MXPA01008610A - Protection of keratinous fibers using ceramides and/or glycoceramides. - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition for the protection of keratinous fibers containing at least one compound chosen from ceramides and glycoceramides, at least one cationic polymer, and at least one amphoteric polymer; to a process and kit for protecting keratinous fibers from damage caused by chemical treatment by applying, prior to chemical treatment, to the keratinous fibers a leave-in composition comprising at least one compound chosen from ceramides and glycoceramides.

Description

< ^ J PROTECTION OF KERATINUM FIBERS USING CERAMID AND / OR GLICOCERAMIDES The present invention relates to a composition for the protection of keratinous fibers containing at least one compound selected from ceramides and glycoceramides, at least one cationic polymer and at least one amphoteric polymer. The invention also relates to a process for the 10 protection of keratinous fibers using a composition that is left after application and that contains at least one compound selected from ceramides and glycoceramides. It is well known that keratinous fibers, in In particular, human hair is damaged, that is, it becomes sensitive or weakened, to varying degrees by the action of atmospheric agents and by the action of various hair chemical treatments such as, for example, dyeing, discoloration, he 20 permanent waving or laughing / straightening, especially by the repeated use of these chemical treatments over time. The hair then becomes difficult to handle and stylize and also becomes rough to the touch. ii? To protect hair during chemical treatment, it is known to include various protective compounds in chemical treatment compositions. Ceramides are known as hair protective agents, but may have the disadvantage that they are sometimes unstable in alkaline formulations. This can be a problem due to chemical treatments for the hair, such as dyeing, discoloration, permanent waving, or softening / straightening, in general they are alkaline. The instability can cause particular difficulties in shelf life and storage for chemical treatment compositions containing ceramide-protecting agents. In this way, it would be desirable to use ceramides as hair-protecting agents without compromising the stability of the chemical treatment formulations with which they are used. In addition to protection, it is also desirable to provide hair with adequate styling, appearance and feel properties after chemical treatment. Cationic polymers have been used to facilitate unraveling and improve softness and feel ^, I-, M ii M ** ^ t *? * JßíÍß * U ** ^ * ÍÉ ^^ * * t of the hair, and also to provide protection to the hair fibers. However, cationic polymers can have several disadvantages when used alone, such as, for example, a possible tendency to make the hair appear straight and oily, in particular when other chemical treatments are superimposed on the hair. Amphoteric polymers have also been used, although similarly they fail to provide sufficient softness and unraveling when used in the hair itself. In this way, there is a need for stable compositions that protect the hair from damage caused by chemical treatment and also allow the hair to maintain its excellent styling, sensation and appearance properties. The present inventors have surprisingly found that applying a composition containing at least one compound selected from ceramides and glycoceramides to the keratinous fibers before chemical treatment, ie, as a pretreatment composition, can improve the protection of the fibers of the ravages of chemical treatments. In other words, problems of instability can be avoided without * i * - include the at least one compound selected from ceramides and glycoceramides in the composition for treatment itself. In one embodiment of the invention, the pretreatment composition is left on the keratinous fibers, i.e., without rinsing the fibers prior to chemical treatment. The keratinous fibers can be hair, in particular human hair. The inventors have also discovered that the combination of at least one compound selected from ceramides and glycoceramides, at least one cationic polymer and at least one amphoteric polymer forms a composition which can, in certain embodiments of the invention, provide superior protection, feel and a healthy overall appearance to the keratinous fibers subjected to chemical treatment. Accordingly, an object of the present invention is a composition for the protection of keratinous fibers, comprising at least one compound selected from ceramides and glycoceramides, at least one cationic polymer and at least one amphoteric polymer. Another object of the present invention is a process for protecting the keratinous fibers by applying thereto a non-rinsing composition comprising at least one compound selected from ceramides and glycoceramides and then applying a chemical treatment such as, for example, a composition for dyeing, a composition for bleaching, a composition for softening or a composition for permanent waving. The composition may further comprise at least one polymer selected from at least one cationic polymer and at least one amphoteric polymer. Still another object of the present invention is a multi-compartment case for the chemical treatment of keratinous fibers having at least two separate compartments, wherein a first compartment contains a A composition comprising at least one compound selected from ceramides and glycoceramides, and a second compartment containing a composition for the chemical treatment of the fibers, for example, dyeing, discoloration, permanent waving, or 20 relaxation. The first compartment can also contain at least one polymer selected from at least one cationic polymer and at least one amphoteric polymer.

Other objects of the invention will become apparent upon reading the detailed description and the subsequent examples.

