KR20130046997A - Cosmetic composition comprising multilamella vesicles containing red ginseng extract - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: A cosmetic composition containing multilamella vesicles including a red ginseng extract is provided to promote penetration by controlling particle size. CONSTITUTION: A cosmetic composition contains 0.001-20 wt% of multilamella vesicles including a red ginseng extract. The multilamella vesicles contains 5-30% of the red ginseng extract, 0.5-5% of ceramide, 0.5-5% of saturated lecithin, 0.5-5% of polyglycerin-10 diisostearate, 1-10% of glycerin, 1-10% of stearic acid, 5-15% of heavy chain triglyceride, and water. The cosmetic composition is a skin care composition, a body care composition, or a hair care composition.

Description

Cosmetic composition containing multi-lamellar vesicles containing red ginseng extract {COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING MULTILAMELLA VESICLES CONTAINING RED GINSENG EXTRACT}

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a multilamellar vesicle containing red ginseng extract as an active ingredient, and more particularly, to a multilamella vesicle (multilamella vesicles) of red ginseng extract using ceramide and polyglycerin-10 diisostearate. It relates to a cosmetic composition comprising.

With the recent rise of functional cosmetics, the importance of value for encapsulation is increasing day by day. Encapsulation has been attracting attention as stabilization is required because those listed as raw materials of functional cosmetics are very unstable in oxygen, water, air, light, heat and the like. On the other hand, in order for these raw materials to penetrate the skin and obtain a good effect, a delivery system is also required, and these delivery systems are classified into Microsphere (MIS), Microcapsules (MIC), and Liposome (LIP). It is used not only in cosmetics but also in industries such as chemistry, life sciences, biochemistry, medicine and pharmacy.

MIS consists of one or several high molecular materials with particle sizes of 20 nm to 2000 μm. Examples of MIS include porous silica. In cosmetics, cosmetics are applied to a micropore of porous silica, coated with silicone, and applied as functional powders. MIC is broadly similar to MIS, but consists of a polymer matrix or shell consisting of a cosmetic core material and a carrier, protective component or excipient. For example, when the so-called eggs in the cosmetics look at the essence, the internal substance is an active cosmetic ingredient in an O / W or W / O emulsion state and is surrounded by an external substance such as gelatin or sodium carrageenan.

On the other hand, LIP is a closed endoplasmic reticulum (phospholipid) is 50 ~ 10000 nm in size and consists of one or two or more membranes (unilamellar or multilamellar), it is possible to put the water or oily cosmetic ingredients in or between the membranes. The LIPs are classified into small unilamella vesicles (SUVs), large unilamella vesicles (LUVs), giant unilamella vesicles (GUVs), and multilamella vesicles (MLVs), and more than five bilayers are referred to as MLVs.

Lipids are compounds found in nature and are found in a variety of places, from egg yolks to the human nervous system, and are particularly important components of plant, animal, and microbial membranes. Lipids are defined on the basis of solubility and are almost insoluble in water and soluble in non-polar organic solvents, chloroform and acetone. Fats and oils are typical lipids only in terms of their solubility, but they do not represent all of their chemical properties. Chemically speaking, lipids are a generic term for compounds with many structural similarities with many nonpolar groups, and are classified into two important groups according to their chemical properties. The first group is a weak chain compound consisting of a long non-polar tail and a polar head, with fatty acids, triacyglycerols, sphingolipids, glycolylipids, and phosphoacylglycerols. -glycerol). The second important group is steroids, which are compounds in which ring structures are combined, the most common of which is cholesterol.

Sphingolipids include sphingosine, which does not contain glycerol but is a long chain amino alcohol, and is thus given the name. Sphingolipids are found in both flora and fauna. The simplest compound in this class is ceramide, in which one fatty acid is linked by an amide bond to the amino group of sphingosine. In sphingomyelin, the primary alcohol group of sphingosine is esterified with phosphoric acid, which in turn has an ester bond with another aminoalcohol such as choline. In other words, it can be seen that there is a structural similarity between sphingomyelin and other phospholipids.

