RU2702907C1 - Cosmetic mask film - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetology.

SUBSTANCE: invention relates to cosmetology and represents a facial skin mask for face skin care, having lifting, exfoliating, antiaging, reducing, cleansing, tonic and moisturizing actions, including sodium alginate, target additives and an aqueous solvent, characterized by that it contains carboxymethyl cellulose, polyvinyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol PEG-4000, and as an aqueous solvent contains water or aqueous extracts of medicinal herbs, wherein the components in the mask are in a certain ratio in wt%.

EFFECT: invention provides a wider range of facial skin care products having lifting, peeling, antiaging, reducing, cleansing, tonic and moisturizing actions, as well as provides more comfortable use of the cosmetic mask by fast formation of an elastic-elastic film after applying a destructive cosmetic agent onto the skin.

8 cl, 10 ex, 4 tbl

Description

The invention relates to facial skin care in the form of masks with a complex effect on the skin and can be used in the cosmetic industry, in the field of cosmetology and medicine.

In cosmetic practice, creams-masks are widely used, which, after application, can form a tight-fitting layer on the skin that slightly tightens the skin when it dries.

The use of masks for facial skin is widely known (for example, Brief Encyclopedia of Household, M., Publishing House "S.E.", 1984, p. 253). Almost every mask consists of a base and additional nutritional and therapeutic agents. The basis can be yolk, protein, starch - rice or maize, butter, yeast, vegetable fats, etc. Among the well-known cosmetic masks, the most numerous group are cream masks, the basis of which are fatty nutrients (for example, ed. Certificate of the USSR No. 1803097). Fat base is well compatible with a wide range of biologically active substances of plant and animal origin.

As components of masks or bases for them, it is known to use substances of mineral origin. Such masks, as a rule, are used to reduce skin greasiness and its cleaning. Such, in particular, is a mask base made from white clay mixed with other powdery substances. For some skin types, it is recommended to use the following composition as a base: white clay 3 parts, rice or maize starch 1 part, zinc oxide 1/2 part, magnesia 2 parts, peeled talc or tooth powder 2 parts, alum powder 1/5 part ( SN Lensina. Cosmetics, age and time of year. Tallinn "Valgus", 1986, p. 121).

Known mask for facial skin care (RF Patent No. 2030911), which helps to cleanse the skin, eliminate peeling of the surface of the comedones and reduces greasiness. This mask contains kaolin, talc, bentonite clay or tiha-Askane, as well as ground fruit bones or an egg-shell mineral fortifier, carbamide, lecithin, chamomile oil extract and other plant-based components.

Known cosmetic mask for applying to the skin, including a creamy cosmetic product on a fat, emulsion or gel basis and an additional reagent isolated from each other (RF patent No. 2658046, IPC A61K 8/03, publ. 1906.2018). The specified creamy cosmetic product additionally contains in an amount of 0.1-10.0 wt. % water-soluble biocompatible polymer with a mass in the range of 50,000-1000000 Da, capable of undergoing a cross-polymerization reaction and selected from the group including: polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone, hydroxyethyl starch, carrageenan, sodium alginate, agar-agar, xanthan gum, chitosan gum, chitosan, gum / starch, polyvinylpyrrolidone / starch, starch / xanthan gum, polyvinyl alcohol / polyvinylpyrro-lidone, chitosan / polyvinyl alcohol, xanthan gum / polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl alcohol / starch; and as an additional reagent, the mask contains a 0.5-15.0% aqueous solution of an electrolyte substance containing multiply charged ions selected from divalent metal salts, such as: calcium chloride, zinc chloride, zinc sulfate, magnesium sulfate; or from polybasic organic and inorganic acids and / or their salts, such as: boric acid or citric acid, or sodium citrate, while the mass ratio of the specified water-soluble biocompatible polymer in a creamy cosmetic product and an electrolyte substance in an aqueous solution is from 10: 1 to 1: 1, respectively. A method of applying such a cosmetic mask to the skin involves applying a creamy cosmetic to a fat, or emulsion, or gel base onto the skin and then applying an additional reagent to it. First, a creamy cosmetic product is applied to the skin, into which an additionally water-soluble biocompatible polymer with a mass in the range of 50000-1000000 Da is added, capable of undergoing a cross-polymerization reaction and selected from the group including: polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone, hydroxyethyl starch, sodium carrageenan, alginine agar-agar, xanthan gum, chitosan, chitosan / starch mixtures, polyvinylpyrrolidone / starch, starch / xanthan gum, polyvinyl alcohol / polyvinylpyrrolidone, chitosan / polyvinyl alcohol, xanthan Wai gum / polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl alcohol / starch; incubated for 5-7 minutes and then an additional reagent is applied to the layer of the indicated agent - a 0.5-15.0% aqueous solution of an electrolyte substance containing multiply charged ions selected from salts of divalent metals, such as calcium chloride, chloride zinc, zinc sulfate, magnesium sulfate; or from polybasic organic and inorganic acids and / or their salts, such as: boric acid or citric acid, or sodium citrate, while the mass ratio of the specified water-soluble biocompatible polymer in a creamy cosmetic product and an electrolyte substance in an aqueous solution is from 10: 1 to 1: 1, respectively.

However, this cosmetic mask is inconvenient to use, because first, the main creamy component is applied to the skin, and then after 5-7 minutes an additional component is applied to the mask. In addition, it is necessary to lie still for 30-40 minutes until the end of the session.

A cosmetic product based on brown algae is known (RF patent No. 2314790, IPC АКК 8/97, publ. January 20, 2008) containing a polysaccharide from brown algae. A complex of polysaccharides, including sodium-calcium salt of alginic acid, fucoidan, amino acids, lipids, macro- and microelements, is obtained by soaking brown algae, grinding, insisting them in a solution of 0.5-1.0% hydrochloric acid, extraction in a medium, containing sodium cations at a pH of 8.5-9.0 and a temperature of 80-90 ° C, for 2.0-2.5 hours, extracting the extract to a homogeneous mass and introducing citric acid into it to a pH of 5.0 and 0, 3% calcium lactate or calcium citrate to form a complex in the form of a gel or cream.

