KR20040020627A - Method for producing microfilament suede-like textiles - Google Patents

Method for producing microfilament suede-like textiles Download PDF

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Publication number
KR20040020627A
KR20040020627A KR1020020052274A KR20020052274A KR20040020627A KR 20040020627 A KR20040020627 A KR 20040020627A KR 1020020052274 A KR1020020052274 A KR 1020020052274A KR 20020052274 A KR20020052274 A KR 20020052274A KR 20040020627 A KR20040020627 A KR 20040020627A
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South Korea
Prior art keywords
yarn
suede
knitted fabric
polyester
island
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KR1020020052274A
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Korean (ko)
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KR100469753B1 (en
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노승천
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케이.엠.에프 주식회사
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Priority to KR10-2002-0052274A priority Critical patent/KR100469753B1/en
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/02Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features
    • D04B21/04Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features characterised by thread material
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/18Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating elastic threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/20Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting articles of particular configuration
    • D04B21/207Wearing apparel or garment blanks
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C11/00Teasing, napping or otherwise roughening or raising pile of textile fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C13/00Shearing, clipping or cropping surfaces of textile fabrics; Pile cutting; Trimming seamed edges
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00Heating or cooling textile fabrics
    • D06C7/02Setting
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/37Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/564Polyureas, polyurethanes or other polymers having ureide or urethane links; Precondensation products forming them
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/34Material containing ester groups
    • D06P3/52Polyesters
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]

Abstract

PURPOSE: Provided is a suede microfiber knitted fabric which involves excellent flexibility and elasticity, soft tactility and fine appearance. CONSTITUTION: In a method of manufacturing the suede microfiber knitted fabric, the facing yarn with eluate and fiber formation components is formed with a polyester-based sea island yarn with a fineness of 0.03-0.3, and the back yarn is formed by interlacing a polyester sea island yarn with 0.03-0.3 denier of a high shrinkage polyester-based filament. The facing and the back yarns are knitted with each other by using a spandex fiber to make a knitted fabric, and the knitted fabric is napped, buffed and heat-treated. The eluate component is extracted from the sea island yarn of the knitted fabric, which is then dyed, dipped in a polyurethane solution at its back yarn, solidified, dried, and buffed.

Description

스웨드조 극세사 편직물의 제조방법 {Method for producing microfilament suede-like textiles}Method for producing suede-like microfiber knit {Method for producing microfilament suede-like textiles}

본 발명은 스웨드조 극세사 편직물의 제조방법에 대한 것으로, 보다 상세하게 말하면 해도사와 고수축사 및 신축성 스판덱스 섬유를 사용하여 편성된 편직물을 후가공 처리를 통하여 천연 스웨드감을 줄 수 있는 스웨드조 극세사 편직물의 제조방법에 대한 것이다.The present invention relates to a method of manufacturing a suede-like microfiber knitted fabric, and more specifically, a method of manufacturing a suede-like microfiber knitted fabric which can give a natural suede feeling through post-processing of a knitted fabric using sea island yarn, high shrink yarn, and elastic spandex fiber. It is about.

스웨드조 편직물를 제조함에 있어서, 극세사를 이용하여 보다 천연의 스웨드에 가까운 촉감을 가진 스웨드를 제조하는 기술이 개발되어 촉감이나, 색상 및 공정의 개선 등의 관련 기술이 지속적으로 개발되고 있다. 일반적으로 편직물 스웨드는 극세화가 가능한 추출형, 직방형, 분할형 또는 해도형 복합섬유 원사와 일반적인 합성섬유를 경위사로 사용하여 직물을 제조하거나, 편물을 제조하여 복합섬유를 극세화하고, 극세화된 섬유를 기모 또는 버핑하는 방법이 있고, 나일론이나 폴리에스테르와 같은 불용성의 섬유성분과 이용성(易溶性)의 폴리머 성분을 복합방사한 분할형의 극세사를 스테이플화하여 이 섬유를 혼타, 카딩, 니들 펀칭하여 부직포 웹을 만든 후, 이를 폴리우레탄 수지 용액에 함침시키고, 수중에서 응고시킨 다음,알카리 수용액으로 이용성의 폴리에스테르 성분을 제거하여 단사 섬도가 0.005~0.05데니어의 극세사로 이루어진 인공피혁을 제조한 다음, 버핑, 염색, 후가공 처리를 하여 완성한다.In the manufacture of suede-like knitted fabrics, a technique for producing a suede having a touch closer to natural suede by using microfiber has been developed, and related technologies such as improvement of touch, color, and process have been continuously developed. In general, knitted suede is made of microfiber extractable, rectangular, split or island-in-the-sea composite fiber yarns and general synthetic fibers as the warp yarns, or knits to make the composite fibers finer and finer. There is a method of raising or buffing the fibers, and stapling the split microfibers in which the insoluble fiber component such as nylon or polyester and the usable polymer component are spun together, and the fiber is mixed with the punching, carding and needle punching. After making a non-woven web, it was impregnated in a polyurethane resin solution, solidified in water, and then removed from the usable polyester component with an aqueous alkali solution to prepare an artificial leather composed of microfiber with a single yarn fineness of 0.005 ~ 0.05 denier Finish by buffing, dyeing and finishing.

