KR100364314B1 - Use of unfermented honey as a depigmenting agent - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to the use of unfermented molasses in cosmetic compositions for the treatment of skin or hair decolorants and / or bleaches, and / or pigment defects of the skin.

The present invention also relates to a method for decolorizing and / or lustering skin or hair consisting of applying a composition containing unfermented molasses to the skin or hair.

Description

Use of unfermented molasses as a bleaching agent {USE OF UNFERMENTED HONEY AS A DEPIGMENTING AGENT}

The present invention relates to the use of unfermented molasses in the cosmetic composition or for the preparation of dermatological compositions for the treatment of skin or hair decolorants and / or bleaches and / or pigmented defects of the skin. The present invention also relates to a method of bleaching and / or lustering makeup consisting of applying a composition containing unfermented molasses to the skin or hair.

The color of human skin is a function of various factors, in particular season, race and sex and is primarily determined by the nature and concentration of melanin produced by melanocytes. In addition, in the various periods in which they live, some people become darker and / or bleed on the skin, and more particularly on the hands, causing uneven appearance on the skin. The drawback is also due to the high concentration of melanin in keratin cells located on the surface of the skin.

Similarly, the color of the hair anywhere on the scalp and body is maintained; When hair is black, some people want to make it brighter. This is of particular interest in cases where the body's hair is less visible when it is brighter than black.

The mechanisms of skin and hair pigmentation formation, such as melanin formation, are particularly complex and schematic, involving the following main steps:

Tyrosine → Dopa → Dopaquinone → Dopachrome → Melanin

Tyrosinase (monophenol dihydroxyphenylalanine: oxygen oxidoreductase EC 1.14.18.1) is an essential enzyme involved in this reaction sequence. In particular, the reaction for converting tyrosine to dopa (dihydrophenylalanine) by hydrolysis activity and the reaction for converting dopa to dopaquinone by oxidase activity are promoted. The tyrosine acts only in its maturation state, under the action of any biological factor.

Where melanogenesis occurs, if a substance acts directly on the viability of epithelial melanin, and / or a substance interferes with one of the stages of melanin biosynthesis, or inhibits one of the enzymes involved in melanogenesis Or by intercalating itself as a structural analog of one of the compounds in the melanin synthetic chain, causing the chain to block and thus decolorizing.

The materials most commonly used as bleaching agents are more particularly hydroquinones and their derivatives, in particular their ethers such as hydroquinone monomethyl ethers and monoethyl ethers. Although having any efficacy, the compound has unfortunately side effects due to its toxicity, making it difficult or even dangerous to use. The reason for the toxicity is that by killing the cells, they intervene in the basic mechanisms of melanogenesis and then interfere with their biological environment, eventually removing them from the skin, producing toxins.

Thus, hydroquinone is a very irritating and cytotoxic compound for melanocytes, so full or partial substitution has been considered by many nomenclature.

Thus, the substance acts synergistically by inhibiting its activation, thereby not interfering with the mechanism of melanin production on tyrosinase, resulting in much less toxicity.

Local hyperpigmentation due to melanocyte hyperactivity, such as idiopathic melanoma that occurs during pregnancy ('pregnancy masks' or blemishes) or estrone / progestogen contraception, localized hyperpigmentation due to benign melanocyte proliferation, and photosensitivity And for the purpose of treating hyperactivity scars and hyperactivity, such as senile pigment defects known as actinic sunspots, accidental over-pigmentation or depigmentation, which may be the result of any leukemia such as alum. Topical bleaching materials without sought were pursued. In the latter case (examples of scars where the skin appears pale, and half white) there is no possibility of recoloring the damaged skin, and the remaining normal skin is discolored, giving a uniform white color throughout the skin.

Thus, there is a need for new bleaches for human skin and hair that are flawless and whose activity is more potent than known agents, such as non-irritating, non-toxic and / or allergic to the skin, and stable in the composition.

