KR950004070B1 - Manufacturing method of polar mixing yarn - Google Patents

Manufacturing method of polar mixing yarn Download PDF

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KR950004070B1
KR950004070B1 KR1019920023785A KR920023785A KR950004070B1 KR 950004070 B1 KR950004070 B1 KR 950004070B1 KR 1019920023785 A KR1019920023785 A KR 1019920023785A KR 920023785 A KR920023785 A KR 920023785A KR 950004070 B1 KR950004070 B1 KR 950004070B1
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yarn
yarns
nylon
denier
manufacturing
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KR1019920023785A
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Korean (ko)
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KR940014981A (en
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안병훈
이태호
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주식회사 코오롱
하기주
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/16Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics using jets or streams of turbulent gases, e.g. air, steam

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Fluid Mechanics (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

The method is characterized by an air textured process in which 2 extract mixed yarns with a single yarn size of 0.05 to 0.6 deniers have difference of supply feed percentage by 4 to 7 %.

Description

초극세혼섬사의 제조방법Manufacturing method of ultra fine blended yarn

본 발명은 원단의 부드러운 감과 드레이프성이 향상된 면조(綿調) 직물을 제조하기 위한 초극세혼섬사의제조방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a manufacturing method of ultra-fine blended yarn for producing a cotton fabric with improved soft feel and drape of the fabric.

종래에 알려진 면조직물은 부드러운감과 표면의 자연스러운 광택을 위해 이종(異種)이거나 동일한 원사소재를 공기난류법(Air textured proces)에 의해 피드율을 달리하므로서 가공되는 원사의 부품성에 의존한 직물을 제조하거나 혹은 부드러운 감을 향상시키기 위하여 원사의 단섬도를 세섬화시키는 방법을 채택하고있는 바, 그 구체적인 방법은 다음과 같다.Conventionally known cotton fabrics produce fabrics that depend on the component properties of the yarn processed by varying the feed rate of different or identical yarn materials by air textured proces for smoothness and natural gloss of the surface. In order to improve the soft or soft feeling, the method of fine-graining the single fineness of yarn is adopted. Specific methods are as follows.

첫째, 나일론 또는 폴리에스테르 1∼2 데니어 원사를 공기난류 가공하는 방법,First, air turbulence processing of nylon or polyester 1-2 denier yarn,

둘째, 추출형 극세사와 나일론 또는 폴리에스테르 1∼2 데니어 원사를 공기난류 가공하는 방법,Second, air turbulence processing of extractable microfibers and nylon or polyester 1 to 2 denier yarns,

셋째, 분할형 극세사와 나일론 또는 폴리에스테르 1∼2 데니어 원사를 공기난류 가공하는 방법.Third, air turbulence processing of a split microfiber and nylon or polyester 1 to 2 denier yarns.

이러한 방법중 첫째의 방법은 사용하는 원사의 섬도가 비교적 굵으므로 원단제조시 촉감이 거칠고 드레이프성이 부족한 문제점이 있으며, 둘째의 방법은 추출형 극세사를 사용하므로 첫번째 방법의 문제점은 다소해결되었으나 극세화된 섬유의 섬도(약 0.5데니어정도)와 정규 나일론 또는 폴리에스테르의 섬도(l∼2데니어) 차가 너무 크므로 염색시 염색줄이 발생하는 문제점이 있으며, 셋째의 방법은 분할형 극세사를 사용하므로서 미분할사에 의한 염색줄 발생의 문제 및 이종성분의 존재에 의한 염색성불량의 문제가 있었다.Among these methods, the first method has a problem that the fabric is relatively thick and the touch is rough and the drape property is insufficient. In the second method, an extract type microfiber is used to solve the problem. The difference in fineness (about 0.5 denier) of the finished fiber and fineness (l ~ 2 denier) of regular nylon or polyester is too large, and there is a problem of dyed lines during dyeing. There was a problem of dyeing by the salsa and a problem of staining due to the presence of heterologous components.

그러므로 본 발명에서는 상기 방법의 문제점을 해결하고 본 발명의 목적을 달성하기 위해 추출헝 극세사를 서로 다른 공급율로 공기 난류가공한 원사를 제조함으로서 직물제조시 우수한 촉감 및 드레이프성을 갖도록 하였다.Therefore, in the present invention, to solve the problems of the method and to achieve the object of the present invention by producing the air turbulence-processed yarn at different feed rates of the extracted hung microfiber to have excellent touch and drape properties during fabric manufacturing.

이하 본 발명을 상세히 설명하면 다음과 같다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

본 발명은 추출후 단사섬도가 0.05∼0.6데니어인 추출형 복합섬유 2본을 공급율 차이가 4∼7%되게 공기난류 가공함을 특징으로 하는 초극세혼섬사의 제조방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a method for producing ultra-fine microfibre yarns, characterized in that air turbulence processing is performed on two extractable composite fibers having a single yarn fineness of 0.05 to 0.6 denier after extraction so that the feed rate difference is 4 to 7%.

