WO2015013781A1 - Composition comprising particular anionic surfactant, a particular amphoteric surfactant and a diester of polyethylene glycol, and treatment process - Google Patents

Composition comprising particular anionic surfactant, a particular amphoteric surfactant and a diester of polyethylene glycol, and treatment process Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2015013781A1
WO2015013781A1 PCT/BR2013/000299 BR2013000299W WO2015013781A1 WO 2015013781 A1 WO2015013781 A1 WO 2015013781A1 BR 2013000299 W BR2013000299 W BR 2013000299W WO 2015013781 A1 WO2015013781 A1 WO 2015013781A1
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composition
weight
alkyl
carbon atoms
preferentially
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PCT/BR2013/000299
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French (fr)
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Pedro M. APRIGLIANO FERNANDES
Danielle PANTOJA
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L'oreal
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Priority to BR112015032449-5A priority patent/BR112015032449B1/en
Publication of WO2015013781A1 publication Critical patent/WO2015013781A1/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86Polyethers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02Preparations for cleaning the hair

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to compositions, especially hair compositions, comprising a combination of at least one particular anionic surfactants, and of at least one particular amphoteric surfactant and of at least one particular ester, and also to a treatment process using the said composition.
  • These compositions are more particularly intended for washing keratin materials, especially the hair.
  • Hair has a tendency to lose some of its qualities under the action of factors especially such as natural regreasing, sweat, the removal of squamae, pollution or humidity. The visual appearance and the feel of the hair can thus be damaged. Regreasing, for example, makes the hair lank, which then has a tendency to clump together. The hair may be increasingly difficult to style, and shows an unpleasant greasy sheen or has an unpleasant waxy feel.
  • shampoos which are generally aqueous compositions containing large amounts of surfactants, generally anionic surfactants, mainly of sulfate type, alone or in combination with amphoteric and/or nonionic surfactants.
  • shampoos may cause discomfort such as stinging of the scalp or of the eyes when they come into contact with the shampoo.
  • these surfactants may impair the cosmetic properties of the hair, thus leading to the need also to use conditioning agents such as cationic polymers, silicones or non-silicone oils.
  • conditioning agents such as cationic polymers, silicones or non-silicone oils.
  • the rinsing of cosmetic compositions with a high content of surfactants may often be long.
  • shampoos should generally be thickened; but their thickening may pose problems of stability of the composition.
  • Consumers are constantly in search of cosmetic compositions, especially for washing keratin materials, which make it possible to obtain detergency similar to that obtained with a standard shampoo, for example based on sulfate-type surfactant, but without using such a type of surfactant; consumers are also in search of a composition that is capable of generating an abundant, creamy foam, which rinses out easily, thus making it possible to avoid using excessive amounts of water.
  • the aim of the present invention is to propose such a composition, which is capable rapidly of generating an abundant, dense, creamy foam, which rinses out easily.
  • composition comprising:
  • anionic surfactants selected from sulfonate and carboxylate anionic surfactants
  • amphoteric surfactants selected from betaines
  • - one or more fatty acid diester(s) of polyethylene glycol comprising 10 to 500 oxyethylene units.
  • composition according to the invention is easy to dispense and to spread onto a head of hair.
  • composition according to the invention gives the hair satisfactory cosmetic properties, most particularly improved conditioning properties, especially in terms of softness, suppleness, smoothness and disentangling; the sheen of the head of hair is also improved.
  • composition according to the invention gives keratin materials a natural and clean feel after removal; it is particularly suitable for curly hair, and makes it possible to obtain shiny, supple curls.
  • the composition according to the invention is non- colouring.
  • non-colouring composition means a composition not containing any dye for keratin fibres such as direct dyes or oxidation dye precursors (bases and/or couplers). If they are present, their content does not exceed 0.005% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Specifically, at such a content, only the composition would be dyed, i.e. no dyeing effect would be observed on the keratin fibres.
  • the term "at least one” is equivalent to the term “one or more” and may be replaced therewith; the term “between” is equivalent to the term “ranging from” and may be replaced therewith, which implies that the limits are included.
  • composition according to the invention thus comprises one or more anionic surfactants selected from sulfonate and carboxylate anionic surfactants.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise one or more anionic sulfonate anionic surfactants.
  • sulfonate anionic surfactant means an anionic surfactant comprising one or more sulfonate functions (-S0 3 H or -SO 3 ⁇ ) and which may optionally also comprise one or more carboxylic or carboxylate functions (-COOH or -COO " ).
  • alkyl sulfoacetates alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, a-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, acyl isethionates and N-acyltaurates, and also the corresponding salified forms, the alkyl and acyl groups preferably comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
  • the anionic surfactants when they are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salts.
  • alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salts.
  • amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
  • (C6- C24)acylisethionates, (C6-C24)alkyl sulfosuccinates and (C6-C24)alkyl ether sulfosucci nates comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units are most particularly preferred; these compounds may be in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol or alkaline-earth metal salts; or a mixture of these compounds.
  • (C12-C20)acylisethionates, (C12-C20)alkyl sulfosuccinates and (C12-C20)alkyl ether sulfosuccinates comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, especially in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline-earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds, are preferred.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise one or more carboxylate anionic surfactants.
  • carboxylate anionic surfactant means an anionic surfactant comprising one or more carboxylic or carboxylate functions (-COOH or -COO " ), and not comprising any sulfonate functions (-SO 3 H or -SO 3 ⁇ ). They may be chosen advantageously from acylglycinates, acylsarcosinates, acyllactylates and acylglutamates, the acyl groups preferably comprising from 14 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; and also the corresponding salified forms. These compounds may be optionally oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
  • alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside- polycarboxylic acids such as alkyl glucoside citrates and alkyl polyglycoside tartrates, the alkyl group comprising from 14 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 6 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids and salts thereof Mention may also be made of alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids and salts thereof and also polyoxyalkylenated (C14-30)alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C14-30)alkyl(C6-30)aryl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C14-30)alkylamido ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof.
  • polyoxyalkylenated (C14-30)alkyl ether carboxylic acids polyoxyalkylenated (C14-30)alkyl(C6-30)aryl ether carboxylic acids
  • polyoxyalkylenated (C14-30)alkylamido ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof.
  • Salts that may be mentioned in particular include alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts, for example magnesium salts.
  • alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts, for example magnesium salts.
  • Amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
  • Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
  • the carboxylate anionic surfactants are chosen from (C14-C30)acylglutamates and in particular stearoylglutamates, lauroylglutamates and cocoylglutamates; (C14-C30)acylsarcosinates and in particular palmitoylsarcosinates, stearoylsarcosinates, lauroylsarcosinates and cocoylsarcosinates; (C14-C30)acyllactylates and in particular behenoyllactylates, lauroyllactylates and (iso)stearoyllactylates; alkyl ether carboxylates and in particular lauryl ether carboxylates; and mixtures thereof, in particular in the form of alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal, ammonium, amine or amino alcohol salts.
  • composition according to the invention preferably comprises the said anionic surfactant(s) in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 % to .12% by weight, better still from 2% to 10% by weight and preferentially from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises at least one sulfonate anionic surfactant and at least one carboxylate anionic surfactant.
  • the composition does not comprise any sulfate anionic surfactants.
  • does not comprise any sulfate anionic surfactants it means that the composition comprises less than 1 % by weight, or even 0% by weight of sulfate anionic surfactants.
  • composition according to the invention also comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants chose from betaines.
  • amphoteric surfactants are chosen from (C8- C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C1 -C6)alkylbetaines and mixtures thereof, and even more particularly from (C8-C20)alkylbetaines.
  • composition of the invention comprises at least one betaine selected from cetyl betaine, lauryl betaine and cocobetaine.
  • composition of the invention comprises cetylbetaine.
  • cetylbetaine which can be used in the composition of the invention, we can mention the product sold under the reference DETAINE PB by DEFOREST ENTREPRISE and the product sold under the reference AMPHOSOL CDB SPECIAL by STEPAN, the last one being a mixture of cetyl betaine and of lauryl betaine.
  • composition according to the invention preferably comprises the said amphoteric surfactant(s) selected from betaines in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight and preferentially from 1 % to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the ponderal ratio cetyl betaine/other alkylbetaines is greater than 0, 15, more preferably more than 0,2, even more preferably greater than 0,25.
  • composition according to the invention may also optionally comprise one or more additional amphoteric surfactants, other than betaines.
  • R a represents a Cio-C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R a -COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl group, a nonyl group or an undecyl group,
  • R b represents a ⁇ -hydroxyethyl group
  • R c represents a carboxymethyl group
  • n 0, 1 or 2
  • Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group
  • B represents -CH 2 CH 2 OX', with X' representing -CH 2 -COOH, CH 2 -COOZ',
  • n 1 or 2
  • Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group
  • Z' represents an ion resulting from an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion resulting from an organic amine and in particular from an amino alcohol, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2- methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane,
  • an alkali or alkaline-earth metal such as sodium, potassium or magnesium
  • an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine and in particular from an amino alcohol, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2- methyl-1-propanol, 2-
  • Ra' represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R a COOH preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C-17 alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C 17 group.
  • the compounds corresponding to formula (A2) are preferred. These compounds are also classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoampho- dipropionic acid.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate or under the trade name Miranol Ultra C 32 and the product sold by the company Chimex under the trade name Chimexane HA.
  • R a represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R a "-C(O)OH preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil;
  • - Y represents the group -C(0)OH, -C(O)OZ", -CH 2 -CH(OH)-S0 3 H or the group
  • Z representing a cationic counterion resulting from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine;
  • R d and R e represent, independently of each other, a C C 4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical
  • n and n' denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3. Mention may in particular be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and sold by the company Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.
  • the additional amphoteric surfactants are chosen from (C8-C20)alkyl amphodiacetates.
  • composition according to the invention may preferably comprise the said additional amphoteric surfactant(s) in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight and preferentially from 1 % to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention also comprises one or more fatty acid diesters of polyethylene glycol comprising 10 to 500 oxyethylene units.
  • the fatty acid diesters of polyethylene glycol that may be used according to the invention advantageously have the formula (A) below:
  • R and R' which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain, comprising from 7 to 29 carbon atoms;
  • - n denotes an integer ranging from 10 to 500.
  • R denotes a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain comprising from 1 to 23 carbon atoms, better still from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and preferentially comprising 17 carbon atoms.
  • R' denotes a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain comprising from 1 1 to 23 carbon atoms, better still from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and preferentially comprising 17 carbon atoms.
  • R and R' are identical.
  • n denotes an integer ranging from 20 to 400, especially from 50 to 300 or even from 100 to 200.
  • the said diester is a polyethylene glycol distearate comprising from 10 to 500, preferably from 20 to 400, preferentially from 50 to 300 and better still from 100 to 200 oxyethylene units.
  • composition according to the invention preferably comprises the said fatty acid diester(s) of polyethylene glycol in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 8% by weight and preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more polymers, preferably chosen from amphoteric or cationic polymers, and also mixtures thereof.
  • cationic polymer means any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to cationic groups.
  • the cationic polymer is hydrophilic or amphiphilic.
  • the preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those that contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups that may either form part of the main polymer chain or may be borne by a side substituent directly connected thereto.
  • the cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5> ⁇ 10 6 approximately and preferably between 10 3 and 3x10 6 approximately.
  • cationic polymers mention may be made more particularly of:
  • R3 which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH 3 radical
  • - A which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • R4, R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
  • R1 and R2 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;
  • - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
  • the copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers that may be selected from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (CrC 4 ) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
  • comonomers may be selected from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (CrC 4 ) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
  • dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,
  • crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C 4 )alkyltri(Ci- C 4 )alkylammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, more particularly methylenebisacrylamide.
  • a crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of the said copolymer in mineral oil may be used more particularly.
  • This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba.
  • a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer containing about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester can also be used.
  • These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba.
  • Cationic polysaccharides especially cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums.
  • cationic polysaccharides mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
  • the cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are especially described in French patent 1 492 597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer "JR" (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or "LR” (LR 400 or LR 30M) by the company Amerchol. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.
  • Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described especially in US patent 4 131 576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, in particular, with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.
  • the commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.
  • guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups.
  • Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example, chloride).
  • a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt for example, chloride.
  • Such products are especially sold under the names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 or Jaguar C162 by the company Rhodia.
  • Water-soluble polyamino amides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyamino amides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis- halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyamino amide; these poly
  • Polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with bifunctional agents Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl.
  • the alkyl radical comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl.
  • Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or alternatively under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine copolymer.
  • Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium such as the homopolymers or copolymers containing, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (I) or (II):
  • R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
  • R10 and R11 independently of each other, denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyi group in which the alkyl group contains 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a C1-C4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively R10 and R11 may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R10 and R11 , independently of each other, preferably denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • - Y " is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
  • R13, R14, R15 and R16 which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or else R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second non-nitrogen heteroatom, or else R13, R14, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C C 6 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-0-R17-D or - CO-NH-R17-D group in which R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
  • A1 and B1 represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
  • A1 , R 3 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;
  • A1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical
  • B1 may also denote a group (CH2) n -CO-D- OC-(CH 2 ) n - in which D denotes:
  • a glycol residue of formula -O-Z-0- in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH 2 -CH2-0) X -CH 2 -CH2- and -[CH2-CH(CH 3 )-O]y-CH 2 - CH(CH 3 )-, where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;
  • a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative
  • X " is an anion such as chloride or bromide.
  • Mn number-average molar mass
  • CTR C NCI
  • R19, R20 and R21 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, ⁇ -hydroxyethyl, ⁇ -hydroxypropyl or -CH 2 CH 2 (OCH 2 CH 2 ) p OH group, in which p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that R18, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
  • - r and s which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
  • X- denotes an anion such as a halide
  • - A denotes a dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH 2 -CH2-O-CH 2 -CH2-.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include the products irapol® A15, Mirapol® AD1 , Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol.
  • Polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by Cognis, referred to under the name Polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine in the CTFA dictionary.
  • these polymers may be chosen especially from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.
  • these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B), preferentially from 0 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B).
  • These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis may be performed in an acidic or basic medium.
  • the weight-average molecular mass of the said polymer measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 g/mol and more particularly from 100 000 to 500 000 g/mol.
  • the cationic charge density of these polymers may range from 2 meq/g to 20 meq/g, preferably from 2.5 to 15 meq/g and more particularly from 3.5 to 10 meq/g.
  • the polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are sold especially under the name Lupamin by the company BASF, for instance, and in a non-limiting manner, the products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.
  • cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers comprising vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.
  • the cationic polymers are chosen from the polymers of families (1), (2), (7) and ( 0) mentioned above.
  • cationic polysaccharides especially cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums, and in particular quaternary cellulose ether derivatives such as the products sold under the name "JR 400" by the company Amerchol
  • cationic cyclopolymers in particular dimethyldiallylammonium salt (for example chloride) homopolymers or copolymers, sold under the names Merquat 100, Merquat 550 and Merquat S by the company Nalco, and homologues thereof of low weight-average molecular weights
  • quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole optionally crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C 4 )alkyltri(Ci-C4)alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • amphoteric polymers which may preferably be chosen from amphoteric polymers comprising a repetition of:
  • the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i) are units of structure (la) below:
  • Ri denotes H or CH 3 and R 2 is chosen from an amino, dimethylamino, tert-butylamino, dodecylamino or -NH-CH 2 OH radical.
  • the said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of only one unit of formula (la).
  • the unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type of formula (la) in which Ri denotes H and R 2 is an amino radical (NH 2 ) is particularly preferred. It corresponds to the acrylamide monomer per se.
  • the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) are units of structure (lla) below:
  • R 3 denotes H or CH 3 ,
  • - R denotes a group (CH 2 )k with k being an integer ranging from 1 to 6 and preferably from 2 to 4;
  • R 5 , R 6 and R7 which may be identical or different, each denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • - Y " is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
  • the said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of only one unit of formula (lla).
  • the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) are units of formula (Ilia):
  • the preferred units of formula (Ilia) correspond to the acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and 2-acrylamino-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomers.
  • the unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type of formula (Ilia) is that derived from acrylic acid, for which R 8 denotes a hydrogen atom and Rg denotes a hydroxyl radical.
  • the acidic monomer(s) of (meth)acrylic acid type may be non- neutralized or partially or totally neutralized with an organic or mineral base.
  • the said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of only one unit of formula (Ilia).
  • the amphoteric polymer(s) of this type comprise at least 30 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i). Preferably, they comprise from 30 mol% to 70 mol% and more preferably from 40 mol% to 60 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type.
  • the content of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) may advantageously be from 10 mol% to 60 mol% and preferentially from 20 mol% to 55 mol%.
  • the content of units derived from an acidic monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) may advantageously be from 1 mol% to 20 mol% and preferentially from 5 mol% to 15 mol%.
  • the amphoteric polymer of this type comprises: - from 30 mol% to 70 mol% and more preferably from 40 mol% to 60 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i),
  • Amphoteric polymers of this type may also comprise additional units, other than the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type, of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and of (meth)acrylic acid type as described above.
  • the said amphoteric polymers consist solely of units derived from monomers (i) of (meth)acrylamide type, (ii) of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and (iii) of (meth)acrylic acid type.
  • amphoteric polymers that are particularly preferred, mention may be made of acrylamide/methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid terpolymers. Such polymers are listed in the CTFA dictionary. International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 10th edition 2004, under the name Polyquaternium 53. Corresponding products are especially sold under the names Merquat 2003 and Merquat 2003 PR by the company Nalco.
  • amphoteric polymer As another type of amphoteric polymer that may be used, mention may also be made of copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and on a dialkyldiallylammonium salt, such as copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride.
  • copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and on a dialkyldiallylammonium salt such as copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride.
  • An example that may be mentioned is Merquat 280 sold by the company Nalco.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise the cationic and/or amphoteric polymers in an amount of between 0.01 % and 5% by weight, especially from 0.05% to 3% by weight and preferentially from 0.1 % to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may be provided in any galenical form conventionally used and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution or suspension or oily solution or suspension; of a dispersion of the lotion or serum type; of an emulsion, in particular having a liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the O/W, W/O or multiple type; of an aqueous or anhydrous gel, or of any other cosmetic form.
  • the composition according to the invention may be aqueous or anhydrous. It is preferably aqueous and then comprises water at a concentration preferably ranging from 5% to 98% by weight, especially from 20% to 98% by weight and better still from 50% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition can also comprise one or more organic solvents which are liquid at 25°C and 1 atm, in particular water-soluble solvents, such as C1-C7 alcohols; mention may in particular be made of aliphatic or aromatic Ci- C 7 monoalcohols, C3-C7 polyols or C3-C 7 polyol ethers, which can thus be employed alone or as a mixture with water.
  • the organic solvent may be chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, hexyleneglycol and glycerol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the pH of the composition if it is aqueous, may be between 3 and 9 and preferentially between 4 and 7.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one or more common cosmetic ingredients chosen especially from propellants; cationic surfactants, nonionic surfactants; thickeners, gelling agents; liquid fatty substances, solid fatty substances; sunscreens; moisturizers; antidandruff agents; antioxidants; chelating agents; reducing agents; oxidation bases, couplers, oxidizing agents, direct dyes; relaxants; nacreous agents and opacifiers; micas, nacres, glitter flakes; plasticizers or coalescers; hydroxy acids; pigments; fillers; silicones and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); fragrances; basifying or acidifying agents; silanes; crosslinking agents such as polyphenols or aldehydes.
  • PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
  • the composition according to the invention especially finds a particularly advantageous application in the hair sector, especially for caring for, cleansing and/or conditioning the hair or the scalp.
  • the hair compositions are preferably shampoos, hair conditioners, styling or care gels, care lotions or creams, conditioners, masks, sera, lotions or shampoos for combating hair loss, antiparasitic shampoos, antidandruff lotions or shampoos, or shampoos for treating seborrhoea.
  • composition according to the invention is a shampoo.
  • composition according to the invention may be conditioned in a tube, in a bottle optionally equipped with a pump, or alternatively in an aerosol.
  • the composition may then contain one or more standard propellants.
  • the composition according to the invention is in the form of a hair composition for cleansing the hair; preferentially, the composition according to the invention is a shampoo.
  • the composition may or may not be rinsed out after having been applied to the keratin materials (hair and/or scalp), preferably rinsed out. It is thus optionally possible to perform rinsing, for example with water, after an optional leave-in time. Preferably, it is rinsed out, after an optional leave-in time.
  • a subject of the invention is also a treatment process, especially for caring for, cleansing and/or conditioning keratin materials, especially the hair and/or the scalp, comprising the application to the said materials of a composition according to the invention, optionally followed by rinsing, after an optional leave-in time.
  • hair treatment process for caring for, cosmetically treating and/or cleansing the hair and/or the scalp, in particular curly hair.
  • a hair composition for cleansing the hair is prepared, comprising
  • This composition is capable of rapidly generating on hair an abundant, dense, creamy foam, which rinses out easily.
  • This composition used as a shampoo gives on hair a natural and clean feel after removal; it is particularly suitable for curly hair, and makes it possible to obtain shiny, supple curls.

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition comprising one or more anionic surfactants selected from sulfonate and carboxylate anionic surfactants, and amphoteric surfactants selected from betaines and fatty acid diesters of polyethylene glycol comprising 10 to 500 oxyethylene units. The invention also relates to a treatment process, especially for cleansing or conditioning the hair, using this composition.

Description

"COMPOSITION COMPRISING PARTICULAR ANIONIC SURFACTANT, A PARTICULAR AMPHOTERIC SURFACTANT AND A DIESTER OF POLYETHYLENE GLYCOL, AND TREATMENT PROCESS"
The present invention relates to compositions, especially hair compositions, comprising a combination of at least one particular anionic surfactants, and of at least one particular amphoteric surfactant and of at least one particular ester, and also to a treatment process using the said composition. These compositions are more particularly intended for washing keratin materials, especially the hair.
Hair has a tendency to lose some of its qualities under the action of factors especially such as natural regreasing, sweat, the removal of squamae, pollution or humidity. The visual appearance and the feel of the hair can thus be damaged. Regreasing, for example, makes the hair lank, which then has a tendency to clump together. The hair may be increasingly difficult to style, and shows an unpleasant greasy sheen or has an unpleasant waxy feel. It is known practice to cleanse the hair with shampoos, which are generally aqueous compositions containing large amounts of surfactants, generally anionic surfactants, mainly of sulfate type, alone or in combination with amphoteric and/or nonionic surfactants. These shampoos may cause discomfort such as stinging of the scalp or of the eyes when they come into contact with the shampoo. Moreover, gradually in the course of their applications, these surfactants may impair the cosmetic properties of the hair, thus leading to the need also to use conditioning agents such as cationic polymers, silicones or non-silicone oils. In addition, the rinsing of cosmetic compositions with a high content of surfactants may often be long. Finally, to avoid running on application and especially running into the eyes, shampoos should generally be thickened; but their thickening may pose problems of stability of the composition. Consumers are constantly in search of cosmetic compositions, especially for washing keratin materials, which make it possible to obtain detergency similar to that obtained with a standard shampoo, for example based on sulfate-type surfactant, but without using such a type of surfactant; consumers are also in search of a composition that is capable of generating an abundant, creamy foam, which rinses out easily, thus making it possible to avoid using excessive amounts of water.
The aim of the present invention is to propose such a composition, which is capable rapidly of generating an abundant, dense, creamy foam, which rinses out easily.
One subject of the invention is thus a composition comprising:
- one or more anionic surfactants selected from sulfonate and carboxylate anionic surfactants,
- one or more amphoteric surfactants selected from betaines, and
- one or more fatty acid diester(s) of polyethylene glycol comprising 10 to 500 oxyethylene units.
The composition according to the invention is easy to dispense and to spread onto a head of hair.
It has also been found that the composition according to the invention gives the hair satisfactory cosmetic properties, most particularly improved conditioning properties, especially in terms of softness, suppleness, smoothness and disentangling; the sheen of the head of hair is also improved.
The composition according to the invention gives keratin materials a natural and clean feel after removal; it is particularly suitable for curly hair, and makes it possible to obtain shiny, supple curls.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention is non- colouring. According to the present invention, the term "non-colouring composition" means a composition not containing any dye for keratin fibres such as direct dyes or oxidation dye precursors (bases and/or couplers). If they are present, their content does not exceed 0.005% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Specifically, at such a content, only the composition would be dyed, i.e. no dyeing effect would be observed on the keratin fibres.
In the present description, the term "at least one" is equivalent to the term "one or more" and may be replaced therewith; the term "between" is equivalent to the term "ranging from" and may be replaced therewith, which implies that the limits are included.
PARTICULAR ANIONIC SURFACTANT
The composition according to the invention thus comprises one or more anionic surfactants selected from sulfonate and carboxylate anionic surfactants.
Sulfonate anionic surfactant
The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more anionic sulfonate anionic surfactants.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "sulfonate anionic surfactant" means an anionic surfactant comprising one or more sulfonate functions (-S03H or -SO3 ~) and which may optionally also comprise one or more carboxylic or carboxylate functions (-COOH or -COO").
Mention may be made of alkyl sulfoacetates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, a-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, acyl isethionates and N-acyltaurates, and also the corresponding salified forms, the alkyl and acyl groups preferably comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units. When the anionic surfactants are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salts. Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts. Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts, are preferably used.
Among the sulfonate anionic surfactants, (C6- C24)acylisethionates, (C6-C24)alkyl sulfosuccinates and (C6-C24)alkyl ether sulfosucci nates comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units are most particularly preferred; these compounds may be in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol or alkaline-earth metal salts; or a mixture of these compounds.
