KR20010054656A - Skin care composition containing Linseed extract and α-Hydroxy acid - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: A cosmetic composition for preventing the skin containing α-hydroxyacid and a linseed extract and capable of decreasing the irritation on the skin of α-hydroxy acid is provided, which effectively improves skin irritation. CONSTITUTION: This composition contains 0.01 to 10.0% by weight of a linseed extract and 0.01 to 20% by weight of α-hydroxy acid used for improving wrinkles, freckles, hyperpigmentation in skin. The linseed extract is prepared by extracting linseed powder with water, acetone, ethylacetate, 1,3-butyleneglycol aqueous solutions.

Description

Skin care composition containing Linseed extract and α-Hydroxy acid}

The present invention relates to a skin care cosmetic composition containing linseed extract (α-Hydroxy acid (AHA)).

Skin, the largest organ that makes up the human body, protects various organs inside the skin from the outside and provides various physiological functions such as barrier function, temperature control function, excretion function, respiratory function, etc. It is a very important organization in charge.

However, as the skin ages, the thickness of the skin becomes thinner, so that the skin barrier function is lowered, and the skin's physiological function decreases due to the drastic decrease in the moisture content of the skin. In addition, highly reactive free radicals and free radicals generated by increased UV radiation, air pollution, excessive fatigue and stress of modern people, oxidize or denature biological components such as proteins, nucleic acids and cell membrane lipids, thereby deteriorating skin's physiological function. It causes skin irritation to occur easily by external small stimulation sources. In addition, skin irritation such as wrinkles, blemishes, freckles, and pigmentation occurs as the skin ages.

Therefore, in order to improve the above problems, using alpha hydroxy acid (AHA: α-Hydroxy Acid) to improve the skin by promoting the exfoliation and the activity of the skin cells, it will be described in detail as follows.

The alpha hydroxy acid (AHA: α-Hydroxy Acid) is a compound in which an alcohol group or an hydroxy group is added to the carbon at the α position of the carboxylic acid to give ionic binding energy of keratinocytes. By lowering the dead skin cells or promoting the formation of new cells to shorten the period of keratinization process, which is longer as the skin ages, it promotes the activity of skin cells to improve the skin. In addition, by promoting the production of collagen (Collagen) and elastin (Elastin) by the fibroblasts to make the skin elastic, soft and promote the production of mucopolysaccharides, an important extracellular matrix component of the dermis Improves skin moisturizing

Alpha hydroxy acid, which has such a function, has been used for a long time. The ancient Egyptians used to bathe lactic acid, a type of alpha hydroxy acid produced when fermented milk to keep skin healthy and beautiful. 200 years ago, French aristocrats applied old wine to their faces to keep their skin soft and clean, including malic and tartaric acid, the alpha-hydroxy acids found in old wine. I used it.

Alpha hydroxy acid, which has been used for a long time as described above, has recently been patented by Dr.EJScott, a dermatologist at Temple University Hospital in the United States for the prevention and improvement of pigmentation deposition (clinical experiment) such as anti-aging, acne improvement, blemishes and freckles (USP4105783). ) Has been registered, a number of patents associated with it.

Currently, alpha hydroxy acid is fermented milk or lactic acid (Lactic acid, MW = 90.08) obtained by enzymatic reaction, citric acid (MW = 210.14) which is contained in fruit such as lemon or orange, apple, grape, strawberry, etc. Large amounts of malic acid (Malic acid, MW = 130.98) and tartaric acid (Tartaric acid, MW = 150.09) obtained from grapes are widely used. In particular, lactic acid is excellent in cell regeneration effect, moisture control effect and hyper keratin removal effect, and is the most used as cosmetics in AHA due to low skin irritation.

On the other hand, glycolic acid (Giycolic acid, MW = 76.05) obtained from sugar cane has the smallest molecular weight among AHAs, so the skin penetrates quickly, so it is effective, but there are problems such as severe irritation in the skin and lack of balanced peeling. Its use is limited.

Therefore, various studies have recently been conducted to solve the skin irritation of AHA, and among them, the use of BHA as an alternative substrate is mentioned.

The beta hydroxy acid (BHA: β-Hydroxy Acid) is a compound having a structure attached to the alcohol group (Alcohol group) or hydroxy group (Hydroxyl group) on the carbon at the β position of the carboxylic acid (Carboxylic acid) molecular weight (105-194 ) Is larger than AHA (76.1-210.1), so it does not penetrate easily into the skin and is expected to have less skin irritation. However, the skin irritation caused by BHA is also very large and there is a problem as an alternative substrate of AHA, such as less skin moisturizing effect, cell regeneration effect, whitening effect, wrinkle improvement effect, skin elasticity effect and the like compared to AHA.