그러나, 상기의 종래 방법에 의해 제조되는 종래의 부직포 인공피혁은, 부직포의 제조 공정 및 구조상, 부직포 자체의 섬유의 밀도가 고르게 분포되기 어렵다는 문제점을 가지고 있고, 폴리우레탄 함침후에 이용성 성분의 폴리머를 용출해야 하기 때문에 후공정이 어렵다는 단점을 가지고 있다.However, the conventional nonwoven artificial leather produced by the above conventional method has a problem that the density of the fibers of the nonwoven fabric itself is difficult to be evenly distributed due to the manufacturing process and structure of the nonwoven fabric, and elutes the polymer of the usable component after polyurethane impregnation. It has a disadvantage that it is difficult to do post-processing.

따라서 본 발명은 상기한 바와 같은 선행기술의 제반 문제점을 해소할 수 있는 탄력성 및 신축성이 우수하고 부드러운 촉감과 수려한 외관을 보유하는 스웨드조 극세사 편직물의 제조방법을 제공하는 것을 기술적 과제로 한다.Therefore, the present invention is to provide a method of manufacturing a suede-like microfiber knit fabric having excellent elasticity and elasticity, soft touch and beautiful appearance that can solve all the problems of the prior art as described above.

상기한 과제를 해결하기 위하여 본 발명자는 기존의 스웨이드를 제조하는 공정에서 해도사와 고수축 폴리에스터계 필라멘트를 인터레이스하여 이면부에 배열하여 경편직물을 제조하게 되면 수축율 차이에 의한 볼륨감을 증진시킬 수 있으며, 해도사로 구성된 편직물의 양면사이에 중간사로 스판덱스 섬유를 사용하여 신축성을 부여하게 되면 뻣뻣한 느낌을 줄이고 탄력감을 부여할 수 있으며, 폴리우레탄의 함침전에 해도사에서 용출성분을 용출시킴으로써 후가공을 용이하고 안정되게 할 수 있다는 것을 알게 되어 본 발명을 완성하게 된 것이다.In order to solve the above problems, the present inventors can interlace the island-in-the-sea yarn and the high shrink polyester filament in the manufacturing process of the existing suede and arrange the warp knitted fabric by arranging the warp knitted fabric to increase the volume feeling due to the difference in shrinkage. When elasticity is given by using spandex fiber as intermediate yarn between both sides of the knitted fabric consisting of seaweed yarn, it can reduce stiffness and impart elasticity, and it is easy and stable after processing by eluting eluting component from seaweed yarn before impregnation of polyurethane. It has been found that the present invention can be completed to complete the present invention.

그러므로 본 발명에 의하면 스웨드조 극세사 편직물의 제조방법에 있어서,Therefore, according to the present invention, in the method of producing a suede-like microfiber knitted fabric,

표면사는 용출성분과 섬유형성 성분으로 구성되며 용출후 단사섬도가 0.03∼0.3데니아인 폴리에스터계 해도사를 사용하고, 이면사는 상기 표면사의 폴리에스터계 해도사와 20∼30%의 비수수축율을 가진 단사섬도 0.03∼0.3데니아의 고수축 폴리에스터계 필라멘트를 인터레이스하여 사용하고, 상기 표면사와 이면사를 스판덱스 섬유를 사용하여 연결시켜 편직한 다음, 기모, 버핑, 열처리하고, 해도사내 용출성분을 추출하고 염색한 후, 이면에 폴리우레탄 용액을 함침, 응고, 건조 및 버핑공정을 포함하는 것을 특징으로 하는 스웨드조 극세사 편직물의 제조방법이 제공된다.The surface yarn is composed of an eluting component and a fiber forming component, and a polyester-based island-in-the-sea yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.03 to 0.3 denier after elution is used. A high shrinkage polyester filament with 0.03 to 0.3 denier fineness is interlaced, the surface yarns and the back yarns are spliced by using spandex fibers, knitted, then brushed, buffed, heat treated, and extracted and dyed in the island-in-the-sea yarn. Thereafter, a method for producing a suede-like microfiber knit fabric comprising a process of impregnating, solidifying, drying and buffing a polyurethane solution on the back side is provided.

