RU2483149C1 - Method of obtaining tissue of lozenge-shaped shadow weave - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: textiles, paper.

SUBSTANCE: in rapport of weaving the sloping volume light stripes are formed, extending in different directions, for which previously the original shadow weave is produced, taking one of the threads systems as active, and the second as passive. The original shadow weave is formed along the passive threads system, gradually passing from basic weaves of the main class with a lighter weft effect to weaves of the main class with a darker basic effect, or vice versa, due to gradual increase in the single interlacing in steps, made along the warp up or along the weft to the right; copying in inversed manner the direct light transition, the reverse light transition is obtained; the initial shadow weave is shifted along the threads of the passive system in a positive or negative side by the amount of shift, which is equal to the rapport of the basic weave. Then a break of sloping light stripes is carried out on warp and weft after K_warp of warp and K_weft of weft threads.

EFFECT: diversification of tissues by obtaining on their surface of the effect of visualisation of volume lozenges formed by sloping light stripes extending in different directions.

9 dwg

Description

The invention relates to the production of textile materials and for the manufacture of fabrics of shadow weaves, belonging to the class of fine-grain, produced on weaving machines equipped with a jacquard machine.

A known method of producing fabrics of diagonal weaves, creating a diamond pattern on the surface of the fabric from embossed stripes extending in different directions [Patent 2262560 RF, IPC ⁷ D03D 23/00. A method of obtaining fabrics of diagonal weaves / Maletskaya S.V., Maletsky V.V .; Applicant and patent holder State educational institution of higher professional education “Ulyanovsk State Technical University”. No. 2004114457/12; declared 05/11/2004; publ. 10/20/2005. - 3 p.: 5 ill.]. The direction of the relief strips is changed along the width of the fabric by changing the sign of the vertical shift of the floors to the opposite after a given number of warp threads and along the length of the fabric by changing the sign of the horizontal shift of the floors to the opposite after a given number of weft threads.

The disadvantage of the analogue method is that the use of diagonal weaves as the base ones does not allow the visualization effect of volumetric rhombuses formed by light strips running in different directions on the fabric surface.

The prototype adopted a method of obtaining fabrics of shadow weaves, creating on the fabric surface a visual effect of longitudinal or transverse light strips, obtained by a gradual transition along the weft (longitudinal strips) (Fig.1-a-1-h), or along the warp (transverse strips ) (Fig. 1-I - 1-p) from the base weaves of the main class with a lighter weft effect (weft twill or satin) to the weaves of the main class with a darker main effect (main twill or atlas) and vice versa (Fig. 1- a, 1-in, 1-d, 1-f, 1-i, 1-k, 1-n, 1-o), or, conversely, from basic weave of the main class with the main effect to weaves of the main class with the weft effect and vice versa (Fig. 1-b, 1-d, 1-e, 1-s, 1-l, 1-m, 1-p, 1-p ) [Martynova A.A., Slostina G.L., Vlasova N.A. The structure and design of fabrics. - M.: RIO MGTA them. A.N. Kosygina, 1999, p. 68-70]. The transition from light to shadow (or from shadow to light) along the weft or along the warp occurs due to the gradual strengthening of single overlappings in the steps of the shadow weave, while amplification can be performed along the warp up (Fig. 1-c, 1-d, 1- g-1-i, 1-l, 1-n, 1-p) or along the weft to the right (Fig. 1-a, 1-b, 1-d, 1-e, 1-k, 1-m, 1 -o, 1-p), the number of threads in the individual steps is the same and equal to one or more rapports R _{b of the} basic weave. The reverse light transition is performed by sequentially copying the direct light transition of the shadow weave, starting from the penultimate stage to the second, the number of steps of the reverse light transition is two less than the direct one, the shift of the overlap remains equal to the shift of the overlap in the direct light transition of the shadow weave.

The disadvantage of the prototype method is the inability to get on the surface of the fabric going in different directions, inclined light strips, and the effect of visualization of volumetric rhombuses.

