KR20050015605A - Formulation containing stabilized ascorbic acid derivative for skin whitening effect - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: Provided is a formulation containing a stabilized ascorbic acid derivative for skin whitening and relieving skin stimulation. Therefore, the formulation is effective for pigmentation such as a freckle and a black spot and thus whitens the skin when applied to the skin topically. CONSTITUTION: The formulation for skin cares is characterized by containing 0.1-99.98 wt.% of hydrophilic liquid carrier, 0.01-10 wt.% of a polymeric thickener, 0.01-50 wt.% of ascorbic acid 2-glucoside, and 0.01-20 wt.% of temperantia. Therefore, when it is applied to the skin topically, it has whitening and moderation effects on the skin.

Description

Formulation containing stabilized ascorbic acid derivative for skin whitening effect

Technical Field

The present invention relates to a topical composition for skin whitening containing ascorbic acid 2-glucoside, which is a stabilized ascorbic acid derivative effective for whitening pigmentation such as blemishes, freckles, and blotch.

Background

L-ascorbic acid is useful for skin because of many biologically useful effects such as skin whitening effect, promoting collagen synthesis in skin dermis layer, restoring skin elasticity, and eliminating harmful oxygen generated by ultraviolet rays. It has also been a subject of much interest in the cosmetics and pharmaceuticals sector. However, L-ascorbic acid is easily oxidized and decomposed under the influence of environmental factors caused by exposure to moisture, light, oxygen, etc. in cosmetics or air, and the activity is rapidly changed as L-ascorbic acid itself or in the preparation. In addition to deterioration, it is a well-known fact that there is a problem that causes yellowing or deodorization. Accordingly, many studies for the stabilization method of L-ascorbic acid have been continued, and for example, stabilization defense mechanisms such as synthesizing various ascorbic acid derivatives or liposomes have been developed. As an agent for stabilizing L-ascorbic acid, Korea Patent Publication No. 92-10272 promotes stabilization of vitamin C using a multiphase emulsion-based cosmetic, and in Korea Patent Application No. 98-53973, 2-hydroxypropyl cyclone Stabilization of water-in-oil type cosmetics using dextrins is carried out by protecting the fatty acid esters of L-ascorbic acid with cyclodextrins in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 55-64511, and Ascork in Korean Patent Publication No. 1999-029279. PH is important for the stability of the binic acid, and stabilization was achieved in the vicinity of pH 6. In Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 5-345714, L-ascorbic acid inorganic acid ester is blended with a specific water-soluble polymer to improve stability. In these patent documents, the stabilizing agent technology of L-ascorbic acid and the like cannot fundamentally prevent the problem of potency preservation and browning caused by poor stability and oxidative degradation as long as water is present. Although a material using high dispersion of L-ascorbic acid in 100% oil has been introduced, in this case, L-ascorbic acid exists as a crystalline phase and has a disadvantage in that it is difficult to absorb skin when applied to the skin. This implies. In addition, the general L- ascorbic acid derivatives are unsatisfactory in terms of their physiological activity and their stability and satisfactory in terms of stability.

In addition, U.S. Patent 4,938,969, U.S. Patent 4,772,591 and European Patent 533667 report that cosmetic compositions containing L-ascorbic acid, which are essential for collagen synthesis, are effective in improving skin wrinkles, sun protection, pigmentation such as spots, freckles, and black mushrooms. have. However, the cosmetic composition containing L-ascorbic acid, which is essential for collagen synthesis, has the effect of improving skin wrinkles, antioxidants, UV protection, pigmentation of blemishes, freckles, and mushrooms, but it is very unstable in heat, light, and oxygen. Exposed to the air or easily oxidized in an aqueous solution, discoloration, odor occurs, such as problems such as stability and safety, there is a problem that the effect is not effective dropping.

In the present invention, ascorbic acid 2-glucoside, an L-ascorbic acid derivative, is used to fundamentally improve the yellowing, deodorization, and preservation of titer, which are problems of L-ascorbic acid, and especially heat, light, oxygen, and the like. It is proposed an application as a topical composition which allows for a very stable application even under compositional emulsification conditions to be exposed.

The present invention relates to a skin care composition effective for skin whitening and skin irritation relief upon topical application to skin. Such compositions comprise (A) about 0.1 to 99.98% by weight of a hydrophilic liquid carrier, (B) about 0.01 to 10% by weight of a polymeric thickener and (C) about 0.01 to 50% by weight of ascorbic acid It contains about 0.001 to 20% by weight of the soothing ingredient of the 2-glucoside (D) composition.

The skin whitening composition contains stabilized ascorbic acid derivatives at high concentrations so that the effectiveness of the vitamin C components in the composition is safely maintained, resulting in an excellent whitening effect on pigmentation such as blemishes, freckles, and black mushrooms. A skin topical composition having an excellent irritant effect is presented.

