KR102117716B1 - A cosmetic composition for skin whitening comprising the extract of derris dalbergioides baker as active ingredient - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for skin whitening, which contains an extract of Derris dalbergioides Baker as an active ingredient.
The beech tree extract of the present invention is excellent in skin whitening effect by inhibiting melanin production, which is a cause of pigmentation, and has no side effects and toxicity to the skin and can be safely used.

Description

A cosmetic composition for skin whitening that contains a birches extract as an active ingredient {A COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR SKIN WHITENING COMPRISING THE EXTRACT OF DERRIS DALBERGIOIDES BAKER AS ACTIVE INGREDIENT}

The present invention is a tree extract ( Derris dalbergioides Baker) relates to a cosmetic composition for skin whitening containing as an active ingredient.

The skin is a primary protective layer of the human body and protects the body's organs from changes in temperature and humidity and irritation of the external environment such as ultraviolet rays and pollutants, and plays an important role in maintaining bio homeostasis such as body temperature control.

However, as the ozone layer is destroyed due to the rapid development of the industry in recent years, skin aging is getting worse as the amount of UV rays, especially UVB, reaching the surface increases, and along with this, melanin pigments are deposited and skin diseases such as spots and freckles are increasing. In addition, modern people have increased preference for white skin, and interest in well-being has increased rapidly, and research on whitening agents using natural products with fewer side effects has been actively conducted.

It is known that the skin is exposed to ultraviolet rays and is subjected to photooxidative damage due to the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), which are known to attack skin cells and age the skin. The main function of melanin is to remove these harmful radicals and protect the skin from damage.

The factors that promote the production of melanin include estrogen or prostaglandin as well as ultraviolet light. Melanin is produced in a melanin-forming cell by ultraviolet rays, which is converted to dopa and dopachrome by an enzyme called tyrosinase, followed by complex oxidation and condensation reactions. The produced melanin is transferred to the skin cells and exhibits a circulating action in which melanin is lost and disappears with epidermal detachment.

This process of melanin production is a natural phenomenon, and does not occur excessively of melanin in normal human skin. However, when the skin reacts to external stimuli such as ultraviolet rays, environmental pollution or stress, melanin is excessively produced. Pigmentation occurs when the over-produced melanin is not discharged from the skin and remains in the skin. The most important feature of this melanin production mechanism is that only one enzyme, tyrosinase, is involved. When the melanin production is prevented by inhibiting the tyrosinase activity, a whitening effect can be expected.

Various whitening ingredients have been developed and used to date, but various problems have been raised. 4-Hydroxyquinone and hydroxyquinone are used locally for the treatment of hyperpigmentation such as freckles, freckles, spots and hyperpigmentation during pregnancy, but these compounds show excellent melanin production inhibitory activity but cause degeneration of melanocytes and cells It has side effects that impair its original function. In addition, ascorbic acid is not suitable as an inhibitor of melanin production due to the low stability of the molecule itself. In addition, kojic acid has a problem in stability, such as discoloration when compounded in a cosmetic and a decrease in titer according to change over time, and has a limitation in use due to large skin irritation.

 Therefore, much interest in the development of new materials that are safe for the skin and have high whitening activity is increasing, and in particular, the development of functional materials using natural materials is required.

Therefore, many studies on whitening cosmetics using natural substances have been proposed.

As an example, Korean Patent Publication No. 10-2013-0023325 discloses that the ash tree extract inhibits melanin production and is useful as a whitening cosmetic composition. In addition, Korean Patent Publication No. 10-2013-0123490 relates to a whitening cosmetic composition comprising an extract of an elm tree ( Maackia amurensis ) as an active ingredient, and the extract of an elm tree inhibits the tyrosinase enzyme, which is an important enzyme for the mechanism of melanin production, and the amount of melanin produced. It has been disclosed to suppress and exhibit a remarkable whitening effect.

KR 10-2013-0023325 A KR 10-2013-0123490 A

An object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition for skin whitening, which is excellent in skin whitening effect by suppressing the production of melanin, which is a cause of pigmentation, while being safe for skin with natural materials.

To this end, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition for skin whitening containing an extract of Derris dalbergioides Baker as an active ingredient.

The beech tree extract of the present invention is excellent in skin whitening efficacy because it has no skin irritation and excellent melanin synthesis inhibitory effect.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

The vetch tree ( Derris dalbergioides Baker) is an umbrella-shaped tree of ascending branches belonging to the legume family and grows up to 5-20 m. It grows naturally at an altitude of 200 to 1200m in Java, Malaysia, and Thailand. In general, it has been used for firewood and building materials.

