US1045449A - Garment-fitter. - Google Patents

Garment-fitter. Download PDF

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Publication number
US1045449A
US1045449A US63378911A US1911633789A US1045449A US 1045449 A US1045449 A US 1045449A US 63378911 A US63378911 A US 63378911A US 1911633789 A US1911633789 A US 1911633789A US 1045449 A US1045449 A US 1045449A
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Prior art keywords
strips
strip
jacket
garment
pattern
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US63378911A
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Paul E Sobotker
David H Ackerman
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Individual
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Individual
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41HAPPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H1/00Measuring aids or methods
    • A41H1/02Devices for taking measurements on the human body

Definitions

  • PALE SOBOTKER, 0F JERSEY CITY, A1 ⁇ TD DAVID H. ACKERMAN, OF NEWARK, NEW JERSEY.
  • This ⁇ invention ⁇ relates to garment lit-ters of that class comprising a harness or jacket to ⁇ be worn by the person for whom the ⁇ garment isto be madel and upon which a sheet of pattern paper or other material is secured and suitably marked to form t-he pattern.
  • the ⁇ object of the invention is to provide a deviceoffsimple construction which may be readily donned and dotted and by the use of which an accurate pattern may be ob tained with the least possible delay, inconvenience ⁇ and annoyance.
  • Figure l is: a front1perspective-view ofa ⁇ garment fitting apparatus embodying our invention, showing the apparatusilin its operative position and illustratinga portion of the pattern paper applied thereto.
  • Fig.- 2 is a rear perspective view of ⁇ the apparatus.
  • Fig. 3 is a detailed section on a larger scale showing the manner of fasten-ing the pattern paper to the garment tter.
  • Fig. Lisa detailedlsectional view of oneV of the delinea-ting strips ofthejacket.
  • Fig. ⁇ 5 is a detailed sectional view showing the manner of connectingfthe intersecting strips of the jacket.
  • Fig. 6 is a detailed perspective view of the means fastening the jacket upon the person.
  • the neck band l may be a single strip
  • VVhenthe pattern paper is placed-over these strips any convenient marking material may be run over the paper with a light ⁇ pressure so as to trace thereon lines fol lowingthe location of said ribs and thereby ⁇ distinctly denote the location of the seam and the amount of the material to beal- ⁇ lowed therefor in cutting the garment.
  • arm'hole bands-7 which are similar in construction to the neck band l and serve to determinethe location and size of the arm holes needed for the particular gar ment bei-ng designed.
  • Side seam strips 8 are secured to and depend from the arm ⁇ hole bandl 7 at or near the lowest point thereof and servetomark the location of yth'e side seams of the garment.
  • a strip 9 Secured to the shoulder seam strip 3, between the ends of the same, is a strip 9 which extends over the shoulder and down both'-the back and front ⁇ of the jacket, as clearly shown.
  • An ⁇ intermediate back seam strip l0 isshown inthe drawings as located between the side strip 8 and the strip 9, and other strips j may-beemployed if desired for anyparticular garment, ⁇ while some ⁇ of the strips shown may be omitted Without involving a departure from the invention.
  • the strip 11, indicating the location of the front dart is located between the side strip 8 and the front portion of the strip 9, and a supporting strip 12 is secured to the upper end of the dart strip 11 and extends over the shoulder, being secured to the shoulder strip 8 and terminating at the back of the jacket below the shoulder strip.
  • Strips 13, similar to the strip 12, are arranged transversely to extend around the body and are secured to the several upright strips at the points where they intersect the same, as clearly shown.
  • These several strips 13 and the neck band are provided at their front ends with hooks 14 adapted to engage retaining loops 15 secured to the inner side of the central front strip 4, as shown in Fig. 6.
  • These retaining loops are preferably constructed of a sheet metal plate fixedly secured to the strip 4 'by rivets or similar devices 16 and are formed at opposite sides of the rivets with subst-antially vertical slots 17 through which the hooks 14 are engage-d so as to iit around the outer rims or edges of the plates and thereby hold the transverse or horizontal strips and the neck band to the central front strip and consequently close and fasten the jacket upon the person.
  • strips 18 Across the back of the jacket extend strips 18, the outer ends of which are secured to the arm hole bands 7, and the strips 12 are secured to these strips 18 as clearly shown in Fig. 2.
  • Similar strips 19 are provided at the front of the jacket and extend from the arm hole bands to the central front strip and are provided with hooks engaging the fastening plates on said strips as will be readily understood.
