RU2605379C2 - Method of longitudinal zigzag shadow weaves fabrics producing - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: textile.

SUBSTANCE: invention allows to expand range of combined shadow weaves fabrics with effect of longitudinal volume zigzags by changing ascent angle of longitudinal zigzag pattern ascending or descending teeth line. Method to produce longitudinal zigzag shadow weaves fabrics consists in formation of teeth on fabric surface, located at ascending or descending line, formed by inclined dimensional light strips, varying their width and direction across width of fabric, in selection of basic main class weaving, in selection of one of threads systems as active, formation of initial shadow weaving along threads passive system with single over-lappings reinforcement along weft base; in selection of number of base threads K_b to break by base, formation of first tooth first and second fragments and tooth in general with subsequent formation of second tooth, wherein rapport is determined by longitudinal zigzag shadow weaving weft R_w using mathematical expressions: at base threads active system: - at odd rapport R_b of basic weave R_w=2R_b[R_b(R_b-1)-1], - at even rapport R_bR_w=R_b[R_b(R_b-1)-1]; at weft threads active system and any rapport R_b:R_w=2[R_b(R_b-1)-1], for changing of shadow zigzag weaving teeth line ascent or descent angle on fabric surface adopting peaks shift value ±S_p, varying multiple to base threads active system basic weave repeat R_b in range of R_b≤|S_p|≤R_w-R_b, at weft threads active system in weft threads range of R_b≤|S_p|≤R_w-2(R_b-1), then adopting number of base threads K_b before fracture by base in each tooth, considering that on one side, number of threads K_b≥S_p+ R_b+2, and on other side, with weft threads active system K_b≥2[R_b(R_b-1)-1], with weft threads active system and odd rapport R_b of basic weave number of threads K_b≥2R_b[R_b(R_b-1)-1], and with base threads even rapport R_b K_b≥R_b[R_b(R_b-1)-1]; determining tooth rapport R_t, number n_t of rapport teeth by base and rapport by base R_b of longitudinal zigzag shadow weaving using mathematical expressions: R_t=2K_b-S_p-2; n_t=LCM(R_w, S_p)/S_p (LCM is least common multiple); R_b=R_tn_t; after that, on initial shadow weaving base forming inclined light strips in first tooth first and second segments and tooth in general of longitudinal zigzag shadow weaving considering obtained K_b and R_w of threads; formation of second and subsequent teeth is performed taking into account obtained peaks shift value ±S_p.

EFFECT: expansion of fabrics range.

1 cl, 4 dwg

Description

The invention relates to the production of textile materials and for the manufacture of fabrics of shadow weaves, belonging to the class of fine-grain, produced on weaving machines equipped with a jacquard machine.

A known method of producing fabrics of diagonal weaves with zigzag embossed stripes that change their direction along the width of the fabric [Pat. RF №2300582, IPC D03D 23/00 (2006.01). A method of obtaining fabrics of diagonal weaves / Maletskaya S.V., Maletsky V.V .; Applicant and patent holder State educational institution of higher professional education “Ulyanovsk State Technical University”. No. 2005137615/12; declared 12/02/2005; publ. 06/10/2007, - 4 pp.: 5 ill.]. On the surface of the fabric, according to the claimed method, create relief strips running along the width of the fabric in the forward and reverse directions, and the directions of the relief strips are changed by reducing the length of the strip of the opposite direction with the same length of the strip of the forward direction.

The disadvantage is that the described method does not allow to obtain a visual effect of an expressive volumetric longitudinal zigzag pattern on the surface of the fabric and to change the angle of rise of the ascending or descending line of the volumetric teeth.

