KR20190080240A - Processing method for improving morphological stability of silk fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a processing method for improving a shape stability of silk fabrics, and more specifically, to a processing method for improving a shape stability of silk fabrics, which applies a liquid ammonia processing technology to improve shrink resistance properties and enable a shrinkage rate control for water washing, and performs uniform process of silk having an excellent shape stability without wrinkles or composite fabrics of silk and cellulose/non-cellulose. The present invention comprises: a preprocessing step which prepares silk fabrics and preprocesses the same in a continuous cleaning device; a liquid ammonia processing step which nano-sizes fine structures of silk fibers forming the preprocessed silk fabrics; a CPB dyeing step which dyes the ammonia-processed fabrics; a drying step which dries the fabrics dyed; a shape stable processing step which immerses the dried fabric in a processing agent and curing-processes the same in a tenter at 160±20°Cfor 75±45 seconds to provide shape stability; and a step which sanforizes the fabrics having a shape stable processing completed in an open compacter.

Description

[0001] The present invention relates to a method for improving the morphological stability of a silk fabric,

More particularly, the present invention relates to a process for improving the morphological stability of silk fabrics, and more particularly, to a process for improving the morphological stability of silk fabrics, And more particularly to a method for improving the shape stability of a silk fabric capable of uniformly processing a cellulose / non-cellulose composite fabric.

In recent years, the textile industry has rapidly grown in the casual wear market and sports apparel market, which are pursuing activity and convenience, due to the surge of interest in well-being and health around the world. Therefore, And the size of the product has already exceeded that of textile products.

With increasing consumer interest in health, wellbeing and health, it is now becoming a hot issue around the world. It is now reapprehension of the environment. Now, the strengthening of environmental regulations in developed countries is emerging as a new trade barriers. In addition to production activities, corporate management and national management itself face difficult situations.

Recently, as the patterns of clothing consumption have shifted to eco-friendly products and natural products, many textile companies have competed to produce eco-friendly and natural textile products such as silk, wool, mulberry fiber, organic cotton and lyocell. We are concentrating on preparing self-help measures.

On the other hand, in the textile industry, the production stream is characterized by high pollution load and energy consumption. Therefore, there is a possibility of contraction of the existing market due to environmental regulations. In particular, the dyeing processing process removes impurities from the fibers, It is the step that gives the highest value added value in the fiber manufacturing process, which is a step to give a suitable performance to the purpose. It is a typical waste water generation process and energy consumption process by using high temperature water and various chemical chemicals. Considering the continuous increase in demand for knitwear in dyeing processing, which is characterized by high energy consumption and high environmental load, it is very important and timely to construct an environmentally friendly and low-energy production system for knitted materials.

For cotton knit materials, we use a large amount of NaOH to improve the gloss and dyeability by processing the silk to produce the finest knitted products. However, since the alkalinity of silk-containing knitted materials is very weak, , Which produces knit products that depend on silk's unique natural shine and knit products that rely on silk's unique soft touch.

In addition, silk-containing knitted fabrics suffer from severe shrinkage during water washing and lose natural shine. Therefore, current households rely on the dry cleaning washing method, which complicates the handling of the laundry. The solvent (perchlorethylene) It is a situation that can not be relieved about the harmfulness of human body.

Korean Patent Registration No. 10-1566709. Korean Patent Registration No. 10-1367037. Korean Patent Registration No. 10-1645252.

The present invention has been made to solve the above-mentioned problems, and it is an object of the present invention to solve the above-described problems, and it is an object of the present invention to provide a silk fabric which is processed with low-temperature liquid ammonia, To thereby improve the morphological stability of the silk fabric, and to provide a method for improving the morphological stability of the silk fabric.

A method for improving the morphological stability of a silk fabric of the present invention, which solves the above problems, includes a pretreatment step of preparing a silk fabric and pretreating the silk fabric in a continuous number of centuries, and a pretreatment step of continuously treating the silk fabric with liquid ammonia A step of drying the dyed fabric, and a step of dipping the dried fabric in a processing agent and then dipping the dyed fabric in a tenter at a temperature of 160 占 폚 to 20 占 폚 A morphological stability processing step for imparting shape stability by curing for ± 45 seconds; And a step of shrink-proofing the fabric with the shape-stable processing completed by the open compactor.

