CN114703683A - Bio-based knitted fabric and dyeing and finishing process thereof - Google Patents
Bio-based knitted fabric and dyeing and finishing process thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN114703683A CN114703683A CN202210301077.7A CN202210301077A CN114703683A CN 114703683 A CN114703683 A CN 114703683A CN 202210301077 A CN202210301077 A CN 202210301077A CN 114703683 A CN114703683 A CN 114703683A
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- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 133
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 69
- 238000007730 finishing process Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 25
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 88
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 81
- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 29
- 239000000980 acid dye Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 24
- 239000012752 auxiliary agent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- 238000009958 sewing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 5
- QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acetic acid Chemical compound CC(O)=O QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 22
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 claims description 17
- 238000007493 shaping process Methods 0.000 claims description 17
- 239000002270 dispersing agent Substances 0.000 claims description 16
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 15
- CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L Sodium Carbonate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]C([O-])=O CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 14
- 238000001816 cooling Methods 0.000 claims description 14
- 229960000583 acetic acid Drugs 0.000 claims description 11
- 239000012362 glacial acetic acid Substances 0.000 claims description 11
- SJEYSFABYSGQBG-UHFFFAOYSA-M Patent blue Chemical compound [Na+].C1=CC(N(CC)CC)=CC=C1C(C=1C(=CC(=CC=1)S([O-])(=O)=O)S([O-])(=O)=O)=C1C=CC(=[N+](CC)CC)C=C1 SJEYSFABYSGQBG-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 10
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 10
- 229920002334 Spandex Polymers 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000004759 spandex Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- BFNBIHQBYMNNAN-UHFFFAOYSA-N ammonium sulfate Chemical compound N.N.OS(O)(=O)=O BFNBIHQBYMNNAN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- 229910052921 ammonium sulfate Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 8
- 235000011130 ammonium sulphate Nutrition 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000008234 soft water Substances 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000004902 Softening Agent Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000005238 degreasing Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 229910000029 sodium carbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 6
- 235000017550 sodium carbonate Nutrition 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000004321 preservation Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000004952 Polyamide Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000013527 degreasing agent Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000005237 degreasing agent Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 229920002647 polyamide Polymers 0.000 claims description 4
- 230000002378 acidificating effect Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000004383 yellowing Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 abstract description 11
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 abstract description 8
- 238000010521 absorption reaction Methods 0.000 abstract description 6
- 210000004243 sweat Anatomy 0.000 abstract description 5
- 238000009423 ventilation Methods 0.000 abstract description 3
- 239000004677 Nylon Substances 0.000 description 6
- 229920001778 nylon Polymers 0.000 description 6
- 235000017166 Bambusa arundinacea Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- 235000017491 Bambusa tulda Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- 241001330002 Bambuseae Species 0.000 description 4
- 235000015334 Phyllostachys viridis Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- 239000011425 bamboo Substances 0.000 description 4
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 4
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 description 4
- 238000007599 discharging Methods 0.000 description 3
- WNLRTRBMVRJNCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N adipic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCC(O)=O WNLRTRBMVRJNCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 238000002474 experimental method Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000011084 recovery Methods 0.000 description 2
- CXMXRPHRNRROMY-UHFFFAOYSA-N sebacic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCCCCCC(O)=O CXMXRPHRNRROMY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 description 2
- OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Carbon Chemical compound [C] OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000001361 adipic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000011037 adipic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000002411 adverse Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229910052799 carbon Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000003153 chemical reaction reagent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000005611 electricity Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000007613 environmental effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000003631 expected effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000014509 gene expression Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000009916 joint effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000012986 modification Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 description 1
- KJOMYNHMBRNCNY-UHFFFAOYSA-N pentane-1,1-diamine Chemical compound CCCCC(N)N KJOMYNHMBRNCNY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000035699 permeability Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000003208 petroleum Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002861 polymer material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000003068 static effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000009736 wetting Methods 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
- D06P3/8204—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06L—DRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
- D06L1/00—Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods
- D06L1/12—Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods using aqueous solvents
- D06L1/16—Multi-step processes
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M13/10—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing oxygen
- D06M13/184—Carboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
- D06M13/188—Monocarboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/0032—Determining dye recipes and dyeing parameters; Colour matching or monitoring
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/39—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using acid dyes
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
- D06P1/62—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders using compositions containing low-molecular-weight organic compounds with sulfate, sulfonate, sulfenic or sulfinic groups
- D06P1/621—Compounds without nitrogen
- D06P1/627—Sulfates
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
- D06P5/02—After-treatment
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/30—Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M2101/34—Polyamides
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/30—Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M2101/38—Polyurethanes
Abstract
The invention discloses a bio-based knitted fabric and a dyeing and finishing process thereof, wherein the dyeing and finishing process comprises the following steps: carrying out at least five washing treatments on the grey cloth, wherein the temperature of the second washing is higher than that of the first washing, and the temperature from the third washing to the last washing is gradually reduced; pre-setting the grey cloth at 190-195 deg.c at 27-29 m/min; sewing; cloth washing water is fed at the temperature of 38-42 ℃ to wet the grey cloth, acid dye is added, then dyeing auxiliary agent is added, the temperature is raised to 88-97 ℃ at the speed of 0.9-1.1 ℃/min, and then the temperature is lowered; drying the cloth; and (3) carrying out setting treatment on the grey cloth after the dry cloth treatment, wherein the setting temperature is 164-168 ℃, and the speed is 25-27 m/min. The dyeing and finishing process of the bio-based knitted fabric can ensure that the bio-based knitted fabric after dyeing and finishing treatment has soft and glutinous hand feeling and cotton appearance, and achieves the effects of moisture absorption, sweat releasing and ventilation.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the field of fabric treatment, in particular to a bio-based knitted fabric and a dyeing and finishing process thereof.
Background
The bio-based knitted fabric is a fabric comprising bio-based yarns. The bio-based yarn is, for example, nylon PA56, nylon PA56 can be prepared by mixing, spinning or pure spinning and twisting a high polymer material polymerized from bio-based pentanediamine and petroleum-based adipic acid or bio-based sebacic acid and other fiber raw materials, and the mass percentage of the bio-based yarn can exceed 47%. The bio-based knitted fabric has the characteristics of low carbon, environmental protection and sustainability, has the characteristics of moisture absorption and sweat releasing, has a special cotton feeling, and is softer and more glutinous in hand feeling.
However, the prior dyeing and finishing process for the grey fabric of the bio-based knitted fabric can cause adverse effects on the advantages of softness, fullness, skin moistening, moisture absorption, sweat releasing, air permeability and the like of the bio-based knitted fabric.
Therefore, how to provide a dyeing and finishing process capable of effectively maintaining the advantages of the bio-based knitted fabric becomes a technical problem to be solved in the field.
Disclosure of Invention
One object of the present invention is to provide a new technical solution for a dyeing and finishing process of a bio-based knitted fabric, which can effectively maintain the advantages of the bio-based knitted fabric.
According to a first aspect of the invention, a dyeing and finishing process for a bio-based knitted fabric is provided.
