KR20000067187A - Cosmetics containing Paeonia Suffruticosa Andrews extracts - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing a extract of bark skin, and after drying the bark skin, water, ethanol, methanol, propanol, butanol, acetone, ethyl acetate, hexane, benzene, chloroform, glycerin, ethylene Using one or more solvents selected from the group consisting of glycols and propylene glycol, extraction is carried out by heating at 50-95 ° C. for 4-20 hours with a cooling condenser installed to prevent solvent evaporation or 1- at 5-37 ° C. After immersing for 15 days to extract the active ingredient, the solvent was recovered, and then added to the cosmetic in an amount of 0.001-10%, preferably 0.001-5%, as its dry weight.

Description

Cosmetics containing Paeonia Suffruticosa Andrews extracts

The present invention relates to extracts having free radical scavenging activity, antioxidant activity and whitening effect extracted from bark skin and cosmetics containing the extract.

The skin aging mechanism is as follows. Free radicals or free radicals are produced by ultraviolet rays or external environmental factors. Cell membranes are attacked by the generated free radicals or free radicals, and the skin is inflammated. Inflammated tissues The aging process leads to skin aging that destroys proteins and genetic material and forms wrinkles. Inhibiting and preventing all steps involved in the skin aging mechanism can fundamentally reduce skin aging.

The above operation is described in detail as follows. Regarding the inhibition of free radicals, in general, there is no organism in the absence of oxygen in the air. However, oxygen becomes free radicals under the influence of ultraviolet rays or enzymes. This active oxygen oxidizes fatty acids to produce peroxides. Biological membrane phospholipids of living organisms are also oxidized and cause disorders. The generated peroxides and free radicals cause gene damage that promotes aging. This active oxygen also affects the mechanisms that produce melanin in tyrosine and is also involved in skin blackening. Inhibiting this active oxygen is an important factor for skin aging cosmetics. Chemicals, which are added to cosmetics, medicines, and foods, have an active oxygen inhibitory and antioxidant effect. However, these chemicals are limited in their safety when applied to human skin for a long time. Natural products are mostly weak in inhibiting free radicals, but the safety of human skin is guaranteed. Therefore, there is a demand for a substance having a strong active oxygen inhibitory effect and an antioxidant effect and having a safety against human skin.

In the skin, the elastic fibers together with the collagen fibers form crosslinks inside the dermis. As you age, the elasticity of the elastinase, an elastin-degrading enzyme, is released from fibroblasts and causes a sudden decrease in skin elasticity and sagging due to various factors such as continuous UV exposure or skin inflammatory response. Histologically, the infiltration of inflammatory cells is increased, the deficiency and aggregation of elastin fibers, and the reduction of collagen fibers are shown. Biochemically, the activity of elastase is significantly increased. Elastase is the only enzyme known so far to break down elastin, and its inhibition can fundamentally reduce skin aging. In order to delay skin aging, a method of combining nutrition and additives with cosmetics in tissues in which moisturizers, anti-inflammatory agents, elastin and collagen cross-links are broken is used, which is fundamentally limited in delaying aging. to be. Therefore, there is a need for inhibitors that fundamentally inhibit the degradation of elastin and collagen to maintain skin elasticity.

Due to the disadvantage that the raw material having a conventional anti-aging effect does not fundamentally inhibit aging, research has been attempted to find new functional materials. Various natural natural products, which have been used as herbal medicines for a long time, have not only excellent stability, but also contain various beneficial drug substances and have been a good search target.

When explaining the action of hyaluronicase in detail, hyaluronicase is widely distributed in the living body, an enzyme also present in the skin, and decomposes hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid is a straight chain polysaccharide with a crosslink of β-D-N-acetylglucosamine and β-D-glucouronic acid, a type of glucosamino glucan (GAG). In the action of hyaluronic acid in the connective tissue, the cells retain moisture, and the matrix forms within the tissue, thereby retaining the moisture. Hyaluronic acid decreases with age, and as a result, water retention decreases, causing aging. Therefore, inhibiting the activity of hyaluronic acid that decomposes hyaluronic acid contributes to the stability of hyaluronic acid used in the preparation and to the stability of hyaluronic acid and hyaluronic acid present in the skin in the formulation after application to the skin.

