JP6829886B2 - Oily cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to oil-based cosmetics.

Examples of oil-based cosmetics include lipsticks, eye shadows, blushers, etc., and are composed mainly of oil-based raw materials. Among these oil-based cosmetics, in so-called matte type cosmetics having a suppressed luster, a technique of highly blending silica and a technique of using a silicone compound as a base material of the cosmetic have been adopted.
One of the problems with oil-based cosmetics has been that the dispersibility of the coloring material is poor due to its high melt viscosity. Furthermore, by adopting the above-mentioned conventional technology in so-called matte type cosmetics, Problems such as a squeaky feeling after application with a high-mix silica and low compatibility between silicone and other oils have been raised.

Patent Document 1 describes a method for producing an oil-based solid cosmetic containing a dextrin fatty acid ester and a urethane resin powder. According to the oil-based solid cosmetic, the strength of the cosmetic against an external impact, the strength of the cosmetic against an external impact, and an application tool such as a puff. It is described that the transferability of the cosmetic and the powdery feeling to the skin at the time of application can be obtained.
Patent Document 2 describes a composition for external use on the skin, which contains a plastic powder composed of trimellitic acid triester and polyurethane, and has no squeak on the coated surface.
Patent Document 3 describes an emulsifying composition for cosmetic retouching containing a (dimethicone / vinyldimethicone) crosspolymer, polymethylsesquioxane and (HDI / trimethylolhexyllactone) crosspolymer.

Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2010-70459 Japanese Patent No. 6097059 Japanese Patent No. 6219331

The present invention solves the above-mentioned problems found in so-called conventional mat-type oil-based cosmetics, and provides a cosmetic having a good matte effect and a feeling of use (spreading and spreading, squeaky feeling on the coated surface). Is the subject.

The present invention is a composite powder (B) in which a core composed of (A) a gelling agent containing a polysaccharide fatty acid ester derivative, (B) polyurethane powder (B-1), and a polymer component other than polyurethane is coated with polyurethane. -Provide an oil-based cosmetic containing one or more selected from (2).

The oil-based cosmetic of the present invention provides a highly stable cosmetic in which each component is uniformly dispersed, and is excellent in matte effect and usability (spreading and spreading, squeaky feeling on the coated surface).

<Ingredient (A)>
The component (A) contained in the cosmetic of the present invention contains a polysaccharide fatty acid ester derivative known as a gelling agent.
The component (A) is a dextrin fatty acid ester such as, for example, dextrin octanoate, dextrin laurate, dextrin myristate, dextrin palmitate, dextrin (palmitic acid / ethylhexanoic acid), dextrin isostearate; inulin octanoate, inulin laurate. , Inulin fatty acid esters such as inulin myristate, inulin palmitate, inulin stearate; sucrose fatty acid esters and the like.
Among them, dextrin fatty acid ester is preferable, and dextrin palmitate is more preferable.

As the component (A), if it contains a polysaccharide fatty acid ester derivative, it may contain other known gelling agents for cosmetics.
Examples thereof include 12-hydroxystearic acid, metal soap, fumigant silicic acid, (behenic acid / eicosandioic acid) glyceryl, tri (behenic acid / isostearic acid / eicosandioic acid) glyceryl, and organically modified clay minerals. ..

<Ingredient (B)>
The polyurethane powder of the component (B-1) is made of a simple substance of polyurethane, but a small amount of fine particle silica may be embedded in the surface of the particles made of a single polyurethane. The small amount of fine particle silica is fine particle silica contained in an amount of 5% by mass or less with respect to the particles made of simple polyurethane. When the fine particle silica is contained, the component (B-1) may be a mixture of the particle powder composed of the polyurethane alone and the polyurethane powder containing the fine particle silica.

The polyurethane powder of the component (B-1) is described in, for example, the (HDI / trimethylolhexyl lactone) crosspolymer described in Patent Documents 2 and 3 and JP-A-2017-160126 (IPDI / poly (IPDI / poly). 1,4-Butandiol) -14) crosspolymer, (HDI / PPG / polycaprolactone) crosspolymer and the like can be mentioned. Commercially available products can also be used, and examples thereof include product names "D-400", "D-800", and "CS-400" (all manufactured by Toiro Pigment Co., Ltd.).

The polyurethane composite powder of the component (B-2) has a core made of a composite powder (B-2-1) and / or a (meth) acrylate derivative in which a core made of a silicone resin is coated with polyurethane. It is a composite powder (B-2-2) coated with.