The prototype adopted a method of obtaining longitudinal zigzag shadow weaves, creating a visual effect of a volumetric longitudinal zigzag pattern on the surface of the fabric, consisting of teeth located along an ascending or descending line, formed by inclined volumetric light strips that change their direction twice in the pattern widthwise patten [Pat. RF №2487203, IPC D03D 23/00 (2006.01). A method of obtaining fabrics of longitudinal zigzag shadow weaves / Tolubeeva G.I .; Applicant and patent holder Federal State Budgetary Educational Institution of Higher Professional Education "Ivanovo State Textile Academy" (IGTA). No. 20111154272/12; declared 12/30/2011; publ. 07/10/2013, - 16 pp.: 8 ill.]. A longitudinal zigzag weave is formed on the basis of the initial shadow weave obtained on the basis of twill or satin of the main class with a repeat of R _b , with the transition from weft to main and vice versa, or vice versa, performing positive (when forming the ascending line of the teeth) or negative (when forming the downward line of teeth) the shift of the rapport of the initial shadow weave by the value of one step. In a rapport of a zigzag shadow weave, only two teeth are formed. In each tooth, the direction of inclination of the light strips is reversed after the received amount K _{of the} main threads. The second rapport tooth is obtained by shifting the first tooth up or down by the number of weft threads equal to the vertex shift ± S _in = R _b (R _b -1). The volume of strips and teeth is obtained by forming the reverse light transition of the original shadow weave, with the number of dulls equal to the number of steps of the direct light transition, its mirror image.

The disadvantage of the prototype is the inability to change the elevation angle of the ascending or descending line of volumetric teeth on the surface of the fabric, which narrows the range of fabrics with the effect of volumetric longitudinal zigzag patterns.

The technical result of the invention is to expand the assortment of fabrics of combined shadow weaves with the effect of longitudinal volumetric zigzags by changing the angle of rise of the ascending or descending line of the teeth of the longitudinal zigzag pattern.

The specified technical result is achieved by the fact that in the method for producing fabrics of longitudinal zigzag shadow weaves, which consists in the formation on the surface of the fabric of teeth located in an ascending or descending line, formed by inclined volumetric light strips that change their width and direction along the width of the fabric, in the choice of basic weave main class, in choosing one of the thread systems as active, forming the initial shadow weave along the passive thread system with amplification of one full-time overlap along the base or along the weft; in the selection of the number of warp threads K _about to break on the basis, the formation of the first and second fragments of the first tooth and the tooth as a whole with the subsequent formation of the second tooth, according to the invention, the weft pattern R of _the longitudinal zigzag shadow weave is determined by mathematical expressions:

- with an active warp system:

- with an odd rapport of R _{b of the} base weave

- with even rapport R _b

- with an active system of weft threads and any rapport R _b :

to change the angle of raising or lowering the ascending or descending line of the teeth of the shadow zigzag weave on the surface of the fabric, the vertex shift value ± S _c , which is a multiple of the rapport R _{b of the} base weave with an active system of warp threads within R _b ≤ | S _in | ≤ R _y - R _b , with an active system of weft threads within R _b ≤ | S _in | ≤R _y -2 (R _b -1) weft threads, then take the number of warp threads K _about to break on the base in each tooth, given that, on the one hand, the number of threads K _o ≥S _in + R _b +2, and, on the other hand, with active si the warp yarn system K _o ≥2 [R _b (R _b -1) -1], with the active weft system and odd rapport R _{b of the} base weave, the number of k _o threads ≥ 2R _b [R _b (R _b -1) -1 ], and with even rapport R _b K _o ≥R _b [R _b (R _b -1) -1] warp; determine the rapport R _{s of the} tooth, the number n _{s of} teeth in the rapport based on and the rapport on the basis of R _{about the} longitudinal zigzag shadow weave according to mathematical expressions:

after which, on the basis of the initial shadow weave, inclined light strips are formed in the first and second fragments of the first tooth and the tooth as a whole of a longitudinal zigzag shadow weave, taking into account the obtained K _о and R _{in the} threads; forming a second and subsequent teeth carried with the received displacement amount _into the vertices ± S.

The technical result, which consists in expanding the assortment of fabrics of combined shadow weaves with the effect of longitudinal volumetric zigzags, is achieved by changing the angle of raising or lowering the ascending or descending line of the teeth of the shadow zigzag weave by: changing the base weave multiples of the shift of the vertices of the individual teeth in a predetermined range; changes in the number of warp threads to fracture in each tooth; the formation of the number of teeth necessary for completing the rapport of the shadow zigzag weave, depending on the rapport of the base weave of the main class and the accepted shift value of the tooth peaks. To increase the angle of rise (lowering) of the ascending (descending) line of the teeth with an unchanged number of warp threads to the kink of the straight diagonal in the teeth, the shift of the vertices should be increased, given that this reduces the rapport and the length of the reverse diagonal of each tooth. With a constant shift of the tops of the teeth, an increase in the number of warp threads to a kink of the straight diagonal in each tooth leads to a decrease in the angle of rise or lowering of the line of teeth of the shadow zigzag weave.

The invention is illustrated by drawings, where

- in FIG. 1 shows the sequence of constructing a longitudinal zigzag shadow weave with an ascending tooth line, with an active system of warp threads and obtaining the initial shadow weave along the weft: 1-a) 1/3 basic twill with even rapport; 1-b) the initial shadow weave with reinforcement of single main floors along the base up; 1-c) the first fragment of the first tooth with the slope of the light strips to the right; 1-g) the second fragment of the first tooth; 1-e) - 1-g) the first or third teeth of the longitudinal zigzag shadow weave; 1-h) rapport of a longitudinal zigzag shadow weave;

- in FIG. 2 shows the sequence of constructing a longitudinal zigzag shadow weave with an ascending line of teeth, with an active system of warp threads and obtaining the initial shadow weave along the weft: 2-a) base weave 5/2 atlas with odd rapport; 2-b) the initial shadow weave with reinforcement of single weft overlaps along the weft to the right; 2-c) the first fragment of the first tooth with the slope of the light strips to the right; 2-g) the second fragment of the first tooth; 2-e) the first tooth of the longitudinal zigzag shadow weave; 2-e) the second tooth of the longitudinal zigzag shadow weave; 2-g) a fragment of a rapport of a longitudinal zigzag shadow weave: the fourth part of the rapport is shown along the weft, on the base - five teeth out of nineteen; 2-h) the same fragment of the rapport of the longitudinal zigzag shadow weave obtained on the basis of twill 1/4;

- in FIG. 3 shows the sequence of constructing a longitudinal zigzag shadow weave with an ascending line of teeth, with an active system of weft yarns and obtaining the initial shadow weave along the warp: 3-a) basic weave twill 1/3; 3-b) the initial shadow weave with reinforcement of single main floors along the base up; 3-c) the first fragment of the first tooth with the slope of the light strips to the right; 3-g) the second fragment of the first tooth; 3-e) the first tooth of the longitudinal zigzag shadow weave; 3rd) the second tooth of the longitudinal zigzag shadow weave; 3-g) a fragment of a rapport of a longitudinal zigzag shadow weave: three rapports are shown on a weft, seven out of eleven teeth are shown on the basis;

- in FIG. 4 shows the sequence of constructing a longitudinal zigzag shadow weave with a downward line of teeth, with an active system of warp threads and obtaining the initial shadow weave along the weft: 4-a) basic weave twill 3/1; 4-b) the initial shadow weave with the reinforcement of single weft overlaps along the base up; 4-c) the first fragment of the first tooth with the slope of the light strips to the left; 4-g) the second fragment of the first tooth; 4-d) - 4-g) the first or third teeth of the longitudinal zigzag shadow weave; 4-h) a fragment of a rapport of a longitudinal zigzag shadow weave: eight out of eleven teeth are shown on the basis.

An example of the practical implementation of the method.

Get teeth on the surface of the fabric, located, for example, in an ascending line with the possibility of changing the angle of its rise, for which they accept the basic weft (satin or twill) weave of the main class, for example, twill 1/3 (Fig. 1-a) or the main ( satin or twill) weaving of the main class, for example, atlas 5/2 (Fig. 2-a), with a rapport equal to 1/3 R _b = 4 threads for twill, for R 5/2 atlas - R _b = 5 threads; take one of the yarn systems as active, for example, warp, the second weft system as passive. Along the passive system of threads, the initial shadow weave is formed, reinforcing single ceilings in each step along the warp (Fig. 1-b) or along the weft (Fig. 2-b). The rapport of the longitudinal zigzag shadow weft weft is determined for the first example by the formula (2) (R _b is an even number): R _y = 4 [4 (4-1) -1] = 44 threads, for the second example by the formula (1) ( R _{b the} number is odd): R _y = 2 · 5 [5 (5-1) -1] = 190 threads. The angle of elevation of the ascending line of the teeth on the surface of the tissue is set by the vertex shift value S _c , which varies multiple of the pattern R _b with an active warp system within R _b ≤ | S _in | R _y -R _b : for the first example, 4≤ | S _in | ≤ 44-4, 4≤S _in ≤40, we take S _in = 12 weft threads; for the second example, 5≤ | S _in | ≤190-5, we take S _in = 40 weft threads. Take the number of K _{about the} main threads to break on the basis, given that, firstly, K _about ≥S _in + R _b +2 (for the first example, K _about ≥12 + 4 + 2≥18, for the second example, K _about ≥ 40 + 5 + 2≥47 warp threads), secondly, with an active warp system, K _o ≥2 [R _b (R _b -1) -1]: for the first example, K _o ≥2 [4 (4-1 ) -1] ≥22, for the second example, K _o ≥2 [5 (5-1) -1] ≥38 warp threads. Given both limitations, we take K _o = 23 for the first example, K _o = 56 threads for the second example. We determine the rapport of the tooth according to the formula (4) R _s = 2K _о -S _in -2 = 2 · 23-12-2 = 32 threads, the number of teeth in the rapport based on the formula (5) n _s = NOC (R _y , S _c ) / S _c = NOC (44, 12) / 12 = 132/12 = 11 teeth and rapport based on the longitudinal zigzag shadow weave according to the formula (6) R _о = 32 · 11 = 352 threads, for the second example: R _s = 2 · 56-40-2 = 70 threads; n _s = NOC (190, 40) / 40 = 760/40 = 19 teeth; R _about = 7019 = 1330 threads. On the basis of the original shadow weave, light streaks are slanted to the right in the first fragment of the first tooth of the longitudinal zigzag shadow weave containing K _o × R _{in the} threads: in the first example 23 × 44 threads (Fig. 1-c), in the second example 56 × 190 threads (Fig. 2-c). We form the second fragment of the first tooth of size R _z -K _o × R _{in the} threads (for the first example 9 × 44, for the second example 14 × 190 threads), changing the angle of inclination of the light bands to the opposite (Fig. 1-g and 2-g) . Combining the first and second fragments, we get the first tooth of the longitudinal zigzag weave (Fig. 1-d and 2-d). The second and subsequent teeth are obtained by copying the previous tooth and shifting it along the base upwards when forming the ascending line of the teeth by the number of weft threads equal to the accepted value of the shift of the tooth tips ± S _in , while the part of the formed tooth that protrudes along the height of the weave is transferred downward, attaching the movable section to the top of the tooth. In FIG. 1 shows the second (Fig. 1-e) and third (Fig. 1-g) teeth of eleven. In FIG. 2 shows a second (Fig. 2) tooth of nineteen. Having connected all the teeth, we obtain a rapport of the longitudinal zigzag shadow weave: Fig. 1-z and fig 2-g. In FIG. 2-z for comparison shows a fragment of a rapport of a longitudinal zigzag shadow weave obtained according to the conditions of the second example, but based on a twill 1/4.

If weft is used as the active thread system, the initial shadow weave is obtained along the warp, as shown in FIG. 3-b The duck report is determined by the formula (3): R _y = 2 [4 (4-1) -1] = 22 threads. The vertex shift value with an active system of weft yarns is set within R _b ≤ | S _in | ≤R _y -2 (R _b -1) weft threads, for the third example 4≤ | S _in | ≤22-2 (4-1) , 4≤ | S _in | ≤16, we take S _in = 12 threads. We accept the number of K _{about the} main threads to break on the basis, given that K _about ≥S _in + R _b + 2≥12 + 4 + 2≥18 threads, as well as with an active weft system and even rapport of the base weave K _about ≥R _b [R _b (R _b -1) -1] ≥4 [4 (4-1) -1] ≥44 warp threads, take K _o = 44 threads. We find the rapport of the tooth according to the formula (4) R _s = 2 · 44-12-2 = 74 threads; the number of teeth according to the formula (5) n _s = NOC (22, 12) / 12 = 132/12 = 11; rapport based on weaving according to the formula (6) R _o = 74 · 11 = 814 threads. Further formation of the weave pattern is similar to the first two examples.