Skin components include phospholipids, cholesterol, cholesterol sulphate, free fatty acids, glycosyl ceramides, and ceramides. Among them, ceramide is closely related to skin moisturizing and aging.

Ceramide is a type of sphingolipids having a structure in which fatty acids are linked to sphingosine or phytosphingosine. Ceramide accounts for about 40% or more of the keratinocyte lipids constituting the stratum corneum of the skin, and is an essential component in the formation and function of the stratum corneum.

Ceramides present in the human body are classified into six types according to their polarity. Ceramide is known as the most important component of the lipid components that make up the stratum corneum, called the skin barrier that protects the skin.It is excellent in containing moisture in the skin by inhibiting evaporation of moisture and in combination with moisture. It provides an optimal environment for performing metabolic functions. Newly growing skin cells are present in the form of sugar sphingolipids, which are low in ceramide content and are mainly linked to sugars. However, when new skin cells reach the stratum corneum and reach the stratum corneum, the neutral ceramide in which sugar is dropped increases, forming a hydrophobic barrier of the stratum corneum. Keratinocyte intercellular lipids are secreted by lamellar bodies called lamella bodies during differentiation of the stratum corneum, which is mainly rich in lipids such as phospholipids, glycosphingolipids and cholesterol, In addition, it has various enzymes (lipid hydrolase, glycosidase, protease, acid phosphatase, etc.).

The enzymes present in the lamellar bodies decompose polar lipids such as phospholipids and sugar sphingolipids contained in the lamellar bodies into nonpolar lipids such as ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids, thereby exposing the stratum corneum to prevent permeation of water and electrolyte. It forms an intercellular multilayer lipid membrane and serves as a barrier. Synthesis of cholesterol and free fatty acids among the major lipids of ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids that make up the skin barrier occurs immediately after the damage of the barrier, whereas the synthesis of ceramide occurs late. The proper composition of these three lipid components plays an important role in barrier function, which results in a poor supply of lipids in the case of chronic skin damage, especially in ceramides.

The polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate raw material is 100% natural plant-based glycerin and fatty acid, and glycerin derived from vegetable oil is made into polyglycerol by dehydration condensation, and then similarly obtained by ester-bonding fatty acids derived from vegetable oil. Various polyglycerin surfactants can be made according to the degree of polymerization of polyglycerol and the type of fatty acid and the degree of esterification, and is a model structural formula in which a fatty acid is ester-bonded to polyglycerol obtained by abbreviating polymerization of 10 glycerin on average. Since the degree of polymerization of polyglycerol is average, it is distributed between 10, and the degree of esterification of fatty acids (how many fatty acids are bound) is also average, and the places of binding (hydroxyl group = OH) are various. Becomes Accordingly, polyglycerol fatty acid esters are mixtures of esters having many types of structural formulas, and are hydrophilic depending on the average degree of polymerization of polyglycerols used as hydrophilic groups, the types of fatty acids used as lipophilic groups, and the number of fatty acids to be bound (degree of esterification). It is possible to obtain a wide range of HLB products from lipophilic to.

On the other hand, ginseng is divided into ginseng from the ground, white ginseng and red ginseng depending on the processing method. Red ginseng refers to light reddish-brown ginseng steamed with steam for the purpose of long-term storage of ginseng. It is processed so that the moisture content is 14% or less through the process of red ginseng and drying, and the browning reaction is promoted during the manufacturing process to have a dark brown color, and it can be stored in a solid form for up to 20 years. Chinese people believe that red ginseng is more effective as it gets older. Older red ginseng gets more expensive.

