KR20240049168A - Oily solid cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

Oil-based solid cosmetics include (A) a stabilizer containing at least one of hydrogenated castor oil, a monohydric alcohol with 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and jojoba ester, and (B) solid oil (however, the (excluding those) and (C) volatile silicone oil, and the mass ratio (A/B) of component (A) and component (B) is 1/50 to 1/9.

Description

Oil-based solid cosmetics {OILY SOLID COSMETIC}

The present invention relates to oil-based solid cosmetics.

In many cases, oil-based solid cosmetics used in eyeliner, eyebrows, concealers, etc. contain non-volatile ingredients such as solid oils, liquid oils, coating agents, and coloring agents, and volatile ingredients such as volatile emulsions, and the evaporation of the volatile ingredients occurs. Together, a coating film containing non-volatile components such as colorant can be uniformly formed. In addition, in these cosmetics, the coating agent helps the makeup last a long time and provides properties (lastingness) that make it difficult to transfer color (for example, see Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 8-157324).

Generally, in oil-based solid cosmetics, adjustments such as reducing the solid oil or increasing the liquid oil are made in consideration of usability, such as extensibility during application and suppressing stickiness. However, in the case of oil-based solid cosmetics mixed with volatile oils, During storage, the appearance tends to change, such as oil easily seeping out. In addition, according to the study by the present inventors, it has been found that the hardness of oil-based solid cosmetics containing volatile oils may vary significantly during temperature cycle tests that repeatedly cycle between low and high temperatures. In response to these problems, simply increasing the solid oil or reducing the volatile emulsion reduces usability and lasting properties.

The present invention was made in view of the above-described circumstances, and its purpose is to provide an oil-based solid cosmetic that has excellent lasting properties and usability, and has sufficient storage stability with little change in appearance and hardness.

In order to solve the above problems, the present invention includes (A) a stabilizer containing at least one of hydrogenated castor oil, a monohydric alcohol with 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and jojoba ester, and (B) a solid oil (however, (A) ) and (C) volatile silicone oil, and the mass ratio (A/B) of component (A) and component (B) is 1/50 to 1/9. provides.

The oil-based solid cosmetic of the present invention may further include (D) a coating agent. In this case, the oil-based solid cosmetic further contains the powder component (E), and the total content of the component (D) and the component (E) may be 25 to 80% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic.

In the oil-based solid cosmetic of the present invention, the content of component (A) may be 0.1 to 2% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic.

According to the present invention, it is possible to provide an oil-based solid cosmetic that has excellent lasting properties and usability, and has sufficient storage stability with little change in appearance and hardness.

Furthermore, according to the oil-based solid cosmetic of the present invention, a rod-shaped cosmetic with sufficient hardness can be formed, and in addition to the above-mentioned characteristics, this rod-shaped cosmetic can have sufficient strength to satisfy a drop test.

The oil-based solid cosmetic of the present embodiment is (A) a stabilizer containing at least one of hydrogenated castor oil, a monohydric alcohol with 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and jojoba ester (hereinafter sometimes referred to as component (A)). , (B) solid oil (excluding that corresponding to component (A)) (hereinafter sometimes referred to as component (B)), and (C) volatile silicone oil (hereinafter referred to as component (C)). In some cases, it includes).

<(A) Stabilizer>

(A1) Hydrogenated castor oil (hereinafter sometimes referred to as (A1) component) is obtained by hydrogenating castor oil, and can be used without particular limitation as long as it is used in cosmetics. Hydrogenated castor oil includes Himashigoka Oil A (manufactured by Ito Seiyu Co., Ltd., product name), Casta Wax A Flakes (manufactured by Nichiyu Co., Ltd., product name), Himako (manufactured by K-F Trading Co., Ltd., product name), etc. Commercially available products are available.