Ceramides and glycoceramides The ceramide and / or glycoceramide compounds that can be used in the inventive composition can be selected from natural and synthetic ceramides, natural and synthetic glycoceramides, natural and synthetic pseudoceramides, and natural and synthetic neoceramides. The representative natural or synthetic ceramide or glycoceramide compounds that can be used in accordance with the present invention include those of the following formula (I): in which: R? is selected from: saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched C5-C50 hydrocarbon radicals, wherein the hydrocarbon radicals can be substituted with at least a hydroxyl group, at least one hydroxyl group is optionally esterified with acid RgCOOH wherein Re is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched C? -C35 hydrocarbon radicals which may be monohydroxy or polyhydric and furthermore wherein the hydrocarbon radicals of R6 are mono- or polyhydroxylated, the hydroxyl groups can be esterified with a compound selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched C? -C35 fatty acids which can be monohydroxy or polyhydric, radicals -R "- (NR-CO) -R ' wherein R is selected from a hydrogen atom and mono- and polyhydroxylated C?-C20 hidrocar hydrocarbon radicals, eg, mono-hydroxylated, and R 'and R "are selected from hydrocarbon radicals in which the sum of the carbon atoms vary from 9 to 30, R 'is a divalent radical, and radicals -R7-0-CO- (CH2) a, wherein R7 is selected from CJ-CJ hydrocarbon radicals and is a variable integer from 1 to 12; R2 is selected from a hydrogen atom and radicals (glycosyl), (galact osyl) c, sulfo-galactosyl, phosphoryl ilamine and phos for ilet ammonium, where b is an integer ranging from 1 to A and c is a number whole that varies from 1 to 8; i. < tl - i i L. ff '• gMMmt? »r? M1rp ?? r • r' i 1 ^^ t ^ yM || ÉiM || g | i | ilÍB || hÉti ^^ R3 is selected from a hydrogen atom and hydrocarbon radicals of C? -C33 hydroxylated and non-hydroxylated, saturated and unsaturated, it being possible for the hydroxylated hydrocarbon radicals to be esterified with a selected acid of inorganic acids and organic acids of the formula R6COOH, where Re was defined above, also being possible for Hydroxylated hydrocarbon radicals which are etherified with a radical selected from radicals (glycosyl) b / (galactosyl) c, sulfogalactosyl, phosphorylethylamine and phosphorylethylammonium, where b and c are as defined above, and it is also possible for R3 to be substituted with at least one C? -C alkyl radical?; In one embodiment, R3 is selected from C5-C26 α-hydroxyalkyl radicals wherein the hydroxyl group may optionally be esterified with a C6- C30 α-hydroxy acid. R4 is selected from a hydrogen atom, methyl radicals, ethyl radicals, optionally linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated hydroxylated C-3-C50 hydrocarbon radicals and -CH2- CHOH-CH2-0-R8 radicals in which Rg is selected from C10-C26 hydrocarbon radicals and radicals -R7-0-CO- (CH2) a, R is selects hydrocarbon radicals of C? -C20 and a is an integer ranging from 1 to 12; R5 is selected from a hydrogen atom and C? -C3 or hydrocarbon radicals mono and Optionally polyhydroxylated, linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, it being possible for the hydroxyl radicals to be etherified with a radical selected from radicals (glycosyl), (galactosyl) c, sulfogalactosyl, phosphoryl-ilamine and 0-phosphoryl-amyl ammonium, wherein b and c were previously defined; with the proviso that when R3 and R5 are a hydrogen atom or when R3 is a hydrogen atom and R5 is a methyl radical, then R is not a hydrogen atom or a methyl or ethyl radical. Among the compounds of formula (I) above, one of ordinary skill in the art can select ceramides and / or glycoceramides whose structures are as described by Do ning, Journal of Lipid Research, Vol. 35 (1994), pages 2060 -2068, or those described in the French patent application FR-2, 673, 179, and the expositions thereof are incorporated by reference. The structures of these ceramides and / or glycoceramides can be selected from the seven ceramide structures shown below: What is the difference between the number and the size of the population? m . ...,. ... .TO.... . .1 _ i. * Jta ^ i -... ^. ^ I ^, ^^. ^^^^^^^^. HJMtartMtaßg MÉMÉÉ ^ The ceramide and / or glycoceramide compounds according to the invention can be selected from the compounds of the formula (I) in which Ri is selected from alkyl, saturated and unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated, acid derivatives Fatty C? -C22; R2 is a hydrogen atom; and R3 is selected from linear, saturated, optionally hydroxylated Cn-Cn radicals, for example, C? 3-C? 5 radicals. These compounds are, for example: -N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, -N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, -N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, -N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, -N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, -N-2-hydroxy-pallamtyldihydrosphingosine, -N-stearoyl-phytosphingosine, -N-palmitamidohexadecandiol, - 2-oleamido-l, 3-octadecandiol, and mixtures of these compounds. In another embodiment, the ceramide can be selected from 2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol (its name CTFA), sold, for example, as MEXANYL GZ by Chimex, and N-2-hydroxypalymii or dihydroes inagos *. i, * «- i. ,. .. * ^. Y, . v- ~. . . - - Y . * *. . ^ A.i.L.k. * te¿ (CTFA name hydroxipalmitoilsfinganina), sold, for example, as well as MEXANYL GAA by Chimex. At least one compound selected from ceramides and glycoceramides in general is present in the inventive composition in an amount effective to provide improved protection to the keratinous fibers. In one embodiment, at least one compound selected from ceramides and glycoceramides in general is present in an amount ranging from about 0.0005 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In another embodiment, at least one compound selected from ceramides and glycoceramides in general is present in the inventive composition in an amount ranging from about 0.001 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Cationic Polymers For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cationic polymer" denotes any polymer that contains cationic groups and / or groups that may be ionized in cationic groups. The cationic polymers, which can be used according to the present invention, can be selected from, for example, those described in European patent applications EP-A-337354 and EP-A-557203 and in French patents Nos. 2,270,846, 2,383,6601, 2,598,611, 2,470,596 and 2,519,863. The cationic polymers that will be used in the present inventive composition can be selected from those containing monomer units comprising amine groups selected from primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine groups, wherein any amine groups can be part of the main polymer chain or they can carry a lateral substituent attached directly thereto. The cationic polymers used in general can have a number average molecular mass ranging from about 500 to 5,000,000, or, in another embodiment, ranging from about 1,000 to 3,000,000. Among the cationic polymers that can be used in the inventive composition are polymers such as, for example, polyamine, polyamino amide and polynuclear ammonium polymers. These types of polymers are described, for example, in French patents Nos. 2,505,348 or 2,542,997. These polymers can The following are included in the following: polymers of families (1) to (14) below: (1) homopolymers and copolymers derived from at least one selected monomer of acrylic esters and methacrylics and amides and / or comprising at least one of the units of the following formulas (II), (III), (IV) or (V): < ¡L ** ^? A * ¿^ ** I ^ V ** ¿tf ^^^^ íh * a ^ ÉMM «lÉÉaa? TfÉtMiAaÉÉMÍÍÍÍÍIMMÍIIÉBÍ MÍt in which: A, which can be identical or different, is selected of linear and branched alkyl groups of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, for example 2 or 3 carbon atoms. The linear and branched alkyl groups can, for example, be selected from hydroxyalkyl groups having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R9 and RiO, which may be identical or different, are selected from hydrogen and alkyl groups containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl or ethyl; Rn, which may be identical or different, is selected from a hydrogen atom and a methyl radical; R12, R13 and RH, which may be identical or different, are selected from alkyl groups containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and a benzyl radical; X "is an anion derived from acids selected from inorganic and organic acids, such as, for example, a methosulfate anion, or a haiogenide, such as, for example, chloride or bromide.Polymers of the family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from . -ck. fc. ?? comonomers which can be selected from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and substituted methacrylamides at the nitrogen atom with lower alkyls (C-5 C), acrylic and methacrylic acids and esters of these acids, vinylactams, such as, for example, vinylpyrrolidone and vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters. Thus, among these polymers of the family (1) which can be mentioned are: - copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl haiogenide, such as, for example, those sold with name 15 HERCOFLOC by Hercules. copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyl oxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described, for example, in the patent application EP-A-080976, and sold, for example, under the name BINA QUAT P 100 20 by Ciba Geigy. the copolymer of acrylamide and methacrylate of methacryloyloxyethyl 1-t rimet ammonium, such as, for example, those sold by Hercules under the name RETEN. vinylpyrrolidone / dialkyl quaternized or non-quaternized 1-aminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as, for example, those sold by ISP under the name GAFQUA T, eg EMPL, GAFQUAT 734 or GAFQUAT 755, or with the product names COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937. These polymers are described in detail in French patents Nos. 2,077,143 and 2,393,573. methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone dimethylaminoethyl terpolymers, such as, for example, those sold by ISP under the name GAFFIX VC 713. vinylpyrrolidone / methacryl-amidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, sold, for example, by ISP under the name STYLEZE CC 10, and copolymers vini lpyrrolidone / quaternized dimethylamino-propylmethacrylamide, such as, for example, those sold by ISP under the name GAFQUA T HS 100. (2) The cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, described in French patent No. 11492 , 597, and sold, for example, by Union Carbide with denominations "JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M, or "LR" LR 400 LR 30M) These polymers are also defined in the % ü ... and..yy..y,. ? and the? TO**.-?.? *** y > . . This is a CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose which has been reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group. (3) Cationic cellulose derivatives such as, for example, cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in U.S. Patent No. 4,131,576, such as, for example, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for example Hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, in particular, with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products that correspond to this definition 15 include CELQUAT L 200 and CELQUAT H 100, sold by National Starch. (4) The cationic polysaccharides described more particularly in U.S. Patent Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, such as For example, guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. Guar gums modified with a salt (eg, chloride, 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium) are used, for example. These products are sold, for example, by Meyhall with the ,. --S ± rU -Ayj ,, -.!.,, ..!.,. .v > .) ".., ii,? I ^ j | ^. | ^? ^^ - j ^^^^^^ M ^^ MMJÍ« MÉBMÉII «MMM ^^ MÉÁÉ ^ JÍÍÉ name" JAGUAR ", for ex empl or, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 and JAGUAR C162. (5) Polymers comprising piperazinyl and divalent alkylene units or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers. These polymers are described, in particular, in French patents Nos. 2,162,025 and 2, 280, 361. (6) Water-soluble polyamino amides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine. These polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bi-unsaturated derivative, a bi-halohydride, a bis-a zetidinium, a bis-haloacidiamine, a bis haiogenide. -alkyl or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound that is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacydiamine, a bis-alkyl haiogenide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis- unsaturated The crosslinking agent is used in proportions ranging from about 0.025 to 0.35 moles per amine group of the polyamino amide. These polyamino amides can be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized. These polymers are described, in particular, in French patents Nos. 2,252,840 and 2,368,508. (7) The polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention can be made, for example, of adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and can be, for example, methyl, ethyl or propyl. These polymers are described in particular in French Patent No. 1,583,363. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name CARTARETINE F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz. (8) Polymers obtained by the reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine containing two groups . A, and .yy »,. l * A *.?. A ... ~.?. The primary amine and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having 3 to 8 carbon atoms. The molar ratio of the polyalkylene polyamine to the dicarboxylic acid ranges from about 0.8: 1 to 1.4: 1. The resulting polyamino amide is reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyamino amide ranging from about 0.5: 1 to 1.8: 1. These polymers are described in particular in U.S. Patent Nos. 3,227,615 and 2,961,347 and are sold, for example, by Hercules, Inc. under the name HERCOSETT 57 or with the name PD 170 or DELSETTE 101 in the case of the copolymer of Adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine. (9) Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or dialkyl diallylammonium, such as, for example, homopolymers or copolymers containing, as the main constituent of the chain, the units corresponding to formula (VI) or (VII): L .. i A J .. ». i.tL Í- > i. .to. Jka, -. ..- .L ÜMÉHAÉÉUUU in which: d and e are equal to 0 or 1. the sum d + e is equal to 1; Ri7 is selected from a hydrogen atom and a methyl radical; R15 and i ß r which may be identical or different, are selected from unsubstituted C1-C22 alkyl groups, C1-C5 hydroxyalkyl groups and C? -C amidoalkyl groups, or Ri5 and Rie may form, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as, for example, piperidyl and morpholinyl; X is an anion such as, for example, bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate. These polymers are described in particular in French Patent No. 2,080,759 and in its Addition Certificate No. 2,190,406. Among the polymers defined above, an example is DiMlHHWHii ^ MMMßMMÉTFMHIIM ^ MlHIiliMkiHMÉI i homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride sold as MERQUAT 100 by Calgon (and lower molecular weight homologs) and copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and acrylamide sold under the name MERQUAT 550, also by Calgon. (10) The quaternary diammonium polymer containing repeat units corresponding to formula (VIII): wherein: Ri8 / Ri9í R20 and R2i, which may be identical or different, are selected from aliphatic radicals, 15 alicyclic and arylaliphatic containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and hydroxyalkaliphatic radicals of C? -C4, or alternatively Ris, R19, R20 and R2 ?, together or separately constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles that 20 optionally contain a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or alternatively Ris, R19, R20 and R2 ?, which may be identical or different, are selected from linear alkyl radicals and branched (C? -C6) substituted with at least one substituent selected from nitrile groups; ester groups; acyl groups; amide groups; and groups -CO-O-R22-D and -CO-NH-R22-D groups, wherein R22 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group; Ai and Bi, which may be identical or different, are selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, and which may contain linked to the main chain or interspersed therein at least one selected entity of aromatic rings, oxygen and sulfur atoms, and sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide and ester groups, and X2 ~ is a selected anion of anions derived from acids selected from acids inorganic and organic and haiogenide anions, such as for example, chloride or bromide. Ai, Ris and R20 can form, with the two atoms of nitrogens to which they are attached, a piperazine ring. In addition, if Ai is selected from alkylene and hydroxyalkylene radicals saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched, Bi can also be selected from a group - (CH2) f-CO-E-OC- (CH2) f- "^ J * í f AS.yt Ly * - * - '* .. **. - * - *, .. ....... L, .. ^. ,,.,. ~ Yl Ita ^^ fc ^^ M '- »' * í ^^^ in which: f is an integer that varies from 1 to 100, eg empl o, from 1 to 50, E is selected from: 5 a) a glycol residue of the formula: -OGO-, wherein G is selected from linear and branched hydrocarbon radicals and groups corresponding to one of the following formulas: 10 - (CH2-CH2-0) g-CH2-CH2- - (CH2 -CH (CH3) -0) h-CH2-CH (CH3) - wherein g and h are each an integer ranging from 1 a, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number 15 which varies from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a bis-secondary amine residue such as, for example, a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of the formula: -NH-J-NH-, wherein J is selected from straight and branched hydrocarbon radicals, or alternatively the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-SS-CH2-C- H2-; d) a ureylene group of the formula: -NH-CO-25 NH-.