Applicants have unexpectedly found that unfermented molasses has decolorizing activity without cytotoxicity, even at low concentrations.

Molasses is commonly used for moisturizing and sterilization or for the treatment of wounds, ulcers or burns. It is also known from FR A 2 751 537 as an epidermal deprivation accelerator, in particular to improve skin coloration and treat wrinkles. However, there is no suggestion that molasses has decolorizing activity by directly acting on melanin production.

The present invention therefore provides the use of unfermented molasses in cosmetic compositions for the treatment of bleaches and / or bleaching agents for skin or hair, and / or pigmentation of the skin.

The present invention also provides the use of unfermented molasses for the preparation of dermatological compositions for the purpose of the treatment of discoloration and / or gloss of skin or hair, and / or pigment defects of the skin.

For the purposes of the present invention, unfermented molasses is molasses that does not contain hydroxy acids, as opposed to molasses extracts that are fermentation products and contain hydroxy acids.

The molasses used in the present invention consists of a mixture of glucose, levulose, dextrin, sucrose, protein and water, and the level of the constituents varies depending on the source of wheat sugar. Typically, wheat sugar may contain 72-75% of a mixture of glucose and levulose, 15% water, 10% dextrin, 2.5% sucrose and 1% protein.

The source of molasses can be arbitrary. In particular acacia molasses, lime molasses, mountain molasses, heat molasses, or molasses from an orange flower or any other flower. However, in the present invention, the use of acacia molasses is preferred.

The amount of molasses used according to the invention is for example from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and preferably from 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total amount of the composition.

The present invention similarly relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of depigmentation and / or gloss of skin or hair, and / or pigmented defects of the skin, consisting of applying a composition containing unfermented molasses to the skin or hair.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing molasses are suitable for topical use and therefore contain cosmetic or dermatologically acceptable media, ie media compatible with the skin or hair. All pharmaceutical forms commonly used for topical use, in particular aqueous or aqueous alcoholic solutions, oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple emulsions, aqueous gels, liquids, pastes or solid anhydrous products, oils dispersed in the aqueous phase with the aid of globules It is possible for the globules to be present in the form of, wherein the globules are polymeric nanoparticles such as nanospheres and nanocapsules or more preferably fatty vesicles in ionic and / or nonionic form.

The composition may be somewhat fluid and has the appearance of a white or colored cream, pomade, milk, lotion, emulsion, paste or mousse. It can be applied to the skin or hair in some form in aerosol form. It may also be present in solid form and, for example, in stick form. It can be used as a cosmetic and / or makeup product. It may also be present in the form of a shampoo or conditioner, powder or pencil.

Conveniently, the compositions according to the invention can also be used in the fields of aesthetics and cosmetics, with conventional auxiliaries such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active ingredients, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, fragrances, fillers, filters, pigments, It may contain odor absorbers and colorants. The amount of the various adjuvants is typically used in the art and is, for example, from 0.01 to 20% relative to the total weight of the composition. The adjuvant, depending on its nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, water phase, lipid vesicles and / or nanoparticles.

Those skilled in the art will, of course, carefully select any of the above additive compounds, and / or amounts thereof, which are active or inactive, so that the advantageous properties of the molasses will not act vice versa or substantially vice versa by the desired addition.

If the composition according to the invention is an emulsion, the fraction of fatty phase may range from 0.5 to 80% by weight and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The oils, emulsifiers and covalent agents used in the composition in emulsion form are selected from those commonly used in the art. Emulsifiers and covalent agents range from 0.3 to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition in the composition.

As oils that can be used in the present invention, mineral oils (liquid petroleum), oils of plant origin (avocado oil, soybean oil), oils of animal origin (lanolin), synthetic oils (perhydrosqualene), silicone oils (cyclomethicone) and fluorinated Mention may be made of oils (perfluoropolyethers). Fatty materials used may also be fatty alcohols (cetyl alcohol), fatty acids, and waxes (carnauba wax, ozokerite).

