LT5784B - Cosmetic compositions with improved antioxidative and moisturizing effect - Google Patents

Abstract

@@The present invention provides protecting creame compositions for dry, normal and mixed skin which protect skin against harmful influence of environment, in particular, against influence of free radicals arising from electromagnetic radiation, against dryness of skin due to conditioned air and heating. The creames claimed contain antioxidants and strong moisturizers and diminish destructive effect of free radicals. The compositions claimed contains at least three aqueous extracts of natural plants selected from green tea (Camelia sinensis), Ginkgo biloba, liquorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra), cornflower (Centaurea cyanus), butcher's broom (Ruscus aculeatus) and flax (Linum usitatissimum) (4-7 mass %). Antioxidative complex contains aqueous extract from green tea (Camelia sinensis) and Ginkgo biloba, oils from common seabuckthorn (Hippophae rhaminoides) and vine grape (Vitis vinifera) seeds and balm of fir (Pinus Siberica). Creame compositions comprise sodium hialuronate and carbamide as main moistur

Description

The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics, which relates to cosmetic products for protecting the skin from the negative effects of the surrounding environment, in particular free radicals due to electromagnetic fields, as well as to drying of the skin caused by electrostatic , heating equipment, and mechanical particles, dust, molds and synthetic coatings in the room.

With the decline in industrial and agricultural activities in Lithuania, most workers spend days in offices where the "unhealthy building syndrome" is clearly present.

The concept of Sick Building Syndrome (NPS) was developed in the early 1980s (http://www3.lrs.lt/pls/ev/ev.disp71 l = 2 & 12 = 2 & 13 = l & 14 = 2 & a_term = 530). This term was used to define the medical-ecological problem associated with the impact of multi-purpose facilities on human health.

When it comes to ecologically unfavorable conditions in the surrounding environment, first comes the idea of air pollution. According to ecologists, indoor air can be 4-6 times more polluted than outside (http://www.stroy-press.ru/?id=5636). Modern heating and ventilation systems create electrostatic charges in synthetic paints, carpets and furniture (http://www.epa.gov/iaq/pubs/sbs.html). The mucous membranes of the human eye, nose and throat, as well as the skin, suffer from the accumulation of electro-dust in these areas, from air dryness, from free radicals generated by electric fields. Rooms with multiple PCs experience a change in air composition due to the lack of light (negative) aerions. The lack of aerionics in the human body mainly affects the respiratory tract and the skin, causing inflammation of the mucous membranes of the skin

Dermatologists even assume that computer radiation can penetrate deeper layers of the skin, damaging the structure of elastin (btlady.com.ua/?articelD=l 121-). Skin, especially when dry, dries further, losing elasticity and firmness. The reason for all this is the electric field that exists around objects (bodies) or particles that have an electric charge, as well as in free state in electromagnetic waves.

The electric field created around and around the computer monitor changes the acid balance of the skin, drying it, causing scaling. Free radicals generated by a working computer cause skin cell damage and premature aging. Whatever the skin type, the skin condition worsens: normal skin dries, dry - dries even more, and gives a feeling of stretching. Mixed skin loses elasticity and expands pores, intensifies the exfoliation of dry areas. Oily skin produces more blackheads and greasy hair by mid-working day. The thin eyelid skin suffers the most - it loses moisture, elasticity and is covered with fine lines.

Therefore, cosmetics that mitigate the effects of free radicals on the skin must contain antioxidants and strong moisturizers.

Could not find patent document for cosmetics specifically designed for consumers related to NPS. Therefore, cosmetic creams that have antioxidant and moisturizing properties are taken as analogues.

Known RU patent no. 2302230 C2, published 10/07/2007, Bul. No. 19, which describes a spray lotion that has several effects - moisturizing, nourishing and regenerating, consisting of the moisturizer glycerol, fats such as olive oil and mink fat, which soften and regenerate the skin and also reduce water evaporation from the skin. These fats contain vitamin E, so it can be assumed that the cream also has antioxidant effect. The cream contains many emulsifiers such as cetearet 6 and a mixture of stearyl alcohol, stearic acid and triethanolamine. The cream is free of preservatives and, given that its fatty phase consists of natural fats, it should have a very short duration of action. The patent does not describe any tests or tests demonstrating its moisturizing and antioxidant properties.

WO 2009031788 describes a cosmetic composition consisting of two phases in a solid phase containing antioxidant vitamin C (0.1-20 wt%), other antioxidant selected from foam acid, lipoic acid (vitamin N), proanthocyanidine, retinol and its derivatives (vitamin A) ), ubiquinone (coenzyme Q10), cysteine and others. The aqueous phase contains one or more humectants, surfactants, stiffeners, pH controlling agents and sequestrants. Due to the high volatility and rapid oxidation of vitamin C, the two phases need to be stored separately and mixed just before use, which causes inconvenience.