  • Strips 20 similar to the strips 12, 13, 18 and 19 are provided at the front of the jacket and extend from the neck band downwardly between the strips 4 and 9, as clearly shown in Fig. 1.
  • the several strips of our jacket are all of the same material so that when the jacket is placed upon the body and fastened at the front, the elasticity of the strips will cause them to fit closely to the body and accurately and positively dene the location of the several seams.
  • Thisl lighter strips serve to prevent slipping of the delineating strips and thereby assure accuracy in the pattern.
  • the several strips are secured at their points of intersection by means of studs consisting of posts 21 inserted ⁇ through the strips from the rear and caps 22 fitted over the said posts and having a binding engagement therewith, the posts and caps forming studs which will perforate the pattern material 23 and hold the same in place as it is applied to the jacket, as indicated in Fig. 1.
  • a sheet of the pattern material is placed against the jacket and drawn smoothly thereover and is se- 'along the central front line.
  • socket clasps 24 adapted to engage the studs formed by the posts 21 and caps 22, and to prevent tearing of the pattern sheet while applying the same to the acket
  • a washer or cushion 25 of rubber or similar material is secured to the said socket clasp and projects therefrom so as to extend over the outer side of the pattern sheet as clearly shown in Fig. 1.
  • the free lower ends of the strips are drawn in to the waist and hips by belts of any convenient form, one of which is indicated at 27, the measurements for the top of the skirt being thus obtained.
  • the person to be fitted dons the jacket in the same manner as a vest or coat and fastens it by engaging the hooks 14 in The elastic quality of the jacket will now cause it to conform snugly to the figure and the pattern material drawn smoothly thereover will necessarily accu- ;rately follow the lines of the figure.
  • the perforations formed in the pattern material tern sheet is being applied thereto.
  • the fastening between the transverse strips and the closing strip permits a limited play of the parts so that twisting of the strips may be overcome and they Ymay loe readily shifted vto accommodate slight irregularities in the figure.
  • the transverse strips on both sides vof this central front strip are engaged in the loops on the under side of the front strip, distortion of the front strip is obviated and said strip will lie close to the body so that the central front line of the body will be accurately located on the pattern and the pattern material will not be forced away from the body by the fastening.
  • the device will give the actual measurements of the figure and may be used by an unskilled person with accurate and reliable results.
  • An apparatus for the purpose set forth comprising a jacket composed solely of in tersecting elastic strips, and means at the intersecting points of the strips for joining the strips, said means also serving to secure pattern material to the strips and locate pattern lines on said material.
  • An apparatus for the purpose set forth comprising a jacket of intersecting elastic strips, studs inserted through said strips at their several points of intersection, and clasps adapted to fit over said studs and thereby secure pattern material to the jacket.
  • An apparatus for the purpose set forth comprising a jacket of intersecting elastic strips, studs inserted through the strips at their several points of intersection, cla-s s adapted to fit over said studs and there y secure pattern material to the ⁇ jacket, and flexible washers carried by said clasps to bear upon the pattern material.
  • An apparatus for the purpose set forth comprising a jacket of intersecting elastic strips, posts inserted through said strips at their several points of intersection, caps tted on the outer ends of said posts whereby the elastic strips are secured together, andl socket clasps fitting over said caps to secure pattern material to the jacket.
  • An apparatus for the purpose set forth comprising a jacket ofV intersecting elastic strips fitting the contour of the body, certain of said strips following the seam lines of a garment and provided on their outer faces with three or more parallel longitudinal delineating ribs to indicate on pattern material secured over the ribs the lines of and side allowances for seams.
  • a jacket for the purpose set forth comprising an elastic delineating strip, a plurality of elastic retaining strips disposed at an angle to the delineating strip on both sides thereof, fastening plates on the inner face of t-he delineating strip, and members on the ends of the retaining strips engaging said plates, all of said members and plates lying between the side edges of the delineating strip.
  • An apparatus for the purpose set forth comprising an elastic jacket having a central vertical strip and other strips meeting the same at an angle thereto, plates secured to the inner face of the central strip provided with approximately longitudinal slots near their side edges, and hooks on the ends of the meeting strips engaging said slots, the said hooks when in engagement with the plates lying between the edges of the delineating strip.