In the present invention, the birches ( Derris dalbergioides Baker) extract is obtained by extracting from various organs or parts, and one or more selected from leaves, flowers, stems, branches, roots, outposts, bark and fruits of birches It is characterized by extracting by adding a solvent.

Derris tree used as a raw material in the present invention dalbergioides Baker) extract is the main effect contained in the extract obtained by leaching and transferring from the beech tree outpost, or the concentrate obtained by partially or fully concentrating the leachate again, or the extract and extract extracted by drying the concentrate It contains the chemical itself.

The extract of the present invention, according to a conventional method known in the art, that is, using a conventional solvent, commonly used cold immersion, reflux cooling extraction, hot water extraction, room temperature extraction, warming extraction, ultrasonic extraction, supercritical It can be produced by a method such as extraction. Preferably, reflux extraction and cooling are performed, followed by filtration.

Specifically, purified water, alcohol having 1 to 6 carbons, glycerin, alkylene glycol having 2 to 6 carbons, alkanes having 1 to 6 carbons, halogenated hydrocarbons having 1 to 6 carbons, alkyl alkanoates having 2 to 6 carbons, and mixtures thereof Extraction solvent selected from can be used. More specifically, the extraction solvent selected from purified water, methanol, ethanol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dichloromethane, dichloroethane, hexane, ethyl acetate and mixtures thereof can be used.

The amount of the extraction solvent used is 10 to 30 times the volume of the raw material, more preferably 10 to 20 times.

The extraction temperature may be adopted by a person skilled in the art in various temperature ranges suitable for the extraction method, and may be performed at, for example, 20°C to 100°C, but is not limited thereto. In addition, the extraction time differs depending on the extraction method, and a person skilled in the art may adopt an appropriate extraction time, but is not limited thereto, and may be performed once or multiple times in a range of about 1 hour to several days. The extract obtained by performing the extraction with the primary extraction solvent is obtained in a liquid form by removing impurities by filtration according to a conventional method, or the obtained liquid form extract is concentrated under reduced pressure and/or dried in a powder form according to a conventional method. Can be obtained.

The content of the extract of Derris dalbergioides Baker according to the present invention is preferably in the range of 0.001 to 30.0% by weight relative to the total composition. In order to achieve a minimal skin whitening effect, the content of the extract is preferably greater than or equal to the above minimum, and it is preferable that the content of the extract is less than or equal to the maximum, in consideration of reduced usability due to excessive addition and applicability to various formulations. At this time, the content of the extract is preferably adjusted appropriately within the above range according to the content of the ingredients contained in the formulation.

In addition, the birches according to the present invention ( Derris dalbergioides Baker) When using the extract as a compositional component, it can be used not only as a freeze-dried powder, but also as a liquid dispersed or dissolved in water or a conventional organic solvent.

As an example, after extracting the outpost of Derris dalbergioides Baker with the extraction solvent, cold filtration and filtration, the filtrate is concentrated under reduced pressure at 50° C. or less, and the reduced pressure concentrate is freeze-dried to extract the extract according to the present invention in powder form. Can be obtained by In addition, the freeze-dried Bach tree ( Derris dalbergioides Baker) extract powder may be dispersed or dissolved in water or a conventional organic solvent to obtain a liquid form.

The composition according to the present invention may also contain other components that can give a synergistic effect to the main effect, preferably within the range not impairing the main effect targeted by the present invention in addition to the above extract.

In addition, the ingredients included in the cosmetic composition of the present invention include ingredients commonly used in cosmetic compositions in addition to the above-mentioned extracts as active ingredients, for example, conventional auxiliary agents such as antioxidants, stabilizers, solubilizers, vitamins, pigments, and fragrances. , And a carrier.

The composition of the present invention may be prepared in any formulation conventionally prepared in the art, for example, softening makeup, converging makeup, nourishing makeup, nourishing cream, massage cream, essence, eye cream, eye essence, cleansing cream, It can be formulated with cosmetics such as cleansing foam, cleansing water, pack, gel, powder, body lotion, body cream, body oil, and body essence.

When the formulation of the present invention is a paste, cream or gel, animal oil, vegetable oil, wax, paraffin, starch, trakant, cellulose derivative, polyethylene glycol, silicone, bentonite, silica, talc or zinc oxide, etc. may be used as a carrier component. Can be.

When the formulation of the present invention is a powder or a spray, lactose, talc, silica, aluminum hydroxide, calcium silicate or polyamide powder may be used as a carrier component, and in the case of a spray, additionally chlorofluorohydrocarbon, propane /Propellant such as butane or dimethyl ether.