To obtain a mask, gel is applied to textile material and dried. Before applying to the skin, the plate of the cosmetic is moistened or applied to wet skin.

However, such a mask is difficult to manufacture and inconvenient to use, because 30-40 minutes need to lie still until the end of the session. It is difficult to achieve the same water content in different parts of the face.

The closest analogue (prototype) is a cosmetic product for the care of the skin of the face and neck in the form of a gel mask (RF patent No. 2275186, IPC A61K 8/18, publ. 02.27.2005), containing natural biologically active components - albumin, characterized the fact that it additionally contains, as natural biologically active components, a placental hydrolyzate and sodium alginate in the following component content, parts by volume: albumin 0.5-95.0; placenta hydrolyzate 1.0-99.0; sodium alginate 0.5-90.0. The cosmetic product may additionally contain targeted additives, which use glycerol in the amount of 2.6 ml and essential oils of 0.4 ml per 100 ml of product.

The main disadvantage of such a cosmetic mask is the insufficient convenience of using the mask, which requires a long wait for the formation of the mask in the form of a film, as well as additional procedures for removing the skin from the skin and removing its residues with lotion. The main three-component composition of the mask has a narrow spectrum of effects on the skin and varies only in the quantitative content of these components. To expand the spectrum of action, the authors recommend the introduction of additional targeted additives.

The technical result is to expand the spectrum of the cosmetic effect of the mask on the skin and increase the usability of the cosmetic mask due to the rapid formation of an elastic-elastic film after applying the gel of the cosmetic product, resistant to destruction, securely held on the face or other area of the skin during the cosmetic procedure due to its adhesive properties and easily removable after use (easy to remove as a whole film).

The specified technical result is achieved in that in a cosmetic mask film containing sodium alginate, target additives and an aqueous solvent, according to the invention, the mask contains carboxymethyl cellulose, polyvinyl alcohol, PEG-4000 polyethylene glycol, the mask contains water or medicinal herbs extracts as an aqueous solvent , with the following quantitative content of the components of the composition (wt.%): sodium alginate - 0.1-1.0; carboxy methyl cellulose - 0.1-1.0; polyvinyl alcohol - 0.1-10.0; polyethylene glycol PEG-4000 - 0.1-5.0; target additives - 0.4-30.0; water or water extracts of medicinal herbs - the rest is up to 100%.

The mask contains ethyl alcohol, glycerin, dicaprilil and maltitol as the main target additives.

To obtain a mask film with active exfoliation of the skin as target additives, it additionally contains kaolin, pearl powder, allantoin, wheat germ oil, seaweed extract, D-panthenol, aloe vera extract, and St. John's wort water extract as water extracts of medicinal herbs , water extract of lavender and water extract of chamomile.

To obtain an anti-aging mask film, it additionally contains allantoin, wheat germ oil, Shea butter, D-panthenol, Gold mother of pearl, dry marigold extract, dry thyme extract, dry sage extract, dry oregano extract, and as an aqueous solvent - purified water.

To obtain a mask-film for skin restoration, it additionally contains allantoin, wheat germ oil, seaweed extract, D-panthenol as target additives, and water extract of oregano, water extract of calendula, and water cornflower as water extracts of medicinal herbs.

To obtain a mask film for deep cleansing of the skin as target additives, it additionally contains aloe vera extract, sulfur, zinc oxide, white lilac extract, allantoin, wheat germ oil, seaweed extract, D-panthenol, and as an aqueous extract of medicinal herbs - water extract of mint.

To obtain a mask film for moisturizing the skin as target additives, it additionally contains aloe vera gel, allantoin, wheat germ oil, seaweed extract, D-panthenol, and water extracts of oregano, water extract of calendula, and water as herbal extracts thyme extract, water extract of chamomile, water extract of sage and water extract of rose flower petals.

To obtain a mask film to enhance skin tone, it additionally contains cranberries, allantoin, wheat germ oil, D-panthenol, Fire Red 333 mother of pearl, calendula dry extract, dry chamomile extract, dry sage extract, and as an aqueous solvent - purified water.

Cosmetic alginate face mask-films are gel, with an odor characteristic of the components included in a hermetically sealed package: sachets, tubes or bottles (jars) of polymer material.

The following are examples of 1-10 formulations of a cosmetic mask film.

The presence of sodium alginate in the compositions of examples 1-2 allows you to use the mask as a cosmetic product, without adding any other active cosmetic substances, herbs, vitamins, micro and macro elements, etc.

Examples of 3-10 masks with various properties with the addition of active cosmetic components

Characteristics of the ingredients.

Sodium Alginate Alginic acid salts (potassium alginate, sodium alginate and magnesium alginate) are very soluble in water and form viscous solutions. The main raw materials for obtaining alginates are kelp - brown seaweed, all the cycles of their life, spent in sea water and therefore saturated with unique acids and trace elements.

Alginates are highly hygroscopic - they are capable of adsorbing an amount of water more than 300 times their own. Physiologically harmless, non-toxic, biodegradable.

Chemically, alginates are polysaccharide polymers from residues of β-D-mannuric and α-L-guluronic acids, interconnected. Alginates when added to water have unique gelling properties. Only alginate gel is thermally irreversible, withstands cooling, freezing and retains its properties during thawing. That is, if the gels formed by agars and carrageenans can liquefy, solubilize, the alginate gel is not able to do this.

When the gel is formed, the polysaccharide chains are first joined together using hydrogen bridges, and then these chains, binding to metal ions, form a cellular structure. In the cosmetic industry, sodium alginate is most often used.

For the most part, sodium alginate is used to make face masks that have numerous positive cosmetic effects.

The biological role of alginates is cell protection. Alginate mask is a strong sorbent: absorbing moisture from the surface of the skin, it is plasticized and removed along with harmful substances, providing a powerful "raslakovka". This is the so-called osmotic process, which in return gives hydration to the deep layers of the epidermis.

Such a mask may have a local immunocorrective effect, because sodium alginate is able to bind class E immunoglobulins, which provoke the occurrence of allergic skin reactions.

