UA72498C2 - Elastic interlining, a method for making thereof and an item of clothing, wherein it is used - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to an elastic interlining comprising a substrate that is made of a woven fabric, knitted fabric or knitted fabric with weft insertion, whereby the material of the warp thread and/or weft thread is a filament, in addition to comprising an adhesive layer applied to one side of the substrate, whereby the interlining is shagged on the side that is not provided with adhesive. Preferably, a false-twist textured polyester or polyamide filament with a fineness ranging from 15-440 dtex is used. The invention also relates to a method for producing a shagged interlining and to the use thereof as reinforcement for items of clothing, especially for the front parts of clothing.

Description

The invention relates to an elastic gasket, a method of its manufacture and its application.

Pads have been used in the garment industry for many years, primarily to strengthen the front of garments. These pads consist of a frame, which can be made in the form of fabric, knitwear or fibrous cloth, and of a conventional thermoplastic adhesive mass applied in the form of a grid, and this adhesive mass ensures bonding with the upper material of the garments.

The task of such pads is to provide the proper shape of the item of clothing and its stabilization. As they bond to the outer material, they affect the character of the finished garment. Appearance, shape stability, softness, wearing comfort, as well as care properties during cleaning and washing depend on the type and structure of the pad. At the same time, appearance, style and properties of care for ready-made items of clothing are especially important properties of clothing items.

Clothing items must also correspond to changing fashion trends. Therefore, various upper materials are used. Accordingly, to strengthen these different top materials, as a rule, different types of spacers are also used.

For traditional pads on a fabric basis, a frame is used, which can be made in the form of fabric, knitwear or fiber cloth, and from a conventional thermoplastic adhesive mass applied in the form of a grid, and this adhesive mass ensures gluing with the upper material of clothing items. By".

Fabrics obtained in this way are structured or stabilized in terms of shrinkage with the help of a cellulose structuring agent. By fluffing or sanding one side of the fabric, the most dense pile is created on the surface of the pad and, thereby, high softness and volume, as well as the closedness of the pad. This is crucial for the neck of the finished product. The non-piled side of the fabric is then covered with an adhesive mass, mainly hot-melt adhesives, using known methods. When gluing the gasket with the upper material, the pile on the reverse side also prevents the penetration of the melt glue mass through the gasket in the direction of the lining material.

Similar pads are also commonly known in the form of knitwear. In the weft, the above-mentioned staple yarn of CM, СО, РЕ5, РАМ or their mixtures is used. The basis is formed, as a rule, from thin complex threads, consisting mainly of polyester or polyamide and having a linear density in the range of 2.5-7 8g/km (25-78ageh). Also here, the side not covered with hot-melt glue is piled, in order to achieve a soft neck and high volume and prevent the penetration of the coating through the gasket.

Fiber cloths are also used as frame materials for spacers. The specific weight of such pads, used to fix the front of clothing, is usually 20-80g/cm-. Strengthening occurs, as a rule, thermally due to calender shafts engraved in the form of a grid. Often, fabrics are additionally reinforced with main and/or weft threads, which can be woven. These yarns are also composed of the aforementioned fine complex yarns or textured polyester staple yarns. These canvases can be coated with hot melt adhesives. Due to the nature of the canvas, the danger of penetration of the coating through the upper material is usually small. The disadvantage in any case is, however, that this type of pads does not have the volume and soft neck of the above piled pads.

EP-A-0810314 describes a different type of hard pad made of aerodynamically textured yarn for volume and a soft neck. In a similar way, as it is known from the plush decoration, fabric and knitwear with loops are used. Loops are formed due to the use of aerodynamically textured EB-yarn. Yarn made with this special texturing method consists of two thread systems. The core thread provides stability. Loops of textured, aerodynamically shaped REb yarn complete the picture of the product and provide a soft neck.

Pads made of such threads are inelastic. Therefore, due to the loop structure, the fabric panels are joined together.

In addition, a similarly restless and uneven surface is almost impossible to cover by the most common methods for fixing pads, for example, by the method of two-point spraying of the paste. Therefore, additional processing of loops is necessary to obtain a more uniform surface of the product.

These loops, as it has been known for a long time from other areas of textile processing, are mechanically straightened and opened or burned by means of piling, processing with emery cloth or brushes. However, the burning of loops is an extremely critical process in terms of the safety of the method. At the same time, discoloration of the textile product may occur. In addition, the neck becomes more rigid due to the molten balls that appear at the ends of the strings. This, in some circumstances, necessitates further processing. These additional operations, such as firing and sanding, are associated with additional costs. In general, such gaskets have not yet been able to break into the market.

