KR101249934B1 - Process Of Producing Suede―like Polyurethane―impregnated Textiles Using NanoFilaments - Google Patents

Process Of Producing Suede―like Polyurethane―impregnated Textiles Using NanoFilaments Download PDF

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KR101249934B1
KR101249934B1 KR1020110029311A KR20110029311A KR101249934B1 KR 101249934 B1 KR101249934 B1 KR 101249934B1 KR 1020110029311 A KR1020110029311 A KR 1020110029311A KR 20110029311 A KR20110029311 A KR 20110029311A KR 101249934 B1 KR101249934 B1 KR 101249934B1
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polyurethane
suede
knitted fabric
yarn
nanofilaments
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KR20120111051A (en
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노승천
윤중기
옥치민
김형노
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케이.엠.에프 주식회사
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/16Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A47FURNITURE; DOMESTIC ARTICLES OR APPLIANCES; COFFEE MILLS; SPICE MILLS; SUCTION CLEANERS IN GENERAL
    • A47LDOMESTIC WASHING OR CLEANING; SUCTION CLEANERS IN GENERAL
    • A47L13/00Implements for cleaning floors, carpets, furniture, walls, or wall coverings
    • A47L13/10Scrubbing; Scouring; Cleaning; Polishing
    • A47L13/16Cloths; Pads; Sponges
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01FCHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
    • D01F8/00Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof
    • D01F8/04Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers
    • D01F8/14Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers with at least one polyester as constituent
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/16Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics using jets or streams of turbulent gases, e.g. air, steam
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02JFINISHING OR DRESSING OF FILAMENTS, YARNS, THREADS, CORDS, ROPES OR THE LIKE
    • D02J1/00Modifying the structure or properties resulting from a particular structure; Modifying, retaining, or restoring the physical form or cross-sectional shape, e.g. by use of dies or squeeze rollers
    • D02J1/08Interlacing constituent filaments without breakage thereof, e.g. by use of turbulent air streams
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C19/00Breaking or softening of fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00Heating or cooling textile fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/32Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
    • D06M11/36Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with oxides, hydroxides or mixed oxides; with salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/37Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/564Polyureas, polyurethanes or other polymers having ureide or urethane links; Precondensation products forming them
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/14Dyeability

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Fluid Mechanics (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Synthetic Leather, Interior Materials Or Flexible Sheet Materials (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)

Abstract

본 발명은 나노필라멘트를 폴리우레탄함침 스웨이드조 편직물의 제조방법에 관한 것으로서 본 발명에 의하여 기존의 해도사보다 더 섬도가 가는 원사를 사용하여 염색성, 항필링성 및 염색견뢰도가 우수하면서도 기존의 해도사로 제조된 스웨이드조 편직물보다 얇고 부드러운 물성을 가지는 고품격의 극세사 스웨이드조 편직물을 제공할 수 있어 고급 IT제품의 케이스나 와이퍼(wiping cloth)용 제품등의 용도로 널리 전개할 수 있는 스웨이드조 편직물을 제공할 수 있다. The present invention relates to a method for producing a suede-woven knitted fabric impregnated with nanofilament, and is excellent in dyeing, anti-pilling, and color fastness using conventional yarns having finer yarns than conventional islands-in-the-sea yarns. It can provide high quality microfiber suede knitted fabrics with thinner and softer properties than the manufactured suede knitted fabrics, and can provide suede knitted fabrics that can be widely deployed for high-tech IT cases or wiping products. Can be.

Description

나노필라멘트를 사용한 폴리우레탄함침 스웨이드조 편직물의 제조방법{Process Of Producing Suede―like Polyurethane―impregnated Textiles Using NanoFilaments}Process of Producing Suede-like Polyurethane-impregnated Textiles Using NanoFilaments}

본 발명은 나노필라멘트를 사용한 폴리우레탄함침 스웨이드조 편직물의 제조방법에 관한 것으로서 고급 IT제품의 케이스나 와이퍼(wiping cloth)용 제품등의 용도로 널리 전개할 수 있는 고품격의 스웨이드조 편직물에 관한 것이다.BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a polyurethane-impregnated suede knitted fabric using nanofilament, and more particularly, to a high-quality suede knitted fabric that can be widely used for high-end IT products, wiping products, and the like.

나노필라멘트(nanofilament)는 단면직경이 수백 나노미터에서 수십 나노미터 수준인 초극세 장섬유를 말한다. 일반적인 나노섬유를 제조하는 방법은 현재 멜트블로운 공법, 플래쉬방사, 전기방사, 해도형 복합방사등이 개발되어 있는데, 이 중 가장 안정적으로 나노필라멘트를 제조할 수 있는 방법은 해도형 복합방사방법이다.Nanofilaments are ultra-fine filaments with cross-sectional diameters ranging from hundreds of nanometers to tens of nanometers. Melt blown method, flash spinning, electrospinning, island-in-the-sea composite spinning have been developed for manufacturing general nanofibers, and the most stable method of manufacturing nanofilaments is the island-in-the-sea composite spinning method. .

해도형 복합방사법은 이용출성 해(海)성분 폴리머에 최종적으로 초극세사 필라멘트의 다발이 되는 도(島)성분 폴리머를 심는 다음, 후공정에서 해성분을 용출함으로써 초극세필라멘트를 얻는 방식으로 상기 세가지 방법과는 달리 필라멘트 형태의 섬유제조가 가능하므로 이를 이용하여 우수한 물성과 다양한 형태의 제품제조 및 용도전개가 가능하다는 장점이 있다. The island-in-the-sea composite spinning method uses the above three methods in such a way that an island-like polymer, which finally becomes a bundle of microfiber filaments, is planted in a soluble sea component polymer, and then ultra-fine filaments are obtained by eluting the sea component in a subsequent step. Since the filament-like fiber can be manufactured, there is an advantage that it is possible to manufacture and use the product in various forms with excellent physical properties.

국내의 경우 주요 화섬회사에서 해도형 복합방사로 장섬유 형태의 초극세 섬유를 개발하고 있으나 상용화 수준이 0.01denier 급으로 용도가 의류용에 국한되어 있는 형편이다. 한편, 초극세사를 사용한 편물 인조피혁이나 스웨이드 제품은 천연피혁을 대체하는 소재로 상용화되고 있으며 기능성 의류, 스포츠웨어 및 가구, 신발 등 수요가 확대되고 있으나 천연피혁에 버금가는 소프트한 터치와 볼륨감의 발현을 위해서는 600㎚ 또는 400㎚ 이하의 나노필라멘트를 이용한 편물 인조피혁이나 스웨이드 제품의 개발의 필요성이 대두되고 있으나 나노필라멘트의 사용 및 그에 따른 제공정상의 엄격한 조건설정의 어려움에 따른 최종제품의 형태안정성 저하로 인한 외관 불량, 제품의 강도 저하 및 터치의 불량등의 문제점을 안고 있었다.
In Korea, major chemical companies are developing ultra-fine fibers in the form of long fibers as island-in-the-sea composite spun yarns, but their use is limited to apparel with 0.01 denier level of commercialization. Meanwhile, knitted artificial leather and suede products made of microfiber are being commercialized as a substitute for natural leather, and demand for functional clothing, sportswear, furniture, and shoes is expanding, but soft touch and volume are comparable to that of natural leather. For this purpose, the development of knitted artificial leather or suede products using nanofilaments of 600 nm or 400 nm or less has emerged, but the morphological stability of the final product is reduced due to the difficulty of using the nanofilament and the strict conditions for providing it. Due to poor appearance, product strength and touch had a problem such as poor.

그러므로 본 발명에는 기존의 용도가 의류용에 국한되어 있던 0.01데니아급미만의 극세사를 사용한 편물 인조피혁이나 스웨이드 제품의 물성을 뛰어넘어 형태안정성이 우수하고, 제품의 강도 및 터치가 우수한 초박지의 고감성 스웨이드조 편직물을 제공함에 필요한 최적의 감량기술, 고품위 염색 및 후가공 기술을 제공하는 것을 기술적과제로 한다.
Therefore, the present invention is superior to the physical properties of knitted artificial leather or suede products using microfibers of less than 0.01 denier class, which is conventionally limited to apparel. It is a technical task to provide the optimum weight reduction technique, high-quality dyeing and post-processing technique necessary for providing an emotional suede knitted fabric.

그러므로 본 발명에 의하면 용출후 단사섬도가 0.006~0.01데니아인 폴리에스터계 해도사와 20∼30%의 비수수축율을 가진 단사섬도 2∼3데니아의 고수축 폴리에스터계 필라멘트의 인터레이스사로 편직중량 260~290g/yd, 후도 0.4~0.6㎜의 인터록 편성물을 편직한 후, 알카리 감량한 후 염색, 프리셋팅, 기모, 100~150% 픽업율로 유성 폴리우레탄함침, 열처리, 버핑하여 완성하는 것을 특징으로 하는 나노필라멘트를 사용한 폴리우레탄함침 스웨이드조 편직물의 제조방법이 제공된다.
Therefore, according to the present invention, a polyester-based island-in-the-sea yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.006 to 0.01 denier after elution and an interlaced yarn of a high shrink polyester filament having a non-shrinkage of 2-3 denier having a non-shrinkage of 20 to 30% is knitted. / yd, after the interlock knitted fabric of 0.4 ~ 0.6㎜ even after, after reducing the alkali dyeing, presetting, brushed, oil-based polyurethane impregnation, heat treatment, buffing at 100 ~ 150% pickup rate, characterized in that the finished Provided is a method of making a polyurethane impregnated suede knitted fabric using nanofilaments.

이하 본 발명을 보다 상세히 설명하기로 한다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

본 발명의 나노필라멘트를 사용한 폴리우레탄함침 스웨이드조 편직물의 제조방법에서 편직물의 구성사는 용출성분과 섬유형성 성분으로 구성된 용출후 단사섬도가 0.006~0.01데니아인 폴리에스터계 해도사와 20∼30%의 비수수축율을 가진 단사섬도 2∼3데니아의 고수축 폴리에스터계 필라멘트를 인터레이스한 인터레이스사를 사용한다. 본 발명의 최종제품인 스웨이드조 편직물의 소프트하고 볼륨감 있는 특성을 보유하기 위해서는 후가공 공정에서 해성분이 용출됨으로써 도성분의 단사섬유의 용출후 섬도가 0.006~0.01데니아인 것이 바람직하다. In the method of manufacturing a polyurethane-impregnated suede-like knitted fabric using the nanofilament of the present invention, the constituent yarn of the knitted fabric is composed of an eluting component and a fiber forming component, and a polyester-based island-in-the-sea yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.006 to 0.01 denia and a nonaqueous yarn of 20 to 30% The interlaced yarn which interlaced high shrinkage polyester filament of 2-3 denier with single yarn fineness which has shrinkage rate is used. In order to retain the soft and voluminous characteristics of the suede knitted fabric, which is the final product of the present invention, the sea component is eluted in the post-processing process, so that the fineness after elution of the single yarn fiber of the island component is preferably 0.006 to 0.01 denia.

또한, 상기 고수축 폴리에스터계 필라멘트는 편제직시에는 일반 원사와 동일한 물성을 보이지만 정련 및 염색공정에서 열수(熱水)를 만나면 고수축의 물성을 보이는 원사로서 특히, 본 발명에서는 20∼30%의 비수수축율을 보유한 필라멘트를 사용하는 것이 바람직하다. 상기 폴리에스터계 해도사와 고수축 폴리에스터계 필라멘트는 중량비율 60:40 ~ 80:20의 비율로 혼합되도록 인터레이스사를 구성하는 것이 형태안정성 측면에서 좋다. 이는 일반 폴리에스터계 필라멘트에 비해 2배 이상의 비수수축율을 보이며 본 발명에서와 같이 폴리에스터계 해도사와 공기교락되므로써 후의 축소가공에 의하여 폴리에스터계 해도사와 수축도의 차이에 의해 자연스러운 루프를 형성하고 기모공정이 용이해지며 직물의 스웨이드효과가 양호해지기 때문이다.
In addition, the high shrink polyester filament shows the same physical properties as the normal yarn when knitting, but when the hot water is met in the refining and dyeing process, the high shrinkage polyester filament is particularly 20 to 30% It is preferable to use a filament having a non-shrinkage ratio. The polyester-based island-in-the-sea yarn and the high-shrink polyester-based filament are preferably composed of interlaced yarns so as to be mixed at a weight ratio of 60:40 to 80:20. This shows a non-shrinkage ratio more than twice that of general polyester filaments, and natural loops are formed by the difference in shrinkage of polyester seams and shrinkage by the subsequent shrinkage process by air entanglement with polyester seams as in the present invention. This is because the process is easy and the suede effect of the fabric is improved.

상기 인터레이스사로 편직중량 260~290g/yd, 후도 0.40~0.60㎜의 인터록 편성물을 편직한 후, 알카리 감량한 후 염색하는데, 여기서 감량공정은 해도사의 극세화를 결정하는 중요 공정이기 때문에 알카리의 투입량 및 처리 시간 등이 중요하다. 일반 직물의 경우에는 로타리 와셔에서 가성소다를 1~10중량% 사용하여 95℃, 30분 처리하지만, 편직물의 경우에는 액류감량기에서 실시하여 형태안정성 유지에 도움을 주고, 알카리의 침투가 용이한 점이 있지만 고농도의 알카리를 사용할 경우 용출시 원사가 과도하게 감량되어 전체적인 품질의 저하를 일으킬 수 있으므로 0.5~1.5%(O.W.S)이내에서 가성소다 사용량을 결정하고, 처리온도는 직물의 경우와 동일한 85~95℃, 20~40분 정도로 처리해주어 해도사에서의 해성분을 녹여 내어 도성분만을 남기어 아주 미세한 스웨이드조 표면이 생성되도록 한다.Knitting weight of 260-290 g / yd and interlock knitted fabric of 0.40-0.60 mm thick after the interlaced yarn is reduced, and the weight is reduced after alkali, where the weight reduction process is an important process for determining the fineness of island-in-the-sea yarns. And processing time are important. In the case of general fabrics, caustic soda is used at 1 ~ 10% by weight in a rotary washer and treated at 95 ℃ for 30 minutes.However, in the case of knitted fabrics, it is carried out in a liquid reducer to help maintain shape stability, and it is easy to penetrate alkali. However, in case of using high concentration of alkali, the amount of caustic soda is determined within 0.5 ~ 1.5% (OWS) because the yarn is excessively reduced during elution, and the overall quality can be degraded. Process it for about 20 ~ 40 minutes to melt the sea component in sea island, leaving only the island component to create a very fine suede surface.

이때 감량율을 24~30% 내에서 조절하는 것이 바람직한데 24%미만에서는 감량에 따른 극세화 효과가 제대로 발현되지 않아 해도사 특유의 감촉이 발현되지 않으며, 30%초과시에는 지나친 감량에 따른 형태안정성 저하로 인하여 외관 불량 및 제품의 강도 저하 등을 초래하므로 주의를 하여야 한다.
At this time, it is desirable to control the reduction rate within 24 ~ 30%, but less than 24% does not express the microscopic effect according to the weight loss. Care must be taken because deterioration may cause poor appearance and deterioration of product strength.

상기 극세화된 편직물은 폴리우레탄함침시 안료의 색상에 따라 동일한 솔리드염색을 할 수 있고 경우에 따라서는 미염색하거나 안료와 다른 색상으로 염색하여 멜란지 효과를 얻을 수 있다. 고압 래피드 염색기에서 분산염료를 사용하여 염색할 수 있으며, 이때 분산염료는 폴리우레탄을 심하게 오염시키므로 환원세정을 수차례 실시하여 견뢰도 상승을 기할 수 있다.The ultra-fine knitted fabric can be the same solid dyeing according to the color of the pigment during polyurethane impregnation, and in some cases undyed or dyed in a different color than the pigment can be obtained a melange effect. In the high-pressure rapid dyeing machine can be dyed by using a disperse dye, the disperse dyes are heavily polluted polyurethane, so it can be performed by reducing the washing several times to increase the fastness.

이후 프리셋팅을 하게 되는데, 150~180℃ 조건하에서 속도 15~25m/min 행한다. 150℃미만에서는 편직물의 수축율이 저하하게 되며, 180℃초과시에는 열경화가 일어나 탄성이 저하되어 제품이 딱딱해지고 인열 강도, 인장 강도와 같은 전체적 물성이 저하되는 문제점이 발생할 수 있다.
After presetting, the speed is 15 ~ 25m / min under 150 ~ 180 ℃. If the temperature is less than 150 ° C., the shrinkage of the knitted fabric may be lowered. When the temperature is over 180 ° C., thermal curing may occur, resulting in a decrease in elasticity, resulting in stiffness of the product and deterioration of overall physical properties such as tear strength and tensile strength.

상기 프리셋팅이후 기모를 한 후, 100~150% 픽업율(Wet)로 유성 폴리우레탄함침을 하게 되는데, 폴리우레탄 함침은 폴리우레탄 탄성체가 갖는 특유의 유연한 탄성, 치밀한 구조 등에 의해 천연피혁에서와 같은 스웨이드조를 부여하기 위하여 수행된다. 폴리우레탄 함침공정은 대체로 기포를 폴리우레탄 수지용액에 함침한 후, 응고액에 침지하여 폴리우레탄을 응고시키고 수세, 건조하는 공정으로 이루어진다. 사용되는 폴리우레탄수지는 폴리올과 디이소시아네이트로 이루어진다. 상기 폴리올로서는 폴리에스테르계, 폴리에테르계, 폴리에테르에스테르 공중합계, 폴리카보네이트계 등을 들 수 있다. 폴리에테르계의 폴리올로서는 폴리에틸렌글리콜, 폴리프로필렌글리콜, 폴리테트라메틸렌글리콜 등이 있으며, 이들 중에서도 용융온도 및 2차전이온도가 낮고, 탄성회복 및 기계적 성질이 우수하고, 특히 내알카리성이 강한 폴리테트라메틸렌글리콜이 가장 바람직하다. 폴리에스테르계 폴리올은 폴리에테르계에 비해 가격이 저렴하고 염소수에 대한 내성이 강한 장점을 가지지만, 내가수분해성이 약하다는 단점이 있다.
After brushing after the presetting, oil-based polyurethane impregnation is performed at 100-150% pickup rate (Wet). Polyurethane impregnation is performed by the unique elasticity, dense structure, etc. It is performed to give a suede jaw. The polyurethane impregnation process generally consists of impregnating bubbles in a polyurethane resin solution and then immersing in the coagulation solution to solidify the polyurethane, wash with water, and dry. The polyurethane resin used consists of polyols and diisocyanates. As said polyol, polyester type, polyether type, polyether ester copolymer type, polycarbonate type, etc. are mentioned. Examples of polyether polyols include polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, and polytetramethylene glycol. Among them, polytetramethylene having low melting temperature and secondary transition temperature, excellent elastic recovery and mechanical properties, and particularly strong alkali resistance Most preferred is glycol. Polyester-based polyols have the advantages of low cost and strong resistance to chlorine water compared to polyether-based, but has the disadvantage of poor hydrolysis resistance.

그리고, 본 발명의 인공피혁 제조방법에서 사용되는 폴리우레탄수지는 계면활성제를 사용하여 물과 폴리우레탄의 접촉효과를 조절하여 응고속도를 조절하는 것이 바람직하다. 폴리우레탄수지에 계면활성제와 안료를 섞어 얻고자 하는 색상에 맞추어 안료(PIGMENT)를 투입한다. 폴리우레탄수지를 용제인 DMF에 녹인 후 스퀴징 롤러를 사용하여 일정한 압으로 스퀴즈하여 균일하게 폴리우레탄이 침투되어야 하고 그 후 30℃ 정도의 물과 15~30% DMF의 혼합용액에서 응고시키면서 동시에 응고를 시킨다. 온도가 너무 낮으면 탈 DMF가 되지 않고 응고 또한 지연되므로 온도조절에 주의해야 한다.In addition, the polyurethane resin used in the artificial leather manufacturing method of the present invention preferably controls the solidification rate by controlling the contact effect of water and polyurethane using a surfactant. Pigment is added to the polyurethane resin in accordance with the desired color by mixing the surfactant with the pigment. Dissolve the polyurethane resin in DMF, a solvent, and squeeze it with a constant pressure using a squeegee roller to uniformly infiltrate the polyurethane, and then solidify simultaneously while solidifying in a mixed solution of water at 30 ℃ and 15 ~ 30% DMF. Let If the temperature is too low, it will not become de-DMF and the coagulation will be delayed.

응고후 수세조에서 5∼7개의 망글로 스퀴즈하고 수세를 반복하여 완전한 수세와 탈 DMF를 완전히 한다. 수세조 온도는 60~80℃이다. 그 다음 텐터에서 건조시킨 후 사포를 사용하여 과함침된 표피층의 폴리우레탄을 균일하게 연마하여 원단내부에 분포된 선기모된 모우를 표피에 드러나게 해야 후에 감량된 해도사의 분할로 인한 소프트하고 볼륨감있는 스웨이드조가 나타날 수 있다.After coagulation, squeeze with 5-7 mangles in a washing tank and repeat washing with water to complete complete washing and de-DMF. The water bath temperature is 60-80 degreeC. Then, after drying in the tenter, the polyurethane of the over-impregnated epidermal layer was uniformly polished using sandpaper to expose the pre-brushed wool distributed in the fabric to the epidermis. Suede jaw may appear.

폴리우레탄함침은 상기와 같은 방법으로 폴리우레탄이 픽업율(Wet) 100~150% 되게 하고 응고, 수세시킨다. 탈 DMF가 되면서 DMF가 용출된 입자 크기는 약 0.2 ∼ 50 마이크로미터가 되어 일종의 투습방수효과도 나타낼 수 있다. 즉 빗물등은 입자크기가 수백 마이크로미터이고 인체에서 나오는 수증기는 0.005 마이크로미터 정도의 미세한 크기이므로 투습방수 효과가 있는 것이다.
Polyurethane impregnation allows the polyurethane to be 100-150% of the pickup rate (Wet) in the same manner as above, to solidify, washed with water. As the DMF becomes the DMF, the particle size of the DMF eluted is about 0.2 to 50 micrometers, which may also show a water vapor permeability effect. That is, rainwater, etc., has a particle size of several hundred micrometers and water vapor coming out of the human body has a microscopic size of about 0.005 micrometers, so that it is waterproof.

습식함침 후 원단을 텐터에서 130 ∼ 150℃에서 120초정도 열처리하여 건열세팅을 행한다. 폴리우레탄은 열경화성 수지이므로 온도가 150℃초과시에서는 황변되며 경화되어 터치가 하드해지므로 특히 주의해야 한다. 이후 버핑공정을 시행하여 폴리우레탄이 깎이면서 내부의 해도사가 도출될 수 있을 정도로 버핑을 실시한다. 버핑공정은 연동방법이 작업성이 뛰어나고 작업효율이 좋아 널리 보급되어 있다. 사포작업을 #180에서 부터 시작하여 점점 고운 #320으로 끝내는 방법이 효과적인데, 필요에 따라 이면은 #220으로 약하게 처리하는 것이 좋다.
After wet impregnation, the fabric is heat-treated at 130-150 ° C. for 120 seconds in a tenter to perform dry heat setting. Polyurethane is a thermosetting resin, so when the temperature exceeds 150 ° C, yellowing and curing become hard, and the touch becomes hard. Thereafter, the buffing process is performed so that the polyurethane is cut and buffing is performed so that the inner islands can be drawn. The buffing process is widely used because of its excellent workability and good work efficiency. It is effective to start sanding from # 180 and finish with finer # 320. If necessary, the backing is weakened with # 220.

이후 액류 감량기나 염색기에서 50℃에서부터 천천히 90℃까지 승온시켜 정련축소 공정을 실시하여 상기 편직원단을 충분히 수축시키고 안정시킨다. 사용약제는 음이온 계면활성제 1g/ℓ와 50% 수산화나트륨 0.5g/ℓ를 사용하여 정련축소한다. 본 정련축소공정에 의하여 원단의 생지폭이 50%정도까지 축소가 되고 후도의 증가가 이루어진다. 정련축소공정은 방사유제 제거 및 직물의 조직을 치밀하게 하여 원하는 후도와 폭을 얻기 위하여 염색기나 액류감량기등을 통하여 90℃에서 20분동안 실시한다.
Thereafter, the temperature is gradually increased from 50 ° C. to 90 ° C. in a liquid reducer or dyeing machine to perform a refinement reduction process to sufficiently shrink and stabilize the knitted fabric. Pharmaceutical agents are refined using 1 g / l anionic surfactant and 0.5 g / l 50% sodium hydroxide. The raw paper width of the fabric is reduced by 50% by the refining and shrinking process, and the thickening is increased. The refining reduction process is carried out for 20 minutes at 90 ° C. through a dyeing machine or a liquid reducer to obtain the desired thickness and width by removing the spinning oil and densifying the fabric structure.

그러므로 본 발명에 의하면 기존의 해도사보다 더 섬도가 가는 원사를 사용하여 염색성, 항필링성 및 염색견뢰도가 우수하면서도 기존의 해도사로 제조된 스웨이드조 편직물보다 얇고 부드러운 물성을 가지는 고품격의 극세사 스웨이드조 편직물을 제공할 수 있어 고급 IT제품의 케이스나 와이퍼(wiping cloth)용 제품등의 용도로 널리 전개할 수 있다.
Therefore, according to the present invention, using fine yarn finer than conventional islands and yarns, excellent fine dyeability, anti-pilling and dyeing fastness, but high-quality microfiber suede-like fabrics having a thinner and softer physical properties than suede yarns made of conventional islands It can be widely used in the case of high-end IT products and the product for wiping cloth.

도 1은 본 발명의 나노필라멘트를 사용한 폴리우레탄함침 스웨이드조 편직물의 30분 감량 후 구성사의 표면사진(×50)이며,
도 2는 본 발명의 나노필라멘트를 사용한 폴리우레탄함침 스웨이드조 편직물의 30분 감량 후 구성사의 측면사진(×1,000)이며,
도 3은 본 발명의 나노필라멘트를 사용한 폴리우레탄함침 스웨이드조 편직물의 30분 감량 후 구성사의 단면사진(×500)이며,
도 4는 본 발명의 나노필라멘트를 사용한 폴리우레탄함침 스웨이드조 편직물의 사진이며,
도 5 및 도 6은 본 발명의 나노필라멘트를 사용한 폴리우레탄함침 스웨이드조 편직물의 물성에 관한 시험성적서이다.
1 is a surface photograph (× 50) of the constituent yarn after a 30-minute weight loss of the polyurethane-impregnated suede knitted fabric using the nanofilament of the present invention,
Figure 2 is a side photograph (× 1,000) of the constituent yarn after 30 minutes of weight loss of the polyurethane-impregnated suede knitted fabric using the nanofilament of the present invention,
3 is a cross-sectional photograph (× 500) of the constituent yarn after 30 minutes of weight reduction of the polyurethane-impregnated suede-like knitted fabric using the nanofilament of the present invention,
Figure 4 is a photograph of a polyurethane impregnated suede knitted fabric using the nanofilament of the present invention,
5 and 6 are test reports on the physical properties of the polyurethane-impregnated suede knitted fabric using the nanofilament of the present invention.

이하 다음의 실시 예에서는 본 발명의 나노필라멘트를 사용한 폴리우레탄함침 스웨이드조 편직물의 제조방법에 대한 비한정적인 예시를 하고 있다.The following examples are given as non-limiting examples of the method for producing a polyurethane-impregnated suede knitted fabric using the nanofilament of the present invention.

[실시예 1]Example 1

도성분의 단사섬유의 용출후 섬도가 0.006~0.01데니아급 폴리에스터계 해도사(70d/18fila)와 단사섬도 2.5데니아인 고수축사(비수수축율 24%, 30d/12fila)를 교락하여 인터레이스사를 만들어 최종섬도를 100d/30fila가 되도록 준비하여 중량 280g/yd, 후도 0.6㎜의 인터록 편성물을 편직한 후, 가성소다를 중량 1.5%(o.w.s) 사용하여 95℃, 30분간 처리하여 감량율을 28%로 알칼리감량한 후, 130℃로 40분간 분산염료( Foron Yellow Brown RD-S (S type), Foron Rubine S-WF (S type), Foron Blue RD-E (S type)의 혼합형 2% owf)로 염색한 후, 160℃ 조건하에서 20분간 프리셋팅을 행하고 기모를 한 후, 120% 웨트픽업율로 유성 폴리우레탄함침을 한 후 원단을 텐터에서 130℃에서 120초정도 열처리하여 건열세팅을 행한 후 사포를 사용하여 과함침된 표피층의 폴리우레탄을 균일하게 연마하여 원단내부에 분포된 선기모된 모우를 표피에 드러나게 한 후 마무리하였다.  After elution of single-fiber fibers of inter-component fiber, interlaced yarns were made by interlacing 0.006 ~ 0.01 denier-type polyester island-in-the-sea yarn (70d / 18fila) and high-density yarn (non-shrinkage rate 24%, 30d / 12fila) with single yarn fineness 2.5 denier The final fineness was prepared to be 100d / 30fila, and the interlock knitted fabric weighing 280g / yd and the thickness of 0.6mm was knitted, and then the caustic soda was treated at 95 ° C. for 30 minutes using 1.5% by weight (ows) of weight loss by 28%. After reducing the weight with alkali, disperse dyes at 130 ℃ for 40 minutes (Foron Yellow Brown RD-S (S type), Foron Rubine S-WF (S type), Foron Blue RD-E (S type) mixed 2% owf) After dyeing with, do presetting and brushing for 20 minutes under 160 ℃ condition, and then impregnated with oil-based polyurethane at 120% wet pick-up rate, and heat-treated the fabric by heat treatment at 130 ℃ for 120 seconds in a tenter Using sandpaper, uniformly polish the polyurethane of the over-impregnated epidermal layer and distribute it inside the fabric. The raised wool was exposed to the epidermis and finished.

상기 실시예 1의 스웨이드조 편직물의 물성을 측정하여 다음 표 1에 나타내었다.The physical properties of the suede knitted fabric of Example 1 were measured and shown in Table 1 below.

평가항목Evaluation item 단위unit 수 치shame 평가방법Assessment Methods

실시예 1




Example 1


세탁 견뢰도Color fastness class 3급 이상Level 3 or higher ISO 105-C06ISO 105-C06
일광 견뢰도Daylight fastness class 3급Level 3 ISO 105-B02ISO 105-B02 마찰 견뢰도Color fastness class 4급 이상Level 4 or higher ISO 105-X12ISO 105-X12 필링성Peeling class 4급Grade 4 KS K 0502KS K 0502 마모강도Wear strength cyclecycle 20,000이상20,000 or more ASTM D4966ASTM D4966 후도After mmmm 0.60.6 후도계 법The affinity law

Claims (3)

용출후 단사섬도가 0.006~0.01데니아인 폴리에스터계 해도사와 20∼30%의 비수수축율을 가진 단사섬도 2∼3데니아의 고수축 폴리에스터계 필라멘트의 인터레이스사로 편직중량 260~290g/yd, 후도 0.4~0.6㎜의 인터록 편성물을 편직한 후, 0.5~1.5%(o.w.s) NaOH로 85~95℃하 30~40분간 감량율 24~30%로 알카리 감량한 후 염색, 프리셋팅, 기모, 100~150% 픽업율로 유성 폴리우레탄함침, 열처리, 버핑하여 완성하는 것을 특징으로 하는 나노필라멘트를 사용한 폴리우레탄함침 스웨이드조 편직물의 제조방법.
Knitting weight of 260 ~ 290g / yd, thickness of polyester-based island-in-the-sea yarn with single yarn fineness of 0.006 ~ 0.01 denier after elution and high shrinkage polyester filament with single shrink fineness of 2 ~ 3 denier with 20 ~ 30% non-shrinkage Knit 0.4 ~ 0.6mm interlock knitted fabric, reduce alkali by 0.5 ~ 1.5% (ows) NaOH at 85 ~ 95 ℃ for 30 ~ 40 minutes and reduce it at 24 ~ 30%, dyeing, presetting, brushing, 100 ~ A method for producing a polyurethane-impregnated suede knitted fabric using nanofilaments, characterized in that it is completed by oil-based polyurethane impregnation, heat treatment, and buffing at a 150% pickup rate.
삭제delete 제 1항에 있어서, 상기 프리셋팅은 150~180℃ 조건하에서 15~25m/min으로 행하는 것을 특징으로 하는 나노필라멘트를 사용한 폴리우레탄함침 스웨이드조 편직물의 제조방법.
The method of claim 1, wherein the presetting is performed at a temperature of 15 to 25 m / min under a condition of 150 to 180 ° C.
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