The whitening action is described in detail as follows. Skin has many important functions. Representative among them is a function of suppressing melanin production in order to protect the body from ultraviolet rays of sunlight. Melanin is produced from melanocytes, a kind of skin cells, and has a natural screening that is distributed on the surface of the skin and blocks ultraviolet rays harmful to the human body. Underlying melanogenesis is an enzyme called tyrosinase that is synthesized in melanocytes. Tyrosinase generates dopaquinone via dopa (DOPA) based on an amino acid called tyrosine, and melanin, which is a black pigment, is produced by several stages of oxidative condensation reaction from dopaquinone. Ascorbic acid (JP-A 4-9320), hydroquinone (JP-A 6-192062), kojic acid (JP-A 56-7710), arbutin (JP-A 4-9315) and some extracts have tyrosinase inhibitory activity. Although it is used as a whitening cosmetic, the stability in the prescription system is poorly degraded and colored, or its use is limited due to the occurrence of off-flavor, efficacy at the biological level, unclear effect and safety problems. And the inhibitory effect of tyrosinase has been demonstrated, but the effect is low in experiments similar to the actual biologic level. Therefore, the inhibitory effect of the melanoma cell culture similar to the biological level is required. Hydroquinone is also regulated as a carcinogenic substance and is prohibited from use. Kojic acid and ascorbic acid are very unstable substances. Browning may occur when a small amount of cosmetics are stored at room temperature for several weeks. Arbutin also causes cytotoxicity and safety issues have been pointed out. On the other hand, natural products are not only safe but also have various beneficial ingredients, making them a good target for whitening substances.

In order to solve the problems of raw materials having the function of suppressing skin aging, it has various effects that can fundamentally suppress skin aging from plant extracts having excellent safety, such as herbal medicines, vegetables, fruits and flowers, which are used as herbal medicines. Efforts have been made to find extracts.

Accordingly, it is an object of the present invention to provide a natural product extract that is excellent in efficacy, such as excellent free radical scavenging action, antioxidant action, whitening action and the like, without any problems in stability.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition comprising an extract having such efficacy.

The above object of the present invention is achieved by a cosmetic composition containing the extract of the bark and its extract.

The inventors of the present invention, in search of a substance that is effective in preventing aging among various natural substances in nature in order to find a substance that contributes fundamentally to the prevention of skin aging, the extract extracted from the bark skin has an anti-elastase and anti-hyaluronase effect It has been found to be able to fundamentally prevent skin aging and to exhibit very good free radical scavenging effect, antioxidant activity and whitening effect and no problem in stability.

In addition, it was found that the skin condition due to distinct skin elasticity and aging is improved even in the experimental results of directly applying the extract of the bark skin to the cosmetic composition at a certain concentration.

The extract of the neck bark of the present invention is as follows.

At least one solvent selected from the group consisting of water, ethanol, methanol, propanol, butanol, acetone, ethyl acetate, hexane, benzene, chloroform, glycerin, ethylene glycol and propylene glycol as extraction solvents for dry weight after primary drying Add 1-20 times by volume. Extraction method is a method of extracting by heating at 50-95 ° C for 4-20 hours or extracting active ingredient at 5-37 ° C for 1-15 days while cooling condenser is installed to prevent evaporation of solvent. Can be. The extracted bark bark extract is concentrated under reduced pressure while recovering the solvent evaporated using a distillation apparatus equipped with a cooling condenser, and then added to the cosmetic powder in an amount of 0.001-10%, preferably 0.001-5% as its dry weight. .

The present invention will be described in detail with reference to the following Examples.

The following Examples and Experimental Examples are for explaining the content of the present invention, but the content of the present invention is not limited thereto.

Example 1.

1kg of dried dried bark skin was added to 20kg of water and boiled for 5 hours in an extractor equipped with a cooling condenser. The mixture was filtered through a 400 mesh filter cloth, cooled to room temperature, left to mature at 5-15 ° C for 7 days, and then filtered through Whatman 2 filter paper. It was. The extract was concentrated under reduced pressure at 60 ° C. in a distillation apparatus equipped with a cooling condenser to obtain 105 g (dry weight).