By itself, even without additives, the mask containing sodium alginate has a lifting, modeling effect, has a drainage effect, improving the outflow of blood and lymph, promotes the resorption of stagnant spots, stabilizes water-fat processes.

Experts have noticed that a mask with alginate in the composition, applied to the affected areas, effectively heals the skin. In addition, the ability to remove heavy metals has proven to be very useful for detoxifying the body as a whole.

Such masks moisturize well, due to the ability of alginates to retain water, give the skin a healthy color and velvety texture, which ultimately makes alginates an excellent base for express masks.

Alginate masks can also be the final stage of procedures such as mesotherapy, photorejuvenation, peeling in order to eliminate skin irritation.

Polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) is a water-soluble synthetic polymer. For cosmetics, PVA of low molecular weight up to 6000 is most often used. Polyvinyl alcohol is an excellent emulsifying, adhesive and film-forming polymer. It has high tensile strength and flexibility. These properties depend on air humidity, as the polymer absorbs moisture. Water acts on the polymer as a plasticizer. In cosmetic products, polyvinyl alcohol is used as a base capable of forming gels when swelling in water, and when drying forms a film that dissolves easily in water.

Polyethylene glycol (PEG-4000) - polyethylene glycols are highly soluble in many organic solvents and water, non-toxic and can be found in foods, pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. Polyethylene glycol in the cosmetics industry is used as a binder and structure stabilizing substance. The resistance of PEGs to chemical and microbiological dissimilation is their undoubted advantage for the durability and storage of cosmetic and dermatological products.

Carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC) is a cellulose ether. Of greatest practical importance is the sodium salt of CMC, which is a white solid that is readily soluble in water. This substance is obtained by reacting cellulose with monochloracetic acid. Sodium salt of carboxymethyl cellulose is widely used in decorative cosmetics as a softening agent, dispersant and stabilizer, as well as a gelling additive in creams and a foaming agent in masks. CMC has an undoubted advantage over other stabilizers - this is its high efficiency at low concentrations of the substance, the ability to significantly improve the consistency, significantly reduce the influence of thermal drops, full compatibility with all components of the products, including other hydrocolloids.

Water is one of the main conditions for beautiful, healthy and well-hydrated skin. Water contributes to the dermatological effects of some cosmetics by delivering assets to the skin and mucous membranes. Water in cosmetics serves as a solvent for the active ingredients and excipients of cosmetic products, reduces the aggressiveness and toxicity of certain substances, serves as a “filling agent”, an emulsion agent (determines the texture and galenical form of the product).

Ethyl alcohol - a flammable, volatile, transparent liquid with a characteristic odor and burning to the taste, is part of not only alcoholic beverages, but also medicines and many cosmetics. As part of cosmetic products, ethyl alcohol accelerates the absorption of basic components into the skin, dissolves essential oils well, concentrating their smells and maintaining stability, in addition, it has antiseptic (denature the proteins of microorganisms), disinfecting, drying properties, and easily evaporates from the skin surface.

Glycerin is a colorless, odorless, non-toxic liquid. This trihydric alcohol is part of many foods and cosmetics; it mixes well with water and alcohol-containing solutions. The use of glycerin for cosmetic purposes is associated with some of its physicochemical properties: hygroscopicity, that is, the ability to hold water well, it penetrates into the depth of the stratum corneum without creating a greasy film on the surface, the absence of a protein component, therefore, non-allergenicity, chemical resistance, which practice means the impossibility of damaging the cell membranes of the epidermis and mucous membranes, good solubility, emulsifying ability, which increases the cleaning activity.

Dicaprilil - used in the cosmetics industry as an alternative to silicones, can have both a plant and a synthetic base. Dicaprilil acts as a softening agent, emulsifier, emulsion stabilizer and component that increases the shelf life of cosmetics. It gives good “flowability” in creams and decorative cosmetics, creates thin, velvety textures with a quick penetrating property, without the feeling of base oils being oily, it is an excellent dispersant of pigments, does not have a comedogenic effect, and also enhances the cleansing properties of cosmetic milk, lotions and masks, strengthens the lipid barrier, protecting the skin from moisture loss and dehydration.

Maltitol (food supplement E965) - is obtained by hydrogenation from maltose contained in corn or potato starch.

The result is a white crystalline powder or a clear, odorless, viscous liquid. Maltitol is used in the manufacture of cosmetics as a moisture-retaining agent and a consistency regulator.

Chamomile is a genus of perennial flowering plants of the Astrovian family, or Compositae. There are a large number of different types of chamomile. Beauticians use flower baskets as raw materials, which are very rich in skin-friendly substances.

The most important substances that chamomile contains are bisabolol and chamazulene. These components in their pure form have a powerful calming effect on the skin. Chamomile contains a large number of flavonoids (quercetin, luteolin, apigenin, coumarin, choline, phytosterol), essential oils, resins, organic acids, triterpene alcohols, which give a soothing, anti-inflammatory effect, protect the skin from the aggressive effects of ultraviolet rays, have a rejuvenating effect: they control the production of elastin fibers and collagen in the cells, which make the skin taut and elastic.

The composition of chamomile extract includes a lot of different minerals and vitamins (magnesium, sulfur, phosphorus, potassium, vitamins B ₁ , B ₂ , carotene and others). All of them have a beneficial effect on the skin (for example, sulfur fights inflammation of the skin and reduces the appearance of acne, and magnesium reduces the excitability of skin receptors).

Calendula in cosmetology is widespread due to many useful properties. The main active substance is marigold. The composition also contains malic, pentadicylic and salicylic acids, various resins, carotene, essential oils, volatile, carotenoids and flavonoids. Due to this composition, the plant has pronounced bactericidal, wound healing, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, soothing and anti-aging properties. But the positive qualities of calendula are not limited to this. Of course, with such an excellent chemical composition, calendula has become an almost indispensable tool in cosmetology. In addition to its basic properties, the essential oils that make up calendula are able to filter ultraviolet rays and protect the skin from sunburn in summer, and in winter from the harmful effects of frost and wind.