, .A ^. «A ^ a ^ m. ^ Lfa _A¿jjÍ ,, feJ4 ^ J ^^ | ^ > i, ^. ,, _ ,, .. ^ ..... and ...... ..., and .. ^ .. - ^. ^ ^^^^^ 1 ^^.

These polymers in general can have a numerical average molecular mass ranging from about 1,000 to 100,000. Polymers of this type are described, for example, in French patents Nos. 2,320,330, 2,270,846, 2,316,271, 2,336,434 and 2,413,907 and U.S. Patent Nos. 2,273,780, 2,375,853, 2,388,614, 2,454,547, 3,206,462, 2,261,002, 2,271,378, 3,874,870 , 4,001,432, 3,929,990, 3,966,904, 4,005,193, 4,025,617, 4,025,627, 4,025,653, 4,026,945 and 4,027,020. The polymers that can be used in the inventive composition include those comprising repeat units corresponding to the following formula (IX): wherein: R23, 24, R25 and R26, which may be identical or different, are selected from alkyl and hydroxyalkyl radicals containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; j and k are integers that vary from 2 to 20; and X3 ~ is an anion derived from an acid selected from inorganic and organic acids. These polymers include polyquaternium-3, sold under the name MEXOMERE PAK by Chimex and hexadimethrin chloride, sold as IONENE G or MEXOMERE PO by Chimex. (11) Polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of the formula (X): where: m is an integer that varies from 1 to 6. L is an entity selected from a single bond and groups - (CH2) n-CO- in which n is a selected integer of 4 or 7 and X4 - it's an anion. These polymers can be prepared according to the procedures described in U.S. Patent Nos. 4,157,388, 4,702,906, and . m á ..i ^ ^^^^^ smá 4,719,282 and also in EP-A-122324. Among these, you can mention, for example, the products MIRAPOL A 15 (polyqua ternium-2), MIRAPOL AD1, MIRAPOL AZI and MIRAPOL 175 sold by Rhodia. (12) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl imidazole, such as, for example, those sold by BASF under the names LUVIQUAT FC 905, FC 550, and FC 370. (13) Polyamines such as the product related to the name tallow polyamine of polyethylene glycol (15) in the CTFA dictionary and sold as, for example, POLYQUART H by Henkel. (14) Crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy (C 1 -C) alkylti (C 1 -C) alkylammonium salts, such as, for example, polymers obtained by the homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization is followed by crosslinking with a compound containing olefinic unsaturation, in particular met i lenbi sacrylamide. It is possible more particularly to use a crosslinked polymer of acrylamide chloride / methacryloyloxyethyl-trimethylammonium (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of the copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is sold under the name SALCARE® SC 92 by the company Allied Colloids. It is also possible to use a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyl chloride trimethoxy ammonium containing approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names SALCARE® SC 95 and SALCARE® SC 96 by the company Allied Colloids. Other cationic polymers, which can be used in the context of the invention, are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and epichlorohydrin, polyquaternary ureylenes and chitin derivatives. Among the cationic polymers which can be used according to the invention, for example, the polymers of families (1), (9), (10), (11) and (14) can be used, such as: polymers of the poly (quaternary ammonium) type prepared and described in French Patent No. 2,270,846, comprising units of repetition corresponding to the following formula (XI): and, in one embodiment, those whose weighted average molar mass, determined by gel permeation chromatography, ranges from about 9500 to 9900; the poly (quaternary ammonium) type polymers prepared and described in French Patent No. 2,270,846, which comprises repeat units corresponding to the following formula (XII): and, in one embodiment, those whose weighted average molar mass, determined by gel permeation chromatography, is about 1200.

