BR112015032234B1 - particular composition and process for the care, cleaning and / or conditioning of keratin materials - Google Patents

Abstract

Abstract "Particular composition and process for the care, cleaning and / or conditioning of keratin materials" The present invention relates to a composition comprising one or more anionic surfactants chosen from the sulfonate and carboxylate surfactants, and cetyl betaine. The present invention also relates to a treatment process, especially for cleaning or conditioning hair, which utilizes such a composition.

Description

“PARTICULAR COMPOSITION AND PROCESS FOR THE CARE, CLEANING AND / OR CONDITIONING OF KERATIN MATTERS” [001] The present invention deals with compositions, in particular capillary compositions, which comprise a combination of at least one particular anionic surfactant, and a particular amphoteric surfactant, and also a treatment process that uses that composition. These compositions are more particularly intended for washing keratin materials, in particular hair.

[002] Hair has a tendency to lose some of its qualities due to the action of factors, in particular such as natural greasiness, sweat, the removal of scales, pollution or moisture. The visual appearance and touch of the hair can thus be impaired. Re-greasiness, for example, makes the hair licked, and it then has a tendency to form lumps. Hair can become increasingly difficult to comb, and have an unpleasant oily shine or an unpleasant waxy touch.

[003] It is known practice to wash hair with shampoos, which are generally aqueous compositions that contain large amounts of surfactants, usually anionic surfactants, mainly of the sulfate type, alone or in combination with amphoteric and / or non-ionic surfactants. These shampoos can cause discomfort such as burning of the scalp or eyes when they come in contact with the shampoo. In addition, gradually over the course of their applications, these surfactants can impair the cosmetic properties of the hair, thus leading to the need to also use conditioning agents such as cationic polymers, silicone or non-silicone oils. In addition, rinsing cosmetic compositions with a high content of surfactants can often be time-consuming. Finally, to prevent them from slipping during application and,

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2/30 especially, which run into the eyes, shampoos should generally be thickened; but its thickening can cause stability problems of the composition.

[004] Consumers are constantly looking for cosmetic compositions, especially for washing keratin materials, which allow to obtain a detergency similar to that obtained with a regular shampoo, for example based on a sulfate-type surfactant, but without using such a type. surfactant; consumers are also looking for a composition that is capable of generating an abundant, creamy foam that is easy to rinse, thus allowing the use of excessive amounts of water to be avoided.

[005] The purpose of the present invention is to propose such a composition, which is capable of quickly generating an abundant, dense, creamy foam, which is easy to rinse.

[006] An object of the present invention is, therefore, a composition comprising:

- one or more anionic surfactants chosen from the anionic surfactants sulfonate and carboxylate, and

- cetyl betaine [007] The composition according to the present invention is easy to distribute and spread over a hair.

[008] It has also been discovered that the composition according to the present invention gives hair satisfactory cosmetic properties, more particularly improved conditioning properties, especially in terms of softness, flexibility, smoothness (smoothness) and detangling; and the shine of the hair is also improved.

[009] The composition according to the present invention gives the keratin materials a natural and clean touch after removal; it is particularly suitable for curly hair, and allows to obtain curls

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3/30 bright, flexible.

[010] In the present description, the term at least one is equivalent to the term one or more and can be replaced by it; the term between is equivalent to the term that varies from and can be replaced by it, which implies that the limits are included.

Particular Anionic Surfactant [011] The composition according to the present invention thus comprises one or more anionic surfactants chosen from the anionic surfactants sulfonate and carboxylate.

Anionic Sulfonate Surfactant [012] The composition according to the present one can comprise one or more anionic sulfonate surfactants.

[013] For the purposes of the present invention, the term anionic sulfonate surfactant means an anionic surfactant comprising one or more sulfonate functions (-SO3H or -SO3 ^- ) and which may optionally also comprise one or more carboxylic or carboxylate functions (-COOH or COO-).

[014] Alkyl sulfoacetates, alkyl sulphonates, alkyl amide sulphonates, alkylaryl sulphonates, α-olefin sulphonates, paraffin sulphonates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, alkyl amide sulfosuccinates, acyl alkyls and the Naciltaurates, and also the corresponding salified forms, and the alkyl and acyl groups preferably comprise 6 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 24 or even 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and the aryl group which preferably designates a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds can be oxyethylene, and therefore preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and more preferably from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

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4/30 [015] When anionic surfactants are in the form of salt, they can be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt and preferably, sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and, in particular, amino alcohol salts or alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts. Examples of amino alcohol salts that can be cited include the monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, the monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, the 2-amino-2-methyl-1propanol salts, the 2-amino- 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and the tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane salts. The alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts and, in particular, the sodium or magnesium salts, are preferably used.

