RU2515863C1 - Method of production of fabrics of comb shadow weaves - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: textiles, paper.

SUBSTANCE: in the claimed method on the surface of the fabric the visual effect of volume combs is obtained due to formation in the repeat of the weave of transverse and longitudinal light bands by gradual increasing and then decreasing the number of warp (or weft) overlaps without repetition, with uniform or non-uniform repetition of repeats of the basic weave in steps of light transitions. Voluminosity of the combs is produced due to the presence of the reverse light transition on both systems of filaments.

EFFECT: diversification of the range of fabrics by obtaining on their surface the render effect of volume combs formed by longitudinal and transverse light bands.

7 dwg

Description

The invention relates to the production of textile materials and for the manufacture of fabrics of shadow weaves, belonging to the class of fine-grain, produced on weaving machines equipped with a jacquard machine.

A known method of obtaining fabrics of shadow weaves used in jacquard weaving to obtain the effect of the transition from light to shadow or vice versa [Damyanov GB, Bachev Ts.Z., Surnina N.F. The structure of the fabric and modern methods of its design. - M .: Light and food industry, 1984, S. 38-39]. There are shadow twill in the direction of the base or in the direction of the duck. This weave is obtained due to the gradual transition from weft twill or satin to the main twill or satin, reinforcement of overlap is carried out along the direction of the shadow weave.

There is also a method of obtaining fabrics of shadow weave to obtain the effect of the transition from light to shadow or vice versa with the strengthening of overlap along the system opposite to the direction of shadow weave [Kutepov OS The structure and design of fabrics. - M .: Legprombytizdat, 1988, p. 46-47].

The disadvantage of analogue methods is the inability to obtain the visual effect of bulk cells on the surface of the fabric.

The prototype is a method of obtaining shadow weave fabrics, which creates a visual effect of longitudinal light strips on the fabric surface due to a gradual transition along the warp or along the weft from weft twill or satin to main twill or satin or vice versa, from main twill or atlas to weft twill or satin, and vice versa [Martynova A.A., Slostina G.L., Vlasova N.A. The structure and design of fabrics. - M.: RIO MGTA them. A.N. Kosygina, 1999, p. 68-70]. The transition from light to shadow (or from shadow to light) along the warp or along the weft occurs due to the gradual strengthening of single overlap in the steps of shadow weaving, while strengthening can be made along the warp up or along the weft to the right, the number of warp threads in the individual steps is the same and equal to one or more rapports R _{b of the} base weave. The reverse light transition is performed by sequentially copying the direct light transition of the shadow weave, starting from the penultimate stage to the second.

The disadvantage of the prototype method is the inability to obtain on the surface of the fabric the visual effect of volumetric honeycombs.

The technical result of the invention is the expansion of the range of tissues by obtaining on their surface the visual effect of volumetric honeycombs.

, находят число нитей в обратном световом переходе

; определяют раппорты R переплетения по основе и по утку как сумму нитей в прямом и обратном световых переходах R=R_пp.+R_обр.; формируют поперечную световую полосу теневого переплетения, для чего выстраивают прямой световой переход с числом основных нитей, равным R_пр., числом ступеней, равным R_б-1, и числом повторений раппорта базового переплетения в каждой ступени n_i раз, при этом в каждой ступени помещают R_б×n_i основных нитей, затем формируют обратный световой переход с числом основных нитей, равным R_обр., обратный световой переход выполняют последовательным копированием прямого светового перехода теневого переплетения, начиная с предпоследней ступени до второй; после этого аналогично формируют продольную световую полосу теневого переплетения; достраивают верхнюю правую часть переплетения, копируя каждый раппорт базового переплетения продольной световой полосы - вправо, поперечной световой полосы - вверх.The specified technical result is achieved by the fact that in the method of obtaining shadow weave fabrics, which consists in a gradual transition along the warp or along the weft from weft twill or satin to the main twill or satin, or, conversely, and vice versa, due to the gradual strengthening of single overlap in the steps, performed along the warp up or along the weft to the right, according to the invention, volumetric honeycombs are formed in the weave pattern, for which a thread system (warp or weft) is adopted to create a light effect in the honeycomb base, in isimosti from which accept basic interweaving rapport with R _b: weft (twill or satin) or basic (twill or satin); take a repeat sequence of the rapport of the basic weave in each step of the direct light transition [n _i ], i = 1,2, ..., R _b -1; find the number of steps of the direct light transition as R _b -1, the return light transition as R _b -3, find the number of threads in the direct light transition