Better still, (C12-C20)acylisethionates, (C12-C20)alkyl sulfosuccinates and (C12-C20)alkyl ether sulfosuccinates comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, especially in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline-earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds, are preferred.
CARBOXYLATE ANIONIC SURFACTANT
The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more carboxylate anionic surfactants.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "carboxylate anionic surfactant" means an anionic surfactant comprising one or more carboxylic or carboxylate functions (-COOH or -COO"), and not comprising any sulfonate functions (-SO3H or -SO3 ~). They may be chosen advantageously from acylglycinates, acylsarcosinates, acyllactylates and acylglutamates, the acyl groups preferably comprising from 14 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; and also the corresponding salified forms. These compounds may be optionally oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
Use may also be made of alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside- polycarboxylic acids such as alkyl glucoside citrates and alkyl polyglycoside tartrates, the alkyl group comprising from 14 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 6 to 22 carbon atoms.
Mention may also be made of alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids and salts thereof and also polyoxyalkylenated (C14-30)alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C14-30)alkyl(C6-30)aryl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C14-30)alkylamido ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof.
Salts that may be mentioned in particular include alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts, for example magnesium salts.
Amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
Preferentially, the carboxylate anionic surfactants are chosen from (C14-C30)acylglutamates and in particular stearoylglutamates, lauroylglutamates and cocoylglutamates; (C14-C30)acylsarcosinates and in particular palmitoylsarcosinates, stearoylsarcosinates, lauroylsarcosinates and cocoylsarcosinates; (C14-C30)acyllactylates and in particular behenoyllactylates, lauroyllactylates and (iso)stearoyllactylates; alkyl ether carboxylates and in particular lauryl ether carboxylates; and mixtures thereof, in particular in the form of alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal, ammonium, amine or amino alcohol salts.
Mention may be made more particularly of disodium cocoylglutamate and sodium lauroylsarcosinate.
The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the said anionic surfactant(s) in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 % to .12% by weight, better still from 2% to 10% by weight and preferentially from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In a prefered embodiment, the composition comprises at least one sulfonate anionic surfactant and at least one carboxylate anionic surfactant.
In a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition does not comprise any sulfate anionic surfactants. According to the invention, by "does not comprise any sulfate anionic surfactants", it means that the composition comprises less than 1 % by weight, or even 0% by weight of sulfate anionic surfactants.
AMPHOTERIC SURFACTANTS
The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants chose from betaines.
Mention may be made in particular of (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, (C8- C20)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C1-C6)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and (C8-C20)alkylamido(C1-C6)alkylsulfobetaines.
Preferentially, the amphoteric surfactants are chosen from (C8- C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C1 -C6)alkylbetaines and mixtures thereof, and even more particularly from (C8-C20)alkylbetaines.
More preferably, the composition of the invention comprises at least one betaine selected from cetyl betaine, lauryl betaine and cocobetaine.
In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises cetylbetaine.
As cetylbetaine which can be used in the composition of the invention, we can mention the product sold under the reference DETAINE PB by DEFOREST ENTREPRISE and the product sold under the reference AMPHOSOL CDB SPECIAL by STEPAN, the last one being a mixture of cetyl betaine and of lauryl betaine.
The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the said amphoteric surfactant(s) selected from betaines in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight and preferentially from 1 % to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, if they are present, the ponderal ratio cetyl betaine/other alkylbetaines is greater than 0, 15, more preferably more than 0,2, even more preferably greater than 0,25.
The composition according to the invention may also optionally comprise one or more additional amphoteric surfactants, other than betaines.
Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives which can be used, mention may also be made of the products having the respective structures (A1 ) and (A2) below:
(A1 ) Ra-CON(Z)CH2-(CH2)m-N+(Rb)(Rc)(CH2COO-)
in which:
Ra represents a Cio-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid Ra-COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl group, a nonyl group or an undecyl group,
Rb represents a β-hydroxyethyl group,
Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;
m is equal to 0, 1 or 2,
Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group;
Figure imgf000009_0001
in which:
B represents -CH2CH2OX', with X' representing -CH2-COOH, CH2-COOZ',
-CH2CH2-COOH, -CH2CH2-COOZ', or a hydrogen atom,
B' represents -(CH2)Z-Y', with z = 1 or 2, and Y representing -COOH, -COOZ',
-CH2-CHOH-SO3H or -CH2-CHOH-SO3Z';
m' is equal to 0, 1 or 2,
Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group;
Z' represents an ion resulting from an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion resulting from an organic amine and in particular from an amino alcohol, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2- methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane,
Ra' represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid RaCOOH preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C-17 alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 group.
Among these two structures, the compounds corresponding to formula (A2) are preferred. These compounds are also classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoampho- dipropionic acid.
Examples that may be mentioned include the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate or under the trade name Miranol Ultra C 32 and the product sold by the company Chimex under the trade name Chimexane HA.
Use may also be made of compounds of formula (A3): (A3) Ra"-NH-CH(Y")-(CH2)n-C(0)-NH-(CH2)n,-N(Rd)(Re) in which:
- Ra" represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra"-C(O)OH preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil;
- Y" represents the group -C(0)OH, -C(O)OZ", -CH2-CH(OH)-S03H or the group
-CH2-CH(OH)-S03-Z", with Z" representing a cationic counterion resulting from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine;
- Rd and Re represent, independently of each other, a C C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; and
- n and n' denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3. Mention may in particular be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and sold by the company Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.
Preferably, the additional amphoteric surfactants are chosen from (C8-C20)alkyl amphodiacetates.
The composition according to the invention may preferably comprise the said additional amphoteric surfactant(s) in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight and preferentially from 1 % to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
DlESTERS OF POLYETHYLENE GLYCOL
The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more fatty acid diesters of polyethylene glycol comprising 10 to 500 oxyethylene units.
The fatty acid diesters of polyethylene glycol that may be used according to the invention advantageously have the formula (A) below:
o o
R— c- 0— CH 2r-CH' '2 -O C— R' (A) in which:
- R and R', which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain, comprising from 7 to 29 carbon atoms; and
- n denotes an integer ranging from 10 to 500.
Preferably, R denotes a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain comprising from 1 to 23 carbon atoms, better still from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and preferentially comprising 17 carbon atoms.
Preferably, R' denotes a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain comprising from 1 1 to 23 carbon atoms, better still from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and preferentially comprising 17 carbon atoms.
Preferentially, R and R' are identical.
Preferablly, n denotes an integer ranging from 20 to 400, especially from 50 to 300 or even from 100 to 200.