[016] Among anionic sulfonate surfactants, acyl (C6-C24) isethionates, alkyl (C6-C24) sulfosuccinates and alkyl (C6-C24) ether sulfosuccinates which comprise 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units are more particularly preferred; these compounds can be in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol or alkaline earth salts; or a mixture of these compounds.

[017] Most preferably, the acyl (C12-C20) isethionates, the alkyl (C12-C20) sulfosuccinates and the alkyl (C12-C20) ether sulfosuccinates comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, in particular in the form of salts of alkali metals, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline earth metals, or a mixture of these compounds, are preferred.

Anionic Carboxylate Surfactant [018] The composition according to the present invention can comprise one or more anionic carboxylate surfactants.

[019] For the purposes of the present invention, the term anionic surfactant carboxylate means an anionic surfactant comprising one or more

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5/30 plus carboxylic or carboxylate functions (-COOH or -COO ^- ), and do not comprise any sulfonate functions (-SO3H or -SO3 ^- ).

[020] They can be advantageously chosen from acylglycinates, acylsarcosinates, acyl lactylates and acylglutamates, acyl groups which preferably comprise 14 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms; and also the corresponding salified forms. These compounds can be optionally oxyethylene, and then they preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and more preferably from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[021] The alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids such as those of alkyl glycoside citrates and alkyl polyglycoside tartrates can also be used, and the alkyl group comprises from 14 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 6 to 22 carbon atoms.

[022] Uronic alkyl-D-galactoside acids and their salts and also the alkyl (C14-30) ether of polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acids, alkyl (C14-30) aryl (C6-30) ether of carboxylic acids can also be mentioned polyoxyalkylene, the (C14-30) alkyl starch ether of polyoxyalkylene carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof.

[023] Salts which may be mentioned, in particular, include alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salts, ammonium, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or alkali metal salts. earth, for example magnesium salts.

[024] The salts of amino alcohols that may be mentioned include the salts of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, the salts of monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine, the salts of 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, the salts of 2 -amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and the

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6/30 salts of tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane.

[025] Alkali or alkaline earth metal salts and, in particular, sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.

[026] Preferably, anionic carboxylate surfactants are chosen from acyl (C14-C30) glutamates and in particular stearoylglutamates, lauroylglutamates and cocoylglutamates; acyl (C14C30) sarcosinates and, in particular, palmitoylsarcosinates, stearoylsarcosinates, lauroylsarcosinates and cocoylsarcosinates; acyl (C14-C30) lactylates and in particular beenoyl lactylates, lauroyl lactylates and (iso) stearoyl lactylates; alkyl ether carboxylates and, in particular, lauryl ether carboxylates; and mixtures thereof, in particular in the form of salts of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, ammonium, amine or amino alcohol.

[027] Disodium cocoylglutamate and sodium lauroylsarcosinate can also be mentioned more particularly.

[028] The composition according to the present invention preferably comprises the said anionic surfactant (s) in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably 1% to 12% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight and preferably from 2% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[029] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one anionic sulfonate surfactant and at least one anionic carboxylate surfactant.

[030] In a particular embodiment of the present invention, the composition does not comprise any sulfated anionic surfactants. According to the present invention, because it does not comprise any sulfated anionic surfactants, it is understood that the composition comprises less than 1% by weight, or even 0% by weight of sulfated anionic surfactants.

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7/30

Amphoteric surfactants [031] The composition according to the present invention also comprises cetyl betaine.

[032] The cetyl betaine according to the present invention corresponds to the following formula:

CH, l ₊

R — N-CH ₉ COOI ²

CH, ³ (Ao) [033] As a raw material that can be used in the composition of the present invention can be mentioned the product sold under the reference DETAINE PB by DEFOREST ENTREPRISE and the product sold under the reference AMPHOSOL CDB SPECIAL by STEPAN, being that the latter is a mixture of cetyl betaine and lauryl betaine.

[034] The composition according to the present invention preferably comprises said cetylbetaine in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight and, preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Other Ingredients [035] The composition according to the present invention can also optionally comprise one or more additional amphoteric surfactants, other than cetylbetaines.

[036] Additional amphoteric surfactants can be chosen preferably from other alkylbetaines, in particular the alkylbetaines of formula (Ao) in which R is a linear alkyl radial mainly with C12, such as lauryl betaine and / or cocobetaine.

[037] In this case, the weight ratio cetyl betaine / other alkylbetaines is greater than 0.15, more preferably, greater than 0.2, more preferably still greater than 0.25.

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8/30 [038] Additional amphoteric surfactants can also be chosen from sulfobetaines, alkyl (C8-C20) sulfobetaines, alkyl (C8-C20) alkylamidoalkyl (C1-C6) betaines, such as cocoamidopropylbetaine, and alkyl (C8-C20) amidoalkyl (C1-C6) sulfobetaines.

