KR20050024831A - Cosmetics containing natural herb extract having anti-inflammatory effect - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: A cosmetic composition having anti-inflammatory effect comprising herb medicine extracts is provided, which composition inhibits PGE2 formation that is an inflammation inducing eicosanoid in COX-2 pathway without cytotoxicity and allergy inducement. CONSTITUTION: The cosmetic composition having anti-inflammatory effect comprises 0.001 to 30.0 wt.% of the herb medicine extracts including Trichosantes Kirilowii Maxim., jujube and Phellodendron amurense RUPR., wherein the herb medicine extracts are prepared by mixing Trichosantes Kirilowii Maxim., jujube and Phellodendron amurense RUPR. in a weight ratio of 1:2:4, and extracting the mixture with 1,3-butyleneglycol, purified water, alcohol, ethylacetate, acetone or a mixture thereof.

Description

Cosmetic composition having anti-inflammatory effect containing herbal extracts {COSMETICS CONTAINING NATURAL HERB EXTRACT HAVING ANTI-INFLAMMATORY EFFECT}

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition having an anti-inflammatory effect, and more particularly to a cosmetic composition having an excellent anti-inflammatory and anti-irritant effect by containing herbal extracts of fruit root, jujube and yellow white as active ingredients.

Cosmetics are products used to protect the skin and to beautify and cleanse the skin, but the composition inevitably includes components that are different from the purpose of protecting the skin. Examples of such ingredients include surfactants, preservatives, fragrances, sunscreens, pigments, as well as other ingredients for imparting other benefits and effects, which generally include skin irritation, rashes, It is known to cause various side effects such as edema (Maibach, HI, Contact Dermatitis, 6, 369-404, 1980). In addition, sebum and sweat released from the body, fatty acids in the cosmetic ingredients, higher alcohols, protein components, etc. may be decomposed into a highly toxic substance by the skin flora bacteria present on the skin may cause skin inflammation by these, It is well known that skin irritation is caused by ultraviolet rays from the sun.

Inflammatory reactions occur in five phenomena: feeling of redness, prickling feeling, burning, hotness, swelling, and tissue changes, such as harmful surroundings, such as bacteria. It is a physiological reaction to protect the living body from invasion and mechanical damage of foreign objects. These inflammatory phenomena result in a large increase in various polymorphonuclear leukocytes (PMNs) and immune substances, and these increased cells are treated by secreting various kinds of proteolytic enzymes and cytokines, which are inflammatory cell products. It allows you to defend. However, this action can also cause detrimental damage to adjacent tissue cells and noncellular components. Thus, under proper conditions, normal function is restored after the initial stage of inflammation, but if the irritating stimulant is not lost or continues to be produced, chronic inflammation will result, resulting in even more serious tissue damage.

A key substance in the inflammation-producing process is arachidonic acid, which is converted from cell membrane lipids by an enzyme called phospholipase A2 (PLA2) activated by stimulation, which in turn is a cyclooxygenase (cyclooxygenase) Abbreviated as "COX" or two pathways of lipoxygenase to be metabolized into prostaglandins and leukotrienes, mediating various inflammatory responses (Thomas. R., Rev. Physiol. Biochem. Pharmacol ., 100, 1984).

In recent years, studies have been actively conducted on methods for reducing skin irritation and inflammation, and the results of the previous studies show that tissues may be produced by nerve peptides or stimuli such as substance P (Substance P) secreted from nerve cells. by a kinin (kinins) such as bradykinin which are activated in the plasma, or a variety of cytokines and prostaglandin E ₂ edema formation and vascular expansion, etc. (referred to as prostaglandin E _2, hereinafter "PGE _2") formed by the COX route It is known to be involved and cause inflammation and pain. Accordingly, as anti-inflammatory agents, neuropeptide antagonists such as substance P, bradykinin antagonists, COX inhibitors, and the like have been proposed, but the anti-inflammatory agents known to date have most problems in terms of safety to the skin and stability when incorporated into the product. It is held and use is restricted.

In view of the above problems, the present invention has been conducted to search for anti-inflammatory substances that can solve the anti-inflammatory effect, skin safety, stability problems when formulating cosmetics, excellent anti-inflammatory effect compared to the existing anti-inflammatory substances, while extracting herbal extracts safe for skin It aims at providing the cosmetic composition obtained by applying to cosmetics.

