KR20230059223A - Dyeing method of natural dye using CPB process - Google Patents
Dyeing method of natural dye using CPB process Download PDFInfo
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- KR20230059223A KR20230059223A KR1020210143182A KR20210143182A KR20230059223A KR 20230059223 A KR20230059223 A KR 20230059223A KR 1020210143182 A KR1020210143182 A KR 1020210143182A KR 20210143182 A KR20210143182 A KR 20210143182A KR 20230059223 A KR20230059223 A KR 20230059223A
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- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 90
- 229930182559 Natural dye Natural products 0.000 title claims abstract description 46
- 239000000978 natural dye Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 46
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 38
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 78
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 30
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 27
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 26
- 230000032683 aging Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 20
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 239000012535 impurity Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 238000012805 post-processing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 47
- HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[Na+] HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 39
- MHAJPDPJQMAIIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hydrogen peroxide Chemical compound OO MHAJPDPJQMAIIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 18
- 238000009991 scouring Methods 0.000 claims description 18
- 230000002745 absorbent Effects 0.000 claims description 13
- 239000002250 absorbent Substances 0.000 claims description 13
- GRLPQNLYRHEGIJ-UHFFFAOYSA-J potassium aluminium sulfate Chemical compound [Al+3].[K+].[O-]S([O-])(=O)=O.[O-]S([O-])(=O)=O GRLPQNLYRHEGIJ-UHFFFAOYSA-J 0.000 claims description 11
- 238000000746 purification Methods 0.000 claims description 11
- 238000012545 processing Methods 0.000 claims description 10
- 239000003381 stabilizer Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 241000123069 Ocyurus chrysurus Species 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000007844 bleaching agent Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000012546 transfer Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000013040 bath agent Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000003287 bathing Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 abstract description 6
- 238000010014 continuous dyeing Methods 0.000 abstract description 2
- 239000000983 mordant dye Substances 0.000 abstract 1
- 238000007781 pre-processing Methods 0.000 abstract 1
- 235000013399 edible fruits Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 4
- 238000004061 bleaching Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 3
- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000000985 reactive dye Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000007670 refining Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000002699 waste material Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004952 Polyamide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000012356 Product development Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229940037003 alum Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229910052782 aluminium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000011324 bead Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000007796 conventional method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000003599 detergent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000011161 development Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000018109 developmental process Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000002845 discoloration Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000005265 energy consumption Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000007654 immersion Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000012986 modification Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229920002647 polyamide Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 description 1
- -1 potassium aluminum sulfate potassium aluminum sulfate Chemical compound 0.000 description 1
- 238000002203 pretreatment Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000012629 purifying agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 238000001179 sorption measurement Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002351 wastewater Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000037303 wrinkles Effects 0.000 description 1
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/34—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using natural dyestuffs
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B19/00—Treatment of textile materials by liquids, gases or vapours, not provided for in groups D06B1/00 - D06B17/00
- D06B19/0005—Fixing of chemicals, e.g. dyestuffs, on textile materials
- D06B19/0029—Fixing of chemicals, e.g. dyestuffs, on textile materials by steam
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
- D06B3/10—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C3/00—Stretching, tentering or spreading textile fabrics; Producing elasticity in textile fabrics
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06L—DRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
- D06L4/00—Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs
- D06L4/70—Multi-step processes
- D06L4/75—Multi-step processes combined with cleaning or washing
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/36—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using mordant dyes ; using metallisable dyes
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
- D06P5/001—Special chemical aspects of printing textile materials
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
- D06P5/02—After-treatment
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
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Abstract
Description
본 발명은 CPB공정을 이용한 천연염료의 염색방법에 관한것으로서, 보다 상세하게는 연속 염색방법의 한 분야인 콜드패드배치(Cold Pad Batch, CPB)공정을 활용하여 전처리한 원단을 매염처리를 우선적으로 진행하고 숙성을 통해 매염효과를 극대화하는 천연염료를 활용한 염색의 최적공정을 제공할 수 있는 CPB공정을 이용한 천연염료의 염색방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a method for dyeing natural dyes using a CPB process, and more particularly, to preferentially mordant a fabric pretreated by utilizing a Cold Pad Batch (CPB) process, which is one of the continuous dyeing methods. It relates to a dyeing method of natural dyes using a CPB process that can provide an optimal process of dyeing using natural dyes that maximizes the mordant effect through progress and aging.
현재까지 천연 염색은 주로 배치식(Batch) 침염방법으로 진행되어 왔으며, 대표적인 천연 염색 제품인 면직물 니트의 경우, 주름발생과 불균염, 필링발생, 견뢰도 불량 등의 단점으로 제품 전개에 많은 애로 사항이 있었다.Until now, natural dyeing has been conducted mainly by the batch dyeing method, and in the case of cotton fabric knit, which is a representative natural dyeing product, there have been many difficulties in product development due to disadvantages such as wrinkles, uneven dyeing, pilling, and poor color fastness. .