All the gaskets described above are characterized by the fact that they are largely rigid and inelastic in relation to tensile loads in the longitudinal and transverse directions. A small expansion of the gasket is possible with high mechanical load. This stretching does not entirely occur only after loading. Such insufficient elasticity of known gaskets is an important drawback.

When connecting such a known gasket to the upper material, the gasket is unable to repeat the changes in the dimensions of the upper material due to heat, during washing, due to solvents during cleaning, or due to external forces, which can lead to the formation of wrinkles, partial separation of the gasket, or to wave-like deformations and swellings. This greatly impairs the consumer value of the item of clothing. This problem is especially relevant in modern mono- or bi-elastic upper materials, which due to the proportion of elastin are prone to strong changes in size during fixation and steam treatment.

In an attempt to avoid separation and to increase the adhesion force, the amount of adhesive mass applied is increased, which, when fixing the gasket with the top material, can penetrate through the gasket and/or top material. This not only contaminates the fixing press at the manufacturer of ready-made clothes and disrupts the uninterrupted process of fixing due to the sticking of cut parts to each other, but also greatly deteriorates the vulture and, thereby, the consumer value of these items of clothing.

Since for this reason it was not possible to increase the amount of adhesive applied, attempts were made to match the gasket in terms of its shrinkage properties to the corresponding top material.

However, in the practice of the garment industry, this is almost impossible, since very diverse upper materials with the most diverse properties are processed, and the garment industry, for economic reasons, is forced to compensate for all the diversity of upper materials with a minimum number of types of pads. In addition, with the help of this type of hard pads on elastic upper materials, it is not possible to achieve a satisfactory fixation result, because the properties of the pad and the upper material are too different.

In order to avoid these shortcomings, another type of fixing pads was developed in recent years. They are characterized by the use of polyester complex threads textured by false twisting with a linear density of 2-40g/km (20-4004yeh) as weft threads. The base can have a similar structure as mentioned above in relation to known solid pads, but it can also be made of textured polyester threads with a linear density of 2.5-16.7g/km (25-1674aieh). A similar gasket is described in OE 9319870Ш11. The fabric or knitted frame is also coated with hot melt adhesives in known ways. The specific weight of these pads is usually 35-120g/m7.

The properties of the fixing spacers are crucially dependent on the properties of polyester complex threads textured by the method of false twisting. These faux-twist textured polyester composite yarns are highly elastic as they stretch very easily under tensile loads in the warp and weft directions as well as in the diagonal. After removing the tensile load, these threads almost return to their original state. The elasticity in the direction of the weft is usually 20-2595, but it can be increased to 4095. In the direction of the warp, the elasticity in the ideal case is 6-895. Elasticity values up to 1595 are also known, but to achieve this high elasticity value during processing in the garment industry requires increased costs.

Thanks to the elasticity of this pad, it is able to accurately repeat the changes in the size of the upper material due to heat, during washing, due to solvents or when cleaning due to external forces. This eliminates, therefore, the above disadvantages of rigid pile padding. This type of spacers can therefore find almost universal use for many different top materials, especially if they consist of textured polyester threads in the weft and base.

Due to the tortuosity of the textured polyester threads, there is also a high volume, which prevents the penetration of the melt adhesive mass when fixing with the upper material through the gasket in the direction of the lining material.

Textured polyester threads are also used in combination with canvas. A similar gasket is described in OE 4408813С1. As a result of the steam treatment process, the elasticity of the knitted fabric composition is ensured, at least in the direction of the base. The main task of reinforcing textured polyester threads or bicomponent complex threads is to create the necessary elasticity and at the same time prevent the destruction of the canvas under the action of tensile loads.

The disadvantage of this type of spacers is, however, that textured polyester complex yarns or bicomponent elementary yarns cannot be piled, since the elementary yarns do not have fiber ends for piling. Therefore, due to the lack of a fretboard, the pad cannot achieve the softness of the fretboard and the elegance of a hard piled pad.

Gradual improvements were achieved through the use of textured microyarn, which should provide a softer neck due to the linear density of the individual elementary thread (see EP 0481867A1). Complex designs are also known, for example from EP 0289378 AT, in which, in addition to the base and weft, which respectively consist of textured polyester threads, a third system of threads consisting of piled inelastic yarn, also used in classic piled pads, is introduced. However, due to this, the appearance of a rigid piled pad is not achieved, since the elastic thread systems still cannot be piled.

