves merge into a concave connecting curve which extends across the angle formed by the arms. The several curves above separately described and identified, are, in fact, components of a single compound curve extending without interruption, from one end of the square to the other. An important characteristic of the short arm curve is that it is continued until it joins the outer end of the straight edge of the short arm of the square. The purposes for which the short arm curve is thus formed will be explained in detail hereinafter.

The essential structural characteristics of the compound curve are that the highest point of the convex long arm curve is located slightly beyond the center of the long arm and nearer to its outer end than its inner end; the highest point of the convex short arm curve is located at a distance from the outer end of the short arm approximately one-fourth of the length of said arm; both of said highest points are higher than any points of the concave intermediate curve along lines thereof adjoining the respective arms; the inner portions of the convex curves imperceptibly merge with or form extremities of the concave curve; and the concave curve has every point thereof closer to the straight edge of the square than ordinates'or datum lines (see lines XX and YY in Fig. 2) parallel to said straight edges and tangent to the highest points of the long and short arm curves.

7 The square is provided with scales along each of its arms and on both of its faces. In the embodiment shown there are eight scales in all, two along each side of both arms, and these scales are calibrated respectively, for full inches, and halves, thirds, fourths, fifths, sixths, sevenths, and eighths of an inch; The full inch scale and the scale of halves, fifths and sevenths of an inch are arranged on that face of the square which, for convenience, is designated and marked Upper side, the scales of full and half inches being arranged along the long arm and the scales of fifths and sevenths being arranged along the short arm. The

scale of thirds, fourths, sixths and eighths of I an inch are arranged on that face of the square which, for convenience, is designated side or the other of the square is not arbitrary but is selected to minimize the number of reversals of the square which may be required in the drafting of a particular foundation pattern. To illustrate, the back neck curve of the foundation waist pattern (Fig. 3) is taken from a point E located on the back neck foundation line at a distance of one sixth of the neck measure from the main foundation line and connects the said point with a definitely located point on the main foundation line. In this case the scale of sixths which is used to locate the point E is on that side of the square which is uppermost for the drafting of the back neck curve. In like manner when any other curve is drawn from a point located at some fractional part of a measurement along a particular line, the scale which is used in locating the said point will, in nearly all instances, be on that side of the square which is uppermost for the drafting of the said curve. In this way there is no occasion for reversing the square after locating on the pattern a point from which a curve is to be drawn and before drawing the said curve.

The compound curve which defines the in ner margin of the square is of such extent and outline that there is some one definite point in its length which may serve as the invariable starting point for the drafting of one of the foundation pattern curves. Stated otherwise, every curve of a foundation pattern may be started at some definite and invariable point along the compound curve of the square. The starting points for the various curves of the foundation patterns are definitely marked and distinguished on the two faces of the square. Thus, on the upper side of the square, reading from the end of the long arm to the end of the short arm, the starting points in the compound curve are indicated first by an arrow and thereafter by the symbols in alphabetical order, (66L to 22. On the lower side of the square, reading from the end of the short arm to the end of the long arm, the starting points are indicated by the symbols in alphabetical order, a to s.

Vith the exception of certain armhole curves for foundation sleeve patterns (which are drafted by means of curvilinear slots, marked on the upper side of the square Front curve and Back curve and on the lower side Reverse front curve and Reverse back curve) there are twenty-six principal curves for the several principal foundation patterns. The identity of these curves, the portions of the square along which they are drawn and the starting points therefor are indicated by the following table in which maximum curve lengths are given, the symbols first enumerated in indicating the several curve lengths are the starting points for the curves, the symbols enume 'ated are those which are on the uppermost face of the square for the drawing of a particular curve, and the pattern to which the curve relates is indicated by the appropriate word Waist, Skirt, Sleeve, etc, as the case may be.

(1) Back armhole curve (waist) it to 22'.

(2) Front neck curve (waist) .22 to cm. (3) Collar and cuff curve for adults, ss to (a) Front armhole curve (waist) jj to it.

(5) Collar and cuff curves for children, ZZ to 252?. i

((3) Back neck curve (waist) 7' to m.