이하 본 발명을 보다 상세히 설명하기로 한다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

본 발명의 최종제품인 스웨드조 극세사 편직물은 폴리에스터계 해도사를 표면사로 사용하고, 폴리에스터계 해도사와 고수축 폴리에스터계 필라멘트의 교락사를 이면사로 사용하고, 중간사로 스판덱스 섬유를 사용하여 이루어진 편직물을 기모, 버핑, 열처리하고, 해도사내 용출성분을 추출하고 염색한 후, 이면에 폴리우레탄 용액을 함침, 응고, 건조 및 버핑공정을 통해 제조된 신축성을 가지면서 탄력감을 주는 스웨드조 극세사 편직물이다.The suede-like microfiber knit fabric of the final product of the present invention uses a polyester-based island-in-the-sea yarn as a surface yarn, a entangled yarn of polyester-based island-in-the-sea yarn and a high-shrink polyester-based filament as a back yarn, and a spandex fiber as an intermediate yarn. After raising, buffing, heat-treating and extracting and dyeing the elution component in the island-in-the-sea yarn, it is a suede-like microfiber knit fabric having elasticity while impregnating, solidifying, drying and buffing a polyurethane solution on the back side.

본 발명에서 상기 표면사에 사용되는 섬유는 폴리에스터계 해도사로서 용출성분과 섬유형성 성분으로 구성된 필라멘트이다. 상기 해도사는 도성분으로는 폴리에스터계 수지를 사용하고 해성분으로는 도성분과 용제용해성이 상이한 공중합 폴리에스터계 수지를 사용하는 것이 바람직하다. 최종제품인 스웨이드 직물의 특성을 보유하기 위해서는 후가공공정에서 해성분이 용출되어 도성분의 단사섬유의 용출후의 섬도가 0.03∼0.3데니아 정도인 것이 바람직하다.In the present invention, the fiber used for the surface yarn is a filament composed of an eluting component and a fiber forming component as a polyester-based island-in-the-sea yarn. It is preferable that the said island-in-the-sea yarn uses polyester-type resin as a island component, and uses co-polyester-type resin from which a island component and solvent solubility differ as a sea component. In order to retain the characteristics of the suede fabric as a final product, it is preferable that the sea component is eluted during the post-processing process and the fineness after the elution of the single yarn fiber of the island component is about 0.03 to 0.3 denier.

본 발명에서 이면사에는 폴리에스터계 해도사와 고수축 폴리에스터계 필라멘트의 교락사로 이루어지는데 폴리에스터계 해도사와 2.0∼4.0 데니아의 고수축 폴리에스터계 필라멘트를 공기교락(인터레이스)한 교락사를 사용하는 것이 바람직하다. 본 발명에서 사용하는 고수축 폴리에스터계 필라멘트는 편제직시에는 일반 원사와 동일한 물성을 보이지만 정련 및 염색공정에서 열수(熱水)를 만나면 고수축의 물성을 보이는 원사이다. 상기 폴리에스터계 필라멘트는 20∼30%의 비수수축율을 보유한 필라멘트를 사용하는 것이 바람직하며 이는 일반 폴리에스터계 필라멘트에 비해 2배 이상의 비수수축율을 보이며 폴리에스터계 해도사와 공기교락됨으로써 후의 축소가공에 의하여 폴리에스터계 해도사와 수축도의 차이에 의해 자연스러운 루프를 형성하고 기모공정이 용이해지며 직물의 스웨드효과가 양호해진다.In the present invention, the backside yarn is composed of interlacing yarns of polyester-based islands and high-shrink polyester filaments, but the use of interlacing yarns in which air-interlaced polyester-based islands and high shrink polyester filaments of 2.0 to 4.0 denier is used. desirable. The high shrink polyester filament used in the present invention is a yarn that shows the same physical properties as a general yarn when knitted, but exhibits high shrinking properties when hot water is encountered in refining and dyeing processes. The polyester filament preferably uses a filament having a non-shrinkage ratio of 20 to 30%, which shows a non-shrinkage ratio of 2 times or more than a general polyester filament, and is subjected to post-shrink processing by interweaving with polyester-based sea island yarns. Due to the difference between polyester islands and shrinkage, a natural loop is formed, the raising process is easy, and the suede effect of the fabric is improved.