find the number of threads in the reverse light transition

; Rappings of R weave are determined on the warp and weft basis as the sum of the filaments in the forward and reverse light transitions R = R _pp. + R _arr. ; form a transverse light strip of the shadow weave, for which they build a direct light transition with the number of warp threads equal to R _ave , the number of steps equal to R _b -1, and the number of repetitions of the rapport of the basic weave in each step n _i times, with each step place R _b × n _{i of the} main threads, then form a reverse light transition with the number of main threads equal to R _arr. the reverse light transition is performed by sequentially copying the direct light transition of the shadow weave, starting from the penultimate stage to the second; after that, the longitudinal light strip of the shadow weave is likewise formed; they complete the upper right part of the interlacing, copying each rapport of the basic interlacing of the longitudinal light strip - to the right, of the transverse light strip - up.

The indicated technical result — the creation of new shadow weaves to obtain the visual effect of volumetric honeycombs on the surface of the fabric — is achieved by forming transverse and longitudinal light strips in the interweaving pattern, gradually increasing, and then reducing the number of main (or weft) ceilings in the steps of direct and reverse light transitions in bands, the volume of cells is due to the presence of a reverse light transition through both systems of filaments.

The invention is illustrated by drawings, where

- figure 1 shows the shadow weave obtained in a known manner by the prototype with the transition along the warp from satin 5/3 to satin 5/2 with the reinforcement of individual overlap along the warp (Fig.1-a) and along the weft (Fig.1-b ), with the transition along the warp from satin 5/2 to satin 5/3 with the strengthening of individual overlaps along the warp (Fig. 1-c) and along the weft (Fig. 1-g), as well as with the transition along the weft from satin 5 / 3 to the atlas 5/2 with reinforcement of individual floors along the warp (Fig. 1-e) and along the weft (Fig. 1-e), with the passage along the weft from atlas 5/2 to satin 5/3 with the reinforcement of individual floors along the basics (Fig.1-g) and along the weft (Fig.1-h).

- figure 2 shows the shadow weave, obtained in a known manner, analogous with the transition along the warp from satin 5/2 to satin 5/3 and vice versa with the strengthening of individual overlap along the warp (Fig.2-a) and along the weft (Fig.2 -b), with the transition along the warp from satin 5/2 to satin 5/3 and vice versa with the strengthening of individual overlaps along the warp (Fig.2-c) and along the weft (Fig.2-d), as well as with the transition along the weft from sateen 5/3 to atlas 5/2 and vice versa with reinforcement of individual overlaps along the warp (Fig.2-e) and along the weft (Fig.2-e), with the passage along the weft from satin 5/2 to satin 5/3 and back with Silene along the individual bases of overlap (2-x) and along the weft (2-s);

- figure 3 presents the inventive honeycomb shadow weave obtained on the basis of the atlas 8/3, with reinforcement of single ceilings in steps along the weft (figure 3-a); on Fig 3-b shows the visualization of tissue produced by this weave;

- figure 4 presents a photocopy of a tissue sample with weaving, shown in figure 3-a;

- figure 5 and 6 presents the cellular shadow weave based on the atlas 7/2 (Fig.5-a) and atlas 7/4 (Fig.6-a) and visualization of tissue samples generated by these weaves (Fig.5-6 and 6-b), the reinforcement of individual floors in the steps is made along the warp (Fig. 5) or along the weft (Fig. 6);

- Fig.7 shows a cellular shadow weave based on the atlas 7/4 (Fig.7-a) and visualization of a tissue sample generated by this weave (7-b), reinforcement of individual overlap in the steps is carried out along the base, in each step the rapport of the base weaving is repeated twice.

An example of the practical implementation of the method.