(7) Lower armhole curve (sleeve) mm to 7'7.

(8) Front shoulder curve (waist) 12 to s.

(9) Back shoulder curve (waist) mm to J (10) Front hip curve for pronounced hips (skirt) 76713 to ca.

(11) Back hip curve hips (skirt) a to 'u.

(12) Front waist line (waist) m to w.

(13) Prominently curved under arm line (waist) mm to (ll) Center front line of close fitting garments (waist) tto Z.

(15) Outside line of collar (coat) 6 to Z.

(16) Elbow to wrist curve (sleeve) 95 to act.

(17) Lower outside wrist to elbow curve (sleeve) t to 70.

(18) St'aight under arm line (waist) if to (L0,.

(19) Back hip curves for straight or narrow hips (skirt) as to g.

(20) Outside curve (sleeve) 3/ to Z.

(21) Upper under arm curve (sleeve) 5 to for pronounced (22) Extension more prominent hip curves (waist or coat) 9 to .r.

(23) Extension straighter hip curves in a maximum curve length measured between the points 88 and curves at to 7 are in a maximum curve length measured between the points and e; curves 8 to 17 are in a maximum curve length measured between the points I; to dd; and the remain ing curves are in a maximum curve length measured between the points 1" and 2 with the exception of the outside sleeve curve (20), the curve length for which extends over nearly the whole of the long arm curve, being measured between the points Z and y.

Referring to the above table (and identifying the pattern curves by the ordinals applied thereto in said table). The following pattern curves are complementary to insure the blending of the pattern lines into one another and the lines of the figure-13 and 18, 10 and 11, 19 and 2-1-, and 22 and 23; and the following curve lengths of the square are alternatives for the same pattern curve is]; to ee (10) and veto s, (2%) both being for the front hip curves (skirt) the former where the hips are large or pronounced and the latter where the hips are small or slightly curved, and n to u (11) and am to gg, (19) both being for back hip curves, (skirt) the former where the hips are large or pronounced and the latter where the hips are small or slightly curved. It will also be noted that the two armhole curves, (waist) front and back (1) are difien ently formed and are drawn along different curve lengths, the former being drawn along the curve length to at and the latter along the curve length it to This assures of the accurate formation and fit of the armholes and of the perfect balance of the armhole curves with relation to one another and to the curves touching thereon, specifically, the front shoulder curve (8), the back shoulder curve (9), and the two complementary under arm waist lines or curves and (18).-

The pattern curves above enumerated are used in the principal foundation patterns and are the total number of curves which are used in such patterns. They are, moreover, perfect as regards their form and their relation to one another; and the curve lengths of the square by which the patterns are produced have such outline and extent that pattern curves may be drawn not only for average or an average range of measurements but also for unusually large or unusually small measurements. Therefore, in drafting a foundation pattern, Whatever may be the measurements therefor, it is altogether unnecessary to make any of the curves by free hand, to use free hand lines in adjusting or relating the curves to one another, or in fact to make or in any way depend upon any free hand lines whatever. Moreover, every single curve of the pattern may be produced in one operation by some single corresponding curve length of the square. These results are due to the form and length of the curve and of the square. In fact the length of the long arm of the square is dictated by the two necessities, first, of adapting the square to unusually large measurements and, second, of making possible the requisite outline and extent of the long arm curve.

The compound curve of the square has already been described in a general. way as regards its length and outline. It may, however, be described more specifically or definitely, reference being had to Fig. of the drawings, (which, as above stated, is drawn to scale) by setting forth the length of the several abscissae extending perpendicularly from ordinates or datum lines XX and YY (parallel to the straight edges of the square and tangential to the highest points of the short and long arm curves, respectively) to the definite points enumerated in the following table and lo cated at intervals of approximately an inch:

From YY in terms of inches to y is 1.57 l: is 1.78 Z q is 1.83 m is 1.80 n is 1.70 0 is p 1.27 g s 1' 1s .(0 Point midway between 1" and s is s is .25 Point mid 'ay between 3 and f is .11 t is .01 Point midway between t and u is .0 u is 3 Point midway between i! and o is .10 'u is .20 Point midway between a and w is .33 w is 18 Point midway between '11 and .r is .65 a; is .82 Point midway between a? and g is 1.01 7 is 1.21 Point midway between y and z is 1.41 .2 1.01 From XX in terms of inches to 0. is 1.78 Z) is .90 c is .28 (Z is .02 c is .01 Point midway between 0 and f is .12 is .31 Point midway between f and g is .52 g is .7 5 it is .88 '21 is .58

For the principal foundation. patterns, waist, sleeve, and skirt, but sixteen measurements, in all, are required, the neck and armhole measures for the waist being also used for the collar and sleeve, respectively,

and the hand measure for the sleeve being also used for the cuffs. The foundation waist measurements, of which there are eight are as followsz-neck, bust, waist, width of chest, width of back, front, length of back, center back depth and armhole. For the foundation sleeve pattern there are three measurements, the armhole (same as for waist), inside and hand. For the foundation skirt pattern there are six measure ments, viz: waist, hip, dart, front length, side length, and back length.

Figs. 3 and at illustrate foundation waist and skirt patterns, respectively. In these figures the heavy lines are the pattern lines and the light lines are the foundation lines (which are used for locating points). The

- pattern lines are identified by the numerals employed in the table of pattern curves hereinbefore given.

To illustrate an instance of the manner of using the square, the following explanation of the making of a foundation waist pattern is given: Assume a sheet of drafting paper 32x36. lVith the upper side of the square up, the long arm one-half an inch from the right edge of the sheet and the short arm nine inches from the top, a light vertical line (called the foundation line) is drawn for the full length of the long arm of the square and another light foundation line (called the back neck line) is drawn along the short arm toward the left for a distance of three or four inches. Points A, B, C and D are then located on the foundation line, point A being marked one-half an inch from the top of the foundation line; point B the center back depth (assume seven inches) below A; point C the length of the back (assume fifteen inches) below A; and point D one-third of the center back depth above B. To locate point D reverse the square (so that its lower side will be up) and with the corner of the square on B and the long arm extending upwardly on the foundation line, located 7 on the scale of thirds, marking the point thus located, D, on the foundation line. The point E for the back neck curve is then located on the back neck line by measuring (on the scale of sixths) one-sixth of the neck measure (assume thirteen inches) from the foundation line. lVith the lower side of the square still up the back neck curve (6) is drawn by placing the point j of the square on E of the pattern with the curve of the square coinciding with A and by drawing a heavy line along the curve from E to A, the line so drawn being the back neck curve of the pattern. The next step is to draw the third foundationline (the bust line). Reversing the square (bringing the upper side up),

' inches.

place the short arm pointing upwardlyon the foundation line and the corner of the square on B. The first line is drawn to the left one-half of the bust measurement, (assume thirty-six inches) measured along the scale of halves plus two inches and, in this case, has a length of twenty inches. The outer termination of the bust line is marked F. lVith the square in the same position, locate on the bust line and mark point G one-half the width of the back (assume thirteen and onehalf inches) plus onefourth inch to the left of B, point G thus being, in this case, seven inches to the left of B. Point H is then located and marked by placing the short arm of the square (upper side still up) on the bust line projecting toward the right and the corner of the square on G and measuring along the scale of halves on the long arm the length 'of one-half the armhole measure (assume fifteen inches) and G and H are then connected by a light foundation line.

Reversing the square (bringing the lower side up) point G is located on the bust line one-eighth of the armhole measure to the left of G, the location of the point Gr being obtained by placing the short arm of the square on the bust line projecting toward the left and the corner of the square on G and by locating 15 on the scale of eighths. Point I is next located on the line GH one eighth of the armhole measure below H, the short arm of the square (lower side still up) being placed on the line GH with the corner of the square at H and the long arm projecting toward the left, point I being taken at 15 (in the eX- ample assumed) on the scale of eighths. With the square in the same position a light foundation line is drawn from H toward the left for three or four inches and on this foundation line, point J one-eighth of the armhole measure to the left of H, is located. The front shoulder foundation line is then drawn eight or ten inches diagonally upward from J, the square (lower side still up) being placed with its corner at D and the straight edge of the long arm touching J.