In a particularly preferred manner, the said diester is a polyethylene glycol distearate comprising from 10 to 500, preferably from 20 to 400, preferentially from 50 to 300 and better still from 100 to 200 oxyethylene units.
The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the said fatty acid diester(s) of polyethylene glycol in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 8% by weight and preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
OTHER INGREDIENTS
The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more polymers, preferably chosen from amphoteric or cationic polymers, and also mixtures thereof.
The term "cationic polymer" means any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to cationic groups. Preferably, the cationic polymer is hydrophilic or amphiphilic. The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those that contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups that may either form part of the main polymer chain or may be borne by a side substituent directly connected thereto.
The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5><106 approximately and preferably between 103 and 3x106 approximately.
Among the cationic polymers, mention may be made more particularly of:
(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of the following formulae:
— C
Figure imgf000012_0001
in which:
- R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical;
- A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- R4, R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
- R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;
- X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers that may be selected from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (CrC4) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
Among these copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of:
- copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules,
- copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as those sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy,
- copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as the product sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules,
- quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by the company ISP, for instance Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as Copolymer 845, 958 and 937. These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2 077 143 and 2 393 573,
dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,
- vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as those sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP,
- quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP,
- preferably crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C4)alkyltri(Ci- C4)alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, more particularly methylenebisacrylamide. A crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of the said copolymer in mineral oil may be used more particularly. This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba. A crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer containing about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester can also be used. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba.
(2) Cationic polysaccharides, especially cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums. Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
The cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are especially described in French patent 1 492 597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer "JR" (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400 or LR 30M) by the company Amerchol. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.
Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described especially in US patent 4 131 576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, in particular, with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.
The cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in US patents 3 589 578 and 4 031 307, and mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example, chloride). Such products are especially sold under the names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 or Jaguar C162 by the company Rhodia.
(3) Polymers formed from piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers.
(4) Water-soluble polyamino amides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyamino amides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis- halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyamino amide; these polyamino amides can be alkylated or, if they comprise one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized.
(5) Polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with bifunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.
(6) Polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the mole ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1 ; the resulting polyamino amide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a mole ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyamino amide preferably of between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or alternatively under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine copolymer.
(7) Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as the homopolymers or copolymers containing, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (I) or (II):
(CH,)k
. (CH2)k / ^
-(CH2,t— OR, X C(R12)-CH2- -W— CR12
H,C CH,
H,C CK,
(II) N
(I) ,Nt
/ I
R,
in which:
- k and t are equal to 0 or 1 , the sum k + t being equal to 1 ;
- R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;
- R10 and R11 , independently of each other, denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyi group in which the alkyl group contains 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a C1-C4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively R10 and R11 may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R10 and R11 , independently of each other, preferably denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- Y" is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
Mention may be made more particularly of the dimethyldiallylammonium salt (for example chloride) homopolymer sold for example under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco (and homologues thereof of low weight-average molar masses) and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and of acrylamide, sold especially under the name Merquat 550 or Merquat 7SPR.
(8) Quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula:
R15
— N+ -A1 - H- B1— (in)
I I
R x" R16 x"
in which:
- R13, R14, R15 and R16, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or else R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second non-nitrogen heteroatom, or else R13, R14, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C C6 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-0-R17-D or - CO-NH-R17-D group in which R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
- A1 and B1 represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
- X" denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;
it being understood that A1 , R 3 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;
in addition, if A1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 may also denote a group (CH2)n-CO-D- OC-(CH2)n- in which D denotes:
a) a glycol residue of formula -O-Z-0-, in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH2-CH2-0)X-CH2-CH2- and -[CH2-CH(CH3)-O]y-CH2- CH(CH3)-, where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;
b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative;
c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or else the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-;
d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-;
Preferably, X" is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally of between 1000 and 100 000.
Mention may be made more particularly of polymers that are composed of repeating units corresponding to the formula:
- N+(CH2)n-r (CH2)p — (IV)
' X" in which R1 , R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately, and X" is an anion derived from an organic or mineral acid.
A particularly preferred compound of formula (IV) is that for which R1 , R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical and n = 3, p = 6 and X = CI, known as Hexadimethrine chloride according to the I NCI (CTFA) nomenclature. (9) Polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (V): R 18 R 20
— N+ - (CH,) - NH - CO - (CH,)„ - CO - H (CHJ — +— A—
X I I
R19 (V) χ R21 in which:
- R 8, R19, R20 and R21 , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH group, in which p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that R18, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
- r and s, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
- q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,
- X- denotes an anion such as a halide,
- A denotes a dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.
Examples that may be mentioned include the products irapol® A15, Mirapol® AD1 , Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol.
(10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, for instance the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF.
(11) Polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by Cognis, referred to under the name Polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine in the CTFA dictionary.
(12) Polymers comprising in their structure:
(a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below:
— CH— CH—
NH, (A)
(b) optionally, one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below:
— CH-— CH—
2 I (B)
NH— C-H
I I
O In other words, these polymers may be chosen especially from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.
Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B), preferentially from 0 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B).
These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis may be performed in an acidic or basic medium.
The weight-average molecular mass of the said polymer, measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 g/mol and more particularly from 100 000 to 500 000 g/mol.
The cationic charge density of these polymers may range from 2 meq/g to 20 meq/g, preferably from 2.5 to 15 meq/g and more particularly from 3.5 to 10 meq/g.
The polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are sold especially under the name Lupamin by the company BASF, for instance, and in a non-limiting manner, the products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.
Other cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers comprising vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives. Preferably, the cationic polymers are chosen from the polymers of families (1), (2), (7) and ( 0) mentioned above.
Among the cationic polymers mentioned above, the ones that may preferably be used are cationic polysaccharides, especially cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums, and in particular quaternary cellulose ether derivatives such as the products sold under the name "JR 400" by the company Amerchol, cationic cyclopolymers, in particular dimethyldiallylammonium salt (for example chloride) homopolymers or copolymers, sold under the names Merquat 100, Merquat 550 and Merquat S by the company Nalco, and homologues thereof of low weight-average molecular weights, quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, optionally crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C4)alkyltri(Ci-C4)alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
It is also possible to use amphoteric polymers, which may preferably be chosen from amphoteric polymers comprising a repetition of:
(i) one or more units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type,
(ii) one or more units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type, and
(iii) one or more units derived from an acidic monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type.