For this reason, the vulture in these elastic fixing pads and in ready-to-wear items, primarily in the field of haute couture, is judged to be too synthetic, dry and artificial compared to classic piled pads.

OE 19644111 describes the use of multicomponent fibers of the "vide-ru-side" type to solve this problem. Due to this, the problems of the neck have been solved. However, these fibers are expensive and can be obtained worldwide only in very small quantities and in very small titers (the titer of the elementary thread "

O.2g/km (2aieh)), necessary to achieve a particularly soft neck. Because of this, the wide commercial use of gaskets made of such fibers is currently impossible. In addition, the dimensional stability of this pad with any top materials is not always satisfactory.

The objective of this invention is to develop a competitively priced, elastic pad that would combine low shrinkage values and good care properties of pads with textured false-twist REb threads with the soft neck of a classic piled pad. In addition, a method of manufacturing such a gasket must be developed, as well as its optimal application.

This is done due to the use of standard elementary threads, and the lining made of such elementary threads is piled, in particular, due to sandpaper processing.

The best implementations of the gasket, according to the invention, are given in clauses 2-38 of the claims.

In addition, the invention describes a method of manufacturing an elastic gasket with the features of item 9 of the formula.

Polyester (PE5) and/or polyamide (PA) threads textured by false twisting are mainly used as elementary threads.

Threads textured by the method of false twisting have long been known in the manufacture of gaskets.

Texturing by the method of false twisting creates highly elastic threads with high extensibility and a large volume. These yarns can still be woven into fabric, knitwear or knitwear with a weft insert.

With traditional manufacturing and processing, the above-mentioned elastic pads appear, which, however, are often dry and synthetic to the touch, since the neck is determined by the nature of the elementary threads.

Pads made according to the invention have, on the contrary, the same elasticity, but at the same time they have a soft velvet neck of a classic pad. This is possible due to the processing method described in the present invention, in which a part of the textured by the method of false twisting elementary threads, which creates a neck, is mechanically destroyed, as a result of which many distant fibers are formed, which give the appearance and neck to the piled yarn pad.

The textile frame underlying the present invention can be a fabric, knitwear or knitwear with a weft thread lining, which has a specific weight of preferably 15-125g/sme. Preferably, the weft or the warp, or even better the warp and the weft, consist of textured by the method of false twisting REB5 or RA elementary threads. The linear density of PE5 and RA elementary threads textured by the method of false twisting is usually 1.5-44g/km (15-440ageh), even better 3-18g/km (30-180a(eh).

Well-known weaves can also be used in fabrics and knitwear with weft thread laying.

The original fabric produced in this way is usually washed and shrunk. Due to heating and humidity, it is possible to achieve thread shrinkage and targeted maximum elasticity. Then, if necessary, dyeing and thermal stabilization are carried out in a drying and expanding machine. After that, the products are covered with an adhesive in the usual way, preferably with a thermoplastic hot-melt adhesive or a thermoset mass. The covering can be in the form of a grid, and the size of the holes can be 1-35 mesh.

In order to achieve, according to the invention, the effect of the neck of a piled classic pad, an additional mechanical processing process is introduced, namely piled, preferably sandpapering.

Sandblasting as a finishing effect is primarily used in the production of suede imitations and "peach" finishing of fabrics and knitwear. Sanding is a variant of piling and is produced on a sanding machine. When passing through this machine, the surface of the fabric is purposefully roughened by friction with one or more emery rollers. Thus, the fabric acquires a velvety appearance, which can be controlled by using different types of emery.

The emery paper preferably consists of a flexible substrate such as paper, latex paper, cloth, film, canvas or composite fibers with an evenly dispersed abrasive grain, and it is spirally wound on at least one emery roller. These rollers can be rotated independently of each other and grind the fabric either along the path of the canvas or against it.

In addition to the direction of rotation of the rollers, the tension and speed of the canvas, the sanding process can be influenced by the types of grain used in the sandpaper, as well as the granularity. In practice, the following common types of grain are used: silicon carbide, aluminum oxide, zirconium corundum, ceramics and diamond.

The granularity is determined by the number of granules per unit area, and it can lie in the range of 40-1000, and in the product described, according to the invention, the granularity in the range of 100-150 was mainly used.

Grinding the granulate causes delamination of the ends of the fibers on the surface of the product and gives it a velvety appearance.