(A2) The monohydric alcohol having 10 to 24 carbon atoms (hereinafter sometimes referred to as the (A2) component) may be a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic alcohol. Examples of the component (A2) include lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and oleyl alcohol. From the viewpoint of stability of hardness against temperature changes, component (A2) may be a straight-chain saturated aliphatic alcohol with 14 to 22 carbon atoms, a straight-chain saturated aliphatic alcohol with 14 to 18 carbon atoms, or a straight-chain saturated aliphatic alcohol with 16 to 18 carbon atoms. It's okay too. The (A2) component may be a mixture of two or more types, or may be cetearyl alcohol.

(A3) Jojoba ester (hereinafter sometimes referred to as (A3) component) includes partially hydrogenated jojoba ester and fully hydrogenated jojoba ester obtained by hydrogenating jojoba oil. From the viewpoint of suppressing fluctuations in hardness, the component (A3) may be partially hydrogenated jojoba ester. As such ester oil, commercial products such as FLORAESTERS20, FLORAESTERS30, and FLORAESTERS60 (above, manufactured by INTERNATIONAL FLORA TECHNOLOGIES, brand name) can be used.

The oil-based solid cosmetic of the present embodiment may contain component (A1) as the component (A) from the viewpoint of suppressing variation in hardness.

The compounding amount of component (A) in the oil-based solid cosmetic of this embodiment may be 0.1 to 2% by mass, 0.2 to 1.5% by mass, or 0.3 to 1% by mass, based on the total amount of cosmetics. When the compounding amount of component (A) is within these ranges, it becomes easy to achieve both excellent lasting properties and usability and storage stability with little hardness variation at a high level.

<(B) Solid oil>

The (B) component can be blended with solid oils commonly used in cosmetics, such as hydrocarbon-based wax or vegetable-based wax, either one type or in combination of two or more types. In addition, in this specification, solid oil refers to oil that does not show fluidity at 40°C. Solid oil may have a melting point of 40°C or higher. In addition, the melting point of solid oil is measured by the following method.

Weigh approximately 5 mg of the sample and place it into an aluminum sample pan. Attach an aluminum cover to this fan and install it inside a differential scanning calorimeter “DSC7020” (product name, manufactured by Hitachi High-Tech Science Co., Ltd.). Using an electric cooling unit "Polyscience" (manufactured by Hitachi High-Tech Science Co., Ltd., product name), the sample and reference sample were kept at -10°C for 1 minute under a nitrogen gas flow rate of 30 to 35 mL/min, and then heated at a temperature increase rate of 10°C. Raise the temperature from 0℃ to 120℃ at a temperature lowering condition of -10℃/min, lower the temperature from 120℃ to -10℃ at -10℃/min, hold at -10℃ for 5 minutes, and then lower to -10℃ again at a heating rate of 10℃/min. By increasing the temperature from to 120°C, a melting endothermic curve is obtained. At this time, the peak temperature of the melting endothermic curve at the second temperature increase is taken as the melting point.

Solid oils include, for example, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene wax, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, candelilla wax hydrocarbon, sunflower seed wax, rice wax, wood wax, beeswax, spermaceti, higher fatty acids, etc. can be mentioned.

From the viewpoint of shape maintenance, component (B) may have a melting point of 50 to 120°C or 60 to 110°C.

The compounding amount of component (B) in the oil-based solid cosmetic of the present embodiment may be 5 to 30% by mass, 10 to 20% by mass, or 12 to 18% by mass, based on the total amount of cosmetics, from the viewpoint of shape maintenance. Even % is fine.

In the oil-based solid cosmetic of the present embodiment, from the viewpoint of achieving both excellent lasting properties and usability and sufficient storage stability with small changes in appearance and hardness, the mass ratio (A/B) of component (A) and component (B) ) can be set to 1/50 to 1/9, and can also be set to 1/45 to 1/10, and from the viewpoint of reducing the variation in hardness, (A/B) can be set to 1/35 to 1/13. You may do so.

