RU2483147C1 - Method of obtaining tissue with longitudinal shadow weave - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: textiles, paper.

SUBSTANCE: method of obtaining tissue with longitudinal shadow weaves with volume light stripes is claimed. The method consists in gradual transition along the weft from the basic weaves of the main class with a lighter weft effect to the interlacing of to the main class with a darker main effect or vice versa. This is due to the gradual increase of single interlacing in stages made along the warp up or along the weft to the right. In the rapport the weaves of several longitudinal volume light stripes of different width are formed. The number k₍₎ of stripes in the rapport of shadow weave is taken, a kind of initial light effects in the stripes - from light to shadow or from shadow to light, depending on which the basic weave with the rapport R_b is taken. The number of stages of the transition from light to shadow (or from shadow to light) is found in each longitudinal light stripe equal to R_b-1. The k₍₎ of sequences of repetitions of the rapports in the j-th stage of the i-th longitudinal light stripe n_ij is taken. The rapport R₍₎ of weave on the warp is determined as the amount of threads in the first longitudinal stripes, which are in turn the sum of the warp threads in the direct R_d.i and reverse R_rev.i light transitions. The rapport R_w of the weft is defined as equal to the rapport R_b of the basic weave on certain formulas.

EFFECT: diversification of tissues by obtaining on its surface of the visual effect of several longitudinal volume light strips different in width.

3 cl, 7 dwg

Description

The invention relates to the production of textile materials and for the manufacture of fabrics of shadow weaves, belonging to the class of fine-grain, produced on weaving machines equipped with a carriage shedding mechanism or a jacquard machine.

A known method of producing fabrics of diagonal weaves, creating on the surface of the fabric single-plane embossed longitudinal stripes of different widths, changing their direction along the width of the fabric [RF Patent 2262558, IPC ⁷ D03D 23/00. A method of obtaining fabrics of diagonal weaves. / Maletskaya S.V., Maletsky V.V .; Applicant and patent holder State educational institution of higher professional education “Ulyanovsk State Technical University”. No. 2004114388/12; declared 05/11/2004; publ. 10.20.2005, - 3 pp.: 5 ill.]. The direction of the relief longitudinal stripes along the width of the fabric is changed by changing the sign of the vertical shift of the ceilings to the opposite after a given number of warp threads. A multiple change in the direction of the relief longitudinal strips on the surface of the fabric is achieved by successively changing the sign of the vertical shift several times; for this, the previously obtained diagonal weave is used as the basic weave.

The disadvantage of the analogue method is that the use of diagonal weaves as the base weaves does not allow us to obtain the visual effect of longitudinal volumetric light bands on the surface of the fabric.

The prototype adopted a method of obtaining fabrics of shadow weaves, creating a visual effect of longitudinal light stripes on the surface of the fabric, obtained by gradually moving along the weft from the base weaves of the main class with a lighter weft effect (weft twill or satin) to the weaves of the main class with a darker main effect (main twill or atlas) and vice versa (Fig. 1-a, 1-c, 1-d, 1-g) or vice versa, from basic weaves of the main class with the main effect to weaves of the main class with the weft effect and vice versa (Fig. 1-b, 1-g, 1-e, 1-h) [Martynova A.A., Slostina G.L., Vlasova N.A. The structure and design of fabrics. - M.: RIO MGTA them. A.N. Kosygina, 1999, p. 68-70]. The transition from light to shadow (or from shadow to light) along the weft occurs due to the gradual strengthening of single overlap in the steps of the shadow weave, while the reinforcement can be made along the warp up (Fig. 1-c, 1-d, 1-g, 1 -h) or along the weft to the right (Fig. 1-a, 1-b, 1-d, 1-e), the number of warp yarns in the individual steps is the same and equal to one or more rapports R _{b of the} basic weave. The reverse light transition is performed by sequentially copying the direct light transition of the shadow weave, starting from the penultimate stage to the second, the number of steps of the reverse light transition is two less than the direct one, the shift of the overlap remains equal to the shift of the overlap in the direct light transition of the shadow weave.

The disadvantage of the prototype method is the inability to obtain on the surface of the fabric a visual effect of longitudinal volumetric light bands.

The technical result of the invention is the expansion of the assortment of fabrics by obtaining on their surface a visual effect of several different longitudinally wide volumetric light bands.

The specified technical result is achieved by the fact that in the method for producing fabrics of longitudinal shadow weaves, which consists in a gradual transition along the weft from the base weaves of the main class with a lighter weft effect (weft twill or satin) to the weaves of the main class with a darker main effect (main twill or atlases) or, conversely, due to the gradual strengthening of single ceilings in the steps, running along the warp up or along the weft to the right, according to the invention form a binding Nia several longitudinal bulk light strips of different widths, which accept a number k _O bands in rapport shadow weave, type of initial light effects in the bands - from light to dark or from the shadow to the light, depending on what a receiving base weave with rapport R _b: weft (twill or satin) or main (twill or satin); find the number of stages of transition from light to shadow (or from shadow to light) in each longitudinal light strip equal to R _b - 1; take k _O repeat sequences of repeats in the j-th step of the i-th longitudinal light strip n _{i, j} , determine the repeat pattern R _{O of the} weave on the basis of the sum of the threads in ix longitudinal stripes, which in turn are the sum of the main threads in the direct R _{ave. i} and the reverse R _about.i light transitions, the duck weft pattern R _y is defined as equal to the base weave pattern R _b according to the formulas:

where R _{ave. i} is the number of warp threads in the direct light transition of the i-th light band;