Example 2.

1kg of dried bark completely dried, and then placed in 20kg of 50% ethanol, extracted by boiling in an extractor equipped with a cooling condenser for 5 hours, filtered through a 400 mesh filter cloth, cooled to room temperature, left at 5-15 ° C for 7 days, and then aged. Once filtered with filter paper. The extract was concentrated under reduced pressure at 60 ° C. in a distillation apparatus equipped with a cooling condenser to obtain 102 g (dry weight).

Example 3.

Wash 1 kg of dried bark with clean water, dry it, put it in 10 l of 80% ethanol, boil it for 5 hours in an extractor equipped with a cooling condenser, filter it with 400 mesh filter cloth, and leave it for 5 days at 5-15 ° C. for aging. Filter with. The extract was concentrated under reduced pressure at 60 ° C. in a distillation apparatus equipped with a cooling condenser to obtain 98 g (dry weight).

Example 4.

Wash 1kg of dried bark with clean water, dry it, put it in 20ℓ of ethanol, boil it for 5 hours in an extractor equipped with a cooling condenser, filter it with 400 mesh filter cloth, and leave it for 5 days at 5-15 ℃ for aging. do. The extract was concentrated under reduced pressure at 70 ° C. in a distillation apparatus equipped with a cooling condenser to obtain 122 g (dry weight).

Example 5.

Wash 1kg of dried bark with clean water, dry it, put it in 20ℓ of ethanol, extract for 7 days at 15-37 ℃, filter it with 400 mesh filter cloth, leave it for 7 days at 5-15 ℃, and filter it with Whatman No. 2 filter paper. The extract was concentrated under reduced pressure at 70 ° C. in a distillation apparatus equipped with a cooling condenser to obtain 118 g (dry weight).

Example 6-20.

Using the solvent of Table 1 below, the extraction was carried out in the same manner as in Example 5, and the results are shown in Table 1 below.

Table 1. Experimental Results of Example 6-21

Dry Weight of Extraction Solvent Final Extraction

(Unit: g)

Example 6 50% Ethanol 100

Example 7 80% Ethanol 134

Example 8 Methanol 125

Example 9 50% Methanol 105

Example 10 80% Methanol 135

Example 11 n-propanol 120

Example 12 Isopropanol 101

Example 13 n-Butanol 121

Example 14 Hydrated Glycerin 76

Example 15 Hydrous propylene glycol 86

Example 16 Hydrated Butylene Glycol 99

Example 17 Benzene 54

Example 18 Chloroform 42

Example 19 Hexane 92

Example 20 Acetone 88

Example 21 Purified Water 111

Prescription Example 1.

Prescription example of flexible skin lotion (skin) in cosmetics containing extract of neck skin is as follows. As for the extract of neck bark, the extract extracted in Example 5 was used.

Raw material Weight part Bark Extract 0.1 glycerin 3.0 Butylene Glycol 2.0 Propylene glycol 2.0 Carboxy Vinyl Polymer 0.1 ethanol 10.0 Triethanolamine 0.1 antiseptic a very small amount Pigment a very small amount Spices a very small amount Purified water Remaining amount

Prescription Example 2.

A prescription example of nourishing cosmetics (loshon) in cosmetics containing extract of bark is as follows. As for the extract of neck bark, the extract extracted in Example 5 was used.

Raw material Weight part Bark Extract 0.1 Beeswax 4.0 Polysorbate 60 1.5 Sorbitan sesquioleate 0.5 Liquid paraffin 5.0 Squalane 5.0 Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 5.0 glycerin 3.0 Butylene glycol 3.0 Propylene glycol 3.0 Carboxy Vinyl Polymer 0.1 Triethanolamine 0.2 antiseptic a very small amount Pigment a very small amount Spices a very small amount Purified water Remaining amount

Prescription Example 3.

A prescription example of nourishing cream in cosmetics containing extract of neck peel is as follows.

As for the extract of neck bark, the extract extracted in Example 5 was used.