Although the history of ginseng processing is unclear, it is presumed that before the Tang dynasty of China, mainly white ginseng washed with fresh ginseng and water and sun-dried skin were used. Ming Dynasty's 『Goldang Bibi Lok』 writes “If Ginseng Chae (人蔘 採) is put in a bite (沸湯).” This means how to boil and dry it. In 1123, during the Goryeo race, Seogwang, who visited the Gaesong area after performing a national history of Song Dynasty, described the recipe for red ginseng in Goryeo Do Kyung, which recorded the life of Goryeo at the time. "Ginseng is white and light, and when it is put into medicine, its taste is perfect, but it is good to eat after summer, so it is not the only mature ginseng that can be boiled and cooked for a long time." It may be different from the current red ginseng, but the origin of the red ginseng seems to be the origin of the red ginseng recipe, which means that there are various ginseng recipes, the predecessor form of red ginseng today, from the Goryeo period and prevailing in China in the early Qing Dynasty. The red ginseng is steamed and dried by steaming shells, and it is divided into grades according to its appearance and genus. It is divided into Cheonsam (天 蔘), Jisam (地 蔘), and Yangsam (良 蔘).

The main components of red ginseng are saponins, which are glycosides, and nitrogen-containing compounds such as proteins, amino acids, nucleic acids, alkaloids, and fat-soluble components. These include fatty acids, essential oils, polyacetylenes, phenolic compounds, phytosterols, terpenoids, Sugars contain a wide variety of ingredients, including monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, polysaccharides, pectins, vitamins, minerals and alkaloids.

In general, saponins are widely distributed in the plant kingdom and are found in about 750 species of plants. The name saponin comes from the soapy microbubbles in aqueous solutions. In general, saponin component lowers the surface tension of water, so it easily foams and exhibits hemolytic action. However, ginseng saponin has been found to be mildly toxic and nontoxic, and hardly hemolytic. In addition, the ginseng saponin component is completely different from the saponins found in other plants, and accordingly, it is called a "ginsenoside" to mean a ginseng glycoside to distinguish it from other plant-based saponins. .

Red ginseng extract has high safety and anti-aging, skin wrinkles and shine, and is widely used in cosmetics. However, red ginseng extract is a water-soluble substance and the molecular weight of the active ingredient is large, so it is difficult to be absorbed by the skin. Therefore, it is very important to control the size of the red ginseng extract to penetrate the skin to produce a useful effect.

Korean Patent Application Publication No. 10-2005-0025454 describes a technique related to a cosmetic composition containing a red ginseng concentrate. That is, when the red ginseng concentrate is applied to the cosmetics as it is, problems such as disturbance of the formulation by the red ginseng saponin, which can act as a unique smell and surfactant of the red ginseng concentrate may occur, so as to overcome the red ginseng concentrate lauryl After adsorbing to methacrylate / glycol dimethacrylate crosspolymer or allyl methacrylate crosspolymer, a collector coated as a moisturizer is prepared and put into cosmetics. In addition, in Korean Patent Application Publication No. 10-2005-0029253, it contains baeknyeoncho extract, red ginseng extract, crape myrtle extract, raspberry extract and hawthorn extract (these are called “red complex”) to improve skin wrinkles and improve skin elasticity. It discloses a composition for external application to the skin to enhance and enhance skin moisturization.

On the other hand, as a technology using a multi-lamellar vesicles, Korean Patent Application Publication No. 10-2003-0055951 encapsulates cheongju into microvesicles to increase long-term preservation, and to reduce the skin irritation of cheongju itself is hypoallergenic, natural skin The present invention discloses a skin cosmetic composition that helps regenerate damaged skin without damaging a protective film, enhances skin moisture retention and skin elasticity, thereby enhancing moisture and softness to the skin, and also has excellent cleaning power. In addition, in Korean Patent Application Publication No. 10-2003-0021709 with a similar technique, retinol, which is an unstable useful substance, is first stabilized in a vesicle made of a nonionic surfactant, cholesterol, and cholesteryl ester, and then again converted into lecithin and ceramide. The present invention discloses a cosmetic composition in which a retinol, which is susceptible to oxidation from air and moisture, is triple-added by adding it to a sphingsome which is a multilamellar liposome made and finally added to a lamellar liquid crystal emulsifying base.

In the present invention, in consideration of the problems of the above-mentioned red ginseng extract, when the red ginseng extract is applied to the cosmetics by adjusting the particle size to promote transdermal absorption, according to the skin moisturizing and elasticity promoting effect is excellent cosmetic composition having an anti-aging effect The purpose is to provide.