Oregano. Origanum ordinary (or, as it is also called, wind color, forest mint, bee-lover) is a herbaceous perennial plant with a pleasant smell. Natural oregano face masks are a source of minerals and vitamins. The grass acts versatile, helps to cope with many cosmetic problems, is used as an anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, antibacterial agent. The antioxidant properties of oregano are 40 times higher than that of an apple, 12 times greater than that of oranges, 30 times higher than that of potatoes, and 4 times greater than blueberries. Due to this property, the plant actively neutralizes free radicals, thereby slowing down the aging of the skin, and prevents the development of skin diseases. Oregano contains Vitamin K - in cosmetology, this vitamin is used as a means to strengthen capillaries, improve blood circulation, treat hematomas, and restore damaged skin. Thanks to carvacrol and thymol, which is part of the chemical composition, oregano is a powerful antibiotic - an ideal plant for young skin prone to inflammation and acne.

Sage is a perennial herbaceous shrub with gray-green leaves and purple flowers, distributed in temperate and warm latitudes of both hemispheres. Sage extract is introduced into a wide variety of cosmetic products, since the spectrum of its healing action is unusually wide. This herb is well known as a natural astringent, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and tonic.

The medicinal raw materials of sage, namely the leaves, contain: linear, cineole, salvin, thujone, borneol, camphor, flavonoids, phytoncides, essential oils, vitamins and natural antioxidants. But the presence of acids of the Omega group: oleic, ursolic, carious and glycerides of linoleic acid makes this plant especially useful. These acids turned out to be indispensable for the human body, since they take an active part in all chemical reactions, have a pronounced antiseptic and anti-inflammatory effect, protect against damage caused to the skin by ultraviolet rays, and also protect against free radicals that cause skin aging.

St. John's wort Hypericum perforatum (Hypericum perforatum) - a plant that is widely cultivated on most continents, is often found in the wild in Europe. It is quite in demand as an active ingredient in a variety of skin care cosmetics - and this is easily explained by its healing properties.

St. John's wort grass contains a lot of useful substances. These are mainly vitamins (A, B, P and C), tannins and essential oils.

When locally applied to the skin, St. John's wort extract exhibits powerful antioxidant properties due to the high content of bioflavonoids (one of which, hypericin, was named after this plant). The key advantages of this component are expressed in its anti-inflammatory, reparative, protective and tonic effects.

Hypericum perforatum extract also soothes the skin perfectly. Its anti-inflammatory effect is due to the fact that some of its phyto compounds inhibit the activity of inflammatory mediators - this allows the use of this component for desensitization and protection of sensitive and irritated skin, including after UV damage.

In addition, St. John's wort extract has an astringent effect and has antifungal and antibacterial properties, which, given its antioxidant activity, allows this ingredient to be used for inflammatory skin diseases. St. John's wort extract also perfectly tones the skin, softens it and protects against aggressive environmental factors.

Thyme (thyme) is a perennial shrub plant with thin stems that grow on the ground.

The use of thyme in cosmetology is due to its rich chemical composition. It contains thymol, cimol, borneol, malic and acetic acids, tannins, carotene, vitamins B and C, flavonoids. Due to the high content of the component “thymol” in the thyme, the plant has pronounced disinfecting, bactericidal and anti-inflammatory properties. Thyme extract in cosmetology is used as a tonic and antimicrobial agent, it is introduced into lotions, creams and masks for normal and problem oily skin. Thyme is also an integral component of cosmetics used to treat acne.

Blue cornflower - the most famous sky blue wildflower in Russia from the genus of herbaceous plants of the aster family. The chemical composition of blue cornflower is very diverse; it contains: flavone glycoside centaurein, blue anthocyanin glycoside cyanine, essential oil, bitter, tannins, saponins, pectins, chicory, diglucosides cyanidine and pelargonidine, as well as derivatives of phenol and flavone apigenene and campferol. The flowers of the blue cornflower are also very rich in mineral salts. They contain salts of potassium, calcium, magnesium, iron, copper. Anthocyanins contained in the cornflower have a powerful antibacterial and antiviral properties.

Due to the features of reducing the rush of blood, cornflower extract is a valuable cosmetic product that allows you to reduce stress on the skin resulting from atmospheric pollution, UV radiation, sudden changes in temperature.

Lavender is a storehouse of useful substances for the skin not only from the point of view of cosmetology, but also dermatology: essential oil, acetic, valerianic, butyric, ursulic, caproic acid, cineole, borneol, tannins, geraniol, esters, resins, bitterness, gerniarin, coumarins, phytosterols, flavonoids, linalyl acetate and anthocyanins and this is not a complete list of useful substances.

Due to the specific chemical composition, lavender with regular exposure to the epidermis layers works real miracles: it activates blood circulation, quickly heals wounds, cuts, cracks, abrasions and other damage to the skin of the face, removes toxins and other impurities from the pores, protects the skin from harmful external factors, relieves edema, having a lymphatic drainage effect, has a calming effect, has an anti-inflammatory effect, rejuvenates, makes the skin supple and elastic, smoothes deep wrinkles, reduces the production of sebum, is an excellent antiseptic, manifests in all its glory antifungal and antibacterial properties.

Rose petals - deciduous or evergreen shrubs, belong to the family of rose hips. The flower petals of this shrub contain about 300 components, among which are nerol, citronemol, phenylethanol, geraniol, various sugars, fatty oils, quercetins, anthocyanins, organic acids, as well as a large number of minerals and vitamins. The role of rose petals in cosmetology is difficult to overestimate, due to its composition, it relieves tension and soothes irritated skin, evens complexion, smoothes skin texture and stimulates tissue regeneration, deeply moisturizes and softens the skin, prevents skin from losing moisture, relieves dermatitis, normalizes the functioning of sebaceous glands, tightens pores, and also effectively fights scars and scars. Using cosmetics, which contain rose petals, the skin will become fresher, the tone of the face will even out, the color will become more healthy. The skin will become soft, smooth, moisturized, as if nourished from the inside.