In addition to the problems described above, by using AHA alone, it may react with a substance in the skin to produce or neutralize salts (SALT), thereby reducing its effectiveness. In addition, in order to have physiological activity, the acidity (pH) of the product should be between 2 and 3, which is accompanied by very strong irritation to the skin, ie burning, redness, dryness and other side effects of the skin.

Therefore, the encapsulation of AHA in the form of liposomes reduces the skin irritation by formulating a pH between 5 and 6, but at this time, the effect is less effective. Nowadays, various types of fruit acids (AHA) and its derivatives are combined to form an AHA complex (Complex). ), Various attempts have been made to minimize the skin irritation caused by acidity (pH 3.8-4.0) and increase the effect. However, skin irritation remains, and research is needed to solve it.

An object of the present invention is to solve the above problems, the flax extract in alpha hydroxy acid (AHA: α-Hydroxy Acid) that can improve skin wrinkles and keratin removal, blemishes, freckles, pigmentation It is to provide a skin protective cosmetic composition that can be contained to alleviate the skin irritation of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA: α-Hydroxy Acid).

In order to achieve this object, the present invention is characterized in that it contains 0.01-10.0% by weight of flax extract and 0.01-20.0% by weight of alpha hydroxy acid based on the dry weight of the cosmetic.

Hereinafter, the configuration of the present invention in more detail as follows.

The present invention relates to a skin care cosmetic composition containing flax extract and alpha hydroxy acid (AHA: α-Hydroxy Acid), more specifically, it can improve pigmentation, such as skin wrinkles and keratin removal, blemishes, freckles The present invention relates to a skin protective cosmetic composition capable of alleviating skin irritation by containing flax extract in alpha hydroxy acid.

Linum usitatissimum L. is an annual herb, 30-100 cm high, with narrow willow leaves and oval fruit with 10 seeds. The seeds contain 48% dry oil, 20% protein, 12-20% carbohydrates, 3-9% hydrolyzed polysaccharides (mucus), small amounts of other amino acids, organic acids, linochinamarin, linamarin, and the like.

Flax ( Linum usitatissimum L.) extract of the present invention is extracted from the mucus portion of flaxseed excellent excellent hamyeong action, look at this in detail as follows.

The flax extract is washed with clean water, dried, and then finely powdered, and then dried on flaxseed by using water, acetone, ethyl acetate, or 1,3-butylene glycol aqueous solution as powder. It is added in an amount of -15 vol. Times, heated at 50-95 ° C. for 1-20 hours in an extractor equipped with a cooling capacitor, and the extraction solvent is obtained by concentrating under reduced pressure in a distillation apparatus equipped with a cooling capacitor.

Alternatively, the flaxseed powder is added to the flaxseed powder in an amount of 1 to 15 times by volume based on the dry weight of flaxseed using water, acetone, ethyl acetate or 1,3-butylene glycol aqueous solution as an extraction solvent, and 1-15 at 5-40 ° C. After dipping for one day to extract the active ingredient, the extraction solvent is obtained by concentrating under reduced pressure in a distillation apparatus equipped with a cooling capacitor.

Linum usitatissimum L. extract obtained as described above comprises 30-35% of protein (beta-glucan), uronic acids (Uronic acids), peptide glycans (Peptidoglycans) as an active ingredient, It consists of 40-45% of sugar and 4-6% of uronic acids and is formulated at 0.01-10.0% by weight, preferably 0.1-5.0% by weight, based on the dry weight of the cosmetic.

In addition, the AHA is not limited in its kind to glycolic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, etc., which are usually used in cosmetics, and are formulated at 0.01-20.0% by weight, preferably 0.01-10.0% by weight, based on the dry weight of the cosmetic. do.

The cosmetic composition containing the flax extract and AHA is particularly limited in the formulations such as supple cosmetics, astringent cosmetics, nourishing cosmetics, eye cream, nutrition cream, massage cream, cleansing cream, cleansing foam, cleansing water, powder, essence, pack The flax extract can be suitably selected and blended with other ingredients other than AHA according to the cosmetic formulation or use purpose.

The following is described in more detail with reference to the following embodiments of the present invention configured as described above. However, these examples are intended to illustrate the present invention, it is obvious to those skilled in the art that the scope of the present invention is not limited to these examples. Compounding amount is shown by weight%.