In the present invention, the "silicone resin" of the composite powder refers to a silicone resin powder known as a cosmetic component.
Further, in the present invention, the "(meth) acrylate derivative" of the composite powder indicates a polymer derived from an acryloyl group-containing monomer containing a (meth) acrylate monomer.

The composite powder having the silicone resin as the component (B-2-1) as the core and coated with polyurethane is preferably spherical or substantially spherical.
The average particle size is larger than that of the silicone resin at the core, preferably 1 to 30 μm, and more preferably 3 to 15 μm. Specifically, an organic synthetic spherical powder containing a silicone resin powder described in JP-A-2008-1678, a product name "US-450" (manufactured by Toiro Pigment Co., Ltd.), and the like can be used. ..

As the silicone resin constituting the composite powder of the component (B-2-1), it is preferable to use a powdered one.
The average particle size of the silicone resin powder is preferably 0.3 to 5 μm, and more preferably 0.3 to 1 μm.
As the component (B-2-1), a composite powder composed of polyurethane powder containing the following silicone resin powder can be used.

In a polyurethane composite powder composed of a polyurethane powder containing a silicone resin powder, "encapsulation" means that the silicone resin powder is contained in the polyurethane powder. Since the "encapsulation" is based on the production of the polyurethane powder containing the silicone resin powder, the polyurethane powder containing the silicone resin powder rubs against each other during the production of cosmetics and the like to form the silicone resin. Even when the powder is exposed, it will be contained in the polyurethane powder containing the silicone resin powder of the present invention.

Polyurethane powder is known and can be obtained, for example, by reacting an isocyanate compound with a polyol described in JP-A-2010-163389, JP-A-2012-219221, and JP-A-2016-199532. ..

The silicone resin powder is, for example, "(b) Silicone skeleton powder" described in JP2013-633954A and "(B) Crosslinked organopolysiloxane polymerization" described in JP2012-240994. "Products", silicone-based resins among "(C) oil-soluble resins" in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2013-227306 can be used, and among these, polymethylsilsesquioxane powder is preferable.
Polymethylsilsesquioxane powder is silicone KMP-590 (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd .; particle size 1-3 μm), Tospearl 120A, Tospearl 145A, Tospearl 2000B (manufactured by Momentive Performance Materials Japan), MSP. Commercially available products such as −N050 (manufactured by Nikko Rika Co., Ltd .; particle size 0.5 μm) can be used.

The content ratio of the silicone resin powder in the total 100% by mass of the silicone resin powder and the polyurethane powder is preferably 2 to 13% by mass, more preferably 4 to 10% by mass, and the balance ratio is the polyurethane powder.
A composite powder made of polyurethane powder containing such silicone resin powder can be produced by adding silicone resin powder during the polymerization reaction of polyurethane and causing the polymerization reaction.

The composite powder in which the (meth) acrylate derivative, which is the component (B-2-2), is coated with polyurethane as the core, is an organic synthetic spherical powder containing PMMA described in JP-A-2008-1678. A polymer derived from a vinyl group-containing monomer containing a (meth) acrylate monomer at the core and a porosity of a polymer derived from a urethane component containing an isocyanate prepolymer, which is described in JP-A-2016-199532. Resin particles; Core portion forming crosslinked resin having a (meth) acrylate monomer unit in the core portion described in JP-A-2017-48323, and the shell portion forming a shell portion containing at least one of polyurethane and polyurea. Porous resin particles made of crosslinked resin; product name "UP-611" (manufactured by Toiro Pigment Co., Ltd.) and the like can be used.

As the component (B), it is preferable to use the polyurethane powder (B-1) and the polyurethane composite powder (B-2) in combination. When (B-1) and (B-2) are used in combination, (B-1) / (B-2) (mass ratio) is preferably 4/1 to 1/4, and 1/1. It is more preferable to use at ~ 1/4.

Among the polyurethane composite powders (B-2), the polyurethane composite powder (B-2-1) having a silicone resin as a core and the polyurethane composite powder (B-) having a (meth) acrylate derivative as a core. 2-2) may be used in combination.
As the component (B-2), it is preferable to use the component (B-2-1).

When the above (B-2-1) and (B-2-2) are used together, (B-2-1) / (B-2-2) (mass ratio) is used at 1 / 1-3 / 1. Is preferable, and it is more preferable to use it at 1/1 to 1.5 / 1.