Peppermint is a fragrant plant in the family Lamiaceae. The basis of the plant is composed of essential oils: menthol (up to 65%), limonene, cineole, esters of isovaleric and acetic acids, terpenoids, all parts of the plant contain vitamins C, PP and group B, arginine, as well as trace elements, organic and fatty acids, tannins substances, bitterness, flavonoids and other chemical and biologically active compounds. The main active ingredient - menthol perfectly cools and refreshes the skin, stimulates blood circulation and strengthens blood vessels, removes toxins and soothes irritated skin, has a local anesthetic effect, normalizes the functioning of the sebaceous glands and dries the skin, has a pronounced antiseptic and wound healing effect. Due to this, mint is effective in the treatment of acne and various inflammatory skin diseases.

Vitamins and minerals provide the skin with the necessary nutrition and normalize all important metabolic processes. Arginine accelerates the healing process of tissues.

Organic acids effectively eliminate pigmentation, brighten the surface of the epidermis, dissolve dead cells and give the skin a special softness and purity.

White lilac extract (paradise tree, cypress, lilac) is a shrub with very fragrant flowers collected in panicles, most often lilac or white. Healing components are endowed with buds, inflorescences, bark and lilac leaves.

The main components of the chemical composition are essential oil and syringin glucoside. It is this last substance that gives the lilacs antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and analgesic qualities, and also affects the production and secretion of sebum, therefore it effectively prevents the occurrence of acne. In addition, well-known ascorbic acid was found in flowers, leaves and bark, which helps to increase immunity and normalize cell metabolism.

The plant extract also contains verbascidosis glycoside - the antioxidant properties of this chemical compound are four times the effect of ascorbic acid.

Cosmetics, which contain lilacs, have a good cleansing effect, relieves inflammation that occurs on the skin. They are extremely saturated with phytoestrogens, vitamins, minerals, organic acids, as well as tannic components. All these components are indispensable in the care of problem skin prone to oily, with enlarged pores and pustular rashes on it.

Kiwi extract - a useful berry, originally from distant China.

Kiwi fruit contains more vitamin C than any of the citrus fruits, in addition, it contains high concentrations of all B vitamins. This fruit is also saturated with sodium, potassium, iron, phosphorus, magnesium, beta-carotene and various organic acids. In addition, kiwi contains unique actinidia and papain enzymes that cleanse the skin of protein contaminants, secretions of sebaceous and sweat glands, dead cells of the stratum corneum and have a beneficial effect on strengthening the walls of blood capillaries. So, thanks to the rich vitamin and mineral content, kiwi has been widely used in cosmetology.

Cosmetics, in which a component of kiwi is present, helps soften the skin and make it velvety, restore complexion and improve skin elasticity. Kiwi is also indispensable in cosmetic products that are used against skin aging, as a large number of nutrients helps smooth out small wrinkles. Such cosmetics provide the skin with essential nutrients and is an ideal aid in skin care.

A high concentration of fruit acids allows the use of products based on kiwi juice as a powerful anti-age agent.

Seaweed extract. Algae are photosynthetic organisms that live in the aquatic environment. In cosmetology, the beneficial properties of algae are used to improve the appearance of the face and body.

The mineral composition of algae is as close as possible to the composition of human blood plasma. Therefore, they are very physiological in the body.

Algae are extremely rich in beneficial substances.

They contain:

- alginic acid and its salts (alginates), which bind and remove toxins from the body, perfectly moisturize and heal;

- amino acids that participate in all cellular processes, help to absorb vitamins and minerals, are part of the skin’s natural moisturizing factor;

- polysaccharides and lipids involved in the regeneration of skin cells;

- calcium, magnesium, potassium, manganese, sodium, phosphorus, sulfur - the building material of cells, protein and lipid aides;

- zinc, nickel, copper, iron, strontium, boron, bromine, which are part of vital enzymes and hormones;

- vitamins A, C, D, E, F, K, PP and all vitamins of group B.

Different types of seaweed have their advantages and applications.

Aloe vera extract is one of the most famous succulents with powerful therapeutic properties. Aloe is widely used in traditional medicine, pharmaceuticals and cosmetology recipes.

In addition to a huge amount of vitamins and minerals, aloe contains more than 75 different valuable organic compounds, including enzymes, sugars, amino acids, anthraquinones, lignins, saponins, sterols, salicylic acid, as well as minerals.

Aloe extract, when applied topically, enhances local immunity, activates cellular metabolism, stimulates the protective functions of the epidermis, increases the elasticity and hydration of the skin, levels the destructive effect of free radicals on cells, and prevents the development of inflammatory phenomena that accompany acne and other rashes.

Suitable for all skin types, the juice of this plant will simultaneously saturate dehydrated dry skin with moisture and soothe irritated and inflamed skin.

Aloe Vera gel is a translucent jelly-like component that is extracted from aloe leaves and then concentrated about ten times in order to obtain a product with a high concentration of assets. To obtain raw materials, substance is extracted from under the skin of aloe, this gel contains many nutrients. Modern analysis has shown that the pulp of aloe contains about two hundred different substances, each of which has biological activity. So one of the most important components are polysaccharides. Aloe polysaccharides are called glucomannans, as they are composed of glucose and mannose molecules.

The main polysaccharide of aloe is atemannan. When the gel is applied to the skin, long-chain polysaccharides polymerize and form a semipermeable film, which not only has moisturizing properties, but also makes the skin soft and soft. However, in addition to such a superficial, purely “cosmetic” and temporary effect, aloe gel also has a deeper effect. The most remarkable property is the ability to activate nonspecific local immunity by acting on mobile phagocytic cells - macrophages.

Pretty soon it became known that not all polysaccharides equally activate macrophages. Experiments have shown that Acemannan, an aloe vera polysaccharide, does have this property.

Aloe vera also contains: aloin, pectin, tannins, flavonoids, various vitamins (A, B, C, E), organic acids, more than 20 minerals and 18 amino acids, which are aimed at repairing damaged cells.

Aloe vera gel also contains allantoin - a substance with a powerful moisturizing effect, since it is able to penetrate deep into the skin and deliver other components there. Therefore, creams and masks based on aloe vera retain moisture in the skin and contribute to its regeneration, and also help restore the structure of skin cells. The gel also saturates the skin with vitamins and minerals important for the skin.