The cationic polymers of families (10) and (11) may include hexadimethera chloride. polyquaternium-2 and polyquaternium-34. At least one cationic polymer is generally present in the inventive composition in an amount sufficient to provide improved styling for the keratinous fibers, wherein the composition contains at least one compound selected from ceramides and glycoceramides present in an effective amount to provide a protection improved to keratinous fibers. In one embodiment, at least one cationic polymer can be present in the inventive composition in an amount ranging from about 0.01 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In another embodiment, at least one cationic polymer can be present in an amount ranging from about 0.05 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Amphoteric Polymers The amphoteric polymers which can be used according to the present invention can be selected from polymers containing at least one unit K and at least one unit M, wherein the units K and m are randomly distributed in the polymer chain, in the which: K is selected from units derived from monomers containing at least one basic nitrogen atom and m is selected from units derived from acidic monomers containing at least one group selected from carboxylic and sulphonic groups; or K and M, which may be identical or different, may be selected from units derived from monomers selected from zwitterionic monomers of carboxybetaine and sulfobetaine; or K and M, which may be identical or different, may be selected from cationic polymer chains containing at least one amine group selected from primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups carries a selected group of carboxylic and sulphonic groups bonded to the amine by a hydrocarbon radical; or K and M form part of a polymer with a α, β-dicarboxylic unit, in which one of the carboxyl groups has been reacted with a polyamine containing at least one selected group of primary and secondary amine groups.