The liquid ammonia treatment step may include a step of drying the pretreated fabric, followed by cooling, and a step of introducing the cooled fabric into an inlet compartmenting chamber maintained in a vacuum state, A method for producing a liquid ammonia-impregnated fabric, comprising the steps of: introducing a fabric into a impregnation chamber and then impregnating the impregnation chamber with liquid ammonia; and pressing the impregnated fabric with a padder to reduce the ammonia component A step of vaporizing the ammonia by passing the raw fabric through which the liquid ammonia treatment has been completed to a plurality of heating felts; and a step of supplying the steamed unit with steam to the steam unit, A residue removing step And drying the steam-treated raw fabric through a compactor to remove residues.

Here, the working agent used in the shape stabilizing step is preferably 5 to 8 parts by weight of a glyoxal resin, 1 to 2 parts by weight of magnesium chloride, 2 to 5 parts by weight of urethane, 3 to 10 parts by weight of a silicone softener, 0.05 to 0.1 parts by weight of acetic acid or citric acid.

Here, the liquid ammonia treatment in the compartment is performed at a temperature of -33 to -34 DEG C for 1 to 10 seconds.

In the shrinking process, after the fabric having been subjected to the shape stabilization process is dried, the fabric is supplied to the open compactor, steam is sprayed to the fabric at a temperature ranging from 140 to 160 ° C for 1 to 3 seconds, Deg.] C at a rate of 10 to 20 m / min.

Wherein the silk fibers constituting the liquid ammonia-treated silk fabric have pore sizes of 2 nm or less.

According to the present invention, there is a disadvantage in that the touch of the fabric is stiffened when the morphological stability processing is performed after dyeing. However, when the morphological stability processing is performed after the liquid ammonia processing according to the present invention, the touch of the fabric is soft and the repulsive elasticity And the shrinkage rate of water washing is controlled within ± 5%, so that the shape of fabric and clothes is maintained, and the shrinkage ratio is improved.

In addition, the liquid ammonia treatment has an advantage in that the silk fabric is improved in dyeability, shugging property is improved, and the luxurious and elegant gloss is maintained even in repeated washing, and the silk fabric excellent in anti-wrinkling effect can be provided.

1 is an enlarged view showing the microstructure of silk fibers.
FIGS. 2 and 3 show the result of comparing the touch feeling of the processed fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention with the fabric according to the conventional processing method.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

The present invention discloses a method for improving the morphological stability of a silk fabric having excellent morphological stability which can control the shrinkage rate for water washing by improving the shake resistance by applying a liquid ammonia processing technique to the silk fabric .

A method for improving the morphological stability of a silk fabric according to the present invention includes: a pretreatment step of preparing a silk fabric and pretreating it in a continuous several hundreds of cycles; a liquid ammonia treatment step of nanomating the microstructure of the silk fiber constituting the pretreated silk fabric; A drying step of drying the dyed fabric, and a step of dipping the dried fabric in a processing agent and then curing in a tenter at 160 占 폚 and 20 占 폚 for 75 占 45 seconds. A morphological stable processing step of imparting shape stability by processing; And a step of shrink-proofing the fabric having been subjected to the shape-stable processing by the open compactor.

According to the present invention, the step of treating the liquid ammonia comprises the steps of drying the pretreated fabric and then cooling it, and introducing the cooled fabric into an inlet compartmenting chamber maintained in a vacuum state; The method comprising the steps of: introducing a raw fabric into an inlet compartment chamber into an impregnation chamber and then impregnating and impregnating the liquid ammonia; and pressing the impregnated fabric with a padder to form an ammonia component The steam is supplied to the steam unit and the steam is heat treated to remove the ammonia residue, and the ammonia is removed by passing the steam through the heating felt, A residue removing step And a step of drying the steam by passing the fabric through which the residue is removed by the heat treatment to the compactor.