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Biophysics (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Professional, Industrial, Or Sporting Protective Garments (AREA)

Description

P. E. SOBOTKER D. H. AGKERMAN.
GARMENT PITTER. APPLICATION FILED JUNE 17, 1911.
1,045,449. Patented 11011.26, 1912.
2 SHEETS-SHEET 1.
'lill Illy, q. I", 111'" P. E. SOBTKER & D. H. AGKERMAN.
GARMENT FITTER.
APPLICATION FILED JUNE 17, 1911.
1,045,449. Patented 11017.26, 1912.
2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.
J0 I5 j@ @9i/hmmm COLUMBIA PLANOGRAPH c0..wAsHINOTDN. D. C.
PALE. SOBOTKER, 0F JERSEY CITY, A1\TD DAVID H. ACKERMAN, OF NEWARK, NEW JERSEY.
Specification of Letters'Patent.
v Patented Nov.' 26, 1912.
Applicationled June 17, 1911.` Serial No. 633,789.
To all .whom fit may concern:
Beitknown that we, PAUL E. SOBOTKER and DAVID. H. ACKERMAN, citizens of the United States, residing, at Jersey City, in thewcounty of Hudson and State of New J ersey,.and Newark, in the county of Essex and State oflNew Jersey, respectively, have invented certain new and useful Improve mentsin Garment-Fitters; and we do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable othersskilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.
This `invention `relates to garment lit-ters of that class comprising a harness or jacket to `be worn by the person for whom the` garment isto be madel and upon which a sheet of pattern paper or other material is secured and suitably marked to form t-he pattern.
The` object of the invention is to provide a deviceoffsimple construction which may be readily donned and dotted and by the use of which an accurate pattern may be ob tained with the least possible delay, inconvenience `and annoyance.
Other objects of the invention areto provide improvedmeans for holding the pattern material to the jacket or harness, as well as to simplify and improve the con struction of the jacket itself, and to provide simple and easily operated means for fastening the j acketor harnessupon the person.`
In the accompanying drawings a garment fitter embodying our improvements is illustrated adapted for use upon a female figure, but'itis to be understood that such showing isillustrative onlyl and that the `device may be` made in various sizes and adapted for use upon the male figure as well.
- In the drawings, Figure l is: a front1perspective-view ofa `garment fitting apparatus embodying our invention, showing the apparatusilin its operative position and illustratinga portion of the pattern paper applied thereto. Fig.- 2 is a rear perspective view of` the apparatus. Fig. 3 is a detailed section on a larger scale showing the manner of fasten-ing the pattern paper to the garment tter. Fig. Lisa detailedlsectional view of oneV of the delinea-ting strips ofthejacket. Fig.` 5 is a detailed sectional view showing the manner of connectingfthe intersecting strips of the jacket. Fig. 6 is a detailed perspective view of the means fastening the jacket upon the person.
In carrying out our, present invention, we employ a `j acket or harness which is designed to be donned or doifed in the manner of a coat or vest and lit closely and conform to..
the size andshape of the figure. In the present instance, weform the jacket of intersecting strips extending from a neck band and arm hole or shoulder bands, all ofwhich are of elastic material. lVe prefer to use rubber, `but spiralv springs or other equivailents may be used.
The neck band lmay be a single strip,
nal rib 5 and side longitudinal ribs 6 spaced equal distances from the said -central rib `5. VVhenthe pattern paper is placed-over these strips any convenient marking material may be run over the paper with a light `pressure so as to trace thereon lines fol lowingthe location of said ribs and thereby `distinctly denote the location of the seam and the amount of the material to beal- `lowed therefor in cutting the garment. The