본 발명에서는 상기 표면사와 이면사를 구성하는 실을 신축성이 좋은 스판덱스 섬유로 연결하여 편직물을 제조할 수 있다. 상기 스판덱스섬유는 표면사와 이면사를 적절하게 연결해 주는 역할을 함으로써 편직물전체에 탄력감을 부여하는 역할을 한다. 사용되는 스판덱스 섬유는 30∼70 데니아의 섬도를 가진 것이 바람직하다.In the present invention, it is possible to produce a knitted fabric by connecting the yarns constituting the surface yarn and the backside yarn with a good elastic spandex fiber. The spandex fiber plays a role of properly connecting the surface yarn and the backside yarn to serve to give elasticity to the whole knitted fabric. The spandex fiber to be used preferably has a fineness of 30 to 70 denier.

본 발명에서는 해도사를 표면사로 사용하고 이면사로는 해도사와 고수축 폴리에스터계 필라멘트의 교락사를 사용하고 스판덱스 섬유를 중층에 사용하여 일반트리코트 조직으로 편직물을 제조할 수 있다. 제조된 편직물 생지를 기모 및 샤링(shearing)을 통하여 해도사를 절단하여 일으켜 세우는데 기모처리는 기모기로 3~8회 처리하고, 표면을 고르게 하기 위해서 샤링 처리를 해주는 것이 좋다. 다음으로 감량 및 염색공정에서 지나치게 수축되는 것을 방지하기 위해서 열처리를 해 주는 것이 좋은데 이때는 170~180℃에서 60초 이내 처리를 하여 형태 안정성을 유지해주면 된다.In the present invention, the island-in-the-sea yarn is used as the surface yarn, and as the back yarn, the interwoven yarn of the island-in-the-sea yarn and the high shrink polyester filament is used, and the spandex fiber is used in the middle layer to produce a knitted fabric with a general tricoat structure. The knitted fabric is made by cutting and raising the island-in-the-sea yarn through raising and shearing. The brushing treatment is performed 3 to 8 times with a brush, and the shaling treatment is performed to even the surface. Next, it is good to heat treatment to prevent excessive shrinkage in the weight loss and dyeing process. In this case, the shape stability may be maintained by processing within 170 seconds at 170 to 180 ° C.

다음으로는 감량 및 염색을 행하게 되는데, 여기서 감량공정은 해도사의 극세화를 결정하는 중요 공정이기 때문에 알카리의 투입량 및 처리 시간 등이 중요하다. 일반 직물의 경우에는 로타리 와셔에서 가성소다를 1~10%중량 % 사용하여 95℃, 30분 처리하지만, 편직물의 경우에는 형태안정성 유지에 도움을 주고, 알카리의 침투가 용이한 점이 있어 3~8% 중량 % 이내에서 가성소다 사용량을 결정하고, 처리온도는 직물의 경우와 동일한 95℃, 30분 정도로 해주면 된다. 이때 감량율을 25~35% 범위 내에서 조절해야 하는데 25% 이하에서는 감량에 따른 극세화 효과가 제대로 발현되지 않아 해도사 특유의 감촉이 발현되지 않으며, 35% 이상에서는 지나친 감량에 따른 형태안정성 저하로 인하여 외관 불량 및 제품의 강도 저하 등을 초래하므로 주의를 하여야 한다.Next, weight loss and dyeing are performed. Here, since the weight loss process is an important process for determining the fineness of the island-in-the-sea yarn, the amount and the treatment time of alkali are important. In the case of general fabrics, caustic soda is used at 1 ~ 10% weight% in a rotary washer and treated at 95 ℃ for 30 minutes.However, in the case of knitted fabrics, it helps to maintain shape stability and easily penetrates alkali. The amount of caustic soda used is determined within% weight%, and the treatment temperature should be about 95 ° C for 30 minutes. At this time, the weight loss ratio should be adjusted within the range of 25 ~ 35%, but if it is less than 25%, the microscopic effect of weight loss is not properly expressed. Because of this, it is necessary to pay attention because it causes the appearance defect and the strength of the product.