The closest to the present invention is a complex of cosmetic compositions described in LT patent no. 5098 B (ONLY 7 A61K 7/48, published January 26, 2004) for aging skin with moisturizing, antioxidant, nourishing and regenerating effects. The creams contain the following main ingredients: 0.04 to 9.5% by weight of moisturizers, 2 to 11% by weight of emollients, 0.5 to 8% by weight of antioxidants, 1.5 to 8% by weight of emulsifiers. Natural ingredients with antioxidant properties such as Siberian cedar balm, sea buckthorn extract, ginkgo extract, calendula extract, vitamins A, E, C and D-panthenol (0.5 to 1.5% by weight) have been used as active ingredients. Low molecular weight alcohols such as glycerol, sorbitol, low molecular weight polyacrylamide, carbomer, lecithin and hyaluronic acid have been used as wetting agents. Softeners such as nutmeg, grape seed and cucumber oils also have antioxidant properties. The emulsifiers used were surfactants such as cetearyl alcohol, cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, Lauret 7 and ethyl linoleate. The desired microemulsion with compatible aesthetic and sensory factors was developed. The creams described in this patent are intended to maintain the moisture balance of the mature skin and to prevent aging, i.e. from free radicals. However, their effects are not declared as protecting against specific harmful NSPs, with enhanced protection against free radicals or with enhanced moisturizing effect.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to the development of protective cosmetic cream compositions having enhanced antioxidant and moisturizing properties for protecting the skin of workers in unhealthy buildings.

In formulating the formulations, various antioxidant ingredients were evaluated - natural and synthetic compounds appearing in cosmetic databases such as grape seed oil, grape peel extract, black, green and white tea extracts, sage, hawthorn, blackcurrant, ginkgo, sea buckthorn oil, flax, rosemary extracts of French seashore pine, Siberian cedar balm. As a result of the tests, it turned out that the antioxidant efficacy of the preparation is determined not only by the inclusion of these ingredients in the composition, not even their concentration, but by the "team" chosen for them in the formulation of the product. The point is that the antioxidant, by neutralizing the free radicals, loses its hydrogen and, at the same time, its reducing properties. In order for the antioxidant to "get out of the way", it needs a "support group" to help restore its antioxidant properties. Such auxiliaries, which assist in restoring the form of the main antioxidant, need to be incorporated into the composition of more than one complex consisting of a complex of plant extracts, a complex of vitamins, complexes of vegetable oils and other ingredients. However, no artificial complex is as robust and as perfectly nourished as plant polyphenols and flavonoids, which support and restore one another. This is what guarantees the products their long-term effect. Exploring the intricate mechanisms of antioxidant interactions, interest in synthetic and chemically pure antioxidants (vitamin C - ascorbic acid, vitamin E - tocopheryl acetate) in the cosmetics industry has declined.

Flavonoids are substances of plant origin that resemble estrogens in the human body. Flavonoids are incorporated into cosmetic products along with aqueous plant extracts. All of them show high antioxidant activity.

Therefore, the first important group of ingredients which constitute one of the novel features of the invention used in the compositions of the present invention is a complex of natural plant extracts with antioxidant properties consisting of at least three components selected from green tea (Camelia sinensis), ginkgo (Gingko bilobae). ), liquorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra), cornflower (Centaurea cyanus), geranium (or ivy) (Ruscus aculeatus) and flax (Linum usitatissimum) extracts of the relevant parts of the plant. Their compositions contain from 4 to 7% by weight.

Green Tea (Camelia sinensis) Extract. The popularity of green tea is driven by the discovery of new beneficial properties. The ability of green tea extract to counteract the aggressive effects of sunlight is particularly valued in cosmetology. Green tea is considered to be the leader among aqueous antioxidants, helping to maintain the skin's brightness and firmness. Its unique properties are due to the high concentration of polyphenols; as a free radical scavenger, it is significantly more active than the well-known classic antioxidant vitamin E. Polyphenols in tea show both anti-inflammatory and bacteriostatic activity to help penetrate biologically active substances into deeper layers of the skin. Caffeine in tea improves blood microcirculation and skin nourishment, reduces swelling; tannins give skin elasticity. Tea extract is rich in essential oils, group B vitamins. Vitamin B2 gives the tea extract its healing properties. In addition, green tea boosts blood circulation, supplies cells with oxygen, and strengthens the skin's protective properties. Tanning substances cover the skin with a dense film with bactericidal properties. Green tea extract not only mechanically but also biochemically cleanses the pores, eliminates dry skin, improves microcirculation in tissues, strengthens the walls of the smallest blood vessels.

Ginkgo bilobae extract is one of the strongest aqueous antioxidants. Ginkgo leaves contain more than 160 beneficial substances, including unusual compounds that are found nowhere in the wild. Particular emphasis should be placed on 2 compounds: flavonol and terpenyl lactone. As a pronounced antioxidant, ginkgo leaf extract protects cell membranes from free radicals, restores elasticity and firmness of blood vessels, despite the thousands of uses of ginkgo leaf in traditional medicine. After a detailed study of the chemical composition and activity spectrum of ginkgo leaf extract, today's cosmetics were developed in France and Germany only between 1965 and 1970. In vivo and in vitro experiments have shown that ginkgo leaf extract leaf extract binds free radicals and thus protects the phospholipid cell membrane from damage.

The antioxidant activity of these extracts is shown in Table 1.

Another important group of ingredients used in the compositions of the present invention are vitamins selected from at least three vitamins, such as retinol, usually retinyl palmitate (vit. A), tocopherol, usually tocopheryl acetate (vit. E), ascorbic acid (vit. C). ), vit. F derived from polyunsaturated fatty acids and D-panthenol (a natural precursor of vitamin B5). In addition to their effects on the skin, they also improve the skin's blood circulation and play the role of powerful antioxidants. Vitamin E, where present, is present in the compositions in an amount of 0.5% by weight. Vitamin C, where present, is present in an amount of 0.1% by weight. Vitamin A, where present, is present in the composition in an amount of 0.1% by weight. D-panthenol (as a natural precursor to vitamin B5), where present, is present in an amount of 1.0 to 2.0% by weight. Vitamin F (in the form of flaxseed oil), where present, shall be 0,2% by weight.