본 발명에서 사용하는 추출형 복합섬유의 추출후 섬도가 0.05∼0.6데니어이어야 하는데 그 이유는 일반적으로 단섬도가 가늘수록 부드러운 감을 부여할 수 있으나,0 05데니어 미만이면 직물상에서 모우등으로 탈락되거나 실제 원사제조상에 무리가 따르게 되며 또한 0.6데니어를 초과하는 경우 원사의 굵기가 굵어짐에따라 부드러운 촉감을 얻을 수가 없게 된다.The fineness after extraction of the extractable composite fiber used in the present invention should be 0.05 to 0.6 denier, which is why, in general, the finer the fineness, the softer the feeling can be. When the yarn is overwhelmed, and if it exceeds 0.6 denier, the thicker the yarn, the softer the touch cannot be obtained.

또한 추출형 복합섬유 2본의 공급율 차이가 4∼7% 정도 되어야 하는데 만일 공급율 차이가 4% 미만일경우 외측에 형성된 루프가 부족하여 부드러운 촉감이 부족하게 되며,7%를 초과하는 경우 너무 큰 공급율차이로 원사의 절사 및 모우가 발생되는 문제가 있으므로 좋지 않다.In addition, the feed rate difference between the two extractable composite fibers should be about 4-7%. If the feed rate difference is less than 4%, there is a lack of loops formed on the outside and the soft touch is insufficient. It is not good because there is a problem that the yarn is cut and woowoo.

본 발명에 사용하는 추출헝 복합섬유는 공지된 방법에 의해 제조가 가능하며 그 구성은 폴리에스테르와 나일론, 폴리에스테르와 공중합 폴리에스테르 등 그 사용 용도에 맞는 것을 취합, 선택하여 사용하면 된다.Extracted hung composite fiber used in the present invention can be produced by a known method, and its configuration may be selected and used according to the intended use such as polyester and nylon, polyester and copolyester.

또한 본 발명에서 사용하는 추출형 복합섬유의 추출후의 섬모가 0.05∼0.6데니어 정도로 분포되게 하려면 단면의 중심이 무게중심이 아닌 편심형태의 추출형 복합섬유가 바람직하다.In addition, in order to distribute the cilia after extraction of the extract-type composite fiber used in the present invention at about 0.05 to 0.6 denier, the eccentric type extract-type composite fiber is preferable, not the center of gravity of the cross section.

이러한 추출형 복합섬유는 선출원된 특허출원 제92-17577호에 의해 제조할 수 있다.Such extractable composite fibers can be prepared by patent application No. 92-17577.

즉, 편심형태의 추출형 복합섬유를 추출시켜 극세화시키면 섬도가 상이한 극세사가 존재하므로 촉감을 더욱 향상시킬 수 있다.That is, by extracting the eccentric extractable composite fiber and miniaturizing it, the microfiber yarns having different fineness can be further improved.

이하, 본 발명을 실시예 및 비교예에 의거 더욱 상세히 설명한다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail based on Examples and Comparative Examples.

단, 본 발명이 실시예로 국한되는 것은 아니다.However, the present invention is not limited to the examples.

(실시예 1)(Example 1)

초극세사가 나일론으로 되도륵 하기 위해 폴리아미드와 알칼리 가용성 폴리에스테르 고분자를 사용한 극세화 복합사를 120D/36F(비수 8%, 건수 15%)로 제조함에 있어서, 가용성 고분자를 후가공 공정에서 용출시켰을 때 초극에 단섬유의 섬도분포가 0.05에서 0.6데니어가 되도록 한 원사 2가닥을 피드율 23%와 18%로 하여 피드율차를 5% 수준으로 하여 공기난류교락공법으로 제조하여 위사로 사용하고, 경사는 통상의 나일론 40D/34F의 원사를 사용하여 경,위사 밀모를 각각 130본/인치 및 80본/인치로 평제직하고 정련 및 열처리공정을 행한 후 샌딩롤러로 버핑가공을 한 후 가성소다 희석액으르 고분자 배열체 원사를 초극세사화시키고 통상의 염색을 행하고 건조한 후 핀텐터에서 발수처리와 동시에 최종 열처리공정을 하였다.In manufacturing ultrafine composite yarn using polyamide and alkali-soluble polyester polymer in order to turn it into nylon at 120D / 36F (8% in number, 15% in number), when the soluble polymer is eluted in the post-processing process Two yarns with a fineness distribution of short fibers of 0.05 to 0.6 denier were prepared by the air turbulence method and used as weft yarns with a feed rate difference of 5% and a feed rate of 23% and 18%. Weaving light and weft wheat wool to 130 / inch and 80 / inch, respectively, using nylon 40D / 34F yarns, and after scouring and heat-treating, buffing with sanding roller, polymer array with caustic soda diluent Sieve yarns were microfiberized, normal dyed, dried, and subjected to a final heat treatment at the same time as a water repellent treatment on a pin tenter.