한편, 반응성 염료의 염색방법 중 콜드패드배치(Cold Pad Batch; CPB)법은 생산 및 관리에 장점을 갖는 염색방법으로서 종래 배치식(batch) 침염에 비해 작업 공정 관리와 설비가 간편하고, 침염 염색방법에 비해서 염료 흡착율이 높으며, 낮은 온도에서 염색이 가능하므로 에너지 소비량이 적으면서 높은 생산성을 가지는 등 매우 경제적일 뿐만 아니라 낮은 욕비 하에서 작업이 진행되므로 이로 인한 발생되는 폐수가 적어 환경 친화적인 장점을 가지는 염색방법으로 알려져 있다.On the other hand, among the dyeing methods of reactive dyes, the Cold Pad Batch (CPB) method is a dyeing method that has advantages in production and management. Compared to other methods, the dye adsorption rate is higher and dyeing is possible at a lower temperature, so it is not only very economical, such as low energy consumption and high productivity, but also has the advantage of being environment-friendly because there is little wastewater generated due to the operation under a low bath ratio. It is known as a dyeing method.
이러한 CPB염색공법을 활용한 천연염료의 염색방법으로 대한민국등록특허공보 제10-1380374호에 'CPB 공정을 활용한 천연염료의 염색방법'이 개시되어 있다. 그러나, 상기 염색방법은 CPB공정을 활용하여 천연염료로 패딩(padding)공정을 거친다음 매염제를 통해 패딩(padding)처리하여 염료를 고착시키는 것으로, 염료가 고착되어 있지 않은 상태에서 매염제를 패딩(padding)하게 되므로 인해 매염액에 원단에 붙어있는 염료가 기어나와 불균염의 원인이 되고 선명한 색상발현이 어려운 단점이 있다. As a dyeing method of natural dyes using the CPB dyeing method, Korean Patent Registration No. 10-1380374 discloses a 'dyeing method of natural dyes using the CPB process'. However, the dyeing method utilizes a CPB process to undergo a padding process with natural dyes and then performs padding with a mordant to fix the dye. ), so the dye attached to the fabric crawls out of the mordant solution, causing uneven dyeing, and it is difficult to express vivid colors.
본 발명은 상기한 종래 기술의 문제점을 해결하기 위하여 안출한 것으로서, 천연염료의 패딩공정전 매염제의 선매염공정을 진행함으로써 매염효과, 즉 염료의 고착효과를 극대화하여 선명한 색상발현을 구현할 수 있는 최적의 CPB공정을 이용한 천연염료의 염색방법을 제공하는 것을 그 해결과제로 한다. The present invention has been devised to solve the above-mentioned problems of the prior art, and by proceeding with the pre-mordanting process of the mordant before the padding process of the natural dye, it maximizes the mordant effect, that is, the fixation effect of the dye, to realize vivid color expression. Its solution is to provide a dyeing method of natural dyes using the CPB process of.
상기한 과제를 해결한 본 발명에 따른 CPB공정을 이용한 천연염료의 염색방법은 생지원단을 준비하고 상기 원단의 잡물을 제거하는 전처리 공정;과, 상기 전처리된 원단을 텐터(Tenter)에서 190±5℃의 온도 조건하에 텐터링(tentering)하여 건조하는 텐터공정;과, 상기 건조된 원단을 매염제에 패딩(padding)하는 매염공정;과, 상기 매염처리된 원단을 12시간 이상 숙성하는 숙성공정;과, 상기 숙성이 완료된 원단을 수세한 다음, 180~195℃의 온도조건하에 건조하는 수세 및 건조공정;과 상기 매염제 처리된 원단을 천연염료로 패딩(padding)하여 염료를 고착시키는 천연염료 염색공정;과 상기 천연염료의 염색이 완료된 후 미고착 염료를 제거하기 위한 수세공정;과 상기 수세공정이 완료된 원단을 가공하는 후가공 공정을 포함하여 이루어진다. The dyeing method of natural dyes using the CPB process according to the present invention that solves the above problems is a pretreatment step of preparing raw fabric and removing impurities from the fabric; and, the pretreated fabric is 190 ± 5 A tenter process of tentering and drying under a temperature condition of ° C; a mordant process of padding the dried fabric with a mordant; and an aging process of aging the mordant-treated fabric for 12 hours or more; and A washing and drying step of washing the aged fabric with water and then drying it under a temperature condition of 180 to 195 ° C; and a natural dye dyeing step of fixing the dye by padding the mordant-treated fabric with a natural dye; and a water washing step for removing the unfixed dye after the dyeing of the natural dye is completed; and a post-processing step of processing the fabric upon which the water washing step is completed.