Vitamin E (tocopherol) - a fat soluble antioxidant. Natural sources of Vitamin E are vegetable oils, sprouted grains; Often, cosmetic products are included in their natural form. In cosmetics it supports the synthesis of collagen and elastin, stops aging, improves blood microcirculation, strengthens the walls of blood vessels.

Vitamin C (Fascorbic Acid) - a water-soluble antioxidant. Its main role is as a vitamin E restorer, in addition to protecting the skin from UV rays, activating collagen synthesis, speeding up healing of the lesions, slowing down the aging process.

Vitamin A ('retinol') - was the first vitamin described in the scientific literature in the 1920s. The main property of this vitamin is its antioxidant activity. In addition, retinol and its derivatives are important for the maintenance of healthy skin cells, the immune system, as well as for the prevention of cancer. Vitamin A performs several functions in cosmetics - neutralizes free radicals, reduces skin dryness, protects against UV rays, softens the epidermis and blocks the formation of blackheads.

Vitamin F is a complex of unsaturated fatty acids (iinolic, linolenic, arachidonic acids), which is widely used in cosmetic products for cleansing, nourishing the skin, especially for dry, irritated or developing skin. Vitamin ¹ F strengthens the epidermis barrier, regulates hydrolipid balance and, at the same time, moisturizes and elastices the skin. The natural source of vitamin F is flaxseed oil.

Other long-established herbal antioxidants such as sea buckthorn and grape seed oils, · Siberian '· Cedar Balm are used in the presented cosmetic compositions. From 2 to 3% by weight of grape seed oil and from 0.2 to 0.5% by weight of buckthorn oil, from 0.5 to 2.5% by weight of Siberian cedar balm (1: 1 mixture of purified live solids with castor oil) .

Sea buckthorn (Hippophoe rhaminoides) oil. Sea buckthorn fruits are full of vitamins, flavonoids, carotenoids, choline, coumarins, sterols, unsaturated and hydroxy acids, leavening agents, macronutrients and trace elements. Sea buckthorn. oil with regenerative properties helps in the treatment of radiation-damaged skin, thermal and chemical burns, trophic wounds. Helps maintain healthy skin tone and protect it from the negative effects of the surrounding environment. As an antioxidant; Occupies' vieh in the highest places table. Known ·? ways sea buckthorn oil helps the skin:

1. UV protection .. UV light interferes with the synthesis of collagen and elastin (a structural protein that gives the skin smoothness and elasticity) and generates free radicals that disrupt cell membranes and the skin's lipid barrier. Free radicals are neutralized by buckthorn antioxidants - vitamins A, E, C, P.

2. Skin restoration after burn. Sea buckthorn oil has been used for this purpose for thousands of years. Excessive UV light provokes the degeneration of pigment cell melanocytes into cancerous cells, while the antioxidant complex in buckthorn blocks this process.

3. Natural Whitening. Freckles and pigmentation spots appearing on the face and body when exposed to sunlight, when the skin is applied with sea buckthorn oil or cosmetics with sea buckthorn oil.

4. Softening of the skin. Oil film reduces the coefficient of natural water evaporation from the skin, saturates the skin with moisture, becomes softer and more elastic.

5. Treatment of damaged skin. Bruises, scratches, cuts stop bleeding, prevent inflammation and heal faster with buckthorn oil.

6. Blocking of blackheads and acne. Sea buckthorn oil inhibits bacterial growth, helps to heal acne without scars and pigmentation, and strengthens the skin's protective functions.

7. Strengthens hair roots due to its high content of vitamins and minerals and bioflavonoids capable of penetrating deeper layers of the epidermis.

Grape (Vitis vinifera) seed oil has a unique fatty acid composition. It contains the plant pigment chlorophyll, which has tonic properties, promotes granulation and epithelization of damaged tissues. Grape seed oil contains vitamin E and proanthocyanide, a complex that is 20 times more effective against free radicals than vitamin C; this oil contains large amounts of bioflavonoids which outperform their reducing properties. Vitamin E. As this oil is non-stick, it is well absorbed into the skin and used in various cosmetic formulations. It features:

- antioxidant;

- Vitaminizes and softens the skin;

- smoothes the skin and protects against moisture loss;

- soothes irritated skin;

- strengthens the outer layer of the skin, makes it more resistant to environmental influences; and

- restores skin fat loss after washing with soaps, has healing properties, suitable for any skin type.

Siberian Cedar (Pinus Sibirica) Balm is an extremely active biological product which is rich in nutrients, unsaturated acids, essential oils, carotenoids, chlorophyll, vitamins C, K, E, D, P complex of trace elements and trace elements. Complex flavonoid complexes positively influence the immune system of living organisms and act as antioxidants. Siberian cedar balm is one of the most effective remedies for inflammatory and allergic skin conditions. Various clinical trials of cedar balm cosmetics for more than a decade have shown that either the balm itself has a strong effect on the treatment of problematic skin or a strong synergistic effect with other herbs. It is especially suitable where the body lacks essential polyunsaturated fatty acids.

The antioxidant activity of these oils is given in Table 1.

As shown, the present cosmetic compositions include vitamins E, C, F, A, and carotenoids, bioflavonoids, plant polyphenols in antioxidant complexes. They create a synergistic antioxidant effect in creams.

One of the strongest antioxidants listed can be used to obtain the antioxidant effect. Several or all five of them can be used. The authors worked with various antioxidant ingredients, mixing them in different ways, in different quantitative and qualitative formulations, until they selected a group of the aforementioned necessary antioxidants (green tea extract, ginkgo extract, sea buckthorn oil and grape seed in both Siberian cedar balms). Their antioxidant activity is shown in Table 1. Since three of them are oily and two are aqueous, they can only be mixed in the form of an emulsion. Studies have shown that, when mixed with five antioxidants, the antioxidant effect of the emulsion increases and achieves much better results than the prototype products (see Table 2).

