PL244324B1 - Oil-in-water eye cream - Google Patents
Oil-in-water eye cream Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- PL244324B1 PL244324B1 PL438528A PL43852821A PL244324B1 PL 244324 B1 PL244324 B1 PL 244324B1 PL 438528 A PL438528 A PL 438528A PL 43852821 A PL43852821 A PL 43852821A PL 244324 B1 PL244324 B1 PL 244324B1
- Authority
- PL
- Poland
- Prior art keywords
- phase
- water
- oil
- glycerin
- jojoba oil
- Prior art date
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- 239000006071 cream Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 14
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 30
- 229940119170 jojoba wax Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 18
- 235000011187 glycerol Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 15
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- 125000001117 oleyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])/C([H])=C([H])\C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 claims abstract description 4
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- 230000008591 skin barrier function Effects 0.000 description 1
- 206010040872 skin infection Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 230000036560 skin regeneration Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000000365 steroidogenetic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000000638 stimulation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000000475 sunscreen effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000516 sunscreening agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000013589 supplement Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000002195 synergetic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000003786 synthesis reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 150000003505 terpenes Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000007586 terpenes Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940126702 topical medication Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 150000008130 triterpenoid saponins Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229940045136 urea Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000015112 vegetable and seed oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000008158 vegetable oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940046009 vitamin E Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000019165 vitamin E Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011709 vitamin E Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000001993 wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019386 wax ester Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000029663 wound healing Effects 0.000 description 1
Classifications
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- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/06—Emulsions
- A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4906—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/4913—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having five membered rings, e.g. pyrrolidone carboxylic acid
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- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
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- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/498—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
- A61K8/645—Proteins of vegetable origin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/735—Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
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- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
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- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
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Abstract
Przedmiotem zgłoszenia jest krem pod oczy typu olej w wodzie, który składa się z pięciu komponentów, z czego trzy z nich zawierają następujące składniki aktywne: olej jojoba lub erukan oleilu, ekstrakt glicerynowy z kory albicji jedwabistej i darutozyd.The subject of the application is an oil-in-water eye cream, which consists of five components, three of which contain the following active ingredients: jojoba oil or oleyl erucan, glycerine extract from the bark of silky albicia and darutoside.
Description
Wynalazek dotyczy kremu pod oczy typu olej w wodzie o działaniu przeciwobrzękowym i zmniejszającym zasinienia wokół oczu.The invention concerns an oil-in-water eye cream with anti-swelling properties and reducing bruises around the eyes.
5,7-dihydroxy-2-fenylo-4H-1-benzopiran-4-on to flawonoid występujący w różnych roślinach leczniczych np. w tarczycy bajkalskiej (Scutellaria baicalensis). Występuje również w miodzie, propolisie, marakui (Passiflora caerulea i Passiflora incarnata), w roślinie Oroxylum indicum, marchwi (Daucus carota), rumianku (Matricaria chamomilla), wielu owocach oraz w grzybach, takich jak grzyb Pleurotus ostreatus. Jest pozyskiwany z różnych roślin, takich jak np. męczennica niebieska (Passiflora caerulea). W badaniach in vitro wykazano, że działa jak inhibitor aromatazy, a ponadto może pobudzać procesy steroidogenezy. Przypisuje się mu również zdolność do zwiększania wrażliwości komórek Leydiga na stymulację cAMP, co może przełożyć się na wzmocnienie syntezy testosteronu. Wykazuje ponadto szerokie spektrum właściwości prozdrowotnych. Ma potencjał przeciwnowotworowy i może podnieść skuteczność klasycznej chemioterapii. Dodatkowo sprzyja zmniejszeniu aktywności czynnika NF-ke i obniżeniu poziomu związków prozapalnych, a dzięk i temu redukuje natężenie stanu zapalnego w organizmie. Wydaje się też, że moduluje poziom GABA, a dzięki temu działa odprężająco i przeciwdepresyjnie.5,7-dihydroxy-2-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran-4-one is a flavonoid found in various medicinal plants, e.g. Baikal skullcap (Scutellaria baicalensis). It is also found in honey, propolis, passion fruit (Passiflora caerulea and Passiflora incarnata), the Oroxylum indicum plant, carrots (Daucus carota), chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla), many fruits, and in mushrooms such as the Pleurotus Dobrzeatus mushroom. It is obtained from various plants, such as blue passion flower (Passiflora caerulea). In vitro studies have shown that it acts as an aromatase inhibitor and can also stimulate steroidogenic processes. It is also credited with the ability to increase the sensitivity of Leydig cells to cAMP stimulation, which may translate into enhanced testosterone synthesis. It also has a wide range of health-promoting properties. It has anti-cancer potential and can increase the effectiveness of classic chemotherapy. Additionally, it helps reduce the activity of the NF-ke factor and lower the level of pro-inflammatory compounds, and thus reduces the intensity of inflammation in the body. It also seems to modulate GABA levels, and thus has a relaxing and antidepressant effect.