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition having an anti-inflammatory effect containing an extract of fruit root, jujube and yellow white as an active ingredient.

Here, the cosmetic composition preferably contains 0.001 to 30.0% by weight of the extract of fruit root, jujube and yellow white based on the total weight of the composition.

In addition, the extract may be obtained by mixing fruit root, jujube and yellow white in a weight ratio of 1: 2: 4 and extracting with 1,3-butylene glycol, purified water, alcohol, ethyl acetate, acetone, or a mixed solvent thereof. .

In the present invention, the anti-inflammatory effect and skin safety, to solve the stability problems in the formulation of cosmetics and to study the anti-inflammatory substances that can be used in cosmetics, yellow white, chunks, peony, three hundred seconds, yin and yang, Dongguk, Mcmundong, jimo, jujube, pine mushroom Skin safety and anti-inflammatory effects of natural plant extracts such as mugwort, violet, cucumber, bamboo shoot, fruit root, alum, and carrot were evaluated, and as a result, the most safe and effective extract of fruit, jujube and yellow white extract was applied to cosmetics. When applied, it was found that the anti-inflammatory effect is superior to the existing anti-inflammatory substances and safe for the skin to complete the present invention.

Looking specifically for the herbal extracts included as an active ingredient in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, first, the fruit root (瓜 蔞 ris; Trichosanthes kirilowii Maxim) is a vine of perennial herbaceous perennial starch, stigmasterol, β There are cytosterols, saponins and trichosanthines, which are basic proteins. The fatty acids of the seed oil are 67% unsaturated fatty acids and 30% saturated fatty acids, and most of the unsaturated fatty acids are trichoic acid which is considered to be a stereoisomer of ellaostearic acid. Pharmacological experiments show anticancer activity and bacteriostatic action against pathogenic microorganisms including erythrocytes. It is known to shine the face light, to spread the wrinkles of hands and feet, to supply skin mucous membranes and to help exfoliate smoothly.

In addition, jujube ( Zizyphus jujuba Miller) is a deciduous tree of the sea buckthorn, and the fruit contains proteins, sugars, organic acids, mucus, vitamins A, B ₂ , C, potassium, calcium, phosphorus and other minerals such as vitamin B, It contains many ingredients such as sugar. As a nourishing tonic diuretic, it is known to have a sedative and astringent effect, with a beneficial effect, and to improve the color of the face. It also has antioxidant and anti-aging effects, exfoliating skin and anti-allergic effects.

Phellodendri Cortex is a stem bark peeled from the main bark of a rhododendron ( Phellodendron amurense Ruprcht) or other species of the same species. Completely peeled off as it was in the shade. As a component of the yellowish white skin, alkaloid-based ingredients, high-grade substances, steroid-based ingredients, etc., fruit ingredients such as essential oils, myrcene (myrcene) and fatty oils; Etc. Berberine, the main component of yellow and white, has been reported to act on tumor cells in addition to antibacterial, bactericidal and antimicrobial effects and to inhibit its life function. It also has anti-oxidant and anti-aging effects, and is said to boost skin immunity.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is prepared as follows.

First, the herbal medicine used in the present invention is extracted, and 1,3-butylene glycol, purified water, lower alcohol having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, ethyl acetate It can be extracted with acetone or a mixed solvent thereof, and after extraction, it is filtered using a filter. If the mixing ratio of the herbal medicine is out of the above ratio, there is a problem in stability, such as a precipitate occurs at low temperatures when applied to the cosmetic, it is not preferable because the color control of the cosmetic is not good.

The herbal extract thus prepared is included in a ratio of 0.001 to 30% (w / w), preferably 0.01 to 20% (w / w) based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. It is difficult to expect a substantial anti-inflammatory effect in cosmetic compositions containing less than 0.001% herbal extract content, whereas when the herbal extract concentration exceeds 30%, it is difficult to mask the fragrance of the herbal medicine, but rather adversely affects the skin. In addition, it is not preferable because it lowers the economic value compared to the efficacy of the cost increase.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples and Test Examples. However, these Examples etc. are only illustrations of this invention, The scope of the present invention is not limited only to these.