When the formulation of the present invention is a solution or emulsion, a solvent, solubilizer or emulsifier is used as a carrier component, such as water, ethanol, isopropanol, ethyl carbonate, ethyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, benzyl benzoate, propylene glycol, 1 Fatty acid esters of ,3-butyl glycol oil, glycerol aliphatic esters, polyethylene glycol or sorbitan.

When the formulation of the present invention is a suspension, liquid diluents such as water, ethanol or propylene glycol as carrier components, ethoxylated isostearyl alcohol, suspensions such as polyoxyethylene sorbitol esters and polyoxyethylene sorbitan esters, microcrystals Sex cellulose, aluminum metahydroxide, bentonite, agar or trakant, etc. can be used.

When the formulation of the present invention is a surfactant-containing cleansing, aliphatic alcohol sulfate, aliphatic alcohol ether sulfate, sulfosuccinic acid monoester, isethionate, imidazolinium derivatives, methyltaurate, sarcosinate, fatty acid amide as a carrier component Ether sulfates, alkylamidobetaines, aliphatic alcohols, fatty acid glycerides, fatty acid diethanolamides, vegetable oils, lanolin derivatives or ethoxylated glycerol fatty acid esters and the like can be used.

Hereinafter, preferred embodiments are provided to help understanding of the present invention. However, the following examples are only provided to more easily understand the present invention, and the contents of the present invention are not limited by the examples.

Example 1 Preparation of Ethanol Extract of Betsy Tree

After slicing, reflux was extracted three times for 5 hours with 1000 ml of 95% (V/V) ethanol aqueous solution in 100 g of shaded vine tree outpost, and then cooled and filtered with Whatman #5 filter paper. The filtered extract was concentrated under reduced pressure and freeze-dried at 50°C or lower to obtain an extract powder (yield 2.1%).

Example 2. Preparation of methanol extract of birches

In the same manner as in Example 1, an extract powder (yield 2.2%) was prepared, but methanol was used instead of an aqueous 95% (V/V) ethanol solution as an extraction solvent.

Example  3. Bech  Trees Propylene glycol  Preparation of extract

In the same manner as in Example 1, an extract powder (yield 1.4%) was prepared, but propylene glycol was used instead of an aqueous 95% (V/V) ethanol solution as an extraction solvent.

Example 4. Preparation of ethyl acetate extract of beech tree

In the same manner as in Example 1, an extract powder (yield 1.2%) was prepared, but ethyl acetate was used as an extraction solvent in place of a 95% (V/V) ethanol aqueous solution.

Example 5. Preparation of a water extract of a beech tree

In the same manner as in Example 1, an extract powder (yield 1.9%) was prepared, but water was used instead of an aqueous 95% (V/V) ethanol solution as an extraction solvent.

Example 6. Preparation of a dichloromethane extract of a beech tree

In the same manner as in Example 1, an extract powder (yield 1.3%) was prepared, but dichloromethane was used instead of an aqueous 95% (V/V) ethanol solution as an extraction solvent.

Example 7. Preparation of hexane extract of beech tree

In the same manner as in Example 1, an extract powder (yield 1.2%) was prepared, but hexane was used instead of an aqueous 95% (V/V) ethanol solution as an extraction solvent.

Experimental Example 1: Check the inhibitory effect of melanin production

Rat melanoma cells (B-16 F1) cells were added in 2 ml of 1×10 ⁵ cells/well concentration in a 6-well plate in DMEM medium containing 10% fetal bovine serum (FBS), 5% CO ₂ , Incubation was carried out at 37°C for one day. After the culture medium is removed and the extract samples obtained in Examples 1 to 7 are appropriately diluted with 10% FBS-containing DMEM medium, and then at 5% CO ₂ and 37° C., the cells are about 80% or more at the bottom of the well. Incubated until. The concentration range of the sample was determined through a toxicity test using a crystal violet assay. At this time, the solution obtained by dissolving the extract powders obtained in Examples 1 to 7 in a mixed solution comprising purified water/butylene glycol: 7/3 volume ratio at a concentration of 3% by weight was used as a sample solution.

The cells from which the medium was removed were washed with PBS (phosphated buffer saline), and treated with trypsin to recover the cells. The recovered cells were counted using a hematocytometer, centrifuged at 5,000 to 10,000 rpm for 10 minutes, and the supernatant was removed to obtain pellets. After drying the cell pellet at 60° C., 100 μl of 1M sodium hydroxide solution containing 10% DMSO was added to melt intracellular melanin in a 60° C. bath. With this solution, the absorbance was measured at 405 nm with an ELISA reader to determine the amount of melanin per cell constant or the amount of melanin per constant protein, and was calibrated by blank test.

