KR20180024422A - Process Of Producing High―Elasticity Fabrics Having Jaquard―Look - Google Patents
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
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- D03D15/04—
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03C—SHEDDING MECHANISMS; PATTERN CARDS OR CHAINS; PUNCHING OF CARDS; DESIGNING PATTERNS
- D03C3/00—Jacquards
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D11/00—Double or multi-ply fabrics not otherwise provided for
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
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- D03D15/08—
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
- D06B3/10—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C23/00—Making patterns or designs on fabrics
- D06C23/04—Making patterns or designs on fabrics by shrinking, embossing, moiréing, or crêping
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C27/00—Compound processes or apparatus, for finishing or dressing textile fabrics, not otherwise provided for
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M13/02—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with hydrocarbons
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
- D10B2401/061—Load-responsive characteristics elastic
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2507/00—Sport; Military
Abstract
Description
본 발명은 쟈카드외관을 나타내는 고탄성직물에 관한 것으로서 표면은 강력한 요철효과를 가지면서 쟈카드외관을 나타내는 신축성있는 고탄성직물을 제조하는 방법이다.The present invention relates to a high elastic fabric exhibiting a jacquard appearance and a method of producing a stretchable high elastic fabric exhibiting a jacquard appearance while having a strong irregular effect on the surface.
현재 섬유업계에서 생산·사용되고 있는 신축성 직물로는 스판덱스사를 이용하는 방법과 폴리에스테르사의 사가공을 이용하는 방법이 있다. 스판덱스사인 경우에는 실제 사용에 있어 단독사용이 불가능하기 때문에 스판덱스사에 타종의 원사를 커버링하여 사용하게 된다. 이 때 타 원사 간의 혼합비율이 낮아 스판덱스의 단독물성을 잃게 되어 스판덱스 고유의 물성을 발휘하지 못하게 된다. 일반적으로 스판덱스의 탄성은 400∼800%의 절단신도를 지니고 있으나, 직물에 있어서 10∼30%정도의 신축성으로 이는 타원사의 크림프를 스판덱스가 단독으로 형성시켜야만 되는데, 이 수축강도가 혼합비율 문제로 낮아 고유의 신축성이 배제되는 것이다. 특히 폴리에스테르사와 혼합의 경우 감량가공이 불가능할 뿐 아니라 내열성이 낮아(120℃ 이하 처리)염색이나 가공에 문제가 있다.The stretch fabrics currently produced and used in the textile industry include a method using spandex yarns and a method using polyester yarns. In the case of spandex yarn, it is impossible to use it alone in actual use, so it is covered with spandex yarn of various kinds. In this case, the blend ratio between the different yarns is low, so that the spandex is lost in its own properties and the spandex can not exhibit its inherent physical properties. Generally, the elasticity of spandex has a cutting elongation of 400 to 800%, but the elasticity of the fabric is about 10 to 30%, which means that the crimp of the elliptic yarn must be formed by spandex alone. The inherent flexibility is excluded. In particular, when blended with polyester yarn, it is not only impossible to reduce the weight, but also has a low heat resistance (treatment at 120 ° C or less), which is problematic in dyeing and processing.
다른 방법으로 폴리에스테르 사가공을 이용하는 방법은 섬유 자체에 횡단면상에 수축성과 이완성이 공존하는 바이메탈구조를 강화시킨 잠재권축사를 이용하는 방법과 필라멘트사를 가연조건 중 히터온도를 융점에 근접하는 온도인 235℃에서 고장력으로 처리함으로써 고분자 배향도를 높여, 크림프를 최대한 살린 고벌키 가연사를 제조하여 사용하는 방법이 있다. 그러나 잠재권축사를 사용하는 경우에 사이징공정을 하게 되면 과도한 열을 받게 되어 잠재권축필라멘트의 열수축율이 저하되어 제직시 표면요철효과가 줄어드는 문제점을 가진다. 또한, 폴리에스테르 사가공을 이용하는 경우에 교직물로 응용할 때, 염색조건에 따라 적용을 하지 못하는 경우도 있고, 부드럽고 가벼우며 고기능성을 요구하는 스포츠용 제품으로는 적용에 한계가 있는 문제점이 있었다.Another method of using polyester yarn is to use a pottery structure reinforced with a bimetallic structure in which shrinkage and relaxation coexist on the cross-section of the fiber itself, and a method in which a filament yarn is heated at a temperature close to the melting point A high tensile strength at 235 ° C is used to increase the degree of polymer orientation and to manufacture a bulky false-twist yarn that maximizes the crimp. However, if the sizing process is used, the heat shrinkage rate of the latent crimping filament is lowered and the surface irregularity effect is reduced when the latent crimping filament is used. In addition, when polyester yarn processing is used, it may not be applied depending on the dyeing conditions when it is applied as a textile material, and there is a limit to application to a sports product requiring softness, lightness and high functionality.
