CN114703683B - Bio-based knitted fabric and dyeing and finishing process thereof - Google Patents
Bio-based knitted fabric and dyeing and finishing process thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN114703683B CN114703683B CN202210301077.7A CN202210301077A CN114703683B CN 114703683 B CN114703683 B CN 114703683B CN 202210301077 A CN202210301077 A CN 202210301077A CN 114703683 B CN114703683 B CN 114703683B
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- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 117
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 55
- 238000007730 finishing process Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 17
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 79
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 77
- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 36
- 239000012752 auxiliary agent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 32
- 238000007493 shaping process Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 32
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 28
- 238000001816 cooling Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 26
- 239000000980 acid dye Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 21
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acetic acid Chemical compound CC(O)=O QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 27
- 239000002270 dispersing agent Substances 0.000 claims description 14
- 229960000583 acetic acid Drugs 0.000 claims description 12
- CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L Sodium Carbonate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]C([O-])=O CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 11
- 239000004677 Nylon Substances 0.000 claims description 10
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 10
- 229920001778 nylon Polymers 0.000 claims description 10
- 229920002334 Spandex Polymers 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000012362 glacial acetic acid Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000004759 spandex Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000008234 soft water Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000004902 Softening Agent Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- BFNBIHQBYMNNAN-UHFFFAOYSA-N ammonium sulfate Chemical compound N.N.OS(O)(=O)=O BFNBIHQBYMNNAN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 229910052921 ammonium sulfate Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 6
- 235000011130 ammonium sulphate Nutrition 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000013527 degreasing agent Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000005237 degreasing agent Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000009958 sewing Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000004383 yellowing Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 230000002378 acidificating effect Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 abstract description 9
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 abstract description 8
- 238000010521 absorption reaction Methods 0.000 abstract description 5
- 210000004243 sweat Anatomy 0.000 abstract description 5
- 238000009423 ventilation Methods 0.000 abstract description 4
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 8
- 235000017166 Bambusa arundinacea Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- 235000017491 Bambusa tulda Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- 241001330002 Bambuseae Species 0.000 description 4
- 235000015334 Phyllostachys viridis Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 4
- 239000011425 bamboo Substances 0.000 description 4
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 4
- 229910000029 sodium carbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 4
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 description 4
- 238000005238 degreasing Methods 0.000 description 3
- 230000009916 joint effect Effects 0.000 description 3
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 3
- WNLRTRBMVRJNCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N adipic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCC(O)=O WNLRTRBMVRJNCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 238000005520 cutting process Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000002474 experimental method Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000011534 incubation Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000011084 recovery Methods 0.000 description 2
- CXMXRPHRNRROMY-UHFFFAOYSA-N sebacic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCCCCCC(O)=O CXMXRPHRNRROMY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Carbon Chemical compound [C] OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000000218 acetic acid group Chemical class C(C)(=O)* 0.000 description 1
- 239000001361 adipic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000011037 adipic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000002411 adverse Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229910052799 carbon Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000003153 chemical reaction reagent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000007599 discharging Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000005611 electricity Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000007613 environmental effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000003631 expected effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000014509 gene expression Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000012986 modification Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000003020 moisturizing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000000465 moulding Methods 0.000 description 1
- KJOMYNHMBRNCNY-UHFFFAOYSA-N pentane-1,1-diamine Chemical compound CCCCC(N)N KJOMYNHMBRNCNY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000003208 petroleum Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002861 polymer material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005096 rolling process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000011090 solid board Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000003068 static effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
- D06P3/8204—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06L—DRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
- D06L1/00—Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods
- D06L1/12—Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods using aqueous solvents
- D06L1/16—Multi-step processes
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M13/10—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing oxygen
- D06M13/184—Carboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
- D06M13/188—Monocarboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/0032—Determining dye recipes and dyeing parameters; Colour matching or monitoring
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/39—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using acid dyes
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
- D06P1/62—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders using compositions containing low-molecular-weight organic compounds with sulfate, sulfonate, sulfenic or sulfinic groups
- D06P1/621—Compounds without nitrogen
- D06P1/627—Sulfates
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
- D06P5/02—After-treatment
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/30—Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M2101/34—Polyamides
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/30—Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M2101/38—Polyurethanes
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Coloring (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a bio-based knitted fabric and a dyeing and finishing process thereof, wherein the dyeing and finishing process comprises the following steps: carrying out at least five washing treatments on the grey cloth, wherein the temperature of the second washing treatment is higher than that of the first washing treatment, and the temperature of the third washing treatment to the last washing treatment is gradually reduced; pre-shaping the grey cloth at 190-195 deg.c and 27-29 m/min; stitching; feeding cloth washing water at 38-42 ℃ to wet the grey cloth, adding acid dye, adding dyeing auxiliary agent, heating to 88-97 ℃ at the speed of 0.9-1.1 ℃/min, and then cooling; drying cloth; and (3) shaping the grey cloth after the cloth drying treatment, wherein the shaping temperature is 164-168 ℃ and the speed is 25-27 m/min. The dyeing and finishing process of the bio-based knitted fabric can ensure that the dyed and finished bio-based knitted fabric has soft waxy hand feeling and cotton feeling appearance, and achieves the effects of moisture absorption, sweat release and ventilation.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the field of fabric treatment, in particular to a bio-based knitted fabric and a dyeing and finishing process thereof.
