KR20090132810A - Process of dyeing for wool/polylacticacid-fiber ply-yarn - Google Patents

Process of dyeing for wool/polylacticacid-fiber ply-yarn Download PDF

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KR20090132810A
KR20090132810A KR1020080058979A KR20080058979A KR20090132810A KR 20090132810 A KR20090132810 A KR 20090132810A KR 1020080058979 A KR1020080058979 A KR 1020080058979A KR 20080058979 A KR20080058979 A KR 20080058979A KR 20090132810 A KR20090132810 A KR 20090132810A
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South Korea
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dyeing
wool
weight
owf
polylactic acid
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KR1020080058979A
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KR100988978B1 (en
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송병갑
박성민
김지연
권일준
윤승로
민웅기
이경남
박성동
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한국염색기술연구소
(주)스카이다이텍
재단법인대구경북디자인센터
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/02Material containing basic nitrogen
    • D06P3/04Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups
    • D06P3/14Wool
    • D06P3/16Wool using acid dyes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06BTREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B15/00Removing liquids, gases or vapours from textile materials in association with treatment of the materials by liquids, gases or vapours
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/37Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/39Aldehyde resins; Ketone resins; Polyacetals
    • D06M15/423Amino-aldehyde resins
    • D06M15/427Amino-aldehyde resins modified by alkoxylated compounds or alkylene oxides
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/37Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/63Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds containing sulfur in the main chain, e.g. polysulfones
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M23/00Treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, characterised by the process
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/02Wool
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Coloring (AREA)
  • Biological Depolymerization Polymers (AREA)

Abstract

PURPOSE: A dyeing method for wool and ply-yarn of polylactic acid-fiber is provided to prevent degradation of property of wool and polylactic acid-fiber through pre-processing conditions, optimized dyeing conditions, and post-processing conditions etc. CONSTITUTION: A dyeing method for wool and ply-yarn of polylactic acid-fiber includes the following steps of: bonding wool spun yarn and polylactic acid-fiber spun yarn; refining the manufactured ply yarn in a neutral bath containing a polyoxyethylene alkyl ester-based scouring agent and water; dyeing the ply yarn with dissolved liquid; post-processing the dyed ply yarn; processing the ply yarn with a softening agent bath in which a silicon-based softener, CH3COOH and water are mixed; and evaporating moisture from the ply yarn.

Description

양모와 폴리유산섬유의 합연사의 염색방법{Process Of Dyeing For Wool/Polylacticacid-fiber Ply-yarn}Process of Dyeing For Wool / Polylacticacid-fiber Ply-yarn}

본 발명은 양모와 대표적인 생분해성 섬유인 폴리유산섬유의 합연사를 제조하여 양모와 폴리유산섬유 모두의 물성을 저하시키지 않고 상대섬유에의 오염이 발생하지 않는 전처리 조건, 최적 염색 조건, 염색 후 후처리 조건 및 제직 후 후가공 조건 등 일련의 공정을 확립하는 방법에 관한 것이다. The present invention is made of a twisted yarn of wool and polylactic acid fiber, which is a representative biodegradable fiber, pretreatment condition, optimal dyeing condition, post-dyeing, without deterioration of the properties of both wool and polylactic fiber It relates to a method of establishing a series of processes such as treatment conditions and post-weaving post-processing conditions.

본 발명은 양모섬유와 폴리유산섬유의 합연사에 관한 것으로서 보다 상세하게는 웰빙시대에 부합하는 인체친화형 고급 양모 혼방 제품화를 위하여 양모섬유와 폴리유산섬유를 이용한 합연사의 염색 및 후처리 방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a twisted yarn of wool fibers and polylactic acid fibers, and more particularly, to dyeing and post-treatment methods of twisted yarns using wool fibers and polylactic acid fibers for the production of human-friendly high-quality wool blends suitable for the well-being era. It is about.

양모는 동물의 털을 사용하므로 합성섬유나 기타 천연섬유와 달리 염색법이 매우 까다로운 소재이다. 양모의 끝(tip)부분은 일광, 공기, 비 등에 더 많이 노출되어 있어 상해를 많이 받은 상태이고, 양모의 뿌리(root)부분은 상대적으로 상해가 적다. 또한 양의 종류와 신체부위에 따라 상해를 받는 정도가 틀리고 양모의 굵기나 길이도 다양하므로 염색 시 skitteriness가 발생하지 않도록 하기 위해 염료 의 선택이나 염색 조건에 주의가 필요한 섬유이다.Wool uses animal hair, which is why dyeing is very difficult, unlike synthetic and other natural fibers. The tip of the wool is more exposed to sunlight, air, and rain, and is injured. The root of the wool is relatively less injured. In addition, since the degree of injury is different according to the type of sheep and the body part, and the thickness and length of the wool are varied, it is necessary to pay attention to the dye selection or dyeing conditions in order to prevent skitteriness during dyeing.

양모는 폴리에스테르 등과의 혼방을 통해 외의류로 많이 제품화되었다. 양모/폴리에스테르 혼방 제품의 예를 들면 실이나 직물 상태로 염색을 하고 가끔 top 염색도 한다. 침염공정은 HT package염색기, overflow, 자동화된 제트 염색기 등에서 이루어진다. 때때로 오픈된 윈치에서 하기도 한다. 그러나 이러한 염색법은 경제적이지 못하고, 환경 친화적이지도 못하다.Wool has been commercialized a lot in outer clothing through blending with polyester and the like. Wool / polyester blends, for example, are dyed in yarn or fabric and sometimes top dyed. Immersion is done in HT package dyeing machines, overflows and automated jet dyeing machines. Sometimes in open winches. However, this dyeing method is not economical and environmentally friendly.

현재의 섬유산업은 단순한 패션 기반의 의류제품에서 벗어나 고기능성을 가지거나 인체 친화적이고 환경을 보호하는 웰빙소재쪽으로 기술개발이 치열하게 이루어지고 있는 실정이다. 특히 합성섬유 위주의 의류 환경에 살고 있는 우리는 사용 후 폐기되어도 환경문제를 초래하지 않는 생분해성 섬유에 주의를 기울일 필요가 있다. The current textile industry is not only a fashion-based apparel product, but technology development is intensifying toward well-being materials that have high functionality or human-friendly and environmental protection. In particular, we live in a synthetic textile-based garment environment, and we need to pay attention to biodegradable fibers that do not cause environmental problems when disposed of after use.

상기 생분해성 섬유는 '미생물에 의해 섬유 내에 도입된 사슬이 절단되어 무기물화 되는 섬유'로 정의할 수 있는데, 대표적인 생분해성 섬유로는 대나무섬유, polylactic acid(PLA,폴리유산)섬유, 텐셀, 키토산섬유, 콩섬유 등을 들 수 있다. 이러한 섬유는 인체 친화형 소재이므로 아토피성 피부염 등 민감한 피부를 가진 소비자에게 크게 어필할 수 있어 상품성도 높다고 할 수 있다.The biodegradable fibers may be defined as 'fibers in which the chains introduced into the fibers by the microorganisms are inorganicized', and representative biodegradable fibers include bamboo fibers, polylactic acid (PLA, polylactic acid) fibers, tencels and chitosans. Fiber, soybean fiber, and the like. Since the fiber is a human-friendly material, it can appeal to consumers with sensitive skin such as atopic dermatitis, and thus can be said to have high marketability.

이 중 폴리유산(PolylActic Acid; PLA)섬유는 단일 섬유로 직·편물형태로 활용하거나, 면,양모,견 등의 천연섬유나 레이온 등과 혼용이 가능하며, 경량감이 있는 새로운 촉감의 소재로 기대를 모으고 있다. 그러나 현재 시점에서 상품화 전개를 살펴보면 상품화는 미흡한 실정이다.Among these, PolyActic Acid (PLA) fiber can be used as a single fiber in the form of woven or knitted fabrics, or can be mixed with natural fibers such as cotton, wool, and dogs, and rayon, and is expected to be a new material with a light feel. Are gathering. However, considering the development of commercialization at this point, commercialization is insufficient.

폴리유산섬유는 경량감과 드레이프성이 우수한 소프트한 촉감을 가지고 광굴절율과 광반사율이 낮아 선명한 색상을 얻을 수 있지만, 융점이 170℃이고 유리전이온도가 57℃정도로서 내열성이 낮고, 알칼리에 약하며, 염색에 필요한 다양한 염료가 개발되어 있지 않아 실용화시 구체적으로 해결해야 할 문제점이 많다. Polylactic acid fiber has a soft touch with excellent lightness and drape, and has a low light refractive index and low light reflectance, so that clear color can be obtained, but melting point is 170 ℃ and glass transition temperature is about 57 ℃, which is low in heat resistance, weak in alkali, and dyed. There are many problems that need to be specifically solved for practical use because various dyes are not developed.