W suplementach najczęściej umieszcza się 5,7-dihydroxy-2-fenylo-4H-1-benzopiran-4-on ekstrahowany z kwiatów passiflory. Zyskał on miano skutecznego, naturalnego inhibitora aromatazy. Ze względu na swoje właściwości jest często dodawany do formuł nastawionych na ograniczanie aktywności estrogenów oraz do preparatów ukierunkowanych na zwiększenie poziomu testosteronu.Supplements most often contain 5,7-dihydroxy-2-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran-4-one extracted from passionflower flowers. It has gained the reputation of an effective, natural aromatase inhibitor. Due to its properties, it is often added to formulas aimed at limiting estrogen activity and to preparations aimed at increasing testosterone levels.
Cienie podoczodołowe są spowodowane nagromadzeniem hemoglobiny i jej zabarwienia produktami degradacji (biliwerdyna, bilirubina i związki żelaza) w skórze właściwej i naskórku. 5,7-dihydroxy-2-fenylo-4H-1-benzopiran-4-on stymuluje enzym UGT1A1, prowadzący do usunięcia bilirubiny. N-hydroksysukcynimid sprawia, że związki żelaza są rozpuszczane i eliminowane.Infraorbital dark circles are caused by the accumulation of hemoglobin and its color by degradation products (biliverdin, bilirubin and iron compounds) in the dermis and epidermis. 5,7-dihydroxy-2-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran-4-one stimulates the UGT1A1 enzyme, leading to the removal of bilirubin. N-hydroxysuccinimide causes iron compounds to be dissolved and eliminated.
Właściwości kosmetyczne 5,7-dihydroxy-2-fenylo-4H-1-benzopiran-4-on zostały ujawnione w opisach patentowych: FR 2 869 229, FR 2 975 904. Jest on głównym składnikiem aktywnym surowca kosmetycznego o nazwie HALOXYL firmy SEDERMA. Preparat HALOXYL jest mieszaniną wody, gliceryny, kopolimeru metakrylanu i akrylanu, kwasu bursztynowego, 5,7-dihydroxy-2-fenylo-4H-1-benzopiran-4-on, tripeptydu-1 kwasu palmitynowego i terapeptydu-7 kwasu palmitynowego.The cosmetic properties of 5,7-dihydroxy-2-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran-4-one have been disclosed in the patent descriptions: FR 2 869 229, FR 2 975 904. It is the main active ingredient of the cosmetic raw material called HALOXYL by SEDERMA. HALOXYL is a mixture of water, glycerin, methacrylate and acrylate copolymer, succinic acid, 5,7-dihydroxy-2-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran-4-one, palmitic acid tripeptide-1 and palmitic acid therapeptide-7.