The compositions of the present invention may consist or consist essentially of the essential and optional ingredients described herein. As used herein, the term `` mainly composed '' means that the composition or component may contain additional components, provided that the additional components do not substantially alter the basic and novel properties of the claimed compositions and methods. All percentages and ratios used herein are parts by weight of the total composition, and all measurements were made at 25 ° C. unless otherwise indicated.

As used herein, the term "local application" means applying the composition of the present invention to the skin surface.

The term ″ dermatologically acceptable ″ as used herein means that the composition or component thereof described is suitable for use on human skin without excessive toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic reactions, and the like.

As used herein, the term ″ safe effective amount ″ is sufficient to induce a positive benefit, preferably a positive skin appearance or touch, independently, including the benefits described herein, but to cause serious side effects. By a sufficiently low, i.e. within the scope of good medical judgment, the amount of a compound, ingredient or composition that provides a reasonable benefit to the risk ratio.

Active agents and other ingredients useful herein may be classified or described herein by their cosmetic and / or therapeutic benefits or their presumed mode of action. However, it is to be understood that the active agents and other ingredients useful herein may in some cases provide one or more cosmetic and / or therapeutic benefits or act through one or more modes of action. Therefore, classification is made here for convenience and not in particular for limiting the ingredients to the stated or listed applications.

The compositions of the present invention are useful for providing fundamental skin improvement for the control of skin pigmentation symptoms such as spots, freckles, blotch and the like after topical application and skin application of the composition. More specifically, the compositions of the present invention are useful for whitening effects of skin pigmentation, including skin drying, heterogeneity associated with skin aging and thus skin pigmentation, photoaging with ultraviolet light and thus skin pigmentation crazy skin troubles. Do. Such skin heterogeneity and pigmentation can be induced or induced by internal and / or external factors. External factors include ultraviolet (eg, due to sun exposure), environmental pollution, wind, heat, low humidity, harsh surfactants, abrasives, and the like. Internal factors include aging with age and other biochemical changes from inside the skin.

″ Control of skin pigmentation symptoms ″ includes prophylactic and / or therapeutic control of one or more of these symptoms (including, for example, prophylactic and / or therapeutic control of symptoms such as blemishes, liver spots, freckles, and brown mushrooms). do.

″ Skin Pigmentation Symptoms ″ includes, but is not limited to, all visible and tactilely recognizable indications and any other macroscopic or microscopic consequences of skin aging. Such symptoms may be induced or induced by internal or external factors such as chronological aging and / or environmental damage. Such symptoms may include wrinkles, skin deposits, cracks, bumps, large pores (such as those associated with appendages such as sweat glands, sebaceous glands or hair follicles), insulting, flaky and / or uneven skin, including fine superficial wrinkles and coarse, deeply folded wrinkles, or Other forms of roughness, loss of skin elasticity (loss and / or inactivation of functional skin elastin), sag (including swelling around the eyes and lower jaw), loss of skin firmness, loss of skin tension, loss of skin recovery from deformation Hyperpigmented skin areas such as discoloration (including the lower part of the eye), staining, paleness, aging spots and freckles, keratin, abnormal differentiation, hyperkeratization, elastosis, collagen breakdown, and the stratum corneum, dermis, epidermis and skin vascular system ( Eg, capillary dilated or arachnoid) and tissues, including but not limited to the development of tissue heterogeneity such as wrinkles, including tissues adjacent to the skin. It is not limited.

It is to be understood that the present invention is not intended to be limited to the regulation of the above-mentioned "symptoms of skin pigmentation" caused by mechanisms associated with skin pigmentation, but to include the control of these symptoms independent of the mechanism of origin.

The present invention is particularly useful for therapeutically controlling the inhomogeneity of visible and / or tactile heterogeneity in mammalian skin, including inhomogeneity in particular in skin tissue color. For example, the apparent diameter of the pores decreases, the apparent height of the tissue closest to the pore opening approximates the height of the intertracheal skin, the skin tone and / or color become more uniform, and / or the length, depth of the wrinkle or wound And / or other diameters are reduced.

The composition contains a skin whitening component of Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside in a thickened hydrophilic carrier, giving a whitening effect on pigmentation such as spots, blotch, freckles, and liver spots. It contains ingredients to inhibit the potential sensitization caused by the high content of ascorbic acid and at the same time has an excellent effect on the soothing effects of UV-induced heat erythema, acne, skin irritation, and sensitized skin. The present invention may also contain various optional ingredients. The essential and preferred components of the composition and the preparation and use of the composition are described in detail below:

1. Hydrophilic Liquid Carrier

The composition of the present invention comprises a hydrophilic liquid carrier, such as water or other hydrophilic diluent, from about 0.1 to about 99.98 weight percent, preferably from about 5 to about 95 weight percent, more preferably from about 20 to about 90 weight percent, based on the composition. It contains. Thus, the hydrophilic liquid carrier may contain water or a combination of water and one or more water soluble or dispersible ingredients. Hydrophilic liquid carriers containing water are preferred.