Background
The bio-based knitted fabric is a fabric comprising bio-based yarns. The bio-based yarn is, for example, nylon PA56, wherein the nylon PA56 can be formed by mixing and spinning or twisting a polymer material polymerized by bio-based pentanediamine and petroleum-based adipic acid or bio-based sebacic acid and other fiber raw materials, and the mass percentage of the bio-based material can exceed 47%. The bio-based knitted fabric has the characteristics of low carbon, environmental protection and sustainability, has the characteristics of moisture absorption and sweat release, and has special cotton feel and softer hand feeling.
However, the dyeing and finishing treatment of the grey cloth of the bio-based knitted fabric by adopting the existing dyeing and finishing process can have adverse effects on the advantages of softness, fullness, skin moisturizing, moisture absorption, sweat release, ventilation and the like of the bio-based knitted fabric.
Therefore, how to provide a dyeing and finishing process capable of effectively maintaining the advantages of the bio-based knitted fabric is a technical problem to be solved in the art.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a novel technical scheme of dyeing and finishing process of a bio-based knitted fabric, which can effectively maintain the advantages of the bio-based knitted fabric.
According to a first aspect of the present invention, a dyeing and finishing process for a bio-based knitted fabric is provided.
The dyeing and finishing process of the bio-based knitted fabric comprises the following steps:
open width deoiling and washing: washing the grey cloth by adopting a washing auxiliary agent in the first washing and the second washing, wherein the washing auxiliary agent comprises 5-7g/L of degreasing agent, 4-6g/L of sodium carbonate and 1.0-2.0g/L of chelating dispersant, the temperature of the second washing is higher than that of the first washing, and the temperature of the third washing to the last washing is gradually reduced;
presetting: pre-shaping the grey cloth which is placed for less than or equal to 1h after the water washing treatment, wherein the pre-shaping temperature is 190-195 ℃ and the speed is 27-29 m/min, the pre-shaping auxiliary agent comprises 1.0-2.0g/L of anti-thermal yellowing agent, 0.6-1.0g/L of glacial acetic acid, and the pH value of a water binding groove is 5.3-5.6;
stitching: sewing the selvedge of the gray fabric after the pre-shaping treatment along the warp direction to form a cylinder;
dyeing: moistening grey cloth by cloth washing water at 38-42 ℃, adding an acid dye for 8-12min, adding a dyeing auxiliary agent, adding the dyeing auxiliary agent for 8-12min, heating to 88-97 ℃ at a rate of 0.9-1.1 ℃/min, preserving heat for a period of time, cooling to 48-52 ℃ at a rate of 0.9-1.1 ℃/min, draining water, re-feeding water, heating to 65-75 ℃ at a rate of 1.3-1.7 ℃/min, soaping for 10min, draining water after cooling to 48-52 ℃/min at a rate of 0.9-1.1 ℃/min, re-feeding water again, heating to 75-85 ℃ at a rate of 1.3-1.7 ℃/min, fixing for 18-22min, cooling to 48-52 ℃ at a rate of 1.8-2.2 ℃/min, draining water, wherein the dyeing auxiliary agent comprises a chelating dispersant of 1.5-2.5g/L, an acidic dye of 0.8-1.2g/L, a softener of 1.8-2.2g/L, and acetic acid of 1.8-2 g/L acetic acid salt;
and (3) drying cloth: drying the dyed grey cloth at 162-166 deg.c and 25-30 m/min;
shaping a finished product: setting the grey cloth after the dry cloth treatment at 164-168 deg.c and 25-27 m/min and setting assistant including hydrophilic softening agent in 20-30 g/L.