Preferably, the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i) are units of structure (la) below:
Figure imgf000022_0001
in which Ri denotes H or CH3 and R2 is chosen from an amino, dimethylamino, tert-butylamino, dodecylamino or -NH-CH2OH radical.
Preferably, the said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of only one unit of formula (la). The unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type of formula (la) in which Ri denotes H and R2 is an amino radical (NH2) is particularly preferred. It corresponds to the acrylamide monomer per se.
Preferably, the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) are units of structure (lla) below:
Figure imgf000023_0001
in which:
- R3 denotes H or CH3,
- R denotes a group (CH2)k with k being an integer ranging from 1 to 6 and preferably from 2 to 4;
- R5, R6 and R7, which may be identical or different, each denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- Y" is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
Preferably, the said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of only one unit of formula (lla).
Among these units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type of formula (lla), the ones that are preferred are those derived from the methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride monomer, for which R3 denotes a methyl radical, k is equal to 3, R5l R6 and R7 denote a methyl radical, and Y" denotes a chloride anion.
Preferably, the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) are units of formula (Ilia):
Figure imgf000024_0001
in which Rs denotes H or CH3 and Rg denotes a hydroxyl radical or a
-NH-C(CH3)2-CH2-S03H radical.
The preferred units of formula (Ilia) correspond to the acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and 2-acrylamino-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomers. Preferably, the unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type of formula (Ilia) is that derived from acrylic acid, for which R8 denotes a hydrogen atom and Rg denotes a hydroxyl radical.
The acidic monomer(s) of (meth)acrylic acid type may be non- neutralized or partially or totally neutralized with an organic or mineral base.
Preferably, the said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of only one unit of formula (Ilia).
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer(s) of this type comprise at least 30 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i). Preferably, they comprise from 30 mol% to 70 mol% and more preferably from 40 mol% to 60 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type.
The content of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) may advantageously be from 10 mol% to 60 mol% and preferentially from 20 mol% to 55 mol%.
The content of units derived from an acidic monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) may advantageously be from 1 mol% to 20 mol% and preferentially from 5 mol% to 15 mol%.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer of this type comprises: - from 30 mol% to 70 mol% and more preferably from 40 mol% to 60 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i),
- from 10 mol% to 60 mol% and preferentially from 20 mol% to 55 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii), and
- from 1 mol% to 20 mol% and preferentially from 5 mol% to 15 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii).
Amphoteric polymers of this type may also comprise additional units, other than the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type, of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and of (meth)acrylic acid type as described above.
However, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the said amphoteric polymers consist solely of units derived from monomers (i) of (meth)acrylamide type, (ii) of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and (iii) of (meth)acrylic acid type.
As examples of amphoteric polymers that are particularly preferred, mention may be made of acrylamide/methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid terpolymers. Such polymers are listed in the CTFA dictionary. International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 10th edition 2004, under the name Polyquaternium 53. Corresponding products are especially sold under the names Merquat 2003 and Merquat 2003 PR by the company Nalco.
As another type of amphoteric polymer that may be used, mention may also be made of copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and on a dialkyldiallylammonium salt, such as copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride. An example that may be mentioned is Merquat 280 sold by the company Nalco.
The composition according to the invention may comprise the cationic and/or amphoteric polymers in an amount of between 0.01 % and 5% by weight, especially from 0.05% to 3% by weight and preferentially from 0.1 % to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention may be provided in any galenical form conventionally used and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution or suspension or oily solution or suspension; of a dispersion of the lotion or serum type; of an emulsion, in particular having a liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the O/W, W/O or multiple type; of an aqueous or anhydrous gel, or of any other cosmetic form.
The composition according to the invention may be aqueous or anhydrous. It is preferably aqueous and then comprises water at a concentration preferably ranging from 5% to 98% by weight, especially from 20% to 98% by weight and better still from 50% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition can also comprise one or more organic solvents which are liquid at 25°C and 1 atm, in particular water-soluble solvents, such as C1-C7 alcohols; mention may in particular be made of aliphatic or aromatic Ci- C7 monoalcohols, C3-C7 polyols or C3-C7 polyol ethers, which can thus be employed alone or as a mixture with water. Advantageously, the organic solvent may be chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, hexyleneglycol and glycerol, and mixtures thereof.
The pH of the composition, if it is aqueous, may be between 3 and 9 and preferentially between 4 and 7.
The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one or more common cosmetic ingredients chosen especially from propellants; cationic surfactants, nonionic surfactants; thickeners, gelling agents; liquid fatty substances, solid fatty substances; sunscreens; moisturizers; antidandruff agents; antioxidants; chelating agents; reducing agents; oxidation bases, couplers, oxidizing agents, direct dyes; relaxants; nacreous agents and opacifiers; micas, nacres, glitter flakes; plasticizers or coalescers; hydroxy acids; pigments; fillers; silicones and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); fragrances; basifying or acidifying agents; silanes; crosslinking agents such as polyphenols or aldehydes. A person skilled in the art will take care to choose the ingredients included in the composition and the amounts thereof so that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.
The composition according to the invention especially finds a particularly advantageous application in the hair sector, especially for caring for, cleansing and/or conditioning the hair or the scalp. The hair compositions are preferably shampoos, hair conditioners, styling or care gels, care lotions or creams, conditioners, masks, sera, lotions or shampoos for combating hair loss, antiparasitic shampoos, antidandruff lotions or shampoos, or shampoos for treating seborrhoea.
Preferably the composition according to the invention is a shampoo.
The composition according to the invention may be conditioned in a tube, in a bottle optionally equipped with a pump, or alternatively in an aerosol. In the case of an aerosol, the composition may then contain one or more standard propellants.
Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a hair composition for cleansing the hair; preferentially, the composition according to the invention is a shampoo.
The composition may or may not be rinsed out after having been applied to the keratin materials (hair and/or scalp), preferably rinsed out. It is thus optionally possible to perform rinsing, for example with water, after an optional leave-in time. Preferably, it is rinsed out, after an optional leave-in time. A subject of the invention is also a treatment process, especially for caring for, cleansing and/or conditioning keratin materials, especially the hair and/or the scalp, comprising the application to the said materials of a composition according to the invention, optionally followed by rinsing, after an optional leave-in time.
It is in particular a hair treatment process, for caring for, cosmetically treating and/or cleansing the hair and/or the scalp, in particular curly hair.
It is optionally possible to perform rinsing, for example with water, after an optional leave-in time.
The present invention is illustrated in greater detail in the examples that follow (% AM = percentage of active material in the composition).