The technical result of the invention is to expand the assortment of fabrics by obtaining on their surface the effect of visualization of volumetric rhombuses formed by oblique light strips going in different directions.

The specified technical result is achieved by the fact that in the method for producing fabrics of rhomboid shadow weaves, which consists in a gradual transition along the weft or along the warp from the base weaves of the main class with a lighter weft effect (satin or weft twill) to the weaves of the main class with a darker main effect ( atlases or main twill), or, conversely, from basic weaves of the main class with the main effect to weaves of the main class with the weft effect, due to the gradual amplification x of the ceilings in the steps, running along the warp up or along the weft to the right, according to the invention, form oblique three-dimensional light strips in different directions in the weave pattern, for which the initial shadow weave is preliminarily received, taking one of the yarn systems (warp or wefts) in as active, the second as passive, the initial shadow weave is formed along the passive system of threads with rapport R _asset. by the active system, equal to the sum of the threads of the active system in the forward R _ave. and reverse R _arr. light transitions, and R rapport _versatile. on a passive system of threads equal to the rapport of the basic weave, determined by the formulas:

form a direct light transition of the original shadow weave, then a reverse light transition, for which they perform a mirror copy of the direct light transition of the original shadow weave in the direction of the passive system threads, excluding its first and last threads, changing the direction of the shift of the overlap to the opposite; connect fragments of direct and reverse light transitions to obtain a rapport of the original shadow weave; to determine the rapports on the basis and on the weft of the rhomboid shadow weave, take the number of warp threads K _about before the break on the basis and the number of weft threads K _y before the break on the weft, determine the patterns of rhomboid shadow weaving on the basis and weft according to the formulas:

find the value of the positive or negative shift of the rapport of the initial shadow weave in the direction of the threads of the passive system as equal to the rapport of the base weave ± S _pass. = ± R _b threads; after completing the following three stages in succession, oblique light strips running in different directions are created: at the first stage, oblique light strips are obtained on the basis of the initial shadow weave in the first (lower left) fragment of the diamond-shaped shadow weave containing K _about warp and K _{at the} weft threads, for which the rapport of the original shadow weave is sequentially shifted in the positive direction for tilting the light strips to the right or negative for the tilting of light strips in the left side along the pass willow system of threads by one step of the initial shadow weave, shifts are stopped after filling the first fragment of a diamond-shaped shadow weave of size K _o × K _{in the} threads; when forming the second (lower right) fragment of a diamond-shaped shadow weave of size (K _about -2) × K _{, the} angle of inclination of the light bands and the shift of the rapport of the original shadow weave to the opposite ones by horizontal mirror copying of the first fragment, excluding the first and last main threads, are changed; form the third (upper) fragment of the rhomboid shadow weave of size (2 · K _o -2) × (K _y -2) threads by vertical mirror copying of the first two fragments, excluding the first and last weft threads, while also changing the angle of inclination of the light bands and reverse rapport of the original shadow weave.

The specified technical result - the creation of new diamond-shaped shadow weaves to obtain the effect of visualization of volumetric rhombuses formed by oblique light strips running in different directions on the fabric surface - is achieved by changing the direction of inclination of the light strips to the opposite after a given number of K _{about the} warp threads and K _{at the} weft threads; the formation of a diamond-shaped weave based on the original shadow weave, performing a positive or negative shift of the rapport of the original shadow weave by the size of one step; the volume of the stripes and rhombuses is obtained by forming the reverse light transition of the original shadow weave, with the number of steps equal to the number of steps of the direct light transition, its mirror image.