The hydrophilic liquid carrier component may contain any dermatologically acceptable carrier that can incorporate essential thickeners, any other substances, and allow ascorbic acid 2-glucoside and any components to be delivered to the skin at appropriate concentrations. The hydrophilic liquid carrier thus allows the ascorbic acid 2-glucoside to be applied to the selected target at a suitable concentration and evenly distributed.

The carrier may contain one or more dermatologically acceptable semisolid or liquid fillers, diluents, solvents, extenders, and the like. The liquid carrier may also contain gel material. Preferred carriers are substantially liquid. The carrier itself may be inert or possess a dermatological benefit by itself.

The concentration of the hydrophilic liquid carrier may vary depending on the carrier selected and the intended concentration of the required and optional ingredients.

Suitable hydrophilic carriers include known carriers that are conventionally or otherwise dermatologically acceptable. The carrier must also be physically or chemically compatible with the essential ingredients described herein and must not unduly impair stability, efficacy or other use advantages with respect to the compositions of the present invention. Preferred components of the composition of the present invention should be able to be mixed with each other in such a way that there is no interaction that substantially reduces the efficacy of the composition under normal use conditions.

The type of hydrophilic carrier used in the present invention depends on the type of product type desired for the composition. Topical compositions useful in the present invention can be prepared in various types of products known in the art. This includes, but is not limited to, lotions, creams, gels, sprays, pastes, powders, mousses, and cosmetics (such as semi-solid or liquid makeup, foundations, eye makeup, dyed or undyed lip treatments, etc.) It doesn't happen. Such product types may contain, but are not limited to, various types of carriers including solutions, aerosols, emulsions, gels and liposomes.

Preferred hydrophilic carriers may contain a dermatologically acceptable, non-aqueous hydrophilic diluent. Non-limiting examples of hydrophilic diluents include organic hydrophilic diluents such as lower monohydric alcohols (e.g. C ₁ -C ₄ ) and low molecular weight glycols and propylene glycols, polyethylene glycols (e.g. molecular weight 200-600 g / mole), polypropylene glycols ( Eg molecular weight 425-2025 g / mole), glycerol, butylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, sorbitol ester, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, ethanol, isopropanol, sorbitol ester, butanediol, ether Organic hydrophilic diluents such as polyols, including propanol, ethoxylated ethers, propoxylated ethers and combinations thereof.

As described below, the hydrophilic liquid carrier may contain various components that are water soluble or water miscible, capable of one or more skin conditioning or skin treatment functions. The composition, which is thickened and contains a hydrophilic liquid carrier component containing ascorbic acid 2-glucoside, may contain a hydrophobic phase resulting in an emulsion of the emulsion. Compositions having both hydrophilic and hydrophobic phases are also described below.

2. Polymerizable Thickener

The composition of the present invention also contains a polymerizable thickener. The polymeric thickener comprises from about 0.01 to about 10 weight percent of the composition, preferably from about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent, more preferably from about 0.25 to about 3 weight percent. The polymerizable thickener serves to increase the viscosity of the hydrophilic liquid carrier to help disperse or suspend ascorbic acid 2-glucoside, and other organic and inorganic active ingredients in the hydrophilic liquid carrier. In addition, the polymerizable thickener improves the aesthetics of the composition, such as, for example, good feel, non-lipidity, and easy development.

Examples of thickeners suitable for use in the present compositions are as follows, and thickeners other than those mentioned below may also be used.

A. Carboxylic Acid Polymer

B. Crosslinked Polyacrylate Polymers

C. Polyacrylamide Polymer

D. Polysaccharides

E. Crosslinked Vinyl Ether / Maleic Anhydride Copolymer

F. Crosslinked Poly (N-Vinylpyrrolidone)

3. Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside

The compositions of the present invention also essentially thicken about 0.01 to about 50 weight percent of the composition, preferably about 0.01 to about 30 weight percent, more preferably about 0.1 to about 15 weight percent of ascorbic acid 2-glucoside. Through a hydrophilic carrier.

If ascorbic acid 2-glucoside is contained in more than 50% may be rather irritating to sensitive skin, it is preferable in terms of the function of the skin irritation sedation effect when used in a content of 50% or less.