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising a multilamellar vesicle (MLV: multilamella vesicles) containing the red ginseng extract.

Here, the multilamellar vesicles (MLV) containing the red ginseng extract is 5 to 30% red ginseng extract, 0.5 to 5% ceramide, 0.5 to 5% saturated lecithin, 0.5 to 5% polyglycerin-10 diisostearate, glycerin 1 To 10%, 1 to 10% stearic acid, 5 to 15% medium chain triglycerides and water are essential components.

In addition, the multi-lamellar vesicles (MLV) containing the red ginseng extract may be added in an amount of 0.001 to 20% by weight based on the entire cosmetic composition, preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 5.0% by weight.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention can be used as a skin care composition, a body care composition or a hair care composition.

As mentioned above, since the red ginseng extract is a water-soluble substance and its molecular weight is difficult to be absorbed by the skin, it is very important to control the size of the red ginseng extract to have a useful effect on the skin. The multilamellar vesicles (MLV) prepared according to the present invention are nanoliposomes, liposomes are closed vesicles formed into lipid bilayers and contain red ginseng extract as an aqueous phase in the vesicle space. Liposomes are known as being composed of a double layer (SUV, LUV, GUV, and MLV consisting of five or more such bilayers are known. Likewise, the skin lipids mentioned above consist of ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids and stearic acid, and form lamellar vesicles.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention contains red ginseng extract in a multilamellae vesicle made of a skin lipid-like structure, ceramide and saturated lecithin as surfactants, polyglycerol-10 diisostearate as a cosurfactant, water and glycerin as a solvent. In the multilamellar vesicles formed using stearic acid and medium chain triglycerides, red ginseng extract is contained as an active ingredient.

Looking at the manufacturing method of the multi-lamellar vesicles containing the red ginseng extract according to the present invention in detail, 5-30% red ginseng extract, 0.5-5% ceramide and 0.5-5% saturated lecithin as a surfactant, polyglycerol as an auxiliary surfactant 1000 bar with a high pressure microemulsifier using -10 diisostearate 0.5-5%, 30-30% water, 1-10% glycerin, 1-10% stearic acid and 5-15% medium chain triglycerides as solvent By passing three times in succession can be prepared multilamellar vesicles containing the red ginseng extract as an active ingredient.

The multilamellar vesicles (MLV) of the red ginseng extract prepared as described above have improved solubility in water, rapid permeability of the active ingredient and stability of the formulation, and can be added in an amount of 0.001 to 20% by weight based on the total cosmetic composition. Preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 5.0% by weight. If the content of the multi-lamellar vesicles (MLS) containing the red ginseng extract is less than 0.001% by weight, the effect can not be expected, and if it exceeds 20% by weight, the stability and economical efficiency of the cosmetic formulation is lowered.

In addition, the cosmetic composition of the present invention can be used as a skin care composition, a body care composition or a hair care composition, and can be prepared according to a conventional cosmetic preparation method.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention increases the bioavailability of the red ginseng extract with a large molecular weight by using a multi-lamellae vesicles, excellent skin moisturizing effect, skin elasticity enhancing effect, anti-aging effect according to a small amount.

1 is a particle distribution table of a multilamellar vesicle containing red ginseng extract prepared according to the present invention.
Figure 2 is a frozen electron micrograph of a multi-lamellar vesicle containing red ginseng extract prepared according to the present invention.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples. However, these Examples are only illustrative of the present invention, and the scope of the present invention is not limited to these.

Example  1: containing red ginseng extract Multi Lamellar  parcel( MLV Manufacturing

Red ginseng extract used in the present invention was used as the ginseng extract of KT. This red ginseng extract is based on ginsenoside Rg1 + Rb1 5.00 mg / g or more and moisture content of 34.0% ± 1.0%.

Table 1 shows the composition of the components for the preparation of multi-lamellar vesicles (MLV) containing the red ginseng extract according to the present invention.