The invention is illustrated by drawings, where

- figure 1 shows the shadow weaves obtained by a known prototype method with the transition from light to shadow and back along the weft on the basis of sateen 5/3 and twill 1/4 with reinforcement of the ceilings in steps along the weft (figure 1-a, 1 -e) and along the warp (Fig. 1-c, 1-g), with the transition from shadow to light and back along the weft at the base of the atlas 5/2 and twill 4/1 with reinforcement of the ceilings in steps along the weft (Fig. 1 -b, 1-e) and along the base (Fig. 1-d, 1-h), as well as with the transition from light to shadow and back along the base on the basis of satin 5/2 and twill 1/4 with reinforcement of the ceilings in the steps along the base (Fig. 1, 1-n) and in ol duck (Fig.1-k, 1-o), with the transition from shadow to light and back along the base on the basis of the atlas 5/2 and twill 4/1 with reinforcement of the ceilings in steps along the base (Fig.1-l, 1 -p) and along the duck (Fig. 1-m, 1-p);

- figure 2, 3 and 4 shows the sequence of construction of the diamond-shaped shadow weave according to the claimed method: 2-a) basic weave atlas 5/2; 2-b) direct light transition of the initial shadow weave with reinforcement of single weft overlaps along the weft to the right; 2-c) reverse light transition of the original shadow weave; 2-d), 3-a) and 4-a) the original shadow weave; 2-d) and 3-b) the first fragment of a diamond-shaped shadow weave with the slope of the light bands to the right (2-d) or to the left (3-b); 2-e) and 3-c) the second fragment of a diamond-shaped shadow weave; 2-g) and 3-d) the third fragment of a diamond-shaped shadow weave; 4-b and 4-c) a diamond-shaped shadow weave with a slope of the stripes in the first fragment of the weave to the right and left; 4-g and 4-e) visualization of tissues with these weaves;

- figure 5 shows the diamond-shaped shadow weave obtained according to the conditions of the examples presented in figure 2, 3 and 4, with the reinforcement of single weft overlaps along the warp up to obtain the original shadow weave (figure 5-a), with the slope of the light bars in the first fragment of the shadow weave to the right (Fig. 5-b) or to the left (5-c), visualization of the fabrics produced by these weaves (5-g and 5-d);

- figure 6 shows the diamond-shaped shadow weave obtained by the light transition in the original shadow weave along the weft from satin 5/3 to satin 5/2, and back with the strengthening of the overlap of the basic weave along the weft to the right (Fig.6-a) or along warp upward (Fig.6-d), with the slope of the light strips in the first fragment of the rhomboid shadow weave to the right (Fig.6-b and 6-e) or to the left (Fig.6-c and 6th);

- figure 7 shows the diamond-shaped shadow weave obtained by the light transition in the original shadow weave along the warp from satin 5/2 to satin 5/3, and vice versa with the reinforcement of the overlap of the base weave along the warp up (Fig.7-a) or along duck to the right (Fig.7-d), with the slope of the light strips in the first fragment of the rhomboid shadow weave to the right (Fig.7-b and 7-d) or to the left (Fig.7-c and 7th);

- Fig. 8 shows a visualization of fabric (8-b) produced by a diamond-shaped shadow weave obtained on the basis of the original shadow weave (Fig. 8-a) with a transition from shadow (satin 9/4) to light (satin 9/2) and vice versa in the direction of the weft, the reinforcement of the atlas overlaps is made along the warp upward, with the slope of the light strips in the first fragment of weaving to the right, with a kink along the warp and along the weft through K _o = K _y = 142 threads;

- figure 9 shows a visualization of fabrics produced by a diamond-shaped shadow weave obtained on the basis of the original shadow weave (Fig. 9-a) with the transition from light (satin 9/5) to shadow (satin 9/2) and back in the direction of the weft , reinforcement of the sateen ceilings was made along the warp upward, with the tilted light strips in the first fragment of weaving to the left, with a kink along the warp through K _o = 200 and a weft through K _y = 50 threads (Fig. 9-b) and with a kink along the warp through To _about = 50 and through the weft through To _at = 200 threads (Fig.9-c).

An example of the practical implementation of the method.