여기서, 상기 전처리 공정은 패딩공정, 숙성공정 및 연속수세기 수세공정으로 이루어지며,Here, the pretreatment process consists of a padding process, a aging process, and a continuous water washing process,
상기 패딩공정은 준비된 생지원단을 정련제 1~2중량%, 정수제 1중량%, 흡수제 0.1중량%, 수산화나트륨 1~2중량%를 포함하는 정련욕제에 침지시켜 패딩속도 15~30m/min의 속도조건으로 원단의 잡물을 제거하는 연속정련, In the padding process, the prepared raw fabric is immersed in a scouring bath agent containing 1 to 2% by weight of a scouring agent, 1% by weight of a water purification agent, 0.1% by weight of an absorbent, and 1 to 2% by weight of sodium hydroxide at a padding speed of 15 to 30 m/min. Continuous scouring to remove impurities from the fabric under the condition,
또는 준비된 생지원단을 과산화수소 2~5중량%, 과수안정제 1~3중량%, 정련제 1~2중량%, 정수제 1중량%, 흡수제 0.1중량%, 수산화나트륨 1~2중량%를 포함하는 표백제에 입욕시켜 15~30m/min이 패딩속도 조건으로 표백하는 것, Alternatively, the prepared raw fabric is added to a bleaching agent containing 2 to 5% by weight of hydrogen peroxide, 1 to 3% by weight of a water stabilizer, 1 to 2% by weight of a scouring agent, 1% by weight of a water purification agent, 0.1% by weight of an absorbent, and 1 to 2% by weight of sodium hydroxide Bathing and bleaching under the condition of a padding speed of 15 to 30 m/min,
또는 준비된 생지원단을 과산화수소 2~5중량%, 과수안정제 1~3중량%, 정련제 1~2중량%, 정수제 1중량%, 흡수제 1중량%, 수산화나트륨 10~40중량%를 포함하는 실켓가공제가 구비된 실켓가공장치에 15~30m/min의 패딩속도로 공급하여 실켓가공하는 공정 중 어느 하나의 공정으로 이루어지며, Alternatively, the prepared raw fabric is processed into a silket containing 2 to 5% by weight of hydrogen peroxide, 1 to 3% by weight of a water stabilizer, 1 to 2% by weight of a scouring agent, 1% by weight of a water purification agent, 1% by weight of an absorbent, and 10 to 40% by weight of sodium hydroxide It is made by any one of the processes of processing the silket by supplying it to the silket processing device equipped with a padding speed of 15 to 30 m/min,
상기 숙성공정은 상기 패딩공정이 완료된 원단을 상온이 유지된 장소에서 원단이 묻어 있는 전처리액이 아래로 흘러 내지리 않도록 회전시키며 온도 20~30℃의 조건하에 0~24시간 숙성시키며,In the aging process, the fabric after the padding process is rotated in a place where the room temperature is maintained so that the pretreatment liquid buried in the fabric does not flow downward, and aged for 0 to 24 hours under conditions of a temperature of 20 to 30 ° C.
상기 연속수세기 수세공정은 상기 숙성이 완료된 원단을 스팀온도 25~100℃, 이송속도 15~25m/min의 조건으로 5분~10분동안 스팀처리한 다음, 95±5℃의 세척수로 수세처리하는 것을 특징으로 한다. In the continuous water washing process, the aged fabric is steamed for 5 minutes to 10 minutes under conditions of a steam temperature of 25 to 100 ° C and a transfer speed of 15 to 25 m / min, and then washed with washing water at 95 ± 5 ° C. characterized by
여기서, 상기 매염제는 상온의 물에 황산알루미늄칼륨을 1~5중량%를 포함하도록 용해시켜 매염제 용액으로 사용하는 것을 특징으로 한다. Here, the mordant is characterized in that it is used as a mordant solution by dissolving potassium aluminum sulfate in water at room temperature to contain 1 to 5% by weight.
여기서, 상기 천연염료는 꼭두서니인 것을 특징으로 한다. Here, the natural dye is characterized in that the madder.
본 발명에 따라 제공되는 CPB공정을 이용한 천연염료의 염색방법은 염료 및 매염제 농도가 낮음에도 불구하고 발현되는 색상이 매우 선명한 색상발현 효과를 얻을 수 있고, 그에 따라 대량 생산시 염료 및 매염제를 적게 사용하여도 진한 색상을 얻을 수 있어 직접비를 절약할 수 있으며, 이는 천연 염료가 고가임을 생각할때 매우 큰 장점을 가지게 된다. The dyeing method of natural dyes using the CPB process provided according to the present invention can obtain a very vivid color expression effect despite the low concentration of dye and mordant, and therefore, the use of less dye and mordant during mass production. However, it is possible to obtain a dark color and save direct costs, which is a very big advantage considering that natural dyes are expensive.
또한, 종래의 후매염처리공정시 불균염 및 선명한 색상발혐의 어려움을 해소함으로써 매염효과를 극대화 할 수 있는 장점을 가진다. In addition, it has the advantage of maximizing the mordant effect by solving the difficulties of uneven salt and vivid color development during the conventional post-mordanting treatment process.
도 1 은 본 발명의 일실시예에 따른 520nm 파장에서 색차발현값(K/S)을 시험한 결과를 도시한 것이다. 1 shows the result of testing the color difference expression value (K/S) at a wavelength of 520 nm according to an embodiment of the present invention.
이하, 본 발명을 보다 구체적으로 설명하기로 한다. Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.