? HJ¡ yy ik M - .i- - "i -» - fftlTlI f "» '">« »^? H .. ** .. .. .. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ to the definition given above, the following polymers can be selected from: (1) polymers resulting from the copolymerization of (a) at least one monomer derived from a vinyl compound bearing a carboxylic group such as, for example, acrylic acid, methacrylic, maleic acid, α-chloroacrylic acid, with (b) at least one basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom, such as, for example, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylates and acrylates, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylamides and acrylamides These compounds are described in U.S. Patent No. 3,836,537.Also, sodium acrylate / acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer sold as POLYQUART KE 3033 by Henkel Corp. may also be mentioned. It can be a dialkyldiallylammonium salt such as, for example, diethyldiallylammonium chloride. These copolymers include, for example, the copolymer of diallyldimethyl chloride / ammonium / acrylic acid (80/20) sold under the name MERQUAT 280 DRY by the company Calgon Jj ^ j ^ ^ i ^ MMikMá ^ ^ ^^^^^^^^^ ggggjjjjü (CTFA Name: Polyquaternium-22); the dimethyl ildiali lamonium chloride / acrylic acid copolymer (95/5) sold under the name MERQUAT 295 DRY by the Calgon company (CTFA name: Polyquat ernium-22); the copolymer of methacrylamidopropyl chloride, of acrylic acid and / or methyl acrylate, sold under the name MERQUAT 2001 by the company Calgon (Name CTFA: Polyquaternium-47); and the terpolymer of acrylamide / dimethyldiallylammonium chloride / acrylic acid sold under the name MERQUAT PLUS 3330 DRY by the Calgon Company (Name CTFA: Polyquaternium-39). In one embodiment, the copolymer is a copolymer of diallyl chloride and ammonium chloride / acrylic acid. (2) polymers containing units derived from: a) at least one monomer selected from acrylamides and substituted methacrylamides at the nitrogen atom with an alkyl radical, b) at least one acid comonomer containing at least one reactive carboxylic group, and c) at least one basic comonomer, such as, for example, esters, containing primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents, of acrylic and methacrylic acids and the quaternization product of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate. The N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides are groups in which the alkyl radicals contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms, for example, N-ethylalkyl amide, N-tert-butylarylamide, N- t er-oct i lacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, N-dodecyl acrylamide the corresponding methacrylamides. Acid comonomers can be selected from comonomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid and fumaric acid, and C1 to C4 alkyl monoesters of at least one maleic acid, fumaric acid, maleic anhydride, and anhydride fumaric The basic comonomers can be selected from aminoethyl methacrylates, butylaminoethyl, N, N'-dimethylaminoethyl and N-tert-butylaminoetyl. For example, the copolymer whose name CTFA (4th edition, 1991) is a copolymer of octylcarbonate / acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate and sold under the names AMPHOMER or LOVOCRYL 47 by the company National Starch can be used. (3) crosslinked and alkylated polyamino-amides partially or totally derived from polyamino amides of the formula (XIII): wherein: R2 is selected from divalent radicals derived from a selected entity of saturated dicarboxylic acids; mono- and dicarboxylic aliphatic acids containing an ethylenic double bond; esters of an Ci-C6 alkanol of any of these acids; and radicals derived from the addition of any of these acids to an amine selected from bis (primary) and bis (secondary) amines. The saturated carboxylic acids can be selected, for example, from acids having from 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such as, for example, adipic acid, 2, 2, 4-t-rimet-iladipic acid and 2, 4, 4-t iodinated rime, terephthalic acid, and acids containing an ethylenic double bond such as, for example, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, and itaconic acid. í, a, j a ^ .l é, .yi..j..i. -afa- » ~ . *** ¿^ ^^ __ flfca • • - 'J ******* Q is selected from polyalkylenepolyamine radicals bis (primary), mono- and bis (secondary) and may be present in the following proportions: a) from 60 to 100% molar of the radical (XIV) wherein p = 2 and q = 2 or 3, or alternatively p = 3 and q = 2, the radical (XIV) is derived from a selected entity of diethylenetriamine, triethylene tetraamine and dipropylenetriamine; b) from 0 to 40 mol% of the radical (XIV) where p = 2 and q = l and which is derived from ethylenediamine, or from the radical derived from piperazine: c) from 0 to 20 mol% of the radical (XIV) wherein P = 6 and q = l and which is derived from hexamethylenediamine, wherein the polyalkylene-polyamine Q radicals can be crosslinked by the addition of a difunctional crosslinking agent selected from epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides and bi-unsaturated derivatives, generally using between about 0.025 and 0.35 moles of the crosslinking agent per amine group of the polyamino amide and alkylated by the action of an alkylating agent selected from acrylic acid, chloroacetic acid, alkane sultone and salts of alkylating agents. The alkane sultones used in the alkylation may be propane sultone or butane sultone and the salts of the alkylating agents may be sodium or potassium salts. (4) polymers containing zwitterionic units of the formula (XV): where: R28 is selected from a polymerizable unsaturated group such as, for example, an acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group; r and s, which may be identical or different, are selected from an integer ranging from 1 to 3; R2g and R30, which may be identical or different, are selected from a hydrogen atom, and methyl, ethyl and propyl radicals; R3? and R32, which may be identical or different, are selected from a hydrogen atom and alkyl radicals such that the sum of the carbon atoms in R31 and R32 does not exceed 10. The polymers comprising these units may also contain derived units of non-zwitterionic monomers such as, for example, dimethyl or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides or vinyl acetate. By way of example, mention may be made of the copolymer of methyl methacrylate / methyl ethyl methacrylate of dimethylcarboxymethyl ammonium, sold as DIAFORMER Z301 by Sandoz. (5) polymers, as well as the salts formed by these compounds with bases or acids, chitosan derivatives containing monomer units corresponding to the following formulas (XVI), (XVII) and (XVIII): (XVI) (XVII) (XVIII) the unit (XVI) in general is present in proportions ranging from 0 and 30%, the unit (XVII) in general in proportions of between approximately 5 and 50% and the unit (XVIII) in general in proportions of between approximately 30 and 90%, it should be understood that, in the unit (XVIII), R2g is selected from a radical of the formula (XIX): in which: if t = 0, each R34, R35 and R36, which may be identical or different, are selected from a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical, a hydroxyl radical, ilfii an acetoxy radical, an amino residue, and a monoalkylamine residue a dialkylamine residue which are optionally interrupted by at least one nitrogen atom and / or optionally substituted with at least one substituent selected from amine groups, hydroxyl groups, carboxyl groups, alkylthio groups, sulphonic groups, alkylthio residues in which the alkyl group carries an amino residue, and wherein at least one of the radicals R34, R35 and R36 is a hydrogen atom, or, if t = 1, each R3, R35 and R36 is a hydrogen atom. (6) polymers derived from the N-carboxyalkylation of chitosan, such as, for example, N-carboxymethylquat osan or N-carboxybutylchitosan, sold under the name EVALSAN by Jan Dekker. (7) polymers corresponding to the general formula (XX) as described, for example, in French Patent No. 1,400,366: wherein: u is such that the molecular mass of the final polymer ranges from about 500 to 5,000,000, eg, from about 1,000 to 3,000,000. R 3 is selected from an atom of hydrogen, a CH30 radical, a CH3CH20 radical and a phenyl radical; R38 is selected from a hydrogen and C? -C alkyl radicals such as, for example, methyl or e t i i; R 39 is selected from hydrogen and C 1 -C 4 alkyl radicals such as, for example, methyl or ethyl; R4o is selected from Ci-C4 alkyl radicals such as for example methyl or ethyl and radicals corresponding to the formula: -R4i-N (R3g) 2, wherein R39 was defined above and R4? it will be defined later; R? it is selected from the groups -CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH2-CH2- and -CH2-CH (CH3) - as well as the higher homologs of these radicals containing up to 6 carbon atoms. (8) Amphoteric polymers of the type -Y-Z-Y-Z selected from: a) polymers obtained by the action of chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate in compounds containing at least one unit of the formula: -Y-Z-Y-Z-Y- where Y denotes a radical and Z, which may be identical or different, may be selected from T and T ', where T and T', which may be identical or different, are selected from divalent alkylene radicals containing a straight or branched chain of up to 7 atoms from a », i f 1 **» «Jg - ** aq? carbon in the main chain, which are not substituted or replaced by hydroxyl groups and wherein the radicals may contain selected groups of hydroxyl groups, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide, alcohol, ester and urethane; at least one atom is selected from oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms; and may also contain from 1 to 3 aromatic and / or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms are present in the form of ether, thioether, sulfoxide, sulfone, sulfonium, alkylamine and alkenylamine groups; b) polymers of the formula: -Y-Z-Y-Z- in which Y denotes a radical and Z, identical or different, can be selected from T and T ', at least in the case where Z is T1, wherein 20 T is selected from divalent alkylene radicals containing a straight or branched chain containing up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, which is unsubstituted or replaced with hydroxyl groups and where the The radicals may contain selected groups of hydroxyl, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide, alcohol, ester, and urethane groups; at least one atom selected from oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms; and may additionally contain from 1 to 3 aromatic and / or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms are present in the form of ether, thioether, sulfoxide, sulfone, sulfonium, alkylamine and alkene sheet groups; and T 'is selected from divalent alkylene radicals with a straight or branched chain having up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, which is unsubstituted or substituted with one or more hydroxyl radicals, the radicals contain one or more nitrogen atoms , the nitrogen atom is substituted with an alkyl chain which is optionally interrupted by an oxygen atom, where T 'necessarily contains at least one function selected from carboxyl and hydroxyl functions and T' is treated with betaine by reaction with acid chloroacetic or sodium chloroacetate. (9) (C 1 -C 5) alkyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers partially modified by semi-amidation with an N, N-dialkylaminoalkylamine such as, for example, N, N-dimethyl-aminopropylamine or semi-esterification with an N, N-dialkanolamine. These copolymers can also contain other vinyl comonomers such as, for example, vinylcaprolactam. Among the amphoteric polymers that can be used according to the invention, it is possible, for example, to use polymers of the family (1). At least one amphoteric polymer is generally present in the inventive composition in an amount sufficient to provide improved styling for keratinous fibers, wherein the composition contains at least one compound selected from ceramides and glycoceramides present in an effective amount to provide improved protection for fibers keratinous In one embodiment, at least one amphoteric polymer may be present in the inventive composition in an amount ranging from about 0.01 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In another embodiment, at least one amphoteric polymer is present in an amount ranging from about 0.05% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. - • * - "-" ^ ...-.-. - > , .- t ^ a ^ -.? - ut »^ > ft? r • 47 The composition of the present invention may contain various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for hair treatment, such as, for example, enunciative maternity: surfactants selected from anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric surfactants; polymers selected from anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymers other than cationic and amphoteric polymers 10 analyzed above; selected thickeners of inorganic and organic thickeners; antioxidants; stabilizing agents; propellants; sequestering agents; emollients; humectants; fragrances; acidifying and basifying agents; protectors 15 solar vitamins; essential fatty acids; proteins and protein derivatives; conservatives; and opacifiers. Needless to say, the person skilled in the art will be careful to select the optional adjuvants in such a way that the Advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the invention are not affected or, importantly, are not affected by the intended addition (s). The compositions of the present invention may be in a form selected from a aqueous emulsion, a gel, a spray, an aerosol foam, a cream, and a hydroalcoholic lotion. The present invention also shows a process for protecting keratinous fibers, such as, for example, human hair, from damage caused by chemical treatments, such as, for example, permanent waving, relaxation, discoloration, and dyeing, when applied to keratinous fibers a non-rinsing composition comprising at least one compound selected from ceramides and glycoceramides, and then, without rinsing, applying a chemical treatment composition to the keratinous fibers. In one embodiment, the non-rinsed composition used in the inventive process further comprises at least one polymer selected from at least one cationic polymer and at least one amphoteric polymer as described above. The present invention further shows a multi-compartment kit for the chemical treatment of keratinous fibers, comprising at least two compartments separately, wherein a first compartment contains a composition comprising at least one compound selected from ceramides and glycoceramides, and a second compartment contains a composition for the chemical treatment of keratinous fibers. In one embodiment, the first compartment can also contain at least one polymer selected from at least one cationic polymer and at least one amphoteric polymer as described above. The examples provided below, simply by way of illustration and not as limitation, will allow the invention to be understood more clearly.