R _about.i - the number of warp threads in the reverse light transition of the i-th light strip:

form longitudinal light bands of shadow weave, for which a direct light transition is built in each light strip with the number of steps equal to R _b - 1 and the number of repetitions of the repeat of the basic weave in each step n _{i, j} times, with R _b placed in each step × n _{i, j} warp yarns and then forming a light return passage with a number of warp yarns _ob.i equal to R, which in each light strip is added to the first fragment of the second weave fragment representing the specular direct reflection horizontal CBE the new transition of the shadow weave, excluding the first and last main threads of the first fragment and changing the direction of the shift of the overlap in the weaving steps to the opposite, to enhance the effect of the volume of the bands, basic weaves with a large rapport are accepted, and the sequence of repetitions of the rapports in the steps is taken from a smaller number to a larger one .

The specified technical result — the creation of new longitudinal shadow weaves to obtain a visual effect of longitudinal longitudinal light bands of different widths — is achieved through the formation of several longitudinal strips of different widths in the repeat pattern, gradually increasing, and then decreasing the number of warp threads in the steps of straight and the reverse light transitions in the bands, the volume of the bands is obtained due to the formation of the reverse light transition by mirroring direct light transition, and by changing the sign of the shift of the ceilings in the steps of weaving to the opposite. To enhance the visualization effect of the volumetricity of longitudinal light strips in the tissues of longitudinal shadow weaves, basic weaves with a large rapport are accepted, and sequences of repetitions of rapports in steps - from a smaller number to a larger one.

The invention is illustrated by drawings, where

- figure 1 shows the shadow weaves obtained by a known prototype method with the transition from light to shadow and back along the weft on the basis of sateen 5/3 and twill 1/4 with reinforcement of the ceilings in steps along the weft (figure 1-a, 1 -e) and along the base (Fig. 1-c, 1-g), with the transition from shadow to light and back along the weft at the base of the atlas 5/2 and twill 4/1 with reinforcement of the ceilings in steps along the weft (Fig. 1 -b, 1-e) and along the base (Fig. 1-d, 1-h);

- figure 2 shows the sequence of construction of the longitudinal shadow weave according to the claimed method: basic weave satin 5/2 (figure 2-a); direct light transition of the first (Fig.2-b) and second (Fig.2-d) longitudinal stripes; reverse light transition of the first (Fig.2-c) and second (Fig.2-d) longitudinal strips;

- figure 3 and figure 4 presents the longitudinal shadow weave with two light strips obtained on the basis of sateen 5/2, with the reinforcement of single ceilings in steps along the warp (Fig.3-a) and along the weft (Fig.4-a ); figure 3-b and 4-b shows the visualization of tissues produced by these weaves;

- Figures 5 and 6 show longitudinal shadow weaves with two light strips with transition from shadow to light and vice versa, based on the atlas 5/2 (Fig. 5-a) and twill 4/1 (Fig. 6-a) c strengthening single ceilings in steps along the weft, with visualization of (5-b and 6-b) tissues;

- Fig.7 shows a longitudinal shadow weave (7-a) and visualization of fabric (7-b) with three light stripes in the rapport, with the transition from shadow to light and back, based on a four-line atlas of 4 / 1,2,3 s increased overlap in the steps of shadow weaving along the weft.

An example of the practical implementation of the method

Several longitudinal volumetric light strips of various widths are formed in the weave pattern, for which the number of light strips is taken, for example, k _O = 2. It is assumed that in the initial lighting effects in each band, a transition is made, for example, from light to shadow, for which they take a basic weave with a weft effect, for example, satin 5/2 (Fig. 2-a) with a rapport of R _b = 5 threads; find the number of steps in each light strip equal to R _b -1 = 5-1 = 4 steps; take k _O sequences, in our example two, repeats of rapports in steps in each strip, for example, for the first strip n _{1, j} = [1 2 3 4], for the second strip n _{2, j} = [1 2 1 1].