The dyeing and finishing process of the bio-based knitted fabric comprises the following steps:
open width oil removal and water washing: the grey cloth is subjected to at least five times of water washing treatment, wherein a washing assistant is adopted in the first time of water washing and the second time of water washing, the washing assistant comprises 5-7g/L of oil removal agent, 4-6g/L of soda and 1.0-2.0g/L of chelating dispersant, the temperature of the second time of water washing is higher than that of the first time of water washing, and the temperature from the third time of water washing to the last time of water washing is gradually reduced;
presetting: pre-shaping the gray fabric which is placed for less than or equal to 1h after water washing, wherein the pre-shaping temperature is 190-195 ℃, the speed is 27-29 m/min, the pre-shaping auxiliary agent comprises 1.0-2.0g/L of anti-thermal yellowing agent, 0.6-1.0g/L of glacial acetic acid, and the pH value of a water tank is 5.3-5.6;
and (3) sewing: sewing the selvedges of the grey cloth after the pre-setting treatment along the warp direction to form a cylinder shape;
dyeing: cloth is fed at 38-42 ℃ to wash water to wet grey cloth, acid dye is added for 8-12min, then dyeing auxiliary is added, after dyeing auxiliary is added for 8-12min, the temperature is raised to 88-97 ℃ at the speed of 0.9-1.1 ℃/min for heat preservation for a period of time, then the temperature is lowered to 48-52 ℃ at the speed of 0.9-1.1 ℃/min for draining, water is re-fed, the temperature is raised to 65-75 ℃ at the speed of 1.3-1.7 ℃/min for soaping for 10min, then the temperature is lowered to 48-52 ℃/min at the speed of 0.9-1.1 ℃/min for draining, water is re-fed, the temperature is raised to 75-85 ℃ at the speed of 1.3-1.7 ℃/min for color fixation for 18-22min, the temperature is lowered to 48-52 ℃ at the speed of 1.8-2.2 ℃/min for draining, wherein the dyeing auxiliary comprises 1.5-2.5g/L of chelating dispersant, 0.8-1.2g/L of acid leveling agent, 1.8-2.2g/L of softening agent in bath, 1.2-1.8g/L of ammonium sulfate and 0.4-0.6g/L of glacial acetic acid;
drying the cloth: carrying out dry cloth treatment on the dyed grey cloth at the temperature of 162-166 ℃ at the speed of 25-30 m/min;
shaping of a finished product: the grey cloth after the dry cloth treatment is shaped at the shaping temperature of 164-.
Optionally, the washing assistant in the step of open-width oil removal washing comprises 6g/L of oil removal agent, 5g/L of soda ash and 1.5g/L of chelating dispersant.
Optionally, the temperature of the first washing in the open-width oil removal washing step is 56-64 ℃, and the temperature of the second washing is 79-85 ℃.
Optionally, six washing treatments are performed on the grey cloth in the open width degreasing washing step, the temperature of the third washing is 90 ℃, the temperature of the fourth washing is 70 ℃, the temperature of the fifth washing is 60 ℃, the temperature of the sixth washing is 35 ℃, and the cloth feeding rate of the washing water is 10-12Y/min.
Optionally, the dye in the dyeing step comprises an acid dye: 0.18% of NHF-S, acid dye: 0.038% of NHF-S, acid dye: NHF-S0.0084%.
Optionally, the dyeing assistant in the dyeing step comprises 2g/L of chelating dispersant, 1.0g/L of acidic leveling agent, 2.0g/L of in-bath softener, 1.5g/L of ammonium sulfate and 0.5g/L of glacial acetic acid.
Optionally, the dyeing step specifically comprises:
the method comprises the steps of feeding cloth washing water at 40 ℃ to wet grey cloth, adding an acid dye for 10min, adding a dyeing auxiliary agent, heating to 88-97 ℃ at the speed of 1.0 ℃/min after adding the dyeing auxiliary agent for 10min, keeping the temperature for a period of time, then cooling to 50 ℃ at the speed of 1.0 ℃/min, draining, feeding soft water again, heating to 70 ℃ at the speed of 1.5 ℃/min, soaping for 10min, then cooling to 50 ℃/min at the speed of 1.0 ℃/min, draining, feeding soft water again, heating to 80 ℃ at the speed of 1.5 ℃/min, fixing the color for 20min, cooling to 50 ℃ at the speed of 2 ℃/min, and then draining.
Optionally, the grey cloth is moistened by adding cloth washing water for 15min at 40 ℃.
Optionally, in the dyeing step, the heat preservation time of the light color is 30min, and the heat preservation time of the dark color is 45 min.
According to a second aspect of the present invention, a bio-based knitted fabric is provided.
The bio-based knitted fabric is obtained by the dyeing and finishing process of the bio-based knitted fabric, and comprises 58 wt% of polyamide PA56 and 42 wt% of spandex.