Optionally, the washing water auxiliary agent in the open-width oil removal washing step comprises 6g/L of oil removal agent, 5g/L of sodium carbonate and 1.5g/L of chelating dispersant.
Optionally, the temperature of the first water washing step in the open-width oil removal water washing step is 56-64 ℃, and the temperature of the second water washing step is 79-85 ℃.
Optionally, the grey cloth is subjected to six-pass washing treatment in the open-width oil removal washing step, wherein the temperature of the third pass washing is 90 ℃, the temperature of the fourth pass washing is 70 ℃, the temperature of the fifth pass washing is 60 ℃, the temperature of the sixth pass washing is 35 ℃, and the cloth feeding rate of washing water is 10-12Y/min.
Optionally, the dye in the dyeing step comprises an acid dye: NHF-S0.18%, acid dye: NHF-S0.038%, acid dye: NHF-S0.0084%.
Optionally, the dyeing auxiliary in the dyeing step comprises 2g/L of chelating dispersant, 1.0g/L of acid leveling agent, 2.0g/L of bath softener, 1.5g/L of ammonium sulfate and 0.5g/L of glacial acetic acid.
Optionally, the dyeing step specifically includes:
feeding cloth at 40 ℃ to wet grey cloth with washing water, adding acid dye for 10min, adding dyeing auxiliary agent for 10min, heating to 88-97 ℃ at a speed of 1.0 ℃/min, preserving heat for a period of time, cooling to 50 ℃ at a speed of 1.0 ℃/min, draining, feeding soft water again, heating to 70 ℃ at a speed of 1.5 ℃/min, soaping for 10min, cooling to 50 ℃ at a speed of 1.0 ℃/min, draining, feeding soft water again, heating to 80 ℃ at a speed of 1.5 ℃/min, fixing color for 20min, cooling to 50 ℃ at a speed of 2 ℃/min, and draining.
Optionally, the grey cloth is wetted by cloth washing water for 15min at 40 ℃.
Optionally, the incubation time of the light color in the dyeing step is 30min, and the incubation time of the dark color is 45min.
According to a second aspect of the present invention, there is provided a biobased knitted fabric.
The bio-based knitted fabric is obtained after the dyeing and finishing process of the bio-based knitted fabric is processed, and the bio-based knitted fabric comprises 58wt% of nylon PA56 and 42wt% of spandex.
The dyeing and finishing process of the bio-based knitted fabric can ensure that the dyed and finished bio-based knitted fabric has soft waxy hand feeling and cotton feeling appearance, and achieves the effects of moisture absorption, sweat release and ventilation.
Detailed Description
Various exemplary embodiments of the invention will now be described in detail. It should be noted that: the relative arrangement of the components and steps, numerical expressions and numerical values set forth in these embodiments do not limit the scope of the present invention unless it is specifically stated otherwise.
The following description of at least one exemplary embodiment is merely exemplary in nature and is in no way intended to limit the invention, its application, or uses.
Techniques, methods, and apparatus known to one of ordinary skill in the relevant art may not be discussed in detail, but are intended to be part of the specification where appropriate.
In all examples shown and discussed herein, any specific values should be construed as merely illustrative, and not a limitation. Thus, other examples of exemplary embodiments may have different values.