Raw material Weight part Bark Extract 0.1 Beeswax 10.0 Polysorbate 60 1.5 Sorbitan sesquioleate 0.5 Liquid paraffin 10.0 Squalane 5.0 Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 5.0 glycerin 5.0 Butylene glycol 3.0 Propylene glycol 3.0 Triethanolamine 0.2 antiseptic a very small amount Pigment a very small amount Spices a very small amount Purified water Remaining amount

Prescription Example 4.

A prescription example of a massage cream in cosmetics containing extract of neck skin is as follows.

As for the extract of neck bark, the extract extracted in Example 5 was used.

Ryo Weight part Bark Extract 0.1 Beeswax 10.0 Polysorbate 60 1.5 Sorbitan sesquioleate 0.8 Liquid paraffin 40.0 Squalane 5.0 Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 4.0 glycerin 5.0 Butylene glycol 3.0 Propylene glycol 3.0 Triethanolamine 0.2 antiseptic a very small amount Pigment a very small amount Spices a very small amount Purified water Remaining amount

Prescription Example 5.

Prescription examples of packs of cosmetics containing the extract of neck skin are as follows.

As for the extract of neck bark, the extract extracted in Example 5 was used.

Raw material Weight part Bark Extract 0.1 Polyvinyl alcohol 13.0 Sodium Carboxymethylcellulose 0.2 Allantoin 0.1 ethanol 5.0 Nonylphenyl Ether 0.3 antiseptic a very small amount Pigment a very small amount Spices a very small amount Purified water Remaining amount

Prescription 6.

Prescription examples of emulsified foundations in cosmetics containing the extract of neck skin are as follows. Here, the extract of neck skin refers to that of Example 5.

Raw material Weight part Bark Extract 0.1 Beeswax 2.0 Pyromethicone 2.0 Liquid paraffin 5.0 Squalane 5.0 Stearic acid 2.0 Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 4.0 glycerin 4.0 Propylene glycol 3.0 Butylene glycol 3.0 Triethanolamine 1.0 Aluminum Magnesium Silicate 0.5 Pigment 12 antiseptic a very small amount Pigment a very small amount Spices a very small amount Purified water Remaining amount

Experimental Example 1.

The antioxidant effect of the extract of Example 1-21 was determined.

1) Experiment Method

Antioxidant effect was measured by thiobutylate acetic acid (TBA) test using a lipid peroxidation system by the Fenton reaction. To 5 ml of 25 mM Tris buffer solution / 0.75 mM potassium buffer solution containing 10 µl of ethyl linoleate, 0.02% dodecyl sulfate, 10 µmol of ferric chloride, and 2 µmol of hydrogen peroxide, dodecylmethyl sulfate solution of the bark extract was added at 55 ° C. After 16 hours of incubation, 50 µl of 4% butylhydroxytoluene was added and the reaction was stopped. Next, 0.3 ml of this solution was put into a test tube, and 0.05 ml hydrochloric acid 3.0 ml and 0.67% thiobutylate acetic acid solution were added and the mixture was boiled for 30 minutes. After cooling the reaction solution, 4.0% of 85% butanol was added, and after centrifugation, the absorbance of butanol was measured at 535 nm to determine the antioxidant effect (%). At this time, the control test was performed simultaneously.

2) Experiment result

Table 2. Antioxidative Effects of Bark Extracts

Example Final concentration of the extract contained in the reaction solution (㎍ / ㎖) Antioxidative effect(%) Example 1 1,000100 10045 Example 2 1,000100 10056 Example 3 1,000100 10028 Example 4 1,000100 10054 Example 5 1,000100 10035 Example 6 1,000100 10042 Example 7 1,000100 10056 Example 8 1,000100 8556 Example 9 1,000100 10045 Example 10 1,000100 10039 Example 11 1,000100 10058 Example 12 1,000100 10044 Example 13 1,000100 10050 Example 14 1,000100 8520 Example 15 1,000100 8046 Example 16 1,000100 8225 Example 17 1,000100 4021 Example 18 1,000100 4222 Example 19 1,000100 3712 Example 20 1,000100 328 Example 21 1,000100 10035

Experimental Example 2.

