JP2024055506A - Oil-based solid cosmetics - Google Patents

Abstract

[Problem] To provide an oil-based solid cosmetic having excellent lasting properties and usability, as well as sufficient storage stability with little change in appearance and fluctuation in hardness. [Solution] The oil-based solid cosmetic contains (A) a stabilizer containing one or more of hydrogenated castor oil, a monohydric alcohol having 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and a jojoba ester, (B) a solid oil (excluding those corresponding to component (A)), and (C) a volatile silicone oil, and the mass ratio (A/B) of component (A) to component (B) is 1/50 to 1/9. [Selected Figure] None

Description

The present invention relates to an oil-based solid cosmetic preparation.

Oil-based solid cosmetics used in eyeliners, eyebrows, concealers, etc. often contain non-volatile ingredients such as solid oils, liquid oils, film-forming agents, and coloring materials, as well as volatile ingredients such as volatile oils, and as the volatile ingredients evaporate, a uniform coating film containing non-volatile ingredients such as coloring materials can be formed. Furthermore, in such cosmetics, the film-forming agents provide long-lasting makeup and resistance to color transfer (lasting properties) (see, for example, Patent Document 1 below).

Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 8-157324

In general, in oil-based solid cosmetics, adjustments are made such as reducing the amount of solid oil or increasing the amount of liquid oil, taking into consideration usability such as spreadability when applied and suppression of stickiness, but in the case of oil-based solid cosmetics containing volatile oils, the appearance tends to change easily, such as the oil easily seeping out during storage. Furthermore, according to the studies of the present inventors, it was found that the hardness of oil-based solid cosmetics containing volatile oils can vary greatly in temperature cycle tests that repeatedly switch between low and high temperatures. To address these problems, simply increasing the amount of solid oil or reducing the amount of volatile oil will impair usability and lasting properties.

The present invention was made in consideration of the above circumstances, and aims to provide an oil-based solid cosmetic product that has excellent lasting properties and usability, and has sufficient storage stability with little change in appearance and fluctuation in hardness.

To solve the above problems, the present invention provides an oil-based solid cosmetic preparation that contains (A) a stabilizer containing one or more of hydrogenated castor oil, a monohydric alcohol having 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and a jojoba ester, (B) a solid oil (excluding those that fall under component (A)), and (C) a volatile silicone oil, and the mass ratio (A/B) of component (A) to component (B) is 1/50 to 1/9.

The oil-based solid cosmetic of the present invention may further contain a coating agent (D). In this case, the oil-based solid cosmetic may further contain a powder component (E), and the total content of the components (D) and (E) may be 25 to 80% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic.

The oil-based solid cosmetic of the present invention may have a content of component (A) of 0.1 to 2 mass % based on the total amount of the cosmetic.

The present invention makes it possible to provide an oil-based solid cosmetic product that has excellent lasting properties and usability, and also has sufficient storage stability with minimal changes in appearance and hardness.

In addition, the oil-based solid cosmetic of the present invention can form a stick-shaped cosmetic with sufficient hardness, and in addition to the above-mentioned properties, this stick-shaped cosmetic has sufficient strength to satisfy a drop test.

The oil-based solid cosmetic of this embodiment contains (A) a stabilizer containing one or more of hydrogenated castor oil, a monohydric alcohol having 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and jojoba ester (hereinafter sometimes referred to as component (A)), (B) a solid oil (excluding those that fall under component (A)) (hereinafter sometimes referred to as component (B)), and (C) a volatile silicone oil (hereinafter sometimes referred to as component (C)).

<(A) Stabilizer>
(A1) hydrogenated castor oil (hereinafter sometimes referred to as (A1) component) is obtained by hydrogenating castor oil, and can be used without any particular limitation as long as it is used in cosmetics. As the hydrogenated castor oil, commercially available products such as Castor Hardened Oil A (product name, manufactured by Ito Oil Mills, Ltd.), Castor Wax A Flake (product name, manufactured by NOF Corporation), and Castor Hard (product name, manufactured by KF Trading Co., Ltd.) can be used.

(A2) The monohydric alcohol having 10 to 24 carbon atoms (hereinafter sometimes referred to as the (A2) component) may be a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic alcohol. Examples of the (A2) component include lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and oleyl alcohol. From the viewpoint of hardness stability against temperature changes, the (A2) component may be a linear saturated aliphatic alcohol having 14 to 22 carbon atoms, a linear saturated aliphatic alcohol having 14 to 18 carbon atoms, or a linear saturated aliphatic alcohol having 16 to 18 carbon atoms. The (A2) component may be a mixture of two or more types, or may be cetearyl alcohol.

