RU2642725C2 - Method to produce fabrics of cross zigzag shadow weaves - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: textile, paper.

SUBSTANCE: method to produce fabrics of crossed zig-zag shadow weaves, consisting in forming on the surface of a tissue teeth arranged along an ascending or descending line formed by oblique surround light bands, changing their width and direction along the length of the fabric, in choosing the basic weave of the main class and one of the yarn systems as active, forming the original shadow weave along the passive system of threads with increasing single overlaps in the steps along the base or along the weft; in the choice of the number of weft threads K_y before the break in the weft, the formation of the first and second fragments of the first tooth and the tooth as a whole, followed by the formation of the second tooth. The rapport is determined on the basis of the R_o of the transverse zigzag shadow weave according to the mathematical expressions: - with the active filament yarn system: - for the odd rapport R_b of the base weave R_o=2R_b[R_b (R_b-1)-1]; - for an even rapport R_b R_o=R_b[R_b(R_b-1)-1]; - with the active system of warp threads and any rapport R_b R_o=2 [R_b(R_b-1)-1]; take the magnitude of the shift of the vertices ±S_b, varying multiply the rapport R_b of the base weave with the active weft system within R_b≤|S_v|≤R_o-R_b, with the active main yarn system within R_b≤|S_v|≤R_o-2(R_b-1) warp yarns, then take the number of weft yams K_y to kink in each denticle, taking into account that on the one hand the number of filaments K_y≥|S_c|+R_b+2, on the other hand, with the active yarn system K_y≥2[R_b(R_b-1)-1], with the active warp yarn system and odd rapport, R_b, the number of yarns K_y≥2R_b[R_b(R_b-1)-1], and for the even repeat R₆ K_y≥R_b[R_b(R_b-1)-1] weft threads; the rapport R_z of the tooth is determined, the number n_z of teeth in the rapport along the weft and the rapport along the weft R_y of the transverse zigzag shadow weave according to the mathematical expressions: R_z=2K_y-[S_c]-2; n_z=LCM=(R_o,S_c)/S_c (LCM - the least common multiple); R_y=R_zn_z. Then on the basis of the source of the shadow weave form oblique light streaks in the first and second fragments of the first teeth and cog in general cross shadow zigzag weave the K_y, R_z and R_o threads; the formation of the second and subsequent teeth exercise, bearing in mind the shift number of vertices ±S_c and number of teeth n_z.

EFFECT: multivariance of the interlacing of the teeth and the possibility of varying within a wide range of the angle of lifting or lowering the line of teeth of the volume crossed zigzags.

5 dwg

Description

The invention relates to the production of textile materials and for the manufacture of fabrics of shadow weaves produced on looms equipped with a jacquard machine.

A known method of producing fabrics of diagonal weaves with zigzag embossed stripes that change their direction along the length of the fabric [RF patent 2298052, IPC D03D 23/00 (2006.01). A method of obtaining fabrics of diagonal weaves / Maletskaya S.V., Maletsky V.V .; Applicant and patent holder State educational institution of higher professional education “Ulyanovsk State Technical University”. No. 2005137618/12; declared 12/02/2005; publ. 04/27/2007, - 4 p., 6 ill.]. On the surface of the fabric receive a relief pattern consisting of teeth located in an ascending or descending line.

The disadvantage of the analogue method is that the use of basic diagonal weaves does not allow to obtain the visual effect of a volumetric transverse zigzag pattern on the surface of the fabric, consisting of teeth located along an ascending or descending line.

The prototype adopted a method of obtaining transverse zigzag shadow weaves, creating a visual effect of a volumetric transverse zigzag pattern on the surface of the fabric, consisting of teeth located along an ascending or descending line, formed by inclined volumetric light stripes that change their direction twice in a rapport of the pattern along the length of the fabric [patent 2478147 RF, IPC D03D 23/00 (2006.01). A method of obtaining fabrics of transverse zigzag shadow weaves / Tolubeeva G.I .; Applicant and patent holder Federal State Budgetary Educational Institution of Higher Professional Education "Ivanovo State Textile Academy" (IGTA). No. 20111154274/12; declared 12/30/2011; publ. 03/27/2013, - 17 p., 8 ill.]. The transverse zigzag weave is formed using the initial shadow weave obtained on the basis of twill or satin of the main class with rapport with the transition from weft to main and vice versa, or vice versa, performing positive (when forming the ascending line of the teeth) or negative (when forming the descending line of the teeth) shift of the rapport of the initial shadow weave by the size of one step. In a rapport of a zigzag shadow weave, only two teeth are formed. In each tooth, the direction of inclination of the light strips is reversed after the received amount K _{y of} weft threads. The second tooth of rapport is obtained by shifting the first tooth to the right or left by the number of warp threads, equal to the shift of the vertices ± S _in = R _b (R _b -1). The volume of strips and teeth is obtained by forming the reverse light transition of the original shadow weave with the number of steps equal to the number of steps of the direct light transition, its mirror image.