EXAMPLES Example 1: Relaxing pre-treatment A pre-treatment composition having the following ingredients was sprayed by a cosmetologist to half the hair of a head and evenly distributed. It was observed that the composition had a good feeling, was easily distributed and also gave the hair a good feeling. The other head was not treated, the pre-treatment was applied to seven (7) subjects in this way. - • '- "' 'í' aMt > ^ i Without rinsing the hair, the cosmetologist applied a relaxing composition to the entire head of each subject and left the composition on the head for a sufficient time to relax the hair as desired. The hair was rinsed thoroughly, washed with a neutralizing shampoo, rinsed again and styled. The hair was evaluated before and after the washing step. Before shampooing, it was found that the relaxed hair with the pre-treatment had a softer feel and that it could be brushed better. After washing with shampoo, it was found that the • i ^ fcUbA ^ fcfcdi alillikií uáaliíaia -1 - '- «- ** &** -» »pre-treated, relaxed hair, better brushing capacity, smoother cuticle, softer feeling of shine than untreated hair. The results are shown in the following table. The evaluations, carried out by expert cosmetologists, were based on a classification system from 1 to 5, where 1 = deficient, 2 = no change, 3 = good, 4 = very good and 5 = excellent). The numbers listed below 10 are averages based on real readings for the 7 heads obtained during the test. Any difference in value equal to or less than ± 0.3 is not considered a significant difference in value. fifteen Example 2: Color pre-treatment for permed hair The pre-treatment composition of Example 1 was applied, except without the 0.50% fragrance, to half the hair of one head by a cosmetologist and evenly distributed. It was observed that the composition was easily applied through the hair. The other half of the head was not treated. Three (3) of the heads of the subjects were prepared in this way. Without rinsing the hair, the cosmetologist applied a permanent hair color composition (oxidation dye) to the entire head and left on it for at least 30 minutes to obtain the desired color. The hair was then rinsed thoroughly until the rinse water came out clear, then washed with a shampoo cleaner, rinsed again and dried. Hair was evaluated before washing with shampoo and after drying. After shampooing, it was found that the dry hair with the pre-treatment had significantly improved properties of untangling wet hair, dryness of dry hair and dry hair feeling. After drying, it was found that pre-treated, dry hair had better static properties, dry hair smoothness, dry hair feeling, easy to fix / tighten, hair elasticity, hair manageability and shine compared to hair that had not been pre-treated. The results are shown in the following table. The evaluations, carried out by expert cosmetologists, were based on a classification system from 1 to 5, where 1 = deficient, 2 = no change, 3 = good, 4 = very good and 5 = excellent. The numbers listed below are averages based on actual readings for the 3 heads obtained during the test. Any difference in value less than ± 0.5 is not considered a significant difference in value.

Example 3: Pre-treatment Composition The following pre-treatment composition was formulated to be used as a composition for not rinsing before chemical hair treatment.

Example: Pre-treatment composition The following pre-treatment composition was formulated to be used as a composition for not rinsing before chemical hair treatment.

The above written description relates to various embodiments of the present invention. Many changes and modifications thereof can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as defined in the following claims.

- "SHrtÉ **

Claims (52)