In oblique repetition, oblique volumetric light strips running in different directions are obtained, for which the initial shadow interlacing is formed, for this purpose they take the form of the initial light effect in the bands of the initial shadow interlacing, for example, from shadow to light, to create this light effect, the basic basic ( satin or twill) weaving of the main class, for example, atlas 5/2 (Fig.2-a), with a repeat R _b equal to 5 threads; take one of the yarn systems as active, for example, warp, the second weft system as passive; the initial shadow weave is obtained along the passive system of threads, along the weft, the number of steps of the transition from shadow to light is determined in the direct light transition of the initial shadow weave as equal to R _b -1 = 5-1 = 4, the rapport of the original shadow weave is found according to the formulas ( 1) - (3), for duck according to the formula (4):

R _ave. = R _b · (R _b -1) = 5 · (5-1) = 20 nit; R _arr. = R _ol. -2 = 20-2 = 18 nit.

R _active.o = R _ave. + R _arr. = 20 + 18 = 38 nits; R _passive.y = K = R _b = 5 nit.

Take the direction of strengthening the overlap of the basic weave, for example, along the weft to the right, and form a direct light transition from satin to satin in the direction of the weft, with the number of steps equal to R _b -1 = 4 and the number of warp threads in each step equal to R _b = 5 (Fig.2-b); then get the reverse light transition of the shadow weave with the number of warp threads equal to R _arr. = 18: perform direct copying of the direct light transition, excluding the first and last warp threads, changing the direction of the overlap shift from positive to negative (Fig.2-c), connecting the sections of the direct and reverse light transitions, get the rapport of the original shadow weave (Fig .2-g). To determine the rapports on the warp and weft of the rhomboid shadow weave, the number of warp yarns before the kink on the warp, for example, K _o = 38 yarns, and the number of weft yarns before the kink in the weft, for example, K _y = 38 yarns, are used to determine the repeat patterns of the rhomboid shadow weave based and duck according to the formulas (5):

R _o = 2 · K _o -2 = 2 · 38-2 = 74 nit .; R _y = 2 · K _y -2 = 2 · 38-2 = 74 nits., Find, for example, the positive shift of the original shadow weave in the direction of the weft threads S _pass. = R _b = 5 threads; having performed the following three stages in succession, create oblique light strips going in different directions: at the first stage, oblique light strips are obtained on the basis of the initial shadow weave in the first (lower left) fragment of the diamond-shaped shadow weave containing 38 warp and 38 weft threads, for which rapport of the original the shadow weave (Fig.2-g) is sequentially shifted, for example, in the positive (for tilting the light strips to the right) direction along the passive system of threads, along the weft, by one step original shadow weave (2-d), for clarity, the first stage source weave shadow highlighted by hatching (Figure 2) shifts stopped after filling the first fragment rhombic shadow weave size 38 × 38 strands; when forming the second (lower right) fragment of the diamond-shaped shadow weave with a size of 36 × 38 threads, the angle of inclination of the light bands and the shift of the rapport of the original shadow weave S _{pass are} changed _. on the opposite by horizontal mirror copying of the first fragment, excluding the first and last main threads (Fig.2-e); form the third (upper) fragment of the diamond-shaped shadow weave of 74 × 36 threads by vertical mirror copying of the first two fragments, excluding the first and last weft threads (Fig.2-g), changing the angle of inclination of the light bands and the shift of the rapport of the original shadow weave by opposite; combining the fragments, a diamond-shaped shadow weave is obtained (Fig. 4-b), visualization of the fabric generated using this weave (Fig. 4-d) shows the presence on the fabric surface of the effect of volumetric rhombuses formed by oblique volumetric light strips running in different directions.

When the first fragment of the rhomboid shadow weave is formed, the light strips also tilt to the left, for this purpose the rapports of the original shadow weave are shifted by the shift amount S _pass. , on the 5 main threads to the left, with the same basic initial shadow weave (Fig. 2-g, 3-a), the first (Fig. 3-b), second (Fig. 3-c) and third (Fig. 3-g) are obtained ) fragments of another rhomboid shadow weave (Fig. 4-c) with visualization of tissue (Fig. 4-d).