또한, 시어서커 직물과 같은 입체효과를 가지는 직물을 제조하기 위해서는 경사로서 장력, 굵기나 꼬임이 다른 두 종류의 실을 배열하여 제직한 후 가공하여 수축하는 정도의 차이에 의해 경사 방향으로 수축이 발생토록 한 것으로서, 수축이 일어나지 않는 경사부분은 요철로 되고 수축이 일어난 부분은 평평하게 되어 직물전체로 보면 줄무늬가 발현되도록 하고 있다. In addition, in order to produce a fabric having a three-dimensional effect such as a sheer-weave fabric, two types of yarns different in tension, thickness and twist are arranged as warp yarns, and the warp yarns are shrunk As a result, the inclined portion where shrinkage does not occur becomes concave and convex, and the portion where shrinkage occurs is flattened so that streaks are seen in the entire fabric.
이와 같은 일반적인 시어서커 직물은 폴리에스테르섬유와 면섬유의 혼방 또는 기타 화학섬유를 사용하여 제조하는데, 줄무늬 또는 체크 무늬를 띠고, 세탁이 편리하고 다림질할 필요가 없어 여름용드레스, 슈트, 파자마, 아동복, 커튼 등에 널리 사용된다. 종래에는 이러한 시어서커 직물을 고수축 폴리에스테르사와 일반 면사를 경사로 사용하여 스트라이프 모양으로 배열하여 제직한 후 염색시 가열로써 상기 고수축 폴리에스테르사를 수축시켜 시어서커 직물을 제조하였다. 이러한 시어서커 직물에 신축성을 부여하기 위하여 대한민국특허공개제10-2001-0113072호에서는 사이징하여 형태고정화시킨 폴리우레탄을 주성분으로 하는 코아를 갖는 탄성사를 경사와 위사로 사용하여 제직한후 수세하고 무장력 건조 방식으로 가공하여 양방향으로 높은 신축성을 갖는 고신축성 직물의 제조방법을 제공하고 있다. 그러나, 상기 고신축성 직물은 경사로 폴리우레탄 코어를 갖는 탄성사를 사용하고 있어 생산원가가 상승하였으며, 상기 코어로 인해 봉제부분이 세탁후에 오글오글해지는 현상인 퍼커링현상이 발생할 염려가 있으며, 탄성사의 세탁견뢰도 저하등의 문제를 갖고 있었다. Such general siracusa fabrics are made by using blend of polyester fiber and cotton fiber or other chemical fiber. They are striped or plaid and do not need to be ironed easily, so they can be used for summer dresses, suits, pajamas, Widely used. Conventionally, such siracusa fabrics are woven in a striped shape using high shrinkage polyester yarns and regular cotton yarns as warp yarns, followed by shrinkage of the high shrinkage polyester yarns by heating during dyeing to produce sheer fabric. In order to impart elasticity to such sheer fabric, Korean Patent Laid-Open Publication No. 10-2001-0113072 discloses a method of weaving yarn using warp and weft yarns using a sizing-fixed polyurethane core as a main component, So as to provide a high stretchable fabric having a high stretchability in both directions. However, since the high-elasticity fabric uses an elastic yarn having a polyurethane core at an oblique angle, the production cost is increased, and there is a possibility that the core causes the perching phenomenon, which is a phenomenon that the sewed portion becomes discolored after washing, And lowering of fastness.