<Component (C)>
The oily cosmetic of the present invention preferably contains, as the component (C), one or more colorants selected from the group consisting of metal oxides, ultramarine blue, dark blue, legal pigments, and natural pigments.

Examples of the metal oxide include red iron oxide (iron oxide), yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, chromium oxide and the like.
As legal pigments, Red No. 104, Yellow No. 4, Yellow No. 5, Green No. 3, Blue No. 1, Blue No. 2, Red No. 227, Red No. 230, Yellow 202, Green No. 201, Green No. 204, Blue 205 No., Red No. 401, Red No. 504, Orange No. 402, Yellow No. 403, Yellow No. 407, Green No. 401, Purple No. 401, Black No. 401 and the like.
Examples of natural pigments include β-carotene, calsamine, carmine, chlorophyll, cochineal and the like.

The oil-based cosmetic of the present invention contains spherical silica used as a dispersant or a bulking agent in combination with the polyurethane powder (B-1) and the polyurethane composite powder (B-2) as the component (B) (B). The component / silica (mass ratio) can be used in the range of 1/1 to 1.5 / 1. If it exceeds the above range, the matte effect and usability of the oil-based cosmetics are deteriorated.
The spherical silica that can be used in combination with the component (B) preferably has an average particle size of 3 to 5 μm.

The cosmetics of the present invention may contain various other components generally blended in cosmetics listed below.
Hydrocarbons, squalane, liquid paraffin, petrolatum, solid paraffin, selecin, alkyd, acrylic, sulfonamide resin, nitrocellulose;
Mineral oil, olive oil, almond oil, cacao butter, macadamia nut oil, avocado oil, hardened palm oil, sunflower oil, sunflower oil, evening primrose oil, synthetic triglyceride, wax, sunflower seed wax, honey wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, lanolin, acetate Lanorin, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, synthetic esters, linear / cyclic silicone oils, dimethylpolysiloxane, glycerin monostearate, decamethylcyclopentanesiloxane, polyoxyethylene modified dimethylpolysiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, polyphenylmethyl Siloxane,
Rosinpentaerythritot ester, neopentyl glycol diisooctanoate, glycerin triisooctanoate, isopropyl myristate, propylene glycol monolaurate, glyceryl tri (caprylic acid / capric acid), triethylhexanoin, phenyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyltri Oils such as methicone, hydrogenated polyisobutene, microcrystalline wax;

Purified water, ethanol, isopropanol, polyhydric alcohol, water-soluble polymer, bentonite, polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, butanol;
Moisturizers such as glycerin, propylene glycol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, diglycerin, mannitol, POE methyl glycolide, biopolymers, sucrose;
Emollient components such as cetyl ethylcaproate, diisostearyl malate, dipentaerythrityl tripolyhydroxystearate;

Octyldodecyl myristate, neopentyl glycol diisooctanoate, sorbitan monooleate, glycerin triisooctate, octylmethoxycinnamate, POE sorbitan monooleate, isosetyl, isostearic acid, stearic acid, isopropyl palmitate, acetyltributyl citrate, Trimethylpentanediyl dibenzoate, stearylconium bentonite;
Cellulosic thickeners such as methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, carboxyethyl cellulose, guar gum, pectin, purulan, gelatin, locust bean gum, carrageenan, agar, xanthan gum, polyvinyl Alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone, carboxyvinyl polymer, alkyl methacrylate copolymer, polyethylene glycol, bentonite, alginic acid, propylene glycol alginate, macrogol, sodium chondroitin sulfate, hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, (hydroxyethyl acrylate / acryloyl) Thickeners such as dimethyl taurine Na) copolymer, (acryloyldimethyltaurine ammonium / vinylpyrrolidone) copolymer;

Preservatives, emulsifiers, stabilizers, plasticizers;
Anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, protein-based surfactants;
Medicinal ingredients, vitamin C dipalmitate, vitamins, amino acids, whitening agents, bactericides;
Pigments such as kaolin, mica, sericite, alumina, glass flakes, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, silicic anhydride, barium sulfate, etc.
Nylon powder, polyethylene powder, polymethyl methacrylate, wool powder, cellulose powder, silk powder, silicone powder, starch powder, aluminum powder, spherical nylon, spherical polystyrene, mica titanium, titanium dioxide, titanium oxide, iron oxide, and other powders. body;
Acidity regulator, potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, triethanolamine, magnesium stearate, zinc stearate, metal ion encapsulant, citric acid, sodium citrate, lactate, sodium lactate,
UV absorbers, antioxidants, fragrances, preservatives, chelating agents, antioxidants, dispersants, browning inhibitors, buffers, anti-precipitation ingredients, gelling agents, organically modified clay minerals, usability modifiers, etc. Can be mentioned.