폴리유산섬유는 결정성 지방족 폴리에스테르 구조이므로 폴리에스테르와 비슷한 물성을 가져 분산염료로 염색이 가능하지만, 일반 폴리에스테르보다 염착속도가 빠르다. 따라서 기존 폴리에스테르/양모 혼방 염색가공기술을 그대로 적용할 경우 폴리유산섬유에 빠르게 염착된 분산염료가 다시 빠져나와서 상대섬유에 오염을 일으키고 견뢰도를 저하시키는 현상이 발생하게 된다. 즉 견뢰도 저하, 오염에 의한 저 발색성, 이색성 문제 등이 발생하게 된다. 또 폴리유산섬유는 염착속도는 폴리에스테르보다 빠르지만, 포화염착량은 폴리에스테르의 1/6에 불과하므로 최종 염착량이 감소하여 염색효율이 줄어들게 된다. 그 밖에 열에 약하므로 110℃가 최대 가능온도이며 이 이상일 때 직물에 손상이 발생한다. Since polylactic acid fiber has a crystalline aliphatic polyester structure, it can be dyed with a disperse dye because it has properties similar to those of polyester, but has a faster dyeing speed than general polyester. Therefore, if the existing polyester / wool blend dyeing processing technology is applied as it is, disperse dyes rapidly dyed in polylactic acid fibers come out again, causing contamination to the relative fibers and lowering the fastness. That is, the fall of fastness, low color development due to contamination, dichroic problems, and the like. In addition, the dyeing speed of polylactic acid fiber is faster than that of polyester, but since the amount of saturated dyeing is only 1/6 of the polyester, the final dyeing amount is reduced, which reduces dyeing efficiency. In addition, it is weak to heat, so 110 ℃ is the maximum possible temperature.

또한, 견뢰도를 개선하기 위해 폴리유산섬유를 먼저 염색한 후 양모를 염색하는 2욕 염색법을 적용하게 되면 1욕염색법보다 에너지, 용수, 시간적인 면에서 생산원가를 상승시키는 요인이 된다. 그러나 산성염료로 염색되는 양모와 분산염료로 염색되는 폴리유산섬유를 함께 1욕에서 염색하게 되면, 상대섬유로의 오염과 견뢰도 저하가 가장 큰 문제가 된다.In addition, if the two-bath dyeing method of dyeing the polylactic fiber and then dyeing the wool to improve the fastness is applied, it becomes a factor that increases the production cost in terms of energy, water, and time than the one bath dyeing method. However, when dyeing wool dyed with acid dyes and polylactic acid dyed dyes in one bath together in one bath, contamination with the relative fibers and a decrease in color fastness are the biggest problems.

따라서 본 발명에서는 양모와 대표적인 생분해성 섬유인 폴리유산섬유의 합연사의 염색 및 후처리공정에서 양모와 폴리유산섬유 모두의 물성을 저하시키지 않고 상대섬유에의 오염이 발생하지 않는 전처리 조건, 적정염료 선정, 최적 염색 조건, 염색 후 후처리 조건을 제공하여 일련의 공정을 확립함으로써 환경친화적인 양모와 폴리유산섬유 혼방제품을 제조하는 것을 목적으로 한다.Therefore, in the present invention, in the dyeing and post-treatment process of the polylactic fiber of wool and polylactic acid fiber, which is a representative biodegradable fiber, pretreatment conditions and appropriate dyes do not deteriorate the physical properties of both wool and polylactic acid fiber, and contamination does not occur. It aims to produce environmentally friendly wool and polylactic fiber blend products by establishing a series of processes by providing selection, optimal dyeing conditions and post-dyeing conditions.

본 발명에 의하면 양모방적사와 폴리유산섬유방적사를 30:70~70:30의 비율로 공급하여 연수 S 650~700, 8000~9000 r.p.m.에서 합연하는 합연공정, 상기 제조된 합연사를 폴리옥시에틸렌알킬에스테르계 정련제 0.1∼0.3중량% 및 잔부로 물을 함유하는 중성욕에서 60~70℃, 10~30분간 처리하는 정련공정, 상기 정련공정 후 방향족술폰산계 균염제 0.3∼0.7 o.w.f., 술포네이트계 분산제 0.3∼0.7 o.w.f., CH3COOH 0.8∼1.5% o.w.f., CH3COONa 0.8∼1.5% o.w.f., 에톡실화지방산과 폴리히드릭 알코올을 함유하는 양모보호제 3.0∼5.0% o.w.f., 기포방지제 0.3∼0.7 o.w.f. 및 잔부로 물을 함유하는 염색욕을 준비하고 pH 4.5∼5.0로 조절하면서 상기 염색욕에 폴리유산섬유염색용 분산염료와 양모염색용 산성염료를 45~55℃에서 투입하여 용해한 후, 100 ~ 110℃에서 40~50분간 상기 합연사를 동시에 염색하는 1욕 염색 공정, 상기 염색공정 후 폴리옥시에틸렌알킬에스테르계 정련제 0.1∼0.3중량%와 NH4OH 0.08∼0.2중량% 및 잔부로서 물을 혼합하여 준비한 후처리액에서 pH 8~9에서 60~65℃, 15~30분간 처리하는 후처리 공정, 상기 후처리 공정 후 실리콘계 유연제 0.1∼0.3중량%와 CH3COOH 0.03∼0.08중량% 및 잔부로서 물을 혼합한 유연제욕에 투입하여 50~60℃, 15~30분간 처리하는 유연제 처리공정, 상기 유연제 처리공정 후 적외선 건조기에 통과시켜 저온에서 수분을 증발시키는 적외선 건조 공정으로 이루어지는 것을 특징으로 하는 양모와 폴리유산섬유의 합연사의 염색 방법이 제공된다.According to the present invention, the wool spun yarn and the polylactic acid fiber spun yarn are fed at a ratio of 30:70 to 70:30, and the splicing process of combining at soft water S 650 to 700 and 8000 to 9000 rpm. A refining process for 60 to 70 DEG C for 10 to 30 minutes in a neutral bath containing 0.1 to 0.3% by weight of an ester refining agent and water to remainder, an aromatic sulfonic acid leveling agent 0.3 to 0.7 owf after the refining step, and a sulfonate dispersant 0.3 -0.7 owf, CH 3 COOH 0.8-1.5% owf, CH 3 COONa 0.8-1.5% owf, wool protective agent containing ethoxylated fatty acid and polyhydric alcohol 3.0-5.0% owf, antifoam 0.3-0.7 owf and balance After preparing a dyeing bath containing water and adjusting the pH to 4.5-5.0, disperse the polylactic acid dye dye and wool dyeing acid dye at 45 ~ 55 ℃ in the dye bath to dissolve, 40 at 100 ~ 110 ℃ 1 bath dyeing process for dyeing the plywood yarn at the same time for ~ 50 minutes, After the dyeing process group a polyoxyethylene alkyl ester type refiner 0.1 to 0.3% by weight of NH 4 OH 0.08~0.2 60 ~ 65 ℃ at pH 8 ~ 9 in the treatment solution after prepared by mixing water as a% by weight and the balance, 15 to 30 After the post-treatment process for a minute, after the post-treatment process, 0.1 to 0.3% by weight of the silicone-based softener, 0.03 to 0.08% by weight of CH 3 COOH, and the remainder were added to the softening bath mixed with water and treated for 50 to 60 ° C. for 15 to 30 minutes. A softening agent processing step, and the dyeing method of the twisted yarn of the wool and polylactic acid fiber, characterized in that it consists of an infrared drying process to pass through the infrared dryer after the softening agent treatment step to evaporate moisture at a low temperature.

이하 본 발명을 보다 상세히 설명하기로 한다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

본 발명의 양모와 폴리유산섬유 합연사제품을 제조하기 위해서는 합연사 제조, 전처리, 염색, 후처리, 제직, 후가공 등의 일련의 공정을 거치게 된다.In order to manufacture the wool and polylactic fiber conjugated twisted yarn products of the present invention, a series of processes such as twisted yarn manufacture, pretreatment, dyeing, post-treatment, weaving, and post-processing are performed.