Free radical scavenging effect was measured for the extract of the bark of Example 1-21.

1) Experiment Method

To 2 ml of 60 μmol of diphenylpicrylhydrazyl (DPPH) solution was added dodecyl methyl sulfate solution of the bark peel extract, reacted at 37 ° C. for 30 minutes, and the absorbance was measured at 520 nm to determine the free radical scavenging activity (%). At this time, a control test was performed.

2) Experiment result

Table 3. Effect of Free Radical Scavenging Effect on Bark Extracts

Example Final concentration of the extract contained in the reaction solution (㎍ / ㎖) Free radical scavenging effect (%) Example 1 10010 8834 Example 2 10010 8956 Example 3 10010 9351 Example 4 10010 7942 Example 5 10010 5828 Example 6 10010 9250 Example 7 10010 8138 Example 8 10010 7538 Example 9 10010 8344 Example 10 10010 9036 Example 11 10010 10040 Example 12 10010 10045 Example 13 10010 10058 Example 14 10 4020 Example 15 010 5925 Example 16 10010 5018 Example 17 10010 3612 Example 18 10010 3511 Example 19 10010 4923 Example 20 10010 4520 Example 21 10010 10053

Experimental Example 3.

The elastase inhibitory effect was measured on the extract of the bark of Example 1-21.

1) Experiment Method

Elastase was extracted from porcine pancreas and used Sigma company. An increase in the amount of 4-natroaniline released per unit time at a light wavelength of 410 nm was determined as the catalytic activity of elastase by a test based on the hydrolysis of synthetic peptide substrate (Sigma) by pancreatic elastase. First, 1.0 ml of substrate solution is added to the test tube, and potassium-phosphate buffer solution and distilled water are added. For each extract sample, 0.2 ml of extract sample solution contained in an appropriate concentration in ethanol solution was added to the reaction solution and reacted for 10 minutes in a 37 ° C thermostat. In this case, only 0.2 ml of solvent was added instead of each extract, and the absorbance at the wavelength of 410 nm was measured by a photo spectrometer. The elastase inhibitory effect of each extract is obtained by the following formula.

% Elastase inhibition = [1-(enzyme activity of each extract / enzyme activity of control)] X 100

2) Experiment result

Table 4. Elastase Inhibitory Effects on Bark Extracts

Example Final concentration of the extract contained in the reaction solution (㎍ / ㎖) Elastase Inhibition Rate (%) Example 1 1,000250 9859 Example 2 1,000250 10068 Example 3 1,000250 8875 Example 4 1,000250 10081 Example 5 1,000250 10085 Example 6 1,000250 9770 Example 7 1,000250 10078 Example 8 1,000250 10079 Example 9 1,000250 10069 Example 10 1,000250 10072 Example 11 1,000250 10078 Example 12 1,000250 10080 Example 13 1,000250 10081 Example 14 1,000250 8532 Example 15 1,000250 10061 Example 16 1,000250 8249 Example 17 1,000250 4021 Example 18 1,000250 4219 Example 19 1,000250 378 Example 20 1,000250 4025 Example 21 1,000250 10061

Experimental Example 4.

The hyaluronase inhibitory effect was measured on the extract of neck peel selected from Examples 1-21.

1) Experimental method.

Hyalurase (Sigma, Type 4) was used to measure the inhibitory activity of the activation step of the inactive enzyme by compound 48/80. Samples of the bark extract were dissolved in 100 ml of 0.1 M acetic acid buffer (pH 4.0), placed in a test tube, and 0.1 mg of the enzyme dissolved in 50 ml of acetic acid buffer was added and allowed to stand at 37 degrees for 20 minutes. Finally, 200 mg of sodium hyaluronate dissolved in 250 ml of acetic acid buffer was added and allowed to stand for 40 minutes at 37 ° C. After incubation, absorbance at 585 nm is measured. As a control, acetic acid buffer is used as the sample solution for neck skin. The inhibitory effect was expressed as (%) by multiplying 100 by the ratio of absorbance of the control test and absorbance containing the extract of Bark skin.