At this time, the inlet compartment chamber is preferably kept in a vacuum state to prevent blow-by of ammonia and prevent air from flowing into the liquid ammonia treatment unit. It is also preferable to sufficiently cool the liquid ammonia before introduction to prevent vaporization of the liquid ammonia in the compartment. Here, in the inlet compartment chamber, the fabric stays for 5 to 20 seconds, and the fabric feeding speed is supplied at a speed of 10 to 20 m / min according to the conditions of the fabric.

The raw material supplied through the inlet compartment chamber is introduced into the compartment, and after the raw material is fed, liquid ammonia is supplied to impregnate the compartment. At this time, the treatment with liquid ammonia in the above-mentioned compartment is preferably carried out at a temperature of -33 to -34 for 1 to 10 seconds. The reason for this is that there is a problem of vaporization of liquid ammonia when the temperature is out of the above temperature range, and when the treatment time is less than 1 second, a sufficient swelling effect is not obtained. When it exceeds 10 seconds, (stiff) may occur and there is a problem in productivity.

At this time, it is preferable that the above-mentioned compartment is also kept in a vacuum state. Preferably, the degree of vacuum of the compartment is maintained at -7,000 Pa. If the degree of vacuum is out of the above-mentioned critical range, there is a problem that air flows in from the outside or internal ammonia is discharged.

The liquid ammonia-treated fabric in the impregnation chamber is compressed with a fader to reduce the ammonia component. The reduced ammonia is passed through a heating felt to vaporize the ammonia, and ammonia remaining after vaporization is removed from the steam unit. At this time, it is preferable that the steam heat treatment is performed for 10 to 15 seconds under the condition that steamer temperature is 120 캜 and steam injection amount is 500 to 600 kg / sec.

The steamed fabric is passed through a compactor and dried to remove moisture.

In the liquid ammonia treatment step described above, the ammonia absorbed in the raw material is evaporated, the ammonia gas is compressed after the first cooling, the compressed ammonia gas is cooled and then sent to the condenser to condense and the condensed ammonia gas is converted into liquid ammonia To be reused. Further, the ammonia removed by the fader and the ammonia removed in the residue removing step are collected and re-converted into liquid ammonia to be reused.

According to the present invention, the silk fabric used in the present invention can be applied to a fabric made of 100% silk or a silk fabric mixed with other materials. At this time, the other raw material is a mixture of noncellulosic or cellulose fibers, and examples thereof include Cotten, Rayon, Tencel, Modal, PET, Wool and the like. Preferably, when the other materials are used in combination, the blend ratio of silk and rubbers is preferably mixed with silk: rubbers at a weight ratio of 2: 8 to 8: 2. If the mixing ratio is out of the critical range, problems such as changes in physical properties such as shape stability and strength decrease during processing of liquid ammonia may occur.

According to the present invention, it is preferable to use a glyoxal-based resin as the processing agent which is preferably used in the shape-stable processing step. It is more preferable to use a formaldehyde resin in the glyoxal resin.

According to the present invention, preferably, the working agent used in the morphological stability processing step comprises 5 to 8 parts by weight of glyoxal resin, 1 to 2 parts by weight of magnesium chloride, 2 to 5 parts by weight of urethane, 3 to 10 parts by weight of a silicone softening agent and 0.05 to 0.1 parts by weight of acetic acid or citric acid is used. After dipping the raw material into the working agent, curing is performed in a tenter at 160 ± 20 ° C. for 75 ± 45 seconds . At this time, magnesium chloride constituting the working agent is used as a catalyst.

At this time, there is a problem that the shape stability effect is lowered when the glyoxal-based resin constituting the working agent is out of the threshold value or when the magnesium chloride is out of the critical value range. When the magnesium chloride content is less than 1 part by weight There is a problem in that the spinning resistance is lowered. When the amount is more than 2 parts by weight, the strength of the fabric is lowered and the touch becomes stiff. Also, the curing temperature range must be maintained at a temperature of 180 ° C or less to prevent yellowing of the fabric. Preferably, the curing temperature range is maintained in the range of 160 to 180 ° C.

When the content of the urethane is less than 2 parts by weight, there is a problem of stretchability and strength reduction. When the content is more than 5 parts by weight, the urethane improves the stretchability of the silk- ) There is a problem that can happen.