The dyeing and finishing process of the bio-based knitted fabric can ensure that the bio-based knitted fabric after dyeing and finishing treatment has soft and glutinous hand feeling and cotton appearance, and achieves the effects of moisture absorption, sweat releasing and ventilation.
Detailed Description
Various exemplary embodiments of the present invention will now be described in detail. It should be noted that: the relative arrangement of the components and steps, the numerical expressions and numerical values set forth in these embodiments do not limit the scope of the present invention unless specifically stated otherwise.
The following description of at least one exemplary embodiment is merely illustrative in nature and is in no way intended to limit the invention, its application, or uses.
Techniques, methods, and apparatus known to those of ordinary skill in the relevant art may not be discussed in detail but are intended to be part of the specification where appropriate.
In all examples shown and discussed herein, any particular value should be construed as merely illustrative, and not limiting. Thus, other examples of the exemplary embodiments may have different values.
The invention provides a dyeing and finishing process of a bio-based knitted fabric, which comprises the following steps:
step (1), open width oil removal and water washing: and (3) carrying out at least five times of water washing treatment on the grey cloth, wherein water washing auxiliaries are adopted in the first water washing and the second water washing, the water washing auxiliaries comprise 5-7g/L degreasing agent, 4-6g/L soda ash and 1.0-2.0g/L chelating dispersant, the temperature of the second water washing is higher than that of the first water washing, and the temperature from the third water washing to the last water washing is gradually reduced.
The washing assistant in the step of open-width oil removal washing comprises 6g/L of oil removal agent, 5g/L of soda ash and 1.5g/L of chelating dispersant.
In the step of open-width oil removal washing, the temperature of the first washing is 56-64 ℃, and the temperature of the second washing is 79-85 ℃. And in the open width degreasing washing step, six washing treatments are carried out on the grey cloth, the temperature of the third washing is 90 ℃, the temperature of the fourth washing is 70 ℃, the temperature of the fifth washing is 60 ℃, the temperature of the sixth washing is 35 ℃, and the cloth feeding speed of the washing water is 10-12Y/min.
Step (2) presetting: and (3) performing pre-setting treatment on the gray fabric which is placed for less than or equal to 1h after water washing treatment, wherein the pre-setting temperature is 190-195 ℃, the speed is 27-29 m/min, the pre-setting auxiliary agent comprises 1.0-2.0g/L of anti-thermal yellowing agent, 0.6-1.0g/L of glacial acetic acid, and the pH value of a water tank is 5.3-5.6.
The standing time of the grey cloth after washing treatment cannot exceed 1h, otherwise, creases are generated on the cloth surface, and the dyeing effect is affected.
The control of the temperature and the speed in the pre-setting step influences the soft glutinous and full effects of the fabric. In addition, the pre-setting step can enable different types of yarns of the bio-based knitted fabric to be better bonded together, so that the problems of yarn scattering and edge breakage can be avoided when the fabric is cut, washed and pulled, and the effect of shape-following cutting is achieved.
Step (3) stitching: the selvedges of the pre-shaped grey cloth are sewn along the warp direction to form a cylinder shape. The sewing process allows the front of the blank to face inward, thereby preventing the front of the blank from being scratched.
Step (4), dyeing: cloth is fed at 38-42 ℃ to wash water to wet grey cloth, acid dye is added for 8-12min, then dyeing auxiliary is added, after dyeing auxiliary is added for 8-12min, the temperature is raised to 88-97 ℃ at the speed of 0.9-1.1 ℃/min for heat preservation for a period of time, then the temperature is lowered to 48-52 ℃ at the speed of 0.9-1.1 ℃/min for draining, water is re-fed, the temperature is raised to 65-75 ℃ at the speed of 1.3-1.7 ℃/min for soaping for 10min, then the temperature is lowered to 48-52 ℃/min at the speed of 0.9-1.1 ℃/min for draining, water is re-fed, the temperature is raised to 75-85 ℃ at the speed of 1.3-1.7 ℃/min for color fixation for 18-22min, the temperature is lowered to 48-52 ℃ at the speed of 1.8-2.2 ℃/min for draining, wherein the dyeing auxiliary comprises 1.5-2.5g/L of chelating dispersant, 0.8-1.2g/L of acid leveling agent, 1.8-2.2g/L of softening agent in bath, 1.2-1.8g/L of ammonium sulfate and 0.4-0.6g/L of glacial acetic acid.