Such piled laying is surprising to the expert because in the elementary threads there are no fiber ends, as in the staple yarn of classic layings, nor loops, as in piled products with a special fabric structure or in aerodynamically textured threads, which can be rubbed or straightened.

On the contrary, the ends of the fibers, necessary for the soft HER rough neck, must be obtained only by breaking the elementary threads in many places. At the same time, many elementary threads must be destroyed in order to create as dense and uniform a pile as possible from the distant ends of the fibers.

First of all, there is a homogeneous system of filaments in which all the individual elementary filaments contribute equally to the stability of the filament. In contrast to the aerodynamically textured REZ-threads or pile products, PE5-threads textured by the false twisting method do not have an additional thread system (core thread) that ensures stability. Therefore, any destruction of the elementary thread can cause a loss of strength. Also, the standard threads textured by the method of false twisting do not, as a rule, have only a minimal twist (0-20 twists/m), so that the destroyed elementary threads can unravel and leave the frame as free fibers.

According to the invention, the piling process can be carried out at different stages of the method. If the piling process (sanding) occurs after coating with an adhesive, then a little of the coating mass penetrates the threads of the gasket and causes additional stabilization. This happens unexpectedly even when the sanded side is opposite the coated side. The tendency to untangle is small, because the mass of the coating, even if it is on the opposite side, causes additional stabilization. Individual fibers are partially glued together by the remains of the coating mass. In addition, not all elementary threads are completely cut during the piling process, so there is sufficient residual strength. The gaskets produced in this way have a large volume and, according to the invention, are the best.

If there is a need to increase the tensile strength of threads and reduce the tendency to unravel, then you can use textured threads with an additional twist by the method of false twisting.

The twist can be 20-1000 twists/m, but mostly it is 100-400 twists/m. At the end of the sandblasting process, fibers also appear here, one end of which is fixed in the thread due to the twist. The volume of products with an even structure becomes smaller, the higher the twist.

The process of pilling or sanding can be carried out, however, before coating with an adhesive or during preliminary treatment. In this case, it is worth paying attention to the fact that the threads do not tighten or shift.

In the gasket, according to the invention, thermoplastic hot-melt glue is used mainly, which is applied in the form of a grid. In particular, hot-melt glue based on (CO) polyamide, (CO) polyester or polyethylene is preferred. Consumption is, in general, 8-15g/m2, mostly 9-12g/m7.

In order to explain the invention, some best embodiments of the emery pad according to the invention are shown below.

The sander shown in the examples below is a solid roller sander.

In addition to sanding machines with solid rollers, sanding machines with railed rollers are also known in practice. These slatted rollers carry individual sanding bars fixed parallel to each other and are particularly suitable for dense bulky fabrics with natural fiber content. Another option is a needle pile machine, in which the rollers are wrapped with a needle tape and can create a significantly denser pile.

Example 1.

Cloth

Basis: PE5 textured highly elastic ipieptide, atechnique 100136/1

Weft: PE5 textured highly elastic, "Czech Republic 100132/2

Weft density: approximately 140 threads/10 cm

Weave: 1/3 cross twill, this uneven weave creates raw weft threads, the fabric is sanded on the weft side.

Total specific gravity: about god/m?

Coating: hot-melt polyamide glue, consumption 11g/m2

Finishing operations: shrinkage, processing, coating, sanding, steam treatment.

Sandblasting operations: - 1st roller: grain size 320, direction of rotation according to the movement of the fabric; - 2nd - 4th rollers, grain size 400, direction of rotation according to the movement of the fabric; - fabric speed: 1 Ohm/min; - number of passes: 1; - machine type: Zregono Kitag MA.

Example 2.

Basic woven fabric

Base: PE5 smooth, "Mech 33115/1

Weft: PE5 textured highly elastic, "(ex 100172/2

Previous twist: 200 twists/m

Weft density: approximately 120 threads/10 cm

Weave: chain with closed loops

Total specific gravity: about ZOg/m?

Coating: hot-melt polyamide glue, consumption 10 g/m2

Finishing operations: shrinkage, finishing, sanding, coating, steam treatment.

Sandblasting operations: - 1st and 3rd rollers: grain size 400, direction of rotation according to fabric movement; - 2nd roller, grain size 400, direction of rotation towards the movement of the fabric; - fabric speed: 12 m/min; - number of passes: 1; - machine type: Zregono Kitag MA.

Example 3.