[039] Additional amphoteric surfactants that can also be cited include those derived from optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines having the following structures (A1) and (A2):

(A1) Ra-CON (Z) CH2- (CH2) mN ⁺ (Rb) (Rc) (CH2COO-) [040] in which:

Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from a Ra-COOH acid preferably present in hydrogenated copra oil, a heptyl group, a nonyl group or an undecyl group,

Rb represents a β-hydroxyethyl group,

Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;

m is equal to 0, 1 or 2,

Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group;

(A2) Ra '- CON (Z) CH2- (CH2) m-N (B) (B') [041] in which:

B represents -CH2CH2OX ', with X' representing -CH2-COOH, CH2-COOZ ',

-CH2CH2-COOH, -CH2CH2-COOZ ', or a hydrogen atom,

B 'represents - (CH2) Z-Y', with z = 1 or 2, and Y representing COOH, -COOZ ', -CH2-CHOH-SO3H or -CH2-CHOH-SO3Z';

m 'is equal to 0, 1 or 2,

Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group;

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9/30

Z 'represents an ion that results from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as a sodium, potassium or magnesium ion; an ammonium; or an ion resulting from an organic amine and, in particular, between an amino alcohol, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine, 2 amino-2- methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane,

Ra 'represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of a RaCOOH acid preferably present in the linseed oil in the hydrolyzed copra oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C17 alkyl group, and its iso form, or an iso group C17 unsaturated.

[042]

Between these two structures, compounds that correspond to formula (A2) are preferred. These compounds are classified in the dictionary CTFA, 5th edition, 1993, the disodium cocoamphodiacetate names disodium lauroanfodiacetato, disodium caprilanfodiacetato, disodium capriloanfodiacetato, disodium cocoanfodipropionato, disodium lauroanfodipropionato, disodium caprilanfodipropionato, disodium capriloanfodipropionato the lauroanfodipropiônico acid and cocoanfodipropiônico acid.

[043] Examples that can be cited include cocoanphodiacetate sold by Rhodia under the trade name Miranol ^® C2M

Concentrate or under the trade name Miranol Ultra C 32 and the product sold by Chimex under the trade name Chimexane HA.

[044] The compounds of formula (A3) can also be used:

(A3) R _a ”-NH-CH (Y) - (CH2) nC (O) -NH- (CH2) n, -N (Rd) (Re) in which:

- Ra ”represents an alkyl or alkenyl group with C10-C30 of a Ra-C (O) OH acid preferably present in hydrolyzed linseed oil or hydrolysed copra oil;

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10/30

- Y represents ο -C (O) OH, -C (O) OZ, -CH2-CH (OH) -SO ₃ H group or -CH2-CH (OH) -SO3-Z group, with Z representing a counterion cationic which results from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine;

- Rd and Re represent, independently of each other, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical with C1-C4; and

- n and ri designate, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

[045] In particular, the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary with the name “sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide” (diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide sodium) and sold by Chimex under the name Chimexane HB can be cited.

[046] Preferably, additional amphoteric surfactants are chosen from lauryl betaine and / or cocobetaine.

[047] The composition according to the present invention can preferably comprise the additional amphoteric surfactant (s) in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% in weight and preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[048] The composition according to the present invention can also optionally comprise one or more diesters of polyethylene glycol fatty acids comprising 10 to 500 oxyethylene units.

[049] The polyethylene glycol fatty acid diesters that can be used according to the present invention advantageously have the following formula (A):

O

II

R — C

O — CH — CH ₂ (A)

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11/30 in which:

- R and R ', which may be identical or different, designate a straight or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain comprising from 7 to 29 carbon atoms; and

- n designates an integer ranging from 10 to 500.

[050] Preferably, R designates a straight or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain comprising from 1 to 23 carbon atoms, more preferably from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and preferably comprising 17 carbon atoms.

[051] Preferably, R 'designates a straight or branched or alkenyl alkyl chain comprising from 11 to 23 carbon atoms, more preferably from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and preferably comprising 17 carbon atoms.

[052] Preferably, R and R 'are identical.

[053] Preferably, n designates an integer ranging from 20 to 400, in particular from 50 to 300 or even from 100 to 200.

[054] In a particularly preferred mode, said diester is a polyethylene glycol distearate which comprises from 10 to 500, preferably from 20 to 400, preferably from 50 to 300 and more preferably from 100 to 200 oxyethylene units.

[055] The composition according to the present invention preferably comprises the said diesters of polyethylene glycol fatty acids in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight and preferably 1% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[056] The composition according to the present invention can also optionally comprise one or more polymers, preferably chosen from cationic or amphoteric polymers, and also their

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12/30 mixtures.