The invention provides a dyeing and finishing process of a bio-based knitted fabric, which comprises the following steps of:
step (1) open width degreasing and water washing: and (3) washing the grey cloth by at least five times, wherein washing auxiliary agents are adopted in the first washing and the second washing, the washing auxiliary agents comprise 5-7g/L of degreasing agent, 4-6g/L of sodium carbonate and 1.0-2.0g/L of chelating dispersant, the temperature of the second washing is higher than that of the first washing, and the temperature of the third washing to the last washing is gradually reduced.
The washing water auxiliary agent in the open-width oil removal and washing step comprises 6g/L of oil removal agent, 5g/L of sodium carbonate and 1.5g/L of chelating dispersant.
The temperature of the first water washing in the open-width oil removal water washing step is 56-64 ℃, and the temperature of the second water washing is 79-85 ℃. In the open width degreasing washing step, the grey cloth is subjected to six washing treatments, wherein the temperature of the third washing treatment is 90 ℃, the temperature of the fourth washing treatment is 70 ℃, the temperature of the fifth washing treatment is 60 ℃, the temperature of the sixth washing treatment is 35 ℃, and the cloth feeding rate of washing water is 10-12Y/min.
Step (2) pre-shaping: pre-shaping the grey cloth which is placed for less than or equal to 1h after the water washing treatment, wherein the pre-shaping temperature is 190-195 ℃, the speed is 27-29 m/min, the pre-shaping auxiliary agent comprises 1.0-2.0g/L of thermal yellowing resistant agent, 0.6-1.0g/L of glacial acetic acid, and the pH value of a water binding groove is 5.3-5.6.
The setting time of the grey cloth after the water washing treatment cannot exceed 1h, otherwise, folds are generated on the cloth cover, and the dyeing effect is affected.
The control of temperature and speed in the pre-shaping step will affect the soft and full effect of the fabric. In addition, the pre-shaping step can enable different types of yarns of the bio-based knitted fabric to be better bonded together, so that the problems of scattered lines and broken edges can not occur when the fabric is sheared, washed and pulled, and the effect of shape-following cutting is achieved.
And (3) stitching: and sewing the selvedge of the gray fabric after the pre-shaping treatment along the warp direction to form a cylinder shape. The sewing process may cause the front of the blank to face inward, thereby preventing the front of the blank from being scratched.
And (4) dyeing: the method comprises the steps of feeding cloth washing water at 38-42 ℃ to wet grey cloth, adding an acid dye for 8-12min, adding a dyeing auxiliary agent, adding the dyeing auxiliary agent for 8-12min, heating to 88-97 ℃ at a rate of 0.9-1.1 ℃/min, preserving heat for a period of time, cooling to 48-52 ℃ at a rate of 0.9-1.1 ℃/min, draining water, re-feeding water, heating to 65-75 ℃ at a rate of 1.3-1.7 ℃/min, soaping for 10min, draining water after cooling to 48-52 ℃/min at a rate of 0.9-1.1 ℃/min, re-feeding water, heating to 75-85 ℃ at a rate of 1.3-1.7 ℃/min, fixing for 18-22min, cooling to 48-52 ℃ at a rate of 1.8-2.2 ℃/min, draining water, wherein the dyeing auxiliary agent comprises a chelating dispersant of 1.5-2.5g/L, an acidic dye of 0.8-1.2g/L, a softener of 1.8-2.2g/L, and acetic acid of 1.2g/L of ammonium sulfate and acetic acid of 0.4-0.8 g/0.4 g.
The dye in the dyeing step includes an acid dye: NHF-S0.18%, acid dye: NHF-S0.038%, acid dye: NHF-S0.0084%.
The dyeing auxiliary agent in the dyeing step comprises 2g/L of chelating dispersant, 1.0g/L of acid leveling agent, 2.0g/L of softening agent in bath, 1.5g/L of ammonium sulfate and 0.5g/L of glacial acetic acid.
