RU2438538C1 - Method of constructing raglan sleeve pattern - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: personal use articles. ^ SUBSTANCE: invention relates to a garment industry, namely, the ways of constructing of pattern of raglan sleeves. The essence of the proposed invention consists in the method of constructing of pattern of raglan sleeves performed using segments values from the base of back-piece and forepart, drawing two mutually perpendicular horizontal and vertical lines as the beginning. From the point of intersection of the lines to the point of intersection with the vertical line an arc is to be drawn with a radius equal to the sleeve head, then from the resulting intersection point symmetrically segments are drawn on both sides of the arc that will determine volume of raglan sleeve on top and an equal 1.0-3.0 cm, as a result there will be two points corresponding to the points of the sleeve head. From the sleeve head points symmetrically on both sides of the vertical line a mark is drawn on the horizontal line with radii equal to the length of the armhole of back-piece and forepart respectively, and the resulting points are connected with straight lines with points of the sleeve head. From the points of the sleeve head segments are drawn on the lines drawn before, these segments are equal to the length of the armhole of back-piece and forepart and are drawn till the control points on the drawing of the bases of back-piece and forepart respectively, then from the resulting points perpendiculars are drawn up till the straight lines equal to the value of overtravel of raglan sleeves to the back-piece and forepart and getting the front and back raglan sleeves control points. After this, height points of the sleeve head arcs are drawn up and their radii are equal to the length of the shoulder line, then on the resulting arcs are drawn from the points of intersections with perpendiculars, the marks radii are equal to the length of the segments drawn from the control points on the armholes of back-piece and forepart till the points determining the width of the neck of back-piece and forepart as a result there are points corresponding to the points of the base of neck on the shoulder line, which with straight lines are connected with height points of the sleeve head, from these points arcs with radii equal to the width of the raglan sleeve on the neck line. Then from height points of the sleeve head on the drawn arcs marks are drawn with radii equal to distances from the shoulder points of back-piece and forepart till the points defining the width of the raglan sleeve on neck line on the drawing of back-piece and forepart the resulting points are connected to the points of the base of neck on the shoulder line and the points of intersections with perpendiculars. Further forming with a curve line of raglan sleeve head from the side of back-piece and forepart. The curve is drawn through the back and front control points of the sleeve with deflections equal to deflection of armholes of back-piece and forepart for raglan sleeve and completing the bottom part, raglan sleeve is obtained. The volume of raglan sleeves is reached using the pockets formed by the lines of division, located from the bottom of the sleeve till lines connecting the height points of the sleeve head with the points that define the width of the sleeve under the armholes parallel to the vertical line and then parallel to the lines connecting height points of the sleeve head with to the points of the base of neck on the shoulder line, with the possibility of their opening after the cutting on the value of tucks opening. ^ EFFECT: simplified method of constructing of raglan sleeves, reducing time to draw raglan sleeve, raglan sleeves without the upper seam to get a new three-dimensional shape raglan sleeves, satisfying the modern fashion trends. ^ 5 dwg

Description

The invention relates to the clothing industry, and in particular to methods for constructing patterns for cutting out clothing details.

A known method of constructing a raglan sleeve template / 1, Yanchevskaya EA Designing clothes / E.A. Yanchevskaya. - M .: Academy, 2005. - 384 pp. /, Selected as a prototype, which consists in the fact that the construction of the raglan sleeve template is performed on a two-seam sleeve with front and elbow parts. The peculiarity of the construction is that when constructing the elbow part of the raglan sleeve, the upper part of the back is attached to the okat of the set-in two-seam sleeve. The front half of the raglan sleeve is also built on the basis of a set-in two-seam sleeve, attaching the upper part of the shelf (front) to the ridge of the two-seam sleeve.

This method of constructing a raglan sleeve based on a set-in two-seam sewer requires a lot of time, since it is necessary to first build a set-in two-seam sleeve, and then build a raglan sleeve using the values of the segments from the drawing of the back and the shelf (front) with the designed armhole line. As a result of this construction, a classic raglan sleeve with an upper seam is obtained that does not meet fashion trends, since it does not have bulkiness in the upper part of the sleeve.

The objective of the invention is, firstly, to simplify the method of constructing a raglan sleeve, secondly, to reduce the time to build a raglan sleeve, and thirdly, to build a raglan sleeve without an upper seam to obtain a new three-dimensional shape of the raglan sleeve that meets the modern trend.