EXAMPLE
A hair composition for cleansing the hair is prepared, comprising
(in % active ingredient):
Figure imgf000028_0001
This composition is capable of rapidly generating on hair an abundant, dense, creamy foam, which rinses out easily.
This composition used as a shampoo gives on hair a natural and clean feel after removal; it is particularly suitable for curly hair, and makes it possible to obtain shiny, supple curls.

Claims

1 . COMPOSITION, comprising:
- one or more anionic surfactants selected from sulfonate and carboxylate anionic surfactants,
- one or more amphoteric surfactants selected from betaines, and
- one or more fatty acid diester(s) of polyethylene glycol comprising 10 to 500 oxyethylene units.
2. COMPOSITION, according to Claim 1 , in which the sulfonate surfactant(s) are chosen from alkyl sulfoacetates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, a-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, acyl isethionates and N-acyltaurates, and also the corresponding salified forms, the alkyl and acyl groups preferably comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
3. COMPOSITION, according to either of the preceding claims, in which the sulfonate surfactant(s) are chosen from (C6- C24)acylisethionates, (C6-C24)alkyl sulfosuccinates and (C6-C24)alkyl ether sulfosuccinates comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units; these compounds may be in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol or alkaline-earth metal salts; and are preferentially chosen from (C12-C20)acylisethionates, (C12-C20)alkyl sulfosuccinates and (C12-C20)alkyl ether sulfosuccinates comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, especially in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline-earth metal salts; or a mixture of these compounds.
4. COMPOSITION, according to one of the preceding claims, in which the carboxylate surfactant(s) are chosen from acylglycinates, acylsarcosinates, acyllactylates and acylglutamates, the acy! groups preferably comprising from 14 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; and also the corresponding salified forms; these compounds may optionally be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units; alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids such as alkyl glucoside citrates and alkyl polyglycoside tartrates, the alkyl group comprising from 14 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; alkyl-D- galactosideuronic acids and salts thereof and also polyoxyalkylenated (C14- 30)alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C14-30)alkyl(C6-30)aryl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C14-30)alkylamido ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof.
5. COMPOSITION, according to one of the preceding claims, in which the carboxylate surfactant(s) are chosen from (C14- C30)acylglutamates and in particular stearoylglutamates, lauroylglutamates and cocoylglutamates; (C14-C30)acylsarcosinates and in particular palmitoylsarcosinates, stearoylsarcosinates, lauroylsarcosinates and cocoylsarcosinates; (C14-C30)acyllactylates and in particular behenoyllactylates, lauroyllactylates and (iso)stearoyllactylates; alkyl ether carboxylates and in particular lauryl ether carboxylates; and mixtures thereof, in particular in the form of alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal, ammonium, amine or amino alcohol salts; and more particularly from disodium cocoylglutamate and sodium lauroylsarcosinate.
6. COMPOSITION, according to one of the preceding claims, comprising the said anionic surfactant(s) in an amount ranging from 0,1 % to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 % to 12% by weight, better still from 2% to 10% by weight and preferentially from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. COMPOSITION, according to one of the preceding claims comprising at least one sulfonate anionic surfactant and at least one carboxylate anionic surfactant.
8. COMPOSITION, according to one of the preceding claims, in which the amphoteric surfactant(s) are chosen from(C8-C20)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C20)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C1- C6)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and (C8-C20)alkylamido(C1- C6)alkylsulfobetaines.
9. COMPOSITION, according to one of the preceding claims, in which the amphoteric surfactant(s) are chosen from (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C1-C6)alkylbetaines and mixtures thereof, ,even more particularly from (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, more preferably among cetyl betaine, lauryl betaine and cocobetaine.
10. COMPOSITION, according to one of the preceding claims, in which the amphoteric surfactant is cetylbetaine.
11. COMPOSITION, according to claiml O, the ponderal ratio cetyl betaine/other alkylbetaines being greater than 0,15, more preferably more than 0,2, even more preferably greater than 0,25.
12. COMPOSITION, according to one of the preceding claims, comprising the said amphoteric surfactant(s) selected from betaines in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight and preferentially from 1 % to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. COMPOSITION, according to one of the preceding claims, which does not comprise any sulfate anionic surfactants.
14. COMPOSITION, according to one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty acid diester(s) of polyethylene glycol have the formula (A) below:
Figure imgf000032_0001
in which:
- R and R\ which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain, comprising from 7 to 29 carbon atoms; preferably, R denotes a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain comprising from 11 to 23 carbon atoms, better still from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and preferentially comprising 17 carbon atoms; preferably, R' denotes a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain comprising from 11 to 23 carbon atoms, better still from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and preferentially comprising 17 carbon atoms; preferentially, R and R' are identical; and
- n denotes an integer ranging from 10 to 500, preferably ranging from 20 to 400, especially from 50 to 300 or even from 100 to 200.
5. COMPOSITION, according to one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty acid diester(s) of polyethylene glycol are chosen from polyethylene glycol distearates comprising from 10 to 500, preferably from 20 to 400, preferentially from 50 to 300 and better still from 100 to 200 oxyethylene units.
16. COMPOSITION, according to one of the preceding claims, comprising the fatty acid diester(s) of polyethylene glycol in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 8% by weight and preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
17. COMPOSITION, according to one of the preceding claims, also comprising one or more polymers, preferably chosen from amphoteric or cationic polymers, and also mixtures thereof.
18. COMPOSITION, according to Claim 17, comprising the cationic and/or amphoteric polymer(s) in an amount of between 0.01 % and 5% by weight, especially from 0.05% to 3% by weight and preferentially from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
19. COMPOSITION, according to one of the preceding claims, which is in aqueous form, and comprising water at a concentration preferably ranging from 5% to 98% by weight, especially from 20% to 98% by weight and better still from 50% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
20. PROCESS ESPECIALLY FOR CARING FOR, cleansing and/or conditioning keratin materials, especially the hair and/or the scalp, comprising the application to the said materials of a composition as defined in one of Claims 1 to 19, optionally followed by rinsing, after an optional leave-in time.
21. PROCESS, according to Claim 20, for hair treatment, for caring for, cosmetically treating and/or cleansing the hair and/or the scalp, in particular curly hair.
PCT/BR2013/000299 2013-07-31 2013-07-31 Composition comprising particular anionic surfactant, a particular amphoteric surfactant and a diester of polyethylene glycol, and treatment process WO2015013781A1 (en)

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BR112015032449-5A BR112015032449B1 (en) 2013-07-31 2013-07-31 HAIR COMPOSITION AND CARE PROCESS TO CLEAN AND/OR CONDITION HAIR AND/OR SCALP

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