The dyeing step may be specifically as follows:
feeding cloth washing water at 40 ℃ to wet grey cloth (the cloth washing water can be fed at 40 ℃ for 15min to wet grey cloth), adding an acid dye for 10min, adding a dyeing auxiliary agent, adding the dyeing auxiliary agent for 10min, heating to 88-97 ℃ at a speed of 1.0 ℃/min, preserving heat for a period of time (the preserving heat for light color is 30min, the preserving heat for dark color is 45 min), cooling to 50 ℃ at a speed of 1.0 ℃/min, draining, re-feeding soft water, heating to 70 ℃ at a speed of 1.5 ℃/min, soaping for 10min, cooling to 50 ℃/min at a speed of 1.0 ℃/min, draining, re-feeding soft water, heating to 80 ℃ at a speed of 1.5 ℃/min, fixing color, cooling to 50 ℃ at a speed of 2 ℃/min, and draining.
The rate of heating and cooling in the dyeing step is directly related to whether the cloth cover is damaged or not, and if the heating and cooling rules are not met, the cloth cover is damaged.
The temperature of 88-97 ℃ in the dyeing step is the key for realizing the style and the hand feeling of the fabric, soft waxy and cotton feeling of the fabric beyond the temperature control cannot occur, fluffy feeling cannot occur, the elasticity is also affected, and the whole fabric cannot achieve the expected effect.
And (5) drying cloth: and (3) carrying out cloth drying treatment on the dyed grey cloth, wherein the temperature of the cloth drying treatment is 162-166 ℃ and the speed is 25-30 m/min.
Shaping the finished product in the step (6): setting the grey cloth after the dry cloth treatment at 164-168 deg.c and 25-27 m/min and setting assistant including hydrophilic softening agent in 20-30 g/L.
The temperature and speed control in the finished product shaping step can also influence the soft waxy feel of the hand feeling of the cloth cover and the fabric, and unsuitable temperature and speed can damage the characteristics of the bio-based yarn, so that the effects of moisture absorption, sweat release and ventilation can not be achieved, and the characteristics of soft waxy hand feeling and appearance cotton feel can be lost, so that the hand feeling of the fabric is stiff.
The bio-based knitted fabric of the present invention may include 58wt% nylon PA56 and 42wt% spandex. The nylon PA56 can be nylon PA56 20D/24F, and the nylon PA56 has softer hand feeling and strong cotton feeling. The spandex can be spandex 20D lycra 962L, the elasticity and the restoring force are large, and the transverse strip effect is achieved in the weaving process. The bio-based knitted fabric utilizes the characteristic of nylon PA56 yarn and the characteristic of 962L uneven yarn, so that the fabric surface has certain invisible bamboo joint texture.
The experimental procedures used in the examples below are conventional, and the materials and reagents used, unless otherwise indicated, are commercially available, and the equipment used in the experiments, unless otherwise indicated, are well known to those skilled in the art.
Example 1
The grey cloth is woven by 58wt% of nylon PA 56D/24F and 42wt% of spandex 20D lycra 962L. The weaving method of the weft knitting double-layer structure is adopted, and the weaving process is as follows: the machine comprises: 32G 34' 3408T double-sided source-Bai machine; yarn length: PA56 = 18cm/100G,20d 962l spandex = 6.5cm/100G; site conditions: under the conditions of constant temperature and humidity (17-21 ℃ and 55-70% of humidity), the fuzzing and static electricity of the yarns are controlled, so that fuzzing needles cannot occur in the weaving process.
Step (1) open width degreasing and water washing: checking cloth surface for standby. The first band double washing water structure groove is added with: 6g/L of degreasing agent, 5g/L of calcined soda and 1.5g/L of chelating dispersant, adding positioning water, heating to 56-64 ℃, and circularly overflowing to achieve uniform auxiliary agent. The second double washing water tank is added with: 6g/L of degreasing agent, 5g/L of calcined soda and 1.5g/L of chelating dispersant, adding positioning water, heating to 79-85 ℃, and circularly overflowing to achieve uniform auxiliary agent. A third single water tank was added to the positioning water and heated to 90 ℃. And adding water into the fourth single water tank to position water, and heating to 70 ℃. And adding water into the fifth single water tank to position water, and heating to 60 ℃. The sixth double water tank is added with water to the positioning water and heated to 35 ℃. When the water temperature reaches a set value, carrying out overflow type water circulation oil removal treatment on the prepared cloth according to the speed of 10-12Y/min, and finally rolling water, discharging the cloth and carrying out pre-shaping treatment.