본 발명은 일반적으로 매염제 패딩처리는 반응성염료, 천연염료 등의 염색공정이 완료된 후 매염제를 패딩처리하여 염료를 고착시키기 위해 수행되는 것이나, 매염제 처리전 염료가 고착되어 있는 않은 상태에서 매염제를 패딩하면 매염액에 원단에 붙어있는 염료가 기어나와 불균염의 원인이되고 선명한 색상 발현이 어려운 문제점이 있었다. 이에 본 발명의 발명자들은 천연염료의 패딩공정 전에 매염제 처리를 할 경우 상기한 종래의 문제점을 해소할 수 있음을 알게 되어 본 발명을 완성하게 된 것이다. In the present invention, in general, the mordant padding treatment is performed to fix the dye by padding the mordant after the dyeing process of reactive dyes, natural dyes, etc. is completed. There was a problem that the dye attached to the fabric crawled out of the mordant solution and caused uneven dyeing, and it was difficult to express vivid colors. Accordingly, the inventors of the present invention have found that the above conventional problems can be solved when the mordant treatment is performed before the padding process of natural dyes, and the present invention has been completed.
본 발명에 따른 CPB공정을 이용한 천연염료의 염색방법은 생지원단을 준비하고 상기 원단의 잡물을 제거하는 전처리 공정과, 상기 전처리된 원단을 텐터(Tenter)에서 190±5℃의 온도 조건하에 텐터링(tentering)하여 건조하는 텐터공정;과, 상기 건조된 원단을 매염제에 패딩(padding)하는 매염공정;과, 상기 매염처리된 원단을 12시간 이상 숙성하는 숙성공정;과, 상기 숙성이 완료된 원단을 수세한 다음, 180~195℃의 온도조건하에 건조하는 수세 및 건조공정;과 상기 매염제 처리된 원단을 천연염료로 패딩(padding)하여 염료를 고착시키는 천연염료 염색공정;과 상기 천연염료의 염색이 완료된 후 미고착 염료를 제거하기 위한 수세공정;과 상기 수세공정이 완료된 원단을 가공하는 후가공공정을 포함하여 이루어진다. The dyeing method of natural dyes using the CPB process according to the present invention includes a pretreatment step of preparing raw fabric and removing impurities from the fabric, and tentering the pretreated fabric in a tenter at a temperature of 190 ± 5 ° C. A tenter process of tentering and drying; a mordant process of padding the dried fabric with a mordant; and an aging process of aging the mordant-treated fabric for 12 hours or more; and, the matured fabric Washing with water and then drying under a temperature condition of 180 to 195 ° C; and a natural dye dyeing step of padding the mordant-treated fabric with natural dye to fix the dye; and dyeing of the natural dye After completion, a water washing step for removing unfixed dye; and a post-processing step of processing the fabric after the water washing step is completed.
이때, 상기 전처리 공정은 패딩공정, 숙성공정 및 연속수세기 수세공정이 연속적으로 이루어지며,At this time, in the pretreatment process, a padding process, a aging process, and a continuous washing process are continuously performed,
상기 패딩공정(표 1 참조)은 준비된 생지원단을 정련제 1~2중량%, 정수제 1중량%, 흡수제 0.1중량%, 수산화나트륨 1~2중량%를 포함하는 정련욕제에 침지시켜 패딩속도 15~30m/min의 속도조건으로 원단의 잡물을 제거하는 연속정련, In the padding process (see Table 1), the prepared raw fabric is immersed in a scouring bath containing 1 to 2% by weight of a scouring agent, 1% by weight of a water purification agent, 0.1% by weight of an absorbent, and 1 to 2% by weight of sodium hydroxide, so that the padding speed is 15 to 15%. Continuous scouring to remove impurities from the fabric at a speed of 30 m/min,
또는 준비된 생지원단을 정련이 완료된 원단을 과산화수소 2~5중량%, 과수안정제 1~3중량%, 정련제 1~2중량%, 정수제 1중량%, 흡수제 0.1중량%, 수산화나트륨 1~2중량%를 포함하는 표백제에 입욕시켜 15~30m/min이 패딩속도 조건으로 표백, Alternatively, the prepared dough fabric is scoured with 2 to 5% by weight of hydrogen peroxide, 1 to 3% by weight of fruit stabilizer, 1 to 2% by weight of scouring agent, 1% by weight of water purifying agent, 0.1% by weight of absorbent, and 1 to 2% by weight of sodium hydroxide Bathed in a bleaching agent containing 15 ~ 30m / min bleaching under the conditions of the padding speed,
또는 준비된 생지원단을 과산화수소 2~5중량%, 과수안정제 1~3중량%, 정련제 1~2중량%, 정수제 1중량%, 흡수제 1중량%, 수산화나트륨 10~40중량%를 포함하는 실켓가공제가 구비된 실켓가공장치에 15~30m/min의 패딩속도로 공급하여 실켓가공하는 공정 중 선택된 어느 하나의 공정을 실시하며, Alternatively, the prepared raw fabric is processed into a silket containing 2 to 5% by weight of hydrogen peroxide, 1 to 3% by weight of a water stabilizer, 1 to 2% by weight of a scouring agent, 1% by weight of a water purification agent, 1% by weight of an absorbent, and 10 to 40% by weight of sodium hydroxide Supplying the silket processing device at a padding speed of 15 to 30 m/min to perform one selected process among the processes of processing the silket,
상기 숙성공정은 상기 패딩공정이 완료된 원단을 상온이 유지된 장소에서 원단이 묻어 있는 전처리액이 아래로 흘러 내지리 않도록 회전시키며 온도 20~30℃의 조건하에 0~24시간 숙성시키며,In the aging process, the fabric after the padding process is rotated in a place where the room temperature is maintained so that the pretreatment liquid buried in the fabric does not flow downward, and aged for 0 to 24 hours under conditions of a temperature of 20 to 30 ° C.