Example: Cream Preparation

Ingredient Example Comparative example AHA (lactic acid) 10.0 10.0 2. Flax Extract 4.0 - 3. Vaseline 7.0 7.0 4. Liquid paraffin 10.0 10.0 5. Beeswax 2.0 2.0 6. Polysorbate 60 2.0 2.0 7. Solbitan Sesquioleate 2.5 2.5 8. Squalane 3.0 3.0 9. Propylene Glycol 6.0 6.0 10. Glycerin 4.0 4.0 11.Triethanolamine 0.5 0.5 12. Carboxyvinyl Polymer 0.5 0.5 13. Tocopheryl Acetate 0.1 0.1 14. Incense, preservative a very small amount a very small amount 15. Purified water to 100 to 100

Manufacturing method:

1) Warm the raw material 3-8 to 70 ° C while stirring to make an oily solution.

2) Add raw materials 9-10 and 12-13 to purified water and warm to 70 ° C. while stirring to prepare an aqueous solution.

3) The oily solution 1) and the raw material 11 are mixed with 2), and then emulsified and cooled.

4) The raw materials 1-2 and 14 are added to 3), mixed, and cooled to 30 degreeC.

Test Example: Patch Test

By measuring flax extract of the present invention, a cosmetic composition containing only AHA and a cosmetic composition containing only AHA as an example and a comparative example, the skin stability was measured, 40 subjects (mean age 22 years old, age distribution 19-34 3) The skin patch test was performed on the upper arm using the composition of the group A and B divided into groups A and B, and the composition of the comparative example B to the group B. However, Psoriasis, Eczema, and other skin lesion holders or those who are pregnant, nursing or contraceptives, and antihistamines were excluded from this study.

For the skin patch experiment, the upper arm area, which is the test site, was wiped with 70% ethanol and dried, and then, each of Examples and Comparative Examples was added dropwise to the chamber by 15 µg, and then fixed on the test site. Apply the patch for 24 hours, remove it, mark the test site with a marking pen and observe the test site over time.

Determination of skin stability was observed 30 minutes, 24 hours, 48 hours, 72 hours after patch removal in accordance with the regulations of the International Contact Dermatitis Research Group (ICDRG) of Table 2 below, the results are shown in Table 3 Shown in

Criteria for the International Contact Dermatitis Research Group (ICDRG) sign Criteria evaluation Mean score ± ++++++- Doubtful or slight reaction and erythemaErythema + IndurationErythema + Induration + VesicleErythema + Induration + Bullae Stimulus stimulus non stimulus 0 to 0.91.0 to 2.93.0 to 4.95.0 or more

Skin patch experiment Elapsed time Example Comparative example 24 hours 0.5 4.5 48 hours 0 1.5 72 hours 0 0.5

As shown in Table 3, the skin safety test results according to the skin patch test Example shows very low microstimulation only in the first 24 hours and no irritation after 48 hours, flax extract is very effective for skin irritation caused by AHA Effective suppression of zoom can be seen. On the other hand, the comparative example containing only AHA shows a strong irritation to the skin with an average irritation degree of 4.5 after 24 hours, and it can be seen that the irritation remains after 48 hours, so that the degree of skin irritation is severe.

Test Example: Skinting Potential Test

In order to conduct skin irritation experiments on skin care cosmetics of Examples and Comparative Examples, 20 subjects (average age 22 years old, age distribution 19 years old to 34 years old) were used for 15 minutes using a steam generator. After applying, apply the example on the left side of the face and the comparative example on the right side while rubbing strongly around the nose and the cheeks. Stinging grades were evaluated as classified as intense stinging within 30 seconds, mild stinging within 2.5 minutes, moderate stinging within 5 minutes, and delayed stinging within 8 minutes after application. Psoriasis, eczema, and other skin lesion holders, or those who are pregnant, nursing or contraceptives, or antihistamines, were excluded from this study.

Determination was made by applying a sample (Example, Comparative Example) to the face and observing skin reactions (itch, itching, soreness, redness, swelling, etc.) for 8 minutes and measuring the response score to the number of subjects (n). The stimulus was evaluated by dividing the response rate (%). The degree of skin irritation according to the response rate (%) was determined according to the criteria of Table 4 below, and the results are shown in Table 5 below.

Criterion for stinging potential test Grade Response rate (%) Judgment One 0.00-0.75 Non-irritating 2 0.76-1.50 Unstimulated 3 1.51-2.50 Light stimulation 4 2.51-4.00 Heavy stimulation 5 4.01 or more Strong stimulation

Stinging Potential Test Example Comparative example Response rate (%) 0.80 4.50 Judgment Unstimulated Strong stimulation Grade 2 5

As shown in Table 5, the skin safety test results according to the skin irritation test results (Response rate (%): 0.8) shows a very low skin irritation compared to the comparative example (Response rate (%): 4.5), which In general, considering that AHA-containing cosmetics have a strong irritation, it can be seen that the flax extract of the present invention effectively inhibits and alleviates skin irritation of AHA, thereby providing a very safe cosmetic.