(A3) Jojoba ester (hereinafter sometimes referred to as component (A3)) includes partially hydrogenated jojoba ester and fully hydrogenated jojoba ester obtained by hydrogenating jojoba oil. From the viewpoint of suppressing fluctuations in hardness, component (A3) may be partially hydrogenated jojoba ester. As such ester oil, for example, commercially available products such as FLORAESTERS 20, FLORAESTERS 30, and FLORAESTERS 60 (all of which are product names manufactured by INTERNATIONAL FLORA TECHNOLOGIES) can be used.

The oil-based solid cosmetic of this embodiment may contain component (A1) as component (A) from the viewpoint of suppressing fluctuations in hardness.

The blending amount of component (A) in the oil-based solid cosmetic of this embodiment may be 0.1 to 2 mass %, 0.2 to 1.5 mass %, or 0.3 to 1 mass %, based on the total amount of the cosmetic. When the blending amount of component (A) is within these ranges, it becomes easy to achieve a high level of both excellent lasting properties and usability, and storage stability with little fluctuation in hardness.

<(B) Solid Oil>
The (B) component may be one or more solid oils that are generally used in cosmetics, such as hydrocarbon waxes and vegetable waxes, that may be blended in combination. In this specification, the term "solid oil" refers to oil that does not exhibit fluidity at 40°C. The solid oil may have a melting point of 40°C or higher. The melting point of the solid oil is measured by the following method.

Approximately 5 mg of the sample is weighed out and placed in an aluminum sample pan. An aluminum cover is attached to this pan and placed in a differential scanning calorimeter "DSC7020" (Hitachi High-Tech Science, product name). Using an electric cooling unit "Polyscience" (Hitachi High-Tech Science, product name), the sample and reference sample are held at -10°C for 1 minute under a nitrogen gas flow rate of 30-35 mL/min, then heated from 0°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 10°C/min, cooled from 120°C to -10°C at a cooling rate of -10°C/min, held at -10°C for 5 minutes, and then heated again from -10°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 10°C/min to obtain a melting endothermic curve. The peak temperature of the melting endothermic curve in this second heating is taken as the melting point.

Examples of solid oils include synthetic waxes such as polyethylene wax, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, candelilla wax hydrocarbons, sunflower seed wax, rice wax, Japan wax, beeswax, spermaceti, and higher fatty acids.

From the viewpoint of shape retention, the melting point of component (B) may be 50 to 120°C or 60 to 110°C.

From the viewpoint of shape retention, the blending amount of component (B) in the oil-based solid cosmetic of this embodiment may be 5 to 30% by mass, 10 to 20% by mass, or 12 to 18% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic.

In the oil-based solid cosmetic of this embodiment, from the viewpoint of achieving both excellent lasting properties and ease of use, and sufficient storage stability with minimal changes in appearance and hardness, the mass ratio (A/B) of component (A) to component (B) can be set to 1/50 to 1/9, or may be set to 1/45 to 1/10, and from the viewpoint of further minimizing hardness fluctuation, (A/B) may be set to 1/35 to 1/13.

The inventors consider the reason why component (A) functions as a stabilizer in the oil-based solid cosmetic of this embodiment and exhibits the above-mentioned effects (particularly the ability to stabilize the hardness of the cosmetic) to be as follows. It is believed that by blending component (A), which has a relatively low compatibility with volatile silicone oil, in the above ratio relative to the solid oil in a system containing solid oil and volatile silicone oil, it is possible to finely crystallize the solid oil (e.g., wax), and it is presumed that this makes it possible to form a solid cosmetic with sufficient strength even with an amount of solid oil that does not feel sticky in a system containing a sufficient amount of volatile silicone oil that can disperse a coating agent well.

<(C) Volatile Silicone Oil>
Examples of component (C) include low molecular weight linear silicones such as dimethylpolysiloxane, cyclic silicones such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and branched silicones such as methyltrimethicone.

The boiling point of component (C) at 1 atmosphere (101.325 kPa) may be 250°C or less, 210°C or less, or 200°C or less.

Component (C) can be used alone or in combination of two or more types.

From the viewpoint of lasting properties, the blending amount of component (C) in the oil-based solid cosmetic of this embodiment may be 10 to 40% by mass, 15 to 35% by mass, or 20 to 30% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic.

In the oil-based solid cosmetic of this embodiment, from the viewpoint of hardness stability against temperature changes, the mass ratio (A/C) of component (A) to component (C) may be 1/150 to 1/20, and from the viewpoint of achieving both lasting properties and hardness stability against temperature changes, (A/C) may be 1/125 to 1/23, or may be 1/60 to 1/23.