Preparation Example: Preparation of Herbal Extract

Fruits, jujube and yellow white herb were washed with water and finely chopped and mixed in a weight ratio of 1: 2: 4. 5 kg of butylene glycol was added per 1 kg of the herbal medicine complex, followed by extraction at room temperature for 5 to 7 days, and then the extract was first filtered through a 0.5 μm filter and passed through an ion exchange resin. Thereafter, the resultant was filtered again using a 3 μm filter, and the extract passed through the filter was further filtered through a 0.2 μm filter to obtain a final herbal extract (58.3% recovery).

Effect Test Example 1: PGE ₂  Production inhibitory effect test

The following experiments were conducted to investigate the effect of herbal extracts on COX-2 activity (Ref .: Jeffrey, KH, Anglea, SW, Zoe, S., and Rhia CM Intracellular Measurement of Prostaglandin E2: Effect of Anti-inflammatory Drugs on Cyclooxygenase Activity and Prostanoid Expression, Analytical Biochemistry , 1999, 271, 18-28).

After several passages of fibroblasts isolated from human epidermal tissue, 1 × 10 ⁵ cells were placed in 96-well plates and incubated for 24 hours. Incubated for 2 hours by replacing with a medium that does not contain FBS, the herbal extract as a raw material to be evaluated is treated at the concentrations shown in Table 1, and indomethacin (indomethacin) is also treated with a comparative group and cultured for 1 hour. After that, calcium ionophore A23187 (Calcium ionophore A23187) and arachidonic acid were treated at 50 mM to incubate at 37 ° C. for 5 minutes. Dodecyltrimethylammonium bromide was treated for 10 minutes with a final concentration of 0.25% for 10 minutes to hemolyse the cells, and the appropriate amount of supernatant was taken to quantify the amount of PGE ₂ using Enzyme-Linked Immunosorbent Assay (ELISA). By judging the prostaglandin inhibitory effect of the herbal extracts. The results are shown in Table 1 below.

sample Concentration (%) PGE ₂ (pg / well) PGE ₂ increase Inhibition Rate (%) Negative Control 21 Positive control group (+ arachidonic acid) 240 219 Positive control group (+ indomethacin) 35 14 93.6 Herbal extract 0.01 165 144 34.2 0.1 122 101 53.9 0.5 165 144 34.2

As shown in Table 1, the herbal extract shows a high prostaglandin (PGE ₂ ) inhibition rate of up to 53.9%, it can be seen that the anti-inflammatory effect through the induction or inhibition of the COX-2 enzyme is very excellent.

Effect Test Example 2: Anti-inflammatory Effect Test

To investigate the anti-inflammatory effect of herbal extracts, A. Crummey, GP Harper, EA Boyle and FR Mangan.Inhibition of arachidonic acid-induced ear edema as a model for assessing topical anti-inflammatory compound.Agents and Actions, 1987, 20: 69-76.

Each of 35 hairless mice was divided into 7 animals, and both ears were thoroughly washed with ethanol prior to sample application, and measured using a micrometer. A sample group and indomethacin (0.5% or 1.0% herbal extract) were treated. Indomethacin) was divided into a comparison group treated with 1.0% and a control group treated with only arachidonic acid to measure the average ear thickness of the mouse. The sample group treated with the herbal extracts and the comparative group treated with indomethacin were continuously applied with 20 μl of the sample and 20 μl of ethanol to the control group once daily for 4 days. One hour after the last application, ethanol was applied on the left side and arachidonic acid was applied on the right ear by 2 mg / ear. After 1 hour of application, the edema of the ear was repeated three times on both ears using a micrometer. Measured. The left ear of the treated group was used as a control to determine the degree of inflammation caused by the sample itself. The anti-inflammatory effect was determined in the degree of inhibition of edema based on the control group treated with arachidonic acid only, the results are shown in Table 2.

sample density(%) Ear thickness (㎛) % Inhibition Before sample processing After sample processing Sample group Herbal extract 1.0 352 550 17.5 Comparison Indomethacin 1.0 357 497 41.7 Control Arachidonic acid 2 mg / ear 333 573

※ Inhibition rate (%) = (AB) / A * 100

A: average thickness change of control ear

(Thickness of arachidonic acid-treated ear-thickness of arachidonic acid untreated ear)

B: Average thickness change of sample application group ears

(Thickness of the sample processing ear-thickness of the sample non-processing ear)

As shown in Table 2, the 1.0% sample of the herbal extract of the present invention showed an inhibition rate of 17.5%. This figure is about 42% of the anti-inflammatory effect compared to indomethacin, which is an excellent anti-inflammatory effect as a pharmaceutical ingredient. . In addition, when the significant difference was verified by the increase rate of edema, the herbal extract showed an effect having a significant difference of 99% with arachidonic acid.