нитей, находят число нитей в обратном световом переходе

нитей; определяют раппорты R переплетения по основе и по утку как сумму нитей в прямом и обратном световых переходах R=R_пр.+R_обр.=56+40=96 нитей; формируют поперечную световую полосу теневого переплетения, для чего выстраивают прямой световой переход с числом основных нитей, равным 56 нитям, числом ступеней, равным 7, и числом повторений раппорта базового переплетения в каждой ступени по одному разу, при этом в каждой ступени помещают R_б×n_i=8·1=8 основных нитей, затем формируют обратный световой переход с числом основных нитей, равным R_обр., т.е. 40 нитям, обратный световой переход выполняют последовательным копированием прямого светового перехода теневого переплетения, начиная с предпоследней ступени до второй; после этого аналогично формируют продольную световую полосу теневого переплетения, достраивают верхнюю правую часть переплетения, копируя каждый раппорт базового переплетения продольной световой полосы - вправо, поперечной световой полосы - вверх. Результат построения для этого примера приведен на фиг.3-а. Усиление одиночных перекрытий выполняют вдоль утка. На фиг.3-б показан макет переплетения, на фиг.4 - ксерокопия образца ткани с данным переплетением. Все нити раппорта - разнопереплетающиеся, для выработки данного образца необходим ткацкий станок, оснащенный жаккардовой машиной.Volumetric honeycombs are formed in the weave repeat, for which a system of warp threads is used to create a light effect at the base of the honeycombs, it is believed, for example, that the weft overlays are darker than the main ones, or the weft is darker in color, they accept a basic atlas 8/3 weave with rapport R _b = 8 threads; accept a repeat sequence of the repeat of the basic weave in each step of the direct light transition [n _i ], for example, without repeating the repeat in the steps [n _i ] = 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1; find the number of steps of direct light transition as R _b -1 = 8-1 = 7, reverse light transition as R _b -3 = 8-3 = 5, find the number of threads in direct light transition

threads, find the number of threads in the reverse light transition

threads determine the weaves R of weaving on the warp and weft as the sum of the strands in the forward and reverse light transitions R = R _ave. + R _arr. = 56 + 40 = 96 threads; form a transverse light strip of the shadow weave, for which a direct light transition is built with the number of warp threads equal to 56 threads, the number of steps equal to 7, and the number of repetitions of the rapport of the basic weave in each step once, with R _b × n _i = 8 · 1 = 8 of the main threads, then form a reverse light transition with the number of main threads equal to R _arr. , i.e. 40 threads, the reverse light transition is performed by sequentially copying the direct light transition of the shadow weave, starting from the penultimate stage to the second; after that, the longitudinal light strip of the shadow weave is similarly formed, the upper right part of the weave is completed, copying each rapport of the basic weave of the longitudinal light strip to the right, and the transverse light strip to the top. The construction result for this example is shown in Fig.3-a. Strengthening of single ceilings is performed along the weft. Figure 3-b shows the layout of the weave, figure 4 is a photocopy of a tissue sample with this weave. All the rapport threads are intertwined; to produce this pattern, a loom equipped with a jacquard machine is needed.

Figures 5 and 6 show cellular shadow weaves based on the atlas 7/2 (Figs. 5-a and 6-a) and visualization of a tissue sample generated by this weave (5-b and 6-b), reinforcement of individual overlap in steps produce along the warp (FIG. 5) and along the weft (FIG. 6). Figure 7 presents a cellular shadow weave based on the atlas 7/4 (Fig. 7-a) and visualization of a tissue sample produced by this weave (Fig. 7-b), reinforcement of individual overlap in the steps is carried out along the base, in each step the rapport the basic weave is repeated twice: [n _i ] = 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2.

Claims (1)

A method of obtaining fabrics of cellular shadow weaves, which consists in a gradual transition along the warp or along the weft from weft twill or satin to the main twill or satin, or, conversely, and vice versa, due to the gradual strengthening of single overlap in the steps, performed along the warp up or along the weft to the right, characterized in that a volumetric honeycomb is formed in the weaving pattern, for which a thread system (warp or weft) is adopted to create a light effect in the honeycomb base, depending on which the base weave is taken rapport with R _b: weft (twill or satin) or basic (twill or satin); accept the repetition pattern of the base weave in each step of the direct light transition [n _i ], i = 1, 2, ..., R _b -1; find the number of steps of the direct light transition as R _b -1, the return light transition as R _b -3, find the number of threads in the direct light transition

find the number of threads in the reverse light transition

; Rappings of R weave are determined on the warp and weft basis as the sum of the filaments in the forward and reverse light transitions R = R _pp. + R _arr. ; form a transverse light strip of the shadow weave, for which they build a direct light transition with the number of warp threads equal to R _ave , the number of steps equal to R _b -1, and the number of repetitions of the rapport of the basic weave in each step n _i times, with each step place R _b × n _{i of the} main threads, then form a reverse light transition with the number of main threads equal to R _arr. the reverse light transition is performed by sequentially copying the direct light transition of the shadow weave, starting from the penultimate stage to the second; after that, the longitudinal light strip of the shadow weave is likewise formed; they complete the upper right part of the interlacing, copying each rapport of the basic interlacing of the longitudinal light strip - to the right, of the transverse light strip - up.

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