[057] The term cationic polymer means any polymer that comprises cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups. Preferably, the cationic polymer is hydrophilic or amphiphile. Preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those containing units that comprise primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups that can be part of the main polymer chain or can be carried by a side substituent directly connected to it.

[058] The cationic polymers that can be used preferably have an average molar mass in weight (Mw) between approximately 500 and 5x10 ⁶ and, preferably, between 10 ³ and 3x10 ⁶ approximately.

[059] Among the cationic polymers, the following can be mentioned more particularly:

(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units with the following formulas:

l · ³ r ₃ | ^{3 R} 3 ^R 3 ^CH 2 C —Ch, -c— ² I ^CH 2 C _ch ₂ -C— ² I O = C I O = C I O = C | O = C 1 O 1 O NH | NH _X _ 1 1 X- 1 1 ^X THE THE THE THE N | R— N + -R ₆ N R — N ⁺ - ^r 6 / \ ⁴ 1 ⁶ / \ 1 R ₂ ^R 1 ^R 5 R1 ^R 2 ^R 5

[060] in which

- R3, which can be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or radical CH3;

- A, which may be identical or different, represent a divalent linear or branched alkyl group with 1 to 6 carbon atoms, of

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Preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

- R4, R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, preferably an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

- R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;

- X designates an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

[061] Copolymers of the family (1) can also contain one or more units derived from comonomers that can be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted in nitrogen with lower alkyls (C1-C4), acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyl lactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.

[062] Among these family copolymers (1), we can mention:

- copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name Hercofloc by Hercules,

- copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as those sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by Ciba Geigy,

- copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as the product sold under the name Reten by Hercules,

- copolymers of acrylate or methacrylate of

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14/30 vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl quaternized or non-quaternized, such as products sold under the name Gafquat by ISP, such as Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or products known as Copolymer 845, 958 and 937. These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2,077,143 and 2,393,573,

- dimethylaminoethyl / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone methacrylate terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by ISP,

- vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyl dimethylamine copolymers, such as those sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP,

- quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by ISP,

- preferably, crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C1-C4) trialkyl (C1-C4) ammonium salts, such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, or by dimethylmethylamine acrylamide copolymerization. quaternized with methyl chloride, and homopolymerization or copolymerization is followed by cross-linking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, more particularly methylenebisacrylamide. A crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymers in mineral oil can be used more particularly. This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare ^® SC 92 by Ciba. A cross-linked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium which contains approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester can also be used. These dispersions are sold with

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15/30 names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by Ciba.

(2) Cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums. Among the cationic polysaccharides, cellulosic ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cellulosic cationic copolymers or cellulosic derivatives grafted with a hydrosoluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums can be mentioned more particularly.

[063] Cellulosic ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are described, in particular in French patent 1 492 597, and the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer “JR” (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M can be mentioned) ) or “LR” (LR 400 or LR 30M) by Amerchol.

[064] These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammonium hydroxyethyl cellulose that reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.

[065] Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described, in particular, in US patent 4 131 576, and hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, in particular, with a salt of methacrylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium. Commercial products that meet this definition are more particularly those sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by National Starch.

[066] Cationic galactomannan gums as described more particularly in US patents 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, and guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups can be cited. For example, guar gums modified with a salt can be used

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16/30

2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium (for example, chloride). Such products are sold, in particular, under the trade names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 or Jaguar C162 by Rhodia.

(3) Polymers formed from piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals that contain straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic cycles, as well as oxidation products and / or quaternization of these polymers.

(4) The water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared, in particular. by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be cross-linked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bishalohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacildiamine, an alkyl bis-halide or even an oligomer that it results from the reaction of a difunctional compound that is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bishaloacildiamine, an alkyl bis-halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per polyiminoamide amine group; and polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they comprise one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized.

(5) Polyaminoamide derivatives that result from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with bifunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkylialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical comprises 1 to 4 carbon atoms and, preferably, designates methyl, ethyl or propyl. Among these derivatives, adipic acid polymers can be mentioned more particularly

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17/30 / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylenetriamine sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by Sandoz.