The result of the antioxidant activity of the cream formulations presented can be explained by "team play": when one antioxidant loses its electron, it is assisted by other members of the complex (team) in restoring its antioxidant properties.

The unique antioxidant complex, consisting of the five strongest antioxidants and the "support group", gives a strong and lasting effect.

Another important group of ingredients used in the compositions of the present invention are skin moisturizers. Cosmetics use a variety of methods to maintain moisture in the skin:

- occlusion (coating of the skin with a waterproofing film);

- moisture binding (hygroscopic materials, large molecule compounds, polymeric compounds);

- natural deep moisturizing (small molecules penetrating into the horny layer of the skin and absorbing water there).

- osmotic wetting (based on the inclusion of mineral salts in the formulation, which remove moisture from deeper layers of the skin to the surface).

Various types and concentrations of moisturizing ingredients have been modified to formulate the formulations presented. The combination of various moisturizers resulted in a deep and lasting moisturizing effect. Selected natural oils that form the occlusive film (grape seed, sea buckthorn oils, vitamin A and E oils), high molecular weight moisturizers that absorb moisture on the skin (glycerol, polyacrylamide, carbomer, hydroxyethyl acrylate, mucopolysaccharide and various copolymers) mineral salts to prevent moisture from deeper layers of the skin in dry conditions. When using occlusive materials, it was noted that during the working day (about 8-9 hours) the protective film formed by them wears off (by supporting the face, hand wiping the nose or boom), so the range of moisturizers had to be supplemented with deep moisturizers. the most beneficial for the skin are sodium hyaluronate and urea. They are present in the claimed compositions in amounts of 0.1 to 1% by weight and 1.0 to 2.5% by weight, respectively.

Urea (urea) retains its absorbing properties for a long time, slows down the process of skin infection, fungus spreads and acts as an antiseptic. Urea is an important moisturizer in cosmetics, because if the skin does not have enough urea, it becomes dry, starts to peel and crack. Its low molecular weight allows it to penetrate deeper layers of the epidermis. It retains moisture and also contains cosmetic compositions

1C carrier for biologically active substances and an excellent anti-peeling component for structuring cosmetic products.

Sodium hyaluronate is a mucopolysaccharide analogous to that found in the human body. It is a medium for many reactions - it enables bioflavanoid activity, binds water to the skin and prevents it from freezing at low temperatures. It forms a moisturizing film on the skin, which in turn allows the skin to heal faster.

The compositions of the invention also contain additional components well known to those skilled in the art. These include oils (at the same time emollients), emulsifiers, viscosity regulators, preservatives and so on. components that allow the creation of cosmetic products of good consistency.

The oils used in the compositions of the present invention are selected from natural oils such as grape seed (Vitis vinifera) seed oil, olive oil (Olive oleum), sea buckthorn oil (Hippophae rhamnoides), flax (Linum usitatisativum). Their compositions use from 0.05 to 3.0% by weight. Also from fatty acid esters such as isopropyl palmitate; synthetic fatty alcohols such as arachidyl alcohol and benehyl alcohol. They act indirectly by softening the skin but reducing the loss of moisture to the outside and allowing the skin to moisturize itself. They also have antioxidant effects. They are also important in the formulation of oily dispersions of cosmetic products and in water-in-water or water-in-oil phases. Their products contain from 0.1 to 4.5% by weight.

Emulsifiers in the compositions of the present invention consist of ethoxylated natural hydrogenated oils such as PEG-40, ethoxylated fatty acid esters such as ethyl hexyl stearate, ethoxylated triglycerides such as caprylic / capric acid triglyceride. They form emulsion complexes, whereby all the structural materials, bioactive substances, fats and water in the product can form the desired microemulsion during the emulsification process. Their compositions used from 3 to 21% by weight.

Hydroxyethyl acrylate and sodium acryloyldimethylurethyl copolymer, as well as a carbomer, having wetting properties are used in the compositions as thickeners and viscosity regulators.

In all compositions, a complex consisting of diazolidinylurea, methylparaben and propylparaben is used as a preservative. They contain only 0.45% by weight of the product.

Other active ingredients have the following characteristics:

Cornflower (Centaurea cyanus) extract is rich in anthocyanins and can act as an anti-inflammatory, skin disinfectant, tonic, biostimulant, regenerating and moisturizing component. It has been used for centuries to treat conjunctivitis, eyelids, and eyelids

Licorice (Glycyrrhiza elabella) root extract is rich in triterpenes, flavanoids, organic acids, carbohydrates, tannins and fatty acids such as oleic and palmitic. It is characterized by strengthening the walls of blood vessels, has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antiallergic and antimicrobial effects, regulates water and salt metabolism, cleanses and softens the skin.

Fenugreek (Ruscus aculeatus) extract plays an important role in the mechanism of vascular insufficiency: it stimulates blood circulation, strengthens blood vessels, improves microcirculation.

Flaxseed (Linum usitistativum) extract has a high concentration of polysaccharides for skin repair. The viscous solution covers the skin with a microfilm, which reduces water evaporation, protects against irritants and allergens.

Flaxseed (Linum usitistativum) oil is an excellent skin nourishing fat with softening and anti-inflammatory properties, rich in Vitamin F, Vitamin B, protein, minerals and essential fatty acids such as omega 3.