The disadvantage of the prototype method is the limited number of options for weaving teeth and the inability to obtain a wide range of angles of raising or lowering the line of teeth of the volumetric transverse zigzags, which narrows the range of fabrics of combined shadow weaves.

The technical result of the invention is to ensure the multivariance of the interweaving of the teeth and the possibility of varying within wide limits the angle of rise or lowering of the line of the teeth of the volumetric transverse zigzags.

The specified technical result is achieved by the fact that in the method for producing fabrics of transverse zigzag shadow weaves, which consists in the formation on the surface of the fabric of teeth located along an ascending or descending line, formed by inclined volumetric light strips that change their width and direction along the length of the fabric, in the choice of basic weave main class and one of the systems of threads as active, forming the initial shadow weave along the passive system of threads with reinforcement of single coverings in steps along the warp or along the weft; in the selection of the number of weft threads K _y before kink in the weft, the formation of the first and second fragments of the first tooth and the tooth as a whole with the subsequent formation of the second tooth, according to the invention, the rapport is determined based on R _{o of the} transverse zigzag shadow weave according to mathematical expressions:

- with an active weft thread system:

- with an odd rapport of R _{b of the} base weave

- with even rapport R _b

- with an active warp system and any rapport R _b

take the vertex shift value ± S _in , changing multiple of the repeat weave R _b with an active system of weft threads within R _b ≤ | S _in | ≤R _o -R _b with an active system of warp threads within R _b ≤ | S _in | ≤ R _o -2 (R _b -1) warp threads, then take the number of weft threads K _y to break in the weft in each tooth, given that on the one hand the number of threads K _y ≥ | S _in | + R _b +2, s on the other hand, with the active system of weft threads K _y ≥2 [R _b (R _b -1) -1], with the active system of warp threads and odd rapport R _{b the} number of threads K _y ≥2R _b [R _b (R _b -1) -1], and with even rapport R _b K _y ≥R _b [R _b (R _b -1) -1] weft threads; determine the rapport R _{z of the} tooth, the number n _{z of} teeth in the rapport for the weft and the rapport for the duck R _{y of the} transverse zigzag shadow weave according to mathematical expressions:

after which, on the basis of the initial shadow weave, inclined light strips are formed in the first and second fragments of the first tooth and the tooth of the entire transverse zigzag shadow weave, taking into account the obtained K _y , R _s and R _o threads; the formation of the second and subsequent teeth is carried out taking into account the accepted value of the shift of the vertices ± S _in and the obtained number of teeth n _s .

The technical result, which consists in ensuring the multivariance of the interweaving of the teeth and the possibility of varying within a wide range of the angle of rise or lowering of the line of the teeth of the volumetric transverse zigzags, is achieved by changing the repeat weave of the base interweaving of the magnitude of the shift of the vertices of the individual teeth over a wide range; a change in the number of weft threads to break in each tooth; the formation of the number of teeth necessary for completing the rapport of the weaving, depending on the rapport of the base weaving of the main class and the accepted value of the shift of the peaks of the teeth. To increase the angle of rise (lowering) of the ascending (descending) line of the teeth with an unchanged number of weft threads to break the straight diagonal in the teeth, the vertex shift should be increased, taking into account that this reduces the rapport and the length of the reverse diagonal of each tooth. With a constant shift of the tops of the teeth, an increase in the number of weft threads to a kink of the straight diagonal in each tooth leads to an increase in the rapport of each tooth and weave as a whole, a decrease in the angle of rise or fall of the line of the teeth of the shadow zigzag weave.