(6) Polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing 3 to 8 carbon atoms; and the molar ratio between polyalkylene polyamine and dicarboxylic acid preferably ranges from 0.8: 1 to 1.4: 1; the resulting polyamino amide is reacted with the epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to the secondary amine group of the polyamino amide, preferably between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1. Polymers of this type are sold, in particular, with the

name Hercosett 57 by Hercules Inc. or, also, with the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by Hercules no case of copolymer in acid adipic / epoxypropyl / diethylene triamine. (7) The cyclopolymers in alkyldialylamine or in

dialkyldialylammonium, such as homopolymers or copolymers that contain, as the main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (I) or (II):

z

- (CH ₂ ) t ----- CR12 (CH ₂ ) kx

/

C (R ₁₂ ) -CH ₂ - - (CH ₂ ) t ---- CR12 (CH ₂ ) k ^X CíR) CH (I)

HC ² \ _R / ^R 10

Z N +

THE,

CH ₂ y (II)

HC ² \

CH, z ²

N

I ^R 10 in which:

- k and t are equal to 0 or 1, with the sum k + t being equal to 1;

- R12 designates a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

- R10 and R11, independently of each other, designate an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group

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18/30 in which the alkyl group contains 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a C1-C4 amidoalkyl group; or even R10 and R11 may designate, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; R10 and R11, independently of each other, preferably designate an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

- Y ^- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.

[067] Particular mention can be made of the dimethyldiallylammonium salt homopolymer (chloride, for example) sold under the name Merquat 100 by Nalco (and its low average molar mass counterparts by weight) and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and acrylamide, sold, in particular, under the names Merquat 550 and Merquat 7SPR.

(8) Quaternary diamonium polymers comprising repeat units of formula:

^R 13 R15

--- N + -A, -N ^ B, - (III)

I ¹ I ¹ R ₁₄ ^{X- R} 16 ^X- [068] in which:

- R13, R14, R15 and R16, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arialiphatic radicals comprising 1 to 20 carbon atoms, or lower hydroxyaliphatic radicals, or else R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, they form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocycles that optionally comprise a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or R13, R14, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical

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19/30 replaced by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CONH-R17-D group in which R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;

- A1 and B1 represent divalent polymethylene groups that comprise from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which can contain, linked or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic cycles or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureide, amide or ester groups, and

- X ^- designates an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;

it should be clear that A1, R13 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine cycle;

furthermore, if A1 designates a branched, saturated or unsaturated linear alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 may also designate to denote a (CH2) n-CO-D-OC- (CH2) n- group in which D designates:

a) a remainder of glycol of the formula -O-Z-O-, where Z designates a straight or branched hydrocarbon radical, or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas - (CH2-CH2-O) x-CH2-CH2-; - [CH2-CH (CH3) -O] y-CH2CH (CH3) -, in which x and y designate an integer from 1 to 4, which represents a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 which represents a medium degree of polymerization;

b) a remainder of b-secondary diamine such as a piperazine derivative;

c) a remainder of bis-primary diamine of the formula: -NH-Y-NH-, in which Y designates a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-;

d) a ureylene group of the formula: -NH-CO-NH-.

[069] Preferably, X ^- is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have an average molar mass in number (Mn)

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20/30 generally between 1000 and 100 000.

[070] Polymers that are composed of repeating units that correspond to the formula can also be mentioned more particularly:

^R 1R3 ^{N lCH} ) N CH) (IV) 'v' X

R. ^XR in which R1, R2, R3 and R4, which can be identical or different designate an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, nep are integers ranging from approximately 2 to 20, and X ^- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

[071] A particularly preferred compound of formula (IV) is one for which R1, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical en = 3, p = 6 and X = Cl, known as “Hexadimetrine chloride” according to INCI nomenclature (CTFA).

(9) Quaternary polyammonium polymers comprising units of formula (V):

R <.R

I ^18r - N + - (CHUN ^ C ^ (CHJ - CO - NH (CHA - N + - A - X_ ^{2 r 2 q2 s R} 19 (V) _χ _ ^R 21 [072] in which:

_ R18, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β_hydroxyethyl, β_hydroxypropyl or CH2CH2 (OCH2CH2) pOH radical, where p is equal to 0 to or one integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that R18, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,

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21/30

- r and s, which can be identical or different, are whole numbers between 1 and 6,

- q is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 34,

- X- designates an anion such as halide,

- A designates a dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.

Examples that can be cited include Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD1, Mirapol®AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by Miranol.

(10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, such as products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by BASF.

(11) Polyamines such as Polyquart ^® H sold by Cognis, referred to by the name "Polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine" in the CTFA dictionary.

(12) Polymers that comprise in their structure:

(a) one or more units that correspond to the following formula (A):

—CH — CH— ² I nh ₂ ^(A) (b) optionally, one or more units corresponding to the following formula (B):

—CH — CH— ² | (B)

NH — C-H

II

[073] In other words, these polymers can be chosen, in particular, from homopolymers or copolymers that comprise one or more vinylamine-derived units and optionally one or more vinylformamide-derived units.

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22/30 [074] Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers that comprise, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units that correspond to the formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B), preferably 10 mol% to 100 mol% units corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 90 mol% units corresponding to formula (B).