상기 연속수세기 수세공정은 상기 숙성이 완료된 원단을 스팀온도 25~100℃, 이송속도 15~25m/min의 조건으로 5분~10분 동안 스팀처리한 다음, 95±5℃의 세척수로 수세처리하는 것이다. 이러한 일련의 각각의 공정은 연속적으로 이루어지게 된다. In the continuous water washing process, the aged fabric is steamed for 5 to 10 minutes under conditions of a steam temperature of 25 to 100 ° C and a transfer speed of 15 to 25 m / min, and then washed with washing water at 95 ± 5 ° C. will be. Each of these series of processes is performed continuously.
본 발명의 표 1은 상기 전처리공정 중 패딩공정의 공정조건을 나타내는 것이다. 또한, 본 발명을 구성하는 상기 매염공정에 사용되는 매염제는 통상 사용되는 것을 사용하며, 바람직하게는 상기 매염제는 황산알루미늄칼륨을 사용하는 것이 좋다. 이때, 상기 매염제는 상온의 물에 황산알루미늄칼륨을 1~5중량%를 포함하도록 용해시켜 매염제 용액으로 사용하는 것이다. Table 1 of the present invention shows the process conditions of the padding process among the pretreatment processes. In addition, the mordant used in the mordant step constituting the present invention is a commonly used mordant, preferably aluminum sulfate potassium as the mordant. At this time, the mordant is used as a mordant solution by dissolving potassium aluminum sulfate in water at room temperature to contain 1 to 5% by weight.
이때, 상기 매염제로 사용되는 황산알루미늄칼륨을 용해시킨 매염제용액이 상기 황산알루미늄카륨이 1중량% 미만으로 포함될 경우에는 염색되는 색상의 농도가 옅어지고, 5중량%를 초과할 경우에는 매염제 패딩(Padding) 및 숙성 후 수세시 미반응되는 되는 매염제의 탈락현상이 발생하여 매염제의 양이 많아져 낭비가 되는 문제가 된다. At this time, when the mordant solution in which the aluminum sulfate potassium sulfate used as the mordant is dissolved contains less than 1% by weight of potassium aluminum sulfate, the concentration of the dyed color becomes lighter, and when it exceeds 5% by weight, the mordant padding (Padding ) And after aging, the phenomenon of dropping off of the mordant, which is unreacted, occurs, resulting in an increase in the amount of mordant, resulting in waste.
본 발명에 따르면, 상기 염료패딩시 사용되는 천연염료는 꼭두서니를 사용한다. According to the present invention, the natural dye used in the dye padding is a madder.
이하, 바람직한 실시예를 들어 본 발명을 보다 구체적으로 설명하기로 한다. 단, 하기에 기술되는 실시예는 본 발명을 설명하기 위한 예시로서, 하기 실시예로 본 발명을 한정하는 것은 아니며, 통상의 기술자라면 특허청구범위에 기재된 발명의 범위내에서 얼마든지 변형가능한 것이다. Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to preferred embodiments. However, the examples described below are examples for explaining the present invention, and the present invention is not limited to the following examples, and any modifications can be made by those skilled in the art within the scope of the invention described in the claims.
[실시예][Example]
생지원단: CM 40’S SINGLESaengwon Foundation: CM 40’S SINGLE
전처리: CM 40'S SINGLE SILKET 전처리Pretreatment: CM 40'S SINGLE SILKET Pretreatment
매염제: 황산알루미늄칼륨Mordant: potassium aluminum sulfate
매염제 용액: 상온의 물에 황산알루미늄칼륨을 1~5중량%를 포함하도록 용해시켜 준비함.Mordant solution: Prepared by dissolving potassium aluminum sulfate in water at room temperature to contain 1 to 5% by weight.