상기 극세화된 편직물은 고압 래피드 염색기에서 분산염료를 사용하여 염색하게 되며 이 염색지를 170~180℃에서 60초 이내 처리를 통하여 건열세팅을 행한다. 건열 처리가 끝난 염색지를 기모 및 버핑 처리를 통하여 얻고자 하는 표면 스웨드 편직물을 제조한다. 기모처리는 기모기로 3~8회 처리하고, 버핑처리시에는 메쉬 150번~300번 사포를 사용하여 처리하여 주는 것이 좋다.The ultra-fine knitted fabric is dyed using a disperse dye in a high-pressure rapid dyeing machine and the heat-dry setting is performed through the dyeing paper within 170 seconds at 170 ~ 180 ℃. The surface suede knitted fabric to be obtained by brushing and buffing the dry heat-treated dyed paper is prepared. Raising treatment is treated 3 to 8 times with a brush, and when the buffing treatment is good to use the sandpaper No. 150 ~ 300 sandpaper.

기모 및 버핑처리가 끝난 편직물은 폴리우레탄 탄성체를 코팅하여 충진시켜 촉촉하고 탄력감이 있는 물성을 발현하고 미세기모의 지지력을 향상시키게 한다. 여기서 사용하는 폴리우레탄 탄성체는 고형분이 30~40% 정도인 폴리에스테르계 또는 폴리에테르계의 폴리우레탄을 사용하는 것이 좋다. 용제로는 범용적으로 사용하고 있는 4,4-디메틸포름아마이드를 사용한다. 폴리우레탄은 특유의 점성으로 단독으로 사용하기 곤란하므로 용제와 혼합하여 교반하게 되는데, 이때 폴리우레탄과 용제의 혼합 비율은 1:3~1:4로 하여 고형분 농도가 10±5% 정도가 되도록 1시간 정도 충분히 교반시켜 사용한다. 이와 같이 희석된 폴리우레탄 용액을 일반 습식코팅기에서 함침하는 방법으로 코팅을 행한다. 함침할 때의 폴리우테탄 충진량은 스웨드 전체 중량 대비 5~10%인 것으로 하는데 충진량이 5% 미만인 경우에는 폴리우레탄 충진에 따른 손에 쥐었을 때의 탄력감이 전혀 없고, 10% 이상인 경우에는 편직물 스웨드 고유의 표면 효과보다는 폴리우레탄 충진제의 느낌이 너무 강하게 발현되므로 곤란하다.The brushed and buffed knitted fabric is coated with a polyurethane elastomer to fill and express moist and elastic properties and improve the support of micro-napping. As the polyurethane elastic body used here, it is preferable to use a polyester-based or polyether-based polyurethane having a solid content of about 30 to 40%. As the solvent, 4,4-dimethylformamide, which is commonly used, is used. Polyurethane is difficult to be used alone due to its unique viscosity, so it is mixed with a solvent and stirred. At this time, the mixing ratio of the polyurethane and the solvent is 1: 3 to 1: 4 so that the solid content concentration is about 10 ± 5%. It is used by stirring sufficiently for about an hour. Coating is performed by impregnating the diluted polyurethane solution in a general wet coating machine. When impregnated, the amount of polybutane filling is 5-10% of the total weight of suede. If the filling amount is less than 5%, there is no feeling of elasticity when held by polyurethane filling. It is difficult because the feeling of polyurethane filler is expressed too strongly rather than inherent surface effect.

본 발명에서는 편직이 끝난 후의 편직물을 기모함에 있어서 염색이 완료되고 세팅한후 폴리우레탄 함침공정전에 기모처리하여 스웨드조 극세사 편직물을 제조할 수 있다. 이경우에는 편직물 내부에 폴리우레탄의 침투가 용이해 지고 함침량이 높아져 탄력감이 보다 우수해 진다.In the present invention, in raising the knitted fabric after finishing the knitting, the dyeing is completed and set, and then brushed before the polyurethane impregnation process can be produced suede-like microfiber knitted fabric. In this case, the penetration of polyurethane into the inside of the knitted fabric is facilitated and the impregnation amount is increased, so the elasticity is more excellent.