outer ends of the shoulderstrips 3 are secured to arm'hole bands-7 which are similar in construction to the neck band l and serve to determinethe location and size of the arm holes needed for the particular gar ment bei-ng designed. Side seam strips 8 are secured to and depend from the arm `hole bandl 7 at or near the lowest point thereof and servetomark the location of yth'e side seams of the garment. Secured to the shoulder seam strip 3, between the ends of the same, is a strip 9 which extends over the shoulder and down both'-the back and front` of the jacket, as clearly shown. An `intermediate back seam strip l0 isshown inthe drawings as located between the side strip 8 and the strip 9, and other strips j may-beemployed if desired for anyparticular garment, `while some `of the strips shown may be omitted Without involving a departure from the invention. The strip 11, indicating the location of the front dart, is located between the side strip 8 and the front portion of the strip 9, and a supporting strip 12 is secured to the upper end of the dart strip 11 and extends over the shoulder, being secured to the shoulder strip 8 and terminating at the back of the jacket below the shoulder strip. Strips 13, similar to the strip 12, are arranged transversely to extend around the body and are secured to the several upright strips at the points where they intersect the same, as clearly shown. These several strips 13 and the neck band are provided at their front ends with hooks 14 adapted to engage retaining loops 15 secured to the inner side of the central front strip 4, as shown in Fig. 6. These retaining loops are preferably constructed of a sheet metal plate fixedly secured to the strip 4 'by rivets or similar devices 16 and are formed at opposite sides of the rivets with subst-antially vertical slots 17 through which the hooks 14 are engage-d so as to iit around the outer rims or edges of the plates and thereby hold the transverse or horizontal strips and the neck band to the central front strip and consequently close and fasten the jacket upon the person. Across the back of the jacket extend strips 18, the outer ends of which are secured to the arm hole bands 7, and the strips 12 are secured to these strips 18 as clearly shown in Fig. 2. Similar strips 19 are provided at the front of the jacket and extend from the arm hole bands to the central front strip and are provided with hooks engaging the fastening plates on said strips as will be readily understood. Strips 20 similar to the strips 12, 13, 18 and 19 are provided at the front of the jacket and extend from the neck band downwardly between the strips 4 and 9, as clearly shown in Fig. 1. The several strips of our jacket are all of the same material so that when the jacket is placed upon the body and fastened at the front, the elasticity of the strips will cause them to fit closely to the body and accurately and positively dene the location of the several seams. Thisl lighter strips serve to prevent slipping of the delineating strips and thereby assure accuracy in the pattern. The several strips are secured at their points of intersection by means of studs consisting of posts 21 inserted `through the strips from the rear and caps 22 fitted over the said posts and having a binding engagement therewith, the posts and caps forming studs which will perforate the pattern material 23 and hold the same in place as it is applied to the jacket, as indicated in Fig. 1. A sheet of the pattern material is placed against the jacket and drawn smoothly thereover and is se- 'along the central front line.
ythe slots 17.
cured thereto by socket clasps 24 adapted to engage the studs formed by the posts 21 and caps 22, and to prevent tearing of the pattern sheet while applying the same to the acket, a washer or cushion 25 of rubber or similar material is secured to the said socket clasp and projects therefrom so as to extend over the outer side of the pattern sheet as clearly shown in Fig. 1. When the socket clasp is engaged over` the stud 22 the paper will be perforated and th'lines of perforations thus formed will indicate positively and definitely the lines of seams to be made in the garment. 1t will be noted that the neck band and the transverse strips do not cross the central front strip 4 but merely meet the same and are detachably connected thereto, this arrangement permitting the central strip to fit closely to the body and assure accuracy in the pattern To permit the pattern material to be held t0 this central front strip, studs 26 are provided along the medial longitudinal linepof the same,as shown.
The free lower ends of the strips are drawn in to the waist and hips by belts of any convenient form, one of which is indicated at 27, the measurements for the top of the skirt being thus obtained.