The oily cosmetic of the present invention contains any of the above cosmetic components, and the content of the components (A) to (C) is preferably 5 to 50% by mass, preferably 10 to 30% by mass. More preferably, the component (B) is preferably 10 to 60% by mass, more preferably 20 to 50% by mass, preferably the component (C) is 0.05 to 15% by mass, and preferably 0.05 to 12% by mass. The rest is an arbitrary cosmetic ingredient, and the total is 100% by mass.

The oily cosmetic of the present invention preferably has a total amount of the component (A) and the component (B) of 20 to 70% by mass, more preferably 25 to 50% by mass.
Further, in the oily cosmetic of the present invention, the total amount of the component (A), the component (B) and the component (C) is preferably 30 to 70% by mass, more preferably 30 to 55% by mass. The rest is an arbitrary cosmetic ingredient, and the total is 100% by mass.

The oil-based cosmetic of the present invention
The first step of kneading the oil phase containing the component (A) and the powder phase (I) containing the component (C) and not containing the component (B) to obtain a kneaded product.
The second step of adding the powder phase (II) containing the component (B) and not containing the component (C) to the kneaded product and mixing the mixture to obtain a cosmetic composition.
A third step of heating and defoaming the cosmetic composition while stirring, and then filling or molding the container.
It can be obtained by a method for producing an oily cosmetic having the above.

In the first step, the oil phase containing the component (A) and the powder phase (I) containing the component (C) and not containing the component (B) can be kneaded to obtain a kneaded product.
In addition to the component (A), the oil phase includes any cosmetic component that is liquid or gel-like.
The cosmetic component and the component (A) are melted at 80 to 100 ° C. using a paddle mixer, and a powder phase (I) containing the component (C) and not containing the component (B) is used as an oil phase. And uniformly mixed using a three-roller to obtain a kneaded product in a molten state.
In addition to the component (C), the powder phase (I) may contain a pigment or silica used as a dispersant such as dimethylsilylated silica among any cosmetic components.

In the second step, a powder phase (II) containing the component (B) and not containing the component (C) is added to the kneaded product obtained in the first step, and a paddle mixer is used at 80 to 100 ° C. And mix to obtain a cosmetic composition.
In addition to the component (B), the powder phase (II) is a powder phase (I) such as powder for dispersants / bulking agents such as silica and talc, mica titanium, etc., among any cosmetic components. ) May be contained.

In the third step, the cosmetic composition obtained in the second step is heated to 80 to 100 ° C., defoamed while stirring using a vacuum defoaming machine, and then filled or molded in a container.

The oil-based cosmetic of the present invention has a powder phase (II) containing the component (B) and a powder phase (I) containing the component (C) in the above-mentioned production method, although it depends on the type of the cosmetic. The total content is preferably 30 to 70% by mass, more preferably 35 to 50% by mass in the cosmetic. The balance is the content of the oil phase containing the component (A).

The oily cosmetics of the present invention are applied to so-called matte type makeup cosmetics. Specific examples thereof include those used as make-up cosmetics such as lipstick, eye shadow, concealer, blush, and eye shadow.

Ingredients (A) Dextrin palmitate: Product name "Leopard KL2", manufactured by Chiba Flour Milling Co., Ltd. (B-1) Polyurethane powder: Product name "D-400", manufactured by Toiro Pigment Co., Ltd. (B-2-1) ) Composite powder in which the core made of silicone resin is coated with polyurethane: Product name "US-450", manufactured by Toshiki Pigment Co., Ltd. (B-2-2) (meth) The core made of acrylate derivative is polyurethane. Composite powder coated with: Product name "UP-611", manufactured by Toiro Pigment Co., Ltd.

Silica 1 (spherical): Product name "Sunsphere NP-30", manufactured by AGC Si-Tech Co., Ltd. Silica 2 (spherical): Product name "Sunsphere H-121", manufactured by AGC Si-Tech Co., Ltd. Silica 3 (atypical) : Product name "Silica 740", made by Fuji Silysia Talk: Product name "JA-46R", made by Asada Flour Milling Co., Ltd. Mica titanium: Product name "YM-2300X", made by Yamaguchi Mica Co., Ltd.