충진이 완료된 염색지를 150~300번 사포를 사용하여 버핑 처리하여 편직물 스웨드 표면에 부착되어 있는 폴리우레탄 충진제를 제거하는 동시에 표면 해도사원사들을 다시 한번 세분화 시켜 주는 것이 바람직하다. 버핑처리한 편직물 스웨드를 170~180℃에서 40~60초간 세팅시키는데 세팅시 처리 속도는 40초 이하에서는 충분한 세팅 효과가 발현되지 않아 중량 및 폭을 제대로 발현할 수 없고, 60초 이상에서는 과도한 세팅에 따른 딱딱한 촉감 발현으로 스웨드 고유의 효과를 발현할 수 없게 된다.It is preferable to remove the polyurethane filler adhering to the surface of the knitted suede by buffing the dyed paper with 150 to 300 sandpapers and to subdivide the surface island yarns once again. When setting the buffed knitted suede for 40 to 60 seconds at 170-180 ° C, the treatment speed is not sufficient to express the weight and width at 40 seconds or less, and the weight and width cannot be properly expressed. Due to the hard touch, the suede effect can not be expressed.

이하 다음의 실시예에서는 폴리에스터계 해도사 , 고수축 폴리에스터계 필라멘트 및 스판덱스사등을 사용하여 스웨드조 극세사 편직물을 제조하는 비한정적인 예시를 하고 있다.In the following examples, non-limiting examples of producing suede-like microfiber knit fabrics using polyester-based island-in-the-sea yarns, high shrinkage polyester filaments, spandex yarns, and the like are given.

[실시예 1]Example 1

감량공정을 거쳐 도성분의 최종 섬도가 0.04데니어인 해도사를 표면사로 사용하고, 스판덱스 40데니어를 중간사로 사용하며, 표면사에 사용한 해도사와 단사섬도 2.5데니어인 고수축사(비수수축율 24%)를 미터당 70개의 교락수를 가지게 인터레이스사를 만들어 최종 섬도를 105데니어인 혼섬사를 이면사로 사용하여 28게이지 105인치의 경편지를 제조한다. 이와 같이 제조된 경편지를 기모기에서 6회 처리하여 선기모하고, 170℃에서 30초간 건열 세팅한다. 세팅지를 액류 감량기에서 95℃, 30분간 2중량 %의 가성소다를 투입하여 감량 처리하고, 곧바로 고압염색기에서 125℃, 30분간의 균염조건으로 분산염료 C.I.분산염료 적색 60 (C.I.Disperse Red 60), C.I. 분산염료 청색 56 (C.I.Disperse Blue 56), C.I. 분산염료 노랑 54 (C.I.Disperse Yellow 54)의 3가지로 컬러매칭(color matching)하여 염색하고 수세하여 170℃, 30초간 세팅하여 염색지를 완성한다. 이와 같이 완성된 염색지를 고형분 30%인 폴리우레탄과 4,4-디메틸포름아마이드가 1:3의 비율로 희석되어 고형분이 10%가 된 폴리우레탄 용액에 함침시켜 수세조를 통과시켜 응고시키고, 이를 170℃에서 30초간 세팅한 후에 300메쉬의 사포로 버핑처리하고, 다시 170℃에서 30초간 세팅하여 52인치 370그램/야드인 본 발명의 스웨드조 극세사 편직물을 제조하였다. 이와 같이 제조된 경편지 스웨드는 촉감이 뛰어나고, 표면의 라이팅 효과가 풍부하여 천연 스웨드와 동일한 제품을 얻을 수 있었다.Through the weight reduction process, the island-in-the-sea yarn with the final fineness of 0.04 denier is used as the surface yarn, and the spandex 40 denier is used as the intermediate yarn, and the high shrink yarn (non-shrinkage rate 24%) with the island-in-the-sea yarn and single yarn fineness of 2.5 denier used for the surface yarn. Interlaced yarns are made with 70 interlaced yarns per meter to make 28 gauge 105-inch warp yarns using the final fineness of 105 denier blended yarns as backside yarns. The warp knitted paper thus prepared was treated 6 times in a brush and brushed, and then set to dry heat at 170 ° C. for 30 seconds. After setting the weight loss, add 2 wt% of caustic soda at 95 ℃ for 30 minutes in the liquid reducer, and disperse dye CI dispersion red 60 (CIDisperse Red 60) at 125 ℃ for 30 minutes in a high pressure dyeing machine. CI Disperse Dye Blue 56, C.I. Disperse dye Yellow 54 (C.I. Disperse Yellow 54) three color matching (color matching), dyeing and washing with water, set at 170 ℃, 30 seconds to complete the dyed paper. The finished dyeing paper was diluted with a ratio of 1: 3 polyurethane and 4,4-dimethylformamide with a solid content of 30%, impregnated in a polyurethane solution with a solid content of 10%, and coagulated by passing through a washing tank. After setting at 170 ° C. for 30 seconds, it was buffed with 300 mesh sandpaper and again set at 170 ° C. for 30 seconds to prepare a suede-like microfiber knitted fabric of the present invention which was 52 inches 370 grams / yard. The warp knitted suede thus prepared was excellent in touch and rich in the lighting effect of the surface, thereby obtaining the same product as natural suede.