[075] These polymers can be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis can be carried out in an acidic or basic medium.

[076] The average molecular weight by weight of said polymer, measured by scattering light, can vary from 1000 to 3 000 000 g / mol, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 g / mol and more particularly from 100 000 to 500,000 g / mol.

[077] The density of the cationic charge of these polymers can vary from 2 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably from 2.5 to 15 meq / g and more particularly from 3.5 to 10 meq / g.

[078] Polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are sold, in particular under the name Lupamin by BASF, such as, but not limited to, products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.

[079] Other cationic polymers that can be used in the context of the present invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers comprising vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and epichlorohydridine, quaternary polyurylenes and derivatives chitin.

[080] Preferably, cationic polymers are chosen from

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23/30 from the polymers of the families (1), (2), (7) and (10) mentioned above.

[081] Among the cationic polymers mentioned above, those that can be used preferably are cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums, and in particular derivatives of quaternary cellulose ether such as products sold under the name “ JR 400 ”by Amerchol, cationic cyclopolymers, in particular dimethyldiallylammonium homopolymers or copolymers (eg chloride), products sold under the names Merquat 100, Merquat 550 and Merquat S by Nalco, and their low weight counterparts molecular weight, quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, salts of optionally crosslinked methacryloyloxy (C1-C4) trialkyl (C1-C4) ammonium, homopolymers or copolymers and mixtures thereof.

[082] It is also possible to use amphoteric polymers, which can be chosen, preferably, from amphoteric polymers that comprise a repetition of:

(i) one or more units derived from a (meth) acrylamide type monomer, (ii) one or more units derived from a (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium monomer, and (iii) one or more units derived from an acid monomer (met) acrylic acid type.

[083] Preferably, units derived from a (meth) acrylamide (i) monomer are structure units (Ia) as follows:

ch ₂ (Ia)

^ R ₂ [084] in which R1 designates H or cH3 and R2 is chosen from an amino, dimethylamino, tert-butylamino, dodecylamino or -NH-cH2OH radical.

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[085] Preferably, said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of only one unit of formula (Ia).

[086] The unit derived from a (meth) acrylamide type monomer of formula (Ia) in which R1 designates H and R2 is an amino radical (NH2) is particularly preferred. It corresponds to the acrylamide monomer itself.

[087] Preferably, units derived from a (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium monomer (ii) are structure units (IIa):

^R 3

CH ₂ (IIa)

^R 6 ^R 7 [088] in which:

- R3 designates H or CH3,

- R4 designates the group (CH2) k with k being an integer ranging from 1 to 6 and preferably from 2 to 4;

- R5, R6, and R7, which may be identical or different, each designate an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

- Y ^- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.

[089] Preferably, said amphoteric polymer comprises the repetition of only one unit of formula (IIa).

[090] Among these units derived from a (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialalkylammonium monomer of formula (lla), those that are preferred are those derived from the methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride monomer, for which R3 designates a methyl radical, k is equal to 3, R5, R6 and R7 designate a

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25/30 methyl radical, and Y ^- designates a chloride anion.

[091] Preferably, the units derived from a (meth) acrylic acid (iii) monomer are units of formula (IIIa):

CH7 ^R 8 (IIIa) in which R8 designates H or CH3 and R9 designates a hydroxyl radical or a -NH-C (CH3) 2-CH2-SO3H radical.

[092] The preferred units of formula (IIIa) correspond to the monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and 2 -acrylamino-2methylpropanesulfonic acid.

[093] Preferably, the derivative unit a (meth) acrylic acid type monomer of formula (IIIa) is that derived from acrylic acid, for which R8 designates a hydrogen atom and R9 designates a hydroxyl radical.

[094] The acidic monomer (s) of the (meth) acrylic acid type can be non-neutralized or partially or totally neutralized with an organic or mineral base.

[095] Preferably, said amphoteric polymer comprises repeating a unit of formula (IIIa).

[096] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the amphoteric polymers or polymers of this type comprise at least 30 mol% of units derived from a (meth) acrylamide (i) monomer. Preferably, they comprise from 30 mol to 70 mol% and more preferably from 40 mol to 60 mol% of units derived from a (meth) acrylamide type monomer.

[097] The content of units derived from a (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium (ii) monomer can advantageously vary from 10 mol to 60 mol% and preferably from 20 mol to 55 mol%.

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26/30 [098] The content of units derived from an acid monomer of the (meth) acrylic acid type (iii) can advantageously vary from 1 mol% to 20 mol% and preferably from 5 mol% to 15 mol%.