천연염료: 꼭두서니Natural dye: madder
천연염료 용액비: 1.2% OWSNatural dye solution ratio: 1.2% OWS
생지원단을 준비하고, 상기 준비된 생지원단을 하기 표 1에 나타낸 바와 같이, 정련제 1~2중량%, 정수제 1중량%, 흡수제 0.1중량%, 수산화나트륨 1~2중량%를 포함하는 정련욕제에 침지시켜 패딩속도 15~30m/min의 속도조건으로 원단의 잡물을 제거하는 연속정련A raw material was prepared, and the prepared raw material was added to a scouring bath agent containing 1 to 2% by weight of a scouring agent, 1% by weight of a water purification agent, 0.1% by weight of an absorbent, and 1 to 2% by weight of sodium hydroxide, as shown in Table 1 below. Continuous scouring by immersion to remove impurities from the fabric under the conditions of a padding speed of 15 to 30 m/min
또는 생지원단을 준비하고 상기 준비된 생지원단을 과산화수소 2~5중량%, 과수안정제 1~3중량%, 정련제 1~2중량%, 정수제 1중량%, 흡수제 0.1중량%, 수산화나트륨 1~2중량%를 포함하는 표백제에 입욕시켜 15~30m/min이 패딩속도 조건으로 표백한 하거나 Alternatively, a raw fabric is prepared, and the prepared fabric is 2 to 5% by weight of hydrogen peroxide, 1 to 3% by weight of a fruit stabilizer, 1 to 2% by weight of a refining agent, 1% by weight of a water purification agent, 0.1% by weight of an absorbent, and 1 to 2% by weight of sodium hydroxide 15 to 30 m/min by bathing in a bleaching agent containing
또는 생지원단을 준비하고 상기 준비된 생지원단을 과산화수소 2~5중량%, 과수안정제 1~3중량%, 정련제 1~2중량%, 정수제 1중량%, 흡수제 1중량%, 수산화나트륨 10~40중량%를 포함하는 실켓가공제가 구비된 실켓가공장치에 15~30m/min의 패딩속도로 공급하여 실켓가공하여 생지원단을 전처리하는 것 중 선택된 어느 하나의 공정을 수행한다. Alternatively, a raw fabric is prepared, and the prepared fabric is 2 to 5% by weight of hydrogen peroxide, 1 to 3% by weight of a fruit stabilizer, 1 to 2% by weight of a refining agent, 1% by weight of a water purification agent, 1% by weight of an absorbent, and 10 to 40% by weight of sodium hydroxide % to a silket processing device equipped with a silket processing agent at a padding speed of 15 to 30 m/min to process the silk and perform any one process selected from pre-treatment of the raw fabric.
상기 숙성공정은 상기 패딩공정이 완료된 원단을 상온이 유지된 장소에서 원단이 묻어 있는 전처리액이 아래로 흘러 내지리 않도록 회전시키며 온도 20~30℃의 조건하에 0~24시간 숙성시키며,In the aging process, the fabric after the padding process is rotated in a place where the room temperature is maintained so that the pretreatment liquid buried in the fabric does not flow downward, and aged for 0 to 24 hours under conditions of a temperature of 20 to 30 ° C.
상기 숙성이 완료된 원단은 연속수세기를 통과시켜 수세과정을 거쳤다. 구체적인 수세과정은 상기 숙성이 완료된 원단을 스팀처리기에서 스팀온도 25~100℃, 이송속도 15~25m/min의 조건으로 5분~10분동안 스팀처리한 다음, 95±5℃의 세척수로 수세처리함으로써 원단을 전처리 하였다. The aged fabric was subjected to a water washing process by passing it through continuous water centuries. In the specific water washing process, the aged fabric is steamed in a steam treatment machine at a steam temperature of 25 to 100 ° C and a transfer speed of 15 to 25 m / min for 5 to 10 minutes, and then washed with washing water at 95 ± 5 ° C. By doing so, the fabric was pretreated.
상기 전처리 공정이 완료된 원단은 텐터로 180~195℃ 온도조건하에 건조한다. 건조된 전처리 원단을 매염제 용액에 매염제 처리한다.The fabric on which the pretreatment process is completed is dried in a tenter at a temperature of 180 to 195 ° C. The dried pre-treated fabric is treated with a mordant solution in a mordant solution.
이때, 매염제는 준비된 황산알루미늄칼륨 용해액을 사용하였으며, 매염제 처리는 상온에서 15~30m/min의 PADDING 속도로 처리하였다.At this time, the prepared aluminum sulfate potassium solution was used as the mordant, and the mordant treatment was performed at a PADDING speed of 15 to 30 m/min at room temperature.
상기 매염제 처리 후, 숙성실에서 12시간 숙성시킨 다음, 잔류 매염제를 제거하기 위해 품온 95±5℃의 온도를 유지하는 수세수로 수세한 다음, 180~195℃의 온도범위에서 건조한다. After the mordant treatment, it is aged for 12 hours in an aging room, washed with water maintaining a temperature of 95 ± 5 ° C. to remove residual mordant, and then dried at a temperature range of 180 to 195 ° C.
상기 건조된 매염처리된 원단을 천연염료가 충진된 염액통에 침지시켜 천연염료를 패딩(PADDING)처리하여 염색을 완료한 다음, 미고착 염료를 씻어내는 수세공정을 실시한다. The dried, mordant-treated fabric is immersed in a dye container filled with natural dyes to complete dyeing by padding with natural dyes, and then a water washing step is performed to wash off unfixed dyes.
상기 염색이 완료된 원단을 3개의 시료를 준비하고, 각각의 시료를 테스트한 결과 520㎚ 파장에서 색차(K/S)를 테스트한 결과 도 1에 첨부된 바와 같이, K/S 3.361값을 얻었다. As a result of preparing three samples of the dyed fabric and testing each sample for color difference (K / S) at a wavelength of 520 nm, as shown in FIG. 1, a K / S value of 3.361 was obtained.
상기 실시예의 염색된 원단의 견뢰도 테스트를 실시하여 보았다. A fastness test of the dyed fabric of the above example was performed.
세탁견뢰도(KS K ISO 105-C06 : 2010, 40℃, 30분, 0.4%세제, 구슬 10개) : 급Washing fastness (KS K ISO 105-C06: 2010, 40℃, 30 minutes, 0.4% detergent, 10 beads): grade
그 결과는 하기와 같다. The results are as follows.
