KR101608688B1 - Water-in-oil emulsified makeup cosmetic composition using gums in water phase - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition having high formulation stability and stability of colorant dispersibility due to the progression of water droplets. More particularly, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a water-in-oil emulsified type makeup cosmetic composition, The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition having stable thixotropic properties and a process for producing the same.

Water-solubility agent, formulation stability, colorant dispersibility, water-in-oil emulsion type, thixotropic agent

Description

[0001] The present invention relates to a water-in-oil emulsified makeup cosmetic composition using gums in water phase,

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition having high formulation stability and stability of colorant dispersibility due to the progression of water droplets. More particularly, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a water-in-oil emulsified type makeup cosmetic composition, The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition having stable thixotropic properties and a process for producing the same.

Common functions of make-up cosmetics cover the defects of the skin, and it has the function of summarizing the skin texture and beautifully glazing the skin by the color, and the function of covering the defect of the skin and giving the color and the beauty of the skin are mostly It can be said that it is carried out by a foundation component in makeup cosmetics, specifically, by a pigment component in a foundation component. These pigments play an important role in determining the quality of the cosmetic material. The physical properties represented by the physical properties such as the particle size and the shape of the powder, and the physical properties represented by the chemical properties are different, and as a result, , Persistency, softness, and the like. There is a slight difference depending on the formulation, but the stability is also affected.

In general, pigments have a characteristic of being settled by gravity in the system, and they have an influence on the emulsification interface depending on the surface properties of the pigment, so that they are closely related to emulsion stabilization. Therefore, in order to stabilize the pigment in the emulsification system of the emulsifying make-up cosmetic composition containing the pigment, wax for maintaining viscosity and adsorbed on the surface of the pigment to impart a coating effect, thereby preventing dispersion of the emulsion, A dispersant, and an emulsifier for forming uniform emulsified particles and securing the stability of the emulsion interface are used in excess in comparison with skin care formulations such as general lotions and creams.

However, in the case of cream or liquid makeup products using such a large amount of wax, dispersant, emulsifier and the like, the feeling of use is heavy, oily and sticky, which gives a considerable burden to the skin. Particularly, in the case of dispersant, since the molecular weight is large and the structure is large due to the physical and chemical characteristics of the substance, it can be very sticky when used in large amounts, and when the contents are hand-applied and applied to the skin, In addition, the emulsifier used in the water-in-oil type emulsion has a role as a water-based detergent, thereby causing a considerable deterioration in the properties of the toilet paper against water or perspiration.

On the other hand, in the case of emulsified formulations, it is largely divided into an oil-based cosmetic composition and a water-based cosmetic composition. In the case of oil-in-water cosmetics, the trauma is water, and in the case of water-in-oil cosmetics, the trauma is oil-based.

Generally, at least 90% of the makeup cosmetic composition is made into a water-in-oil type formulation. This is because of the excellent dispersibility of pigments and pigments coated with dimethicone or alkylsilane series. Specifically, the dispersion by coating pigments is mainly made in the trauma, because the trauma is oily, so that it contains more pigments and pigments It is because.

In addition, make-up cosmetics for in-water type are excellent in sustainability. One of the important basic properties of the makeup cosmetic composition is persistency to sweat or sebum. The underwater type makeup cosmetic composition is easily removed by water or sweat, and has a disadvantage that it is not easy to exhibit its properties as a makeup cosmetic ingredient because its covering power is not high.

As such, the make-up cosmetic composition is generally prepared in the form of a water-in-oil type, and the composition in the water-in-oil type generally progresses only in the trauma so that the hardness and viscosity, which are external physical properties of the formulation, are controlled. However, to date, there has been no study on the physical properties, stability and sensation of use of emulsion through intumescent growth. This is because it is difficult to control the uniform size of the emulsion when the inner phase having a viscosity is placed inside the emulsion.