Ubiquinone (coenzyme OlO) in the mitochondria is involved in the energy production process and has antioxidant properties.

D-panthenol (precursor of vitamin B5) has a moisturizing, healing, skin smoothing effect. Usually used in all cosmetic compositions.

The water used in the products of the invention is deionized and serves as both a carrier and a wetting agent.

Most of the product components come from German suppliers: Cognis, Klaus F. Meyer GmbH, Clariant, Sanddom GbR and others.

The flavor comes from French firm JEAN NIEL S.A.

Suitable compositions of the present invention include cosmetic products such as sunblock and combination sunblock, and sunblock.

Sunscreen for normal and combination skin for long-term moisturizing of the face and neck and protection against the negative effects of devices used in modern office.

Protective cream for dry skin is designed to maintain normal skin moisture and fat balance and protect the skin from the harmful effects of electromagnetic waves.

Eye Cream Provides Long-Lasting Moisturization of the Eye Skin The active ingredients included in the composition are intended to disperse swelling and dark circles around the eyes.

The amounts of substances that can be used in products can vary widely, but it is important that both the amount of cosmetic effect and the amount of ingredients that ensure the proper consistency of the products

The compositions are prepared according to known procedures by individually preparing each phase and then mixing them. The main apparatus used to produce the claimed products are reactors, homogenizers and mixers of various sizes and uses.

The following are exemplary embodiments of the claimed compositions and general methods for obtaining them.

Sunscreen for normal and combination skin konwoziciia. % by weight: Plant Extract Blend: 4.0-6.0 (green tea, ginkgo, licorice) Glycerol 3.0-4.0 Grape seed oil 2.0 Siberian Cedar Balm 0.5-2.5 Sea buckthorn oil 0.5 Propylene glycol 2.5 Cetearyl alcohol 3.0

Isopropyl Palmitate 4.5

D-panthenol 1.0

Urea 1.0

Sodium carbomer 0.3

Trilauret-4 phosphate 0.25

Tocopheryl acetate (vit. E) 0.5

Ascorbic acid (vit. C) 0.1

Arachidyl alcohol 0.3

Behenyl alcohol 0.5

Arachidyl glucoside 0.5

Sodium Hyaluronate 1.0

Sorbitol 0.2

Lecithin 0.3

Flavoring 0.05

Diazolidinyl urea 0.3

Methylparaben 0.1

Propylparaben 0.05

Water remaining up to 100% by weight.

Phase A consists of propylene glycol IoCitin, trilautret-4-phosphate.

Phase B consists of isopropyl palmitate, cetearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, benehyl alcohol, arachidyl glucoside, grape seed oil and Siberian cedar balsam. Phase C consists of sea buckthorn oil and tocopheryl acetate.

Phase D consists of an aqueous plant extract consisting of green tea, ginkgo and licorice; D-panthenol and ascorbic acid.

Phase E consists of water and glycerol.

Phase F consists of sodium hyaluronate, sodium carbomer, sorbitol and urea. Phase G consists of diazolinylurea, methylparaben and propylparaben.

Phase H is composed of flavoring.

Dry Skin Cream Composition,% by Weight: Herbal Extract Blend: 5.0-7.0

(green tea, ginkgo, flax) Glycerol 4.0-5.0 Siberian Cedar Balm 0.5-2.5 Grape seed oil 3.0 Sea buckthorn oil 0.5 Propylene glycol 2.5 Caprylic / capric acid triglyceride 2.0 Ethylhexyl stearate 2.5 D-panthenol 1.5 Urea 2.5 Trilauret-4 phosphate 0.2 Tocopheryl Acetate (Vit. E) 0.5 Ascorbic acid (vit. C) 0.1 Linseed oil 0.2 Hydroxyethyl acrylate 1.5 Sodium acryloyldimethyluret copolymer 1.3 Flavoring 0.05 Hyaluronate Sodium 0.5 Sorbitol 0.2 Lecithin 0.3 Diazolidinyl urea 0.3 Methylparaben 0.1 Propylparaben 0.05 Water up to 100% by weight remaining. Phase A consists of propylene glycol. caprylic / capro acid copolymer, lecithin,

trilautret-4-phosphate.

Phase B consists of ethylhexyl stearate, flax seed oil, grape seed oil and Siberian cedar balm

Phase C consists of sea buckthorn oil and tocopheryl acetate.

Phase D consists of an aqueous plant extract consisting of green tea, ginkgo and linen; D-panthenol and ascorbic acid.

Phase E consists of water and glycerol.

Phase F consists of sodium hyaluronate, sodium acryloyldimethylureth copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate, sorbitol, and urea.

Phase G consists of diazolinylurea, methylparaben and propylparaben.

Phase H is composed of flavoring.

Eye cream composition,% by weight:

Herbal Extract Blend: 5.0-7.0 (green tea, ginkgo, cornflower, ivy) Glycerol 4.0-5.0

Siberian Cedar Balm 0.5-2.5

D-panthenol 2.0

Grape seed oil 2,0

Sea buckthorn oil 0,2

Propylene Glycol 2.0

Isopropyl Palmitate 3.0

Caprylic / capric acid triglyceride 3.0

Ethylhexyl stearate 4.0

Tocopheryl acetate (vit. E) 0.5

Retinyl acetate (vit. A) 0.1

Urea 2.0

Sorbitol 0.2

Lecithin 0.3

Glucose 0.1

Sodium hyaluronate 0.1

Dipalmitoylhydroxyproline 2.0

Ubiquinone (coenzyme Q10) 0.2

Flax seed oil 0,2

Hydroxyethyl acrylate 1,5

Sodium acryloyldimethylureth copolymer 2.5 Flavoring 0.05

Diazzo leacarbamide Methylparaben Propylparaben Water

0.3

0.1

0,05% up to 100% by weight.