그러므로 본 발명에 의하면 스판덱스사를 사용하지 않으면서도 신축성이 우수하고, 좋은 터치(Touch), Volume감을 가지며, ITY복합사가 표면으로 튀어올라오도록 하여 표면의 강력한 요철효과를 가져 입체무늬를 가지면서 쟈카드외관을 나타내는 신축성있는 고탄성직물을 제공하는 것을 기술적과제로 한다.Therefore, according to the present invention, it is possible to provide an image display device which is excellent in stretchability without using spandex yarn, has good touch and volume feeling, and has ITY composite yarn protruding to the surface, The present invention provides a stretchable high-elasticity fabric.
그러므로 본 발명에 의하면, 경사와 위사로 POY SD, PET SD필라멘트를 복합한 ITY 복합사와, 500~600T/M으로 연사된 잠재권축필라멘트를 사용하여 각각 1:1 배열하여 이중직을 제직하여 이중직 표면에는 상기 ITY 복합사가 배열되도록 하고, 이중직 이면에는 500~600T/M으로 연사된 잠재권축필라멘트가 배열되도록 한 후, 연속정련기와 액류염색기에서 120~130℃에서 정련,축소한 후, 수세, 200℃, 25~30m/분간 프리셋팅한 후 염색, 건조 후, 대전방지제 2~3중량%, 실리콘계 유연제 1~2 중량%, 및 잔부로서 물을 함유하는 피니싱가공액에 패딩한 후 190℃, 25~30m/분간 피니싱가공하는 것을 특징으로 하는 쟈카드외관을 나타내는 고탄성직물의 제조방법이 제공된다.Therefore, according to the present invention, ITY composite yarns comprising POY SD and PET SD filaments with warp and weft yarns and latent crimping filaments twisted at 500 to 600 T / M are arranged at a ratio of 1: 1 to form double yarns, The ITY composite yarns were arranged and the latent crimped filaments twisted at 500 to 600 T / M were arranged on the back side of the double yarns. The filaments were refined at 120 to 130 ° C in a continuous refining machine and a liquid dyeing machine, After dyeing and drying after preliminary setting for 25 to 30 m / min, the film was padded with 2 to 3% by weight of an antistatic agent, 1 to 2% by weight of a silicone type softening agent and a finishing liquid containing water as a remainder, / Minute finishing process is provided, wherein a high elasticity fabric exhibiting a jacquard appearance is provided.
이하 본 발명을 보다 상세히 설명하기로 한다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.
본 발명의 쟈카드외관을 나타내는 고탄성직물의 제조방법은 표면에는 ITY 복합사가 배열되도록 하고, 이면에는 500~600T/M으로 연사된 잠재권축필라멘트가 배열된 이중직을 제직하여 축소정련공정에 의해 상대적으로 열수축율이 낮은 ITY 복합사가 표면으로 튀어올라 오도록 하는 효과로 인해 표면은 강력한 요철효과를 가지면서 쟈카드외관을 나타내는 신축성있는 고탄성직물을 제조하는 방법이다.The method for producing a high elastic fabric exhibiting the appearance of a jacquard according to the present invention is characterized in that ITY composite yarns are arranged on the surface and dual yarns in which latent crimping filaments twisted at 500 to 600 T / M are arranged on the back are woven, Due to the effect of ITY composite yarn with low shrinkage ratio to protrude to the surface, the surface is a method of producing a stretchable high elasticity fabric exhibiting a Jacquard appearance while having a strong irregularity effect.