Rosewood essential oil is a distillate of soaked shavings, which is obtained by chopping wood from the core of the plant. It has a pronounced floral-woody aroma. It goes well with other essential oils, it is considered absolutely non-allergenic and is a safe product. Like any essential oil, it is a very multi-component system. The main component of the oil is linalool, up to 85%, it contains geraniol, alpha-terpineol, nerol, depaneten, ketones, aldehydes, citral and other components. According to experts, many of these substances are present only in rosewood oil. This makes the product unique.

From a cosmetological point of view, rosewood has bactericidal, calming, restoring properties, equally with softening and stimulating. So, the oil is perfect for sensitive and mature skin, it increases not only elasticity or firmness, but also the protective ability of the epidermis, the skin is tightened, fine wrinkles are removed, velvety and smoothness returns.

Shea butter (shea butter) is isolated from the fruit pulp of the Shea tree (shea butter, Vitellaria). Shea butter has a pleasant and light nutty flavor, sometimes with a slight note of coconut. The consistency of the product is solid, remains so at temperatures up to 27 degrees, with increasing temperature, the oil quickly melts. Such a feature of his makes it convenient to use in skin care.

Among unsaponifiable substances, caritosterols are present. They help restore the protective function of the skin and are able to get deeper into the epidermis, activating the strong production of collagen - the main condition for beautiful and smooth skin.

Shea butter also contains terpene alcohols, vitamins A and E and catechins that fight inflammation, inhibit free radical activity and help maintain skin elasticity.

Shea butter also exhibits moisturizing and nourishing properties that allow it to be used on absolutely any type of skin, including sensitive skin.

Wheat germ oil - among plant products, wheat germ oil is considered a unique product that preserves health and supports beauty. This oil is extracted using a cold pressing technique from sprouted wheat, directly from its sprouts.

The high efficiency of the oil is due to the strength of its constituent components: amino acids (leucine, valine, methionine, tryptophan, etc.), phytosterols, polyunsaturated fatty acids (omega-3, omega-6, omega-9), vitamins (B ₁ , B ₂ , B ₃ , B ₆ , B ₉ , E, A, D), antioxidants (allantoin, squalene, octacosanol), trace elements (zinc, selenium, phosphorus, manganese, iron, copper, sulfur, calcium, iodine), which determine it amazing properties and prevalence of use, including in the field of cosmetology.

A distinctive feature of wheat germ oil compared to most vegetable oils is its high content of “youth vitamin” E (tocopherol) - only 100 g of wheat germ oil contains 400 mg of this powerful natural antioxidant, it is worth noting that wheat germ oil Vitamin E is present in the most active alpha-tocopherol form.

Sulfur is a chemical element that is contained, including in our body, as part of amino acids and sulfates. The mass fraction of this element in the human body is about 0.25%. The daily need for sulfur in an adult is 500-1200 mg. Sulfur penetrates best through the skin, where it turns into sulfides and sulfates, which then enter the bloodstream and are excreted by the kidneys.

Sulfur is involved in the most important metabolic processes of the body. It is part of absolutely all proteins, including hormones and enzymes.

A significant role is played by sulfur in the inflammatory reactions of the body, which is expressed in the inhibition of all three stages of this process by suppressing inflammatory mediators and reducing lipid peroxidation. At the same time, organosulfur compounds stimulate the processes of reparative regeneration. Because of this property alone, sulfur can be called the queen of macronutrients. The main beneficial properties of sulfur for the skin: it maintains the oxygen balance in the skin, makes it more elastic, the antiseptic properties of sulfur allow you to suppress the bacteria that cause rashes, tightens pores, which reduces the likelihood of acne and black spots, and can have a slight analgesic effect on foci of inflammation.

Zinc oxide is an almost insoluble white or colorless crystalline powder in water. This is a very common component that can be found in almost any cosmetic or hygiene product. It participates in the synthesis of collagen, a vital element for the healing and restoration of cell tissues, denaturing proteins and forms albuminates, thereby, when applied to damaged skin, it reduces the severity of exudative processes and reduces local manifestations of irritation and inflammation. Able to form a protective layer on the skin, limiting the impact on it of adverse and irritating factors.

As an auxiliary substance in cosmetic products, zinc oxide is used as a protective antioxidant and preservative, as a stabilizer and thickener, an additional component for whitening, and also as a lubricant.

White clay (kaolin) is an amorphous finely divided white powder, greasy to the touch. It is well softened by water. Hygroscopic, has adhesive and absorbent properties. Non toxic The basis of kaolin contains aluminosilicates. In addition to them, white clay contains dozens of trace elements and healing salts that have a tonic, cleansing and healing effect on the skin, hair, teeth and internal organs.

Clay is enriched with useful minerals such as potassium, magnesium, calcium, zinc, silicon.

The properties that this clay has are unparalleled. The main effect of cosmetic clay is cleansing and drying of the skin. It absorbs excess sebum and secretions of sweat glands, eliminates pollution that is on the skin.

It is also important that white clay is able to absorb poisons and toxins, is the strongest natural “antibiotic”. Kaolin has a slightly alkaline reaction. Its pH is 7.0-8.0. Due to this feature, the substance perfectly affects the human body and stimulates the process of combating free radicals.

The healing effect of clay extends to the blood vessels of the skin, which again become elastic after cosmetic masks.

Pearl powder is one of the most famous means of traditional Chinese medicine. On the one hand, we can say that it is a stone, but on the other, that it is a representative of organic life.

It is made from natural river pearls, in terms of chemical composition it is a harmonious complex of calcium compounds, 18 amino acids, 18 trace elements, as well as vitamin D and group B vitamins.

The main components of pearl powder are calcium salts: this is aragonite - a unique, bioavailable organic calcium that is able to be absorbed by our body and calcium carbonate.

Pearl powder is a multifunctional product. Due to the fine and delicate abrasive particles, pearl powder is perfect for dry and sensitive skin.

Allantoin is a crystalline substance, white, odorless, which is obtained as a result of aerobic decomposition of purine nucleotides.