In addition, regarding the reason why component (A) functions as a stabilizer in the oil-based solid cosmetic of the present embodiment and exerts the above-mentioned effect (in particular, can stabilize the hardness of the cosmetic), the present inventors consider as follows. there is. It is said that in a system containing solid oil and volatile silicone oil, component (A), which has relatively low compatibility with volatile silicone oil, is blended in the above ratio with respect to the solid oil, thereby making it possible to finely crystallize the solid oil (e.g. wax). It is believed that, in a system containing sufficient volatile silicone oil that can well disperse the coating agent, a solid cosmetic with sufficient strength can be formed even at a solid flow rate that does not cause stickiness.

<(C) Volatile silicone oil>

Examples of the component (C) include low molecular weight linear silicones such as dimethylpolysiloxane, cyclic silicones such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and branched silicones such as methyltrimethicone.

The boiling point of component (C) at 1 atm (101.325 kPa) may be 250°C or lower, 210°C or lower, or 200°C or lower.

(C) Component can be used individually or in combination of two or more types.

The compounding amount of component (C) in the oil-based solid cosmetic of the present embodiment may be 10 to 40% by mass, 15 to 35% by mass, or 20 to 30% by mass, based on the total amount of cosmetics, from the viewpoint of lasting properties. It's okay too.

In the oil-based solid cosmetic of the present embodiment, from the viewpoint of stability of hardness against temperature changes, the mass ratio (A/C) of component (A) and component (C) may be 1/150 to 1/20, and the lasting effect is maintained. From the viewpoint of both stability of hardness against temperature changes, (A/C) may be 1/125 to 1/23, or 1/60 to 1/23.

The oil-based solid cosmetic of the present embodiment may further contain a (D) coating agent (hereinafter sometimes referred to as the (D) component) from the viewpoint of both lasting properties and usability.

<(D) Film agent>

(D) Components include silicone resins such as trimethylsiloxysilicic acid and polyalkyl silsesquioxane, (acrylate/stearyl acrylate/dimethicone methacrylate) copolymer, (acrylate/dimethicone) copolymer, etc. Silicone-based coating agents such as acrylic and silicone resins, candelilla resin, etc. can be mentioned.

The oil-based solid cosmetic of this embodiment may contain a silicone-based coating agent as component (D) from the viewpoint of lasting properties.

The compounding amount of component (D) in the oil-based solid cosmetic of the present embodiment may be 10 to 50% by mass, 15 to 40% by mass, or 20% by mass based on the total amount of cosmetics from the viewpoint of both lasting properties and usability. Even ~35% by mass is acceptable.

The oil-based solid cosmetic of this embodiment may further contain (E) powder component depending on the intended use.

<(E) Powder components>

As a powder ingredient, any ingredient normally used in cosmetics can be used without particular limitation. Examples include sieving powder and coloring pigments.

Examples of sieving powder include inorganic powder, synthetic inorganic powder, organic powder, metallic soap, and synthetic polymer powder. More specifically, mica, kaolin, sericite, talc, phlogopite, synthetic mica, silica, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, aluminum oxide, boron nitride, zinc stearate, aluminum stearate, zinc myristate, polyethylene powder, Examples include urethane beads, polymethyl methacrylate, and organopolysiloxane elastomer. The shape of the sieving powder is not particularly limited, but for example, a spherical powder with an average particle diameter of 1 to 50 μm can be used.

Coloring pigments include bengala, iron sulfate, black iron oxide, cobalt oxide, ultramarine blue, royal blue, titanium oxide, zinc oxide, pearl pigments (mica titanium, fish cake, bismuth oxychloride, etc.), organic pigments (red No. 228) , red No. 226, blue No. 404, red No. 202, yellow No. 4 aluminum lake, etc.), natural pigments (carmine, safflower, etc.), etc.

The compounding amount of component (E) in the oil-based solid cosmetic of the present embodiment may be 20 to 45% by mass, 15 to 50% by mass, or 25 to 40% by mass, based on the total amount of cosmetics, from the viewpoint of usability and color development. Even mass percentage is fine.

In the oil-based solid cosmetic of the present embodiment, the combination of the above-described (A) component and (B) component makes it easy to ensure storage stability even when the (D) component and (E) component are included, ( The total content of component D) and component (E) may be 25 to 80% by mass, 40 to 70% by mass, or 50 to 60% by mass, based on the total amount of cosmetics.