The dyes in the dyeing step include acid dyes: 0.18% of NHF-S, acid dye: 0.038% of NHF-S, acid dye: NHF-S0.0084%.
The dyeing auxiliary agent in the dyeing step comprises 2g/L of chelating dispersant, 1.0g/L of acidic levelling agent, 2.0g/L of softening agent in bath, 1.5g/L of ammonium sulfate and 0.5g/L of glacial acetic acid.
The dyeing step may be specifically as follows:
the method comprises the steps of feeding cloth washing water at 40 ℃ to wet the gray fabric (the cloth washing water can be fed at 40 ℃ for 15min to wet the gray fabric), adding an acid dye for 10min, adding a dyeing auxiliary agent for 10min, heating to 88-97 ℃ at the speed of 1.0 ℃/min, preserving heat for a period of time (the light-color preserving time is 30min, the dark-color preserving time is 45min), then cooling to 50 ℃ at the speed of 1.0 ℃/min, draining, feeding soft water again, heating to 70 ℃ at the speed of 1.5 ℃/min, soaping for 10min, cooling to 50 ℃/min at the speed of 1.0 ℃/min, draining, feeding the soft water again, heating to 80 ℃ at the speed of 1.5 ℃/min, fixing for 20min, cooling to 50 ℃ at the speed of 2 ℃/min, and then draining.
The heating and cooling rates in the dyeing step are directly related to whether the cloth cover is damaged or not, and if the heating and cooling rates are not in accordance with the heating and cooling rules, the cloth cover is damaged.
The temperature of 88-97 ℃ in the dyeing step is the key for realizing the style and hand feeling of the fabric, the fabric beyond the temperature control has no soft glutinous and cotton feeling, has no fluffy feeling, the elasticity is affected, and the whole fabric can not achieve the expected effect.
Step (5), drying cloth: and (3) carrying out dry cloth treatment on the dyed gray fabric at the temperature of 162-166 ℃ at the speed of 25-30 m/min.
And (6) shaping a finished product: the grey cloth after the dry cloth treatment is shaped at the shaping temperature of 164-.
The control of the temperature and the speed in the shaping step of the finished product can also influence the soft and glutinous feeling of the cloth cover and the hand feeling of the fabric, the improper temperature and speed can destroy the characteristics of the biological base yarn, the effects of moisture absorption, sweat releasing and ventilation can not be achieved, the characteristics of the soft and glutinous hand feeling and the cotton appearance can also be lost, and the fabric is enabled to have stiff hand feeling.
The bio-based knitted fabric of the invention can comprise 58 wt% of polyamide PA56 and 42 wt% of spandex. The nylon PA56 can be nylon PA 5620D/24F, and the nylon PA56 has softer and more glutinous hand feeling and strong cotton feeling. The spandex can be spandex 20D lycra 962L, has high elasticity and restoring force, and has a horizontal strip effect in the weaving process. The bio-based knitted fabric can enable the cloth surface to have a certain invisible bamboo joint texture feeling by utilizing the characteristics of the polyamide PA56 yarn and the characteristic of uneven 962L yarn.
The experimental procedures used in the examples below are conventional unless otherwise specified, the materials and reagents used therein are commercially available, and the equipment used in the experiments are well known to those skilled in the art without otherwise specified.