The inventors of the present invention have conducted intensive studies to improve formulation stability, pigment dispersibility, feeling of use, and the like of the water-in-oil formulations by increasing the water-in-oil phase in the water-in-oil cosmetic composition. As a result, And that the use of a water-soluble gum on the top of the inner layer of the inner layer can increase the dispersion stability of the pigment to increase the stability of the formulation and can develop a cosmetic composition having a light feeling without stickiness.

Accordingly, it is an object of the present invention to provide a makeup cosmetic composition for a water-in-oil type emulsion which improves the dispersion stability of a makeup pigment and enhances the feeling of use through water-wise increase by gum.

In order to provide the above object, the present invention provides a water-based emulsifying makeup cosmetic composition comprising a water-soluble organic thickener of a natural polymer substance in a water-based composition using a pigment.

The composition of the water-in-oil type emulsion type cosmetic composition of the present invention increases the stability of the gel dispersion of the pigment due to the increase in the water-sagging property, and has a light and moist feel and high formulation stability. In addition, it has irreversible thixotropy, so that the texture of a makeup cosmetic composition having a low viscosity even in the appearance of a gel can be realized.

In the water-in-oil type makeup cosmetic composition of the present invention, a water-soluble thickener is used in the upper part of the hair to ensure the stability of the formulation.

The water-soluble thickener is divided into an inorganic thickener composed of an inorganic metal oxide and an organic thickener composed of a water-soluble polymer substance. Among them, the inorganic thickener is highly likely to generate skin allergies, so that the water-soluble organic thickener is used in the present invention.

Examples of the water-soluble organic thickener include synthetic polymers such as carbomer (Formula 1), cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxystarch phosphate and flocker, and xanthan gum (Formula 2), carrageenan gum, locust bean gum, Gum, and the like. In the present invention, it is preferable to use a natural polymer material. More preferably at least one selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, carrageenan gum and locust bean gum, and particularly preferably 20 to 45 wt%, 5 to 20 wt% of xanthan gum, carrageenan gum and locust bean gum, By weight and 35 to 75% by weight, respectively.

In the present invention, the water-soluble organic thickener is contained in an amount of 0.01 to 5.0% by weight, preferably 0.03 to 2.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. If it is contained in an amount less than 0.01% by weight, a sufficient water uptake effect can not be obtained. If it is more than 5.0% by weight, the hardness of the formulation becomes high and a solid gel is hardly taken by the user. There is a disadvantage that only the cream container can be used because there is a limit to the storage container of the composition.

In the composition of the present invention, the viscosity of the aqueous phase containing the thickening agent is preferably 1000 to 6000 cps, and more preferably 2500 to 5000 cps. This is because when the viscosity is less than 1000 cps, the desired formulation stability, pigment dispersibility, and feeling can not be obtained. If the viscosity is more than 6000 cps, the size distribution of the emulsion becomes wider, which may affect long-term stability of the formulation.

On the other hand, the water-in-oil emulsion can be divided into aqueous dispersion and oil dispersion depending on the dispersed phase of the pigment. Generally, in a water-in-oil emulsion, pigments coated with an alkylsilane or dimethicone are dispersed in the oil phase. In this case, since the pigment is located at the outer portion of the emulsion, the formulation is stable because it is dispersed in the traumatic fluid rather than the aqueous phase. However, when the pigment is dispersed in the aqueous phase of the inner phase, it is possible to disperse more pigment and more uniform pigment, and to improve the disadvantage of the formulation due to oil phase dispersion.

Therefore, in the present invention, the pigment is dispersed in a water-based material, and a silica-coated raw material is used for aqueous dispersion. Since the surface of the pigment is hydrophilic due to the coating of silica, the dispersibility in the aqueous system can be ensured.

The makeup cosmetic composition according to the present invention is a composition having a thixotropic property, which is in a gel state with low fluidity, but provides the same feeling of use as the composition of the liquid formulation, and is excellent in pigment dispersibility and formulation stability.