The oil-based solid cosmetic of this embodiment may further contain other oil-based components other than the components mentioned above.

<Other oil-based ingredients>

As other oily ingredients, for example, paste oils and liquid oils commonly used in cosmetics can be used, and these can be blended one type or in combination of two or more types.

Paste-type oils include, for example, petrolatum, hexa(hydroxystearic acid/stearic acid/rosin acid) dipentaerythrityl, tetra(hydroxystearic acid/isostearic acid) dipentaerythrityl, and pentaisostearic acid dipentaerythrityl. , dipentaerythrityl hexahydroxystearate, tri(caprylic acid/capric acid/myristic acid/stearic acid) glyceryl, isostearic acid hydrogenated castor oil, phytosteryl oleate, hexa(oleic acid/palmitic acid/stearic acid) ) Sucrose, macadamia nut fatty acid phytosteryl, bisdiglyceryl polyacyl adipate-2, etc.

Liquid oils include, for example, cetyl ethylhexanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, triethylhexanoin, isotridecyl isononanoate, isostearyl isostearate, neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate, and tri(caprylic capric acid). Glyceryl, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, propanediol diisostearate, trimethylolpropane triethylhexanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, octyldodecyl stearoyloxystearate, diisostearyl malic acid, triiso Ester oils such as polyglyceryl stearate, dipentaerythrityl pentaisostearate, and trimethylolpropane triisostearate; Non-volatile silicone oils such as dimethicone and diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone (methylphenylpolysiloxane); Hydrocarbon oils such as liquid paraffin, squalane, olefin oligomer, liquid paraffin, squalane, and hydrogenated polyisobutene; Vegetable oils such as sunflower seed oil, jojoba seed oil, olive oil, and castor oil; (A2) Higher alcohols other than the component may be mentioned.

The total content of paste oil and liquid oil in the oil-based solid cosmetic of this embodiment can be 0 to 30% by mass, or 1 to 20% by mass, based on the total amount of cosmetics.

<Other ingredients>

In the oil-based solid cosmetic of this embodiment, in addition to the above-mentioned components (A) to (E) and other oil-based components, other components commonly used in cosmetics, such as moisturizers, surfactants, ultraviolet absorbers, preservatives, vitamins, beauty ingredients, Antioxidants, fragrances, etc. can be appropriately mixed as needed within a range that does not impair the effect of the present invention.

The oil-based solid cosmetic of this embodiment may have a hardness of 0.1 to 2.5 N, 0.2 to 2.3 N, or 0.5 to 2.1 N at 25°C, as measured under the following conditions.

Measuring device: Rheometer (manufactured by Leotech Co., Ltd.)

Measuring conditions: Shape of the tip of the decompression shaft: disk with a diameter of 1 mm, penetration speed: 6 cm/min, penetration depth: 10 mm.

The use of the oil-based solid cosmetic according to this embodiment is not particularly limited, but may be used as makeup cosmetics such as lipstick, foundation, blush, concealer, eye shadow, eye liner, eyebrow, mascara, makeup base, hair color, lip cream, and lip balm. , skin care cosmetics such as eye cream, moisturizing cream, and sunscreen.

The oil-based solid cosmetic according to this embodiment may be molded into a rod shape such as a stick shape or pencil shape, or may be directly filled into a container such as an inner plate. The stick-shaped oil-based solid cosmetic is suitable for, for example, eyebrow pencil, eyeliner, lip liner, concealer pencil, eye shadow pencil, etc.

As a method for producing an oil-based solid cosmetic according to the present embodiment, for example, the above-mentioned (A) component, (B) component, and (C) component, and, if necessary, (D) component, (E) component, and other components are mixed. A method of solidifying the cosmetic base material obtained by filling it in a predetermined container or mold is included.