From the viewpoint of achieving both lasting properties and ease of use, the oil-based solid cosmetic of this embodiment may further contain (D) a film-forming agent (hereinafter, sometimes referred to as component (D)).

<(D) Coating Agent>
Examples of component (D) include silicone resins such as trimethylsiloxysilicate and polyalkylsilsesquioxane, silicone coating agents such as acrylic-silicone resins such as (acrylates/stearyl acrylate/dimethicone methacrylate) copolymer and (acrylates/dimethicone) copolymer, and candelilla resin.

From the viewpoint of lasting properties, the oil-based solid cosmetic of this embodiment can contain a silicone-based film-forming agent as component (D).

From the viewpoint of achieving both lasting properties and ease of use, the blending amount of component (D) in the oil-based solid cosmetic of this embodiment may be 10 to 50% by mass, 15 to 40% by mass, or 20 to 35% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic.

The oil-based solid cosmetic of this embodiment may further contain (E) a powder component depending on the application.

<(E) Powder component>
The powder component is not particularly limited as long as it is one that is usually used in cosmetics, such as body filler powder and color pigment.

Examples of the filler powder include inorganic powder, synthetic inorganic powder, organic powder, metal soap, synthetic polymer powder, etc. More specifically, examples include mica, kaolin, sericite, talc, gold mica, synthetic mica, silica, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, aluminum oxide, boron nitride, zinc stearate, aluminum stearate, zinc myristate, polyethylene powder, urethane beads, polymethyl methacrylate, organopolysiloxane elastomer, etc. The shape of the filler powder is not particularly limited, but for example, a spherical powder with an average particle size of 1 to 50 μm can be used.

Coloring pigments include red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, cobalt oxide, ultramarine, Prussian blue, titanium oxide, zinc oxide, pearl pigments (titanium mica, fish scale foil, bismuth oxychloride, etc.), organic pigments (Red No. 228, Red No. 226, Blue No. 404, Red No. 202, Yellow No. 4 Aluminum Lake, etc.), and natural colors (carmine, safflower, etc.).

From the viewpoints of usability and color development, the blending amount of component (E) in the oil-based solid cosmetic of this embodiment may be 20 to 45% by mass, 15 to 50% by mass, or 25 to 40% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic.

In the oil-based solid cosmetic of this embodiment, the combination of the above-mentioned components (A) and (B) makes it easy to ensure storage stability even when the components (D) and (E) are included, so the total content of the components (D) and (E) may be 25 to 80% by mass, 40 to 70% by mass, or 50 to 60% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic.

The oil-based solid cosmetic of this embodiment may further contain other oil-based components in addition to the components described above.

<Other oily ingredients>
As the other oily components, for example, paste oils and liquid oils that are usually used in cosmetics can be used, and these can be blended either alone or in combination of two or more kinds.

Examples of paste-like oils include petrolatum, dipentaerythrityl hexa(hydroxystearate/stearic acid/rosin acid), dipentaerythrityl tetra(hydroxystearate/isostearate), dipentaerythrityl pentaisostearate, dipentaerythrityl hexahydroxystearate, tri(caprylic acid/capric acid/myristic acid/stearic acid)glyceryl, hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, phytosteryl oleate, sucrose hexa(oleic acid/palmitic acid/stearic acid), phytosteryl macadamiate, and bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2.

Examples of liquid oils include cetyl ethylhexanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, triethylhexanoin, isotridecyl isononanoate, isostearyl isostearate, neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate, tri(caprylic/capric acid)glyceryl, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, propanediol diisostearate, trimethylolpropane triethylhexanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, octyldodecyl stearoyloxystearate, diisostearyl malate, and triisopropyl ether. Examples of such oils include ester oils such as polyglyceryl isostearate, dipentaerythrityl pentaisostearate, and trimethylolpropane triisostearate; non-volatile silicone oils such as dimethicone and diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone (methylphenylpolysiloxane); hydrocarbon oils such as liquid paraffin, squalane, olefin oligomer, liquid paraffin, squalane, and hydrogenated polyisobutene; vegetable oils such as sunflower seed oil, jojoba seed oil, olive oil, and castor oil; and higher alcohols other than component (A2).

The total content of the paste oil and liquid oil in the oil-based solid cosmetic of this embodiment can be 0 to 30% by mass, or 1 to 20% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetic.

<Other ingredients>
In addition to the above-mentioned components (A) to (E) and other oily components, the oil-based solid cosmetic preparation of this embodiment may contain other components typically used in cosmetics, such as moisturizers, surfactants, UV absorbers, preservatives, vitamins, cosmetic ingredients, antioxidants, fragrances, etc., as necessary, within the scope that does not impair the effects of the present invention.