Reversing the square (bringing the upper side up) the back shoulder patterncurve (9) is drawn, by placing the square so that point mm thereon is at E of the pattern and the edge of the curve touches I, and by drawing a heavy line from E, through I and about an inch to the left of I. Point K is then located five-eighths of an inch to the left of I on the back shoulder curve. The length of the back shoulder must now be measured to determine the length of the front shoulder. The distance from E to K (for the back shoulder length) is, in the example assumed, five and three-fourths The front shoulder should be onehalf an inch less than this; therefore, point L for the front shoulder curve is located on the front shoulder foundation line five and one-fourth inches to the left of J. Next, with the straight edge of the long arm touching G and J, point J is located one-half an inch below J. lVith the lower side of the square up, the front shoulder curve (8) is now drawn from L to J the point a of the square being placed on L of the pattern and the curve of the square touching J Point M is then located on the front shoulder foundation line one-sixth of the neck measure to the left of L and thereupon the center front line (both pat tern and foundation) is drawn for the full length of the straight edge of the long arm from point M, this line touching F. Point N for the length of front is then located on the center front line; in this case, the

square is positioned with its long arm on the center front line and its short arm projecting toward the right with its straight edge above M for a distance of one-sixth of the neck measure (it being necessary to subtract from the front length one-sixth of the neck measure owing to the front measure having beentaken from the prominent bone at the back of the neck). Point N is then located on the center front line at a point on the long arm distant from the cor ner of the square by the front length (assume twenty-one and one-half inches) plus one inch.

For the front neck pattern curve with the square lower side up, locate point 0 on the center front line one-fourth of the neck measure below M, (in this case, opposite 13 on the scale of fourths). Thereafter the point P is located on the center front line two and one-half inches below the point 0. The chest point Q is then located by placing the square upper side up, withits short arm 011 the center front line, its corner at P and its long arm extending toward the right, and by then marking point Q at a point on the long arm onehalf the chest measure (assume fourteen inches) plus one-half inch. The front neck pattern curve (2) is then drawn by placing the square, upper side still up, so that the arrow head near the point 22 touches O and the short arm curve touches L and by drawing a heavy line from O to L. The front and back armhole pattern curves are then drawn. For the front armhole curve (4) the square, upper side still up is placed with its point y'j five-eighths of an inch above the J and its curve touching J Q, and G and a heavy curved line is then drawn from J', through Q, to G. For the back armhole curve (1), the square, upper side still up is positioned with the arrowhead near its point 2 2- on G and with its curve touching K and a heavy curved line is then drawn Point S is located on the foundation under arm line four inches below R; point U is located on the back waist line one inch to the right of R; and point V is located on the back waist line one inch to the left of R. Point T, for the center back line is located on the back waist line threefourths of an inch to the left of C. The

straighter under arm pattern line (18) is then drawn between U and G the square being placed, upper side up, with its point 7; on point U of the pattern, its short arm extendingtoward the right and its curve touching G The prominently curved under arm pattern line (13)v is then drawn, between G and V, the square, upper side still up, being placed with its point mm on point V of the pattern, its short armextending to the right and its curve touching G The center back pattern line is then drawn along the straight edge of the square frompoint A. through T, and four incl es below T, its termination being marked WV; The front waist pattern curve (12) is then drawn, the square being placed with its lower side up, its short arm at the right and pointing downwardly, and with its point 772 on point V of the pattern and its curve touching N. Point X is then located on the center front line. four inches below N. S and X are then connected by aheavy pattern curve in the same manner as V and N-that is with the short arm of the square at the right and pointing down wardly, the point m of the square on S and the curve touching X; This last curve forms the outside line of the extension or skirt part of the waist. The extension hip pattern curves are now drawn, the more prominent (22) between V and S and the less prominent (23) between U and S.