우선, 양모방적사와 폴리유산섬유방적사를 30:70~70:30의 비율로 공급하여 연수 S 650~700, 8000~9000 r.p.m.에서 합연하는데, 일례로 양모방적사(50'S/1(모번수))와 폴리유산방적사(30'S/1(면번수)) 각각을 50:50의 비율로 합연하여 양모/폴리유산 합연사 50'S/2(모번수)를 제조한다. 혼방사로 제조하려면 길이가 65mm이상인 폴리유산섬유가 필요하나, 생산되는 폴리유산섬유는 섬유장이 38∼51mm로 비교적 짧아서 양모와 혼방이 불가능하였기 때문에 상기와 같이 별도로 각각의 방적사를 제조한 후 합연한다. 합사기는 이태리의 FADIS, 연사기는 일본제 MURATA기기를 사용하는 것이 좋다.First, the wool spun yarn and polylactic acid fiber spun yarn are fed at a ratio of 30:70 to 70:30 and coalesced at soft water S 650 to 700 and 8000 to 9000 rpm. For example, wool spun yarn (50'S / 1 Each of the polylactic acid spun yarns 30'S / 1 (cotton number) is combined at a ratio of 50:50 to prepare wool / polylactically bonded twisted yarn 50'S / 2 (number of times). To produce a blended yarn, polylactic acid fiber having a length of 65 mm or more is required, but the produced polylactic acid fiber is 38 to 51 mm in length and relatively short. It is advisable to use Italian-made FADIS for the copier and a Japanese-made MURATA machine.

상기 합연사는 염색공정 전에 불순물을 제거하는 전처리 공정을 거치게 된다. 기존의 양모와 폴리에스테르 혼방사는 전처리 공정인 정련시 정련제와 강알칼리인 NaOH를 사용하였으나, 본 발명에서 사용된 폴리유산섬유는 내알칼리성이 약하므로 폴리옥시에틸렌알킬에스테르계 정련제 0.1∼0.3중량%와 잔부로 물을 함유하는 중성욕에서 60~70℃, 10~30분간 처리한다. The twisted yarn is subjected to a pretreatment step of removing impurities before the dyeing step. Conventional wool and polyester blend yarns used NaOH, a refining agent and a strong alkali during the refining process, but the polylactic acid fibers used in the present invention have weak alkali resistance, so that 0.1 to 0.3% by weight of polyoxyethylene alkyl ester refining agent In a neutral bath containing water for 60 to 70 ℃, 10-30 minutes.

다음으로 합연사를 염색하기 위해 내열성이 약한 폴리유산섬유과 양모의 특성을 고려하여 최적 염색온도를 100~110℃로 정한다. 양모와 폴리에스테르 혼방사의 경우는 100∼120℃에서 염색이 이루어지지만, 폴리유산섬유는 120℃이상에서 염색한 결과 강도저하가 발생할 수 있다. 그리고 양모와 폴리에스테르 혼방사 염색에 사용되는 분산염료로 110℃에서 폴리유산섬유를 염색한 결과 대부분의 염료가 폴리에스테르 염색의 경우와 비교하여 염착량이 50∼60%미만으로 나타날 수 있다. 이를 개선하기 위하여 아세테이트용 분산염료 및 S, E, SE type등 여러 염료로 110℃에서 염색한 결과, 아세테이트용 분산염료 및 입자가 작은 E type, SE type 염료에서 80∼90%까지의 염착율을 나타낼 수 있다. 그러나 이들도 yellow, red, blue 단색에서 염착율이 높더라도 세 염료의 혼합염색에서는 한 컬러가 염착량이 낮아지는 등의 문제가 발생한다. 따라서 폴리유산섬유 염색용 분산염료를 선정하기 위해서는 타입별로 일괄 선정하는 것이 아니라 개개의 염료에 대한 충분한 사전 테스트를 거쳐서 선정해야 할 것이다. Next, in order to dye the twisted yarn, the optimal dyeing temperature is set to 100 ~ 110 ℃ in consideration of the properties of polylactic acid fiber and wool having low heat resistance. Wool and polyester blended yarns are dyed at 100 to 120 ° C, but polylactic acid fibers may be dyed at more than 120 ° C, resulting in reduced strength. In addition, as a result of dyeing polylactic acid fiber at 110 ° C. with a disperse dye used for dyeing wool and polyester blend yarns, the amount of dyes may be less than 50 to 60% compared to the case of polyester dyeing. In order to improve this, dyes were dispersed at 110 ° C. with various dyes such as acetate, S, E, and SE types. Can be represented. However, even if these dyes have a high dyeing rate in yellow, red, and blue monochromatic dyes, there is a problem in that one dye has a low dyeing amount in the mixed dyeing of three dyes. Therefore, in order to select dispersion dyes for dyeing polylactic fiber, it should be selected through sufficient pre-test for individual dyes, not collectively.

염색욕은 염료의 접근을 쉽고 균일하게 하기 위하여 방향족술폰산계 균염제 0.3∼0.7 o.w.f., 술포네이트계 분산제 0.3∼0.7 o.w.f., CH3COOH 0.8∼1.5% o.w.f., CH3COONa 0.8∼1.5% o.w.f., 에톡실화지방산과 폴리히드릭알코올을 함유하는 양모보호제 3.0∼5.0% o.w.f., 기포방지제 0.3∼0.7 o.w.f. 및 잔부로 물을 함유하는 염색욕을 준비하고 pH 4.5∼5.0으로 조절하면서 상기 염색욕에 폴리유산섬유염색용 분산염료와 양모염색용 산성염료를 45~55℃에서 투입하여 용해하여 준비한다. 상기 기포방지제는 광물유계 기포방지제 또는 실리콘계 기포방지제를 사용하는 것이 바람직하다. 염색은 100~110℃에서 40~50분간, 양모와 폴리유산섬유가 동시에 염색되는 1욕 염색을 실시한다. Dyeing baths are used to make dyes more accessible and homogeneous, aromatic sulfonic acid leveling agents 0.3 to 0.7 owf, sulfonate dispersants 0.3 to 0.7 owf, CH 3 COOH 0.8 to 1.5% owf, CH 3 COONa 0.8 to 1.5% owf, ethoxylation Prepare a dyeing bath containing 3.0-5.0% owf of fatty acid and polyhydric alcohol, 0.3-0.7 owf of anti-foaming agent, and water with balance, and adjust the pH to 4.5-5.0 Disperse dyes and acid dyes for wool dyeing at 45 ~ 55 ℃ to prepare by dissolving. It is preferable to use a mineral oil-based antifoaming agent or a silicone-based antifoaming agent. Dyeing is performed one bath dyeing for 40 to 50 minutes at 100 ~ 110 ℃, wool and polylactic acid fiber at the same time.

일반적인 양모/폴리에스테르 합연사의 경우에는 염색 후 견뢰도를 향상시키기 위해서는 환원제인 Na2S2O4와 NaOH를 사용한 환원세정을 통해 미고착염료를 제거하게 되는데, 본 발명의 양모와 폴리유산섬유의 합연사의 경우는 약한 내알칼리성을 고려하여 환원세정을 실시하지 않고, 폴리옥시에틸렌알킬에스테르계 정련제 0.1∼0.3중량%와 약 알칼리성인 NH4OH 0.08∼0.2중량% 및 잔부로서 물을 혼합한 후처리액에 투입하여 pH 8~9에서 60~65℃, 15~30분간 후처리한다. In the case of general wool / polyester twisted yarn, unfixed dye is removed by reducing washing with Na 2 S 2 O 4 and NaOH to reduce the fastness after dyeing. If the sum CS is not subjected to reduction cleaning in consideration of the weak alkali, then a solution of water as a polyoxyethylene alkyl ester type refiner 0.1 to 0.3 wt% and about alkaline NH 4 OH 0.08~0.2 wt% and the balance The solution is added to the treatment solution and treated after 60 to 65 ° C. for 15 to 30 minutes at pH 8-9.

다음으로 양모와 폴리유산섬유의 물리적인 안정을 위해 유연제 처리를 실시하는데, 실리콘계 유연제 0.1∼0.3중량%와 CH3COOH 0.03∼0.08중량% 및 잔부로서 물을 혼합한 유연제욕에 투입하여 50~60℃, 15~30분간 처리한다. 상기 실리콘계 유연제는 폴리에틸렌/폴리실록산 화합물을 함유하는 것을 사용하는 것이 바람직하다. 유연제 처리 후에는 적외선 건조기에 통과시켜 저온에서 수분을 증발시킨다.Next, a softener treatment is performed to physically stabilize the wool and polylactic acid fiber. The softener is 0.1 to 0.3 wt% of silicone-based softener, 0.03 to 0.08 wt% of CH 3 COOH, and 50 to 60 wt% of the softener is mixed with water. Process for 15 to 30 minutes at ℃. It is preferable to use the silicone type softener which contains a polyethylene / polysiloxane compound. After the softener treatment, water is passed through an infrared dryer to evaporate moisture at low temperatures.