Test Example: Determination of the exfoliation effect and skin irritation of AHA

In order to determine the skin exfoliation effect of AHA exfoliation, namely, the improvement of skin color brightness and softness, the 20 healthy adult men and women with blemishes, freckles, and pigmentation were randomly selected for each Example and Comparative Example. Divide into two groups, A and B. Example A for Group A and Comparative Example for Group B were applied twice a day for 6 weeks, and then the degree of hyperkeratosis was removed using chromatometer (Minolta CR300). ), And subjective visual observation by the subject to evaluate the degree of hyper keratin removal effect by the following evaluation criteria (grade 7), the results are shown in Table 6 below.

In addition, in order to determine the incidence (ΔE) of skin erythema caused by AHA, the color change (ΔL) measurement site of the color was measured using an MEXAMETER (C + K electronic GmbH. The Erythema Index (E) was measured before and after using, and ΔE was calculated. As the ΔE value increases, the degree of skin erythema increases, so that the skin irritation caused by AHA is severe, and the skin irritation degree is determined by the ΔE value, and the results are shown in Table 7 below.

Exfoliate effect Subject Change in brightness of skin color (ΔL) Subjective Evaluation of the Subject Example Comparative example Example Comparative example One 5.2 4.4 3 2 2 5.9 4.0 2 3 3 4.3 7.3 3 One 4 4.9 5.8 3 2 5 4.5 5.5 2 3 6 5.5 6.1 3 3 7 6.9 3.8 2 One 8 4.3 5.4 2 3 9 7.7 6.5 3 3 10 8.3 4.6 3 2 medium 5.8 5.3 2.6 2.3

* Evaluation standard :

-3: very worse, -2: worse, -1: slightly worse, 0: no change

1: slightly improved, 2: improved, 3: highly improved

Skin erythema due to hyperkeratosis Subject Erythema Index Change (ΔE) Example Comparative example Before use after use ΔE Before use after use ΔE One 580 585 5 545 560 15 2 575 575 0 510 525 15 3 600 595 -5 615 640 25 4 520 530 10 555 560 5 5 495 505 10 480 515 35 6 620 620 0 520 530 10 7 515 515 0 570 590 20 8 575 580 5 540 565 25 9 530 530 0 590 625 35 10 560 570 10 540 555 15 medium 3.5 20

As can be seen in Table 6, the average ΔL values of the A group and the B group containing only AHA to which the flax extract of the present invention and the cosmetic composition containing AHA were applied were 5.8 (P <0.01) and 5.3 (P, respectively). <0.01), it can be seen that both the Examples and Comparative Examples are very excellent in the exfoliation effect. In addition, subjective evaluation of subjects was slightly different, but group A (P <0.01) and group B 2.3 (P <0.01) showed that subjective evaluation of the subject was also very effective.

However, looking at the experimental results in Table 7 showing the degree of skin irritation according to the exfoliation of AHA, it can be seen that the skin irritation is severe due to severe reddening of the skin with a ΔE value of 20 in the comparative example. On the other hand, the degree of skin redness (erythema) of the embodiment is difficult to distinguish the degree of erythema with the naked eye with a ΔE value of 3.5. In other words, almost no skin irritation.

Therefore, although the exfoliating effect of the Example containing flax extract and AHA and the comparative example containing AHA only and the use effect of the subject are all similar, the degree of skin irritation according to the use is much lower than that of the Example. It can be seen that the skin irritation caused by the use of AHA can be alleviated.

Test Example: Test of Stability of Formulation

In order to measure the stability to the degree of separation and discoloration for the Examples and Comparative Examples, the Example and Comparative Compositions were prepared in opaque porridges in a thermostatic chamber kept constant at 45 ° C. and in a fully shielded refrigerator kept constant at 4 ° C. After storage for 12 weeks in a container to compare and measure the degree of separation and discoloration, the results are shown in Table 8. At this time, the degree of separation and discoloration of the product was evaluated by classifying into the following six grades.

Separation and discoloration Temperature Example Comparative example 45 ℃ 0 0 4 ℃ 0 0

* Separation and discoloration evaluation criteria:

0: no change, 1: very little separation (discoloration), 2: little separation (discoloration)

3: Slightly separate (discolored), 4: Severely separated (discolored), 5: Extremely severely separated (discolored)

As can be seen in Table 8, it can be seen that the Examples, Comparative Examples are both stable and there is no discoloration and separation phenomenon.