1. CLAIMS: 1. A composition for the protection of keratinous fibers, the composition comprises: at least one compound selected from ceramides and glycoceramides, at least one cationic polymer, and at least one amphoteric polymer.
2. 2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the ceramides and glycoceramides are selected from natural and synthetic ceramides, natural and synthetic glycoceramides, natural and synthetic pseudoceramides and natural and synthetic neoceramides.
3. 3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the natural and synthetic ceramides and the natural and synthetic glycoceramides correspond to the following formula (I): wherein a ^ ^ a ^ j in. ^^ .1 Ri is selected from: linear and branched saturated and unsaturated C5-C50 hydrocarbon radicals, wherein the hydrocarbon radicals may be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group, at least a hydroxyl group is optionally esterified with ReCOOH acid wherein Re is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched C? -C35 hydrocarbon radicals which may be monohydroxy or polyhydric and further wherein the R? hydrocarbon radicals are mono or polyhydric, "the hydroxyl groups can be esterified with a compound selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched C? -C35 fatty acids which can be monohydroxy or polyhydric, radicals -R" - (NR-CO) -R ', wherein R is selected from a hydrogen atom and hydrocarbon radicals of C? -C2o mono and polydihydroxylated, and R 'and R "are selected from hydrocarbon radicals in which the sum of the carbon atoms varies from 9 to 30, R1 is a divalent radical, and radicals -R7-0-CO- (CH) a, wherein R7 is selected from radicals C1-C20 hydrocarbon is already an integer ranging from 1 to 12, R2 is selected from a hydrogen atom and radicals (glycosyl) b, (galact osi lo) c, sulfo- Go *. s' 'A' galactosyl, phosphorylethylamine and phosphorylethylamine, where b is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and c is an integer ranging from 1 to 8; R3 is selected from a hydrogen atom and hydroxylated, non-hydroxylated, saturated and unsaturated C?-C33 hidrocar hydrocarbon radicals, it being possible for the hydroxylated hydrocarbon radicals to be esterified with a selected acid of inorganic acids and organic acids of the formula R6COOH , Wherein R was defined above, it being also possible for hydroxylated hydrocarbon radicals to be etherified with a radical selected from (glycosyl) b, (galactosyl) c / sulfogalactosyl radicals, fos for i let ilamine and fosfori let ilamonio, 15 wherein b and c are as defined above, and also it is possible for R3 to be substituted with at least one C? -C alkyl radical?; R is selected from a hydrogen atom, methyl radicals, ethyl radicals, hydrocarbon radicals 20 C3-C50 optionally hydroxylated, linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated and radicals -CH2-CHOH-CH2-0-Rs in which R8 is selected from hydrocarbon radicals of C? 0-C26 and radicals -R7-0-CO - (CH2) a, R7 is selected from hydrocarbon radicals of C1-C20 is already a 25 integer that varies from 1 to 12; ? fc »- > -Jheaae. J jj ^ l ja, ...? jt Ag »R5 is selected from a hydrogen atom and optionally linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C?-C30 hydrocarbon radicals, optionally for the hydroxyl radicals which are etherified with a radical selected from radicals ( glycosyl) b, (galactosyl) c, sulfogalactosyl, phosphorylethylamine and phosphorylethylammonium, wherein b and c were previously defined; with the proviso that when R3 and R5 are a hydrogen atom or when R3 is a hydrogen atom and R5 is a methyl radical, then R4 is not a hydrogen atom or a methyl or ethyl radical.
4. 4. The composition according to claim 15 3, wherein in the radicals R "- (R-CO) -R ', R is selected from monohydroxylated C1-C20 hydrocarbon radicals.
5. 5. The composition of claim 20 3, wherein in formula (I), R3 is selected from radicals a-hydroxyalkyl C? 5-C26 wherein the hydroxyl group can optionally be esterified with an a-hydroxy acid C? 6 -C3o. ^ sa ^ JS ^
6. 6. The composition according to claim 3, wherein in the formula (I), Ri is a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical, optionally hydroxylated, derived from C 14 -C 22 fatty acids; R2 is a hydrogen atom; and R3 is a saturated, optionally linear hydroxylated Cp-Cn radical.
7. 7. The composition according to claim 6, wherein R3 is a saturated, optionally linear hydroxylated C? 3-C? 5 radical.
8. 8. The composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one compound selected from ceramides and glycoceramides is selected from: -N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, -N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, -N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, -N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, -N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, -N- 2-h? droxipalmitoildihidroesfingosina, -N-estearoilfitosfingosina, -2 -oleamido- 1, 3-oct adecandiol and -N-palmitamidohexadecandiol.
9. 9. The composition according to claim 8, wherein at least one compound selected from ceramides and glycoceramides is selected from 2-oleamido-1,3-octadecandiol and N-2-hydroxypallite oildi-hydrosphingosine.
10. 10. The composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one cationic polymer is selected from cationic polymers containing monomer units comprising amine groups selected from primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine groups, wherein the amine groups can either be part of the main polymer chain or can be carried by a lateral substituent attached directly thereto.
11. 11. The composition according to claim 10, wherein at least one cationic polymer is selected from polyamine, polyamino amide and polyammonium quaternary polymers.
12. 12. The composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one cationic polymer is selected from polyquaternium-2, polyquat ernium-34, and hexadimet chloride.
13. 13 The composition of claim 1 wherein at least one amphoteric polymer is selected from polymers containing at least one unit K and at least one M unit, the K units and M are distributed randomly in the polymer chain, wherein K is selects from units derived from monomers containing at least one basic nitrogen atom and M is selected from units derived from acidic monomers containing at least one group selected from carboxylic and sulphonic groups; or K and M, which may be identical or different, may be selected from units derived from monomers selected from zwitterionic monomers of carboxyethane and sulfobetaine; or K and M, which may be identical or different, may be selected from cationic polymer chains containing at least one amine group selected from primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups carries a group selected from carboxylic and sulfonic groups linked to the amine by a hydrocarbon radical; or ^^^^^^^^ ¿^ 's?! A¿fe.A it K and M form part of a polymer having an ethylene unit, ß-dicarboxy ico 1, in which one of the carboxyl groups has reacted with a polyamide containing at least one selected group of primary and secondary amine groups.
14. 14. The composition according to the claim 13, wherein at least one amphoteric polymer is selected from dialkyl laminoalkyl methacrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkyl aminoalkylmethacrylamide and dialkylaminoalkyl acrylamide copolymers, and dialkyldiallylammonium salts.
15. 15. The composition according to the claim 14, wherein at least one amphoteric polymer is polyquaternium-22.
16. 16. The composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one compound selected from ceramides and glycoceramides is present in the composition in an amount effective to provide improved protection for keratinous fibers. ** - ', j? - - * - * - ** "
17. 17. The composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one compound selected from ceramides and glycoceramides is present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.0005% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
18. 18. The composition according to claim 17, wherein at least one compound selected from 0 ceramides and glycoceramides is present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.001% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
19. The composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one cationic polymer is present in the composition in an effective amount - to provide improved styling to the keratinous fibers, and further wherein the composition 0 contains at least one selected compound of ceramides and glycoceramides present in an effective amount to provide improved protection to the keratinous fibers.
20. 20. The composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one cationic polymer is present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
21. 21. The composition according to claim 20, wherein at least one cationic polymer is present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.05% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
22. 22. The composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one amphoteric polymer is present in the composition in an amount effective to provide improved stylization to the keratinous fibers, and further wherein the composition contains at least one compound selected from ceramides and glycoceramides present. in an effective amount to provide improved protection to the keratinous fibers.
23. 23. The composition according to the claim 1, wherein at least one amphoteric polymer is present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition
24. 24. The composition according to claim 23, wherein at least one amphoteric polymer is present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.05% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
25. 25. The composition according to the claim 1, further comprising at least one adjuvant selected from surfactants selected from anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric surfactants; polymers selected from additional anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric polymers; selected thickeners of inorganic and organic thickeners; antioxidants; stabilizing agents; propellants; sequestering agents; emollients; humectants; fragrances; acidifying and basifying agents; Sunscreens; vitamins; essential fatty acids; proteins and protein derivatives; conservatives; and opacifying.
26. 26. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition is in the form of an aqueous emulsion, a gel, a roclo, or a hydroalcoholic lotion.
27. 27. A process for protecting the keratinous fibers from the damage caused by the chemical treatment of the keratinous fibers comprising: applying to the keratinous fibers a composition which is not rinsed and which comprises at least one compound selected from ceramides and glycoceramides, applied to the fibers keratinous, which have, in the same composition that is not rinsed, a chemical treatment composition for the chemical treatment of keratinous fibers.