The essence of the invention lies in the fact that the method of constructing the raglan sleeve template is performed using the values of the segments from the drawing of the back and shelf base and begin by drawing two mutually perpendicular vertical and horizontal lines. From the point of intersection of the straight lines up, an arc is drawn to the intersection with a vertical line with a radius equal to the height of the okat, then from the obtained point of intersection symmetrically on both sides along the arc, segments are laid out that determine the volume of the raglan sleeve at the top and are equal to 1.0-3.0 cm, as a result what do the points corresponding to the points of height of the okata get. From the points of height of the okata symmetrically on both sides of the vertical line, serifs are placed on the horizontal line with radii equal to the length of the armhole of the back and shelf, respectively, and the points obtained are connected by straight lines to the points of height of the okata. From the points of height of the okata on the previously drawn straight lines, segments equal to the lengths of the armhole of the back and the shelf are laid off to the control points in the drawing of the back and shelf base, then from the obtained points to the straight lines the perpendiculars equal to the values of the raglan sleeve approaching the back and the shelf are restored, receiving the front and back control points of raglan sleeves. After that, from the height points of the okata, upward arcs with radii equal to the length of the shoulder line are drawn, then serrations are made on the arcs obtained from the base points for restoring perpendiculars with radii equal to the length of the segments from the control points on the armhole of the back and the shelf to the points that determine the width of the neck of the back and the shelf, as a result, points corresponding to the points of the base of the neck along the shoulder line are obtained, which are connected by straight lines with the points of height of the ridge of the sleeve and from which arc is made with radii equal to the width of the raglan sleeve along the line and neck. Then, on the drawn arcs from the points of height of the okata, serrations are made with radii equal to the distances from the shoulder points of the back and the shelf to the points that determine the width of the raglan sleeve along the neckline in the drawing of the back and shelf base, the obtained points are connected with the points of the base of the neck along the shoulder line and with the points bases of restoration of perpendiculars. Further, making out the lines of okatana of the raglan sleeve from the back and the shelf with smooth curves passing through the front and back control points of the sleeve, as well as using deflections equal to the values of the deflections during the design of the armhole of the back and the shelves for the raglan sleeve, and building the lower part, we get the raglan sleeves . The volume of the raglan sleeve is achieved by pinches formed by dividing lines located from the bottom of the sleeve to the lines connecting the height points of the okata with the points determining the width of the sleeve under the armhole, parallel to the vertical line and then parallel to the lines connecting the height points of the okata with the points of the neck base along the shoulder line, with the possibility of their dilution after incision on the size of the solution of pinches.

The invention is illustrated by drawings.

Figure 1 - Appearance of the raglan sleeve:

a) front view;

b) rear view.

Figure 2 - A method of constructing a raglan sleeve:

a) the basis of the drawing of the back and shelves (front);

b) the construction of the raglan sleeve.

Figure 3 - Modeling a raglan sleeve template for volume.

The construction of the raglan sleeve is carried out not on the drawing of the backrest and shelf base structure, constructed with certain features in the well-known method / 1 / (Fig. 2a), but is built in a separate drawing, using the necessary values of the segments from the back and shelf base drawing. To obtain a raglan sleeve without an upper seam, two mutually perpendicular straight lines are drawn: a horizontal line defining the line of width of the sleeve under the armhole, and a vertical line that is an axial line (Fig. 2b). The intersection of two mutually perpendicular lines is the point O ₁ . Then determine the height of the okat, for which from the point O ₁ , as from the center, an arc is drawn upward with a radius equal to the height of the okat. The intersection of the arc with the vertical (center line) is indicated by the point O ₂ . The value of the height of the okat take from the drawing of the basis of the back and shelves (figa). From the point O ₂ along the arc in both directions, the segments O ₂ O ₂ 'and O ₂ O ₂ ''(Fig.2b), with a value of not less than 1.0 cm and not more than 3.0 cm, define the volume of the sleeve at the top. Points O ₂ 'and O ₂ ''are points of height of the okat. From the point O ₂ down lay the segment O ₂ In ₁ equal to 1/3 of the segment O ₁ O ₂ . Points O ₂ ′ and B ₁ and points O ₂ ″ and B _{1 are} connected by smooth curves.

After that, determine the width of the sleeve under the armhole, for which, from the point of height of the okata O ₂ ', as from the center, an arc with a radius equal to the length of the armhole of the shelf P ₅ G _{2 is} drawn to the right (Fig. 2a). The intersection of this arc with the line of width of the sleeve under the armhole is indicated by the point P ₁ defining the width of the sleeve under the armhole (Fig.2b). From the point of height of the okata O ₂ '', as from the center, an arc is drawn to the left with a radius equal to the length of the armhole of the back P ₁₁ G ₂ (Fig. 2a). The intersection of this arc with the line of width of the raglan sleeve under the armhole is indicated by the point P ₂ defining the width of the sleeve under the armhole (Fig.2b). The values of the segments P ₅ G ₂ and P ₁₁ G ₂ are taken from the drawing of the back and shelf base (FIG. 2a). The value of the segment P ₁ P ₃ corresponds to the width of the raglan sleeve under the armhole (Fig.2b).

Then, the position of the front and rear control points is determined, for which the points O ₁ ′ and P ₁ and the points O ₂ ″ and P ₂ are connected first along straight lines (FIG. 2b). After that, from the point of the height of the okay O ₂ 'in a straight line O ₂ ' P ₁ lay the segment, the value of which is equal to the length of the armhole of the shelf to the front control point (segment P ₅ P ₆ , figa), and get the base point of restoration of the perpendicular P ₆ ' (figb). Similarly, from the point of the height of the okay O ₂ ″ in a straight line O ₂ ″ P _{2, a} segment is laid, the value of which is equal to the length of the armhole of the back to the rear control point (segment P ₁₁ P ₃ , figa), and get the base point of restoration of the perpendicular P ₃ '(fig.2b). From point P ₆ ', the perpendicular is restored to the straight line O ₂ ' P ₁ equal to the size of the approach of the raglan sleeve to the shelf P ₆ P ₆₁ taken from the drawing of the shelf and back (Fig. 2a), and a front control point P ₆ '' is obtained (Fig. .2b). Also, from the point P ₃ ′, the perpendicular is restored to the straight line O ₂ ″ P ₂ equal to the size of the approach of the raglan sleeve to the back P ₃ P ₃₁ taken from the drawing of the shelf and back (Fig. 2a), and a rear control point P ₃ ″ is obtained (figb).

To build the line of okatana sleeves raglan sleeve from the side of the shelf, from the point of height of the okat O ₂ ', as from the center, draw an arc with a radius equal to the length of the shoulder line (segment A ₉ P ₅ , figa). From the base point of restoration of the perpendicular P ₆ '(fig.2b), as from the center, draw an arc with a radius equal to the length of the segment connecting the control point on the shelf P ₆ with a point defining the width of the neck of the shelf A ₉ in a straight line (fig.2a). The intersection with the previously conducted arc is indicated by the base point of the neck along the shoulder line A ₉ '(fig.2b). Points O ₂ 'and A ₉ ' are connected together in a straight line. Then find the position of the point A ₉₁ ', for this from the point of the height of the okay O ₂ ', as from the center, draw an arc with a radius equal to the distance from the shoulder point P ₅ to the point that determines the width of the sleeve along the neckline A ₉₁ in a straight line (Fig.2a ) On this arc, a notch is made from the point of the base of the neck along the shoulder line A ₉ '(Fig. 2b) with a radius equal to the width of the sleeve along the neckline A ₉ A ₉₁ (Fig. 2a), as a result of which point A ₉₁ ' is obtained (Fig. 2b) ) Points A ₉ ′ and A ₉₁ ′ are interconnected by a smooth line repeating the configuration of line A ₉ A ₉₁ (FIG. 2 a), and points A ₉₁ ′ and P ₆ ′ are connected by a straight line (FIG. 2 b). Similarly, the line of okatana of the raglan sleeve is constructed from the back side, for which an arc with a radius equal to the length of the shoulder line (segment A ₂ P ₁₁ , Fig. 2a) is drawn from the point of okat height O ₂ '', as from the center. From the base point of restoration of the perpendicular P ₃ '(Fig.2b), as from the center, draw an arc with a radius equal to the length of the segment connecting the control point on the back of P ₃ with a point defining the width of the neck of the back A ₂ in a straight line (Fig.2a). The intersection with the previously conducted arc is indicated by the point of the base of the neck along the shoulder line A ₂ '(fig.2b). Points O ₂ ″ and A ₂ ″ are interconnected in a straight line. Next, find the position of point A ₂₁ ', for this, from an oval height point O ₂ ″, as from the center, draw an arc with a radius equal to the distance from the shoulder point P ₃ to a point that defines the sleeve width along the neckline A ₂₁ in a straight line (Fig. 2a). On this arc, a notch is made from the point of the base of the neck along the shoulder line A ₂ '(Fig. 2b) with a radius equal to the width of the sleeve along the neckline A ₂ A ₂₁ (Fig. 2a), as a result of which point A ₂₁ ' is obtained (Fig. 2b) ) Points A ₂ ′ and A ₂₁ ′ are connected together by a smooth line repeating the configuration of line A ₂ A ₂₁ (FIG. 2 a), and points A ₂₁ ′ and P ₃ ′ are connected by a straight line (FIG. 2 b).

Then draw a line of okati raglan sleeves, for which the midpoints of segments A ₉₁ 'P ₆ ', A ₂₁ 'P ₃ ' and P ₃ 'P _{2 are found} , they are designated by points 3', 5 'and 7' (fig.2b). From these points, perpendicular to the segments A ₉₁ 'P ₆ ', A ₂₁ 'P ₃ ' and P ₃ 'P _{2, the} concavity values of the sleeve line are plotted, which are equal to the following values: segment 3'-4' is 3-4, segment 5 '-6' is 5-6 and the segment 7'-8 'is from 1.0 to 3.0 cm. From point P ₆ ', the perpendicular is lowered to the line of the width of the raglan sleeve under the armhole, get the auxiliary point G ₄ 'and on the bisector angle P ₆ 'G ₄ ' P ₁ find the point 2 ', the segment G ₄ ' -2 '(Fig.2B) is equal to the segment G ₄ -2 (Fig.2A). The okat line of the raglan sleeve from the side of the shelf is formed into a smooth curve connecting the points P ₁ , 2 ', P ₆ '',4' and A ₉₁ '(Fig.2b). The okat line of the raglan sleeve from the back side is formed by a smooth curve, connecting the points P ₂ , 8 ', P ₃ '',6' and A ₂₁ '.

After that, the raglan sleeve is completed below the line of width of the raglan sleeve under the armhole. From point O ₂ downwardly lay the length of the sleeve. Through point M draw a horizontal level of the bottom of the sleeve. The position of the lower points of the front (point M ₁ ) and back (point M ₂ ) lines of the raglan sleeve on the horizontal of the bottom level is determined by the width of the sleeve below in the finished form, which is selected in accordance with the model. Then draw the front and back line of the raglan sleeve, for which the points P ₁ and M ₁ and the points P ₂ and M _{2 are} connected by straight lines (fig.2b).

In order to obtain a three-dimensional shape in the upper part of the raglan sleeve corresponding to fashion trends, tucks are formed using modeling techniques, namely, conical expansion (Fig. 3). For this purpose, conditional lines of dividing the raglan sleeve are applied, which are drawn parallel to the axial line from the bottom line of the raglan sleeve to the line connecting the height points of the okata with the points determining the width of the sleeve under the armhole, and then parallel to the lines connecting the height points of the okata with the neck base points along the shoulder line symmetrically in both directions, then to obtain more rectified segments of the division they are cut at the level of fracture. After that, the strips of the dissected raglan sleeve are bred symmetrically in both directions. The size of the pinch solution is selected depending on the desired volume.

The proposed method is characterized by the following essential features:

1. The construction of the raglan sleeve is carried out in a separate drawing, using the values of the segments from the drawing of the back of the back and the shelf with a decorated armhole line.

2. The construction of the raglan sleeve begins with two mutually perpendicular straight lines.

3. Determine the height of the okat.

4. Determine the width of the sleeve under the armhole relative to the points corresponding to the height of the okat, using the length of the armhole of the back and shelves.

5. Determine the position of the front and rear control points relative to the points corresponding to the height of the okat, using the length of the armhole of the back and shelves to the control points.

6. Build the upper sections of the okatana of the raglan sleeve relative to the points corresponding to the height of the okat and points corresponding to the front and rear control signs, while the values of the delayed segments are taken from the drawing of the back and shelf base.

7. The line of okata sleeves make out a smooth curve with deflections, the values of which coincide with the values of deflections used in the design of the line of the armhole of the back and shelves.

8. To obtain a three-dimensional shape in the upper part of the raglan sleeve, tucks are modeled by conical expansion.

The closest prototype / 1 / is characterized by the following essential features:

1. Raglan sleeves are constructed on the basis of a two-seam set-in sleeve with front and rear parts.

2. Build the elbow part of the raglan sleeve, attaching the upper back to the two-seam sleeve, using the values of the segments from the back drawing.

3. Build the front half of the raglan sleeve on the basis of the set-in sleeve, attaching the upper part of the shelf (front) to the ridge of the front half of the two-seam sleeve, using the values of the segments from the drawing of the shelf.