In general, L-ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) of formula (1) is very unstable in heat, light, oxygen, etc., and is exposed to the atmosphere or easily oxidized in aqueous solution, resulting in low titer, discoloration, and discoloration. There is a problem, and there are restrictions on the preparation of the skin application composition.

Formula (1): L-ascorbic acid

In contrast, ascorbic acid 2-glucoside of formula (2) has a structure in which one molecule of glucose is glucoside-bonded to the second hydroxyl group of vitamin C, which plays a role necessary for redox. Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside is prepared by transferring starch-derived glocos to the hydroxyl group of vitamin C using a microbial sugar transfer enzyme.

Formula (2): Ascorbic Acid 2-Glucoside

L-ascorbic acid is involved in collagen synthesis and promotes collagen synthesis. Polypeptide chains of collagen fibers have telopeptides at both ends, which are synthesized in granular internal reticulum (rER) triple helix) to form procollagen molecules, which are transferred to the Golgi apparatus, packed into secretory vesicles, and secreted by exocytosis. The division of telopeptide by the enzyme of the cell produces tropocollagen molecules, and these divided molecules are combined in the extracellular matrix into collagen fibers. Tropocollagen is the main amino acid consisting of the polypeptide α-chain (Glycin), proline (Hydroxyproline) and hydroxyproline (Hydroxyprolin) of the collagen Triple helix structure is formed. As such, it accounts for about 10% of the hydroxyproline collagen polypeptide (Polypeptide), which is important for collagen synthesis, and is present only in animals. Hydroxyprolin is hydrolyzed by prolyl hydroxylase in the presence of oxygen (O ₂ ) in proline and alpha-ketoglutarate. It is biosynthesized by (Hydroxylation). During this hydroxylation process, L-ascorbic acid acts as a co-factor and hydroxyproline (Hydroxyprolin) must be present. In other words, by promoting the activity of L-ascorbic acid prolyl hydroxylase (Prolyl hydroxylase) to promote the biosynthesis of hydroxyproline (Hdroxyprolin) by promoting collagen biosynthesis of triple helix structure to improve skin wrinkles will be. The prolyl hydroxylase is inhibited by UVA, and L-ascorbic acid also has a UV blocking function, which blocks the inhibition of prolyl hydroxylase by UVA. It also has the effect.

The sunscreen effect by L-ascorbic acid has a different blocking effect than conventional sunscreens because there is no area for absorption of L-ascorbic acid on the spectrum lines of UVA and UVB. Vitamin C is more resistant to UVA than UVB and reduces erythema and edema caused by UVB. Vitamin C, which has various biological functions, is stored once it enters the skin, so it can be maintained for a long time even after discontinuing use.

L-ascorbic acid also acts as a potent bio-oxidant in skin, blood and other tissues, a sugar-like structure that is easily oxidized in the form of Dehydro-L-ascorbic acid by receiving two electrons (Sugarlike structure) has an antioxidant effect that blocks the cause of skin aging by preventing the oxidizing or denaturing of biological components such as proteins, nucleic acids and membrane lipids caused by highly reactive free radicals, free radicals and peroxides in vivo .

In addition, L-ascorbic acid has a pigmentation inhibitory effect, which has a melanin production inhibitory effect closely related to pigmentation. Vitamin C has the effect of improving the pigmentation caused by melanin by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase, which is important for melanin formation, and reducing the oxidized melanin formed by the oxidation process to reduce melanin.

In addition, the physiological activity of L-ascorbic acid varies, and it is involved in the metabolism of folic acid and amino acids in vivo, and plays a very important role in the immune system system to help the bacterial action of white blood cells, and during the development of infection. It promotes the movement of inhibits infection and protects the cell membrane of leukocytes from free radicals, and increases the biosynthesis of interferon, a virus growth inhibitor, thereby increasing the body's resistance to various infectious diseases. This L-ascorbic acid biosynthesizes L-ascorbic acid from glucose in most animals. Since humans lack the enzymes needed to convert glucose from L-ascorbic acid, they cannot be biosynthesized and must be supplied from the outside. In addition, it is very sensitive to heat, light, moisture, and oxygen, so it is unstable and water-soluble, and has a lower storage capacity than fat-soluble vitamins. Therefore, it is necessary to continue to provide food and other methods, and in case of deficiency, the clinical symptoms are various skin protection, such as wrinkles, fatigue, rough skin, resistance to infection, and capillary bleeding due to decreased collagen biosynthesis. Deterioration in function leads to skin lesions, and long-term deficiencies can lead to serious diseases such as scurvy. Therefore, a suitable daily dose should be taken and a substance such as a cosmetic as a percutaneous absorbent containing vitamin C suitable for skin protection should be used.

Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside exhibits the above-mentioned efficacy of L-ascorbic acid as it is and has high stability to L-ascorbic acid. That is, ascorbic acid 2-glucoside is a form in which the second hydroxyl group of vitamin C is blocked by one molecule of glucose, and thus does not exhibit redox. Therefore, compared with the conventional vitamin C, the stability in the aqueous solution is very high and extremely stable against the oxidative conditions in which heat and metal ions are present. In addition, ascorbic acid 2-glucoside is hydrolyzed by glucosidase present in each tissue in vivo, such as the small intestine and skin, to be released into individual glucose and vitamin C, and to exert physiological activity as vitamin C in cellular tissues. Turned out.

4. Soothing Ingredients

The composition of the present invention also contains about 0.1 to about 20 weight percent of the composition, preferably about 0.1 to about 15 weight percent of the soothing ingredient, resulting in skin application upon high content of ascorbic acid 2-glucoside. In addition to inhibiting potential skin problems, it also provides a soothing effect on sensitive and sensitive skin.

Among the soothing ingredients, natural ingredients can be obtained as extracts that are physically or chemically appropriately extracted from natural sources such as plants, fungi and microbial by-products, and typical examples are candelilla wax, alpha bisabolol, aloe vera, manzista, gugal. , Cola extract, seaweed extract, allantoin, lavender, chamomile, tea tree and the like.

Soothing ingredients can be used without being limited to the ingredients mentioned above.

5. Optional Ingredient

In addition to the four main classes of components of the liquid carrier, polymerizable thickener, ascorbic acid 2-glucoside, and soothing ingredients specified above, the present invention may simultaneously contain other compositions suitable for the purposes of the present invention, and further contain Representative classifications of possible components are as follows.

Skin protection and actives

The present invention may contain one or more skin protection and active agents in a proportion of 0.1% to 10% by weight of the total composition, and representative skin protection and active agents include niacinamide, retinol, retinal, retinyl palmitate, retinyl pro Pioneates, tocophenols and derivatives, and mixtures thereof. Skin protection and active agents are useful for helping to regenerate and protect the skin from skin damage caused by harmful environments such as skin aging and UV irradiation.

Whitening ingredients

The present invention may contain one or more skin whitening components in a ratio of 0.1% to 10% by weight of the total composition, and representative skin whitening components include biloba extract, licorice extract, kojic acid, arbutin and the like.

Sunscreen

The present invention may contain one or more sunscreen ingredients in a proportion of 0.5% to 20% by weight of the total composition, and representative sunscreens include dioxybenzene, methylanthranilate, benzophenone-4, octylsalicylate, Triethanolamine salicylate, synoxate, oxybenzone, octocrylene, digaloyltrioleate, paradimethyl benzoic acid amyl, diethanolamine paramethoxycinnamate, octylmethoxycinnamate, paraaminobenzoic acid, glyceryl pava , Ethyldihydroxypropyl pava, octyldimethylpaba, 2-phenylbenzoimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, homosalate, drometrizole, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, octyltrizone, 3- (4-methyl Benzylidene) -campa and the like.

The exact amount of sunscreen or sunscreen agent used will vary depending on the sunscreen chosen and the desired sun protection index (SPF).

Humectants and moisturizers

Compositions of the present invention may also include one or more humectants or humectants. A wide range of such materials can be applied, each of about 0.1% to about 20% by weight, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 10% by weight and most preferably from about 1% to about 5% by weight May exist. Non-limiting examples of wetting agents include guanidine; Glycolic acid and glycolate salts (eg, ammonium and quaternary alkyl ammonium); Lactic acid and lactate salts (eg, ammonium and quaternary alkyl ammonium); Various forms of aloe vera (eg, aloe vera gel); Polyhydroxy alcohols (eg, sorbitol, glycerol, hexanetriol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, etc.); Polyethylene glycol; Sugars and starches; Sugar and starch derivatives (eg, alkoxylated glucose); Hyaluronic acid; Lactamide monoethanolamine; A material selected from the group consisting of acetamide monoethanolamine and mixtures thereof.

6. Product form

As discussed in the heading ″ Hydrophilic Liquid Carrier ″, the type of carrier used in the present invention depends on the type of product form desired for the composition. However, the product form must utilize at least one hydrophilic liquid carrier or phase. Representative examples of product forms that may be formulated with the compositions of the present invention include lotions and creams, cleansing compositions, and foundations. These product forms are also described as follows.

As mentioned, the topical compositions of the present invention, which are not limited to lotions and creams, may contain dermatologically acceptable hydrophobic ingredients. A wide range of suitable hydrophobic components are known and can be used herein. See Sagarin, Cosmetics, Science and Technology, 2nd edition, Vol. 1, pp 32-43 (1972), include various examples of materials suitable as hydrophobic components.