본 발명에서는 먼저 이중직을 제직하는데, 경사와 위사로 POY SD, PET SD필라멘트를 복합한 ITY 복합사와, 500~600T/M으로 연사된 잠재권축필라멘트를 사용하여 각각 1:1 배열하여 이중직을 제직하여 이중직 표면에는 상기 ITY 복합사가 배열되도록 하고, 이중직 이면에는 500~600T/M으로 연사된 잠재권축필라멘트가 배열되도록 한다. 즉, POY SD, PET SD필라멘트를 복합한 ITY 복합사와, 500~600T/M으로 연사된 잠재권축필라멘트를 사용하여 각각 1:1 배열하는데, 경사와 위사 모두에 대해 1:1로 배열되도록 하는 것이 특징이다. In the present invention, the double yarn is first weaved by arranging 1: 1 ITY composite yarns composed of POY SD and PET SD filaments with warp and weft and latent crimping filaments twisted at 500 to 600 T / M, The ITY composite yarn is arranged on the double yarn surface and the potential crimp filaments twisted at 500 to 600 T / M are arranged on the double yarn side. That is, ITY composite yarns comprising POY SD and PET SD filaments are arranged in a 1: 1 arrangement using the potential crimp filaments twisted at 500 to 600 T / M, and the yarns are arranged in a ratio of 1: 1 for both warp and weft yarns Feature.
상기 이중직에서 사용원사는 POY SD, PET SD필라멘트를 복합한 ITY 복합사와, 500~600T/M으로 연사된 잠재권축필라멘트를 사용한다. 상기 ITY 복합사는 POY SD 필라멘트와 PET SD 일반필라멘트를 인터레이스 교락한 복합사로서 소프트감과 볼륨감이 우수하다. 또 다른 사용원사인 500~600T/M으로 연사된 잠재권축필라멘트는 PET와 PTT가 사이드바이사이드 복합방사된 통상적인 잠재권축필라멘트를 500~600T/M으로 연사한 것이다. In the above double yarns, ITY composite yarns comprising POY SD and PET SD filaments and latent crimping filaments twisted at 500 to 600 T / M are used. The ITY composite yarn is a composite yarn in which POY SD filaments and PET SD general filaments are interlaced with each other, and is excellent in soft feeling and volume. The latent crimp filament, which is another source of 500 to 600 T / M, is a filament of 500 to 600 T / M, which is a conventional crimped filament with side-by-side conjugated radiation of PET and PTT.
무연상태로 사용시 마찰견뢰도가 저하하고, 필링(FILLING)이 발생하며, DRAPE성이 떨어지며, 또한 사이징(SIZING) 공정을 거치게 되면 과도한 열을 받게 되어 잠재권축필라멘트의 열수축율이 저하되어 제직시 표면요철효과가 줄어드는 문제점을 가진다. 따라서 본 발명에서는 이러한 문제점을 500~600 T/M을 부여하여 해결할 수 있게 된다.When used in a lead-free state, the friction fastness is reduced, peeling occurs, the DRAPE property is lowered, and when the sizing process is performed, the heat shrinkage of the latent crimping filament is lowered due to excessive heat, The effect is reduced. Accordingly, in the present invention, such a problem can be solved by adding 500 to 600 T / M.
상기 500~600T/M으로 연사된 잠재권축필라멘트는 연사후 85~90℃에서 30~50분간 진공상태에서 1차셋팅한 후 진공상태를 해제하고 다시 85~90℃에서 30~50분간 진공상태에서 2차셋팅하여 PTT원사에 셋팅(setting)성을 고르게 유지하도록 하고 권축율을 최대한 유지하도록 할 수 있어 바람직하다. The latent crimped filaments twisted at 500 to 600 T / M are first set in a vacuum state at 85 to 90 ° C for 30 to 50 minutes after the twisting, and then released from the vacuum state. It is preferable to set the second setting so that the setting property of the PTT yarn is maintained evenly and the crimp ratio can be kept at the maximum.
이렇게 준비된 POY SD, PET SD필라멘트를 복합한 ITY 복합사와, 500~600T/M으로 연사된 잠재권축필라멘트를 경사와 위사 모두에 대해 1:1로 배열되도록 하여 이중직을 제직하면서 표면에는 상기 ITY 복합사가 배열되도록 하고, 이중직 이면에는 500~600T/M으로 연사된 잠재권축필라멘트가 배열되도록 한다.ITY composite yarns composed of POY SD and PET SD filaments prepared in this manner and latent crimped filaments yarnized at 500 to 600 T / M were arranged at a ratio of 1: 1 for both warp and weft yarns, And arranged so that the latent crimp filaments twisted at 500 to 600 T / M are arranged.