본 발명에서는 블랙컬러의 염색을 위해 다음과 같이 2욕염색을 할 수 있다.In the present invention, the two baths can be dyed as follows for dyeing the black color.

양모방적사와 폴리유산섬유방적사를 30:70~70:30의 비율로 공급하여 연수 S 650~700, 8000~9000 r.p.m.에서 합연하는 합연공정, 상기 제조된 합연사를 폴리옥시에틸렌알킬에스테르계 정련제 0.1∼0.3중량% 및 잔부로 물을 함유하는 중성욕에서 60~70℃, 10~30분간 처리하는 정련공정, 상기 정련공정 후 술포네이트계 분산제 0.3∼0.7 o.w.f., CH3COOH 0.8∼1.5% o.w.f., CH3COONa 0.8∼1.5% o.w.f., 에톡실화지방산과 폴리히드릭알코올을 함유하는 양모보호제 3.0∼5.0% o.w.f., 기포방지제 0.3∼0.7 % o.w.f. 및 잔부로 물을 함유하는 염색욕을 준비하고 pH 4.5∼5.0로 조절하면서 상기 염색욕에 분산염료를 투입하여 폴리유산섬유부분을 먼저 염색한 후, Na2S2O4 0.1∼0.3중량%, 폴리옥시에틸렌알킬에스테르계 정련제 0.1∼0.3중량%, NH4OH 0.1~0.3중량% 잔부로서 물을 함유하는 세정액으로 처리하는 환원세정공정을 거친 후 산성염료로 양모섬유부분을 염색하는 2욕염색 공정, 상기 염색공정 후 폴리옥시에틸렌알킬에스테르계 정련제 0.1∼0.3중량%와 NH4OH 0.08∼0.2중량% 및 잔부로서 물을 혼합하여 준비한 후처리액에서 pH 8~9에서 60~65℃, 15~30분간 처리하는 후처리 공정, 상기 후처리 공정 후 실리콘계 유연제 0.1∼0.3중량%와 CH3COOH 0.03∼0.08중량% 및 잔부로서 물을 혼합한 유연제욕에 투입하여 50~60℃, 15~30분간 처리하는 유연제 처리공정, 상기 유연제 처리공정 후 적외선 건조기에 통과시켜 저온에서 수분을 증발시키는 적외선 건조 공정으로 이루어지는 것을 특징으로 하는 양모 와 폴리유산섬유의 합연사의 염색 방법이 제공된다.Combined process of feeding wool spun yarn and polylactic acid fiber spun yarn at a ratio of 30:70 to 70:30 and combining at soft water S 650 to 700 and 8000 to 9000 rpm, the prepared twisted yarn is a polyoxyethylene alkyl ester-based refiner 0.1 A refining process for 60 to 70 DEG C for 10 to 30 minutes in a neutral bath containing -0.3% by weight and water in the remainder, after the refining step, a sulfonate dispersant 0.3 to 0.7 owf, CH 3 COOH 0.8 to 1.5% owf, Prepare a dyeing bath containing CH 3 COONa 0.8-1.5% owf, wool protecting agent 3.0-5.0% owf containing ethoxylated fatty acid and polyhydric alcohol, anti-foaming agent 0.3-0.7% owf and remainder and pH 4.5- Dispersion dye was added to the dyeing bath while adjusting to 5.0 to dye the polylactic acid fiber portion first, followed by 0.1 to 0.3% by weight of Na 2 S 2 O 4, 0.1 to 0.3% by weight of polyoxyethylene alkyl ester-based refiner, NH 4 Reduction and washing process treated with a cleaning solution containing water as 0.1 to 0.3% by weight of OH. After preparing a mixture of water as a two-bath dyeing process, the dyeing process after a polyoxyethylene alkyl ester type refiner 0.1 to 0.3% by weight of NH 4 OH 0.08~0.2 wt% and the balance of dyeing a coarse fiber portion after wool with acid dyes A post-treatment step of treating the solution at a pH of 8-9 at 60-65 ° C. for 15-30 minutes, mixing 0.1-0.3 wt% of the silicone softener with 0.03-0.08 wt% of CH 3 COOH and remainder after the post-treatment. Wool and polylactic acid, characterized in that it comprises a softening agent treatment process for processing 50 ~ 60 ℃, 15-30 minutes in a softening bath, infrared drying process for evaporating moisture at a low temperature by passing through the infrared dryer after the softening agent treatment process. A method of dyeing a twisted yarn of a fiber is provided.

상기 블랙컬러의 2욕염색법은 염료가 다량 투입되는 심색이므로 견뢰도를 고려해 폴리유산섬유를 먼저 염색한 후 양모섬유를 염색하는 2욕염색을 실시한다.단, 2욕염색을 하는 블랙컬러인 경우 폴리유산섬유를 염색한 후 Na2S2O4 0.1∼0.3중량%, 폴리옥시에틸렌알킬에스테르계 정련제 0.1∼0.3중량%, NH4OH 0.1~0.3중량% 잔부로서 물을 함유하는 세정액으로 약한 환원세정을 실시하고, 일반적인 양모염색방법과 같이 양모섬유를 염색하되 포름산을 첨가한다. 양모 염색 후에는 폴리옥시에틸렌알킬에스테르계 정련제 0.1∼0.3중량%와 약 알칼리성인 NH4OH 0.08∼0.2중량% 및 잔부로서 물을 함유하는 후처리액에 투입하여 50~60℃, 15~30분간 처리하고 적외선 건조기에 통과시켜 건조한다.Since the two-color dyeing method of the black color is a deep color into which a large amount of dye is added, the two-color dyeing is performed after dyeing the polylactic fiber in consideration of the color fastness and then dyeing the wool fiber. After dyeing the lactic fiber, mild reduction with a washing solution containing 0.1 to 0.3% by weight of Na 2 S 2 O 4 , 0.1 to 0.3% by weight of polyoxyethylene alkyl ester type refining agent and 0.1 to 0.3% by weight of NH 4 OH. The dyeing of the wool fibers as in the general wool dyeing method, but formic acid is added. After wool dyeing, it is added to a post-treatment solution containing 0.1 to 0.3% by weight of a polyoxyethylene alkyl ester-based refining agent, 0.08 to 0.2% by weight of slightly alkaline NH 4 OH, and the remainder of water at 50 to 60 ° C for 15 to 30 minutes. Process and dry by passing through an infrared dryer.

또한, 본 발명에서는 상기 염색사를 사용하여 제직, 염색 및 후처리를 하는데, 염색 과정에서 헝클어진 사를 다시 감아 정리하는 소프트 와인딩 공정을 거친 후, 제직을 거치게 된다.In the present invention, weaving, dyeing and post-treatment using the dyed yarn, after the soft winding process to rewind the wrapped yarn in the dyeing process, after the weaving.

제직조건은 대표적인 예로 다음과 같은 조건으로 할 수 있다. 성밀도 19D×4=76, 타입수 64본/인치. 성통폭 68인치, 생지폭 64인치, 가공폭 60인치, 중량 13.12(Oz/yd), 조직 2/2Twill의 조건으로 할 수 있다.Weaving conditions can be the following as a representative example. Density 19D × 4 = 76, number of types 64 units / inch. Pain width 68 inches, dough width 64 inches, processing width 60 inches, weight 13.12 (Oz / yd), tissue 2/2 Twill can be made.