Ingredients % In MLV Ceramide 5.00 Saturated lecithin 5.00 Polyglycerin-10 Diisostearate 5.00 Medium chain triglycerides 15.00 Stearic acid 3.00 glycerin 10.00 Red Ginseng Extract 20.00 With purified water Adjust to 100

The components were placed in a container and dissolved at a temperature of 80 ° C., and then mixed for 5 minutes using a homo mixer, passed three times in succession at 1,000 bars in a high pressure homogenizer, and cooled and degassed to obtain a multilamellar vesicle (MLV).

Comparative example  1: General containing red ginseng extract emulsion

Ceramide 5.00%

Saturated lecithin 5.00%

Medium Chain Triglycerides 15.00%

Stearic acid 3.00%

Polyglycerin-3 Methylglucose distearate 3.00%

Glycerin 10.00%

Red Ginseng Extract 20.00%

Add 100% purified water.

The components were placed in a container and dissolved at a temperature of 80 ° C., then mixed for 5 minutes using a homo mixer, cooled, and defoamed to obtain a general emulsion.

Test Example  One: Multi Lamellar  parcel( MLV Particle distribution () Photal , ELS -Z measurement)

As a result of measuring the particle distribution of the multilamellar vesicles (MLV) prepared in Example 1 using Photal and ELS-Z, it can be seen that the average particle size is 112 nm.

1 is a particle distribution table of a multilamellar vesicle containing red ginseng extract prepared according to the present invention.

Test Example  2: Of nanoemulsion   Particle photograph (freezing electron microscope measurement)

Since the multilamellar vesicles (MLV) prepared in Example 1 were too small to measure with a general optical microscope, they were photographed using a Free Graphing Freeze-Fracture Scanning Electron Microscopy.

Figure 2 is a frozen electron micrograph of a multi-lamellar vesicle containing red ginseng extract prepared according to the present invention, it can be seen that the MLV is well formed.

Effect Test Example  1: red ginseng extract MLV of Transdermal  Absorption promoting effect

Female hairless guinea pigs (strain IAF / HA-hrBR) of about 8 weeks were used. The abdominal skin of the guinea pig was excised and mounted on a Franz-type diffusion cell (Lab fine instruments, Korea). 50 mM phosphate buffer (pH 7.4, 0.1M Nacl) was added to a receptor container (5 ml) of a Franz-type diffusion cell, and the diffusion cell was mixed and dispersed at 32 ° C. and 600 rpm. , 50 μl of the MLV and the general emulsion containing the red ginseng extract prepared in Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 were placed in a donor container. Absorption and diffusion were carried out according to a predetermined time, and skin where absorption and diffusion occurred was 0.64 cm 2. After the absorption and diffusion of the active ingredient is finished, wash the emulsion remaining on the skin that has not been absorbed with dried Kimwaphs or 10 ml of ethanol, and change the skin where the active ingredient is absorbed and diffused using a tip-type equalizer. The red ginseng extract (amount of saponin) absorbed into the skin was extracted using 4 ml of dichloromethane. The extract was then filtered through a 0.45 μm nylon membrane filtration membrane, and the content was measured according to HPLC method under the following conditions. The results are shown in Table 2.

HPLC conditions

A) Column: C18 (4.6 × 200 mm, 5 μm)

B) mobile phase: methanol: hexane = 2: 1

C) flow rate: 0.8 ml / min

D) Detector: UV 275 nm

Percutaneous absorption (㎍) Percutaneous absorption increase rate MLV 4.00 10 times General emulsion 0.40 -

MLV containing the red ginseng extract prepared according to the present invention can be seen that the MLV is very well formed as shown in the particle picture. In addition, the intercellular lipids are between 100 and 200 nm, and the particle size of the MLV is 112 nm. As shown in the gastric percutaneous absorption promoting effect test results, the red ginseng extract MLV prepared according to the present invention penetrates into the skin very quickly compared to the general emulsion. As can be seen, it is expected to exhibit an excellent effect accordingly.