Effect Test Example 3 3: Cytotoxicity Test

In order to verify primary safety as a raw material used in cosmetics, a method of MTT test by culturing V79-4 cells (Chinese hamster, continuous cell line of lung tissue fibroblasts) to the herbal extract of the present invention (Reference: Mossman T. (1983) Rapid colorimetric assay for cellular growth & survival: application to proliferation & cytotoxicity assays. Journal of Immunological Methods , 65, 55-63) were performed to test the cytotoxicity, the results are shown in Table 3.

sample ^a IC ₅₀ (%, W / V) Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) 0.005 Squalane 0.05 Herbal extract 5.0

^a IC ₅₀ : Inhibitory Concentration 50, 50% cell killing concentration

As shown in Table 3, the IC ₅₀ value of the herbal extract according to the present invention is 5.0, which is not only 1000 times lower in cytotoxicity than sodium lauryl sulfate, but 100 times lower in cytotoxicity than squalane, which is an excellent safety ingredient. It is shown that the safety is excellent.

Effect test example # 4: allergy evaluation (LLNA)

As an experiment to determine whether the herbal extracts according to the present invention are allergenic, an experiment using acetone: olive oil (4: 1) as a carrier medium was selected (Kimber I (1990): Identification of contact allergens). using the murine local lymph node assay, J. Appl. Toxicol., 10 (3), 173-180). That is, herbal extracts were prepared in 20%, 40%, and 60% solutions, 50 μl was applied to both ears of the mouse (Balb / c) for 3 days, and auricular lymph nodes were isolated from the rats. Lymph nodes were pulverized to a single cell state and cultured for 24 hours with the addition of radioisotope ( ³ H-thymidine), and then the amplification degree [cpm] of the cells was measured. The results are shown in Table 4.

sample Lymph node cells (10 ⁷ cells / ml) cpm (average) Amplification Acetone: Olive Oil (4: 1) 1.89 1440 Transportation Herbal Medicine Extract? 20% 2.01 1666 1.2 Herbal Medicine Extract? 40% 1.71 1253 0.9 Herbal Medicine Extract? 60% 1.88 1223 0.8

As shown in Table 4, the herbal extracts according to the present invention were shown to have the highest amplification degree (S.I.) of 3 or less, and have almost no allergic potential.

Effect Test Example 5: Primary irritation test on human body (closed patch)

In order to determine the safety of the sample containing 1.0% herbal extract, 1.0% sodium lauryl sulfate and 10% ethanol, and 1.0% solution of sodium lauryl sulfate and 10% ethanol solution, the human patch test was performed as follows. Through the first stimulation test on the human body was done. Fifty healthy men and women were tested according to CTFA guidelines (The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association. Inc. Washington, D.C., 20036, 1991). That is, 20 µl of the sample and the solution were dropped into a Fin chamber, and it was placed on the back of the human body as a test site and fixed with tape. Subsequently, after patching for 24 hours, the patch was removed, after another 4 hours, the skin reaction at the test site was determined according to the following criteria. The results are shown in Table 5.

<Judge criteria>

-; No erythema or unusual symptoms

±; Slightly redder than the surroundings

+; Significantly redder than the surroundings

+ +; Severe redness and swelling than around

Stimulus level = [{(±) number × 1} + {(+) number × 2} + {(++) number × 3}] / Number of subjects

sample The number of the subjects Judgment result Stimulus ++ + ± - Herbal Extract (1.0%), Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (1%) and Ethanol (10%) 50 - - 5 45 0.10 Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (1%) 50 2 8 12 28 0.68 Ethanol (10%) 50 - - 10 40 0.20

 As shown in Table 5, the herbal extract 1.0% according to the present invention can be seen to greatly alleviate the stimulation of sodium lauryl sulfate 1.0% and ethanol 10%. This result is believed to be due to the excellent anti-inflammatory effect of the herbal extract according to the present invention as shown in the anti-inflammatory effect experiment described above.