Examples of predetermined containers filled with cosmetic base materials include inner plates such as metal plates and resin plates. These inner plates can be mounted in a compact container as is after the oil-based solid cosmetic is formed. Additionally, it is also possible to fill compact containers or jar containers directly.

A stick-shaped oil-based solid cosmetic can be produced, for example, by the following procedure. First, the powder component is added to the liquid and solid oil components heated and dissolved, and this is dispersed using a roller or the like, and then a volatile emulsion, a coating agent, etc. are added and mixed uniformly to obtain a cosmetic base. Next, it can be molded into a rod shape by performing a molding process such as extrusion molding or melt filling molding. Additionally, since the cosmetic base according to the present embodiment contains a volatile oil agent such as component (C), melt-fill molding using a mold or melt-fill molding directly into a cylindrical container may be performed.

Example

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail through examples, but the technical scope of the present invention is not limited by these examples.

Prior to the examples, the evaluation method employed in each example will be explained.

(1) Initial hardness of cosmetics

The bulk hardness of the cosmetic at 25°C was measured using a rheometer (manufactured by Rheotech Co., Ltd.) under the following conditions.

[Measuring conditions]

Shape of the tip of the decompression shaft: disk with a diameter of 1 mm, penetration speed: 6 cm/min, penetration depth: 10 mm.

(2) Storage stability (change in hardness)

20 g of cosmetics were filled into a jar container and stored in a cycle thermostat at 5°C to 40°C for 4 weeks. The hardness of the cosmetic material after preservation was measured using the same method as the initial hardness. The rate of change in hardness relative to the initial hardness defined by the formula below was determined, and storage stability was evaluated from the viewpoint of hardness change according to the following judgment criteria.

Rate of change in hardness (%) = [Initial hardness - Hardness after storage] × 100 / Initial hardness

[Criteria]

A: The rate of change in initial hardness is ±0% or more and 20% or less.

B: The rate of change in initial hardness is greater than ±20% and less than or equal to 40%

C: Variation from initial hardness exceeds ±40%

(3) Storage stability (change in appearance)

20 g of cosmetics were filled into a jar container and stored at 50°C for 4 weeks. The state of the cosmetic after storage was visually confirmed, and storage stability was evaluated from the viewpoint of changes in appearance according to the following judgment criteria.

[Criteria]

A: Oil seepage and sweating are not visible.

B: Slight oozing of oil or sweating is seen.

C: Oil oozing or sweating is seen.

D: Significant oil oozing or sweating is seen.

(4) Lasting properties

The cosmetic was applied uniformly on a Bioskin Plate (manufactured by Burax) in an area of 1 cm x 3 cm. After 10 minutes, the degree of adhesion of the cosmetic was confirmed visually by pressing paper on the application area and determining it in the following four steps.

[Criteria]

A: No cosmetic adhesion to the paper is visible.

B: A trace amount of cosmetics can be seen adhering to the paper.

C: A small amount of cosmetics can be seen adhering to the paper.

D: More than half of the applied cosmetic adheres to the paper

(5) Usability

Cosmetics were used by 10 expert panelists, and were rated on a 5-point scale from 1 to 5 (1 being the worst and 5 being the best) in terms of good extensibility when applied and no stickiness during and immediately after application. It was rated as . In addition, usability was determined according to the following evaluation criteria by calculating the average score of all panels.

[Evaluation standard]

A: Average score is 4.5 points or higher

B: Average score is 3.5 points or more but less than 4.5 points

C: Average score is 1.5 points or more but less than 3.5 points

D: Average score is less than 1.5 points

(6) Drop strength

The molded stick-shaped cosmetic was placed in a dispenser-type pencil container, left to stand at 25°C for 24 hours, and then dropped horizontally five times from a height of 50 cm. The appearance of the stick-shaped cosmetic after being dropped was visually confirmed, and the falling strength was evaluated using the following evaluation criteria.

[Evaluation standard]

A: No problem

B: A slight curve is visible.

C: A small amount of cracking or bending (however, it is possible to take it out of the container) is visible.

D: A bend or bend that prevents extraction from the container is visible.

