RO115457B1

RO115457B1 - Silk-type fabric and process for producing the same

Info

Publication number: RO115457B1
Application number: RO99-00464A
Authority: RO
Inventors: Eugenia Ciocoiu; Vasile Micliuc; Emilia Grigoraş; Mioara Corciovă
Original assignee: S.C. "Tomiris" S.A.
Priority date: 1999-04-23
Filing date: 1999-04-23
Publication date: 2000-02-28

Abstract

The invention relates to a silk-type fabric applicable to manufacturing outerwear articles and it also relates to a process for producing the same. The fabric is made up of 167 dtex polyester yarns and has 210...470 yarns / 10 cm sett of warp threads and 210...340 yarns/ 10 cm weft count, the fabric relaxation being performed in Jet type apparata at a temperature of 110...130 degrees C, for 30...60 min, in a solution of 1...2% of fold-preventing products, the soft finishing concomitently with drying is carried out at the temperature of 90 degrees C, with a speed of 25...50 m / min and feed 10...15%, and storing for relaxation is carried out for 480...1,440 min on continually moving large batched rolls wrapped with polyethylene sheet.

Description

RO 115457 BRO 115457 B

Invenția se referă la o țesătură tip mătase, destinată confecționării articolelor de îmbrăcăminte exterioară, și la un procedeu de realizare a acesteia.The invention relates to a silk-type fabric, intended for the manufacture of outerwear, and to a process for its production.

Se cunoaște o țesătură tip mătase, care are în compoziție fire sintetice, de exemplu poliamidă și fire de mătase artificială, cu o torsiune de 1800...2500 tors/m, acestea fiind diferite în urzeală și bătătură.A silk-type fabric is known, which has in its composition synthetic threads, for example polyamide and artificial silk threads, with a twist of 1800...2500 twists/m, these being different in warp and weft.

Această țesătură prezintă dezavantajul că cele două categorii de fire au capacități de vopsire foarte diferite, ceea ce nu permite vopsirea acestora în aceeași baie și țesătura rezultată are tușeu aspru și elasticitate redusă.This fabric has the disadvantage that the two categories of yarns have very different dyeing capabilities, which does not allow them to be dyed in the same bath and the resulting fabric has a rough texture and low elasticity.

Se mai cunoaște o țesătură tip mătase, care are atât în urzeală, cât și în bătătură, fire bicomponente poliester cu vâscoză, rotosetate, și are un procedeu de finisare complicat, datorită componenței fibroase.A silk-type fabric is also known, which has, both in the warp and the weft, two-component polyester yarns with viscose, rotosetted, and has a complicated finishing process, due to the fibrous composition.

Această țesătură prezintă dezavantajul unui aspect melanj, voluminozitate mică și lipsă drapaj.This fabric has the disadvantage of a melange look, low bulkiness and lack of drape.

Problema tehnică pe care o rezolvă invenția este de a realiza o țesătură cu aspect apropiat de țesăturile din fire naturale, cu grad mare de umplere, cu stabilitate dimensională și o prelucrabilitate foarte bună în confecții.The technical problem that the invention solves is to create a fabric with an appearance close to natural yarn fabrics, with a high degree of filling, with dimensional stability and a very good workability in garments.

Țesătura tip mătase, conform invenției, înlătură dezavantajele menționate prin aceea că este constituită din fire de poliester de finețe 167 dtex și are desimea de 210...470 fire/10 cm în urzeală și 210...340 fire/10 cm în bătătură, iar procedeul pentru realizarea țesăturii constă în relaxarea țesăturii, care se realizează în aparate tip Jet, la temperatura de 110...130° C, timp de 30...60 min, într-o soluție de 1 ...2 % produse anticute.emolierea concomitent cu semiuscarea care se face la temperatura de 90° C, cu viteza de 25...50 m/min și avans 10...15 %, iar depozitarea pentru relaxare făcându-se timp de 480...1440 min pe caole în continuă mișcare, acoperite cu folie de polietilenă.The silk type fabric, according to the invention, removes the disadvantages mentioned in that it is made of polyester threads of fineness 167 dtex and has a density of 210...470 threads/10 cm in the warp and 210...340 threads/10 cm in the weft , and the procedure for making the fabric consists in relaxing the fabric, which is done in Jet type devices, at a temperature of 110...130° C, for 30...60 min, in a 1...2% solution antique products. softening simultaneously with semi-drying at a temperature of 90° C, with a speed of 25...50 m/min and an advance of 10...15 %, and storage for relaxation for 480... 1440 min on continuously moving pans, covered with polyethylene film.

Prin aplicarea invenției se obțin următoarele avantaje: tușeu foarte moale, drapaj, voluminozitate mare, permeabilitate mare la aer și vapori de apă, elasticitate mare, asemănătoare articolelor tricotate.By applying the invention, the following advantages are obtained: very soft feel, drape, high volume, high permeability to air and water vapor, high elasticity, similar to knitted articles.

8e dau în continuare trei exemple de realizare a țesăturii tip mătase, conform invenției.8e further give three examples of the realization of the silk-type fabric according to the invention.