Lotions and creams according to the present invention generally contain a solution carrier system and one or more hydrophobic ingredients. Lotions typically range from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 2% to about 10% of a hydrophobic component; And from about 50% to about 90%, preferably from about 60% to about 80% of water. Creams typically contain from about 2% to about 50%, preferably from about 3% to about 20% hydrophobic component; And about 45% to about 85%, preferably about 50% to about 75% of water.

The present invention useful as a cleansing composition is formulated with a suitable carrier, for example as described above, and preferably contains a safe effective amount of one or more dermatologically acceptable surfactants for cleansing. Preferred compositions contain about 1% to about 90%, more preferably about 5% to about 10% of a dermatologically acceptable surfactant. Surfactants are suitably selected from anionic, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and ampholytic surfactants, and mixtures of these surfactants. Such surfactants are well known to those skilled in the cleaning arts. Non-limiting examples of possible surfactants include isocetate-20, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium methyl oleoyl taurate, sodium lauryl sulfate, and the like. The cleaning composition may optionally contain other materials conventionally used in the cleaning composition at a level where technology is proven.

As used herein, the term ″ foundation ″ refers to liquid, semi-liquid, or semi-solid skin cosmetics including but not limited to lotions, creams, gels, pastes, and the like. Foundations are typically used on entire areas of the skin, such as the face, to provide a distinctive appearance. Foundation is typically used to provide an attachment base for color cosmetics such as rouge, cheek paper, and the like and conceal and soften skin defects in the appearance of the skin as well. The foundation of the present invention includes a dermatologically acceptable carrier for the essential particulate material and may include conventional ingredients such as oils, colorants, pigments, emollients, fragrances, waxes, stabilizers and the like.

Compositions of the present invention are generally prepared by conventional methods, such as those known in the art for preparing topical compositions. Such methods typically involve mixing components in a relatively uniform state in one or more steps with or without performing such as heating, cooling, vacuum application, and the like.

Typically, one or more of the components described above may be mixed with the charged particulate material in any order via conventional methods. The resulting mixture is then adjusted to the desired pH range of about 4 to about 8.5. Preferably, the components are first mixed together in any order. The charged particulate material is then adjusted to the desired pH range of about 4 to about 8.5 and then added to the mixture.

The following examples describe and demonstrate in more detail embodiments that are within the scope of the present invention. The examples are illustrative only and not intended to limit the invention, and many modifications are possible without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.

Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-2

Skin whitening and soothing compositions are prepared from the following ingredients using conventional formulation techniques of emulsions.

Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Phase A water to 100 ¹ to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 Disodium EDTA 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 Carbopol 954 0.55 0.55 0.55 0.55 0.55 0.55 Sorbitan Monostearate / Sucrose Cocoate 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Phase B Isopropyl Isostearate 1.33 1.33 1.33 1.33 1.33 1.33 Sugar fatty acid ester ² 0.67 0.67 0.67 0.67 0.67 0.67 Isohexadecane 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 PEG-100 Stearate 0.11 0.11 0.11 0.11 0.11 0.11 Betaine 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 - Phase C NaOH 0.30 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Phase D water 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside 2.00 3.00 4.00 5.00 - - L-ascorbic acid - - - - 3.00 - Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate - - - - - 3.00 glycerin 7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 Phase E water 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Dexpanthenol 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Niacinamide 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Allantoin 1.5 - 3.00 1.5 3.00 - Aloe vera 1.5 3.00 - 1.5 - 3.00 Phase F Dimethicone 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00

¹ . Represents the water component of phase A, the sum of all components of all other phases except the water component of phase A minus 100, that is, the water component of phase A = 100 − (sum of all components of other phases)

² . C1-C30 monoesters or polyesters of sugars and one or more carboxylic acid moieties as described herein, preferably having a degree of esterification of 7-8 and fatty acid moieties being C18 mono- and / or di-substituted and behenic Sucrose polyesters having a molar ratio of unsaturated: behenic 1: 7 to 3: 5, more preferably octaester of sucrose with about 7 Behen fatty acid moieties and about 1 oleic acid moiety, For example sucrose esters of cottonseed fatty acids, for example SEFA cotonates.

For Examples 1-4 above and 1-2 for comparison: First, Phase A components in a suitable sized container are mixed (using a propeller type mixer) and heated to 65-80 ° C. Mix phase B components in separate vessel and heat to 65-80 ° C. Add phase B to phase A while continuing mixing at 60-75 ° C. Thereafter, phase C is added to the batch mixture of phases A / B with continued mixing. Phase C component neutralizes the mixture. Cool to 45 ° C. In a separate container, phase D is mixed until uniform and then added to the batch mixture of phases A / B / C with continued mixing. The phase E components are mixed with continued mixing at 45 ° C. and then added to the batch mixture of phases A-D with continued mixing. Phase F component is then added to the batch mixture of A-E and then cooled to about 35 ° C. Mixing continues until the resulting batch mixture is homogeneous.