Phase A consists of propylene glycol, copolymer of capric acid / capro and lecithin. Phase B consists of isopropyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl stearate, ubiquinone (coenzyme

Q10), flax seed oil, grape seed oil and Siberian cedar balm.

Phase C consists of sea buckthorn oil, tocopheryl acetate and retinyl palmitate (vit.

A).

Phase D consists of an aqueous plant extract consisting of green tea, ginkgo, cornflower, and wormwood; D-panthenol and ascorbic acid.

Phase E consists of water and glycerol.

Phase F consists of sodium hyaluronate, sodium acryloyldimethylureth copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate, sorbitol, glucose and urea.

Phase G consists of diazolinylurea, methylparaben and propylparaben.

Phase H is composed of flavoring.

Generic production technology:

1. Each phase F ingredient is immersed in water (excluding the amount of used water from the total amount of deionized water in the compositions):

A 2 wt% solution of sodium hyaluronate is prepared;

A 10 wt% solution of hydroxyl acrylate is prepared;

A 5 wt% solution is prepared from sodium acryloyldimethylureth copolymer;

A solution of 10% by weight of urea is prepared;

A sorbitol solution is prepared in a 70 wt% solution;

A 10% w / w solution of glucose is prepared;

A dispersion of 2% by weight of sodium carbomer is prepared; and the solutions are then allowed to settle.

2. Phase E ingredients are heated to 70 ° C, phase A is added, and the mixture is stirred for 30 minutes to keep the temperature below 65 ° C.

3. Phase B ingredients are heated to 70 ° C, stirred for 5 to 10 minutes, Phase C ingredients are added, stirred for 10 to 15 minutes, and kept at a temperature of at least 65 ° C.

4. To the mixture obtained by mixing the phase E and A ingredients (step 2), add the phase F ingredients prepared in step 1 and mix for 10-15 minutes at 65-70 ° C.

5. To the (E + A + F) Phase Ingredient Mixture obtained in Step 4 is added a warmed to 65 ° C (B + C) Phase Ingredient Mixture obtained in Step 3, the resulting mixture is stirred slowly for 5-10 minutes and then to Intensive to maximum revolutions - 3 minutes.

6. Stage 5 is again stirred slowly until the mixture has cooled to 35 ° C, then phase D ingredients are added and stirred for 5-10 minutes.

7. At 35 ° C, the ingredients of the G and H phases are added, the mixture is pumped into a homogenizer and stirred until the desired consistency is achieved.

Antioxidant activity assays

The research was performed at the Department of Drug Technology and Pharmacy Organization of Kaunas University of Medicine.

The antioxidant activity of the antioxidant components of the creams, the prototype and the creams of the present invention was investigated by the 2,2diphenyl-l-picrylhydrazil (DPPH ^- ) radical scavenging method (Giedrė Kasperavičienė, Vitalis Briedis, Liudas Iankaauskas. for activity.Medicine (Kaunas) 2004; 40 (8); 753-757). Antiradical activity is evaluated by measuring the percentage of the stable 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH ·) radical that is neutralized by the compounds having the antioxidant activity of the test substances. Mix 1 ml of antioxidant methanolic solution in a 1 cm wide 4 ml cell with 1 ml of 0.1 mM (0.00394 g - 100 ml of 96% ethanol) ethanolic DPPH · solution. The standard solution is 96% ethanol. The UNICAM Helios a spectrophotometer measured the absorbance of the samples at 517 nm until equilibrium was reached (about 20 minutes).

The antioxidant activity is expressed as a percentage of the amount of inactivated DPPH · according to the formula:

DPPH Inactivated percent [(A _b -A _a ) / A _b ] x 100 where A _b is the absorbance of the blank (t = 0 min);

A _a - absorbance of the test sample solution (t = 20 min);

Preparation of test solutions:

- The aqueous extracts are centrifuged at 10,000 rpm. speed, separating particulates;

- The oils are diluted with 96% ethanol (1: 1 by weight), dispersed and centrifuged;

- The creams are dispersed with 96% ethanol and 1,2-propanediol (3: 1), centrifuged at 10,000 rpm. at speed, separating the solids.

The spectrophotometric analysis of each sample was repeated 3 times. Data are presented as means ± SD. Statistical analysis was performed using Student's test and P <0.05 significance level.

The results obtained are shown in Tables 1 and 2.

table. Indicators of antioxidant activity of the tested components

Test samples DPPH Inactivated percent ± SD,% Ginkgo Extract 72.32 ± 0.58 Green Tea Extract 61.97 ± 4.91 Grape seed oil 73.81 ± 0.47 Sea buckthorn berry oil 72.87 ± 1.49 Cedar Balm 82.96 ± 2.06

table. Indicators of antioxidant activity of claimed and prototype creams

Test samples DPPH Inactivated percent ± SD *,% Cream base for normal skin 43.64 ± 0.41 Cream base for dry skin 23.89 ± 2.23 Applied cream for dry skin 83.74 ± 0.88 The cream is applied to normal and combination skin 85.95 ± 0.30 Applying eye cream 79.7 ± 0.45 Eye cream (Vaiva M.) (prototype) 50.36 ± * Anti-Wrinkle Cream (Vaiva M.) (Prototype) 50.00 ± *

* data not provided

As shown in Table 1, the antioxidant ingredients (extracts and oils) contained in the creams show a strong antioxidant activity (inhibiting about 63-74% of the stable (DPPH ·) radical). As shown in Table 2, creams with antioxidant complexes act synergistically and have even stronger antioxidant properties: 83.74% for dry skin, 85.95% for normal and combination skin, and 79.7% for eye cream. , while the prototype eye cream 50.36% and the anti-wrinkle cream Vaiva M. 50% despite having a strong antioxidant - Siberian cedar balm oil (Table 1, about 83% stopping).