Conform primului exemplu de realizare, se formează o țesătură cu legătura pânză, care are în urzeală fire de poliester, de finețe 167/34 x 2/0 set rotoset, cu o desime de 210 fire/10 cm, iar în bătătură, fire de poliester de finețe 167/34 x2/0 set, cu o desime de 210 fire/10 cm.According to the first embodiment, a cloth-bonded fabric is formed, which has polyester threads in the warp, fineness 167/34 x 2/0 set rotoset, with a thickness of 210 threads/10 cm, and in the weft, threads of fineness polyester 167/34 x2/0 set, with a thickness of 210 threads/10 cm.

Țesătura crudă astfel obținută se menține pentru relaxare timp de 30 min întrun aparat tip Jet, la temperatura de 130° C într-o soluție de 1 % produs anticute Imacol; urmează degresarea la o temperatură de 80° C timp de 60 min cu o soluție ce conține 1 % sodă calcinată, 1 % aldetal și 1 % Imacol, apoi acidularea cu 0,5 % acid acetic.The raw fabric obtained in this way is kept for relaxation for 30 min in a Jet-type device, at a temperature of 130° C in a solution of 1% anticute Imacol product; followed by degreasing at a temperature of 80° C for 60 min with a solution containing 1% soda ash, 1% aldetal and 1% Imacol, then acidification with 0.5% acetic acid.

Vopsirea se realizează cu coloranți de dispersie la temperatura de 130 °C, timp de 120 min, urmată de spălare și clătire, în sine cunoscute.Dyeing is carried out with dispersion dyes at a temperature of 130 °C for 120 min, followed by washing and rinsing, known per se.

Țesătura vopsită se supune unei noi emolieri cu 2 % Tubingal WS, concomitent cu o semiuscare pe rama Bruckner la temperatura de 90° C, cu o viteză de 25 m /min și avans 15 %, apoi se depozitează pentru relaxare timp de 1440 min pe o caolă în continuă mișcare, acoperită cu o folie de polietilenă în vederea menținerii unei umidități constante și uniforme în masa țesăturii, după care este supusă unei emolieri și termofixări finale la temperatura de 180° C, cu viteza de 25 m /min într-o soluție de 1 % Tubingal WS și acid acetic pentru un pH 5-6.The dyed fabric is subjected to a new softening with 2% Tubingal WS, simultaneously with a semi-drying on the Bruckner frame at a temperature of 90°C, with a speed of 25 m/min and a feed of 15%, then stored for relaxation for 1440 min on a continuous moving web, covered with a polyethylene film in order to maintain a constant and uniform humidity in the mass of the fabric, after which it is subjected to a final softening and thermosetting at a temperature of 180° C, at a speed of 25 m/min in a solution of 1 % Tubingal WS and acetic acid for a pH of 5-6.

Țesătura astfel rezultată are masa de 170 g/mp și aspect asemănător articolelor din bumbac.The resulting fabric has a mass of 170 g/m2 and looks similar to cotton articles.

Claims

RO 115457 B

According to the second embodiment, a 2/1 diagonal weave fabric is formed. which has 167/32/120 dtex fineness polyester threads in the warp and weft, with a warp count of 470 threads/10 cm, and in the weft, with a count of 340 threads/10 cm.

The raw fabric obtained in this way is kept for relaxation for 60 min in a Jet-type device, at a temperature of 120°C, in a 1.5% solution of Imacol antiques, then degreasing, acidification, dyeing, washing and rinsing, according to the first embodiment.

The dyed fabric is again softened with 2% Tubingal WS simultaneously with semi-drying on the Bruckner frame at a temperature of 90°0 at a speed of 60 35m/min with a feed of 12%, then stored for relaxation for 1200 min, according to the first embodiment.

The fabric thus obtained has a mass of 250 g/m2 and an appearance similar to woolen articles.

According to the third embodiment, a 65-weave fabric is formed, which has 167/32/120 dtex fineness polyester threads in the warp, with a thickness of 320 threads/10 cm, and in the weft, threads of fineness polyester 167/32x2/0 dtex, with a thickness of 275 threads/10 cm.

The raw fabric obtained in this way is kept for relaxation for 45 min in a Jet type device, at a temperature of 1100°C in a 2% solution of anticute 70 Imacol product, then degreasing, acidulation, dyeing, washing and rinsing follows, according to the first two examples of implementation.

The dyed fabric is softened with 2% Tubingal WS concurrently with semi-drying on the Bruckner frame at a temperature of 900°C at a speed of 50 m/min and a feed of 10%, then stored for relaxation for 480 min according to 75 of the first two embodiments.

The fabric thus obtained has a mass of 200 g/m2 and an appearance similar to linen articles.

Claims 80

1. Silk-type fabric, intended for the manufacture of outerwear, with a weight of 170...250 g/m2 and an appearance similar to articles made of natural yarns, characterized by the fact that it is made of polyester yarns of fineness 167 dtex and has a density of 210...470 threads/10 cm in warp and 210...340 threads/10 85 cm in weft.

2. Process for making the fabric defined in claim 1, in which the fabric is subjected to relaxation, degreasing, dyeing, softening simultaneously with semi-drying, storage for relaxation, softening and final heat setting, characterized in that the relaxation is carried out in Jet type devices, at the temperature of 110...130° C, for 90 30...60 min, in a solution of 1...2 % ancient products, softening simultaneously with semi-drying is done at the temperature of 90° C, with the speed of 25...50 m/min and advance 10...15 %, and storage for relaxation is done for 480...1440 min on continuously moving piles, covered with polyethylene film.

The president of the examination committee: Eng. loan Cristea Petrescu

Examiner: Eng. Naicu Angela

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