For the more prominent extension hip curves, the square with its lower side up and its short arm pointing toward the right is placed with its point q on the point V of the pattern and its curve touchmg S. For the less prominent or straight hip curve, the square is reversed and with its upper side up and its short arm pointing toward the left is placed with its point ii on the point U of the pattern and its curve touching S. r

lVhere the waist has no extension or skirt part points-X, S and V and lines N-X, VS, U-S and TWV are not required.

Plain waists and sleeves may be made directly from the various foundation patterns therefore. On the other hand if it is desired that a garment shall be made in accordance with some particular design or style, a pattern therefor may be produced by flat designing and in such cases the special patterns may, by the use of the square be developed from the foundation patterns." In this way the foundation patterns serve for every style of garment and may be reserved for future use, regardless of what styles may thereafter come into vogue. It will therefore be apparent that the special patterns which may be produced by flat designing from the foundation patterns are practically without limit. However, as an instance of a special pattern de veloped by flat designing from a. foundation pattern, reference is had to Fig. 5 which shows a special pattern of simple and elementary character, the same being for a short sleeved kimono waist and being developed from the foundation waist pattern shown in Fig. 3. In Fig. 5 the shaded areas indicate the foundation pattern and the lines in heavy black and the dotted line are the lines of the short sleeved kimono 'aist pattern.

The manner of developing the kimono waist pattern by flat designing from the foundation waist pattern will probably be best understood from the following direc tions:-Assume a sheet of paper 27 inches wide and &5 inches long. Lay the plain foundation waist pattern on the paper in the manner shown in Fig. 5 (a) that is, so that the center front line is on one long edge of the papeand the center back line is one and one-half inches from this edge at the waist line. Also, keep the back neck curves together at the shoulder points, and ,pin the patterns to the paper securely. lVith the pattern correctly placed, measure out onehalf inch to the left of point U of the back partof the foundation waist pattern and locate point A on the paper; then locate point 13 the same distance from point V of the front part of the pattern. Next fold the paper so asto bring points A and B in coincidence back to back; pin these points together by inserting a pin through A and on through 13 and then crease the paper at the fold so as to obtain the shoulder line. The paper will thenappear as shown in Fig. 5 (b). After the work has proceeded this far, it is necessary to locate points so as to outline the sleeve and the side lines of the kimono. Thus with the short arm of the square, upper side up, along the fold and the long arm touching the under arm line of the foundation pattern at a point on the .of this line E square indicating one-half the armhole measure, draw a line from the fold along the long arm to this point and mark it C Turn the square so that the. short arm is on the line just drawn and its corner is at C anddraw a line along the long arm one-half the inside sleeve length, or the length of sleeve desired, marking the end of this line D Turn the square again so that its corner is at l) and its short arm is 011 line (*-D and dra a line along the long arm to fold on the paper, marking the end Locate D one-half inch above D on line D".lil Next, to get the length of the sleeve on the fold measure two inches to the left of 11 and locate E Connect E and l)" with a curved line, placing the square, lower side up, so that its point .2 is at E and the edge of its curve touches I Then, locate F midway between points Q and l) on the line C D and connect D and F with a straight line. Finally, draw the curved under arm line, placing the square upper side up, so that its point W is at F and the edge of the long arm curve touches A then extend the under arm line by locating S one-half inch to the left of S and connect A and S in the same way as points U and S were connected in making the foundation waist draft. After these lines are drawn, trace the draft as follows: Begin at S and trace to A from A trace through F to D and on to E Then open out the paper and trace the new front waist line NB and the new back waist line A T. Next out out the draft as follows: around the neck from A to the center front line; then from X, along the bottom of the front part of S; from S along the traced line to B and to E from E to D from 1) through F and A", to

S and then along the bottom line of the ack part of the pattern to the edge of the paper. Finally, remove the foundation waist pattern.