Other studies

Other tests were performed at the Diagnostic-Test Certification Laboratory in Bialystok, Poland. May - July.

The effect of a protective cream for dry skin and normal and combination skin was investigated, in the hope that the following would:

- moisturizing the skin,

- makes the skin supple,

- protects the skin from dryness.

Investigations were carried out according to 2001. March. 30th No. Cosmetic Act 42, item 473, Article 11, paragraph 1, point 4.4: Evaluation of the effect of cosmetics on human health safety - including skin tolerance testing on a cosmetic test product - semi-open - according to European Cosmetics Directive 76/768 / EEC (including Annexes) .

Scope of the survey according to 2001 March. 30th Cosmetic Act (heading 42 473) - Article 11, paragraph 1, point 6: compliance with the efficacy claimed by the manufacturer - including the performance characteristics of the registered preparation.

The instrumental examination was performed using the Multi Skin Centem MC75 and PhotoFinderMedicam camera.

A. Dermatological examination

To perform a diagnostic test for harmless skin effects and to show the potential toxic irritant or sensitizing properties of the presented creams, the test was performed on 30 volunteers: 22 women and 8 men aged 35-62. Volunteers were warned not to use any antihistamine pharmaceutical drug that could affect the results of the study. The participants' skin and their subjective impressions were evaluated before, during and after the application of the creams by dermatologists. The above creams have been subjected to epidermal patch tests. The duration of the tests is 48 hours. The results of the patch tests were evaluated after 48 and 72 hours of application.

According to our research, no symptoms were found which could be harmful

i.e. Allergic or Toxic-Irritant Skin Tests - All skin tests are negative.

According to the volunteers who have provided significant information on the effects of the creams, both creams were well tolerated by the experimenter, since neither of them had expressed any objection to the creams, i.e. signs of itching, burning sensation, tightening of the skin or other signs that could indicate a negative effect on the human skin.

B. Study on the use of creams

The study was conducted under controlled conditions, under the supervision of dermatology specialists, physicians and medical staff, during regular office hours and / or during home volunteer activities. The creams were used by 25 volunteers with dry and very dry facial skin, as well as 25 volunteers with normal and combination facial skin, aged 25-69. The creams were applied twice a day (morning and evening): the creams were applied to a thoroughly cleansed face and then carefully applied to the skin. Volunteers were warned not to use any other cosmetic products with similar effects. The participants' skin and their subjective impressions were evaluated before and during the application of the cream by the dermatology specialist. Additional but very significant information about the effects of the creams was provided by the volunteers themselves. Therefore, they were in constant contact with the doctor.

Method of testing:

1. Control Conditions: Volunteers received samples of sunblock and sunblock for normal and combination skin, respectively, and were required to use them regularly for 4 weeks.

2. Instrumental study. An instrumental study was performed to confirm or reject the moisturizing effect and skin elasticity. Instrumental studies were conducted with 5 selected volunteers.

(a) Humidity measurement of skin by direct contact with the skin surface of a Corneometer probe for 60 seconds.

Volunteers were assigned 5 x 5 cm 2 sites on the inside of the right and left forearms (approximately 10 cm above the wrist). One spot was applied to each arm as a control and the other applied 0.18 g (0.007 g / cm ² ) of the respective test cream. Before measurement, skin moisture and evaporated water content are measured with a Corneometer probe for 60 seconds. Other measurements were made after 1 hour and after 5 hours after applying the cream. This was done at 22 ° C and room relative humidity.

(b) Measurement of elasticity over a period of 4 weeks.

Volunteers were assigned 5 x 5 cm 2 sites on the inside of the right and left forearms (approximately 10 cm above the wrist). One spot was applied to each arm as a control and the other applied 0.18 g (0.007 g / cm ² ) of the respective test cream. Before measurement, skin moisture and evaporated water content are measured with a Corneometer probe for 60 seconds. Other measurements were made one week after application of the cream and then at 2, 3 and 4 weeks. The results are shown in the tables below.

Sunscreen for normal to combination skin table. Average skin measurements over 60 seconds before and after 5 hours with constant and direct contact with the skin (in units)

Volunteer Humidity at the beginning of studies Humidity at the end of studies No skin creams Affected cream skin after 1 or. Affected cream skin after 5 hours. No skin creams Affected cream skin after 1 or. Affected cream skin after 5 hours. A 26th 29th 28th 32 33 30th B 29th 31st 30th 33 33 32 C 49 52 50 53 54 55 D 60 67 64 66 69 69 E 17th 24th 21st 25th 25th 27th Medium results 36 41 39 42 43 43

table. Average Moisture Evaporation Measurements in 60 Seconds Before and After 5 Hrs Using the Continuous and Direct Contact with Skin Touch (Conditional)

Volunteer Skin without cream Skin with cream after 1 hour. Skin with cream after 5 hours. A 6th 4 2 B 4 2 2 C 4 4 5 D 6th 2 5 E 8th 4 6th Medium results 6th 2 4 Average results,% 100 33 67

table. Average results of skin elasticity measurement on the forearm over the four-week period of use of the cream (in relative units)