In contrast to the rhomboid shadow weaves shown in Fig. 4, single overlap of the base weaves when constructing the initial shadow weave (Fig. 5-a) is reinforced along the base upward with the light bars in the first fragment of the rhomboid shadow weave to the right (Fig. 5-b) ) or to the left (Fig. 5-c) with visualization of tissues (Figs. 5-d and e).

Diamond-shaped shadow weaves are also obtained by a light transition in the original shadow weave, for example, from light (satin 5/3), to the shadow (satin 5/2), and vice versa with reinforcement of the overlapping of the basic weave along the weft to the right (Fig. 6-a) or along the base up (Fig.6-d), with the slope of the light strips in the first fragment of the rhomboid shadow weave to the right (Fig.6-b and 6-e) or to the left (Fig.6-c and 6th).

When used to obtain a diamond-shaped shadow weave as the base initial shadow weave in the direction of the warp, its rapport on the warp is found by the formula (4), according to the weft - by the formulas (1) - (3), in this case, the warp is considered a passive system of threads. A rhomboid shadow weave is obtained with the light strips tilted in the first fragment, for example, to the right, with a transition, for example, from shadow to light and back based on the atlas 5/2, weft reinforcing is performed, for example, along the warp, the rapports of the original shadow weave are determined:

R _pass.o = R _b = 5; R _ave. = R _b · (R _b -1) = 5 · (5-1) = 20;

R _arr. = R _ol. -2 = 20-2 = 18; R _active.y = R _ave. + R _arr. = 20 + 18 = 38.

A direct light transition of the initial shadow weave is formed with the number of weft threads equal to 20, with the transition from satin to satin in the direction of the warp, with the number of steps equal to four and the number of weft threads in each step equal to five; then get the reverse light transition of the shadow weave with the number of weft threads equal to 18, for which they perform a mirror copy of the direct light transition in the direction of the warp threads, excluding the first and last weft threads; at the same time, the direction of the shift of the atlas overlap is changed from positive (up) to negative (down), combining fragments of the direct and reverse light transitions, a rapport of the initial shadow weave is obtained (Fig. 7-a). To determine the rapports on the warp and weft of the rhomboid shadow weave, the number of warp yarns before the kink on the warp, for example, K _o = 38 yarns, and the number of weft yarns before the kink in the weft, for example, K _y = 38 yarns, are used to determine the repeat patterns of the rhomboid shadow weave based and duck according to the formulas (5):

R _o = 2 · K _o -2 = 2 · 38-2 = 74 nit .; R _y = 2 · K _y -2 = 2 · 38-2 = 74 nits., Find, for example, the positive shift of the original shadow weave in the direction of the warp threads S _pass. = R _b = 5 threads; having performed the following three stages in succession, create oblique light strips going in different directions: at the first stage, oblique light strips are obtained on the basis of the initial shadow weave in the first (lower left) fragment of the diamond-shaped shadow weave containing 38 warp and 38 weft threads, for which rapport of the original the shadow weave (Fig.7-a) is sequentially shifted along the warp up to tilt the light strips to the right side by one step of the original shadow weave (Fig.7-b), the shifts are stopped by le filling rhombic first fragment shadow weave; the second and third stages of constructing a rhomboid weave on the basis of the original shadow weave along the warp are similar to constructing a rhomboid weave on the basis of the original shadow weave along the weft, get the rhomboid weave shown in Fig.7-b. 7-c shows a diamond-shaped shadow weave with a left slope of the light bands in the first fragment of the weave. When reinforcing single weft overlaps of the basic weave along the weft to the right during the construction of the initial shadow weave (Fig. 7-d) with a right slope of the light strips in the first fragment, a diamond-shaped weave shown in Fig. 7-d is obtained, with a left tilt - in Fig. 7th