제직된 원단은 모소→정련→전모→건열 세팅→디커타이징(습열세팅)→유연제 처리→상압 증열 공정을 거치면서 최종 제품으로 만들어진다. 모소(singeing)는 표 면의 잔털을 태워서 매끄러운 표면과 선명한 무늬를 나타내기 위한 공정이고, 정련은 제직시 호부 공정에서 부여된 호제를 제거하기 위하여 폴리옥시에틸렌알킬에스테르계 정련제 0.01∼0.03중량%, NH4OH 0.01∼0.03중량% 및 잔부로서 물을 함유하는 정련욕에 투입하여 pH 8~9에서 40~50℃, 20~30분간 처리 후 온수세 과정을 거친 후 100~110℃에서 30~50초간 건조한다. 전모(shearing)는 3단 나이프로 표면의 남은 잔털을 깎아내는 공정이고, 건열 세팅에서는 폴리유산섬유의 약한 내열성을 고려하여 120~130℃에서 30~50초간 실시하였다. 디커타이징(습열세팅)은 치수안정성과 촉감 개선을 위하여 100~110℃의 증기를 불어넣어 형태를 안정시키는 공정이다. 이상의 공정을 거친 후 부드러운 촉감을 위해 실리콘계 유연제 0.1∼0.3중량%를 함유한 수용액에 침지한 후 맹글로 짜서 100~110℃에서 30~50초간 건조한다. 다음으로 상압 증열 공정을 60~70℃에서 30~50초간 실시한다.Woven fabrics are made into the final product through the process of moss → refining → total hair → dry heat setting → decoating (humid heat setting) → softening treatment → atmospheric pressure heating process. Singeing is a process to burn the fine hairs of the surface to show a smooth surface and a clear pattern, and refining is 0.01 to 0.03% by weight of a polyoxyethylene alkyl ester-based refining agent, NH 4 OH 0.01 ~ 0.03% by weight and remainder is added to a scouring bath containing water, 40 ~ 50 ℃ for 20 ~ 30 minutes at pH 8 ~ 9, followed by hot water washing process, and then 30 ~ 50 at 100 ~ 110 ℃. Dry for seconds. Shearing is a process of cutting off the remaining hair on the surface with a three-stage knife, and in the dry heat setting, it was conducted for 30 to 50 seconds at 120 to 130 ° C. in consideration of the weak heat resistance of the polylactic acid fiber. Deketizing (wet heat setting) is a process to stabilize the shape by blowing steam at 100 ~ 110 ℃ to improve dimensional stability and feel. After the above process, for soft touch, it is immersed in an aqueous solution containing 0.1 to 0.3% by weight of a silicone softener, and squeezed with mangle and dried at 100 to 110 ° C. for 30 to 50 seconds. Next, an atmospheric pressure heating process is performed at 60-70 degreeC for 30-50 seconds.

상기 일련의 공정에 의해 생분해성 섬유인 폴리유산섬유와 양모와의 고급 혼방소재 제품이 제조된다.By the above series of processes, a high quality blend material product of polylactic acid fiber and wool, which is a biodegradable fiber, is manufactured.

그러므로 본 발명에 의하면, 기존의 양모와 폴리에스테르 혼방제품과 비슷한 견뢰도 등 물성을 가지면서도 경량감, 깊이있는 색상 및 생분해성특성을 가진 폴리유산섬유의 특성을 살려 환경친화적인 양모와 폴리유산섬유의 합연사제품을 제공할 수 있다.Therefore, according to the present invention, it is a combination of environmentally friendly wool and polylactic acid fiber by utilizing the properties of polylactic acid fiber having lightness, depth of color and biodegradable properties while having properties such as fastness similar to existing wool and polyester blend products. Can provide twisted products.

이하 다음의 실시 예에서는 본 발명의 양모와 폴리유산 합연사제품의 처리방법에 대한 비한정적인 예시를 하고 있다.The following examples are given as non-limiting examples of the method for treating wool and polylactic acid blended products of the present invention.

[실시예 1]Example 1

양모방적사(50'S/1(모번수))와 폴리유산방적사(30'S/1(면번수))각각을 50:50의 비율로 하여 합사기는 이태리의 FADIS기기, 연사기는 일본제 MURATA기기를 사용하여 연수 S 680, 8500 r.p.m.에서 합연하여 양모/폴리유산 합연사 50'S/2(모번수)를 제조하였으며, 양모와 폴리유산 합연사의 1욕 염색 공정을 다음 표1에 나타내었다. 이 공정은 블랙 컬러를 제외한 모든 컬러 제품에 해당한다.50:50 wool yarn (50'S / 1) and polylactic acid yarn (30'S / 1) are used at the ratio of 50:50 for the plywood for Italian FADIS and for the use of Japanese MURATA equipment. Wool / polylactic acid-poly-synthetic yarn 50'S / 2 (number of times) was prepared by combining at S 680 and 8500 rpm. This process applies to all color products except black.

전처리(정련)Pretreatment (refining) 염색조제 투입Dye preparation 염료투입Dye injection 염색dyeing 후처리After treatment 유연제Softener 처리 process IR건조IR drying 60℃ 20min60 ℃ 20min 50℃ 50 ℃ 50℃ 50 ℃ 110℃ 40min110 ℃ 40min 60℃ 20min60 ℃ 20min 50℃ 20min50 ℃ 20min 폴리옥시에틸렌알킬에스테르계 정련제 (Sunmorl MS-40) 0.1중량% 물 99.99중량% (pH중성) Polyoxyethylene Alkyl Ester Refining Agent (Sunmorl MS-40) 0.1% by weight Water 99.99% by weight (pH neutral) CH3COOH 1.0% o.w.f. CH3COONa 1.0% o.w.f. 방향족 술폰산계 균염제 (Teberol MKS) 0.5% o.w.f. 술포네이트계 분산제 (Doregal ASA) 0.5% o.w.f. 양모보호제(Hexapol WA) 4.0% o.w.f. 기포방지제(Teberol ELNP) 0.5% o.w.f. 잔부 : 물CH 3 COOH 1.0% owf CH 3 COONa 1.0% owf Aromatic sulfonic acid leveling agent (Teberol MKS) 0.5% owf sulfonate type dispersant (Doregal ASA) 0.5% owf wool protective agent (Hexapol WA) 4.0% owf antifoaming agent (Teberol ELNP) 0.5 % owf balance: water 분산염료 산성염료 동시투입 Disperse Dye Acid Dye pH 4.5 pH 4.5 NH4OH 0.1중량% 폴리옥시에틸렌알킬에스테르계 정련제 (Sunmorl MS-40) 0.1중량% 물 99.80중량% (pH8.5) NH 4 OH 0.1 wt% Polyoxyethylene Alkyl Ester Refining Agent (Sunmorl MS-40) 0.1 wt% Water 99.80 wt% (pH8.5) CH3COOH 0.05중량% 실리콘계유연제 0.2중량% 물 99.75중량% CH 3 COOH 0.05 wt% Silicone Softener 0.2 wt% Water 99.75 wt%

표 1의 공정 적용 시 beige, light beige, wine의 세 가지 색상을 얻기 위해 다음 표 2의 염료 및 농도로 실시하였다.In order to obtain the three colors of beige, light beige, wine when the process of Table 1 was applied to the dye and concentration of the following Table 2.

염료명  Dye name 색상별 농도(% o.w.f.)Density by Color (% o.w.f.) 비고  Remarks 실시예1조건Example 1 Conditions beigebeige light beigelight beige winewine Lumacel Yellow H-EFLumacel Yellow H-EF 0.2000.200 0.0500.050 0.0400.040 분산염료Disperse Dyes Lumacel Scarlet H-EFLumacel Scarlet H-EF 0.0550.055 -- 2.5002.500 분산염료Disperse Dyes Lumacel Navy H-EFLumacel Navy H-EF 0.0450.045 0.0150.015 1.2001.200 분산염료Disperse Dyes Lanaset Yellow 2RLanaset Yellow 2R 0.0600.060 -- 0.2500.250 산성염료Acid dyes Lanaset Red GLanaset Red G 0.0150.015 0.0050.005 0.2500.250 산성염료Acid dyes Lanaset Grey GLanaset Gray Gray -- 0.0050.005 -- 산성염료Acid dyes

[실시예 2]Example 2

상기 실시예 1과 동일한 양모와 폴리유산 합연사를 사용하여 블랙컬러염색을 위해 2욕염색 공정을 다음 표 3에 나타내었다. 이 공정은 다량의 염료가 투입되므로 견뢰도에 주의가 필요한 블랙 컬러의 경우에 적용하며 폴리유산섬유를 먼저 염색한 후 양모를 염색하였다.Using the same wool and polylactic acid twisted yarn as in Example 1, a two-bath dyeing process for black color dyeing is shown in Table 3 below. This process is applied to the case of black color that requires attention to fastness because a large amount of dye is added, and dyed the polylactic fiber first and then the wool.