The titer of ascorbic acid and the results of high temperature stability check for each of the compositions obtained in Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Examples 1 to 2 are shown in the following chart.

Activity test and high temperature stability check result of ascorbic acid

Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 High Temperature Stability (40 ℃ 3 Weeks) ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ Residual titer of L-ascorbic acid (4 weeks at 40 ° C) 98% 98.5% 98% 97.5% 15% 14% High temperature discoloration degree (40 degrees Celsius four weeks progress) ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ X X Usability ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ ○ ○

1) High temperature stability: Visual observation of emulsion stability under high temperature conditions.

 X: severely separated layer △: slightly separated layer ○: slightly separated layer ◎: no separated layer

2) L-ascorbic acid residual titer

Analysis was performed using HPLC.

3) High temperature discoloration: Visual observation of color discoloration under high temperature conditions.

 X: Very yellowing △: Very yellowing ○: Some yellowing ◎: No yellowing

4) Usability: The usability was checked by selecting 20 people including the inventor.

 X: Very sticky and shiny △: Sticky but not shiny

 ◎ good absorption without stickiness and shine

In the above stability evaluation results, the residual ratio of Example 1-4 was very high as 97.5%, but in Comparative Example 1-2, the residual ratio was very low, and the browning phenomenon of the Comparative Example was very severe compared to the Example. This resulted in excellent stability of the compositions of Examples 1-4 using ascorbic acid 2-glucoside compared to the compositions of Comparative Examples 1 and 2 using L-ascorbic acid and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, respectively.

Inhibitory Effect of Tyrosinase Activity on Vitamin C

Experiment method

First, the substrate tyrosine was dissolved in 0.05 M sodium phosphate buffer (pH 6.8) to prepare a 0.1 mg / ml solution (substrate), and the compositions of Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-2 used in the present invention were prepared. Each was diluted to different concentrations to prepare a sample solution. 0.5 ml of the substrate solution was added to a test tube, 0.5 ml of the sample solution was added thereto, and the resultant was reacted for 10 minutes in a 37 ° C. thermostat. Next, it was reacted again for 10 minutes in a 37 ℃ thermostat. After stopping the reaction by placing the test tube containing the reaction solution on ice and quenching the absorbance at 475 nm with a spectrophotometer to calculate the inhibition rate of tyrosinase activity according to the following equation 1, the results are shown in the following table . At this time, using the 0.5ml buffer solution instead of the sample solution as a control to measure the absorbance by the same method was used to calculate the tyrosinase activity inhibitory ability.

Inhibitory activity of tyrosinase activity

Experimental concentration (㎍ / ml) Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 800 32.3% 34.7% 37.9% 41.2% 15.4% 22.3% 1600 56.8% 59.5% 63.2% 66.7% 26.3% 37.2% 2400 73.8% 75.5% 78.2% 82.5% 41.2% 51.3% 3200 92.5% 93.7% 97.2% 98.5% 59.2% 73.2%

In the above evaluation of tyrosinase activity inhibitory activity, the composition of Examples 1-4 using ascorbic acid 2-glucoside was superior to the compositions of Comparative Examples 1 and 2 using L-ascorbic acid and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, respectively. The result of the inhibitory effect was shown, and the whitening property was confirmed through this.

Inhibitory Effect of Vitamin C on Melanin Production

Experiment method

5-6 ml of DMEM medium (4.5 g of glucose, 10% of serum, 1% of antibiotics) was placed in a 25 cm2 T-flask, and then inoculated with a mouse-derived B-16 melanoma (ATCC CRL 6323) cell line in cryopreservation. Incubated for 24 hours at 37 ℃ temperature, 5% CO ₂ conditions, and then treated with 0.05% trypsin containing 0.02% EDTA to isolate the cells, incubated in 25 cm 2 T-flask and incubated for 48 hours. As a result, the cell number obtained was 5.76 10 6 cells per flask. Here, the compositions of Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-2 used in the present invention were each diluted in various concentrations in DMEM medium, treated with cultured melanoma cells, and cultured at 37 ° C. for 5 days. After incubation, all of the medium was removed, and the cells were separated by treatment with 1 ml of saline-phosphate buffer (PBS) containing 0.02% EDTA and 0.05% trypsin, followed by centrifugation for 5 minutes to collect only cells. The collected cells were treated with 5% trichloroacetate (TCA), stirred, and centrifuged to wash the precipitated melanin with saline-phosphate buffer. Subsequently, 1N NaOH was dissolved and dissolved in the precipitated melanin, the absorbance was measured at 475 nm, and the melanin concentration was determined from the standard concentration curve of the synthetic melanin (Sigma).