[099] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, such an amphoteric polymer comprises:

- from 30 mol% to 70 mol% and more preferably from 40 mol% to 60 mol% of units derived from a (meth) acrylamide (i) monomer,

- 10 mol% to 60 mol% and preferably 20 mol% to 55 mol% of units derived from a (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium (ii) monomer, and

- from 1 mol% to 20 mol% and preferably from 5 mol% to 15 mol% of units derived from a (meth) acrylic acid (iii) monomer.

[0100] Amphoteric polymers of this type may also comprise additional units, other than units derived from a (meth) acrylamide type, (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and (meth) acrylic type as described above.

[0101] However, according to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, said amphoteric polymer consists solely of units derived from (i) (meth) acrylamide type, (ii) (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (iii) ) of the (met) acrylic acid type.

[0102] As examples of amphoteric polymers that are particularly preferred, acrylamide / methylacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium / acrylic acid terpolymers can be cited. Such polymers are listed in the CTFA dictionary "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary", ^10-2004 edition, named "Polyquaternium 53". Corresponding products are sold, in particular. such as Merquat 2003 and Merquat 2003 PR by Nalco.

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27/30 [0103] As another type of amphoteric polymer, copolymers based on (meth) acrylic acid and a dialkyldiallylammonium salt, such as (meth) acrylic acid and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride copolymers can also be used. An example that can be cited is the Merquat 280 sold by Nalco.

[0104] The composition according to the present invention can comprise the cationic and / or amphoteric polymers in an amount between 0.01% and 5% by weight, especially from 0.05% to 3% by weight and, preferably, from 0.1% to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0105] The composition according to the present invention can be supplied in any conventionally used galenic form and, in particular, in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or hydroalcoholic solution or suspension or oily solution or suspension; a lotion or serum type dispersion; an emulsion, in particular that has a liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the O / A, A / O or multiple type; an aqueous or anhydrous gel, or any other cosmetic form.

[0106] The composition according to the present invention can be aqueous or anhydrous. It is preferably aqueous and therefore comprises water in a concentration which preferably ranges from 5% to 98% by weight, especially from 20% to 98% by weight and more preferably from 50% to 95% by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.

[0107] The composition may also comprise one or more organic solvents that are liquid at 25 ° C and 1 atm, in particular water-soluble solvents, such as C1-C7 alcohols; in particular, C1-C7 aliphatic or aromatic monoalcohols, C3C7 polyols or C3-C7 polyol ethers, which can be used alone or in a mixture with water, can be mentioned. Advantageously, the organic solvent can be chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, hexylene glycol and

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28/30 glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

[0108] The pH of the composition, if it is aqueous, can be between 3 and 9 and, preferably, between 4 and 7.

[0109] The composition according to the present invention can also comprise at least one or more common cosmetic ingredients chosen, in particular, among the propellants; cationic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants; thickeners, gelling agents; liquid fatty substances, solid fatty substances; sunscreens; moisturizers; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; chelating agents; reducing agents; oxidation bases, couplers, oxidizing agents, direct dyes; the relaxing ones; nacreous agents and opacifiers; micas, mother-of-pearls, sequins; plasticizers or coalescents; hydroxy acids; pigments; the loads; silicones and, in particular, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); perfumes; alkalizing or acidifying agents; silanes; cross-linking agents such as polyphenols or aldehydes. The person skilled in the art will take great care in choosing the ingredients included in the composition and their amounts so as not to impair the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

[0110] The composition according to the present invention finds a particularly advantageous application in the hair sector, especially for the care, cleaning and / or conditioning of the hair or scalp. Hair compositions are preferably shampoos, hair conditioners, hair or care gels, care lotions or creams, conditioners, masks, serums, lotions or shampoos to combat hair loss, antiparasitic shampoos, anti-dandruff lotions or shampoos, or shampoos to treat seborrhea. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is a shampoo.

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29/30 [0111] The composition according to the present invention can be conditioned in a tube, in a bottle optionally equipped with a pump, or in an aerosol. In the case of an aerosol, the composition may then contain one or more standard (common) propellants.

[0112] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention is in the form of a capillary composition for cleaning the hair; preferably, the composition according to the present invention is a shampoo.

[0113] The composition may or may not be rinsed after being applied to keratin materials (hair and / or scalp), preferably rinsed. Thus, it is optionally possible to perform a rinse, for example with water, after an optional pause time. Preferably, it is rinsed after an optional break time.

[0114] An object of the present invention is also a treatment process, especially for the care, cleaning and / or conditioning of keratin materials, especially the hair and / or scalp, which comprises the application on said materials of a composition according to the present invention, optionally followed by rinsing, after an optional pause time.

[0115] It is, in particular, a hair treatment process, to care for, treat cosmetically and / or clean hair and / or scalp, in particular curly hair.

[0116] It is optionally possible to perform a rinse, for example with water, after an optional pause time.