In use, the person to be fitted dons the jacket in the same manner as a vest or coat and fastens it by engaging the hooks 14 in The elastic quality of the jacket will now cause it to conform snugly to the figure and the pattern material drawn smoothly thereover will necessarily accu- ;rately follow the lines of the figure.
The perforations formed in the pattern material tern sheet is being applied thereto. The fastening between the transverse strips and the closing strip permits a limited play of the parts so that twisting of the strips may be overcome and they Ymay loe readily shifted vto accommodate slight irregularities in the figure. As the transverse strips on both sides vof this central front strip are engaged in the loops on the under side of the front strip, distortion of the front strip is obviated and said strip will lie close to the body so that the central front line of the body will be accurately located on the pattern and the pattern material will not be forced away from the body by the fastening. The device will give the actual measurements of the figure and may be used by an unskilled person with accurate and reliable results.
Having thus described our invention what we claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is l. An apparatus for the purpose set forth comprising a jacket composed solely of in tersecting elastic strips, and means at the intersecting points of the strips for joining the strips, said means also serving to secure pattern material to the strips and locate pattern lines on said material.
2. An apparatus for the purpose set forth comprising a jacket of intersecting elastic strips, studs inserted through said strips at their several points of intersection, and clasps adapted to fit over said studs and thereby secure pattern material to the jacket.
3. An apparatus for the purpose set forth comprising a jacket of intersecting elastic strips, studs inserted through the strips at their several points of intersection, cla-s s adapted to fit over said studs and there y secure pattern material to the`jacket, and flexible washers carried by said clasps to bear upon the pattern material.
t. An apparatus for the purpose set forth comprising a jacket of intersecting elastic strips, posts inserted through said strips at their several points of intersection, caps tted on the outer ends of said posts whereby the elastic strips are secured together, andl socket clasps fitting over said caps to secure pattern material to the jacket.
5. An apparatus for the purpose set forth comprising a jacket ofV intersecting elastic strips fitting the contour of the body, certain of said strips following the seam lines of a garment and provided on their outer faces with three or more parallel longitudinal delineating ribs to indicate on pattern material secured over the ribs the lines of and side allowances for seams.
6. A jacket for the purpose set forth comprising an elastic delineating strip, a plurality of elastic retaining strips disposed at an angle to the delineating strip on both sides thereof, fastening plates on the inner face of t-he delineating strip, and members on the ends of the retaining strips engaging said plates, all of said members and plates lying between the side edges of the delineating strip.
7. An apparatus for the purpose set forth comprising an elastic jacket having a central vertical strip and other strips meeting the same at an angle thereto, plates secured to the inner face of the central strip provided with approximately longitudinal slots near their side edges, and hooks on the ends of the meeting strips engaging said slots, the said hooks when in engagement with the plates lying between the edges of the delineating strip.
In testimony whereof we aiiix our signatures, in presence of two witnesses.
PAUL E. SOBOTKER. DAVID H. ACKERMAN.
Witnesses:
R. D. SAWYER, S. D. BETELL.
Genies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing` the Commissioner of Patents,
Washington, D. C.
US63378911A 1911-06-17 1911-06-17 Garment-fitter. Expired - Lifetime US1045449A (en)

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3034216A (en) * 1960-01-27 1962-05-15 Melba M Fossey Fitting garment
US4951396A (en) * 1988-05-24 1990-08-28 Huang Ding S Basic formula of an active layout drawing in skirts tailoring

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3034216A (en) * 1960-01-27 1962-05-15 Melba M Fossey Fitting garment
US4951396A (en) * 1988-05-24 1990-08-28 Huang Ding S Basic formula of an active layout drawing in skirts tailoring

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