The oily solid cosmetic preparation of the present embodiment may have a hardness at 25° C. measured under the following conditions of 0.1 to 2.5 N, 0.2 to 2.3 N, or 0.5 to 2.1 N.
Measuring device: Rheometer (manufactured by Rheotec Co., Ltd.)
Measurement conditions: tip shape of pressure-sensitive shaft: disk with diameter of 1 mm, penetration speed: 6 cm/min, penetration depth: 10 mm

The uses of the oil-based solid cosmetic according to this embodiment are not particularly limited, but include makeup cosmetics such as lipstick, foundation, blush, concealer, eye shadow, eyeliner, eyebrow, mascara, makeup base, and hair color, as well as skin care cosmetics such as lip cream, lip balm, eye cream, moisturizing cream, and sunscreen.

The oil-based solid cosmetic according to this embodiment may be molded into a rod-like shape such as a stick or pencil, or may be filled directly into a container such as a tray. Rod-like oil-based solid cosmetic is suitable for use as, for example, an eyebrow pencil, eyeliner, lip liner, concealer pencil, eyeshadow pencil, etc.

The method for producing the oil-based solid cosmetic product according to this embodiment can be, for example, a method in which the cosmetic base material obtained by mixing the above-mentioned components (A), (B), and (C), and, if necessary, the components (D), (E), and other components, is filled into a specified container or mold, and then solidified.

The specified container into which the cosmetic base material is filled can be, for example, a metal dish, a resin dish, or other inner plate. These inner plates can be attached directly to the compact container after the oil-based solid cosmetic material has been formed. It is also possible to fill the compact container or jar container directly.

A rod-shaped oil-based solid cosmetic can be manufactured, for example, by the following procedure. First, the powder components are added to a mixture of liquid and solid oil components that have been heated and melted. This is then dispersed using a rolling mill or the like, and a volatile oil agent and a coating agent are added and mixed uniformly to obtain a cosmetic base material. Next, a molding process such as extrusion molding or melt-fill molding is performed to form the cosmetic base material into a rod shape. Note that since the cosmetic base material according to this embodiment contains a volatile oil agent such as component (C), it may be melt-fill molded using a mold, or directly melt-fill molded into a cylindrical container.

The present invention will be described in more detail below with reference to examples, but the scope of the present invention is not limited to these examples.

Before going into the examples, we will explain the evaluation methods used in each example.

(1) Initial Hardness of Cosmetic Preparation The bulk hardness of the cosmetic preparation at 25° C. was measured using a rheometer (manufactured by Rheotec Corporation) under the following conditions.
[Measurement condition]
Tip shape of pressure-sensitive shaft: disk with diameter of 1 mm, penetration speed: 6 cm/min, penetration depth: 10 mm

(2) Storage stability (fluctuation in hardness)
A jar was filled with 20 g of the cosmetic material, and the cosmetic material was stored in a cyclic thermostatic chamber at 5° C. to 40° C. for 4 weeks. After storage, the hardness of the cosmetic material was measured in the same manner as for the initial hardness. The rate of change in hardness relative to the initial hardness, defined by the following formula, was calculated, and the storage stability was evaluated in terms of the change in hardness according to the following criteria.
Hardness fluctuation rate (%) = [initial hardness - hardness after storage] x 100 / initial hardness [criterion]
◎: Fluctuation rate from initial hardness is ±0% or more and 20% or less. ○: Fluctuation rate from initial hardness is ±20% or more and 40% or less. ×: Fluctuation rate from initial hardness is ±40% or more.

(3) Storage stability (change in appearance)
20 g of the cosmetic was filled into a jar and stored for 4 weeks at 50° C. The condition of the cosmetic after storage was visually confirmed, and the storage stability was evaluated in terms of changes in appearance according to the following criteria.
[Judgment criteria]
◎: No oil seepage or sweating is observed. ○: Slight oil seepage or sweating is observed. △: Oil seepage or sweating is observed. ×: Significant oil seepage or sweating is observed.

(4) Lasting property Each cosmetic was applied uniformly to a Bioskin Plate (manufactured by Viewlux) over an area of 1 cm x 3 cm. After 10 minutes, paper was pressed against the applied area, and the degree of adhesion of the cosmetic was visually evaluated using the following four-point scale.
[Judgment criteria]
◎: No cosmetic is found to adhere to the paper. ○: A small amount of cosmetic is found to adhere to the paper. △: A small amount of cosmetic is found to adhere to the paper. ×: More than half of the applied cosmetic is adhered to the paper.