Examples 1-2, Comparative Examples 1-5 (concealer)
The oil phase containing the component (A) was melt-mixed at 90 to 100 ° C. A powder phase (I) containing the component (C) was added to the molten oil phase and kneaded three times with a three-roller to obtain a kneaded product. A powder phase (II) containing the component (B) was added to the kneaded product, the temperature was raised to around 90 ° C., and the mixture was stirred and defoamed (15 minutes) to obtain an oily cosmetic composition. The obtained cosmetic composition was filled in a designated container to obtain oil-based cosmetics (concealers) of Examples and Comparative Examples.
The following items were evaluated using the oily cosmetics of Examples and Comparative Examples, and the results are shown in Table 1 (numerical value is mass%).

Examples 3-4, Comparative Example 6 (lipstick)
Oily cosmetics (lipsticks) of Examples and Comparative Examples were obtained by the same production method as in Example 1.
The following items were evaluated using the oily cosmetics of Examples and Comparative Examples, and the results are shown in Table 2 (numerical value is mass%).

Evaluation of oil-based cosmetics / stability of cosmetics (appearance)
The cosmetics of Examples and Comparative Examples were allowed to stand in a constant temperature bath at 40 ° C. for 1 month, and the appearance was visually observed.
The evaluation was made according to the following criteria.

◯: No change ×: Change (brown)

・ Stability (hardness) of cosmetics
The cosmetics of Examples and Comparative Examples were prepared by using the physical property measuring instrument Leotex: SD-700II to fill the cosmetic container with the cosmetics or after molding, and then let them stand in a constant temperature bath at 30 ° C. for 6 hours. The hardness (initial value) and the hardness (time value) after allowing the cosmetic to stand in a constant temperature bath at 40 ° C. for 4 weeks were measured.
The evaluation was made according to the following criteria.

◯: Must be in the range of −0.3 ≦ equation (1-time value / initial value) ≦ 0.3.
X: The formula (1-time value / initial value) is less than -0.3 or more than 0.3.

-Evaluation of finish (matte effect) The cosmetics of Examples and Comparative Examples were applied to the facial surfaces of five female panelists evaluated for cosmetics, and after applying the concealer, the applied surface was visually observed.
The evaluation was based on the following criteria as to whether an unnatural matte texture was obtained.

○: Good △: Normal ×: Bad

-Evaluation of usability (elongation, squeaky feeling after application) The cosmetics of Examples and Comparative Examples were applied to the face surfaces of five female panelists who evaluated cosmetics, and the usability (elongation, squeaky feeling after application) was applied. Feeling) was evaluated according to the following criteria.

○: Good △: Normal ×: Bad

In addition to Examples 1 to 4, a prescription example of the cosmetic of the present invention is shown below.

Prescription example 1 (eye shadow)
An oily cosmetic (eye shadow) was obtained from each component shown in Table 3 by the same production method as in Example 1.

Prescription example 2 (foundation)
An oily cosmetic (foundation) was obtained for each component shown in Table 4 by the same production method as in Example 1.

The oily cosmetics of the present invention can be suitably used for so-called matte type makeup cosmetics.

Claims (5)

(A) Gelling agent containing a polysaccharide fatty acid ester derivative,
(B) A combination of polyurethane powder (B-1) and a composite powder (B-2) in which a core composed of a polymer component other than polyurethane is coated with polyurethane , or a core composed of a polymer component other than polyurethane is used. be an oily cosmetic containing composite powder polyurethane formed by coating the (B-2),
The composite powder of the component (B-2) has a core made of (B-2-1) silicone resin coated with polyurethane, or a core made of (B-2-1) silicone resin. An oil-based cosmetic that is a combination of a polyurethane-coated one and a polyurethane-coated core made of a (B-2-2) (meth) acrylate derivative . Component (B) containing 10 to 60 wt%, claim 1 oily cosmetic according. The component (B) is a combination of the component (B-1) and the component (B-2), and the component (B-1) and the component (B-2) are (B-1) / (B-2). The oily cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2 , which comprises the range of (mass ratio) = 4/1 to 1/4. (B-2-1) component of the silicone resin is an average particle size 0.3~5μm powdered claim 1 oily cosmetic according. (C) The oily cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 4 , which contains one or more colorants selected from the group consisting of metal oxides, ultramarine blue, dark blue, legal pigments, and natural pigments. ..