Get the first longitudinal light strip, for which they build a direct light transition (Fig.2-b), which is a shadow of sateen in the direction of the duck with the number of steps equal to four, and the accepted sequence of repetitions of sateen rapport in steps n _{1, j} = [1 2 3 4], according to which R _b × n _{11 is} placed in the first step, that is, 5 × 1 = 5 main threads, R _b × n _{12 is} placed in the second step, that is, 5 × 2 = 10 main threads, in the third step the main threads will be R _b × n ₁₃ , that is, 5 × 3 = 15 threads and in the last step - R _b × n ₁₄ , that is, 5 × 4 = 20 threads, while oval ceilings in all steps reinforce, for example, along the base up (Fig.2-b); the number of threads in the direct light transition of the first band according to formula (2) is equal to the sum of the main threads in the steps of the original shadow weave:

then a reverse light transition is formed, for which horizontal mirror copying of the constructed fragment of interlacing is performed, excluding the first and last main threads of the fragment (Fig.2-c), the number of main threads in the reverse light transition of the first light strip is determined by the formula (3):

R _about 1 = R _pp.l -2 = 50-2 = 48 nit .;

the second light strip is formed in the same way, the repeat sequence of satin rapport in the steps of the second light strip is n _{2, j} = [1 2 1 1], the number of main threads in the forward and reverse light transitions will be:

direct light transition of the second light strip is shown in Fig.2-g, the reverse is shown in Fig.2-d; then the light strips are connected together, the resulting weave is shown in Fig. 3-a, here one rapport is shown on the basis, eight rapports are shown for clarity.

The addition of single ceilings when constructing a direct light transition is performed along the base up, as shown in Fig.2 and 3, or along the weft to the right, as shown in Fig.4 - Fig.7.

The longitudinal shadow weave with the effect of longitudinal volumetric light bands is also obtained due to the transition from light to shadow, from weaves with a weft effect, for example, from satin 5/2 (Fig. 4-a), to weaves with the main effect, to atlas 5 / 2 (Fig. 4-a), or, conversely, from weaves with the main effect, for example, from atlas 5/2 (Fig. 5-a) or the main twill 4/1 (Fig. 6-a), to weaves with weft effect, to sateen 5/2 (Fig. 5-a) or weft twill 1/4 (Fig. 6-a), the repetition sequence of the repeat of the base weave in the examples presented in Fig. 4 is fi g.6, in the steps of the first light strip is n _{1, j} = [1 2 3 4], in the steps of the second light strip is n _{2, j} = [1 2 1 1].

Longitudinal shadow weaves with the effect of longitudinal volumetric light stripes include one or more stripes, for example three, as shown in Fig. 7, obtained, for example, on the basis of an irregular four-line atlas 4 / 1,2,3, with reinforcement of individual ceilings in steps in the direction duck, with a sequence of repetitions of the rapport of the base atlas in the steps of the first light strip equal to n _{1, j} = [2 3 2], in the steps of the second strip - n _{2, j} = [1 1 1], in the steps of the third strip - n _{3, j} = [2 2 3] (FIG. 7-a), with visualization of the tissue (FIG. 7-b).

To enhance the visualization effect of the volume of light longitudinal stripes in the fabrics of longitudinal shadow weaves, it is recommended to accept basic weaves with a large rapport, to accept repetition sequences of repeats of basic weaves in steps from a smaller number to a larger one. When using as the base weaves of the main class with a rapport of up to five threads, the fabrics are produced on machines equipped with a carriage shedding mechanism, when repeating the base weave equal to five threads, 20 remises will be required, turning the main threads into heaps - according to the figure, with an increase in the rapport of the basic weaving up to six, seven, eight, etc. threads use a jacquard machine, since the number of differently woven warp threads will be 30, 42, 54, and so on.

Claims (3)

1. A method of obtaining fabrics of longitudinal shadow weaves, which consists in a gradual transition along the weft from the base weaves of the main class with a lighter weft effect (weft twill or satin) to the weaves of the main class with a darker main effect (main twill or satin) or, conversely, due to the gradual strengthening of single ceilings in the steps, running along the warp up or along the weft to the right, characterized in that they form several longitudinal volumetric light bands in the weave pattern of a different width, for which they take the number k _{o of} bands in the shadow weave repeat, the form of the initial lighting effects in the bands - from light to shadow or from shadow to light, depending on what the basic weave with the rapport R _b is taken: weft (twill or satin) or main (twill or satin); find the number of stages of transition from light to shadow (or from shadow to light) in each longitudinal light strip equal to R _b - 1; take k _o repeat sequences of rapports in the j-th stage of the i-th longitudinal light strip n _{i, j} ; determine the weaving pattern R _o based on the basis as the sum of the threads in ix longitudinal strips, which in turn are the sum of the main threads in direct

and vice versa

light transitions, the duck weft pattern R _y is defined as equal to the base weave pattern R _b according to the formulas:

Where

- the number of warp threads in the direct light transition of the i-th light strip;

- the number of warp threads in the reverse light transition of the i-th light strip:

form longitudinal light stripes of shadow weave, for which a direct light transition is built in each light strip with the number of steps equal to R _b - 1, and the number of repetitions of the repeat of the basic weave in each step n _{oi, j} times, with R _b placed in each step × n _{i, j} , warp threads; then form a reverse light transition with the number of warp threads equal to

why, in each light strip, a second fragment is added to the first interlacing fragment, which is a horizontal mirror image of the direct light transition of the shadow interlacing, excluding the first and last main threads of the first fragment and changing the direction of the overlap shift in the interlacing steps to the opposite. 2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the basic weave is taken with a large rapport. 3. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the sequence of repetitions of rapports in steps take from a smaller number to a larger one.

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