* 변퇴색 : 4-5 * Discoloration: 4-5
* 오염 * pollution
- 아세테이트 4-5 - Acetate 4-5
- 면 4-5 - Scenes 4-5
- 폴리아마이드 4-5 - Polyamide 4-5
- 폴리에스터 4-5 - Polyester 4-5
- 아크릴 4-5 - Acrylic 4-5
- 모 4-5 - Mo 4-5
종래기술인 대한민국등록특허공보 제10-1380374호에 'CPB 공정을 활용한 천연염료의 염색방법'을 참고하여 후매염처리하는 종래 방법과 상기 실시예에 따른 염색원단의 색상발현을 비교하여 보았다. 그 결과는 하기 표 2에 나타낸 바와 같다. Referring to Korean Patent Registration No. 10-1380374, which is a prior art, 'Dyeing method of natural dyes using CPB process', the color expression of the dyed fabric according to the above embodiment was compared with the conventional method of post-mordanting treatment. The results are as shown in Table 2 below.
(K/S)(K/S)
상기 표 3에 나타난 바와 같이, 본 발명은 염료 및 매염제 농도가 낮음에도 불구하고 발현되는 색상의 차이가 11.5배 차이가 나는 것을 알 수 있으며, 일반적으로 상기 매염제는 사용하는 천연염료에 따라 Al, Fe, Cu 등이 많이 사용되며 같은 천연염료라도 사용되는 매염제에 따라 색상이 다르게 나오게 된다.As shown in Table 3, in the present invention, despite the low concentration of dye and mordant, it can be seen that the difference in color expressed is 11.5 times different. In general, the mordant is Al, Fe depending on the natural dye used. , Cu, etc. are used a lot, and even with the same natural dye, the color comes out differently depending on the mordant used.
본 실시예에서는 꼭두서니 염료에 맞추어 Al을 매염제로 선정하였으며 시중에 시판되는 황산알루미늄칼륨(명반)을 녹여 매염제 용액을 제조하여 사용하였다.In this example, Al was selected as a mordant according to the madder dye, and a mordant solution was prepared and used by dissolving commercially available potassium aluminum sulfate (alum).
이러한 매염제는 원단, 천연염료에 따라 적정 매염제의 농도는 항상 유동성을 가지게 된다.These mordants always have fluidity at the appropriate concentration of the mordants depending on the fabric and natural dyes.
본 발명에서 실시예로 사용된 CM 40’S SINGLE SILKET 원단에서 꼭두서니 염료에 대한 매염제의 적정 농도는 황산알루미늄칼륨을 1중량%를 포함하도록 상온의 물에 용해한 매염제용액을 사용하는 것이다. The proper concentration of the mordant for the madder dye in the CM 40'S SINGLE SILKET fabric used as an example in the present invention is to use a mordant solution dissolved in water at room temperature to contain 1% by weight of potassium aluminum sulfate.
시험결과 이보다 낮은 농도일때는 염색되는 색상의 농도가 옅어지고, 높을 경우에는 매염제 PADDING + 숙성 후 수세시 미반응되어 탈락되는 매염제의 양이 많아져 낭비현상이 발생할 수 있다. As a result of the test, when the concentration is lower than this, the color concentration to be dyed becomes light, and when it is high, the amount of the mordant that is unreacted and eliminated during washing with water after padding of the mordant + aging increases, which can cause waste.
즉, 원단에 부착되는 적정 매염제 농도가 있고, 그 이하의 매염제가 들어갈 경우에는 색상이 옅게 나오고, 적정 이상의 매염제가 들어갈 경우에는 미부착 되는 매염제 양이 많아져 수세시 탈락하게 되는 현상이 발생할 수 있는 것이다.That is, if there is an appropriate mordant concentration attached to the fabric, and if less than the mordant is entered, the color will appear light, and if more than the appropriate mordant is entered, the amount of unattached mordant increases, resulting in the phenomenon of falling off during washing. .
상기한 결과 본 발명은 대량 생산시 염료 및 매염제를 적게 사용하여도 진한 색상을 얻을 수 있어 직접비를 절약할 수 있으며, 이는 천연 염료가 고가임을 생각할 때 매우 큰 장점이다. As a result of the above, the present invention can obtain a deep color even when a small amount of dye and mordant is used in mass production, so direct costs can be saved, which is a great advantage considering that natural dyes are expensive.
Claims (4)
상기 전처리된 원단을 텐터(Tenter)에서 190±5℃의 온도 조건하에 텐터링(tentering)하여 건조하는 텐터공정;과,
상기 건조된 원단을 매염제에 패딩(padding)하는 매염공정;과,
상기 매염처리된 원단을 12시간 이상 숙성하는 숙성공정;과,
상기 숙성이 완료된 원단을 수세한 다음, 180~195℃의 온도조건하에 건조하는 수세 및 건조공정;과
상기 매염제 처리된 원단을 천연염료로 패딩(padding)하여 염료를 고착시키는 천연염료 염색공정;과
상기 천연염료의 염색이 완료된 후 미고착 염료를 제거하기 위한 수세공정;과
상기 수세공정이 완료된 원단을 가공하는 후가공공정을 포함하여 이루어지는 것을 특징으로 하는 CPB공정을 이용한 천연염료의 염색방법.