Example 1
The grey cloth is knitted by 58 wt% of nylon PA 5620D/24F and 42 wt% of spandex 20D lycra 962L. The weaving method of the weft-knitted double-layer structure is adopted, and the weaving process comprises the following steps: a machine table: 32G 34' 3408T double-sided herborist machine; yarn length: PA56 is 18cm/100G, 20D 962L spandex is 6.5 cm/100G; site conditions: under the conditions of constant temperature and humidity (17-21 ℃, 55-70% humidity), the fuzzing and static electricity of the yarns are controlled, so that the fuzzing needle can not appear in the weaving process.
Step (1), open width oil removal and water washing: and (5) inspecting the cloth surface by loose cloth for later use. The first belt is added into the double-washing structure groove: 6g/L of degreasing agent, 5g/L of soda ash and 1.5g/L of chelating dispersant, adding positioning water, heating to 56-64 ℃, and circulating overflow until the auxiliary agent is uniform. Adding into a second double-washing water tank: 6g/L of degreasing agent, 5g/L of soda ash and 1.5g/L of chelating dispersant, adding positioning water, heating to 79-85 ℃, and circulating overflow until the auxiliary agent is uniform. The third single water tank is added with positioning water and heated to 90 ℃. And adding water into a fourth single water tank to the positioning water, and heating to 70 ℃. And adding water into a fifth single water tank to the positioning water, and heating to 60 ℃. And adding water into the sixth double water tanks to the positioning water, and heating to 35 ℃. And when the water temperature reaches a set value, performing overflow type water circulation oil removal treatment on the prepared cloth at the speed of 10-12Y/min, and finally performing water squeezing, cloth discharging and pre-setting treatment.
Step (2) presetting: and (3) pre-shaping the gray fabric which is placed for 0.5h after water washing treatment, wherein the pre-shaping temperature is 190-.
Step (3) stitching: the selvedges of the pre-shaped grey cloth are sewn along the warp direction to form a cylinder shape.
Step (4), dyeing: cloth is put into and washed with water at 40 ℃ for wetting the grey cloth for 15min, acid dyes (acid dyes: NHF-S: 0.18%, acid dyes: NHF-S: 0.038%, acid dyes: NHF-S: 0.0084%) are added for 10min, then dyeing auxiliaries (chelating dispersant of 2g/L, acid levelling agent of 1.0g/L, softening agent of 2.0g/L in bath, ammonium sulfate of 1.5g/L and glacial acetic acid of 0.5 g/L) are added, after 10min of dyeing auxiliaries are added, the temperature is raised to 88-97 ℃ at the speed of 1.0 ℃/min, the temperature is kept for 45min, then the temperature is lowered to 50 ℃ at the speed of 1.0 ℃/min, then water is drained, soft water is added again, the temperature is raised to 70 ℃ at the speed of 1.5 ℃/min, then soaping is carried out for 10min, then the temperature is lowered to 50 ℃/min at the speed of 1.0 ℃/min, water is drained again, and the temperature is raised to 80 ℃ at the speed of 1.5 ℃/min, then the color is fixed, cooling to 50 deg.C at 2 deg.C/min, and discharging water.
Step (5), drying cloth: and (3) carrying out dry cloth treatment on the dyed grey cloth at the temperature of 162-166 ℃ at the speed of 25-30 m/min.
And (6) shaping a finished product: the grey cloth after the dry cloth treatment is shaped at the shaping temperature of 164-.
The properties of the bio-based knitted fabric obtained after the dyeing and finishing process of example 1 are as follows:
as can be seen from the above table, the data of the tensile elastic elongation, the tensile elastic recovery rate, the snagging, the fuzzing, the pilling and the shrinkage of the bio-based knitted fabric obtained after the dyeing and finishing treatment in example 1 conform to the use conditions of the product without the size; the hand feeling of the dyed and finished bio-based knitted fabric shows the bio-based cotton feeling and the soft and glutinous style, and the fullness is excellent; in appearance, the effect of invisible bamboo joints is reflected.
Comparative example 1
The difference from example 1 is that: the presetting temperature is 200-202 ℃, and the speed is 25-26 m/min.
