US1183845A - Dressmaking system. - Google Patents

Description

E. Ai BENNETT.

DRESSMAKING SYSTEM.

vAPPLICATION FILED iULY 9, 1914.

THE COLUMBIA P LKNGORAPH CD.. WASHING'NJN. D. C.

A i ,C

EL13A`A. BENNETT, OF DEXTER, IOWA..

:DnEssMAKING SYSTEM.

Speccation of Letters Patent.

Patented May 23,1916.

Appiieation filed J'ny 9, Y1914..A seriaino. 850,038.Y

My invention relates to improvements in dressmaking systems so that any woman, without special instructions in dressmaking, can cut and t ladies and'ch'ildrens garments, and'at the same time insure a perfect lit. v

My object is to provide improvements in dressmaking systems lrequiringbut simple and inexpensiveapparatus for cutting and fitting the garment. I attain this object'fby the devices illustrated in the accompanying drawings, in which.: j

yFigure 1 shows one of the pattern strips of material, as used in my system, .with a front waist pattern'drawn thereon. Fig. 2 shows a similar strip of material with a backwa-ist pattern drawn thereon, and Fig. 3 shows another somewhat similar str ip of material, showing the method of cutting a sleeve of a garment by my system. Y

I have illustrated my method of cutting three patterns for a waist, namely the'front,

back and sleeve patterns, the method of cut- Y ting the sleeve pattern being the onewhich more fully illustrates the method and devices upon which I wish to obtain a patent. It is also to be understood that my method is not to be limited to the three patterns illustrated but may be applied to any patterns that may come within the scope of my invention. Y y n When it is desired to cut the three patterns for a waist, as just described, I lfirst provide three strips of paper or any other similar material, one for the front, about twenty inches wide and twenty-five inches long, provided with a horizontal line 10-11 about four inches from the top and extending from the center to the right hand edge of the paper (Fig. 1). I provide another strip for the back pattern, twenty inches wide and twenty-one inches long, with a horizontal line 12-13, extending from the center to the left hand edge and about six inches from the top (Fig. 2'). I provide a third striprfrom which a sleeve pattern is to be cut, about twenty inches wide and twenty-eight inches long7 and provided with a vertical, central line let- 15, and a horizontal line 16-17, about eight inches from -3 thetop-edge of said strip.

' Before attempting to draw the pattern l.

on the sheets that I have provided,`I meas-` ure a horizontal line across the chest, at the 'I i junction of the neck of the person, to whom the garment is to be fitted from outside shoulder point to outside shoulder point, and then measure one down the center front from the junction of the neck to the waist line, then one down the center of the shoulder and o ne from directly under the arm to the waist l1ne and one down the center of the back and one straight across the back,

approximately four inches below the neck. Y ,Y I also measure a horizontal line around the arm at the point where the lowest part of a sleeve joins the body of a waist. All measurements must be taken just as the garment is wanted to t. If some parts are wanted loose and others tight, the measurements must be taken that way. n

To draw a diagram of the front waist pattern, I take on the line 10-11 a distanceV equal to one-half of the line drawn across the chest at rthe junction ofthe neck.A It will thus be seen that I have formed on the strip of paper indicated in Fig. 1 a foundation, which corresponds to the vline drawn across the chest of the wearer to whom the garment is to be tted. It will be seen that other measurements may be transferred from thek wearer to the pattern, using the said line as a foundation. The right hand edge of the strip of paper from which the pattern is to be cut serves as a second foundation line, from which measurements may be taken, and corresponds to the line which is drawn down the center front from the junction of the neck to the waist line.

A point is taken above the line 10-11 at i L10,'which point is spaced from the right hand edgeof the paper in Fig. 1 a dis-kY tance equal to half the circumference of the neck at the junction with the head. The point 40 is spaced above the line 10-11 equal to the distance from the line drawn across ythe chest to the line drawn down the center shoulder. A curved line is then drawn from the point 40 downwardly toward theV line 10-11 and laterally toward the righthand edge of the paper. A point 41 is marked on the paper above the line 10-11 to the left of the point 40 a distance equal to the distance from the neckto the point of the shoulder.

The point 41 is c spaced above the line 1'0-11 a distance equal A -line is drawn from the to the distance from the line drawn across the chest upwardly to the point of the shoulder.y The difference in the distance Vfrom the point 41 to the line 10-11 and-the distancefrom the point 40k to the line 10-11 is the shoulder drop. A point 42 is marked onthe paper below and to `the left of the line 10-11 at a distance from the righthand edge of the paper equal tothe distance lbetween the line drawn down the center front' of the person to be fitted to the upper end vof the line under the arm.

