JPS6115175B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

This invention relates to raised fabrics. The purpose is to provide a raised fabric that has both excellent drapability and bulkiness, and also has high anti-pilling properties. Generally, the drapability and bulkiness of textiles are contradictory properties, and no textile is known that fully satisfies both. For example, woven fabrics using false twisted yarns have excellent bulkiness but poor drapability. Furthermore, fabrics using highly twisted yarns had excellent drapability but poor bulkiness. This tendency is the same in raised fabrics, and known raised fabrics are usually those made by raising the back side of satin fabrics whose wefts are lightly twisted with a twist coefficient of 3000 or less, and this accounts for the majority. . Such woven fabrics do not have drapability that satisfies the bulkiness due to raising. Furthermore, raised fabrics have the fatal drawback of being susceptible to pilling. Among these, those made of raised thin fabrics have the above-mentioned drawbacks and are therefore completely unsuitable for applications that require particularly good drape properties, such as women's dresses. Traditionally, raised fabrics have been manufactured by a method in which the wefts are lightly twisted, then refined and dyed, and then raised.In addition, there is also a method in which the weft is first raised, refined, and dyed while minimizing untwisting of the lightly twisted yarns. It has been known.
However, in this method, the strength of the weft yarns is significantly reduced because the weft yarns are cut and raised. There is a limit to the increase in weft density due to weaving considerations, and this is not an effective measure to prevent a decrease in weft strength. The present inventors have focused on the above-mentioned problems of conventional raised fabrics, have conducted extensive research, and have solved the problems and completed the present invention. The gist of this is that it is a fabric that uses multifilament yarn with a twist coefficient of 7350 or more in at least the warp, and that the multifilament yarn is raised on both sides of the fabric and the short fuzz is spread over the entire surface in random directions. A raised fabric is formed in which some of the fluff is intertwined with each other. Twisting coefficient K=T√ (T=number of twists [turns/m], D=fineness [denier]) in the present invention.
If the twist coefficient, ie, K, is less than 7350, excellent drape properties will not be exhibited. Conventional brushed fabric has K.
3000 or less, and does not have suitable drape properties. Furthermore, although there have been fabrics using threads with a K of 7350 or more, none are known to have fluff like the one of the present invention. The twist coefficient in this invention is
Must be 7350 or higher. However, preferably in the range of 13000 to 39000, more preferably in the range of 17300 to
The range is 35000. Twisted or untwisted multifilament yarn or spun yarn can be used as the weft, but multifilament yarn with a twist coefficient of 7350 or more is preferable. The textile structure may be plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, or a modified structure thereof. On both sides of this fabric, short fluffs are uniformly formed over the entire surface of the fabric in random directions, and some of the fluffs are entangled with each other. Since the fuzz exists in this state, the fabric has extremely good bulkiness without impairing the drapability, which is a characteristic of twisted yarn fabrics, and also has excellent anti-pilling properties. It is preferable that the single fibers forming the fluff are split so that the fine fibrillar fluff is branched, as this further improves the bulkiness. Conventional raised fabrics have relatively long fluffs in the same direction, so they have good bulkiness, but are poor in drape and anti-pilling properties. Furthermore, the direction of the fluff causes a difference in the contact friction coefficient and color difference, so the direction of the fluff must be taken into consideration when sewing. Next, a method for manufacturing this raised fabric will be explained. First, at least one surface of a twisted fabric woven using multifilament yarns having a twist coefficient of 7350 or more for at least the warp is subjected to a napping treatment. The weaving method and fabric structure can be selected from conventionally known means. Prior to raising, a pretreatment using a heated cinder or the like may be performed to correct distortions, wrinkles, etc. during weaving or knitting and to impart smoothness to the fabric surface. There are no limitations on the raising means, and known methods such as clothing, emery paper, etc. can be used. Particle size 100 preferably on the cloth or paper substrate side
Raised with an emery roller containing ~800 mesh of silica sand, garnet, and alumina. Furthermore, in order to prevent clogging during processing of the abrasive material, it is also effective to apply metal soap or the like to the surface of the abrasive material, for example. Even if the raised surface is only one side, fuzz appears on the non-raised surface as will be described later, and the fabric of the present invention can be obtained. Of course, both sides may be brushed if necessary. When the twisted yarn fabric subjected to this raising treatment is untwisted by a relaxing treatment, a part of the fluff raised on one side is reversed and appears on the other side. In this invention, yarn with a twist coefficient of 7350 or more is used at least for the warp, so when the single fibers constituting this yarn are cut by raising treatment, the free end of the cut single yarn is The length is extremely short and there are many cut points, so short fluff is densely generated. In addition, by relaxing the yarn, the twisted yarn is untwisted, and as the yarn is untwisted, some of the fuzz can be reversed to the side opposite to the napping process, and at the same time, the direction of the fuzz becomes random and becomes entangled with each other. becomes. In normal twisted fabrics, the warp,
The weft yarns are also arranged alternately in S twist and Z twist, but if arranged in this way, the fluff will have no directionality at all, and will be more randomly oriented, promoting entanglement. In addition, the bending of the yarn is greater in hard-twisted yarn than in lightly-twisted yarn,
Since it appears in large quantities on the surface of textiles, it is easily raised by raising treatment. Therefore, when twisted yarns are used as the warp yarns, the warp yarns are mainly cut and raised, and the weft yarns are not cut and the strength is not significantly reduced. Since the density of warp yarns can be increased relatively more freely than that of weft yarns, the fabric can be made to have sufficient strength even when raised. The degree to which the raised fluff appears reversed on the other side due to relaxation treatment depends on the fabric design such as twist coefficient, weave structure, density, etc., and the relaxation treatment conditions, but normally in the case of jersey plain weave, the extent to which the raised fluff appears reversed on the other side is There are a lot of them, and there are few in the case of satin fabrics. The relaxation treatment may be performed under any conditions that allow the twisted yarn to be untwisted, and can be appropriately selected from conventional methods. Usually, this is carried out in hot water using a machine such as a kneading type dyeing machine or a washer, and if necessary, it may be carried out under pressure. Processing time is 10-60 minutes. If an agent such as a fiber embrittlement agent or decomposition agent is applied to the napping surface prior to the napping process to make it embrittling, the fluff will more easily form into fibrils during the napping process, making it possible to create even finer fluff. Therefore, it is preferable. In addition, when polyester fibers are used, drapability is further improved by carrying out an alkali weight reduction process to reduce the weight by 5 to 40%. The yarns used in this invention include multifilament yarns such as recycled fibers, semi-synthetic fibers, synthetic fibers, or silk threads as warp yarns, and multifilament yarns of natural fibers, recycled fibers, semi-synthetic fibers, synthetic fibers, and spun yarns as weft yarns. Can be used. Among these, polyester fibers are suitable because they have a remarkable treatment effect and exhibit excellent bulkiness and traceability. As the multifilament yarn, textured yarn, mixed yarn, plied yarn, etc. can also be used. The fineness of the yarn used is a total denier of 30 to 300 denier, and a single yarn denier of 0.1 to 300 denier.
3 denier, 1/10Nm to 1/200N for spun yarn
It is m. The raised fabric according to the present invention may be used as is for clothing, or may be subjected to calendering or other processing. Furthermore, artificial leather can also be produced by impregnating it with a rubbery elastic material such as polyurethane. The raised fabric and the method for producing the same of the present invention are as described above and bring about the following effects. It satisfies the contradictory properties of drapability and bulkiness. Since this effect can be obtained even in thin fabrics, it is suitable for use in women's dresses. Excellent anti-pilling properties. Despite the nap effect, there is little decrease in strength. The printing has good permeability, and there is no need for finishing processes such as hair removal after printing. This will be described in detail below with reference to Examples. [Example 1] Polyacrylonitrile multifilament yarn (manufactured by Asahi Kasei Co., Ltd., trade name Pieuron) 75 denier/
24 filament twisted at 2000 times/m, 70℃,
Twisted yarn steam set for 30 minutes (twist coefficient 17320)
The warp and weft are both S-twist and Z-twist, two threads are arranged alternately, and the gray density (warp) is 146 threads/inch, (weft) is 80 threads.
I wove a plain cloth of 1/2. Using emery paper (grain size #800), the relative speed between the emery paper and the gray paper was 1190.
m/min, contact load 15Kg, after brushing one side, 80
Untwisting was performed by hot water relaxation treatment at ℃ for 60 minutes. The resulting brushed fabric has short, intertwined fluff on both sides, and has a drape coefficient of 75%, bulky coefficient of 2.30 cm/gr, pilling grade 5, and tear strength (warp).
It was 840gr, (latitude) 1200gr. [Example 2] Polyester multifilament yarn 75 denier/72 filament was twisted at 2500 times/m to create 80
℃, 40 minutes steam set twisted yarn (twist coefficient
21650), S twist, Z twist 2 for both warp and weft.
Books arranged alternately, raw material density (longitudinal) 195 books/inch,
(Weft) 94 pieces/inch of 5-ply satin fabric was woven. This gray fabric was brushed on one side using emery paper (grain size #400) at a relative speed of 1200 m/min and a contact load of 40 kg, then subjected to hot water relaxation treatment at 120°C for 120 minutes, untwisted, and then washed with caustic soda. A 15% weight loss process was carried out using an aqueous solution. After that, liquid jet dyeing and finishing setting are performed, and the finishing density (warp) is 227.
Finishing was done with 107 books/inch (lattice). The resulting raised fabric had short intertwined fluffs on both sides (however, the non-raised side had fewer fluffs) and had excellent physical properties as shown in the table below.