It is found in humans and animals in allantois fluid, urine, and in amniotic fluid. Allantoin is formed during the oxidation of uric acid by the uricase enzyme.

Allantoin in its composition contains ingredients that are beneficial to our skin. It consists of: mucopolysaccharides, glucose, glycosides, fructose, carotenes. Allantoin is able to penetrate deep into the dermal layers of the face, stimulating tissue renewal at the cellular level. It is not absorbed by the blood, but it is perfectly absorbed into the skin, drying out without application after application almost instantly.

Its basic property is the ability to participate in the process of neoplasm of cells through their division and reproduction. In other words, after allantoin is applied to the skin, cells quickly regenerate due to their proliferation. It also softens the stratum corneum, stimulates the removal of dead cells. Due to this property, allantoin effectively prevents clogging of pores, the formation of comedones and inflammatory elements.

Allantoin has an antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory effect, which contributes to the rapid and effective treatment of a number of skin diseases. It effectively exfoliates the skin, which contributes to the thinning of the stratum corneum of the epidermis and its regular renewal.

Panthenol belongs to enantiomers, i.e. there are two forms of D and L. But only D-panthenol (dexpanthenol) is biologically active. The low molecular weight of dexpanthenol, hydrophilicity and low polarity make it possible for active substances to penetrate into all layers of the skin.

D-panthenol is widely used in cosmetics due to its dermatological and conditioning properties, it acts as a deeply penetrating moisturizer, restores the water-lipid balance in the skin, stimulates epithelization, normalizes cellular metabolism, increases the strength of collagen fibers, serves to heal wounds, has powerful antioxidant properties , increases the production of protective pigment and reduces the damaging effects of ultraviolet rays, exhibits anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effect, and also creates a protective film on the skin, which has a long moisturizing effect.

Technology for the preparation of a cosmetic mask film in the form of a gel.

Preparation of extracts of herbs. A weighed sample of grass (450.0 ± 0.1) g is poured into a linen bag, tightly tied and placed in a reactor with 9 l of purified water heated to (95 ± 0.1) ° С. The reactor is closed with a lid. Extraction is carried out within 18-20 hours. At the end of the exposure, the bag of grass is removed from the reactor, squeezed. The wet residue of the herbs is disposed of.

Next, dry ingredients are weighed (sulfur, polyvinyl alcohol, zinc oxide, PEG 4000 polyethylene glycol, kaolin, pearl powder, carboxymethyl cellulose, sodium alginate, dry extracts of herbs) in accordance with the recipe of examples 1-10 and load them into the mixer and mix for 1- 2 minutes to obtain a dry, homogeneous mixture.

Preparation of a cosmetic mask in the form of a gel. Contribute to the resulting dry mixture in the reactor with water or a liquid extract of herbs. Heated to (95 ± 0.1) ° C with blank steam, with constant stirring. The process is carried out until a homogeneous gel-like mass is obtained, after which the reactor is cooled to (35.0 ± 5.0) ° C.

Add additives to the resulting mass (ethyl alcohol, aloe extract, aloe gel, glycerin, white lilac extract, decapril, maltitol, allontoin, D-panthenol, wheat germ oil, rosewood essential oil, Shea butter, kiwi extract, algae extract) according to the formulation of examples 1-10 and stirred for 1 hour.

Download the resulting product in the form of a gel in a metal container for packaging. Cosmetic face mask packaged in consumer packaging net weight of 10 g; 15 g; 100 g in jars of polymer material with a screw cap or tube, or sachet.

Mode of application. Apply the mask with light movements to previously cleansed face skin along the massage lines, avoiding the area around the eyes. Can be used for neck and décolleté. The full drying time of the mask depends on temperature and humidity, and, as a rule, is about 30 minutes. After drying, gently remove the mask with one layer in the direction from the bottom up, previously slightly disconnecting it at the edges. Additional washing after applying the mask film is not required. Apply 1-2 times a week.

Benefits

1. Consumer properties:

- optimal texture and consistency, allowing easy application in an even layer;

- keeps well after application, does not drain;

- easy removal "in one layer";

- the participation of a specialist (cosmetologist) is not required for use; can be used at home unlike most alginate masks;

- can be used for face, neck and décolleté skin;

- pronounced cosmetic effect when using both the basic composition, and with the addition of active cosmetic components.

2. Qualitative characteristics:

- the ability to use only the basic structure;

- compatibility with almost all components used in cosmetics; the possibility of production based on the basic composition of alginate mask-films for different skin types, aimed at correcting various cosmetic problems;

- does not contain sulfates, parabens (this applies to consumer properties).

The manufacture of cosmetic masks is carried out in accordance with the international standard GOST 31460-2012 “Cosmetic creams. General specifications. "

According to the requirements of the Technical Regulation of the Customs Union TP TS 009/2011 "On the safety of perfumes and cosmetics", the accredited laboratory tested organoleptic qualities, pH, thermal stability, microbiological parameters, toxicological parameters in vitro, irritating and sensitizing effects on the skin and mucous membranes as well as tests for the content of toxic elements. According to the results of the tests, cosmetic masks meet the requirements of TP TS 009/2011.

To assess consumer properties and the effect on the skin of various options for cosmetic masks, a series of experiments on volunteers was conducted. The experiments involved 38 women aged 25 to 60 years, who during the month 2-3 times a week used one of the types of masks. The duration of the experiment corresponded to a cycle of skin renewal, which takes place on average in 28 days. In order to create a fairly homogeneous group for the experiment, volunteers were selected who systematically use leaving cosmetic products in everyday life, are in approximately equal economic and social conditions. At the same time, the experiment did not include persons with borderline conditions, the presence of altered and / or pathological skin (for example, acne, damaged, irritated, sunburned skin, postoperative scars), since these conditions do not belong to the field of application of cosmetics.

Evaluation of the results of the experiments included:

1) the results of the study of organoleptic properties (color, smell, perception to the touch);

2) the results of the study of consumer properties (texture and consistency, ease of application, retention on the skin, the presence / absence of dripping, ease of removal, the possibility of independent use);

3) subjective assessment by volunteers of the effect obtained;

4) expert studies with the participation of a specialist cosmetologist-dermatologist;

5) instrumental measurements.