전처리(정련)Pretreatment (refining) 염색조제 투입Dye preparation 염료dyes 투입input 폴리유산섬유염색Polylactic acid fiber dyeing 환원세정Reduction Cleaning 양모 염색Wool dyed 후처리After treatment 유연제처리Softener Treatment 60℃ 20min60 ℃ 20min 50℃ 50 ℃ 50℃ 50 ℃ 110℃ 40min110 ℃ 40min 60℃ 20min60 ℃ 20min 90℃ 70min 산성염료90 ℃ 70min Acid Dye 60℃ 20min60 ℃ 20min 50℃ 20min50 ℃ 20min 폴리옥시에틸렌알킬에스테르계 정련제 (Sunmorl MS-40) 0.01중량% 물 99.99중량% (pH중성)Polyoxyethylene Alkyl Ester Refining Agent (Sunmorl MS-40) 0.01% by weight of water 99.99% by weight (pH neutral) CH3COOH 1.0% o.w.f. CH3COONa 1.0% o.w.f. 술포네이트계분산제 (Doregal ASA) 0.5% o.w.f. 양모보호제 (Hexapol WA) 4.0% o.w.f. 기포방지제 (Teberol ELNP) 0.5% o.w.f. 잔부: 물CH 3 COOH 1.0% owf CH 3 COONa 1.0% owf Sulfonate Dispersant (Doregal ASA) 0.5% owf Wool Protector (Hexapol WA) 4.0% owf Antifoam (Teberol ELNP) 0.5% owf Residue: Water 분산 염료 Disperse dyes pH 4.5 pH 4.5 하이드로설파이트 (Na2S2O4) 0.1중량% NH4OH 0.1중량% 정련제 (SunmorlMS-40) 0.1중량% 물99.70중량% (pH8.5) Hydrosulfite (Na 2 S 2 O 4) 0.1 wt% NH 4 OH 0.1 wt% Refiner (SunmorlMS-40) 0.1 wt% Water 99.70 wt% (pH8.5) CH3COOH 1.0% o.w.f. 방향족 술폰산계 균염제 (Teberol MKS) 0.3% o.w.f. 양모보호제 (Hexapol WA) 2.0% o.w.f. 기포방지제 (Teberol ELNP) 0.5% o.w.f. HCOOH 2.0% o.w.f. 잔부: 물CH 3 COOH 1.0% owf Aromatic sulfonic acid leveling agent (Teberol MKS) 0.3% owf Wool protection agent (Hexapol WA) 2.0% owf Antifoaming agent (Teberol ELNP) 0.5% owf HCOOH 2.0% owf balance: water NH4OH 0.1중량% 폴리옥시에틸렌알킬에스테르계 정련제 (SunmorlMS-40) 0.1중량% 물99.80중량% (pH8.5) NH 4 OH 0.1 wt% Polyoxyethylene Alkyl Ester Refining Agent (SunmorlMS-40) 0.1 wt% Water 99.80 wt% (pH8.5) CH3COOH 0.05중량% 실리콘계유연제 (Rayolan FRS) 0.2중량% 물99.75중량% CH 3 COOH 0.05 wt% Silicone Softener (Rayolan FRS) 0.2 wt% Water 99.75 wt%

표 3의 공정 적용 시 다음 표 4의 염료 및 농도로 실시하였다.When the process of Table 3 was applied to the dye and the concentration of the following Table 4.

염료명Dye name 색상별 농도(% o.w.f.)Density by Color (% o.w.f.) 비고Remarks Lumacron Black RD-3GMLumacron Black RD-3GM 4.0004.000 분산염료Disperse Dyes Diamond Black PVDiamond Black PV 0.7500.750 산성염료Acid dyes

[실시예 3]Example 3

실시예 1의 beige, light beige, wine 컬러의 염색사를 FAST제직기로 체크무늬의 직물을 제조하였다. 성밀도19D×4=76, 타입수64본/인치, 성통폭68인치, 생지폭64인치, 가공폭60인치, 중량(Oz/yd)13.12, 조직2/2Twill조건으로 하여 RPM420,효율82%, 사절수-경사 2.0 위사 0.6으로 제직한 후 실시하는 후가공 공정을 다음 표 5에 나타내었다. The dyeing yarn of beige, light beige, and wine colors of Example 1 was manufactured with a checkered fabric with a FAST weaving machine. Density 19D × 4 = 76, Number of types 64 units / inch, Pain width 68 inches, Raw paper width 64 inches, Processing width 60 inches, Weight (Oz / yd) 13.12, Structure 2/2 Twill RPM420, Efficiency 82% Table 4 shows the post-treatment process performed after weaving with a thread cutting-tilt 2.0 weft of 0.6.

정련Refining 온수세Hot water tax 건조dry 전모Total 건열세팅Dry heat setting 디커타이징Decatering (습열세팅)(Heat setting) 유연제 처리Softener Treatment (pad→dry)(pad → dry) 상압증열Atmospheric pressure 40℃ 30min40 ℃ 30min 40℃ 30min40 ℃ 30min 100℃ 30sec100 ℃ 30sec 130℃ 30sec130 ℃ 30sec 100℃ 100 ℃ 100℃ 30sec100 ℃ 30sec 60℃ 30min60 ℃ 30min NH4OH 0.01중량% 폴리옥시에틸렌알킬에스테르계 정련제 (Sunmorl MS-40) 0.01중량% 물99.98중량% (pH8.5)NH 4 OH 0.01 wt% Polyoxyethylene Alkyl Ester Refining Agent (Sunmorl MS-40) 0.01 wt% Water 99.98 wt% (pH8.5) 실리콘계유연제 (Rayolan FRS) 0.2중량% 물99.80중량% Silicone Softener (Rayolan FRS) 0.2% by weight Water 99.80% by weight

[실시예 4]Example 4

실시예 2의 black컬러의 염색사를 이용하여 실시예 3과 동일하게 직물을 제조하였다.Fabrics were prepared in the same manner as in Example 3, using the dyed yarn of the black color of Example 2.

[비교예 1]Comparative Example 1

실시예 1의 폴리유산섬유대신에 폴리에스테르섬유를 사용하여 양모/폴리에스테르 합연사를 실시예 1과 동일한 염료 및 기타 가공 조건을 거쳐 처리하였다. Wool / polyester twisted yarn was treated using the same dye and other processing conditions as in Example 1 using polyester fibers instead of the polylactic acid fibers of Example 1.

[비교예 2]Comparative Example 2

실시예 2의 폴리유산섬유대신에 폴리에스테르섬유를 사용하여 양모/폴리에스테르 합연사를 실시예 2와 동일한 염료 및 기타 가공 조건을 거쳐 처리하였다. Using polyester fibers instead of the polylactic acid fibers of Example 2, wool / polyester twisted yarns were treated via the same dyes and other processing conditions as in Example 2.

[비교예 3]Comparative Example 3

실시예 3의 폴리유산섬유대신에 폴리에스테르섬유를 사용하여 양모/폴리에스테르 합연사를 제조하고 이를 이용하여 직물을 제조하여 실시예 3과 동일한 염료 및 기타 가공 조건을 거쳐 처리하였다. Wool / polyester twisted yarn was prepared using polyester fibers instead of the polylactic acid fibers of Example 3, and fabrics were prepared using the same dyes and other processing conditions as in Example 3.

[비교예 4][Comparative Example 4]

실시예 4의 폴리유산섬유대신에 폴리에스테르섬유를 사용하여 양모/폴리에스테르 합연사를 제조하고 이를 이용하여 직물을 제조하여 실시예 4와 동일한 염료 및 기타 가공 조건을 거쳐 처리하였다. Instead of the polylactic acid fiber of Example 4, using a polyester fiber to prepare a wool / polyester twisted yarn and to prepare a fabric by using the same dye and other processing conditions as in Example 4.

상기 실시예 1 내지 실시예 2 및 비교예 1 내지 비교예 2의 제품의 기본 물성을 시험하여 다음 표 6과 같은 결과를 얻었다. The basic physical properties of the products of Examples 1 to 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 2 were tested to obtain results as shown in Table 6 below.