Herbal extracts according to the present invention from the above-described effect test examples can be seen that the anti-inflammatory effect is excellent and safe ingredients for the skin.

The following shows an example of preparing a cosmetic composition using the herbal extract according to the present invention, which has excellent anti-inflammatory and anti-irritant effects and is safe for skin.

Example 1: Make-up

To prepare a lotion according to a conventional method with the prescription of the following Table 6.

Raw material name Weight% (w / w) Glycerin dipropylene glycol hyaluronic acid polyoxyethylene cured castor oil polyethylene oleyl ethyl ethanol preservative flavoring pigment herbal extract extract water 5.03.00.50.10.15.00.15 Add to make appropriate quantity 0.001100

Example 2: Essence Preparation

The essence was prepared according to a conventional method with the prescription of the following Table 7.

Raw material name Weight% (w / w) Cetostearyl alcohol Self-emulsifying monostearic acid beeswax squalane isocetyl octanoate dimethyl siloxane stearic acid sorbitan monostearic acid polyethylene glycol glycerin propylene glycol carboxypolymer triethanolamine preservative flavoring pigment extract extract 1.01.00.55.03.00.30.58.04.00.20.220.25 Appropriate quantity added to make 0.011100

Example 3: Lotion Preparation

The lotion was prepared according to a conventional method with the prescription of the following Table 8.

Raw material name Weight% (w / w) Cetostearyl Alcohol Self-emulsifying Monostearic acid Beeswax Stearic Acid Liquid Paraffin Squalane Alkama Demia Oil Isocetyl Octanoate Dimethylsiloxane Monostearic Acid 0.81.00.50.57.05.03.02.00.30.51.24.04.04.00.120.150.25 Appropriate amount added to make 5.0100

Example 4: Cream Preparation

To prepare a cream according to the conventional method with the prescription of Table 9.

Raw material name Weight% (w / w) Cetostearyl alcohol Self-emulsifying monostearic acid lipophilic monostearic acid beeswax liquid paraffin squalane isocetyl octanoate tablets jojoba oil dimethyl siloxane monostearic acid sorbitan monostearic acid polyethylene glycol glycerol propylene glycol betaine xanthan gum triethanolamine antiseptic flavoring extract 3.01.51.50.58.07.04.04.00.31.01.26.04.04.00.060.100.25 Appropriate quantity added to 10.0100

Example 5: Preparation of Gel

Next, the gel was prepared according to the conventional method with the prescription of Table 10.

Raw material name Weight% (w / w) Glycerin Propylene Glycol Ethanol Polyoxyethylene Cured Castor Oil Carboxy Polymer Triethanolamine Preservatives Pigment Herbal Extract Extract 4.04.0100.10.300.30 Appropriate quantity added to be 20.0100

Example 6: Preparation of Ointment

The ointment was prepared according to a conventional method with the prescription of Table 11.

Raw material name Weight% (w / w) Cetostearyl alcohol self-emulsifying monostearate stearic acid beeswax squalane monostearic acid glycerin monostearic acid sorbitan polysorbate 80 glycerin propylene glycol flavoring pigment herbal extract petroleum jelly 2.02.01.04.07.03.01.03,05.04.0 Appropriate quantity added to be 30.0100

As described above, the herbal extract according to the present invention is not only safe for the skin in terms of cytotoxicity and allergic potential, but also inhibits the production of PGE ₂ , an inflammation-inducing eicosanoid of the COX-2 pathway. The anti-inflammatory effect is excellent, and the cosmetic composition which has the excellent anti-inflammatory effect can be obtained by containing this herbal extract as an active ingredient in a cosmetic composition.

Claims (3)

Cosmetic composition having an anti-inflammatory effect, containing extracts of fruit root, jujube and yellow white as active ingredients. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, which contains 0.001 to 30.0% by weight of extracts of fruit root, jujube and yellow white based on the total weight of the composition. The method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the extract is mixed with fruit root, jujube and yellow white in a weight ratio of 1: 2: 4 1,3-butylene glycol, purified water, alcohol, ethyl acetate, acetone, or their Cosmetic composition extracted with a mixed solvent.