Step (2) pre-shaping: pre-shaping the grey cloth which is placed for 0.5h after the water washing treatment, wherein the pre-shaping temperature is 190-195 ℃, the speed is 27-29 m/min, the pre-shaping auxiliary agent comprises 1.5g/L of thermal yellowing resistant agent, 0.6-1.0g/L of glacial acetic acid, and the pH value of a water binding groove is 5.3-5.6.
And (3) stitching: and sewing the selvedge of the gray fabric after the pre-shaping treatment along the warp direction to form a cylinder shape.
And (4) dyeing: feeding cloth at 40 ℃ to wet grey cloth for 15min, adding an acid dye (acid dye: NHF-S:0.18%, acid dye: NHF-S:0.038%, acid dye: NHF-S: 0.0084%) for 10min, adding a dyeing auxiliary agent (chelating dispersant of 2g/L, acid leveling agent of 1.0g/L, softener of 2.0g/L in bath, ammonium sulfate of 1.5g/L and glacial acetic acid of 0.5 g/L), adding a dyeing auxiliary agent for 10min, heating to 88-97 ℃ at a rate of 1.0 ℃/min, preserving heat for 45min, cooling to 50 ℃ at a rate of 1.0 ℃/min, draining water, re-feeding soft water, heating to 70 ℃ at a rate of 1.5 ℃/min, soaping for 10min, draining water again, re-feeding soft water, heating to 80 ℃ at a rate of 1.5 ℃/min, fixing for 20min, cooling to 50 ℃ at a rate of 2 ℃/min, and then cooling to 50 ℃.
And (5) drying cloth: and (3) carrying out cloth drying treatment on the dyed grey cloth, wherein the temperature of the cloth drying treatment is 162-166 ℃ and the speed is 25-30 m/min.
Shaping the finished product in the step (6): setting the grey cloth after the dry cloth treatment at 164-168 deg.c and 25-27 m/min and setting assistant including hydrophilic softening agent in 20-30 g/L.
The properties of the biobased knitted fabric obtained after the dyeing and finishing process of example 1 are shown in the following table:
from the above table, the data of the tensile elastic elongation, tensile elastic recovery, yarn hooking, fuzzing, pilling and shrinkage of the bio-based knitted fabric obtained after dyeing and finishing treatment in example 1 meet the use conditions of the size-free product; the hand feeling of the biological-based knitted fabric after dyeing and finishing treatment shows the style of biological-based cotton feeling, softness and glutinous, and has excellent plumpness; in the appearance, the invisible bamboo joint effect is shown.
Comparative example 1
The difference from example 1 is that: the pre-molding temperature is 200-202 ℃ and the speed is 25-26 m/min.
The obtained fabric has stiff hand feeling and solid board, loses the characteristics of biological base softness and glutinous, has insufficient bright color, and changes the characteristics of biological base hygroscopicity. And the elasticity is weakened, the stretching is reduced by about 120 percent, and the dark bamboo joint effect is avoided.
Comparative example 2
The difference from example 1 is that:
and (4) dyeing: feeding cloth at 40 ℃ to wet grey cloth for 15min, adding an acid dye (acid dye: NHF-S:0.18%, acid dye: NHF-S:0.038%, acid dye: NHF-S: 0.0084%) for 10min, adding a dyeing auxiliary agent (chelating dispersant of 2g/L, acid leveling agent of 1.0g/L, softening agent in 2.0g/L, ammonium sulfate of 1.5g/L and glacial acetic acid of 0.5 g/L), adding a dyeing auxiliary agent for 10min, heating to 100 ℃ at a rate of 1.5-2.0 ℃/min, preserving heat for 45min, then cooling to 50 ℃ at a rate of 1.5-2.0 ℃/min, draining water, heating to 70 ℃ at a rate of 1.5 ℃/min, soaping for 10min, then cooling to 50 ℃/min, draining water, again feeding and cooling to 80 ℃ at a rate of 1.5 ℃/min, heating to 20min, cooling to 50 ℃ at a rate of 2 ℃/min, and cooling to 50 ℃.