Basic woven fabric

Base: PE5 textured highly elastic, agekh 33115/1

Weft: PE5 textured, highly elastic, "(ex 1671100/2

Weft density: approximately 100 threads/10 cm

Weave: chain with offset loops

Total specific weight: approximately 45g/m2

Coating: polyamide hot melt glue, consumption Ug/m?

Finishing operations: shrinkage, processing, coating, sanding, steam treatment.

Sandblasting operations: - 1st and 2nd rollers: grain size 400, direction of rotation according to the movement of the fabric; - 3rd roller, grain size 500, direction of rotation towards the movement of the fabric; - fabric speed: 14 m/min; - number of passes: 1; - machine type: Zregono Kitag MA.

Example 4.

Cloth

Basis: PE5 textured highly elastic iphiethide, "(ex 10006/1

Weft: PE5 textured highly elastic, "Czech Republic 167132/2

Weft density: approximately 115 threads/10cm

Weave: cross twill 2/2

Total specific weight: approximately 80g/m2

Coating: hot-melt polyamide glue, consumption 10g/m?

Finishing operations: shrinkage, finishing, sanding, coating, steam treatment.

Sandblasting operations: - 1st and 2nd rollers: grain size 320, direction of rotation according to the movement of the fabric; - 3rd roller: grain size 400, direction of rotation according to the movement of the fabric; - fabric speed: 12 m/min; - number of passes: 1; - machine type: Zregono Kitag MA.

As can be seen from the application examples, this process of sandblasting can be carried out in different places of the technological chain.

For the first time, it is thus possible to create, with the help of ordinary, textured method of false twisting of threads, the appearance and style of a classic piled pad and connect these properties with the advantages of elastic pads.

Claims (18)

1. An elastic pad containing a frame based on a fabric, knitwear or knitwear with a weft thread insert, and the material of the main and weft threads is a complex thread, and an adhesive layer applied to one side of the frame, which is distinguished by the fact that it is piled on the side, on which there is no adhesive. 2. The gasket according to claim 1, which differs in that the complex thread consists of polyester and/or polyamide. 3. The gasket according to claim 1 or 2, which differs in that the complex thread has a linear density in the range of 1.5-44 g/km (15-440 aeh). 4. A gasket according to one of claims 1-3, which is characterized by the fact that the complex thread has a linear density in the range of 3-18 g/km (30-180 agh). 5. A gasket according to one of claims 1-4, which differs in that the base and/or weft consists of polyester or polyamide complex thread textured by the method of false twisting. 6. The gasket according to one of claims 1-5, which differs in that the complex threads are additionally twisted. 7. Gasket according to claim 6, which differs in that the twist is 20-1000 twists/m. 8. Gasket according to claim 6 or 7, which differs in that the twist is 100-400 twists/m. 9. The method of manufacturing an elastic gasket containing a frame based on fabric, knitwear or knitwear with a weft thread insert, and the material of the main and weft threads is a complex thread and an adhesive layer applied to one side of the frame, which includes the following stages: a) production of the original fabric, original knitwear, if necessary, with the laying of the weft complex thread; b) if necessary, the dyeing process; c) thermal stabilization of the original fabric or original knitwear; d) covering one side of the obtained original fabric or original knitwear with adhesive; which differs in that, as an additional step, piling is carried out on the side on which there is no adhesive. 10. The method according to claim 9, which is characterized by the fact that fluffing is carried out using sandpaper. 11. The method according to claim 10, which is characterized by the fact that sandpaper is used for sanding, which is wound in a spiral on at least one sanding roller, and the surface of the gasket is fluffed due to friction on at least one sanding roller. 12. The method according to claim 11, which differs in that the sandpaper has a grain size in the range of 40-1000, preferably 100-500. 13. The method according to one of claims 9-12, which is characterized by the fact that sanding is carried out before covering the frame with adhesive. 14. The method according to one of claims 9-13, which differs in that sanding is carried out in the process of processing before coating. 15. The method according to one of claims 9-12, which differs in that sanding is carried out after coating the frame with an adhesive. 16. The method according to one of claims 11-15, which is characterized by the fact that several sanding rollers are rotated independently of each other to ensure their rotation independently of each other in the direction of movement of the pad or towards it. 17. The method according to one of claims 11-16, which is characterized by the fact that at least one sanding roller rotates at a speed of 8-20 m/min. 18. An article of clothing, in particular the front part of an article of clothing, which is characterized by the fact that an elastic gasket according to one of claims 1-8 is used to strengthen the article of clothing or its front part.