상기 제직공정의 준비단계인 정경공정에서는 상기 경사에 파라핀 또는 왁스처리를 하는 것이 바람직한데, 본 발명에서 사용하는 원사 중 500~600T/M으로 연사된 잠재권축필라멘트는 FILAMENT 가닥수에 대한 집속성이 떨어져 제직성이 저하되므로 상기와 같이 파라핀 또는 왁스처리를 하여 필라멘트의 마찰계수를 줄임으로써 제직효율을 증대시킬 수 있다.In the regularizing process, which is the preparation step of the weaving process, it is preferable to treat the warp yarn with paraffin or wax. Among the yarns used in the present invention, the potential crimp filaments twisted at 500 to 600 T / So that the woven fabric is treated with paraffin or wax as described above to reduce the coefficient of friction of the filament, thereby increasing the weaving efficiency.
이렇게 표면에는 상기 ITY 복합사가 배열되도록 하고, 이중직 이면에는 500~600T/M으로 연사된 잠재권축필라멘트가 배열되도록 이중직을 제직한 후, 연속정련기 75~85℃, 액류염색기 120~130℃에서 정련, 축소한 후, 수세, 200℃, 25~30m/분의 스피드로 프리셋팅한 후 염색, 건조한다. The ITY composite yarns are arranged on the surface, and the double yarns are weaved so that the latent crimping filaments twisted at 500 to 600 T / M are arranged on the double yarns. The continuous filament is refined at 75 to 85 ° C, , And then pre-set at a speed of 25 to 30 m / min, washing with water, and then dyeing and drying.
상기 정련, 축소에 의해 직물중의 잠재권축필라멘트가 강력한 열수축을 하고, ITY복합사가 상대적으로 열수축율이 적게 일어나게 되어 ITY복합사가 표면으로 튀어올라오는 효과가 발현될 수 있어 표면은 강력한 요철효과를 가지면서 쟈카드외관을 나타내는 신축성있는 고탄성직물을 제공할 수 있다. 건조는 잠재권축필라멘트의 구김성과 회복성을 발현하기 위하여 180℃∼200℃에서 텐터에서 처리한다.As a result, the ITY composite yarn has a relatively low heat shrinkage ratio, so that the ITY composite yarn can be projected onto the surface, so that the surface has a strong irregularity effect Elastic high elastic fabric exhibiting a jacquard appearance can be provided. Drying is carried out in a tenter at 180 ° C to 200 ° C in order to manifest the wrinkling and recoverability of the latent crimp filaments.
이후 대전방지제 2~3중량%, 실리콘계 유연제 1~2 중량%, 불소수지계 발수제 2~3중량% 및 잔부로서 물을 함유하는 피니싱가공액에 패딩한 후 190℃, 25~30m/분의 스피드로 가공하여 소프트하면서 풍부한 볼륨감을 부여하여 본 발명의 쟈카드외관을 나타내는 고탄성직물을 제조하게 된다.Thereafter, the film is padded with 2 to 3% by weight of an antistatic agent, 1 to 2% by weight of a silicone type softening agent, 2 to 3% by weight of a fluorine resin type water repellent agent and the rest as a finishing liquid containing water, A high elasticity fabric showing a jacquard appearance of the present invention is produced.
따라서 본 발명에 의하면, 기존의 스판덱스를 사용한 직편물과 대비하여 좋은 터치(Touch), Volume감을 가지며, ITY복합사가 표면으로 튀어올라오는 효과가 발현될 수 있어 표면은 강력한 요철효과를 가지면서 쟈카드외관을 나타내는 신축성있는 고탄성직물을 제공할 수 있다.Therefore, according to the present invention, it is possible to produce a good touch and volume feeling as compared with a knitted fabric using a conventional spandex, and the effect that the ITY composite yarn splashes on the surface can be developed, ≪ / RTI > can be provided.
도 1은 본 발명의 쟈카드외관을 나타내는 고탄성직물의 표면사진이다.BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS Fig. 1 is a photograph of the surface of a high elastic fabric showing the appearance of a Jacquard of the present invention.