The obtained fabric is stiff in hand feeling, is solid, loses the characteristic of biobased soft glutinous, is not bright enough in color, and changes the characteristic of good biobased hygroscopicity. And the elasticity is weakened, the stretching is reduced by about 120 percent, and the effect of dark bamboo joints is not achieved.
Comparative example 2
The difference from example 1 is that:
step (4), dyeing: cloth washing water is fed at 40 ℃ to wet the grey cloth for 15min, acid dyes (acid dyes: NHF-S: 0.18%, acid dyes: NHF-S: 0.038%, acid dyes: NHF-S: 0.0084%) are added for 10min, then dyeing auxiliaries (chelating dispersant of 2g/L, acid levelling agent of 1.0g/L, softening agent of 2.0g/L in bath, ammonium sulfate of 1.5g/L and glacial acetic acid of 0.5 g/L) are added, after 10min of dyeing auxiliaries are added, the temperature is raised to 100 ℃ at the speed of 1.5-2.0 ℃/min, the temperature is kept for 45min, then the temperature is lowered to 50 ℃ at the speed of 1.5-2.0 ℃/min, water is drained, soft water is fed again, the temperature is raised to 70 ℃ at the speed of 1.5 ℃/min, then soaping is carried out for 10min, then the temperature is lowered to 50 ℃/min, water is drained again fed, and the temperature is raised to 80 ℃ at the speed of 1.5 ℃/min for fixation, cooling to 50 deg.C at 2 deg.C/min, and discharging water.
The obtained fabric has stiff hand feeling, strong chemical fiber feeling of the fabric surface, and is not smooth enough, the characteristic of soft glutinous and cotton feeling of the bio-based fabric is lost, and the characteristic of good moisture absorption of the bio-based fabric is changed. And the elasticity is weakened, and the stretching is reduced by about 80 percent.
Comparative example 3
The difference from example 1 is that: the setting temperature of the finished product is 160-164 ℃.
The obtained fabric is loose, has no supporting point, shrinks by more than 7 percent, has small elastic recovery rate (about 60 percent), and cannot be used as a material without size.
Comparative example 4
The difference from example 1 is that: the presetting temperature is 185-190 ℃, and the speed is 25-26 m/min; the setting temperature of the finished product is 170 ℃.
The obtained fabric has loose hand feeling, unqualified shape-following cutting effect, edge scattering and thread off problems and no dark bamboo joint effect.
Although some specific embodiments of the present invention have been described in detail by way of examples, it should be understood by those skilled in the art that the above examples are for illustrative purposes only and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention. It will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that modifications may be made to the above embodiments without departing from the scope and spirit of the invention. The scope of the invention is defined by the appended claims.
Claims (10)
1. A dyeing and finishing process of a bio-based knitted fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps:
open width oil removal and water washing: the grey cloth is subjected to at least five times of water washing treatment, wherein a washing assistant is adopted in the first time of water washing and the second time of water washing, the washing assistant comprises 5-7g/L of oil removal agent, 4-6g/L of soda and 1.0-2.0g/L of chelating dispersant, the temperature of the second time of water washing is higher than that of the first time of water washing, and the temperature from the third time of water washing to the last time of water washing is gradually reduced;
presetting: pre-shaping the gray fabric which is placed for less than or equal to 1h after water washing, wherein the pre-shaping temperature is 190-195 ℃, the speed is 27-29 m/min, the pre-shaping auxiliary agent comprises 1.0-2.0g/L of anti-thermal yellowing agent, 0.6-1.0g/L of glacial acetic acid, and the pH value of a water tank is 5.3-5.6;
and (3) sewing: sewing the selvedges of the grey cloth after the pre-setting treatment along the warp direction to form a cylinder shape;
dyeing: cloth is fed at 38-42 ℃ to wash water to wet grey cloth, acid dye is added for 8-12min, then dyeing auxiliary is added, after dyeing auxiliary is added for 8-12min, the temperature is raised to 88-97 ℃ at the speed of 0.9-1.1 ℃/min for heat preservation for a period of time, then the temperature is lowered to 48-52 ℃ at the speed of 0.9-1.1 ℃/min for draining, water is re-fed, the temperature is raised to 65-75 ℃ at the speed of 1.3-1.7 ℃/min for soaping for 10min, then the temperature is lowered to 48-52 ℃/min at the speed of 0.9-1.1 ℃/min for draining, water is re-fed, the temperature is raised to 75-85 ℃ at the speed of 1.3-1.7 ℃/min for color fixation for 18-22min, the temperature is lowered to 48-52 ℃ at the speed of 1.8-2.2 ℃/min for draining, wherein the dyeing auxiliary comprises 1.5-2.5g/L of chelating dispersant, 0.8-1.2g/L of acid leveling agent, 1.8-2.2g/L of softening agent in bath, 1.2-1.8g/L of ammonium sulfate and 0.4-0.6g/L of glacial acetic acid;
drying the cloth: carrying out dry cloth treatment on the dyed grey cloth at the temperature of 162 ℃ and 166 ℃ at the speed of 25-30 m/min;
shaping of a finished product: the grey cloth after the dry cloth treatment is shaped at the shaping temperature of 164-.