In connection with the subject of flat de signing it may be observed that for every curve which may be needed. in working out a particular design (with the exception of infrequently used arcs of circles ranging from a quarter to a whole circle) there is, at some portion. of the curved edge of the square, a length by which that curve may be reproduced In order that the dressmaker may be able to make free use of the square for flat designing a certain degree of famili arity with its use in making foundation patterns and flat design patterns of elementary character must be attained but such famili arity is attained very readily and, when attained, the dressmaker will know intuitively what parts of the curve to use in drafting particular curves for special patterns.

F or the drafting of foundation patterns certain distances and measurements for the location of points and foundation lines are arbitrary and must be learned, .but these distances and measurements may be learned very readily; and, once learned, the dressmaker can draft foundation patterns in from three to five or six minutes, according to the degree of her natural quickness and skill. The compound curve of the square may also be used in drafting the curve. of mens garments and the square is tl'lQl'GfOi'B useful to tailor: as well as dressmakers. As the curves for mens garments are. comparatively few and simple and as the gen eral procedure will be much the same as in the instances given, it is deemed unnecessary to submit specific examples of this use of the square. It may be observed, however, that, so far as I am aware, no existing garment makers square adapted for the drafting of patterns for both mens and W0 mens garments.

Having fully described my invention, I claim 1. A garment makers square having a long arm and a short arm, the length of the latter being included twice within the length of the former, the square having a compound curve extending continuously from the extremity of the long arm to'the extremity of the short arm and continued to meet the straight edge of the short arm, the portions of said curve adjacent and throughout nearly the whole length of the long and short arms being convex, with the highest point of the long arm curve slightly be yond the center and nearer the outer end thereof and the highest point of the short arm curve distant from the outer end of the short arm by approximately one-fourth of the length of the short arm, and the intermediate portion of said compound curve which extends between and connects the long and short arm ortions thereof being concave, a portion 0 the convex curve extending from the outer end of the short arm and a contiguous portion of the concave in-= termediate curve serving for the drafting of complemental arm-hole pattern curves and being used in participation with adjoining portions of the compound curve for the drafting of other pattern curves, the concave curve having every point thereof closer to the straight edges of the square than datum lines parallel to said straight edges and tangent to the highest points of the convex portions of the compound curve.

2. A garment makers square having a long arm and a short arm, the length of the latter being included twice within the length of the. former, the square having a compound curve extending continuously from the extremity of the long arm to the extremity of the short arm and continued to meet the straight edge of the short arm, the portions of said curve adjacent and throughout nearly the Whole length of the long and short arms being convex, with the highest point of the long arm curve slightly beyond the center and nearer the outer end thereof and the highest point of the short arm curve distant from the outer end of the short arm by approximately one-fourth of the length of the short arm, and the intermediate portion of said compound curve which extends betweenand connects the long and short arm portions'thereof being concave, a portion of the convex curve extending from the outerend of the short arm, and a contiguous portion of the concave intermediate curve serving for the drafting of complemental armhole pattern curves and being used in participation with adjoining portions of the compound curve for the drafting of other pattern curves, the concave curve having every point thereof closer to the straight edges of the square than datum lines parallel to said straight edges and tangent to the highest points of the convex portions of the compound curve, the square having on both of its faces and throughout its length definitely located and identified points on the compound curve from which pattern curves may be started.

A garment makers square having a long arm and a short arm, the length of the latter being included twice within the length of the former, the square having a compound curve extending continuously from the extremity of the long arm to the extremity of the short arm and continued to meet the straight edge of the short arm, the portions of said curve adjacent and throughout nearly the Whole length of the long and short arms being convex, with the highest point of the long arm curve slightly beyond the center and nearer the outer end thereof and the highest point of the short arm curve.

a waist pattern and being used in participa tion with adjoining portions of the curve for the drafting of other pattern curves and the concave portion of said compound curve serving for the front arm-hole curve of a waist pattern and being similarly used in participation with adjoining portions of the compound curve for the drafting of other pattern curves, the concave curve having very point thereof closer to the straight edges than datum lines parallel to said straight edges of the square and tangent to the highest points of the convex portions of the compound curve.