As emulsifiers and covalent agents that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of, for example, fatty acid polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-20 stearate, and fatty acid glycerol esters such as glyceryl stearate.

As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may be made in particular of acrylic acid copolymers such as carboxyvinyl polymers (carbomers), acrylate / alkyl acrylate copolymers, polyacrylamides, polysaccharides, natural gums and clays, As oily gelling agents, mention may be made of modified clays such as benton, metal salts of fatty acids, hydrophobic silica and polyethylene.

As active ingredients, in particular polyols, vitamins, epidermal depleting accelerators and / or exfoliants, anti-inflammatory agents, sedatives and mixtures thereof can be used. In addition, although unfermented molasses has decolorizing activity which is the basis for use as the only decolorizing active ingredient of the bleaching composition, it is also possible to use other decolorizing agents, such as kojic acid or hydroquinone and derivatives thereof, in the compositions of the present invention. So that the latter is administered less. In fact, a synergistic effect is observed when using a combination of unfermented molasses and kojic acid. In the example of immiscibility, at least some active ingredients are incorporated into glomeruli, in particular ionic or nonionic vesicles and / or nanoparticles (nanocapsules and / or nanospheres) to render the active ingredients incompatible with one another in the composition. Can be separated from.

UV fillers also having lipophilic or hydrophilic in the composition, such as benzene-1,4-di (3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfone) acid, 2-ethylhexyl α-cyano-β, β-diphenyl Acrylate or octocrylene, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, octyl methoxycinnamate and / or titanium oxide and zinc oxide can be used.

The compositions are especially suitable for face, hand or body protection creams, therapeutic creams or cosmetic creams, protective or cosmetic body milks, lotions for skin care or treatment, gels or mousses, cleaning lotions or bactericidal lotions, compositions for baths, foundations and dyeings In the latter case, the composition contains a pigment.

The invention will be described for the purpose of the following non-limiting examples.

Example 1 Description of Decolorization Activity of Molasses

A biological test describing the decolorizing activity of unfermented acacia molasses, which was tested at a concentration of 0.1-1-10% in water.

Such tests are described in the applicant's patent FR 2734825 and in R. Schmidt, P. Krien and M. Regnier in Anal. Biochem. (1996) 235 (2), 113-18. This was done in co-media of keratinocytes and melanocytes.

result

Molasses exhibits the advantage of not exhibiting cytotoxicity, a major drawback of bleaching agents, to keratinocytes and melanocytes.

Observation was made at concentrations between 0.1 and 10%, and the bleaching effect of molasses was independent of concentration and corresponded to class 2 bleaching agents (inhibiting melanin production 30-60% for the control).

Example 2 Molasses Based Composition

Concentrations are given in weight percent below.

Discoloration lotion

100% water

Glycerol 3%

Unfermented Acacia Molasses 2%

Preservative 0.4%

Bleaching cream

100% water

Glycerol 3%

5% unfermented acacia molasses

Preservative 0.4%

Liquid oil 15%

Sorbitan tristearate 0.9%

Polyethylene Glycol Stearate 2%

Cetyl alcohol 4%

Glyceryl Stearate, Potassium Stearate 8%

Sodium stearate 2%

Since the molasses is prepared very easily, the lotion and cream can be prepared conventionally.

Claims (5)

Bleaching agents, bleaches, or bleaching agents and bleaching agents for skin or hair, pigmentation defects of the skin, or unfermented molasses used as bleaching agents, bleaching agents, or bleaching agents and bleaching agents for skin or hair and the treatment of pigmentation defects of the skin, Cosmetic composition, characterized in that the molasses is present in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Prepared using unfermented molasses for skin or hair, for depigmentation, gloss, or discoloration and gloss for the treatment of pigmentation defects of the skin, or for the discoloration, gloss, or discoloration and gloss for the treatment of pigmentation defects for the skin or hair and skin. Dermatological composition, wherein the molasses is present in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. delete The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the molasses is present in an amount of from 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. delete