[0117] The present invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples (% MA = percentage of active matter in the composition).

Example [0118] A capillary composition for cleaning hair is

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Prepared 30/30, which comprises (in% of active ingredient):

Carbomer 0.196 Polyquaternium-10 0.48 Sodium benzoate 0.5 Salicylic acid 0.2 Sodium Laureth Sulfossuccinate 3.6 Sodium Lauroil Sarcosinate 1.2 Betaine Cetyl 1.2 Lauryl Betaine 0.45 Cocobetaine 3.6 perfume 0.7 PEG-150 Diestearate 1 Propylene Glycol (50) PEG55 Propylene Glycol Oleate (50) 0.4 Sodium Chloride 1.14 PH Agent Qs pH 5.3 Water Qsp 100

[0119] This composition is able to quickly generate an abundant, dense, creamy foam on the hair that rinses easily.

[0120] This composition used as a shampoo gives the hair a natural and clean touch after removal; it is particularly suitable for curly hair, and allows you to obtain shiny, flexible curls.

Claims (13)

Claims 1. COMPOSITION, for the care, cleaning and / or conditioning of keratin materials, especially hair and / or scalp, characterized by comprising: - from 2% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, one or more anionic surfactants chosen from the anionic surfactants sulfonate and carboxylate, and - an amphoteric surfactant comprising cetyl betaine, and additionally other alkyl betaine, in which the weight ratio cetyl betaine / other alkyl betaine is greater than 0.15, where: - the sulfonate surfactant (s) are chosen from the (C6C24) alkyl sulfosuccinates and (C6-C24) alkyl sulfosuccinates which comprise 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units; these compounds can be in the form of salts of alkali metals, ammonium, amino alcohol or alkaline earth metals; or a mixture of these compounds; - the carboxylate surfactants (s) are chosen from the acyl (C14C30) sarcosinates; and - the composition is free of any sulfated anionic surfactants. 2. COMPOSITION, according to claim 1, characterized by comprising said anionic surfactant (s) in an amount ranging from 2% to 5% by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition. COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that it comprises at least one anionic sulfonate surfactant and at least one anionic carboxylate surfactant. 4. COMPOSITION, according to any of the Petition 870190061746, of 7/2/2019, p. 38/79 2/4 claims 1 to 3, characterized by the cetyl betaine (s) corresponding to the following formula: CH, R — N-CH ₂ COOch ₃ in which R is a linear alkyl radical comprising 16 carbon atoms. COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it comprises said cetyl betaine in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight , in relation to the total weight of the composition. 6. COMPOSITION according to claim 1, characterized in that the weight ratio of cetyl betaine / other alkylbetaines is greater than 0.2, preferably greater than 0.25. COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it also comprises one or more diesters of polyethylene glycol fatty acids comprising 10 to 500 oxyethylene units, which preferably correspond to the formula (A) below : O II R — c- (A) in which: - R and R 'which may be identical or different designate a straight or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain, comprising from 7 to 29 carbon atoms; preferably, R designates a straight or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain comprising 11 to 23 carbon atoms, more preferably 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and comprising Petition 870190061746, of 7/2/2019, p. 39/79 3/4 preferably 17 carbon atoms; preferably, R 'designates a straight or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain comprising from 11 to 23 carbon atoms, more preferably from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and preferably from 17 carbon atoms; preferably, R and R 'are identical; and - n designates an integer ranging from 10 to 500, preferably ranging from 20 to 400, especially from 50 to 300 or even from 100 to 200. COMPOSITION according to claim 7, characterized in that it comprises the polyester ethylene glycol fatty acid diester (s) in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 % to 8% by weight and preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it also comprises one or more polymers, preferably chosen from cationic or amphoteric polymers, and also mixtures thereof. 10. COMPOSITION, according to claim 9, characterized in that it comprises cationic polymer (s) and / or amphoteric (s) in an amount between 0.01% and 5% by weight, especially from 0.05% to 3% by weight and preferably 0.1% to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it is in aqueous form, and which comprises water in a concentration that preferably ranges from 5% to 98% by weight, especially from 20% to 98 % by weight and more preferably from 50% to 95% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Petition 870190061746, of 7/2/2019, p. 40/79 ΑΙΑ 12. PARTICULAR PROCESS FOR THE CARE, CLEANING AND / OR CONDITIONING OF THE KERATIN MATTERS, especially the hair and / or the scalp, characterized by understanding the application on said materials of a composition, as defined in any of the claims 1 to 11, optionally followed by rinsing, after an additional pause time. 13. PROCESS according to claim 12, characterized in that it is for hair treatment, for the care, cosmetic treatment and / or cleaning of hair and / or scalp, in particular curly hair.