2. The dyeing and finishing process of the bio-based knitted fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that the washing aid in the open width degreasing washing step comprises 6g/L degreasing agent, 5g/L soda ash and 1.5g/L chelating dispersant.
3. The dyeing and finishing process of the bio-based knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the temperature of the first washing in the open width degreasing washing step is 56-64 ℃ and the temperature of the second washing in the open width degreasing washing step is 79-85 ℃.
4. The dyeing and finishing process of the bio-based knitted fabric according to claim 3, characterized in that the gray fabric is subjected to six washing treatments in the open width degreasing washing step, the temperature of the third washing is 90 ℃, the temperature of the fourth washing is 70 ℃, the temperature of the fifth washing is 60 ℃, the temperature of the sixth washing is 35 ℃, and the cloth feeding rate of the washing water is 10-12Y/min.
5. Dyeing and finishing process for bio-based knitted fabrics according to claim 1, characterized in that the dyes in the dyeing step comprise acid dyes: 0.18% of NHF-S, acid dye: 0.038% of NHF-S, acid dye: NHF-S0.0084%.
6. The dyeing and finishing process of the bio-based knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the dyeing auxiliary in the dyeing step comprises 2g/L of chelating dispersant, 1.0g/L of acidic leveling agent, 2.0g/L of in-bath softener, 1.5g/L of ammonium sulfate and 0.5g/L of glacial acetic acid.
7. The dyeing and finishing process of the bio-based knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the dyeing steps are as follows:
the method comprises the steps of feeding cloth washing water at 40 ℃ to wet grey cloth, adding an acid dye for 10min, adding a dyeing auxiliary agent, heating to 88-97 ℃ at the speed of 1.0 ℃/min after adding the dyeing auxiliary agent for 10min, keeping the temperature for a period of time, then cooling to 50 ℃ at the speed of 1.0 ℃/min, draining water, feeding soft water again, heating to 70 ℃ at the speed of 1.5 ℃/min, soaping for 10min, then cooling to 50 ℃/min at the speed of 1.0 ℃/min, draining water, feeding soft water again, heating to 80 ℃ at the speed of 1.5 ℃/min, fixing for 20min, cooling to 50 ℃ at the speed of 2 ℃/min, and draining water.
8. The dyeing and finishing process of bio-based knitted fabric according to claim 7, characterized in that the fabric is wetted with fabric washing water at 40 ℃ for 15 min.
9. The dyeing and finishing process of bio-based knitted fabric according to claim 7, characterized in that the holding time of the light color in the dyeing step is 30min and the holding time of the dark color is 45 min.
10. A bio-based knitted fabric obtained by the dyeing and finishing process of the bio-based knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the bio-based knitted fabric comprises 58 wt% of polyamide PA56 and 42 wt% of spandex.
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