(실시예 2)(Example 2)

실시예 1에서 적용한 원사를 위사로 적용하고 경사에는 통상의 나일론 70D/24F 원사를 적용하여 경,위사밀도를 각각 110본/인치 및 70본/인치로 하여 제직한 후 실시예 1과 동일한 가공을 실시하였다.The yarn applied in Example 1 was applied as a weft yarn, and a normal nylon 70D / 24F yarn was applied to the warp yarn to weave the warp and weft densities to 110 yarns / inch and 70 yarns / inch, respectively. Was carried out.

(비교예 1)(Comparative Example 1)

실시예 2와 동일한 통상의 나일론 70D/24F원사의 공급피드율을 23%와 18%로 하여 피드율차를 실시예와 같이 1.5%로 하여 위사로 제직하고 경사로는 실시예 2의 통상의 나일론 70D/24F의 원사를 사용하여 경,위사밀도를 각각 110본/인치 및 80본/인치로 하여 제직하여 실시예와 동일한 가공을 실시하였다.The feed rate of the same normal nylon 70D / 24F yarn as in Example 2 was set at 23% and 18%, and the feed rate difference was 1.5% as in the example. Using a yarn of 24F, weaving was performed at 110 yarns / inch and 80 yarns / inch, respectively.

(비교예 2)(Comparative Example 2)

실시예 1에 적용한 고분자 극세 복합사(A)와 나일론 70D/24F의 원사(B)를 공기난류교락방식으로 피드율을 A원사는 23%로 B원사는 18%로 하여 피드율차를 5%로 하여 경사로 사용하고 위사로는 통상의 나일론70D/24F원사를 사용하여 제직하였다.The feed rate of the ultrafine composite yarn (A) and the nylon 70D / 24F yarn (B) applied in Example 1 was 23% for yarn A and 18% for yarn B, and the feed rate difference was 5%. As a weft yarn, weaving was performed using ordinary nylon 70D / 24F yarn.

경, 위사의 밀도를 각각 110본/인치 및 75본/인치로 제직하여 실시예 1과 동일한 가공을 실시하였다.The density of the light and weft yarns were weaved at 110 bones / inch and 75 bones / inch, respectively, to carry out the same processing as in Example 1.

(비교예 3)(Comparative Example 3)

고분자 상호 배열체 초극세사중 나일론과 폴리에스테르로 구성된 분할형 극세사(120d/26f, 비수 8%, 건수 15%)(A)와 통상의 나일론 70D/24F 원사(B)를 비교예 2와 동일한 방법으로 공기난류교락을 하여 경사로 사용하고 위사로는 통상의 나일론 70D/24F 원사를 적용하여 제직하였다Split microfiber (120d / 26f, 8% non-number, 15%) (A) and ordinary nylon 70D / 24F yarn (B) composed of nylon and polyester in the polymer inter-array superfine yarn in the same manner as in Comparative Example 2 Air turbulence was used as a warp yarn and weft weaving was made by applying ordinary nylon 70D / 24F yarn.

제직밀도와 가공조건은 비교예 2와 동일 조건으로 실시하였다.Weaving density and processing conditions were performed under the same conditions as in Comparative Example 2.

이상과 같은 조건하에서 제조된 실시예와 비교예 제품의 주된 특징을 비교하면 <표 1>과 같다.When the main characteristics of the Example manufactured by the above conditions and the comparative example product are compared, it is as in <Table 1>.

* 촉감은 가와바다 시스템에 의해 측정하였음.* The touch was measured by the Kawada Sea system.

(비교예 4)(Comparative Example 4)

실시예 1에서 사용한 극세화복합사 2가닥을 피드율을 각각 23%와 15%로 하여 피드율차를 8% 수준으로한 것외에는 실시예 1과 동일한 방법으로 행하였으나 공기난류 가공시 절사가 다발하여 직물로 적용하기가 곤란하였다.The ultrafine composite yarn used in Example 1 was subjected to the same method as in Example 1 except that the feed rate difference was 8% and the feed rate was 23% and 15%, respectively. It was difficult to apply.

Claims (2)

추출후 단사섬도가 0.05∼0.6데니어인 추출형 복합섬유 2본을 공급율차이가 4∼7% 되게 공기난류교락공법(Air textured가공)으로 가공함을 특징으로 하는 초극세혼섬사의 제조방법.A method of manufacturing ultra-fine micro blended yarns, characterized by processing two extractable composite fibers having a single yarn fineness of 0.05 to 0.6 denier after extraction by an air turbulence method (Air textured processing) so that the supply rate difference is 4 to 7%. 제1항에 있어서, 추출헝 복합섬유의 단면형태가 편심형임을 특징으로 하는 초극세혼섬사의 제조방법.The method of claim 1, wherein the cross-sectional shape of the extracted hung composite fiber is eccentric.
KR1019920023785A 1992-12-10 1992-12-10 Manufacturing method of polar mixing yarn KR950004070B1 (en)

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