A comparative analysis of the proposed method with the prototype / 1 / shows that the inventive method of constructing a raglan sleeve template has a novelty in the following ways:

1. The construction of the raglan sleeve begins with two mutually perpendicular straight lines.

2. Determine the width of the sleeve under the armhole relative to the points corresponding to the height of the okat, using the length of the armhole of the back and shelves.

3. Determine the position of the front and rear control points relative to the points corresponding to the height of the okat, using the length of the armhole of the back and the shelf to the control points.

4. Build the upper sections of the raglan sleeve relative to the points corresponding to the height of the okat and points corresponding to the front and rear control signs, while the values of the delayed segments are taken from the drawing of the back and shelf base, with the armhole line drawn.

5. The line of okata sleeves draw a smooth curve with deflections, the value of which coincides with the magnitude of the deflections used in the design of the armhole line of the back and shelves.

6. To obtain a three-dimensional shape in the upper part of the raglan sleeve, tucks are formed due to the conical expansion.

The presence of these features ensures that the technical solution meets the criterion of novelty. When comparing the proposed solution with other well-known technical solutions, the listed signs of novelty were not found, which allows us to conclude that there are significant differences between the proposed method for constructing the raglan sleeve template.

The technical result from the application of this method of constructing a raglan sleeve template is expressed in the following:

1. Simplification of the method of constructing a raglan sleeve without an upper seam due to the fact that the construction of a raglan sleeve is carried out in a separate drawing, using the values of the segments from the drawing of the back and shelf base with a decorated armhole line.

2. A significant reduction in the time spent on the construction of a raglan sleeve without an upper seam due to the exclusion of time for the construction of a set-in two-seam sleeve.

3. The simplicity and readability of the design drawing of the raglan sleeve due to the lack of construction lines and designations related to the drawing of the back and shelf base.

4. Obtaining a new three-dimensional shape of the raglan sleeve that meets modern fashion trends through modeling.

5. The manufacturability of the raglan sleeve design by eliminating the processing operations of the upper seam.

Industrial applicability lies in the fact that this method of constructing a raglan sleeve template can be used in mass production using modern technological equipment.

Claims (1)

A method of constructing a raglan sleeve template using the values of the segments from the drawing of the back and shelf base, characterized in that the construction of the raglan sleeve begins with two mutually perpendicular vertical and horizontal lines, from the point of intersection of which upward arc is drawn to the intersection with a vertical line with a radius equal to the height okata, then from the obtained intersection point symmetrically on both sides in an arc lay the segments that determine the volume of the raglan sleeve at the top and equal to 1.0-3.0 cm, and get the points, respectively points to the height of the okata, from which symmetrically on both sides of the vertical line they make serifs on the horizontal line with radii equal respectively to the length of the armhole of the back and the shelf, and the resulting points are connected by straight lines to the points of height of the okata, from which segments equal to the lengths of the armhole of the back and the shelf to the control points, respectively, in the drawing of the back and shelf base, then from the obtained points to the straight lines, the perpendiculars equal to the values of the approach of the regulation sleeve are restored upwards n on the back and on the shelf, receiving the front and rear control points of the raglan sleeve, after which from the points of the height of the okata draw up arcs with radii equal to the length of the shoulder line, then on the resulting arcs put serifs from points of restoration of perpendicular radii equal to the length of the segments from the control points on the armhole of the back and the shelf to the points that determine the width of the neck of the back and the shelf, getting the points corresponding to the points of the base of the neck along the shoulder line, which are connected by straight lines with the points of height of the sleeve ridge and from which arcs with radii equal to the width of the raglan sleeve along the neckline, then, on the arcs obtained from the points of height of the okata, serifs are set with radii equal to the distances from the shoulder points of the back and the shelf to the points determining the width of the raglan sleeve along the neckline in the drawing of the back and the shelf, the resulting points are connected with points of the base of the neck along the shoulder line and with points of the base of restoration of the perpendiculars, form the lines of okatana of the raglan sleeve from the back and shelf side with smooth curves passing through the front and back control points sleeves, using deflections equal to the values of deflections during the design of the armholes of the back and the shelves for a raglan sleeve, and complete the lower part, obtaining a raglan sleeve, the volume of which is achieved by pinches formed by dividing lines located from the bottom of the sleeve to the lines connecting the points of height of the okata with points, determining the width of the sleeve under the armhole, and running parallel to the vertical line and then parallel to the lines connecting the points of height of the okat with points of the base of the neck along the shoulder line, with the possibility of their breeding after cutting s tucks solution.

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