The invention is illustrated by drawings, where

- in FIG. Figure 1 shows the sequence of constructing a transverse zigzag shadow weave with an ascending tooth line, with an active system of warp threads and the formation of the initial shadow weave along the weft obtained on the basis of twill 1/3 with an even rapport of the base twill R _b = 4 threads, vertex shift equal to S _in = +16 warp threads, and with a kink along the weft equal to K _y = 44 weft threads: 1-a) basic weave twill 1/3; 1-b) the initial shadow weave with reinforcement of single main floors along the base up; 1-c) the first fragment of the first tooth with the slope of the light strips to the right; 1-g) the second fragment of the first tooth; 1-e) and 1-e) the first and second teeth of the transverse zigzag shadow weave; 1-g) a fragment of the transverse zigzag shadow weave: five rapports on the base and seven teeth from eleven rapports on the weft;

- in FIG. 2 shows the sequence of constructing a transverse zigzag shadow weave with an ascending line of teeth, with an active system of warp threads and the formation of the initial shadow weave along the weft, obtained on the basis of atlas 5/2 with an odd rapport of R _b = 5 threads, a vertex shift equal to S _in = + 30 warp threads, and with a kink along the weft equal to K _y = 190 yarn weft: 2-a) basic weave atlas 5/2; 2-b) the initial shadow weave with reinforcement of single weft overlaps along the weft to the right; 2-c) the first fragment of the first tooth with the slope of the light strips to the right; 2-g) the second fragment of the first tooth; 2-e) the first tooth of the longitudinal zigzag shadow weave; 2-e) a fragment of a rapport of a transverse zigzag shadow weave: two teeth of 348 s3bts in a rapport are shown along the weft, two rapports on the base;

- in FIG. 3 shows the sequence of constructing a transverse zigzag shadow weave with an ascending tooth line, with an active system of weft threads and obtaining the initial shadow weave along the warp obtained on the basis of twill 1/3 with an even rapport of the base twill R _b = 4 threads, the vertex shift equal to S _in = +12 warp threads, and with a kink along the weft equal to K _y = 28 weft threads: 3-a) basic weave twill 1/3; 3-b) the initial shadow weave with reinforcement of single main floors along the base up; 3-c) the first fragment of the first tooth with the slope of the light strips to the right; 3-g) the second fragment of the first tooth; 3-e) and 3-e) the first and second tooth of the transverse zigzag shadow weave; 3-g) a pattern of transverse zigzag shadow weave, based on two rapports are shown;

- in FIG. 4 the same, weaving obtained on the basis of atlas 5/3 with an odd rapport of R _b = 5 threads, a shift of the peaks equal to S _in = +30 warp threads, and with a kink along the weft equal to K _y = 60 threads of weft: 4- a) basic weave atlas 5/3; 4-b) the initial shadow weave with reinforcement of single weft overlaps along the weft to the right; 4-c) the first fragment of the first tooth with the slope of the light strips to the right; 4-g) the second fragment of the first tooth; 4-e) the first tooth of the transverse zigzag shadow weave; 4-e) fragment of the weave repeat: on the weft, four teeth out of 19 in the rapport are shown, on the basis of the three rapports are shown;

- in FIG. 5 shows the construction sequence of the inventive weave obtained according to the conditions of the example shown in FIG. 3, but with the formation of a downward line of the teeth with the slope of the light strips in the direct diagonals of each tooth to the left.

An example of the practical implementation of the method.