[실시예 2]Example 2

실시예 1에서 염색후 건조한후 폴리우테탄 용액에 함침하기 전에 6회 기모처리를 하여 희석된 폴리우레탄의 고형분이 15%가 되게 하여 처리하였으며, 나머지 공정은 실시예1과 동일하게 실시하였다.After dyeing and drying in Example 1 was treated with 6 times brushed before impregnating the polyurethane solution to the solid content of the diluted polyurethane to 15%, the rest of the process was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1.

[비교예 1]Comparative Example 1

실시예 1의 제조방법과 동일하게 스웨드조 극세사 편직물을 제조하되 이면사에 3데니어급의 일반 폴리에스테르 원사만을 사용하여 실시하였다.A suede-like microfiber knitted fabric was prepared in the same manner as in the manufacturing method of Example 1, but was performed using only 3 denier-grade general polyester yarn in the backside yarn.

[비교예 2]Comparative Example 2

실시예 2의 제조방법과 동일하게 스웨드조 극세사 편직물을 제조하되 이면사에 3데니어급의 일반 폴리에스테르 원사만을 사용하여 실시하였다. 공정상의 특징은 표1에 표시하고 있다.A suede-like microfiber knitted fabric was prepared in the same manner as in the manufacturing method of Example 2, but was performed using only 3 denier-grade general polyester yarn in the backside yarn. Process characteristics are shown in Table 1.

이상과 같이 표1에 따라 제조된 스웨드조 극세사 편직물의 물성을 표2에 나타내었다.As described above, the physical properties of the suede-like microfiber knitted fabric prepared in accordance with Table 1 are shown in Table 2.

구분division 원사 구성Yarn Composition 공정fair 이면사(섬도)Back side yarn (island) 중간사(섬도)Middle sand (fineness) 표면사(섬도)Surface thread (fineness) 실시예 1Example 1 해도사(0.04),고수축사(2.5)의 교락사Kyorusa (0.04), High Conqueror (2.5) 스판덱스 (40)Spandex (40) 해도사 (0.04)Monk (0.04) 염색후 코팅Post Dyeing Coating 실시예 2Example 2 해도사(0.04),고수축사(2.5)의 교락사Kyorusa (0.04), High Conqueror (2.5) 염색, 기모후 코팅Dyeing, after brushing 비교예 1Comparative Example 1 일반사(3.0)General History (3.0) 염색후 코팅Post Dyeing Coating 비교예 2Comparative Example 2 일반사(3.0)General History (3.0) 염색, 기모후 코팅Dyeing, after brushing

촉감touch 라이팅효과Lighting effect 실시예 1Example 1 실시예 2Example 2 O 비교예 1Comparative Example 1 O 비교예 2Comparative Example 2 O O

◎ 매우우수 , O 우수 , △ 보 통◎ Very good, Excellent, △ Normal

이상 설명한 바와 같이 본 발명에 의하면 기존의 인조 스웨드 및 부직포 스웨드에서 볼 수 없었던 부드러운 촉감과 스판덱스의 사용으로 인한 탄력감을 부여할 수 있으며, 이면사를 구성하는 섬유간의 수축율 차이에 의한 볼륨감을 증진시켜 신축성이 우수하며, 부드러운 촉감을 가지며 수려한 외관을 보유하는 고급의류용 및 가구용 등 고급외장재로 사용가능한 스웨드조 극세사 편직물을 제조할 수 있게 되며, 폴리우레탄의 함침전에 해도사에서 용출성분을 용출시킴으로써 후가공을 용이하고 안정되게 할 수 있는 공정상의 장점이 있다.As described above, according to the present invention, it is possible to give a soft touch and elasticity due to the use of spandex, which is not seen in conventional artificial suede and nonwoven suede, and to increase the volume by the difference in shrinkage between fibers constituting the backside yarn. It is possible to manufacture suede-like microfiber knitted fabrics that can be used as high-quality exterior materials such as high-quality clothing and furniture, which has excellent soft touch and beautiful appearance, and facilitates post-processing by eluting the eluting component from sea island before impregnation of polyurethane. There is a process advantage that can be made stable.