(5) Usability A panel of 10 experts used the cosmetics and asked them to rate them on a 5-point scale from 1 to 5 (1 being the worst and 5 being the best) from the standpoints of the ease of spreading when applied and the lack of stickiness when applied and immediately after application. Usability was evaluated by calculating the average score of all the panelists and judging according to the following evaluation criteria.
[Evaluation criteria]
◎: Average score is 4.5 points or more ○: Average score is 3.5 points or more and less than 4.5 points △: Average score is 1.5 points or more and less than 3.5 points ×: Average score is less than 1.5 points

(6) Drop Strength The molded stick-shaped cosmetic preparation was attached to a feeding-type pencil container, left to stand at 25° C. for 24 hours, and then dropped horizontally from a height of 50 cm five times. The appearance of the stick-shaped cosmetic preparation after the drop was visually confirmed, and the drop strength was evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria.
[Evaluation criteria]
◎: No abnormality ○: Slight bending is observed △: Small chipping or bending (but still able to be pulled out from the container) ×: Breaking or bending that makes it impossible to pull out from the container

(Examples 1 to 14 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4)
Oil-based solid cosmetic preparations (eyeliners) having the compositions (mass%) shown in Tables 1 to 3 were prepared by the following manufacturing method and evaluated as described above. The results are also shown in Tables 1 to 3.

<Production Method>
The powder components were added to the liquid and solid oil components that had been heated and melted, and the mixture was dispersed using a roller or the like. The volatile oil and film-forming agent were then added and mixed uniformly to obtain a cosmetic base material. The cosmetic base material was then molded into a rod shape using a mold by melt-filling molding.

Details of each component in Tables 1 to 3 are as follows.
Candelilla wax hydrocarbon: "Candelilla wax hydrocarbon FC-31" (product name of Japan Natural Products Co., Ltd.)
Polyethylene wax (synthetic wax): "PERFORMA SW-87 Synthetic Wax" (product name of NuCera Solutions LLC)
Jojoba ester: "FLORAESTERS 30" (product name, partially hydrogenated jojoba ester, manufactured by INTERNATIONAL FLORA TECHNOLOGIES)
Dipentaerythrityl pentaisostearate: "Salacos DP518N" (product name, manufactured by Nisshin Oillio Group, Ltd.)
Diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone: "KF-56A" (product name of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)
Powder component-1: Black iron oxide, red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, titanium oxide, synthetic mica, borosilicate (Ca/Al)

As shown in Tables 1 and 2, the cosmetics obtained in Examples 1 to 14 were rated as "○" or "◎" for storage stability (fluctuation in hardness), storage stability (change in appearance), lasting properties, usability, and drop strength.

Example 13: Eyeliner
(Components) (Mixing ratio (mass%))
1. Hydrogenated castor oil 1.0
2. Candelilla wax hydrocarbons 2.0
3. Polyethylene wax (synthetic wax) 7.0
4. Methyl trimethicone 20.0
5. Trimethylsiloxysilicate 24.0
6. Dipentaerythrityl pentaisostearate 1.5
7. Diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone 9.5
8. Powder component-1 35.0

The above ingredients are the same as those shown in Tables 1 to 3.

<Production Method>
The liquid and solid oily components (components 1 to 3, 6, and 7) were heated and melted, to which the powder component (component 8) was added, and the mixture was dispersed using a roller or the like, after which a volatile oil agent (component 4) and a film-forming agent (component 5) were added and mixed uniformly to obtain a cosmetic base material. The cosmetic base material was then molded into a rod shape by melt-filling molding using a metal mold, to obtain an eyeliner.

<Evaluation>
The obtained eyeliner was evaluated in the same manner as above, and the results were as follows: initial hardness: 1.35 N@25°C, storage stability (fluctuation in hardness) "○", storage stability (change in appearance) "○", lasting property "○", usability "○", and drop strength "◎".

Claims (4)

(A) a stabilizer containing one or more of hydrogenated castor oil, a monohydric alcohol having 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and a jojoba ester; (B) a solid oil (excluding those corresponding to the component (A)); and (C) a volatile silicone oil,
The oil-based solid cosmetic preparation has a mass ratio (A/B) of the component (A) to the component (B) of 1/50 to 1/9. The oil-based solid cosmetic according to claim 1, further comprising (D) a film-forming agent. (E) further comprising a powder component,
3. The oily solid cosmetic preparation according to claim 2, wherein the total content of the component (D) and the component (E) is 25 to 80% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic preparation. The oil-based solid cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the content of component (A) is 0.1 to 2 mass% based on the total amount of the cosmetic.