28. 28. The process according to claim 27, wherein the chemical treatment is selected from dyeing, decoloration, relaxation and permanent waving.
29. 29. The process according to claim 27, wherein the ceramides and glycoceramides are selected from natural or synthetic ceramides, glycoceramides, pseudoceramides and neoceramides. ^ J ^^^^ 2 ^^^ jjj ¡£ ^ ^ * ^ ¡jg &¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡
30. 30. The process according to claim 29, wherein the natural or synthetic ceramides and glycoceramides correspond to the following formula (I): wherein Ri is selected from: saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched C5-C50 hydrocarbon radicals, wherein the hydrocarbon radicals can be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group, at least one hydroxyl group is optionally esterified with R6C00H acid wherein R6 it is selected from saturated and unsaturated linear and branched C 1 -C 35 hydrocarbon radicals which may be monohydroxy or polyhydric and furthermore where the hydrocarbon radicals of R 6 are mono or polyhydroxylated, the hydroxyl groups may be esterified with a compound selected from fatty acids of C? -C35 saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched which can be monohydroxy or polyhydric, radicals -R "- (NR-CO) -R ', wherein R is selected from a hydrogen atom and radicals • - * 1 * * * • - C &sub1; -C &sub2; or monohydroxylated hydrocarbon, and R &sub1; and R &sub2; are selected from hydrocarbon radicals in which the sum of the carbon atoms varies from 9 to 30, R 'is a radical divalent, and radicals -R7-0-CO- (CH) a, wherein R7 is selected from hydrocarbon radicals of C? -C2o is already an integer ranging from 1 to 12, R2 is selected from a hydrogen atom and radicals (glycosyl) b, (galactosyl) c, sulfo-galactosyl, phosphorylethylamine and fos for i let ilamonium, where b is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and c is an integer ranging from 1 to 8; it is selected from a hydrogen atom and hydroxylated, non-hydroxylated, saturated and unsaturated C1-C33 hydrocarbon radicals, it being possible for the hydroxylated hydrocarbon radicals to be esterified with a selected acid of inorganic acids and organic acids of the formula ReCOOH, wherein R6 was previously defined, also being possible for the radica Hydroxylated hydrocarbons that are etherified with a radical selected from radicals (glycosyl) b, (galact osi lo) c, sulfogalactosyl, fos for i let i lamina and fos fori let i lamonio, "where b and c are as defined above, it also being possible for R3 to be substituted with at least one C? -C? alkyl radical; R4 is selected from a hydrogen atom, methyl radicals, ethyl radicals, C3 hydrocarbon radicals -C50 optionally hydroxylated, linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated and radicals -CH2-CHOH-CH2-0-R8 in which R8 is selected from hydrocarbon radicals of C? 0-C26 and radicals -R7-O-CO- (CH2 ) a, R7 is selected from C1-C20 hydrocarbon radicals and is an integer ranging from 1 to 12, R5 is selected from a hydrogen atom and C1-C30 hydrocarbon radicals mono and polyhydroxylated optionally, linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, it being possible for the hydroxyl radicals to be etherified with a radical selected from radicals (glycosyl) b, (galactosyl) c, sulfogalactosyl, phosphorylethylamine and osphoryl ammonium, where b and c were defined above, with the proviso that and when R3 and R5 are a hydrogen atom or when R3 is a hydrogen atom and R5 is a methyl radical, then R4 is not a hydrogen atom or a methyl or ethyl radical.
31. 31. The process according to claim 30, wherein in the radicals R "- (NR-CO) -R ', R is selected from monohydroxylated Ci-C20 hydrocarbon radicals.
32. 32. The process according to claim 30, wherein in the formula (I), R3 is selected from C5-C26 α-hydroxyalkyl radicals wherein the hydroxyl group may optionally be esterified with an α-hydroxy acid of C? 6- 6-. C3o.
33. 33. The process according to claim 30, wherein in the formula (I), Ri is a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical, optionally hydroxylated, derived from C 14 -C 22 fatty acids; R2 is a hydrogen atom; and R3 is a saturated, optionally linear hydroxylated C11 -C17 radical.
34. 34. The process according to claim 33, wherein R3 is a C13-C15 saturated, optionally linear hydroxylated radical.
35. 35. The process according to claim 27, wherein at least one compound selected from ceramides and glycoceramides is selected from: -N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, -N-oleoidihydrosphingosm, ¡T? J. .k i, .j. »* -: ... 'JÍ? i i -N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, -N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, -N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, -N-2-hydroxypamitoyldihydrosphingosine, -N-is t-taryoyl f y tines f inosine, -2-oleamido-1, 3-oct adecanediol and-N-palmitamidohexadecandiol.
36. 36. The process according to claim 35, wherein at least one compound selected from ceramides and glycoceramides is selected from 2-oleamido-l, 3-octadecandiol and N-2-hydroxipal Imi t oi 1 di-hy droe s f ingosine.
37. 37. The process according to claim 27, wherein the non-rinsing composition further comprises at least one polymer selected from at least one cationic polymer and at least one amphoteric polymer.
38. 38. The process according to claim 37, wherein at least one cationic polymer is selected from cationic polymers containing monomer units comprising amine groups selected from primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine groups, wherein the amine groups may already be formed part of the main polymer chain or it They can be carried by a lateral substituent attached directly to it.
39. 39. The process according to claim 38, wherein at least one cationic polymer is selected from polyamine, polyamino amide and polymers of "quaternary polyammonium.
40. 40. The process according to claim 39, wherein at least one cationic polymer is selected from polyquaternium-2, polyquat ernium-3 and hexadimethrine chloride.
41. 41. The process according to claim 37, wherein at least one amphoteric polymer is selected from "polymers containing at least one unit K and at least one unit M, the units K and M are randomly distributed in the polymer chain, wherein K is selected from units derived from monomers containing at least one basic nitrogen atom and M it is selected from units derived from acidic monomers containing at least one group selected from carboxylic and sulphonic groups; ? i *? *. * á «Í0. K and M, which may be identical or different, may be selected from units derived from monomers selected from zwitterionic monomers of carboxyetin and sulfobetaine; or K and M, which may be identical or different, may be selected from cationic polymer chains containing at least one amine group selected primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine groups, in which at least one groups carries a selected group of carboxylic and sulphonic groups bound to the amine by a hydrocarbon radical; or K and M are part of a polymer with an α, β-dicarboxylic ethylene unit, in which one of the carboxyl groups has been reacted with a polyamine containing at least one group selected from primary and secondary amine groups.
42. 42. The process according to claim 41, wherein at least one amphoteric polymer is selected from dialkyl laminoalkyl methacrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl 1 methacrylamide and dialkylaminoalkyl acrylamide copolymers and dialkyldiallylammonium salts. ü 'étÉ íJk ttíkv? - ** .. 4 bJ ~ * V * "* -? «, É * ¿lv:. &,. * And * - ¿?
43. 43. The process according to claim 42, wherein at least one amphoteric polymer amphoteric is polyquaternium-22.
44. 44. The process according to claim 27, wherein at least one compound that is selected from ceramides and glycoceramides is present in the composition in an amount effective to provide improved protection to the keratinous fibers.
45. 45. The process according to claim 27, wherein at least one compound selected from ceramides and glycoceramides is present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.0005% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
46. 46. The process according to claim 27, wherein at least one cationic polymer is present in the composition in an amount effective to provide enhanced styling to the keratinous fibers, and further wherein the composition contains at least one compound selected from ceramides and glycoceramides present. in a quantity ^^ ¿^ ¿^^^^^ ggsy * ^ effective to provide improved protection to keratinous fibers.
47. 47. The process according to claim 27, wherein at least one cationic polymer is present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.01 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
48. 48. The process according to claim 27, wherein at least one amphoteric polymer is present in the composition "in an amount effective to provide improved styling to the keratinous fibers, and further wherein the composition contains at least one compound selected from ceramides and glycoceramides. present in an effective amount to provide improved protection to the keratinous fibers.
49. 49. The process according to claim 27, wherein at least one amphoteric polymer is present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.01 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
50. No. 50. A multi-compartment kit for the chemical treatment of keratinous fibers, the kit comprises at least two compartments separately, wherein a first compartment contains a composition comprising at least one compound selected from ceramides and glycoceramides, and a second compartment contains a composition for chemical treatment of fibers 10 keratinous.
51. 51. The multi-compartment case according to claim 50, wherein the composition for chemical treatment of the keratinous fibers 15 is selected from a composition for dyeing, a composition for bleaching, a composition for permanent bending, a relaxing composition.
52. 52. The case of multiple compartments 20 according to claim 51, wherein the composition comprising at least one compound selected from ceramides and glycoceramides further comprises at least one polymer selected from at least one cationic polymer and at least one amphoteric polymer. 5 SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a composition for the protection of keratinous fibers containing at least one compound selected from ceramides and glycoceramides, at least one cationic polymer and at least one amphoteric polymer; with a process and a case for protecting the keratinous fibers from the damage caused by chemical treatment by applying, before chemical treatment to the keratinous fibers, a composition which is not rinsed and which comprises at least one compound selected from ceramides and glycoceramides. or \ i \ t > t ^ ** ^ **, ^ *** ^ ni i iiiiilMiliiií I IHÍIIMÉMÍII MGII MÉÉÉ ¡müs »