On the surface of the fabric receive teeth located, for example, in an ascending line with the possibility of changing the angle of its rise, for which they accept the basic weft (satin or twill) weave of the main class, for example, twill 1/3 (Fig. 1-a) or the main ( satin or twill) weaving of the main class, for example, atlas 5/2 (Fig. 2-a), with a rapport equal to 1/3 R _b = 4 threads for twill, for R 5/2 atlas - R _b = 5 threads; take one of the yarn systems as active, for example, warp, the second weft system as passive. Along the passive system of threads, the initial shadow weave is formed, reinforcing single ceilings in each step along the warp (Fig. 1-b) or along the weft (Fig. 2-b). The rapport of the transverse zigzag shadow weave is determined according to the formula (3): for the first example: R _o = 2 [4 (4-1) -1] = 22 threads, for the second example: R _o = 2 [5 (5-1 ) -1] = 38 threads. The angle of elevation of the ascending line of the teeth on the surface of the tissue is set by the vertex shift value S _in , changing multiple of the repeat R _b with an active warp system within R _b ≤ | S _in | ≤ R _o -2 (R _b -1): for the first example 4 ≤ | S _in | ≤22-2 (4-1), 4≤ | S _in | ≤16, we take S _in = 16 warp threads; for the second example, 5≤ | S _in | ≤38-2 (5-1), 5≤ | S _in | ≤30, we take S _in = 30 warp threads. Take the number K _{y of} weft yarns before breaking in the weft, given that, firstly, K _y ≥S _in + R _b +2: for the first example, K _y ≥16 + 4 + 2≥22, for the second example, K _y ≥30 + 5 + 2≥37 weft threads, secondly, with an active warp system, with even rapport R _b : K _y ≥R _b [R _b (R _b -1) -1] weft threads, with odd - K _y ≥2R _b [R _b (R _b -1) -1]: for the first example (R _b is even) K _y ≥4 [4 (4-1) -1] ≥44, for the second example (R _b is odd ) K _at ≥2⋅5 [5 (5-1) -1] ≥190 weft threads. Given both limitations, we take K _y = 44 for the first example, and K _y = 190 weft threads for the second example. Determine the rapport of the tooth according to the formula (4), for the first example R _s = 2K _y - [S _in ] -2 = 2⋅44-16-2 = 70 threads, the number of teeth in the rapport according to the duck according to the formula (5): n _s = NOC = (R _o , S _c ) / S _c ) = NOC (22.16) / 16 = 176/16 = 11 teeth

and duck rapport according to the formula (6) R _y = R _s n _s = 70⋅11 = 770 threads, for the second example:

R _s = 2⋅190-30-2 = 348 threads;

n _s = NOC (190.30) / 30 = 570/30 = 19 teeth;

R _y = 348⋅19 = 6612 threads.

On the basis of the original shadow weave, light streaks are inclined to the right in the first fragment of the first tooth containing R _o × K _{in the} threads: in the first example 22 × 44 threads (Fig. 1-c), in the second example 38 × 190 threads (Fig. 2 -at). A second fragment of the first tooth of R _o × (R _s -K _y ) size is formed: for the first example, 22 × 26 threads, for the second example, 38 × 158 threads, changing the angle of inclination of the light bands to the opposite (Fig. 1d and 2- d). By combining the first and second fragments, get the first tooth of the transverse zigzag weave (Fig. 1-d and 2-d). The second (Fig. 1) and subsequent teeth are obtained by copying the previous tooth and shifting it along the weft to the right when forming the ascending line of the teeth by the number of main threads equal to the accepted value of the shift of the tips of the teeth + S _in , while the part of the formed the tooth is moved to the left, attaching the movable area to the right side of the tooth. By combining all the teeth, a rapport of the transverse zigzag shadow weave is obtained: FIG. 1st and 2nd fig.

If weft is used as the active thread system, the initial shadow weave is obtained along the warp, as shown in FIG. 3-b and 4-b.

With the active system of weft threads and even rapport R _b (Fig. 3), the rapport based on is determined by the formula (2): R _o = R _b [R _b (R _b -1) -1] = 4 [4 (4-1 ) -1] = 44 threads, with an odd rapport of R _b (Fig. 4), the rapport based on is determined by the formula (1): R _o = 2R _b [R _b (R _b -1) -1] = 2⋅5 [ 5 (5-1) -1] = 190 threads. The vertex shift value with the active system of weft threads is set within R _b ≤ | S _in | ≤R _o -R _b warp threads: for the third example, 4≤ | S _in | ≤44-4, 4≤ | S _in | ≤40, we take S _in = 12 threads, for the fourth example, 5≤ | S _in | ≤190-5, 5≤ | S _in | ≤185, we take S _in = 30 threads. Take the number K _{y of} weft yarns before breaking in the weft, given that K _y ≥ | S _in | + R _b +2: for the third example, K _y ≥12 + 4 + 2≥18 threads, for the fourth example, K _y ≥30 + 5 + 2≥37 threads, and also considering that with the active system of threads weft K _y ≥2 [R _b (R _b -1) -1] threads, we obtain for the third example K _y ≥2 [4 (4-1) - 1] ≥22 threads, for the fourth example, K _y ≥2 [5 (5-1) -1] ≥38 threads. Given both limitations, we take for the third example K _y = 28, for the fourth K _y = 60 weft threads. Rapport of the tooth, the number of teeth and the rapport for the weft is determined similarly to the above examples. For the third example, R _s = 2⋅28-12-2 = 42 threads, n _s = NOC (44.12) / 12 = 132/12 = 11 teeth, R _y = 42⋅11 = 462 threads, for the fourth example R _s = 2⋅60-30-2 = 88 threads, n _s = NOC (190.30) / 30 = 570/30 = 19 teeth, R _y = 88⋅19 = 1672 threads. The further formation of repeat patterns of weaves is similar to the first two examples.