Table 5. Effect of Hyaluronase Inhibition on Bark Extracts

Example Final concentration of the extract contained in the reaction solution (㎍ / ㎖) Hyaluronicase Inhibition Rate (%) Example 7 1,000100 7032 Example 10 1,000100 8040 Example 12 1,000100 6832 Example 13 1,000100 6730 Example 14 1,000100 6025 Example 18 1,000100 355 Example 21 1,000100 7525

Experimental Example 5.

The whitening effect was measured by the melanin production inhibitory effect of the cells on the extract selected from Example 1-21.

1) Experimental method.

Melanin production inhibition function was assayed at the cellular level through melanocyte culture. B16 melanoma cells were incubated for 10 days in 10% bovine melanoma cells in the presence of 5% carbon dioxide until 1.0X108 cells / T25 flask. Thereafter, the culture medium was removed and the cells were collected by centrifugation with trypsin added to observe the degree of blackening of the cells. Determination of melanin present in the cells was performed by washing the cells with 5% trichloroacetic acid in the toweled cells, washing the cells with ether-ethanol solution and ether, and then treating them with 1 mol sodium hydroxide at 90 ° C. Melanin was dissolved into solution. The melanin in the solution was quantified at 475 nm and the number of cells was counted to quantify the amount of melanin produced per unit cell.

2) Experiment result

Table 6. Measurement of Whitening Effect on Bark Extracts

Example Final concentration of the extract contained in the reaction solution (㎍ / ㎖) Melanogenesis inhibition rate (%) Example 7 1,000100 9248 Example 10 1,000100 9252 Example 12 1,000100 9258 Example 13 1,000100 8841 Example 14 1,000100 8952 Example 19 1,000100 10070 Example 21 1,000100 7238

Experimental Example 6.

Enhancement effect on skin elasticity was measured for the extract of neck skin selected from Example 1-21.

1) Experiment Method

To examine the effect of the extract of bark on skin elasticity, it was applied twice a day to the edge of the left eye of 20 people. Untreated right eye edge was used as a control. The skin elasticity of the skin surface was measured by Corneometer CM 820 and Cutometer SEM 474 before and after treatment with the cosmetic extract containing the extract of the neck peel. Skin moisture measurement by Corneometer CM 820 showed the increased moisturizing value in% compared to the control group and the average value of 20 subjects was shown in the results. Skin elasticity measurement by Cutometer SEM 474 is a measure of the depth of wrinkles, the smaller the value is the better elasticity. The elasticity value was expressed as a percentage decrease compared to the control, and the average value of 20 subjects is shown in Table 7 below.

2) Experiment result

Table 7. Moisturizing and Elasticity-Increasing Effects of Bark Extracts

Prescription Skin moisturizing effect (%) Skin elasticity effect (%) Prescription Example 1 23 20 Prescription Example 2 29 38 Prescription Example 3 38 44 Prescription Example 4 36 41 Prescription Example 5 29 41 Prescription Example 6 16 32

The bark extract of the present invention has excellent free radical scavenging, antioxidant and whitening effects as can be seen from the results of the above experimental example. Therefore, the cosmetic composition containing the extract of the bark of the present invention is effective in anti-aging and skin whitening and skin elasticity enhancement.

Claims (7)

Cosmetic composition containing the extract Paeonia Suffruticosa Andrews. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the extract of the bark is extracted with ethanol, methanol, propanol, butanol, glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol alone or a mixed solvent with water. The method of claim 1, wherein the bark extract is acetone. Cosmetic composition, characterized in that extracted with ethyl acetate, benzene or chloroform solvent. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the extract of bark skin is extracted by immersing the dried bark skin in a solvent at 5-37 ° C for 1-15 days. 4. The dried bark skin according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the dried bark skin is placed in a solvent, at a temperature of 4-20 at 50-95 ° C, with a cooling condenser installed to prevent the solvent from evaporating. Cosmetic composition, characterized in that extracted by the method of heating by extraction. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the extract of the bark is contained in an amount of 0.0001-10% (w / v) as its dry weight. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition has a formulation of a flexible lotion, a nourishing cream, a nourishing cream, a massage cream, a pack, or an emulsified foundation.