The armscye is determined by the distance from the line drawn across the chest to the last described line. vA line is drawn from the point 42 almost substantially horizontally toward the righthand edge of the paper a .distance equal to half the 'distance from the point 42 to a line spaced verti-v cally downwardly from the point 10, or about two inches, and the line is then curved upwardly to the point 10. A point 43 is marked at the righthand edge of the paper at a distance below the line 10-11 equal to the distance from the line drawn across the chest-.t0 the waist line in front; Appoint 44 is marked onthe paper spaced from the righthand edge thereof, adistance equal to the distance from the center front along the waist line, to a line drawn downwardly underneath the arm, plus about four inches for fullness. The amount allowed for fullness may be varied as may be desired. Y

The point 44 .is located belowthe point 42 a distance equal to the length of the line drawn from under the arm to the waist line. l point 42 to the point 44 and from the point 44 to the kpoint 43. Thelast described line may be curved downwardly somewhat as desired.

The patternfor the back of the waist is obtained in a similar manner and there is measured on the line 12-13, beginning at the lefthand edge of the sheet, a distance equal to one-half the length of the line drawn straight across the back about four inchesy below Vthe neck, and the left hand edgeJ ofthe sheet of paper in Fig. 2 corresponds to the line drawn down the center of the back. For the purposes of the illustration, it is assumed that the measurement just made is equal to the length of the line 12-18.

On Fig. 2y I have indicated the lower end 1 shoulder is indicated at 49. The upper part of the center of the back of the neck is indicated at 50.

For drawing the sleeve pattern Ik have used a -strip of paper similar to that illustrated in Fig. 3, having a vertical line 14-15 and a horizontal line 16-17 thereon. I mark on the line 16-17 points 16 and 17, at equal distances from the line 14-15, having a space between them equal to the circum-v terns are then cut from the paper according to the outlines as shown by the dotted lines in Figs. 1 and 2. To form the top of the sleeve pattern I pin the front and back patterns together at under arm, with the front pattern at the right with its righthand edge parallel kwith the righthand edge vof the sleevepattern sheet. The fronty and back pattern are so placed on the sleeve pattern sheet that the lower end ofthe curved part of the'line 10-42 is at Vthe point 17 with the line 41-40 extending substantially horizontally toward the righthand edge of the sleeve patterntsheet, and the pain '46 on the back: pattern isradjacent to the point 42, while the line or edge 46-45 is along the line or edge 42-.44 A line is then drawn from the point 17 to the sleeve pattern sheet, or a point corresponding with the point 42 on the front pattern and is continued along the line 46-13 to a point at 24. The point at 24 is locatedV abovev the line 16-17 a distance equal to one-half the` distance from the point 46 to the point 49. A curved line is then drawn upwardly and inwardly to the point 1S. I then'unpin the waist pattern and place the front pattern with the lower part of the curved part of the line 10-46 over the point 16 of the line 16-17 and position the pattern so that the lower right rhand corner will be approximately two inches from the line 14-15. I then draw a line on the sleeve pattern sheet yfrom the point 16 upwardly following the outline of the line 10e-42 to a point 29, which is located above the line 16-17, the same distance as the point 24 and then remove the front and back pattern and draw a curved line from the point 29 to the point 18, a horizontal line' 30is drawn below the line 16-17 and the line 30 is spaced from the line 16-17 a distance equal to the distance from the line drawn around the arm to the hand. The length of the line 30 is determined by Ineasuring loosely around the hand. The lines 31 and 32 are drawn from the points 16 and 17 to the ends ,of the line 30. Half the hand measure plus one inch is placed on the lefthand side of the line 18-.15, and half the distance less one inch is placed on `the righthand side, as shown in Fig. 3.. This gives me the outline for the upper portion of the sleeve pattern and when dravvn as I have described and illustrated the pattern may then be cut out and the parts placed together in their proper relation to each other and a perfect it Will thus be obtained.

It is to be understood that the lines 30, 31 and 32 of the sleeve pattern are found in the usual vvay. y

Thus it Will be seen that I have obtained a very simple, practical and inexpensive method of cutting garments, Which can be readily understood by the average person.

What I claim is:

1. In a device of the class described, the method of laying out patterns comprising the superposing upon a strip of flexible material, having a vertical, central foundation line and a second line dravvn transversely thereto, near the top of said strip, of a front and a back pattern secured together and superposed on said strip with certain predetermined points in said patterns over certain predetermined points in certain portions of sald lines ascertained by measurement of the person litted, said front and back patterns vvhenthus superposed forming an outline from Which certain portions of a third may be taken.

2. In a device of the class described, the

method of laying out apattern comprising the superposing on a strip of flexible material having a vertical central foundation line and a second line drawn transversely thereto, near the top of said strip, of a front anda back pattern securedtogether and superposed on said strip, with certain predetermined points in said patterns over I gether in a garment.

Des Moines, Iowa, June 19, 1914.

' ELLA A. BENNETT. Witnesses:

ED. L. NoL'rE, S. S. Srr'rING.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for ve cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D. C.

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