【table】

[Example 3]

Polyester multifilament yarn 75 denier/36 filaments are twisted at 3500 turns/m to create 80
℃, 40 minutes steam set twisted yarn (twist coefficient
30310), two S-twist and Z-twist are arranged alternately on both the warp and weft, and the gray fabric density (warp) is 201 strands/inch, (weft)
We wove 90 pieces of 5-ply satin fabric. A 20% aqueous solution of diethylaminoethanol was applied only to the surface of this gray fabric, and the mixture was heat-dried at 180°C for 30 seconds. After that, use emery paper (grain size #450) at a relative speed of 1200 m/min and a contact load of 35.
The diethylaminoethanol treated surface was raised with Kg. After that, a hot water relaxation treatment was performed at 120℃ for 120 minutes, resulting in a finishing density of 228 threads/inch (longitudinal) and 107 threads/inch (latitudinal).
I finished it with a book. The resulting raised fabric had short intertwined fibrillated fluff on both sides, a drape coefficient of 65%, a bulky coefficient of 2.75 cm ³ /gr, a pilling class 5, a tear strength (warp) of 1090 gr, and a tear strength (warp) of 1600 gr. . Note that the measurement method in this example was performed based on the following. Drape coefficient (%): JISL-1096F method Bulky coefficient (cm ³ /gr): 70gr/cm ² Calculated from the thickness under load. Pilling (grade): JISL-1076A method Tear strength (gr): JISL-1096D method

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1 A woven fabric using multifilament yarn with a twist coefficient of 7350 or more in at least the warp, in which short fluff is formed by raising the multifilament yarn on both sides of the fabric in random directions, and one of the fluffs is A brushed fabric characterized by the fact that the parts are intertwined with each other.