The inhibition rate of melanin production was calculated using Equation 1 below, and the results are shown in Table 1 below.

[Equation 1]

Inhibition rate of melanin production (%) = 100-(absorbance of each sample/absorbance of negative control X 100)

Sample name Melanin production inhibitory effect (IC ₅₀ ) Ethanol extract (Example 1) 45.6 Methanol extract (Example 2) 52.3 Propylene glycol extract (Example 3) 36.2 Ethyl acetate extract (Example 4) 41.4 Water extract (Example 5) 48.6 Dichloromethane extract (Example 6) 29.8 Hexane extract (Example 7) 15.7 Arbutin 35.3 Ascorbic acid 24.7

As shown in Table 1, the melanin production inhibitory effect of the extract obtained by using methanol as an extraction solvent was the best. In particular, the extract using methanol as an extraction solvent showed superior effects compared to conventional whitening agents such as arbutin or ascorbic acid.

Experimental Example  2. Skin whitening effect (cream)

The'test cosmetic' of the nutritional cream formulation having the composition of Table 2 and the'comparative cosmetic' each containing no extract were prepared, respectively, and the skin whitening effect was evaluated for a person.

For 20 subjects (women 25 to 42 years old),'test cosmetic' was applied to the right side of the face and'comparative cosmetic' was applied to the left side of the face twice a day for 3 consecutive months. After completion of the test, the change in brightness (ΔL) of the color was measured by using an image analyzer and chromameta (Minolta CR300) on the skin of the application site on both sides of the face.

[Equation 2]

ΔL= Skin brightness after test-Skin brightness before test

Objective visual observation was performed by a plurality of skilled personnel to measure the effect according to the following classification. At this time, the degree of whitening efficacy was classified and evaluated in the following four grades.

[Criteria for whitening efficacy evaluation]

0: no change

1: slightly improved

2: Improvement

3: Very improved

The results are shown in Table 3 below.

ingredient Content (% by weight) Extract of Example 2 2.0 Lipophilic glycerin monostearate 2.0 Cetearyl alcohol 2.0 Stearic acid 1.5 Polysorbate 60 1.5 Sorbitan stearate 0.6 Hydrogenated polyisobutene 1.0 Squalane 3.0 Mineral oil 5.0 Cyclomethicone 5.0 Dimethicone 1.0 Tocopherol acetate 0.5 glycerin 5.0 Betaine 3.0 Triethanolamine 1.0 Shotgun 0.05 antiseptic Proper Purified water Balance Sum 100

division Change in skin color brightness (△L) Objective evaluation of experienced personnel Test Cosmetic Fee Comparative Cosmetics Test Cosmetic Fee Comparative Cosmetics medium 3.88 1.24 3.46 1.82

As shown in the results in Table 3, it can be seen that the cream containing the extract of the beech tree of the present invention has an excellent skin whitening effect.

Experimental Example  3: Skin irritation

In order to investigate whether skin irritation of the formulation containing the birches extract according to the present invention was performed, a patch test was conducted on humans with the formulations of the following formulation examples 1-6.

Objective skin irritation was measured in 20 women in their 20s and 30s who had no hypersensitivity to skin irritation and had no skin disease or skin allergy symptoms.

The test site was wiped off with 70% ethanol and dried. The prepared test substances were dripped in a pin chamber (Finn chamber, 100ㅁ10, EPITEST, Finland) by 15 µg each, and then sealed tightly on the inside part of the forearm of the test subject. After application for 48 hours and removal of the application, the test site was marked with a marker pen. After 1 hour and 24 hours, respectively, the test site was observed using a magnifying glass (8MC-150, DAZOR, United States of America) to observe the presence or absence of erythema and edema.

At this time, the skin reaction was determined according to the provisions of the International Contact Dermatitis Research Group (ICDRG) (Table 4), the average skin reactivity was calculated by Equation 3 below, and the obtained results are shown in Table 5.

Evaluation criteria and score of skin reaction sign Symptom score - No response, normal skin 0 +- Faint or mild erythema 0.5 + Erythema, edema, and papules with clear but weak boundaries One ++ Pronounced erythema, papules and vesicles 2 +++ Severe erythema and vesicle formation 3 ++++ Cannon formation 6

[Equation 3]

24h 48h Skin reactivity ± + ++ ± + ++ Formulation Example 1 - - - - - - 0.00 Formulation Example 2 - - - - - - 0.00 Formulation Example 3 - - - - - - 0.00 Formulation Example 4 - - - - - - 0.00 Formulation Example 5 - - - - - - 0.00 Formulation Example 6 - - - - - - 0.00

As shown in Table 5, it was found that the formulation containing the extract of the birches of the present invention does not cause human skin irritation.