Albicja jedwabista (Albizia julibrissin) jest rośliną o zastosowaniu w medycynie i kosmetyce. Kora tej rośliny jest bogata w składniki z rodzaju saponin, terpenów, alkaloidów i flawonoidów. Głównymi składnikami bioaktywnymi są saponiny triterpenoidowe np. julibrozyd Ji ester 28-O-{β-D-glukopiranozylo-(1^3)-[a-arabinofuranozylo-(1^4)]-a-L-ramnopiranozylo-(1^2)}-e-D-glukopiranozylowy kwasu 3-O-[e-D-ksylopiranozylo-(1^-2)-a-L-arabinopyranosyl-(1^6)-e-D-glukopiranozylo]-21- O-{(6S)-2-trans-2hydroksy-metylo-6-metylo-6-O-[4-O-((6S)-2-trans-2,6-dimetylo-6-O-(6-deoksy-e-D-glukopiranozylo)-2,7-oktadienoilo)-6-deoksy-e-D-glukopiranozylo]-2,7-oktadienoilo}-akacynowego (Libin Ma, Guangzhong Tu, Siping Chen, Ruyi Zhang, Luhua Lai, Xiaojie Xu, Youqi Tang, Carbohydrate Research, 281, 1996, 35-46).Silky albizia (Albizia julibrissin) is a plant used in medicine and cosmetics. The bark of this plant is rich in ingredients such as saponins, terpenes, alkaloids and flavonoids. The main bioactive ingredients are triterpenoid saponins, e.g. -e-D-glucopyranosyl acid 3-O-[e-D-xylopyranosyl-(1^-2)-a-L-arabinopyranosyl-(1^6)-e-D-glucopyranosyl]-21- O-{(6S)-2-trans-2hydroxy -methyl-6-methyl-6-O-[4-O-((6S)-2-trans-2,6-dimethyl-6-O-(6-deoxy-e-D-glucopyranosyl)-2,7-octadienoyl )-6-deoxy-e-D-glucopyranosyl]-2,7-octadienoyl}-acacin acid (Libin Ma, Guangzhong Tu, Siping Chen, Ruyi Zhang, Luhua Lai, Xiaojie Xu, Youqi Tang, Carbohydrate Research, 281, 1996, 35- 46).
Darutozyd jest głównym składnikiem aktywnym rośliny boskie ziele (Sigesbeckia orientalis), małego krzewu pochodzącego z Indii i szeroko rozpowszechnionego w tropikalnych i umiarkowanych częściach świata. Roślina jest używana w tradycyjnej medycynie do leczenia chorób skóry i gojenia ran. Badania wykazały, że roślina ta ma działanie przeciwzapalne, przeciwalergiczne i gojące rany. Badanie kliniczne wykazało, że darutozyd może łagodzić zapalenie poprzez hamowanie mediatorów stanu zapalnego poprzez hamowanie szlaków zależnych od MAPK i NF-kB, co znane jest z publikacji Zhangfeng Zhong, Qianru Zhang, Hongxun Tao, Wei Sang, Liao Cui, Wenan Qiang, Wai San Cheang, Yuanjia Hu, Hua Yu, Yitao Wang, Chinese Medicine, 14, 35, 2019.Darutoside is the main active ingredient of the divine herb plant (Sigesbeckia orientalis), a small shrub native to India and widely distributed in tropical and temperate parts of the world. The plant is used in traditional medicine to treat skin diseases and heal wounds. Studies have shown that this plant has anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic and wound-healing properties. A clinical study has shown that darutoside can alleviate inflammation by inhibiting inflammatory mediators by inhibiting MAPK and NF-kB-dependent pathways, as reported by Zhangfeng Zhong, Qianru Zhang, Hongxun Tao, Wei Sang, Liao Cui, Wenan Qiang, Wai San Cheang, Yuanjia Hu, Hua Yu, Yitao Wang, Chinese Medicine, 14, 35, 2019.
Surowiec kosmetyczny o nazwie BEAUTIFEYE firmy SEDERMA zawiera ekstrakt z albicji jedwabistej i darutozyd. Skład wg INCI: gliceryna, ekstrakt z kory albicji jedwabistej, darutozyd.The cosmetic raw material called BEAUTIFEYE by SEDERMA contains albicia silk extract and darutoside. Composition according to INCI: glycerin, silky albicia bark extract, darutoside.