If the content of the silicone softener is less than 3 parts by weight, there is a problem of strength and touch deterioration. If the content of the silicone softener exceeds 10 parts by weight, slip of the fabric may occur.

In addition, acetic acid or citric acid is used in order to exhibit optimal morphological stability by adjusting the pH of the processing bath to 4 to 6, and it is more preferable to use citric acid in view of the morphological stability of the silk fabric. In this case, when yellowing accompanies the silk content, citric acid and a yellowing inhibitor may be used in combination.

According to the present invention, shrink-proof processing is performed to prevent shrinkage due to washing or the like. Preferably, the shrink-proofing process is performed by drying the fabric having been subjected to the shape-stable processing, supplying the fabric to the open compactor, spraying steam at a temperature in the range of 140 to 160 ° C for 1 to 3 seconds, It is preferable to perform processing at a treatment speed of 10 to 20 m / min at 120 to 130 ° C. The reason is that when shrinkage is not observed in temperature and processing time, shrinkage rate control is remarkably deteriorated. This is because when the temperature range of the cylinder in the open compactor is out of the threshold or out of the processing speed, the shrinkage of the fabric tends to deteriorate.

The silk fibers constituting the silk fabric disclosed in the present invention have a fine structure as shown in Fig. 1, and are largely composed of a crystalline region and an amorphous region. Dyes and morphology stabilizers cause the molecular structure to penetrate into loose amorphous regions, with the spacing between molecules in the amorphous region ranging from 1 to several tens of nanometers. The quality of various silk fibers can be modified or varied by controlling the size of the gap. In the liquid ammonia treatment and the morphological stability treatment according to the present invention, the silk fibers have a gap of 2 nm or less.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to preferred embodiments. It should be understood, however, that the following examples are illustrative of the present invention and are not to be construed as limiting the scope of the invention in any way whatsoever without departing from the scope of the present invention.

[Example 1]

Silk fabrics were prepared and pretreated in a continuous manner in a conventional manner, followed by liquid ammonia treatment. The raw material of the ammonia-treated liquid was subjected to CPB dyeing in a usual manner, the fabric was dried, the dyed fabrics were dipped in the dyed fabrics of the tenters for 2 to 3 seconds, And cured at 160 ± 20 ° C for 75 ± 45 seconds to form stable processing. The fabric with the shape stable processing was subjected to shrinkage processing by the open compactor. At this time, liquid ammonia treatment, processing agent treatment and shrinkage treatment were carried out as follows.

At this time, the working agent is preferably added in an amount of 5 to 8 parts by weight of a glyoxal resin, 1 to 2 parts by weight of magnesium chloride, 2 to 5 parts by weight of urethane, 3 to 10 parts by weight of a silicone softener, ) Or citric acid (0.05 to 0.1 part by weight).

<Liquid Ammonia Treatment Step>

After the pretreated silk fabric was dried, it was passed through a cooling area to cool the fabric so that the temperature of the fabric was 10 ° C or less,

The cooled fabric was fed into an inlet compartmenting chamber maintained at a vacuum and fed at a feed rate of 10 to 20 m / min. The mixture was allowed to stand for 5 to 20 seconds, and the fabric was impregnated chamber, and then impregnated with liquid ammonia. At this time, the liquid ammonia treatment was performed at a temperature of -33 DEG C for 5 seconds.

The raw material impregnated with the liquid ammonia is compressed using a Padder to reduce the ammonia component, and the raw material is passed through a plurality of heating felt to vaporize the ammonia, and the vaporized raw fabric is supplied to a steam unit ) To remove ammonia residues.

The fabric with the remnant removed therefrom was steam-treated for 10 to 15 seconds under the condition of steamer temperature of 120 ° C and steam injection amount of 500 to 600 kg / sec, and the fabric was passed through a compactor and dried.

<Shrinkage-proofing>

After the fabric having been subjected to the shape stabilization process is dried, the fabric is supplied to the open compactor, and the steam at a temperature range of 140 to 160 ° C is sprayed for 1 to 3 seconds to the fabric. Then, the temperature in the cylinder of the open compactor is 120 to 130 ° C Lt; RTI ID = 0.0 &gt; m / min. &Lt; / RTI &gt;

[Comparative Example 1]

The processing was performed in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the liquid ammonia processing and the morphological stabilization processing were not performed.