Volunteer 0 Week I Week II Week III Week IV A 60 65 67 68 70 B 66 70 73 76 81 C 67 72 77 80 85 D 71 72 77 80 85 E 61 68 73 77 81 Average results for the whole group 65 71 76 80 85

Protective Cream For Dry Skin Table. Average skin measurements over 60 seconds before and after 5 hours with constant and direct contact with the skin (in units)

Volunteer Humidity at the beginning of studies Humidity at the end of studies No skin creams Affected cream skin after 1 or. Affected cream skin after 5 hours. No skin creams Affected cream skin after 1 or. Affected cream skin after 5 hours. A 39 45 42 50 47 44 B 33 40 38 42 44 43 C 30th 38 35 39 40 41 D 55 68 64 69 70 68 E 39 43 41 46th 48 47 Medium measurements results 39 47 44 49 50 49

table. Average Moisture Evaporation Measurements in 60 Seconds Before and After 5 Hrs Using the Continuous and Direct Contact with Skin Touch (Conditional)

Volunteer Skin without cream Skin with cream after 1 hour. Skin with cream after 5 hours. A 11th 2 2 B 9th 4 5 C 9th 2 6th D 14th 2 4 E 7th 5 6th Medium results 10th 2 5 Average results,% 100 20th 50

table. Average results of skin elasticity measurement on the forearm over the four-week period of application of the cream.

Volunteer 0 Week I Week II Week III Week IV A 60 65 67 68 70 B 66 70 73 76 81 C 67 72 77 80 85 D 71 72 77 80 85 E 61 68 73 77 81 Medium all groups results 65 71 76 80 85

a volunteer study with PhotoFinderMedicam fully corroborated the observations that before the test cream was applied, it was possible to see the true structure of the skin when the surface was covered with a net showing dark lines and deep wrinkles in the skin. Immediately after the application of the cream, it is apparent that the entire surface and deep wrinkles are sufficiently covered with a single layer. 5 hours after application, deep wrinkles and depressions are still covered with cream, although the protective film is clearly thinner as the skin structure becomes more translucent. This is because the fat components undergo partial immersion by forming the required shield against harmful environmental factors. A study after 4 weeks confirmed skin smoothness in relation to the application.

Volunteers and instrumental measurements have confirmed that the tested creams have very good moisturizing properties and effectively protect the skin from drying out, cracking, peeling and other symptoms caused by harmful environmental effects. The use of applied creams improves skin condition, skin appearance especially for people who spend much time indoors with air conditioning and / or work on computers because their skin was more prone to dry out.

The ingredients of the tested creams contribute to a timely, stable shielding of the skin. Studies have confirmed the implicit and observable moisturizing properties of creams, where moisture measurements by the aforementioned probe method have shown that tested creams for dry skin and normal and combination skin maintain a very stable level of moisture in the skin, slowing down the amount of water available to the skin. The rate of water release of the cream-protected skin was reduced by approximately 80% during the first hour in the test group, and was still lower by almost 40% after 5 hours compared to untreated skin. This means that after application of the creams, the constant occlusion decreases, which has a very significant effect not only on the hydro-lipid balance but also on the gas exchange (i.e. skin respiration). Thanks to this feature, creams can be used on both healthy skin and very dry skin.

During the study, volunteers confirmed that regular use of creams improves skin condition and appearance, especially for people who spend much time indoors and / or working on computers when their skin is more likely to dry out.

Volunteers emphasized that the creams provided a pleasant feeling when used, which, together with its effectiveness, encouraged their use. In addition, the study has shown that creams are easily applied to the body, have good adhesion and friction properties, and are easily rinsed away from anointed areas when needed.

Claims (8)

Cosmetic creams compositions containing from 0.04 to 9.5% by weight of moisturizers, from 2 to 11% by weight of emollients, from 0.5 to 8% by weight of antioxidants, from 1.5 to 8% by weight of emulsifiers, from 0.0005 up to 0.1% by weight of a preservative; 0 to 0.5% by weight of a flavoring, which additionally contains an aqueous complex of natural plant extracts. 2. Cosmetic creams according to claim 1, wherein the complex of aqueous plant extracts in the compositions comprises at least three plant extracts selected from green tea (Camelia sinensis), ginkgo (Gingko bilobae), licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra), cornflower (Centaurea). cyanus), weevil (or ivy) {Ruscus aculeatus) and flax {Linum usitatissimum). 3. Cosmetic creams according to claims 1 and 2, characterized in that the complex of aqueous plant extracts in the compositions is from 4 to 7% by weight. Cosmetic creams according to claims 1-3, characterized in that the necessary oxidative complex consists of an aqueous extract of green tea (Camelia sinensis), an aqueous extract of Gingko bilobae, oil of sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhaminoides), oil of grape seed (Vitis vinifera). and Sinus Cedar {Pinus Sibirica) Balm, Cosmetic creams according to claims 1-4, characterized in that the creams contain sodium hyaluronate and urea as the main moisturizers. 6. Cosmetic cream compositions according to claim 5, wherein the cream compositions contain from 0.1 to 1.0% by weight of sodium hyaluronate and from 1.0 to 2.5% by weight of urea. Cosmetic cream compositions according to claims 1-6, characterized in that the cream compositions comprise at least two vitamins selected from retinyl palmitate (vitamin A), tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E) and ascorbic acid (vitamin C). 8. Creamy cosmetic compositions according to claim 7, wherein the cream compositions contain 0.1% by weight of vitamin A, 0.5% by weight of vitamin E and 0.1% by weight of vitamin C.