Melanin production inhibitory effect

Experimental concentration (㎍ / ml) Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 800 42.5% 44.9% 47.8% 51.2% 25.1% 32.5% 1600 67.8% 70.5% 73.8% 76.7% 37.3% 45.2% 2400 83.8% 85.8% 88.2% 88.5% 51.3% 59.3% 3200 95.5% 96.7% 98.2% 99.5% 69.3% 78.2%

For the composition of Example 1-4 using ascorbic acid 2-glucoside in the above melanin production inhibitory evaluation results compared to the composition of Comparative Examples 1 and 2 using L-ascorbic acid and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, respectively The result of the inhibitory effect was shown, and this could confirm the more effective whitening properties.

Human closed patch test

The human patch test is widely used as a method to search for primary irritants (Matsumura et al , 1995), but dermatologically, it refers to a diagnostic patch test for the diagnosis of allergic contact dermatitis. do.

In the back of each healthy adult male and female, 40 μl was put in a kit (Finn chamber), which was fixed to the skin with a tape (scanpore tape). After 24 hours it was removed from the skin and after 4 hours the results were determined. The degree of erythema and edema is indicated numerically. The criteria for acceptance were in accordance with the criteria of the International Contact Dermatitis Research Group (ICDRG) (Wooding et al , 1967; Rietschell, 1982; Fischer & Maibach, 1984; Aberer et al , 1993).

(Criteria)

0 = no redness

1 = erythema

2 = redness and papules

3 = redness, papules and vesicles

4 = severe edema and vesicles

Stimulus (%) = (responsiveness of positive response / response of self population) × 100

Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Stimulus of closed patch test (%) 2.23 1.51 1.75 2.02 5.67 4.35

Effect on Skin Stability

As a result of measuring the stimulus (%) of the closed patch test for 60 volunteers for each of the compositions of Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-2, the stimulus degree of Examples 1-4 was 2.23% at maximum. It appears that the skin stability effect by the composition of the present invention is excellent.

In Comparative Examples 1 and 2, the irritation degree (%) of the closed patch test was larger than that of the example, indicating that the skin stability was relatively lowered.

It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various changes and modifications can be made without departing from the present invention by describing the individual embodiments through the embodiments of the present invention. All modifications outside the scope of the invention will be protected within the scope of the appended claims.

The present invention provides a skin whitening composition containing ascorbic acid 2-glucoside, so that the effectiveness of the vitamin C component in the composition is safely maintained, so that the whitening effect on pigmentation such as blemishes, freckles, and black mushrooms is excellent and at the same time a soothing ingredient The application to the skin topical composition excellent in the skin irritation relief effect by this is proposed.

Claims (5)

Skin protection composition which provides the effect of skin whitening and soothing when applying topical skin, characterized by containing the following composition: (A) about 0.1 to 99.98% by weight of the hydrophilic liquid carrier, (B) about 0.01 to 10% by weight of polymerizable thickener in the composition (C) about 0.01 to 50% by weight of ascorbic acid 2-glucoside of the composition (D) about 0.01-20% by weight of the soothing ingredient of the composition The polymerizable thickener of claim 1 wherein the polymerizable thickener is a carboxylic acid polymer, a crosslinked polyacrylate polymer, a polyacrylamide polymer, an acrylate / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, a crosslinked alkyl vinyl ether and a maleic anhydride copolymer. , Crosslinked poly (N-vinylpyrrolidone), polysaccharides and mixtures thereof. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the at least one dermatologically active agent is niacinamide, retinol, retinal, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate at a ratio of 0.1% to 10% by weight of the total composition. , Tocophenols and derivatives and mixtures thereof. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the one or more skin lightening ingredients are selected from the group consisting of mulberry extract, licorice extract, kojic acid, arbutin and mixtures thereof in a ratio of 0.1% to 10% by weight of the total composition. Composition The method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein at least one of the sunscreen ingredients is dioxybenzene, methylanthranilate, benzophenone-4, octylsalicylate in a proportion of 0.5% to 10.0% by weight of the total composition. , Triethanolamine salicylate, synoxate, oxybenzone, octocrylene, digaloyltrioleate, paradimethyl benzoic acid amyl, diethanolamine paramethoxycinnamate, octylmethoxycinnamate, paraaminobenzoic acid, glyceryl Pava, ethyldihydroxypropyl pava, octyldimethylmethyl, 2-phenylbenzoimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, homosalate, drometrizole, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, octyltrizone, 3- (4- Composition selected from the group consisting of methylbenzylidene) -campa and mixtures thereof