시험항목  Test Items 시험결과Test result 시험방법  Test Methods beigebeige light beigelight beige winewine blackblack 실시예1Example 1 비교예1Comparative Example 1 실시예1Example 1 비교예1Comparative Example 1 실시예1Example 1 비교예1Comparative Example 1 실시예2Example 2 비교예2Comparative Example 2 세탁견뢰도(급) 나일론오염Wash fastness (grade) nylon pollution 4~54 to 5 4~54 to 5 4~54 to 5 4~54 to 5 44 4~54 to 5 3~43 to 4 44 KSKISO105C06A1SKSKISO105C06A1S 일광견뢰도(급) 변퇴색Daylight fastness (grade) fading 44 44 44 44 44 44 33 33 KSKISO105 B02KSKISO105 B02 마찰견뢰도(급) 오염Friction fastness (grade) pollution 55 55 55 55 4~54 to 5 4~54 to 5 4~54 to 5 4~54 to 5 KSK0650 건조마찰KSK0650 Dry Friction 땀견뢰도(급) 나일론오염Sweat fastness (grade) Nylon contamination 44 44 44 44 3~43 to 4 44 44 4~54 to 5 KSKISO105E04 산성땀KSKISO105E04 Acid Sweat

상기 실시예 3~4 및 비교예 3~4의 제품의 기본 물성을 시험하여 다음 표 7과 같은 결과를 얻었다. The basic physical properties of the products of Examples 3 to 4 and Comparative Examples 3 to 4 were tested to obtain results as shown in Table 7 below.

시험항목  Test Items 시험결과Test result 시험방법  Test Methods 체크무늬직물Checkered fabric 블랙컬러직물Black color fabric 실시예3Example 3 비교예3Comparative Example 3 실시예4Example 4 비교예4Comparative Example 4 세탁견뢰도(급) 나일론오염Wash fastness (grade) nylon pollution 44 4~54 to 5 3~43 to 4 44 KSKISO105C06A1SKSKISO105C06A1S 일광견뢰도(급) 변퇴색Daylight fastness (grade) fading 44 44 33 33 KSKISO105 B02KSKISO105 B02 마찰견뢰도(급) 오염Friction fastness (grade) pollution 4~54 to 5 4~54 to 5 4~54 to 5 4~54 to 5 KSK0650KSK0650 땀견뢰도(급) 나일론오염Sweat fastness (grade) Nylon contamination 3~43 to 4 44 44 4~54 to 5 KSKISO105E04KSKISO105E04 인장강도(N) Tensile strength (N) 경사 544.3Slope 544.3 경사 560.4 Tilt 560.4 경사 554.3Slope 554.3 경사 567.2Tilt 567.2 KSK0520그래브법 KSK0520 Grab Method 위사 531.6Weft 531.6 위사 524.5Weft 524.5 위사 504.1Weft 504.1 위사 514.2Weft 514.2 인열강도(N) Tear strength (N) 경사 16.6Slope 16.6 경사 16.3Slope 16.3 경사 16.1Slope 16.1 경사 16.2Slope 16.2 KSK0535펜듈럼법 KSK0535 Pendulum Method 위사 14.1Weft 14.1 위사 14.0Weft 14.0 위사 14.1Weft 14.1 위사 14.0Weft 14.0 치수변화율(%) Dimensional rate of change (%) 경사 -2.0Tilt -2.0 경사 -2.1Tilt -2.1 경사 -2.3Slope -2.3 경사 -2.3Slope -2.3 AATCC135 AATCC135 위사 -2.4Weft -2.4 위사 -2.4Weft -2.4 위사 -2.5Weft -2.5 위사 -2.4Weft -2.4

상기 표 6과 표 7의 결과를 볼 때, 폴리유산섬유와 양모의 합연사 및 직물은 전체적으로 양모/폴리에스테르 합연사의 경우에 비해 같거나 0.5등급 정도 낮지만 비슷한 수준이었으며, 가장 낮은 등급도 일반적 제품의 합격선인 3∼4급 이상으로 나타나 생산에 적합함을 알 수 있었다. 표 6과 표 7의 견뢰도 결과를 비교하면, 염색사 시험시 가장 낮은 결과가 직물의 결과로 나타남을 알 수 있었으며, 일광견뢰도는 공정의 수세 등 후처리의 영향보다 염료 구조 자체의 특성이 영향을 끼치므로 결과가 동일하게 나타났다.In the results of Table 6 and Table 7, the polylactic fiber and wool composite yarns and fabrics were the same or about 0.5 grades lower than that of wool / polyester composite yarns, but they were similar, and the lowest grade was also common. It appeared that it is more than 3-4 grade which is the acceptance line of product, and it shows that it is suitable for production. Comparing the results of the fastness of Table 6 and Table 7, it can be seen that the lowest result is the result of the fabric during the dye yarn test, and the daylight fastness is more affected by the characteristics of the dye structure itself than the effects of post-treatment such as water washing. The results were the same.

Claims (3)