Formulation Example:

A composition containing the flax extract of the present invention and alpha hydroxy acid (AHA: α-Hydroxy Acid) was introduced into the product, and the flax extract was 0.01-10% by weight based on the dry weight of the cosmetic, It is formulated according to the manufacturing method in the conventional cosmetic field by compounding 0.01-20% by weight relative to the dry weight of the cosmetic. However, the composition of the present invention is not limited to the following formulation examples.

Formulation Example 1 Preparation of Flexible Lotion (Skin Lotion)

To prepare a flexible lotion containing the flax extract of the present invention and alpha hydroxy acid, it is blended as described in Table 9 and prepared according to a manufacturing method in a conventional cosmetic field.

Ingredient Parts by weight Lactic acid 0.1 Flax extract 0.5 1,3-butylene glycol 6.0 glycerin 4.0 Oleyl alcohol 0.1 Polysorbate 20 0.5 ethanol 15.0 Benzophenone-9 0.05 Incense, preservative a very small amount Triethanolamine Quantity Purified water to 100

Formulation Example 2 Preparation of Nutritious Lotion (Milk Lotion)

To prepare a nourishing lotion containing the flax extract of the present invention and alpha hydroxy acid, it is blended as described in Table 10 and prepared according to a manufacturing method in a conventional cosmetic field.

Ingredient Parts by weight Lactic acid 2.0 Flax extract 1.0 Propylene glycol 6.0 glycerin 4.0 Triethanolamine Quantity Tocopheryl Acetate 3.0 Floating paraffin 5.0 Squalane 3.0 Macadamia Nut Oil 2.0 Polysorbate 60 1.5 Sorbitan sesquioleate 1.0 Xanthan Gum 0.3 Incense, preservative a very small amount Purified water to 100

Formulation Example 3 Preparation of Nutritious Cream

To prepare a nutritive cream containing flax extract of the present invention and alpha hydroxy acid, it is combined as described in Table 11, and prepared according to a manufacturing method in a conventional cosmetic field.

Ingredient Parts by weight Lactic acid 5.0 Linseed 1.0 vaseline 7.0 Liquid paraffin 10.0 Beeswax 2.0 Polysorbate 60 2.5 Sorbitan sesquioleate 1.5 Squalane 3.0 Propylene glycol 6.0 glycerin 4.0 Triethanolamine Quantity Xanthan Gum 0.5 Tocopheryl Acetate 0.1 Incense, preservative a very small amount Purified water to 100

Formulation Example 4 Preparation of Massage Cream

A massage cream is prepared according to a manufacturing method in the conventional cosmetic field using the ingredients described in Table 12 below.

Ingredient Parts by weight Lactic acid 2.0 Flax extract 0.5 Propylene glycol 6.0 glycerin 4.0 Triethanolamine Quantity Beeswax 2.0 Tocopheryl Acetate 0.1 Polysorbate 60 3.0 Sorbitan sesquioleate 2.5 Cetearyl Alcohol 2.0 Liquid paraffin 30.0 Xanthan Gum 0.5 Incense, preservative a very small amount Purified water to 100

Formulation Example 5: Pack

The pack is prepared according to the manufacturing method in the conventional cosmetic field using the ingredients described in Table 13 below.

Ingredient Parts by weight Lactic acid 3.0 Flax extract 1.0 Propylene glycol 2.0 glycerin 4.0 Polyvinyl alcohol 10.0 ethanol 7.0 Fiji-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.8 Triethanolamine Quantity Incense, preservative a very small amount Purified water to 100

As described above, the skin care cosmetic composition containing the present flax extract and alpha hydroxy acid (AHA: α-Hydroxy Acid) from the alpha hydroxy acid used for improving skin wrinkles and blemishes, freckles, pigmentation By reducing the skin irritation of flax extract, it is effective to reduce and alleviate the skin irritation effectively and to improve the quality and reliability of the product containing it.

Claims (4)

In the skin protection cosmetic composition, A skin protection cosmetic composition comprising linseed extract and alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). The method of claim 1, A skin protection cosmetic composition comprising flax extract in an amount of 0.01-10.0 wt% and alpha hydroxy acid in an amount of 0.01-20.0 wt%, based on the dry weight of the cosmetic. The method according to claim 1 or 2, Flax extract is a skin protection cosmetic composition, characterized in that the flaxseed powder was prepared using water, acetone, ethyl acetate, 1, 3-butylene glycol aqueous solution as the extraction solvent. The method according to claim 1 or 2, Flax extract contains 30-35% protein, 40-45% total sugars, and 4-6% uronic acids.