To enhance the effect of the volume of light rhombuses in the fabrics of rhomboid shadow weaves, it is recommended to accept basic weaves with a large rapport. On Fig-b shows the visualization of the fabric produced by the diamond-shaped shadow weave obtained on the basis of the original shadow weave (Fig. 8-a) with the transition from shadow (satin 9/4) to light (satin 9/2) and back in the direction weft, reinforcement of the atlas overlap is made along the warp up, with the slope of the light strips in the first fragment of the weave to the right, with a kink along the warp and along the weft through K _o = K _y = 142 threads. For comparison, FIGS. 9-b and 9-c show the visualization of fabrics produced by a diamond-shaped shadow weave obtained on the basis of the original shadow weave (FIG. 9-a) with the transition from light (satin 9/5) to shadow (atlas 9 / 2) and back in the direction of the weft, the reinforcement of the sateen ceilings is made along the warp upward, with the slope of the light strips in the first fragment of the weave to the left, with a break along the warp through K _o = 200 and along the weft through K _y = 50 threads (Fig. ) and with a kink in the base through K _o = 50 and a weft through K _y = 200 threads (Fig.9-c).

Fabrics with such weaves are produced on machines equipped with a jacquard machine.

Claims (1)

A method for producing rhomboid shadow weave fabrics consisting in a gradual transition along the weft or along the warp from the main weave of the main class with a lighter weft effect (satin or weft twill) to the main class of weave with a darker main effect (satin or main twill), or, on the contrary, from basic weaves of the main class with the main effect to weaves of the main class with the weft effect, due to the gradual strengthening of single ceilings in the steps, running along the base up or along the weft to the right, characterized in that inclined light strips in different directions are formed in the weave repeat, for which the initial shadow weave is previously obtained, taking one of the thread systems (warp or weft) as active, the second as passive , the initial shadow weave is formed along the passive system of threads with rapport R_assets. by the active system equal to the sum of the threads of the active system in direct R_etc.and vice versa R_arr. light transitions, and rapport R_liabilities. on a passive system of threads equal to the rapport of the basic weave, determined by the formulas:

form a direct light transition of the initial shadow weave, then a reverse light transition, for which they perform a mirror copy of the direct light transition of the original shadow weave in the direction of the threads of the passive system, excluding its first and last threads, changing the direction of the shift of the overlap to the opposite; connect fragments of direct and reverse light transitions to obtain a rapport of the original shadow weave; to determine the rapports based on and on the weft of the diamond-shaped shadow weave, take the number of warp K_o to break on the basis and the number of weft threads K_y to a break in the weft, determine the rapports of the diamond-shaped shadow weave on the basis of and on the weft according to the formulas:

find the value of the positive or negative shift of the rapport of the initial shadow weave in the direction of the threads of the passive system as equal to the rapport of the base weave ± S_liabilities.= ± R_b threads completing the following three steps in succession, create oblique light strips going in different directions: at the first stage, oblique light strips are obtained on the basis of the initial shadow weave in the first (lower left) fragment of the diamond-shaped shadow weave containing K_o core and K_y weft threads, for which the rapport of the initial shadow weave is sequentially shifted in the directions that are positive for tilting the light strips to the right or negative for tilting the light strips to the left side by one step of the initial shadow weave, the shifts are stopped after filling the first fragment of the rhomboid shadow weave K size_o× K_y threads when forming the second (lower right) fragment of a rhomboid shadow weave of size (K_o-2) × K_y the filaments change the angle of inclination of the light bands and the shift of the rapport of the original shadow weave to the opposite by horizontal mirror copying of the first fragment, excluding the first and last main threads; form the third (upper) fragment of the rhomboid shadow weave of size (2 · K_o-2) × (K_y-2) threads by vertical mirror copying of the first two fragments, excluding the first and last weft threads, while also changing the angle of inclination of the light bands and shifting the rapport of the original shadow weave to the opposite.

Images