The participants in the experiment were divided into 5 groups depending on the direction of action of the cosmetic mask (table 1).

The results of the evaluation of cosmetic masks by volunteers are presented in table 2.

To process the results of the experiment, a questionnaire was compiled, in which each volunteer could evaluate the cosmetic mask he used on a 5-point scale: 5 - excellent; 4 - good; 3 - medium; 2 - bad; 1 - very bad.

Also, some questions were answered with “yes” or “no”.

If you do not want to continue the experiment, the volunteer had the right to leave the group, in which case a volunteer replacement was supposed. During the study, only one volunteer was replaced in exchange for another, who retired due to a disease that required surgical treatment, which did not allow him to continue to use the mask being studied.

The results of the visual assessment of cosmetic masks by a specialist of a cosmetologist-dermatologist are presented in table 3. Visual assessment was performed immediately before and after the experiment, after 1 month of using cosmetic masks. Visual assessment was also carried out on a 5-point system.

The results of the hardware (instrumental) assessment of cosmetic masks by a specialist of a cosmetologist-dermatologist are presented in table 4. Computer diagnostics were performed immediately before and after the experiment, after 1 month of applying cosmetic masks. For the convenience of processing the results and their visibility, the initial level of the skin condition of the subjects was taken as 100%. The skin condition of the subjects was evaluated by such functional indicators as elasticity, moisture, the level of secretion of the sebaceous glands, the length, width and depth of small wrinkles and fine lines, the severity of rosacea (state of capillaries).

According to subjective assessments of the participants in the experiment (table 3) and instrumental assessment (table 4) of the skin condition before and after the use of cosmetic masks, a positive dynamics of the main functional parameters of the skin was revealed. Skin elasticity increased on average by 1.08%, skin hydration - by 19.76%, the length of fine wrinkles and fine lines decreased by 2.02%, width - by 3.58%, depth - by 7.44%. Almost all participants in the experiment normalized the secretion of the sebaceous glands, the complexion of the skin improved, and the oval of the face tightened. In subjects with signs of rosacea, there was a decrease in its severity.

Thus, from the above description of the compositions (examples 1-10) of the claimed cosmetic mask film, the characteristics of the ingredients, its use on volunteers and experimental evaluation of consumer properties (table 1-4) of the mask confirms the achievement of the claimed technical result, which is to expand the spectrum cosmetic effects of the mask on the skin and increase the usability of the cosmetic mask due to the rapid formation of an elastic-elastic film after applying cosmetic gel to the skin destruction resistant, firmly held on the face or other area of the skin during cosmetic procedures due to its adhesive properties and easily removed after use (easily removed as a whole film).

The inventive mask film allows, if necessary, to actively move it to the user in the process of cosmetic procedures.

Claims (9)

1. Cosmetic mask film for facial skin care, which has lifting, exfoliating, anti-aging, restoring, cleansing, tonic and moisturizing effects, including sodium alginate, target additives and an aqueous solvent, characterized in that the mask contains carboxymethyl cellulose, polyvinyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol PEG-4000, as an aqueous solvent, the mask contains water or aqueous extracts of medicinal herbs, with the following quantitative content of the components of the composition, wt.%: sodium alginate 0.1-1.0 carboxymethyl cellulose 0.1-1.0 polyvinyl alcohol 0.1-10.0 polyethylene glycol PEG-4000 0.1-5.0 targeted supplements 0.4-30.0 water or water extracts of medicinal herbs the rest is up to 100% 2. The film mask according to claim 1, characterized in that to obtain a mask film that provides a lifting and moisturizing effect, it contains ethyl alcohol, glycerin, dicaprilil and maltitol as target additives. 3. The film mask according to claim 1, characterized in that to obtain a mask film with active exfoliation of the skin as target additives, it contains ethyl alcohol, glycerin, dicapril, maltitol, kaolin, pearl powder, allantoin, wheat germ oil, extract algae, D-panthenol, aloe vera extract, and as an aqueous extract of medicinal herbs - an aqueous extract of St. John's wort, an aqueous extract of lavender and an aqueous extract of chamomile. 4. The film mask according to claim 1, characterized in that to obtain a mask film anti-aging as the target additives, it contains ethyl alcohol, glycerin, dicapril, maltitol, allantoin, wheat germ oil, Shea butter, D-panthenol, Gold mother of pearl , dry extract of calendula, dry extract of thyme, dry extract of sage, dry extract of oregano, and purified water as an aqueous solvent. 5. The film-mask according to claim 1, characterized in that, to obtain a mask-film for skin restoration, as target additives it contains ethyl alcohol, glycerin, dicaprilil, maltitol, contains allantoin, wheat germ oil, seaweed extract, D- panthenol, and as water extracts of medicinal herbs - water extract of oregano, water extract of calendula, water extract of cornflower. 6. The film mask according to claim 1, characterized in that to obtain a mask film for deep cleansing of the skin as target additives, it contains ethyl alcohol, glycerin, dicapril, maltitol, aloe vera extract, sulfur, zinc oxide, white lilac extract , allantoin, wheat germ oil, seaweed extract, D-panthenol, and as an aqueous extract of medicinal herbs - water extract of mint. 7. The film mask according to claim 1, characterized in that to obtain a mask film for moisturizing the skin as target additives, it contains ethyl alcohol, glycerin, dicapril, maltitol, aloe vera gel, allantoin, wheat germ oil, seaweed extract , D-panthenol, and as water extracts of medicinal herbs - water extract of oregano, water extract of calendula, water extract of thyme, water extract of chamomile, water extract of sage and water extract of rose flower petals. 8. The film mask according to claim 1, characterized in that to obtain a mask film to enhance skin tone, as target additives, it contains ethyl alcohol, glycerin, dicapril, maltitol, cranberries, allantoin, wheat germ oil, D-panthenol, mother-of-pearl Fire Red 333, dry marigold extract, dry chamomile extract, dry sage extract, and purified water as an aqueous solvent. ”