4. A garment makers square havlng a long arm and a short arm and having a compound curve extending continuously from the extremity of the long arm to the extren' ity of the short arm and continued to meet the straight edge of the short arm, the pertions of said curve adjacent and throughout nearly the whole length of the long and short arms being convex, with the highest point of the long arm curve slightly beyond. the center and nearer the outer end thereof and the highest point of the short arm curre distant from the outer end of the short arm by approximately one-fourth the length of the short arm, and the intermediate portion of said compound curve which extends between and connects the long and short arm portions thereof being concave, the portion of the curve at the outer end of the short arm serving for the back arm-hole curve of a waist pattern and being used in participation with adjoining portions of the curve for the drafting of other pattern curves and the concave portion of said curve serving for the front arm-hole curve of a Waist pat tern and being similarly used in participation with adjoining portions of the curve for the drafting of other pattern curves, the concave curve having every point thereof closer to the straight edges of the square than datum lines parallel to said straight edges and tangent to the highest points of the convex portions of the compound curve the long arm having an extent of twentyseven inches to provide for the requisite extent and outline of the curve portion adjacent said long arm as and for the purpose set forth.

A garment makers square having a long arm and a short arm and having a compound curve extending continuously from the extremity of the long arm to the extremity of the short arm and continued to meet toe straight edge of the short arm. the portions of said. curve adjacent and throughout nearly the Whole length of the long andlshort arms being convex, with the highest point of the long arm curve slightly beyond the center and nearer the outer end thereof and the highest point of the short. arm curve distant from the outer end of the short arm by ap n'oximately onefourth the length. of the short arm, and the intermediate portion of said compound curve which extends between and connects the long and short arm portions thereof being concave, the portion of the curve at the outer end of the short arm serving for the. back arm-hole curve of a waist pattern and being used in participation with adjoining portions of the curve for the draft-' ing of other pattern curves, and the cons cave portion of said curve serving for the front arm-hole curve of a waist pattern and being similarly used in participation with adjoining portions of the curve for the drafting of other pattern curves, the concave curve having every point thereof closer to the straight edge of the square than datum lines parallel to said straight edges and tangent to the highest points of the convex portions of the compound curve, the long arm having an extent of twenty-seven inches to provide for the requisite extent and outline of the curve portion adjacent said long arm, as and for the purpose set forth, the square having on both of its faces and throughout its length definitely located and identified points on the compound curve from which pattern curves may be started.

6. A garment makers square having a long arm and a short arm and having a compound curve extending continuously from the extremity of the long arm to the extremity of the short arm and continued to meet the straight edge of the short arm, the long arm having a length of twentyseven inches and the short arm having a length of twelve inches, the curve having the perpendicular distances between points approximately an inch apart throughout its extent and datum lines at right angles to one another, parallel to the straight edges of the square and tangent to the highest points of its convex long and short arm portions, as described in the table herein set forth.

7. A garment makers square having a long arm and a short arm and having a compound curve extending continuously from the extremity of the long arm to the extremity of the short arm, the said curve having a portion thereof adjoining the long arm convex from the outer end of the long arm throughout nearly the whole length of said arm, the long arm having an extent of twenty-seven inches to provide for the requisite extent and outline of the convex curve portion adjacent thereto and having the perpendicular distances between points approximately an inch apart on said curve and a line parallel to the straight edge of the long arm and tangent to. the highest point of its curve, as described in the table herein set forth.

8. A garment makers square having a long arm and a short arm and having a compound curve extending continuously from the extremity of the long arm to the extremity of the short arm and continued to meet the straight edge of the short arm, the portion of said curve throughout nearly the whole length of the short arm being convex and the intermediate portion of said curve adjacent the junction of the arms being concave, a portion of the convex curve extending from the outer end of the short arm, and a contiguous portion of the concave curve adjacent the junction of the arm serving for the drafting of complemental arm-hole pattern curves and being used in participation with adjoining portions of the compound curve for the drafting of other pattern curves.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto set my hand in presence of two subscribing Witnesses.

MARY B. PICKEN.

WVitnesses:

MARY E. COYLE, F. D. GIBsoN.

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Washington, D. 0.