양모방적사와 폴리유산섬유방적사를 30:70~70:30의 비율로 공급하여 연수 S 650~700, 8000~9000 r.p.m.에서 합연하는 합연공정,Combined process of supplying wool spun yarn and polylactic acid fiber spun yarn in the ratio of 30: 70 ~ 70: 30 and combining them in soft water S 650 ~ 700, 8000 ~ 9000 r.p.m., 상기 제조된 합연사를 폴리옥시에틸렌알킬에스테르계 정련제 0.1∼0.3중량% 및 잔부로 물을 함유하는 중성욕에서 60~70℃, 10~30분간 처리하는 정련공정,A refining process of treating the prepared twisted yarn is 60 to 70 ℃, 10 to 30 minutes in a neutral bath containing 0.1 to 0.3% by weight of polyoxyethylene alkyl ester-based refining agent and the balance as water, 상기 정련공정 후 방향족술폰산계 균염제 0.3∼0.7 o.w.f., 술포네이트계 분산제 0.3∼0.7 o.w.f., CH3COOH 0.8∼1.5% o.w.f., CH3COONa 0.8∼1.5% o.w.f., 에톡실화지방산과 폴리히드릭알코올을 함유하는 양모보호제 3.0∼5.0% o.w.f., 기포방지제 0.3∼0.7 o.w.f. 및 잔부로 물을 함유하는 염색욕을 준비하고 pH 4.5∼5.0로 조절하면서 상기 염색욕에 폴리유산섬유염색용 분산염료와 양모염색용 산성염료를 45~55℃에서 투입하여 용해한 후, 100 ~ 110℃에서 40~50분간 상기 합연사를 동시에 염색하는 1욕염색 공정,After the refining process, aromatic sulfonic acid leveling agent 0.3 to 0.7 owf, sulfonate dispersant 0.3 to 0.7 owf, CH 3 COOH 0.8 to 1.5% owf, CH 3 COONa 0.8 to 1.5% owf, ethoxylated fatty acid and polyhydric alcohol Prepare a dyeing bath containing 3.0 ~ 5.0% owf of wool protecting agent, 0.3 ~ 0.7 owf of anti-foaming agent, and balance with water and adjust the pH to 4.5-5.0 while dispersing dye for polylactic acid fiber dyeing and acid for wool dyeing 1 bath dyeing step of dyeing the conjugated yarn at the same time 40 to 50 minutes at 100 ~ 110 ℃ after dissolving the dye at 45 ~ 55 ℃ 상기 염색공정 후 폴리옥시에틸렌알킬에스테르계 정련제 0.1∼0.3중량%와 NH4OH 0.08∼0.2중량% 및 잔부로서 물을 혼합하여 준비한 후처리액에서 pH 8~9에서 60~65℃, 15~30분간 처리하는 후처리 공정, After the dyeing step, in the post-treatment solution prepared by mixing 0.1 to 0.3% by weight of polyoxyethylene alkyl ester-based refining agent, 0.08 to 0.2% by weight of NH 4 OH, and the balance, water at 60 to 65 ° C and 15 to 30 at pH 8-9. Post-treatment process, 상기 후처리 공정 후 실리콘계 유연제 0.1∼0.3중량%와 CH3COOH 0.03∼0.08중량% 및 잔부로서 물을 혼합한 유연제욕에 투입하여 50~60℃, 15~30분간 처리하는 유연제 처리공정,After the post-treatment step, a softener treatment step of treating the softener bath with 0.1 to 0.3% by weight of silicon-based softener, 0.03 to 0.08% by weight of CH 3 COOH and remainder, and then treating the solution for 50 to 60 ° C. for 15 to 30 minutes; 상기 유연제 처리공정 후 적외선 건조기에 통과시켜 저온에서 수분을 증발시키는 적외선 건조 공정으로 이루어지는 것을 특징으로 하는 양모와 폴리유산섬유의 합연사의 염색방법.The dyeing method of the twisted yarn of the wool and the polylactic acid fiber, characterized in that the infrared drying step after passing through the softening agent treatment step to pass through the infrared dryer to evaporate moisture at a low temperature. 양모방적사와 폴리유산섬유방적사를 30:70~70:30의 비율로 공급하여 연수 S 650~700, 8000~9000 r.p.m.에서 합연하는 합연공정,Combined process of supplying wool spun yarn and polylactic acid fiber spun yarn in the ratio of 30: 70 ~ 70: 30 and combining them in soft water S 650 ~ 700, 8000 ~ 9000 r.p.m., 상기 제조된 합연사를 폴리옥시에틸렌알킬에스테르계 정련제 0.1∼0.3중량% 및 잔부로 물을 함유하는 중성욕에서 60~70℃, 10~30분간 처리하는 정련공정,A refining process of treating the prepared twisted yarn is 60 to 70 ℃, 10 to 30 minutes in a neutral bath containing 0.1 to 0.3% by weight of polyoxyethylene alkyl ester-based refining agent and the balance as water, 상기 정련공정 후 술포네이트계 분산제 0.3∼0.7 o.w.f., CH3COOH 0.8∼1.5% o.w.f., CH3COONa 0.8∼1.5% o.w.f., 에톡실화지방산과 폴리히드릭알코올을 함유하는 양모보호제 3.0∼5.0% o.w.f., 기포방지제 0.3∼0.7 o.w.f. 및 잔부로 물을 함유하는 염색욕을 준비하고 pH 4.5∼5.0로 조절하면서 상기 염색욕에 분산염료를 투입하여 폴리유산섬유부분을 먼저 염색한 후, Na2S2O4 0.1∼0.3중량%, 폴리옥시에틸렌알킬에스테르계 정련제 0.1∼0.3중량%, NH4OH 0.1~0.3중량% 및 잔부로서 물을 함유하는 세정액으로 처리하는 환원세정공정을 거친 후 산성염료로 양모섬유부분을 염색하는 2욕 염색 공정,0.3-0.7 owf of sulfonate-based dispersant after the refining process, 0.8-1.5% owf of CH 3 COOH, 0.8-1.5% owf of CH 3 COONa, wool protective agent containing ethoxylated fatty acid and polyhydric alcohol 3.0-5.0% owf, Prepare a dyeing bath containing 0.3 to 0.7 owf and an anti-foaming water, and adjust the pH to 4.5 to 5.0, disperse the dye in the dyeing bath, and dye the polylactic acid fiber portion first, and then Na 2 S 2 O 4 0.1 to 0.3% by weight, 0.1 to 0.3% by weight of polyoxyethylene alkyl ester-based refining agent, 0.1 to 0.3% by weight of NH 4 OH, and the remainder after washing with a washing solution containing water as a part of wool fiber with acid dye Bath dyeing process to dye cloth, 상기 염색공정 후 폴리옥시에틸렌알킬에스테르계 정련제 0.1∼0.3중량%와 NH4OH 0.08∼0.2중량% 및 잔부로서 물을 혼합하여 준비한 후처리액에서 pH 8~9에서 60~65℃, 15~30분간 처리하는 후처리 공정, After the dyeing step, in the post-treatment solution prepared by mixing 0.1 to 0.3% by weight of polyoxyethylene alkyl ester-based refining agent, 0.08 to 0.2% by weight of NH 4 OH, and the balance, water at 60 to 65 ° C and 15 to 30 at pH 8-9. Post-treatment process, 상기 후처리 공정 후 실리콘계 유연제 0.1∼0.3중량%와 CH3COOH 0.03∼0.08중량% 및 잔부로서 물을 혼합한 유연제욕에 투입하여 50~60℃, 15~30분간 처리하는 유연제 처리공정,After the post-treatment step, a softener treatment step of treating the softener bath with 0.1 to 0.3% by weight of silicon-based softener, 0.03 to 0.08% by weight of CH 3 COOH and remainder, and then treating the solution for 50 to 60 ° C. for 15 to 30 minutes; 상기 유연제 처리공정 후 적외선 건조기에 통과시켜 저온에서 수분을 증발시키는 적외선 건조 공정으로 이루어지는 것을 특징으로 하는 양모와 폴리유산섬유의 합연사의 염색방법.The dyeing method of the twisted yarn of the wool and the polylactic acid fiber, characterized in that the infrared drying step after passing through the softening agent treatment step to pass through the infrared dryer to evaporate moisture at a low temperature. 제 1항 또는 제 2항 기재의 상기 적외선 건조 공정이 완료된 양모와 폴리유산섬유의 합연염색사를 소프트 와인딩한 후 제직하는 공정,The process of weaving after soft winding the combined dyeing yarns of wool and polylactic acid fibers of the infrared drying process according to claim 1 or 2, 상기 제직된 원단을 모소한 다음 폴리옥시에틸렌알킬에스테르계 정련제 0.01∼0.03중량%, NH4OH 0.01∼0.03중량% 및 잔부로 물을 함유하는 정련욕에 투입하여 pH 8~9에서 40~50℃, 20~30분간 처리 후 온수세 과정을 거친 후,After the woven fabric is woven, it is added to a refining bath containing 0.01 to 0.03% by weight of a polyoxyethylene alkyl ester-based refining agent, 0.01 to 0.03% by weight of NH 4 OH, and the remainder to 40 to 50 ° C. at a pH of 8 to 9 After 20-30 minutes of treatment, 100~110℃에서 30~50초간 건조하고, 전모를 거친 후, 120~130℃에서 30~50초간 건열세팅한 다음, 100~110℃로 디커타이징하고, 실리콘계 유연제 0.1∼0.3중량%를 함유한 수용액에 침지한 후 맹글로 짜서 100~110℃에서 30~50초간 건조하고, 상압 증열 공정을 60~70℃에서 30~50초간 실시하는 일련의 공정으로 구성되는 양모와 폴리유산섬유의 합연직물의 염색방법.Dry at 100-110 ° C for 30-50 seconds, dry, heat set at 120-130 ° C for 30-50 seconds, de-catalyze at 100-110 ° C, and contain 0.1-0.3% by weight of silicone softener Soaked in an aqueous solution, squeezed with mangle, dried for 30 to 50 seconds at 100 to 110 ° C, and a jointed fabric of wool and polylactic acid fiber, consisting of a series of processes for performing an atmospheric pressure heating process at 60 to 70 ° C for 30 to 50 seconds Method of dyeing.
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KR101259612B1 (en) * 2012-08-09 2013-04-30 신풍섬유(주) Textile weaving method for hospital clothes using poly lactic acid fiber and the woven fabrics thereof
CN109577008A (en) * 2018-11-12 2019-04-05 山东华晨彩装科技有限公司 A kind of high-efficiency refining agent and its preparation method and application for pure cotton fabric continuously or intermittently boiling
CN110699983A (en) * 2019-10-29 2020-01-17 太仓宝霓实业有限公司 Reactive dye dyeing promoter composition and preparation method thereof
KR20240053184A (en) 2022-10-17 2024-04-24 추광엽 Eco―Friendly Enzyme―Treatment Of Modal―PLA Fabrics
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EP0713940B1 (en) * 1994-11-08 2002-04-24 Ciba SC Holding AG Process for dying fibrous materials containing wool
JPH09157977A (en) * 1995-12-15 1997-06-17 Asahi Chem Ind Co Ltd Composite yarn comprising polyester fiber and wool
JP2002227055A (en) 2001-01-30 2002-08-14 Toray Ind Inc Black dyed fiber structure comprising polylactic acid fiber and wool
KR100671066B1 (en) 2006-03-30 2007-01-17 주식회사영신물산 Blended yarn and preparation thereof and one-bath dyeing

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR101259612B1 (en) * 2012-08-09 2013-04-30 신풍섬유(주) Textile weaving method for hospital clothes using poly lactic acid fiber and the woven fabrics thereof
CN109577008A (en) * 2018-11-12 2019-04-05 山东华晨彩装科技有限公司 A kind of high-efficiency refining agent and its preparation method and application for pure cotton fabric continuously or intermittently boiling
CN110699983A (en) * 2019-10-29 2020-01-17 太仓宝霓实业有限公司 Reactive dye dyeing promoter composition and preparation method thereof
CN110699983B (en) * 2019-10-29 2022-01-04 太仓宝霓实业有限公司 Reactive dye dyeing promoter composition and preparation method thereof
KR20240053184A (en) 2022-10-17 2024-04-24 추광엽 Eco―Friendly Enzyme―Treatment Of Modal―PLA Fabrics
KR102672830B1 (en) * 2023-06-16 2024-06-04 이원일 Manufacturing method of eco-friendly fabric with excellent biodegradability

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