[Comparative Example 2]

A processing was performed in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the morphological stability processing was not performed.

2 and Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 2, Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 2 are shown in FIG. 2 and Comparative Example 1, respectively. The results of the shear characteristics comparison test of Examples 1 and 2 were as shown in Fig. 3. As a result, the touch feeling of the fabric processed in Example 1 showed a softer touch feeling than that of Comparative Example 2, The rebound resilience was improved.

On the other hand, the physical properties tests of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 were carried out, and the results are shown in Table 1 below.

Performance indicator Example 1 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Test Methods Improved dyeability
(blue 10 g / l)
(K / S) 20.75 17.25 21.04 KS A0062 Improved bearing performance
(Length / width) -3.0 / -0.6 -14.2 / + 4.5 -4.0 / -4.0 KS K ISO 5077 Rebound resilience
(Elasticity: length / width) 94.2 / 93.6 83 / 74.9 94/75 KS K 0642 DP rating
(class) 4.0 3.0 3.5 KS K ISO 7768

As can be seen from the results of Table 1, when the silk fabric product was processed according to the processing method according to the present invention, the physical properties were generally improved.

Therefore, when the processing method according to the present invention is adopted, it is possible to provide a silk fabric product improved in texture stability, durability, and sparkling properties as well as in improving the shape stability of a silk fabric product, It is possible to provide a high quality silk product which is kept alive and natural luster.

Claims (7)

A pretreatment step of preparing a silk fabric cloth and pretreating it in a series of successive centuries;
A liquid ammonia treatment step in which the microstructure of the silk fibers constituting the pretreated silk fabric is nanoized;
A CPB staining step of staining the ammonia-treated fabric;
Drying the dyed fabric;
A morphological stability processing step in which the dried fabric is dipped in a processing agent and cured in a tenter at 160 賊 20 캜 for 75 賊 45 seconds to impart shape stability; And
And a step of shrinking the fabric having been subjected to the morphological stabilization processing by an open compactor.
The method according to claim 1,
The liquid ammonia treatment step comprises drying and then cooling the pretreated fabric;
Introducing the cooled fabric into an inlet compartmenting chamber maintained in a vacuum state;
Introducing a raw material charged into the inlet compartment chamber into an impregnation chamber, and then supplying and impregnating liquid ammonia;
Vaporizing the raw material impregnated with the liquid ammonia by using a padder to reduce the ammonia component and then passing the raw material with the liquid ammonia treatment through a plurality of heating felts to vaporize the ammonia;
Removing the residue of ammonia by supplying steam to the steam unit and steam-treating the steamed unit;
And drying the steam-treated fabric by passing the fabric through which the residue is removed to the compact, thereby drying the silk fabric.
The method according to claim 1,
The working agent used in the shape-stable working step may be prepared by mixing 5 to 8 parts by weight of a glyoxal resin, 1 to 2 parts by weight of magnesium chloride, 2 to 5 parts by weight of urethane, 3 to 10 parts by weight of a silicone softener, , 0.05 to 0.1 part by weight of acetic acid or citric acid, based on the total weight of the silk fabric.
3. The method of claim 2,
Wherein the treatment with liquid ammonia in the compartment is carried out at a temperature of 33 to -34 DEG C for 1 to 10 seconds.
3. The method of claim 2,
Wherein the steam heat treatment is performed for 10 to 15 seconds under a steamer temperature of 120 DEG C and a steam injection amount of 500 to 600 kg / sec.
The method according to claim 1,
In the shrinking process, after the fabric having been subjected to the shape stabilization process is dried, the fabric is supplied to the open compactor, steam is sprayed to the fabric at a temperature ranging from 140 to 160 ° C for 1 to 3 seconds, At a speed of 10 to 20 m / min. The method for improving shape stability of a silk fabric.
The method according to claim 1,
Wherein the silk fibers constituting the liquid ammonia-treated silk fabric have a pore size of 2 nm or less.

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