When the first fragment of the first tooth of the transverse zigzag shadow weave is formed, the light strips also incline to the left, as shown in FIG. 5, the initial data for which are similar to the weaving shown in FIG. 3. The basis report will be R _o = 44 threads, take S _in = -12 warp threads, K _y = 28 weft threads, the tooth rapport will be R _s = 42 threads, the number of teeth n _s = 11, the duck repeat R _y = 462 threads. The reports of the initial shadow weave (Fig. 5-b), obtained on the basis of twill 1/3 (Fig. 5-a), are shifted by the value of the rapport R _{b of the} basic weave down along the base, getting the first (Fig. 5-c), the second (Fig. 5-g) fragments of the first tooth and the first tooth as a whole (Fig. 5-d). The vertices of the second (Fig. 5th), and subsequent teeth, are shifted 12 threads to the left, forming a descending line of the vertices of the teeth. The weave pattern is shown in FIG. 5th, based on two rapports are shown.

Claims (13)

A method of obtaining fabrics of transverse zigzag shadow weaves, which consists in the formation on the surface of the fabric of teeth located in an ascending or descending line, formed by inclined volumetric light strips that change their width and direction along the length of the fabric, in choosing the base weave of the main class and one of the yarn systems in as active, the formation of the initial shadow weave along the passive system of threads with reinforcement of single overlappings in steps along the warp or along the weft; in the selection of the number of weft threads K _y before kink in the weft, the formation of the first and second fragments of the first tooth and the tooth as a whole with the subsequent formation of the second tooth, characterized in that the rapport is determined based on R _{o of the} transverse zigzag shadow weave according to mathematical expressions: - with an active weft thread system: - with an odd rapport of R _{b of the} base weave R _o = 2R _b [R _b (R _b -1) -1]; - with even rapport R _b R _o = R _b [R _b (R _b -1) -1]; - with an active warp system and any rapport R _b R _o = 2 [R _b (R _b -1) -1]; take the vertex shift value ± S _in , changing multiple of the repeat weave R _b with an active system of weft threads within R _b ≤ | S _in | ≤R _o -R _b , with an active system of warp threads within R _b ≤ | S _in | ≤R _o -2 (R _b -1) warp threads, then take the number of weft threads K _y to break in the weft in each tooth, given that on the one hand the number of threads K _y ≥ | S _in | + R _b +2, on the other hand, with an active system of weft threads K _y ≥2 [R _b (R _b -1) -1], with an active system of warp threads and an odd rapport R _{b, the} number of threads K _y ≥2R _b [R _b (R _b -1 ) -1], and with even rapport R _b K _y ≥R _b [R _b (R _b -1) -1] weft threads; determine the rapport R _{z of the} tooth, the number n _{z of} teeth in the rapport for the weft and the rapport for the duck R _{y of the} transverse zigzag shadow weave according to mathematical expressions: R _s = 2K _y - | S _in | -2; n _s = NOC = (R _o , S _in ) / S _in (NOC - the least common multiple); R _y = R _s n _s ; after which, on the basis of the initial shadow weave, inclined light strips are formed in the first and second fragments of the first tooth and the tooth of the entire transverse zigzag shadow weave, taking into account the obtained K _y , R _s and R _o threads; the formation of the second and subsequent teeth is carried out taking into account the accepted value of the shift of the vertices ± S _in and the obtained number of teeth n _s .

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