(Examples 1 to 14 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4)

Oil-based solid cosmetics (eyeliners) with compositions (mass %) shown in Tables 1 to 3 were prepared by the following manufacturing method, and the above evaluation was performed. The results are shown in Tables 1 to 3.

<Method>

The powder component was added to the liquid and solid oil components by heating and dissolving them, and this was dispersed using a roller or the like, and then the volatile oil and coating agent were added and mixed uniformly to obtain a cosmetic base. Next, the cosmetic base material was molded into a rod shape by melt filling molding using a mold.

In Tables 1 to 3, details of each component are as follows.

Candelilla wax hydrocarbon: “Candelilla wax hydrocarbon FC-31” (manufactured by Nippon Natural Products Co., Ltd., brand name)

Polyethylene wax (synthetic wax): “PERFORMA SW-87 Synthetic Wax” (manufactured by NuCera Solutions LLC, brand name)

Jojoba ester: “FLORAESTERS30” (manufactured by INTERNATIONAL FLORA TECHNOLOGIES, brand name, partially hydrogenated jojoba ester)

Dipentaerythrityl pentaisostearate: “Saracos DP518N” (manufactured by Nissin Oilio Group Co., Ltd., brand name)

Diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone: “KF-56A” (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., brand name)

Powder ingredient-1: black iron oxide, bengala, sulfated iron oxide, titanium oxide, synthetic mica, borosilicate (Ca/Al)

As shown in Tables 1 and 2, the cosmetics obtained in Examples 1 to 14 were rated “B” or “B” in terms of storage stability (change in hardness), storage stability (change in appearance), lasting properties, usability, and dropping strength. It was an evaluation of “A”.

(Example 13: Eyeliner)

(ingredient) (Mixing ratio (mass%))

1. Hydrogenated castor oil 1.0

2. Candelilla wax hydrocarbon 2.0

3. Polyethylene wax (synthetic wax) 7.0

4. Methyltrimethicone 20.0

5. Trimethylsiloxysilicic acid 24.0

6. Dipentaerythrityl pentaisostearate 1.5

7. Diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone 9.5

8. Powder ingredients-1 35.0

The components are the same as those shown in Tables 1 to 3.

<Method>

The powder component (component 8) is added to the liquid and solid oil components (components 1 to 3, 6, and 7) by heating and dissolving, and this is dispersed using a roller, etc., and then mixed with the volatile emulsion (component 4) and coating agent (component 5). ) was added and mixed uniformly to obtain a cosmetic base. Next, the cosmetic base was molded into a rod shape by melt filling molding using a mold to obtain an eyeliner.

<Evaluation>

The obtained eyeliner was evaluated as described above, initial hardness: 1.35 N @25°C, storage stability (change in hardness) “B”, storage stability (change in appearance) “B”, lasting property “B”, The evaluation was usability “B” and drop strength “A”.

Claims (9)

(A) a stabilizer containing at least one of hydrogenated castor oil, a monohydric alcohol having 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and jojoba ester, and (B) solid oil (excluding those corresponding to component (A) above) and (C) a volatile silicone oil, and the mass ratio (A/B) of the component (A) and the component (B) is 1/50 to 1/9. The oil-based solid cosmetic according to claim 1, further comprising (D) a coating agent. The oil-based solid cosmetic according to claim 2, wherein the content of the component (D) is 10 to 50% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic. The oil-based solid cosmetic according to claim 2, further comprising (E) a powder component, and the total content of the component (D) and the component (E) is 25 to 80% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic. The oil-based solid cosmetic according to claim 3, further comprising (E) a powder component, and the total content of the component (D) and the component (E) is 25 to 80% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic. The oil-based solid cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the content of the component (A) is 0.1 to 2% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic. The oil-based solid cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the mass ratio (A/C) of the component (A) and the component (C) is 1/150 to 1/20. The oil-based solid cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the content of component (B) is 5 to 30% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic. The oil-based solid cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the content of component (C) is 10 to 40% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic.