KR100962322B1 - Process Of Producing Suede-like Circular Knit Type Artificial Leather Having Rich Fullness - Google Patents

Process Of Producing Suede-like Circular Knit Type Artificial Leather Having Rich Fullness Download PDF

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KR100962322B1
KR100962322B1 KR1020080034578A KR20080034578A KR100962322B1 KR 100962322 B1 KR100962322 B1 KR 100962322B1 KR 1020080034578 A KR1020080034578 A KR 1020080034578A KR 20080034578 A KR20080034578 A KR 20080034578A KR 100962322 B1 KR100962322 B1 KR 100962322B1
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suede
artificial leather
heat treatment
washing
polyurethane
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KR1020080034578A
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Korean (ko)
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KR20090109234A (en
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박우양
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케이.엠.에프 주식회사
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06NWALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N3/00Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof
    • D06N3/12Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof with macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. gelatine proteins
    • D06N3/14Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof with macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. gelatine proteins with polyurethanes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/16Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics using jets or streams of turbulent gases, e.g. air, steam
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02JFINISHING OR DRESSING OF FILAMENTS, YARNS, THREADS, CORDS, ROPES OR THE LIKE
    • D02J1/00Modifying the structure or properties resulting from a particular structure; Modifying, retaining, or restoring the physical form or cross-sectional shape, e.g. by use of dies or squeeze rollers
    • D02J1/08Interlacing constituent filaments without breakage thereof, e.g. by use of turbulent air streams
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/16Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06BTREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B1/00Applying liquids, gases or vapours onto textile materials to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing or impregnating
    • D06B1/10Applying liquids, gases or vapours onto textile materials to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing or impregnating by contact with a member carrying the treating material
    • D06B1/14Applying liquids, gases or vapours onto textile materials to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing or impregnating by contact with a member carrying the treating material with a roller
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06BTREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B23/00Component parts, details, or accessories of apparatus or machines, specially adapted for the treating of textile materials, not restricted to a particular kind of apparatus, provided for in groups D06B1/00 - D06B21/00
    • D06B23/02Rollers
    • D06B23/021Compressive rollers
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C11/00Teasing, napping or otherwise roughening or raising pile of textile fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00Heating or cooling textile fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/37Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/564Polyureas, polyurethanes or other polymers having ureide or urethane links; Precondensation products forming them
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06NWALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N3/00Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof
    • D06N3/0002Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof characterised by the substrate
    • D06N3/0004Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof characterised by the substrate using ultra-fine two-component fibres, e.g. island/sea, or ultra-fine one component fibres (< 1 denier)
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06NWALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N3/00Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof
    • D06N3/0002Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof characterised by the substrate
    • D06N3/004Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof characterised by the substrate using flocked webs or pile fabrics upon which a resin is applied; Teasing, raising web before resin application

Abstract

본 발명은 극세사로 용출 가능한 폴리에스터 해도사(海島絲) 및 폴리에스터 분할복합사 중 어느 하나와 고수축 폴리에스터를 합사(인터레이스)하여 환편(CIRCULAR KNIT)하고, 감량, 염색, 건조, 양면기모, 건조, PU(POLYURETHANE)함침, 건조, 양면샌딩, 환원세정, 수세, 완성건조 공정을 거쳐 주머니, 보석 보관함, 전자제품 보관주머니 및 의류용에 차별화 제품으로 이용될 수 있는 우아한 느낌의 충진감이 풍부한 스웨드조 인공피혁의 제조방법에 관한 것이다. 본 발명에 의하면 용출후 염색 공정을 거친 극세사 기포지를 폴리우레탄함침하여 충진감이 있는 표면을 형성하고, 함침후 환원세정 공정을 진행함으로써 분산염료에 의한 염료이염(migration)이 없고 작업성이 우수한 장점이 있다.      The present invention is a composite yarn (CIRCULAR KNIT) by plying (interlacing) any one of the polyester islands and seams and polyester split composite yarns that can be eluted with microfiber, and reduced weight, dyeing, drying, brushing both sides After filling, drying, PU (POLYURETHANE) impregnation, drying, double-sided sanding, reduction washing, washing, and complete drying process, the elegant feeling of filling that can be used as a differentiated product in pockets, jewelry storage, electronics storage bags and clothing It relates to a manufacturing method of abundant suede-like artificial leather. Advantageous Advantages of the Invention According to the present invention, the surface of the microfiber cloth, which has undergone dyeing after elution, is impregnated with polyurethane to form a filling-filled surface. There is this.

인터레이스, 환편, 선감량, 스웨드조 인공피혁 Interlacing, circular knitting, weight loss, suede artificial leather

Description

충진감이 풍부한 환편조직의 스웨드조 인공피혁의 제조방법{Process Of Producing Suede-like Circular Knit Type Artificial Leather Having Rich Fullness}Process of Producing Suede-like Circular Knit Type Artificial Leather Having Rich Fullness}

본 발명은 주머니, 보석 보관함, 전자제품 보관주머니 및 의류용에 이용될 수 있는 우아한 느낌의 충진감이 풍부한 스웨드조 인공피혁의 제조방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a method of manufacturing suede-like artificial leather rich in elegant filling that can be used for pockets, jewelry storage, electronics storage bags and clothing.

인공 스웨드의 제조방법은 일반적으로 직물이나 트리코트(경편)의 표면사로 극세사를 사용하는데 보통 해도사(海島絲) 혹은 분할복합사를 사용하여 알카리 감량(용출공정)을 통해 극세사 형태로 도출되어지는데 그 메카니즘은 해성분이 이용성(易溶性) 폴리에스터를 사용하여 알카리에 매우 민감하게 가수분해되어 도성분인 일반 폴리에스터만이 남아 단사섬도 0.03~0.3 데니어의 극세사를 형성한다. 그 후 고압분산염료로 염색하여 후기모, 건조하여 완성후 경우에 따라서 폴리우레탄(이하 PU라 한다.)을 습식 코팅하여 사용하는데 이때 PU의 유기용제인 디메틸포름아마이드(DiMethyl Formamide:이하 DMF)가 사용되는데 이것이 고압분산염료의 탈색제로 작용되어 색상의 변화를 심하게 하는 단점이 있어 섬유업계의 큰 문제로 대두되었 다. 그러나 PU 습식 코팅 전에 염색지를 철저하게 환원세정하여 미고착염료 및 섬유사이에 존재하는 분산염료를 제거하여 주고 PU 습식 코팅 공정을 거치게 한다면, DMF에 의한 분산염료 탈색 현상을 막을 수 있다. The manufacturing method of artificial suede generally uses microfiber as the surface yarn of woven fabric or tricot, and it is usually derived from microfiber through alkali reduction (elution process) using sea island sand or split composite yarn. The mechanism is that the sea component is hydrolyzed very sensitive to alkali by using a water-soluble polyester, so that only the general polyester, which is a island component, remains, forming a microfiber of 0.03 to 0.3 denier. After that, dyed with high pressure dispersant, late hair, and dried, wet coating of polyurethane (hereinafter referred to as PU) is used in some cases. At this time, dimethyl formamide (DMF), an organic solvent of PU, It is used as a decolorizing agent of high pressure dispersant, which has a disadvantage of severe color change, which has become a big problem in the textile industry. However, if the dyeing paper is thoroughly reduced and washed before the PU wet coating to remove the disperse dye present between the unfixed dye and the fiber, and the PU wet coating process, dispersing dye discoloration by DMF can be prevented.

그러므로 본 발명에 의하면 상기 문제점을 해결하여 주머니, 보석 보관함, 전자제품 보관주머니 및 의류용에 차별화 제품으로 이용될 수 있는 우아한 느낌의 충진감이 풍부한 스웨드조 인공피혁을 분산염료에 의한 염료 이염이 없고 우수한 작업성으로 제공하는 것을 기술적과제로 한다.Therefore, according to the present invention solves the above problems, suede-like artificial leather rich in elegant feeling of filling that can be used as a differentiated product for pockets, jewelry storage, electronics storage bags and clothing, without dye transfer by dyes It is a technical task to provide with excellent workability.

본 발명에 의하면 환편조직의 스웨드조 인공피혁의 제조방법에 있어서, 용출성분과 섬유형성성분으로 구성되며 용출 후 단사섬도가 0.03~0.3데니어인 폴리에스터계 해도사 및 분할복합사 중 어느 하나에 20~50%의 비수수축율을 가지는 단사섬도 1~4 데니어의 고수축 폴리에스터 필라멘트사를 상호 인터레이스하여 사용원사로 하여 인터록 또는 이중지 조직으로 환편(CIRCULAR KNIT)하고, 선감량, 염색, 환원세정, 제1차열처리, 양면기모, 제2차열처리, 폴리우레탄함침, 제3차열처리, 양면샌딩, 환원세정, 배치식 맹글수세 및 제4차열처리를 하는 것을 특징으로 하는 충진감이 풍부한 환편조직의 스웨드조 인공피혁의 제조방법이 제공된다.According to the present invention, in the method of manufacturing suede-like artificial leather of circular knit tissue, it is composed of an eluting component and a fiber forming component and has a single yarn fineness of 0.03 to 0.3 denier after elution. CIRCULAR KNIT with interlocked or double-layered tissue with interlaced high shrinkage polyester filament yarn with 1 ~ 4 denier with non-shrinkage ratio of ~ 50% Filled circular knitting structure, characterized in that the first heat treatment, double-sided raising, second heat treatment, polyurethane impregnation, third heat treatment, double-sided sanding, reduced washing, batch mangung washing and fourth heat treatment Provided is a method for producing suede-like artificial leather.

이하 본 발명을 보다 상세히 설명하기로 한다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

본 발명의 충진감이 풍부한 환편조직의 스웨드조 인공피혁의 제조방법은 선감량을 특징으로 하는 방법으로서 공정순서는 다음과 같다. 생지 → 감량 → 염색 → 환원세정 → 열처리 →양면기모 → 열처리 → PU 함침→ 열처리 → 양면 샌딩 → 환원세정 → 수세 → 열처리 → 완성의 순서로 이루어진다. The method of manufacturing suede-like artificial leather of the circular knitting tissue rich in the feeling of filling according to the present invention is a method characterized by a reduction in weight. Dough → weight loss → dyeing → reduction washing → heat treatment → double-sided brushing → heat treatment → PU impregnation → heat treatment → double side sanding → reduction washing → washing → heat treatment → completion.

본 발명에서의 스웨드조 인공피혁 제조의 핵심이 되는 극세사는 일반적으로 해도형(海島形), 분할형, 직접방사형과 같은 제조방법에 의해 얻어질 수 있으나 본 발명에서는 이중에서 해도형과 분할형 극세사를 사용하여 각각의 특성에 맞는 스웨즈조 인공피혁을 제조한다. Microfibers, which are the core of suede artificial leather in the present invention, can be generally obtained by a manufacturing method such as sea island type, split type, and direct spinning type, but in the present invention, the islands and split type microfibers are doubled. Using to manufacture a suede-like artificial leather for each characteristic.

본 발명에서의 해도사 및 분할복합사의 제조방법은 다음과 같다. 우선 해성분은 알카리에 쉽게 용해될 수 있는 분자구조를 가져야 하기 때문에 일반 폴리에스터(REGULAR POLYESTER)를 개질하여 상기 일반 폴리에스터보다 감량속도가 40배 이상 빠른 성분으로 해성분을 제조하고, 도성분은 일반 폴리에스터를 사용하여 제조된 해도사 또는 분할복합사를 알카리감량하게 되면 해성분이 용출되어 도성분인 일반 폴리에스터만 남아 단사섬도 0.03~0.3데니어인 폴리에스터 극세사가 만들어지게 된다. 인터레이스사는 상기 폴리에스터계 해도사 또는 분할복합사와 고수축 폴리에스터계 필라멘트의 교락사를 일컫는데, 본 발명에서는 폴리에스터계 극세사(해도사 또는 분할복합사)와 단사섬도 1~4 데니아의 고수축 폴리에스터계 필라멘트를 공기교락(인터레이스)한 교락사를 사용하는 것이 바람직하다. The manufacturing method of the island-in-the-sea yarn and the divided composite yarn in the present invention is as follows. First, since the sea component should have a molecular structure that can be easily dissolved in alkali, the sea component is manufactured by modifying a general polyester (REGULAR POLYESTER) with a component 40 times faster than the normal polyester to reduce the weight. Alkaline reduction of the island-in-the-sea yarn or the composite composite yarn manufactured using the general polyester causes the sea component to be eluted, leaving only the general polyester, which is the island component, to make a polyester microfiber having a single yarn fineness of 0.03 to 0.3 denier. Interlaced yarn refers to the interlocking yarn of the polyester-based islands or split composite yarn and the high shrink polyester filament, in the present invention, the high shrinkage of polyester-based microfiber yarn (sea island or divided composite yarn) and single yarn fineness 1 ~ 4 denier It is preferable to use the entangled yarn which air-interlaced the polyester filament.

본 발명에서 사용하는 고수축 폴리에스터계 필라멘트는 편제직시에는 일반 원사와 동일한 물성을 보이지만 정련 및 염색공정에서 열수(熱水)를 만나면 고수축 의 물성을 보이는 원사이다. 본 발명에서 폴리에스터계 필라멘트는 20~50%의 비수수축율을 보유한 필라멘트를 사용하는 것이 바람직하며 이는 일반 폴리에스터계 필라멘트에 비해 2배 이상의 비수수축율을 보유하여 폴리에스터계 해도사와 공기교락됨으로써 후의 축소가공에 의하여 폴리에스터계 해도사 또는 분할복합사와의 수축도의 차이에 의해 자연스러운 루프를 형성하고 기모공정이 용이해지며 직물의 스웨이드효과가 양호해지게 된다. The high shrink polyester filament used in the present invention is a yarn that shows the same physical properties as a normal yarn when knitted, but exhibits high shrinking properties when hot water is encountered in refining and dyeing processes. In the present invention, the polyester filament preferably uses a filament having a non-shrinkage ratio of 20 to 50%, which has a non-shrinkage ratio of 2 times or more than that of a general polyester filament, thereby reducing post-air shrinkage due to air entanglement with polyester islands Due to the difference in shrinkage with the polyester-based islands or divided composite yarns by processing, a natural loop is formed, the raising process is facilitated, and the suede effect of the fabric is improved.

환편작업(CIRCULAR KNIT)은 상기 원사인 극세사로 용출 가능한 폴리에스터 해도사(海島絲) 및 폴리에스터 분할복합사 중 어느 하나와 고수축 폴리에스터 필라멘트를 합사(인터레이스)한 인터레이스사로 환편하는데 생지 중량은 150~500그램/야드가 되도록 게이지를 22~40에서 조정하여 편직한다. 특히, 150~300그램/야드, 22~28게이지로 조절하면 가벼우면서 활동성이 뛰어난 의류용으로 사용하는데 바람직하고, 300~500그램/야드, 32~40게이지로 조절하면 밀도가 높고 중량감이 있는 작은 주머니용이나 패턴물의 패치용으로 사용하는데 바람직한 스웨드 제품을 제공할 수 있다. 환편은 인터록 또는 이중지 조직으로 하는 것이 최종제품인 스웨드조 인공피혁의 양면기모를 하여 충진감을 갖게 하는 물성을 발현하는데 바람직하다.Circular knitting (CIRCULAR KNIT) is a circular knitting yarn interlaced with any one of the polyester seaweed yarn and polyester split composite yarn which can be eluted with the microfiber, and the high shrink polyester filament. Knit the gauge by adjusting the gauge from 22-40 to 150-500 grams / yard. Particularly, it is preferable to use 150 ~ 300g / yard, 22 ~ 28 gauge for light and active clothes, and to adjust 300 ~ 500g / yard, 32 ~ 40 gauge for high density and small weight Suede products can be provided that are suitable for use in pockets or for patching patterned materials. The circular knitting is preferably used for interlocking or double-paper tissue to express the properties of filling both sides of the suede artificial leather, which is the final product.

상기 환편지를 상압감량기에서 통상적인 감량을 하여 해성분을 용출하여 도성분인 일반 폴리에스터만 남겨 단사섬도 0.03~0.3데니어인 폴리에스터 극세사를 형성한다. 이렇게 본 발명에서는 상기 환편지를 선감량하는 것이 특징인데, 선감량을 통하여 원사를 용출시켜 극세화하여 충만감을 갖게 한다. 이는 함침공정에서 극세화된 원사사이에 폴리우레탄을 자리잡도록 하여 충진감이 우수한 스웨드를 만드 는 역할을 한다. The circular knitted fabric is conventionally reduced in an atmospheric pressure reducer to elute the sea component to form a polyester microfiber having a single yarn fineness of 0.03 to 0.3 denier, leaving only ordinary polyester as an island component. Thus, in the present invention, the circular knitted fabric is reduced in weight, and the yarn is eluted through the reduced weight to make the microfiber to be full. This allows the polyurethane to be placed between the microscopic yarns in the impregnation process, making the suede with excellent filling.

선감량후 염색공정을 거치게 되는데 본 발명에서 사용되는 염료는 우레탄에 이염(MIGRATION)이 적은 염료를 사용해야 한다. 염색이 끝난 편물을 환원세정을 하고 제1차열처리하는데, 온도 180~200℃에서 50초~100초동안 열을 받을 수 있도록 텐터(TENTER)속도를 유지한다. 변부쪽의 말림을 방지하기 위하여 멜라민 수지를 사용하여 변부를 커팅하여야 코팅작업시 작업이 원만해질 수 있다. 본 발명의 선감량시 분산염료의 PU로의 오염이 발생하는데 이를 방지하기 위하여 PU 함침전에 철처하게 환원세정을 하여야 한다. 또한 오염된 염료는 PU 함침후 환원세정 공정을 거쳐 다시 한번 제거해 준다.After reduction, dyeing process is used. The dye used in the present invention should use a dye having a low MIGRATION in urethane. After dyeing, the knitted fabric is reduced washed and subjected to the first heat treatment, and maintains a tenter speed to receive heat for 50 seconds to 100 seconds at a temperature of 180 to 200 ° C. To prevent curling on the side, cut the side using melamine resin, so that the work can be smoothed during coating. In the reduction of the present invention, contamination of the dispersed dye occurs with PU. In order to prevent this, reduction and washing should be thoroughly performed before PU impregnation. In addition, contaminated dye is removed once again through a reduction and washing process after PU impregnation.

이후 환편지를 양면기모하는데, 본 발명의 스웨드조 인공피혁은 기모의 정도에 따라 중량감을 달리할 수 있으며 또한 후도를 조정할 수 있다. Since both sides of the circular knitted brush, suede-like artificial leather of the present invention can vary the weight depending on the degree of raising and can also adjust the thickness.

상기 양면기모후 제2차열처리에 의한 건조공정이 끝난 편직물은 폴리우레탄 탄성체를 코팅하여 충진시켜 촉촉하고 탄력감이 있는 물성을 발현하게 한다. 여기서 사용하는 폴리우레탄 탄성체는 고형분이 30~40% 정도인 폴리에테르계 또는 폴리에스터계의 폴리우레탄을 사용하는 것이 좋다. 본 발명에서는 선감량을 통하여 알카리 처리를 완성한 기재를 함침하기 때문에 폴리에테르계 및 폴리에스터계 모두를 사용하여도 무방하다. 용제로는 범용적으로 사용하고 있는 4,4'-디메틸포름아마이드를 사용한다. 폴리우레탄은 특유의 점성으로 단독으로 사용하기 곤란하므로 용제와 혼합하여 교반하게 되는데, 이때 폴리우레탄과 용제의 혼합 비율은 1:1~1:3으로 하여 고형분 농도가 10±3% 정도가 되도록 1시간 정도 충분히 교반시켜 사용하고 탈포공정을 실시하여 공기방울을 제거하여야 완제품상의 핀홀을 예방할 수 있다. After the double-sided brushing, the knitted fabric of the drying process by the second heat treatment is coated with a polyurethane elastic material to fill and express a moist and elastic property. As the polyurethane elastic body used here, it is preferable to use polyurethane of polyether type or polyester type whose solid content is about 30 to 40%. In the present invention, since the base material having the alkali treatment is impregnated through the reduction in weight, both polyether and polyester may be used. As the solvent, 4,4'-dimethylformamide, which is generally used, is used. Polyurethane is difficult to be used alone due to its unique viscosity, so it is mixed with a solvent and stirred. At this time, the mixing ratio of the polyurethane and the solvent is 1: 1 to 1: 3 so that the solid content concentration is about 10 ± 3%. It is necessary to use enough stirring for a time and perform a defoaming process to remove air bubbles to prevent pinholes on the finished product.

함침할 때의 폴리우레탄 충진량은 스웨드 전체 중량 대비 10~40%인 것으로 하는데 충진량이 10% 미만인 경우에는 폴리우레탄 충진에 따른 손에 쥐었을 때의 탄력감이 적고, 40% 초과인 경우에는 편직물 스웨드 고유의 표면 효과 보다는 폴리우레탄 충진제의 느낌이 너무 강하게 발현되므로 곤란하다. 상기 폴리우레탄함침시 맹글의 상부 로울러와 하부로울러 사이의 간격을 0.1~1mm로 하여 함침하는 것이 충진량을 원하는 정도로 조절하는데 적합하다. 탈포가 끝난 PU 용액을 후도 편물 후도의 90%에 맞추어 스퀴즈하여 응고조로 이송하여 응고시킨 후 수세조에서 충분히 수세를 하여 인출한다. The amount of polyurethane filling when impregnated is 10 to 40% of the total weight of suede. If the filling amount is less than 10%, the elasticity of hand-held by polyurethane filling is less. It is difficult because the feeling of the polyurethane filler is expressed too strongly rather than the surface effect of. When impregnating the polyurethane with the gap between the upper roller and the lower roller of the mangle to 0.1 ~ 1mm, it is suitable to control the filling amount to the desired degree. After defoaming, the PU solution is squeezed to 90% of the thickness of the after-knitted fabric, transferred to the coagulation bath, and coagulated.

상기 폴리우레탄 충진이 완료된 환편지를 텐터(TENTER)에서 110~130℃에서 80~120초간 제3차열처리하여 건조시키는데 건조시 처리 속도는 80초 미만에서는 충분한 세팅 효과가 발현되지 않아 중량 및 폭을 제대로 발현할 수 없고, 120초 초과시에는 과도한 건조에 따른 딱딱한 촉감 발현으로 스웨드 고유의 효과를 발현할 수 없게 된다. 건조가 완료된 원단을 150~240번 사포를 사용하여 양면샌딩 처리하여 편직물 스웨드 표면 및 이면에 부착되어 있는 폴리우레탄 충진제를 제거한다. 이후 염색기 내에서 다시 한번 환원세정 처리를 하고 수세하여 텐터(TENTER)에서 110~130℃에서 80~120초간 제4차열처리하여 건조시킨다. 온도가 130℃ 초과하면 우레탄이 경화되기 시작하여 촉감이 딱딱해지기 때문이다. The polyurethane filled circular knitted fabric is dried by a third heat treatment for 80 to 120 seconds at 110 to 130 ° C. in a tenter, but the drying speed is less than 80 seconds, so that a sufficient setting effect is not expressed, resulting in weight and width. If it is not properly expressed, and in excess of 120 seconds, the hard touch of excessive dryness may not be able to express suede-specific effects. The finished fabric is double-sided sanded using sandpaper 150-240 to remove the polyurethane fillers attached to the surface and back of the knitted suede. After the reduction and washing process again in the dyeing machine and washed with a tenter (TENTER) and dried by the fourth heat treatment for 80 to 120 seconds at 110 ~ 130 ℃. This is because the urethane starts to cure when the temperature exceeds 130 ° C. and the touch becomes hard.

본 발명에 의해 주머니, 보석 보관함, 전자제품 보관주머니 및 의류용에 차 별화 제품으로 이용될 수 있는 우아한 느낌의 충진감이 풍부한 스웨드조 인공피혁을 분산염료에 의한 염료 이염이 없고 우수한 작업성으로 제공할 수 있다.The present invention provides suede-like artificial leather rich in elegant filling that can be used as a differentiated product for pouches, jewelry storage bags, electronics storage bags and clothes, without dye dye transfer by disperse dyes, and excellent workability. can do.

이하 다음의 실시예에서는 본 발명의 스웨드조 극세사 편직물을 제조하는 비한정적인 예시를 하고 있다.The following examples are given as non-limiting examples of producing the suede-like microfiber knitted fabric of the present invention.

[실시예 1]Example 1

사용원사로 감량공정을 거쳐 도성분의 최종섬도가 0.25데니어인 폴리에스터 분할복합사와 단사섬도 2.5데니어인 고수축 폴리에스터 필라멘트(비수수축율 40%)를 미터당 70개의 교락수를 가지게 인터레이스한 최종 섬도가 110데니어인 인터레이스사를 사용하여 28게이지 인터록 환편지를 제조한다. 제조된 환편물을 바로 상압 감량기에서 95℃에서 20분간 98%농도의 수산화나트륨(20그램/ℓ)를 사용하여 감량한다. 그 다음 고압염색기에서 130℃에서 폴리우레탄으로의 이염에 강한 분산염료로 염색을 실시한 후 텐터에서 190℃에서 80초간 제1차열처리하여 건조한다. 이와 같이 완성된 염색지를 표면과 이면 각각 8~12회 기모하여 다시 190℃에서 80초간 제2차열처리한다. 고형분 30%인 폴리에테르계 폴리우레탄과 4,4'-디메틸포름아마이드가 1:1.5의 비율로 희석된 폴리우레탄 용액에 함침시켜 응고조를 통과시켜 응고시키고 수세조를 통과시켜 충분히 수세시킨다. 이를 130℃에서 100초간 제3차열처리하여 건조한 후에 150메쉬의 사포로 양면 샌딩처리한 후, 액류 염색기에서 80℃, 20분간 2중량 %의 산성 환원세정제를 투입하여 환원세정 처리하고, 표면 및 이면에 남아 있는 기모 잔류물을 제거하기 위하여 맹글 수세 방식에서 철저하게 수세하고, 다시 130℃에서 100초간 제4차열처리하여 건조하여 최종적으로 54인치 300그램/야드짜리 스웨드조 인공피혁을 제조하였다. The final fineness of interlacing polyester split composite yarns with final fineness of 0.25 denier and high shrinking polyester filament (40% non-shrinkage ratio) having 70 denier per meter after metering process A 28-gauge interlock circular letter was prepared using an interlaced yarn of 110 denier. The prepared circular knitted fabric is immediately reduced in an atmospheric pressure reducer using sodium hydroxide (20 g / l) at a concentration of 98% for 20 minutes at 95 ° C. Then, the dye is stained with a disperse dye resistant to polyurethane dyeing at 130 ° C. in a high pressure dyeing machine and then dried by first heat treatment at 190 ° C. for 80 seconds in a tenter. The finished dyeing paper was brushed 8-12 times on the front and back surfaces, respectively, and subjected to second heat treatment at 190 ° C. for 80 seconds. Polyether-based polyurethane having a solid content of 30% and 4,4'-dimethylformamide are impregnated in a diluted polyurethane solution at a ratio of 1: 1.5, solidified by passing through a coagulation bath, and washed sufficiently by passing through a washing tank. After the third heat treatment at 130 ℃ for 100 seconds and dried, sanded both sides with 150 mesh sandpaper, and then reduced washing process by adding 2% by weight of an acidic reducing detergent at 80 ℃, 20 minutes in a liquid dyeing machine, the surface and back In order to remove the brushed residue remaining in the rinse thoroughly in a mangled water washing method, and dried again by a fourth heat treatment for 100 seconds at 130 ℃ finally to produce a 54 inch 300 grams / yard suede artificial leather.

[비교예 1]Comparative Example 1

실시예 1의 제조방법과 동일하게 스웨드조 극세사 편직물을 제조하고 습식 폴리우레탄 함침을 진행하지 않고 감량, 염색, 기모하여 제품을 완성하였다. A suede-like microfiber knit fabric was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, and the product was finished by weight reduction, dyeing, and raising without proceeding with wet polyurethane impregnation.

실시예 1과 비교예 1의 공정의 특징을 표1로 나타내었다. The characteristics of the process of Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 are shown in Table 1.

구분division 공정fair 실시예1 Example 1 생지→감량→염색→환원세정→열처리→기모→열처리→PU함침→PU응고→PU수세→열처리→양면샌딩→환원세정→배치식 맹글수세→열처리→검사완성Dough → reduction → dye → reduction cleaning → heat treatment → napping → heat treatment → PU impregnation → PU coagulation → PU washing → heat treatment → double-side sanding → reduction washing → batch-type mangle washing → heat treatment → test completion 비교예1Comparative Example 1 생지→감량→염색→환원세정→열처리→기모→열처리→검사완성Dough → reduction → dye → reduction cleaning → heat treatment → napping → heat treatment → test completion

구분division 세탁견뢰도Color fastness 일광견뢰도Daylight fastness 외관품질Appearance quality 실시예 1Example 1 4급Grade 4 3.5급Class 3.5 스웨드감 우수Excellent suede feeling 비교예 1Comparative Example 1 3급Level 3 3급Level 3 스웨드감 미흡Insufficient suede

Claims (3)

환편조직의 스웨드조 인공피혁의 제조방법에 있어서, In the manufacturing method of suede-like artificial leather of circular knitting, 용출성분과 섬유형성성분으로 구성되며 용출 후 단사섬도가 0.03~0.3데니어인 폴리에스터계 해도사 및 분할복합사 중 어느 하나에 20~50%의 비수 수축율을 가지는 단사섬도 1~4 데니어의 고수축 폴리에스터 필라멘트사를 상호 인터레이스하여 사용원사로 하여 인터록 또는 이중지 조직으로 환편(CIRCULAR KNIT)하고, 선감량, 염색, 환원세정, 제1차열처리, 양면기모, 제2차열처리, 폴리우레탄함침, 제3차열처리, 양면샌딩, 환원세정, 배치식 맹글수세 및 제4차열처리를 하는 것을 특징으로 하는 충진감이 풍부한 환편조직의 스웨드조 인공피혁의 제조방법.High shrinkage of single yarn fineness of 1 ~ 4 denier with non-aqueous shrinkage of 20 ~ 50% in either polyester-based islands and split composite yarns composed of eluting component and fiber forming component and having single yarn fineness of 0.03 ~ 0.3 denier after elution Interlacing polyester filament yarns to be used yarns as interlocks or double-layered fabrics, and then reducing, dyeing, reducing washing, first heat treatment, double-sided brushing, second heat treatment, polyurethane impregnation, A method of manufacturing suede-like artificial leather of rich circular knit tissue, characterized in that the third heat treatment, double-sided sanding, reduced washing, batch mangung washing and fourth heat treatment. 제 1항에 있어서, 상기 환편공정에서 게이지 22~40으로 조정하고 생지 중량 150~500그램/야드로 편직하는 것을 특징으로 하는 충진감이 풍부한 환편조직의 스웨드조 인공피혁의 제조방법.The method of manufacturing suede-like artificial leather of the circular knitting tissue rich in filling feeling according to claim 1, wherein the circular knitting process is adjusted to gauges 22 to 40 and knitted at 150 to 500 grams / yard of dough. 제 1항에 있어서, 상기 폴리우레탄함침시 맹글의 상부 로울러와 하부로울러 사이의 간격을 0.1~1mm로 하여 함침하는 것을 특징으로 하는 충진감이 풍부한 환편조직의 스웨드조 인공피혁의 제조방법.The method of manufacturing suede-like artificial leather of a circular knitting tissue rich in filling feeling according to claim 1, wherein the polyurethane impregnated is impregnated with a gap between an upper roller and a lower roller of 0.1 to 1 mm.
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KR101963041B1 (en) * 2017-09-29 2019-03-28 (주)엘지하우시스 Knitted SUEDE and its manufacturing method
CN115717331A (en) * 2022-11-28 2023-02-28 世联汽车内饰(苏州)有限公司 Preparation method of suede

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