Example  2 and Comparative example  2: Contains red ginseng extract Cosmetics

To the cosmetic composition of Example 2 and Comparative Example 2 according to the composition shown in Table 3. In Example 2, the red ginseng extract MLV of Example 1 having good transdermal absorption is used, and in Comparative Example 2, the general emulsion containing the red ginseng extract of Comparative Example 1 is used.

division Raw material Example 2 Comparative Example 2 Water component 1 Purified water Balance Balance glycerin 5.0 5.0 Butylene glycol 3.0 3.0 Arginine Suitable amount Suitable amount Acrylate / C10-30 Alkylacrylate Crosspolymer Suitable amount Suitable amount Oily ingredient Cyclofantasiloxane 2.5 2.5 Cyclohexasiloxane 2.5 2.5 Di-C12-13 alkylmaleate 3.0 3.0 Dimethicone 3.0 3.0 vegetable oil 2.0 2.0 Sheer butter 2.0 2.0 Stearyl alcohol 1.0 1.0 Steares-2 Suitable amount Suitable amount Steareth-20 Suitable amount Suitable amount Glyceryl stearate 1.0 1.0 Mango Butter 3.0 3.0 Water component 2 MLVV containing red ginseng extract of Example 1 2.0 - General emulsion containing red ginseng extract of Comparative Example 1 - 2.0 Phenoxyethanol Suitable amount Suitable amount

The manufacturing process is as follows: All of the aqueous phase component 1 was added and mixed uniformly, all the oil phase components were added and mixed uniformly, and then the mixture of the oil phase component was added to the mixture of the aqueous phase component 1 and mixed. Water phase component 2 was added thereto, mixed, filtered and stored.

Effect Test Example  2: red ginseng extract MLV Containing Cosmetic  Moisturizing effect

The creams of Example 2 and Comparative Example 2 were applied to 15 healthy female subjects, and skin moisture content was measured using a corneometer before sample application, 2 hours after application, 4 hours after application, and 8 hours after application. .

As a result of analyzing the change in the measured value of the instrumental analysis using the corneometer, Example 2 obtained 5%, 12%, and 16% higher than 2, 4, and 8 hours after the sample application, respectively. Therefore, when using the cosmetic composition of Example 2, it can be seen that the moisturizing effect is higher than in Comparative Example 2.

Effect Test Example  3: red ginseng extract MLV Containing Cosmetic  Skin elasticity enhancing effect

A skin elasticity tester (Cutometer SEM 575) was used after 20 healthy female subjects divided the cosmetics of Example 2 and Comparative Example 2 into the left and right sides of the face twice a day for 4 weeks at a temperature of 24 to 26 ° C. and a relative humidity of 75%. Skin elasticity was measured using. The test results are shown in Table 4 below.

Trial product Skin elasticity effect Example 2 0.45 Comparative Example 2 0.30

As shown in the results of Table 4, it can be confirmed that the cosmetic of Example 2 containing the red ginseng extract-containing MLV has an excellent effect on skin elasticity improvement compared to Comparative Example 2 including a general emulsion.

As shown in the above test results, it can be confirmed that the cosmetic composition containing the red ginseng extract multi-lamellar vesicle has an anti-aging effect due to its excellent skin moisturizing effect and skin elasticity improving effect.

Claims (4)

Cosmetic composition comprising multilamellar vesicles (MLV: multilamella vesicles) containing red ginseng extract. According to claim 1, wherein the multi-lamellae vesicles containing red ginseng extract is 5 to 30% red ginseng extract, 0.5 to 5% ceramide, 0.5 to 5% saturated lecithin, 0.5 to 5% polyglycerin-10 diisostearate, glycerin 1 To 10%, stearic acid 1 to 10%, heavy chain triglycerides 5 to 15% and water as a cosmetic composition characterized in that the essential components. According to claim 1, wherein the multi-lamellae vesicles containing red ginseng extract is a cosmetic composition, characterized in that 0.001 to 20% by weight based on the entire cosmetic composition. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition is a skin care composition, a body care composition or a hair care composition.

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