The obtained fabric has the advantages of stiff hand feeling, strong chemical fiber feeling of the fabric surface, no smoothness, loss of the characteristics of soft waxy cotton feeling of the biological base and change of the characteristics of good hygroscopicity of the biological base. And the elasticity is weakened, and the stretching is reduced by about 80 percent.
Comparative example 3
The difference from example 1 is that: the shaping temperature of the finished product is 160-164 ℃.
The obtained fabric is loose, has no supporting point, is more than 7% in shrinkage, has small elastic recovery rate (about 60%), and cannot be made into a size-free material.
Comparative example 4
The difference from example 1 is that: the pre-shaping temperature is 185-190 ℃ and the speed is 25-26 m/min; the shaping temperature of the finished product is 170 ℃.
The obtained fabric has loose hand feeling, unqualified shape-following cutting effect, scattered edges and off-line problems, and no dark bamboo joint effect.
While certain specific embodiments of the invention have been described in detail by way of example, it will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that the above examples are for illustration only and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention. It will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that modifications may be made to the above embodiments without departing from the scope and spirit of the invention. The scope of the invention is defined by the appended claims.
Claims (2)
1. Dyeing and finishing process of a bio-based knitted fabric, which is characterized in that the bio-based knitted fabric comprises 58wt% of nylon PA56 and 42wt% of spandex, and comprises the following steps:
open width deoiling and washing: carrying out six-pass water washing treatment on the grey cloth, wherein the first water washing and the second water washing adopt a water washing auxiliary agent for water washing, the water washing auxiliary agent comprises 6g/L of degreasing agent, 5g/L of calcined soda and 1.5g/L of chelating dispersant, the temperature of the first water washing is 56-64 ℃, the temperature of the second water washing is 79-85 ℃, the temperature of the third water washing is 90 ℃, the temperature of the fourth water washing is 70 ℃, the temperature of the fifth water washing is 60 ℃, the temperature of the sixth water washing is 35 ℃, and the water washing cloth feeding rate is 10-12Y/min;
presetting: pre-shaping the grey cloth which is placed for less than or equal to 1h after the water washing treatment, wherein the pre-shaping temperature is 190-195 ℃ and the speed is 27-29 m/min, the pre-shaping auxiliary agent comprises 1.0-2.0g/L of anti-thermal yellowing agent, 0.6-1.0g/L of glacial acetic acid, and the pH value of a water binding groove is 5.3-5.6;
stitching: sewing the selvedge of the gray fabric after the pre-shaping treatment along the warp direction to form a cylinder;
dyeing: moistening grey cloth by cloth washing water at 40 ℃ for 15min, adding an acid dye for 10min, adding a dyeing auxiliary agent, adding the dyeing auxiliary agent for 10min, heating to 88-97 ℃ at a speed of 1.0 ℃/min, preserving heat for a period of time, then cooling to 50 ℃ at a speed of 1.0 ℃/min, draining water, re-feeding soft water, heating to 70 ℃ at a speed of 1.5 ℃/min, soaping for 10min, cooling to 50 ℃/min, draining water again, heating to 80 ℃ at a speed of 1.0 ℃/min, fixing for 20min, cooling to 50 ℃ at 2 ℃/min, and draining water, wherein the acid dye comprises NHF-S0.18%, NHF-S0.038% and NHF-S0.0084%, the dyeing auxiliary agent comprises chelating dispersant of 2g/L, acidic dye of 1.0g/L, softener in a bath of 2.0g/L, ammonium sulfate of 1.5g/L and glacial acetic acid of 0.5 g/L;
and (3) drying cloth: drying the dyed grey cloth at 162-166 deg.c and 25-30 m/min;
shaping a finished product: setting the grey cloth after the dry cloth treatment at 164-168 deg.c and 25-27 m/min and setting assistant including hydrophilic softening agent in 20-30 g/L.
2. The dyeing and finishing process of the bio-based knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the light color is kept for 30min and the dark color is kept for 45min in the dyeing step.
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