다음의 실시예에서는 본 발명의 쟈카드외관을 나타내는 고탄성직물을 제조하는 비한정적인 예시를 하고 있다.The following examples illustrate non-limiting examples of making high elastic fabrics exhibiting the jacquard appearance of the present invention.
[실시예 1][Example 1]
경사로 POY SD(85d/72fila), PET SD필라멘트(75d/36fila)를 복합한 ITY 복합사(160d/108fila 500T/M)와, 500T/M으로 연사된 잠재권축필라멘트(75d/36fila)를 사용하여 정경공정에서 파라핀 처리를 한 후 1:1로 배열하여 공급하고, 위사 또한 상기 경사와 같이 1:1로 배열하여 이중직을 제직하여 이중직 표면에는 ITY 복합사가 배열되도록 하고, 이중직 이면에는 500T/M으로 연사된 잠재권축필라멘트가 배열되도록 제직하였다. 상기 500T/M으로 연사된 잠재권축필라멘트는 연사후 90℃에서 30분간 진공상태에서 1차셋팅한 후 진공상태를 해제하고 다시 90℃에서 30분간 진공상태에서 2차셋팅하였다. 이중직을 제직한 후, 연속정련기에서 가성소다 5g/ℓ, 정련제 1g/ℓ를 함유시켜 75~85℃에서 연속정련, 130℃축소한 후, 수세, 200℃, 25m/분의 스피드로 프리셋팅한 후 분산염료로 130℃에서 60분간 염색하고, 수세후, 대전방지제(HS MA-7000) 2중량%, 실리콘계 유연제(HS SILICONE-77 )1중량%, 불소수지계 발수제 3중량% 및 잔부로서 물을 함유하는 피니싱가공액에 패딩한 후 190℃, 25~30m/분의 스피드로 피니싱가공하여 공정을 완료하였다.The ITY composite yarn (160d / 108fila 500T / M), which is a combination of POY SD (85d / 72fila) and PET SD filament (75d / 36fila), and a lathe crimping filament (75d / 36fila) The warp yarns are arranged at a ratio of 1: 1 as in the warp yarns, and the double yarns are weaved so that the ITY composite yarns are arranged on the double yarn surface. The warp crimped filaments were weaved to be arranged. The latent crimped filament yarn twisted at 500 T / M was first set in a vacuum state at 90 ° C for 30 minutes, then released in a vacuum state, and then set in a vacuum at 90 ° C for 30 minutes. After the double knit was woven, continuous scouring was carried out at 75 to 85 ° C by containing 5 g / l of caustic soda and 1 g / l of scouring agent in a continuous refining machine, followed by reduction at 130 ° C, and then preliminarily washing at 200 ° C and a speed of 25 m / And then dyed with a disperse dye at 130 DEG C for 60 minutes. After washing with water, 2% by weight of an antistatic agent (HS MA-7000), 1% by weight of a silicone type softening agent (HS SILICONE- , And then subjected to a finishing process at a speed of 25 to 30 m / min at 190 캜 to complete the process.
Claims (3)
상기 500~600T/M으로 연사된 잠재권축필라멘트는 연사후 85~90℃에서 30~50분간 진공상태에서 1차셋팅한 후 진공상태를 해제하고 다시 85~90℃에서 30~50분간 진공상태에서 2차셋팅하는 것을 특징으로 하는 쟈카드외관을 나타내는 고탄성직물의 제조방법.The method according to claim 1,
The latent crimped filaments twisted at 500 to 600 T / M are first set in a vacuum state at 85 to 90 ° C for 30 to 50 minutes after the twisting, and then released from the vacuum state. Wherein the second setting is a second setting.
상기 제직공정의 준비단계인 정경공정에서 상기 경사에 파라핀 또는 왁스처리를 하는 것을 특징으로 하는 쟈카드외관을 나타내는 고탄성직물의 제조방법. The method according to claim 1,
Wherein the warp yarn is subjected to a paraffin or wax treatment in a weaving process as a preparation step of the weaving process.
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| CN109763233B (en) * | 2018-11-30 | 2021-01-29 | 苏州欧尼迪纺织科技有限公司 | Weaving method of fabric texture with imitated knitting structure |
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