A pretreatment step of preparing raw fabric and removing impurities from the fabric; and,
A tenter process of tentering and drying the pretreated fabric in a tenter under a temperature condition of 190 ± 5 ° C; and
A mordant step of padding the dried fabric with a mordant;
An aging process of aging the mordant-treated fabric for 12 hours or more;
A washing and drying step of washing the aged fabric with water and then drying it under a temperature condition of 180 to 195 ° C; and
A natural dye dyeing process of padding the mordant-treated fabric with natural dye to fix the dye; and
After the dyeing of the natural dye is completed, a water washing step for removing unfixed dye; and
Dyeing method of natural dyes using the CPB process, characterized in that it comprises a post-processing step of processing the fabric on which the water washing step is completed.
상기 전처리 공정은 패딩공정, 숙성공정 및 연속수세기 수세공정으로 이루어지며,
상기 패딩공정은 준비된 생지원단을 정련제 1~2중량%, 정수제 1중량%, 흡수제 0.1중량%, 수산화나트륨 1~2중량%를 포함하는 정련욕제에 침지시켜 패딩속도 15~30m/min의 속도조건으로 원단의 잡물을 제거하는 연속정련,
또는 준비된 생지원단을 과산화수소 2~5중량%, 과수안정제 1~3중량%, 정련제 1~2중량%, 정수제 1중량%, 흡수제 0.1중량%, 수산화나트륨 1~2중량%를 포함하는 표백제에 입욕시켜 15~30m/min이 패딩속도 조건으로 표백,
또는 준비된 생지원단을 과산화수소 2~5중량%, 과수안정제 1~3중량%, 정련제 1~2중량%, 정수제 1중량%, 흡수제 1중량%, 수산화나트륨 10~40중량%를 포함하는 실켓가공제가 구비된 실켓가공장치에 15~30m/min의 패딩속도로 공급하여 실켓가공하는 공정 중 선택된 어느 하나의 공정으로 이루어지며,
상기 숙성공정은 상기 패딩공정이 완료된 원단을 상온이 유지된 장소에서 원단이 묻어 있는 전처리액이 아래로 흘러 내지리 않도록 회전시키며 온도 20~30℃의 조건하에 0~24시간 숙성시키며,
상기 연속수세기 수세공정은 상기 숙성이 완료된 원단을 스팀온도 25~100℃, 이송속도 15~25m/min의 조건으로 5분~10분동안 스팀처리한 다음, 95±5℃의 세척수로 수세처리하는 것을 특징으로 하는 CPB공정을 이용한 천연염료의 염색방법.
According to claim 1,
The pretreatment process consists of a padding process, a aging process, and a continuous water washing process,
In the padding process, the prepared raw fabric is immersed in a scouring bath agent containing 1 to 2% by weight of a scouring agent, 1% by weight of a water purification agent, 0.1% by weight of an absorbent, and 1 to 2% by weight of sodium hydroxide at a padding speed of 15 to 30 m/min. Continuous scouring to remove impurities from the fabric under the condition,
Alternatively, the prepared raw fabric is added to a bleaching agent containing 2 to 5% by weight of hydrogen peroxide, 1 to 3% by weight of a water stabilizer, 1 to 2% by weight of a scouring agent, 1% by weight of a water purification agent, 0.1% by weight of an absorbent, and 1 to 2% by weight of sodium hydroxide Bleach with a padding speed condition of 15 to 30 m/min by bathing,
Alternatively, the prepared raw fabric is processed into a silket containing 2 to 5% by weight of hydrogen peroxide, 1 to 3% by weight of a water stabilizer, 1 to 2% by weight of a scouring agent, 1% by weight of a water purification agent, 1% by weight of an absorbent, and 10 to 40% by weight of sodium hydroxide It is made by any one process selected from among the processes of supplying the silket at a padding speed of 15 to 30 m/min to the silket processing device equipped with the agent,
In the aging process, the fabric after the padding process is rotated in a place where the room temperature is maintained so that the pretreatment liquid buried in the fabric does not flow downward, and aged for 0 to 24 hours under conditions of a temperature of 20 to 30 ° C.
In the continuous water washing process, the aged fabric is steamed for 5 minutes to 10 minutes under conditions of a steam temperature of 25 to 100 ° C and a transfer speed of 15 to 25 m / min, and then washed with washing water at 95 ± 5 ° C. Dyeing method of natural dyes using the CPB process, characterized in that.
상기 매염제는 상온의 물에 황산알루미늄칼륨을 1~5중량%를 포함하도록 용해시켜 매염제 용액으로 사용하는 것을 특징으로 하는 CPB공정을 이용한 천연염료의 염색방법.
According to claim 1,
The mordant is a dyeing method of natural dyes using a CPB process, characterized in that for use as a mordant solution by dissolving potassium aluminum sulfate in water at room temperature to contain 1 to 5% by weight.
상기 천연염료는 꼭두서니인 것을 특징으로 하는 CPB공정을 이용한 천연염료의 염색방법.According to claim 1,
The natural dye is a dyeing method of natural dyes using a CPB process, characterized in that the madder.
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