Hereinafter, a preferred formulation example is presented to aid the understanding of the present invention. However, the following formulation examples are provided only for easier understanding of the present invention, and the contents of the present invention are not limited by the formulation examples.

Formulation example  1: Flexible makeup ( skin )

As shown in Table 6 below, the softening agent containing the extract of Example 2 was prepared according to a conventional method.

ingredient Content (% by weight) Extract of Example 2 1.0 glycerin 5.0 1,3-butylene glycol 3.0 Betaine 1.0 Allantoin 0.1 EDTA-2Na 0.02 Sodium hyaluronate powder 0.05 ethanol 5.0 Octyldodeseth-16 0.2 Polyoxyethylene cured castor oil 0.2 antiseptic Proper Purified water Balance Sum 100

Formulation Example 2: Nutrient make-up (lotion )

As shown in Table 7 below, nutrient makeup containing the extract of Example 2 was prepared according to a conventional method.

ingredient Content (% by weight) Extract of Example 2 2.0 Glyceryl stearate SE 1.5 Cetearyl alcohol 1.0 Shea butter 1.5 Polysorbate 60 1.3 Sorbitan stearate 0.5 Hydrogenated vegetable oil 1.0 Mineral oil 5.0 Squalane 3.0 Cyclomethicone 2.0 Dimethicone 0.8 Tocopherol acetate 0.5 Carbomer 0.12 glycerin 5.0 1,3-butylene glycol 3.0 Sodium hyaluronate powder 0.05 Triethanolamine 0.12 antiseptic Proper Purified water Balance Sum 100

Formulation example  4: Massage cream

As shown in Table 8 below, a massage cream containing the extract of Example 2 was prepared according to a conventional method.

ingredient Content (% by weight) Extract of Example 2 2.0 Glycerin monostearate 1.5 Cetearyl alcohol 1.5 Stearic acid 1.0 Polysorbate 60 1.5 Sorbitan stearate 0.6 Isostearyl Isosterate 5.0 Squalane 5.0 Mineral oil 35.0 Dimethicone 0.5 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.12 glycerin 6.0 1,3-butylene glycol 3.0 Triethanolamine 0.3 antiseptic Proper Purified water Balance Sum 100

Formulation example  5: Essence

As shown in Table 9 below, an essence containing the extract of Example 2 was prepared according to a conventional method.

ingredient Content (% by weight) Extract of Example 2 2.0 glycerin 6.0 Betaine 5.0 PEG 1500 2.0 Allantoin 0.1 EDTA-2Na 0.02 Hydrogenated lecithin 0.6 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.1 Sodium hyaluronate powder 0.08 Carboxyvinyl polymer 0.2 Triethanolamine 0.2 Ceramide 0.2 Octyldodecanol 3.0 Squalane 3.0 Polysorbate 60 0.4 Glyceryl stearate SE 1.5 antiseptic Proper Purified water Balance Sum 100

Formulation example  6: Pack

As shown in Table 10 below, a pack containing the extract of Example 2 was prepared according to a conventional method.

ingredient Content (% by weight) Extract of Example 2 1.0 Polyvinyl alcohol 15.0 Cellulose gum 0.15 glycerin 3.0 PEG 1500 2.0 Betaine 2.0 Allantoin 0.1 Triethanolamine 0.2 Nicotinamide 0.5 ethanol 6.0 PEG 40 hardened castor oil 0.3 antiseptic Proper Purified water Balance Sum 100

Claims (5)

Derris dalbergioides Baker) cosmetic composition for skin whitening, characterized in that it contains an extract. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the Bach tree extract contains 0.001 to 30.0 wt% of the total composition. The method of claim 1, wherein the extract of bech wood is extracted using an extraction solvent selected from purified water, methanol, ethanol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexane, dichloromethane, dichloroethane, ethyl acetate and mixtures thereof. Cosmetic composition characterized in that. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the beech tree extract is extracted through reflux cooling extraction, cold needle extraction, hot water extraction, room temperature extraction, warming extraction, ultrasonic extraction, or supercritical extraction. According to claim 1, wherein the composition is a group consisting of a solution, suspension, emulsion, paste, gel, cream, lotion, powder, soap, surfactant-containing cleaning, oil, powder foundation, emulsion foundation, wax foundation and spray Cosmetic composition having one type selected from.