When forming the first fragment of the first tooth of the longitudinal zigzag shadow weave, the light strips also tilt to the left, as shown in FIG. 4, for this purpose, the rapports of the initial shadow weave (Fig. 4-b), obtained, for example, on the basis of twill 3/1 (Fig. 4-a), are shifted by the value of the rapport R _{b of the} basic weave to the left along the weft, since in the fourth As an example, the system of warp threads is adopted as active. We get the first fragment of the first tooth (Fig. 4-c), the second (Fig. 4-d), the first tooth as a whole (Fig. 4-d). We set the angle of descent of the descending line of the teeth on the surface of the fabric with a negative vertex shift value - S _in and the number of warp threads to the fracture K _o , the permissible values of which are determined similarly to the first example: K _o ≥18 and K _o ≥22, 4≤ | S _in | ≤ 40. We accept | S _in | = 16 threads of a weft, To _about = 32 threads of a basis. The duck report is calculated similarly to the first example according to the formula (2): R _y = 4 [4 (4-1) -1] = 44 threads. The report of the Prong will be R _s = 2 · 32-16-2 = 46 threads, the number of teeth in the weave pattern n _s = NOC (44, 16) / 16 = 176/16 = 11 teeth, the rapport based on the basis will be: R _о = 46 11 = 506 threads. The vertices of the second (Fig. 4-e), third (Fig. 4-g) and subsequent teeth are shifted 16 threads down, forming a descending line of the vertices of the teeth. The weave pattern is shown in FIG. 4-h

Claims (1)

A method for producing longitudinal zigzag shadow weave fabrics, which consists in forming teeth on the surface of the fabric located in an ascending or descending line, formed by inclined volumetric light strips that change their width and direction along the width of the fabric, in choosing the base weave of the main class, in choosing one of the systems filaments as active, forming the initial shadow weave along the passive system of filaments with reinforcement of single overlap along the warp or along the weft; in the selection of the number of warp threads K _about to break on the basis, the formation of the first and second fragments of the first tooth and the tooth as a whole with the subsequent formation of the second tooth, characterized in that the weft pattern R is determined _{for the} longitudinal zigzag shadow weave according to mathematical expressions:
with an active warp system:
- with an odd rapport of R _{b of the} base weave
R _y = 2R _b [R _b (R _b -1) -1],
- with even rapport R _b
R _y = R _b [R _b (R _b -1) -1];
with an active system of weft threads and any rapport R _b :
R _y = 2 [R _b (R _b -1) -1];
to change the angle of raising or lowering the ascending or descending line of the teeth of the shadow zigzag weave on the surface of the fabric, the vertex shift value ± S _c , which is a multiple of the rapport R _{b of the} base weave with an active system of warp threads within R _b ≤ | S _in | ≤ R _y - R _b , with an active system of weft yarns within R _b ≤ | S _in | ≤R _y -2 (R _b -1) weft yarns, then the number of warp yarns K _{о is} taken to fracture the base in each tooth, given that, on the one hand, the number of threads K _о ≥S _in + R _b +2, and, on the other hand, with an active system the subject of warp threads K _o ≥2 [R _b (R _b -1 -1) -1], with an active weft system and an odd rapport of R _b base weave, the number of threads K _o ≥2R _b [R _b (R _b -1) -1 ], and with even rapport R _b K _o ≥R _b [R _b (R _b -1) -1] warp; determine the rapport R _{s of the} tooth, the number n _{s of} teeth in the rapport based on and the rapport on the basis of R _{about the} longitudinal zigzag shadow weave according to mathematical expressions:
R _s = 2K _o -S _in -2;
n _s = HOC (R _y , S _c ) / S _in (HOC is the least common multiple);
R _o = R _s n _s ;
after which, on the basis of the original shadow weave, inclined light strips are formed in the first and second fragments of the first tooth and the tooth as a whole of a longitudinal zigzag shadow weave, taking into account the obtained K _о and R _{for the} threads; forming a second and subsequent teeth carried with the received displacement amount _into the vertices ± S.

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