Claims (3)

스웨드조 극세사 편직물의 제조방법에 있어서,In the manufacturing method of suede-like microfiber knit fabric, 표면사는 용출성분과 섬유형성 성분으로 구성되며 용출후 단사섬도가 0.03∼0.3데니아인 폴리에스터계 해도사를 사용하고, 이면사는 상기 표면사의 폴리에스터계 해도사와 20∼30%의 비수수축율을 가진 단사섬도 0.03∼0.3데니아의 고수축 폴리에스터계 필라멘트를 인터레이스하여 사용하고, 상기 표면사와 이면사를 스판덱스 섬유를 사용하여 연결시켜 편직한 다음, 기모, 버핑, 열처리하고, 해도사내 용출성분을 추출하고 염색한 후, 이면에 폴리우레탄 용액을 함침, 응고, 건조 및 버핑공정을 포함하는 것을 특징으로 하는 스웨드조 극세사 편직물의 제조방법.The surface yarn is composed of an eluting component and a fiber forming component, and a polyester-based island-in-the-sea yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.03 to 0.3 denier after elution is used. A high shrinkage polyester filament with 0.03 to 0.3 denier fineness is interlaced, the surface yarns and the back yarns are spliced by using spandex fibers, knitted, then brushed, buffed, heat treated, and extracted and dyed in the island-in-the-sea yarn. After, impregnating, solidifying, drying and buffing a polyurethane solution on the back surface, the method of manufacturing a suede-like microfiber knit fabric. 제 1항에 있어서, 상기 편직물을 기모함에 있어서 염색된 편직물을 세팅한후 폴리우레탄 함침공정전에 기모처리하는 것을 특징으로 하는 스웨드조 극세사 편직물의 제조방법.The method of manufacturing a suede-like microfiber knit fabric according to claim 1, wherein after raising the dyed knit fabric in raising the knit fabric, the fabric is brushed before the polyurethane impregnation process. 제 1항에 있어서, 폴리우레탄 함침량이 스웨이드 전체 중량 대비 5∼10 중량%인 것을 특징으로 하는 스웨드조 극세사 편직물의 제조방법.The method of claim 1, wherein the polyurethane impregnation amount is 5 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of suede.
KR10-2002-0052274A 2002-08-31 2002-08-31 Method for producing microfilament suede-like textiles KR100469753B1 (en)

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KR100625110B1 (en) * 2005-03-31 2006-09-20 케이.엠.에프 주식회사 Preparation of suede-like artificial polyurethane impregnated leather
EP3561164A4 (en) * 2018-02-05 2020-04-29 Zhejiang meisheng new materials co., LTD Ultrafine fiber fabric and manufacturing process therefor
EP3578713A4 (en) * 2016-10-28 2020-09-02 Zhejiang Meisheng Industrial & Commerce Share Co., Ltd Polyester microfiber fabric and manufacturing process therefor
KR102292164B1 (en) * 2021-05-14 2021-08-23 남택욱 A knitting fabrics and suede-like automobile interior materials using the same and manufacturing method of thereof
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KR200193416Y1 (en) * 1998-02-26 2000-09-01 윤수근 Three bar micro spandex peach suede
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KR20020039598A (en) * 2001-06-16 2002-05-27 손기혁 Method of fabricating artificial suede using micro-fiber knitted work

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR100625110B1 (en) * 2005-03-31 2006-09-20 케이.엠.에프 주식회사 Preparation of suede-like artificial polyurethane impregnated leather
EP3578713A4 (en) * 2016-10-28 2020-09-02 Zhejiang Meisheng Industrial & Commerce Share Co., Ltd Polyester microfiber fabric and manufacturing process therefor
EP3561164A4 (en) * 2018-02-05 2020-04-29 Zhejiang meisheng new materials co., LTD Ultrafine fiber fabric and manufacturing process therefor
KR102292164B1 (en) * 2021-05-14 2021-08-23 남택욱 A knitting fabrics and suede-like automobile interior materials using the same and manufacturing method of thereof
KR102331638B1 (en) * 2021-07-16 2021-12-02 남택욱 A knitting fabrics and suede-like automobile interior materials using the same and manufacturing method of thereof

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