Olej z owoców simondsji kalifornijskiej (Simmondsia chinensis) - olej jojoba, to płynny wosk o wysokiej zawartości erukanu oleilu. Olej wykazuje wysoką stabilność oksydacyjną i odporność na degradację. Olej jojoba jest szeroko stosowany w produktach kosmetycznych, takich jak filtry pr zeciwsłoneczne i nawilżające. Wykazano, że jest skuteczny w zwiększaniu wchłaniania leków miejscowych. Wysoka zawartość estrów wosku sprawia, że olej jojoba działa korzystnie w przypadku dermatoz ze zmienioną barierą skórną, takich jak łojotokowe zapalenie skóry, wypryskowe zapalePL 244324 B1 nie skóry, atopowe zapalenie skóry i trądzik. Olej jojoba ma również udowodnione działanie przeciwzapalne i może być stosowany w różnych chorobach skóry, w tym w infekcjach skóry, starzeniu się skóry, co znane jest z publikacji Tzu-Kai Lin, Lily Zhong, Juan Luis Santiago, Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2018, 19, 70. Syntetycznym zamiennikiem oleju jojoba jest surowiec o nazwie Tego Soft OER firmy EVONIC. Składnik ten może być stosowany jako zamiennik oleju jojoba. Skład Tego Soft OER wg INCI: erukan oleilu.Californian simondsia fruit oil (Simmondsia chinensis) - jojoba oil, is a liquid wax with a high content of oleyl erucate. The oil has high oxidative stability and resistance to degradation. Jojoba oil is widely used in cosmetic products such as sunscreens and moisturizers. It has been shown to be effective in increasing the absorption of topical medications. The high content of wax esters makes jojoba oil beneficial for dermatoses with an altered skin barrier, such as seborrheic dermatitis, eczematous dermatitis, atopic dermatitis and acne. Jojoba oil also has proven anti-inflammatory effects and can be used in various skin diseases, including skin infections and skin aging, as known from the publications of Tzu-Kai Lin, Lily Zhong, Juan Luis Santiago, Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2018, 19, 70. A synthetic substitute for jojoba oil is a raw material called Teraz Soft OER by EVONIC. This ingredient can be used as a replacement for jojoba oil. Composition of Ten Soft OER according to INCI: oleyl erucan.
Okolice oczu są bardzo wrażliwe na rodzaj składników aktywnych stosowanych w preparatach pielęgnacyjnych. Nadal poszukuje się skutecznych preparatów zmniejszających obrzęk i zasinienie wokół oczu.The eye area is very sensitive to the type of active ingredients used in care products. Effective preparations that reduce swelling and bruising around the eyes are still being sought.
Nieoczekiwanie okazało się, że krem pod oczy według wynalazku wykazuje silne działanie zmniejszające obrzęki i zasinienie wokół oczu i wykazuje efekt synergistyczny w stosunku do jego pojedynczych składników.Surprisingly, it turned out that the eye cream according to the invention has a strong effect on reducing swelling and bruising around the eyes and has a synergistic effect in relation to its individual ingredients.
Krem składa się z następujących składników w ilościach wyrażonych w % wagowych:The cream consists of the following ingredients in amounts expressed in % by weight:
i) - Faza A trigliceryd kaprylowo-kaprynowy 1,0-10,0 olej z orzechów makadamia 1,0-10,0 olej jojoba lub erukan oleilu 1,0-10,0 distearynian poliglicerolu-3 metyloglukozy 1,0-5,0 alkohol cetearylowy 1,0-5,0 stearynian glicerolu samoemulgujący 1,0-5,0 octan tokoferylu 0,1-2,0 dimetikon (olej silikonowy) 0,5-5,0 izododekan 1,0-5,0 krzyżowy polimer dimetikonu konserwant 0,2-3,0 ii) - Faza Bi) - Phase A caprylic-capric triglyceride 1.0-10.0 macadamia nut oil 1.0-10.0 jojoba oil or oleyl erucan 1.0-10.0 polyglycerol-3 methylglucose distearate 1.0-5, 0 cetearyl alcohol 1.0-5.0 glycerol stearate self-emulsifying 1.0-5.0 tocopheryl acetate 0.1-2.0 dimethicone (silicone oil) 0.5-5.0 isododecane 1.0-5.0 cross dimethicone polymer preservative 0.2-3.0 ii) - Phase B
70% roztwór pantenlu w wodzie 0,1-5,0 gliceryna 2-10 woda do 100,00 iii) - Faza C 0,1-5,0 woda 61%, stearynian etyloheksylowy 27%, krzyżowy polimer hialuronianu sodu 4%, diizostearynian/polihydroksystearynian/sebacynian poliglycerolu-4 4%, izostearynian sodu 4% iv) - Faza D 0,1-3,0 gliceryna 15% kopolimer metakrylanu i akrylanu 4%, N-hydroksysukcynimid 0,2%,70% solution of pantenl in water 0.1-5.0 glycerin 2-10 water up to 100.00 iii) - Phase C 0.1-5.0 water 61%, ethylhexyl stearate 27%, sodium hyaluronate cross polymer 4%, diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/polyglycerol-4 sebacate 4%, sodium isostearate 4% iv) - Phase D 0.1-3.0 glycerin 15% methacrylate and acrylate copolymer 4%, N-hydroxysuccinimide 0.2%,
5,7-dihydroxy-2-fenylo-4H-1-benzopiran-4-on 0,01%, tripeptyd-1 kwasu palmitynowego 0,01%, terapeptyd-7 kwasu palmitynowego 0,005% woda do 100%5,7-dihydroxy-2-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran-4-one 0.01%, palmitic acid tripeptide-1 0.01%, palmitic acid therapeptide-7 0.005% water to 100%
v) - Faza E ekstrakt glicerynowy z kory albicji jedwabistej darutozyd regulator pHv) - Phase E, glycerin extract from the bark of albicia silky, darutoside, pH regulator
0,1-3,00.1-3.0
0,00075-0,0015 do pH 6,50.00075-0.0015 to pH 6.5
Krem może zawierać inne substancje pozytywnie wpływające na regenerację i pielęgnację skóry. Zawartość każdej z powyższych substancji standardowo wynosi 0,0001 do 5% wagowych, korzystnie nie więcej niż 1% wagowych w przeliczeniu na całkowitą masę kompozycji kosmetycznej.The cream may contain other substances that have a positive effect on skin regeneration and care. The content of each of the above substances is typically 0.0001 to 5% by weight, preferably not more than 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Korzystnie krem zawiera dodatkowo substancje pomocnicze. Rodzaj, ilość i charakter stosowanych substancji pomocniczych.Preferably, the cream additionally contains auxiliary substances. Type, quantity and nature of excipients used.
PL 244324 Β1PL 244324 Β1
Jako przykładowe emolienty stosuje się oleje roślinne, estry kwasów tłuszczowych i wyższych alkoholi tłuszczowych, estry wyższych kwasów tłuszczowych i krótkołańcuchowych alkoholi.Examples of emollients include vegetable oils, esters of fatty acids and higher fatty alcohols, esters of higher fatty acids and short-chain alcohols.
Jako przykładowe humektanty stosuje się glicerynę, 1,3-propanodiol, glikol butylenowy, glikol pentylenowy, mocznik, hydroksyetylomocznik.Examples of humectants include glycerin, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, urea, and hydroxyethyl urea.
Jako przykładowe emulgatory stosuje się samoemulgujący stearynian glicerolu, polietoksylowane alkohole tłuszczowe estry pochodnych glukozy i wyższych kwasów tłuszczowych, emulgatory kationowe Jako substancje konsystencjotwórcze można zastosować wosk pszczeli, wyższe alkohole tłuszczowe takie jak alkohol cetylowy, stearylowy lub ich mieszaniny.Examples of emulsifiers include self-emulsifying glycerol stearate, polyethoxylated fatty alcohol esters of glucose derivatives and higher fatty acids, cationic emulsifiers. Beeswax, higher fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or their mixtures can be used as consistency-forming substances.
Krem według wynalazku wytwarza się sposobami znanymi w stanie techniki. Bardziej szczegółowy opis surowców i typowych składników bazy kosmetycznej oraz zasady sporządzania preparatów zawierają standardowe podręczniki technologii kosmetycznej. Przykładowo można tu wymienić Flick E.W., Cosmetics ant Toiletry Formulations, William Andrew Publishing, 2001.The cream according to the invention is prepared by methods known in the art. A more detailed description of raw materials and typical ingredients of the cosmetic base, as well as the principles of preparation of preparations, can be found in standard cosmetic technology textbooks. Examples include Flick E.W., Cosmetics ant Toiletry Formulations, William Andrew Publishing, 2001.
Przykład 1Example 1
Nazwy składników podano jako nazwy INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetics Ingredients) i nazwy handlowe.Ingredient names are given as INCI names (International Nomenclature of Cosmetics Ingredients) and trade names.
Składy surowców złożonych, dostępnych handlowo:Compositions of complex raw materials, commercially available:
PL 244324 Β1PL 244324 Β1
Przykład 2Example 2
Wytworzono krem o składzieA cream with the composition was produced
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Fazę A i B ogrzewa się w osobnych naczyniach do temperatury 75°C. Fazę A dodaje się do Fazy B i homogenizuje się przez 1 minutę przy obrotach homogenizatora 10000 RPM. Następnie uzyskaną emulsję chłodzi się przy ciągłym mieszaniu za pomocą mieszadła mechanicznego do temperatury poniżej 40°C. Do uzyskanej mieszaniny dodaje się kolejno Fazę C, D i E. Uzyskany krem chłodzi się poniżej 25°C przy ciągłym mieszaniu za pomocą mieszadła mechanicznego. Jeżeli jest taka konieczność reguluje się pH kremu za pomocą 20% roztworu NaOH do pH w granicach 6,3-6,5.Phase A and B are heated in separate vessels to 75°C. Phase A is added to Phase B and homogenized for 1 minute at the homogenizer speed of 10,000 RPM. The obtained emulsion is then cooled with constant stirring using a mechanical stirrer to a temperature below 40°C. Phase C, D and E are added to the obtained mixture successively. The obtained cream is cooled below 25°C with constant stirring using a mechanical mixer. If necessary, the pH of the cream is adjusted with a 20% NaOH solution to a pH of 6.3-6.5.
Przykład 3Example 3
Porównanie wpływu kremu pod oczy o/w zawierającego 5,7-dihydroxy-2-fenylo-4H-1 -benzopiran-4-on, ekstrakt z albicji jedwabistej, darutozyd i olej jojoba - ocena zmniejszenia obrzęków i zasinienia wokół oczu.Comparison of the effect of o/w eye cream containing 5,7-dihydroxy-2-phenyl-4H-1 -benzopyran-4-one, silky albicia extract, darutoside and jojoba oil - assessment of the reduction of swelling and bruising around the eyes.
Dobór probantów - ochotników do badań:Selection of probands - volunteers for research:
- Dobór probantów - ochotników prowadzony został przez lekarza dermatologa zgodnie z Deklaracją Helsińską z 1964 r. (z późniejszymi uzupełnieniami), przepisami polskimi, UE, wytycznymi Cosmetics Europę z zastosowaniem kryteriów włączeń i wyłączeń.- The selection of volunteer probands was carried out by a dermatologist in accordance with the Helsinki Declaration of 1964 (with subsequent amendments), Polish and EU regulations, Cosmetics Europa guidelines, using inclusion and exclusion criteria.
W badaniu brało udział 50 osób, które spełniają wymagania dotyczące włączenia do badań oraz podpisały świadomą zgodę uczestnictwa w badaniu. Skóra w miejscu jest prawidłowa, bez zmian chorobowych. Badanych informuje się, by w tym czasie nie stosowali żadnych leków antyhistaminowych lub środków farmakologicznych, mogących mieć wpływ na wynik badania.The study involved 50 people who met the requirements for inclusion in the study and signed an informed consent to participate in the study. The skin at the site is normal, with no lesions. Subjects are informed not to use any antihistamines or pharmacological agents during this time that may affect the test results.
Każda z pięciu grup uczestników liczyła po 10 osób i stosowała kompozycję o składzie, jak podano poniżej dla każdej z grup. Po umyciu skóry twarzy standardowym płynem myjącym nakładano krem. Procedurę wykonywano dwa razy dziennie przez miesiąc. W czasie badania nie stosowano innych kosmetyków do pielęgnacji twarzy.Each of the five groups of participants consisted of 10 people and used a composition as listed below for each group. After washing the facial skin with a standard cleansing fluid, the cream was applied. The procedure was performed twice daily for a month. No other facial care cosmetics were used during the study.
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Ocena zmniejszenia obrzękówAssessment of swelling reduction
Wpływ na zmniejszenie obrzęków pod oczami wyznaczono za pomocą aparatu VISIA, oceniając procentowe zmniejszenie pola powierzchni skóry zajętej obrzękiem.The effect on reducing swelling under the eyes was determined using the VISIA device, assessing the percentage reduction in the area of the skin affected by swelling.
Ocena zmniejszenia zasinienia wokół oczuAssessment of the reduction of bruising around the eyes
Wpływ na zmniejszenie zasinienia pod oczami wyznaczono za pomocą aparatu VISIA, oceniając procentowe zmniejszenie pola powierzchni skóry zajętej zasinieniem.The effect on reducing bruising under the eyes was determined using the VISIA device, assessing the percentage reduction in the area of the skin affected by the bruising.
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