The makeup cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be prepared in formulations such as foundation, makeup base, primer and the like.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples and Comparative Examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto.

[Referential Example 1] Preparation of Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5

The oil-in-water emulsion type foundations of Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 were prepared in a conventional manner with the composition shown in Table 1 below. Comparative Example 1 was a control group without a water phase incrementer, Comparative Examples 2 to 5 used a thickening agent of a synthetic polymer material, and Examples 1 to 4 used natural polymer materials. In addition, pigments were used in which all of the pigments had the same silica coating and had hydrophilic properties on their surfaces.

The method of including the thickener in the aqueous phase is as follows. The water component was pre-mixed with an agi-mixer to dissolve it in a liquid phase without crystals. The speed of the agitator was adjusted from 200 rpm to 500 rpm, Polymeric materials were uniformly dispersed and wetted to increase the dispersing and increasing efficiency of the thickener. The increased water phase was slowly added to the previously prepared oil phase at a rate of 100-1000 ml / min so that the emulsion of the water phase component could have a uniform size.

division Raw material name Comparative Example
One Comparative Example
2 Comparative Example
3 Comparative Example
4 Comparative Example
5 Example
One Example
2 Example
3 Example
4 Emulsifier Cetyl phage / piperazine-10/1 dimethicone 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Oil component Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 Dicaprylyl carbonate 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 Squalane 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 Cetyl phage / piperazine-10/1 dimethicone 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Emulsions Diastereomeric hectorite 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Pigment Oil-based pigment 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 Pigment Water pigment 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Water component Purified water To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 Butylene glycol 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 glycerin 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Disodium iodide 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Sodium chloride 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Phenoxyethanol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 ethanol 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Augmentation agent Carbomer - 0.5 - - - - - - - Cetylhydroxyethylcellulose - - 0.5 - - - - - - Hydroxy starch phosphate - - - 0.5 - - - - - Pollock Sommer - - - - 0.5 - - - - Xanthan gum - - - - - 0.5 - - - Carrageenan sword - - - - - - 0.5 - - Locust bean gum - - - - - - - 0.5 - Gellan gum - - - - - - - - 0.5

[Experimental Example 1] Stability test according to the type of the aqueous thickener

Using the above Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5, the emulsion stability and pigment dispersibility of the foundation were evaluated according to the kind of the water-soluble thickener used.

The evaluation of emulsification stability was carried out for one week while changing the temperature in a shaking incubator capable of temperature control. One temperature cycle was carried out for 8 hours at -10 ° C, 30 ° C and 45 ° C, and 7 days were measured with 1 cycle per day to determine whether problems such as oil separation, banding, and precipitation occurred. The results were calculated based on the total of 5 data for all the samples. The results were expressed as O when there was no abnormality in all 5 times, Δ when there was more than 1 twice, and X when there were more than 3 times. The pigment dispersion was judged according to the degree of dispersion of the pigment in aqueous dispersion and evaluated on the same basis as the emulsion stability described above. The results are shown in the following Table 2 and Figs.

Comparative Example Example One 2 3 4 5 One 2 3 4 Emulsion stability X O O Δ Δ O O O O Pigment dispersibility X O Δ Δ Δ O Δ O O

From Table 2, it can be seen that the stability is unstable and the stability is maintained as a whole only in Comparative Example 1 in which the water-based buildup is not performed. In addition, it can be confirmed that it is relatively more stable when it is increased by natural polymers (Examples 1 to 4) as compared with the synthetic polymers (Comparative Examples 2 to 5). In the case of pigment dispersion, it was not dispersed evenly with thin band except the increase by carbomer among synthetic polymers, and it was stable except for carrageenan gum in natural polymer.

It can be seen from FIGS. 1 to 3 that the emulsion is unstable in the case of Comparative Example 1 in which the water-based scaling is not carried out as shown in FIG. 1, indicating that the size of the emulsion is uneven and the pigment dispersion is not good. Also, FIG. 2 shows that the coloring matter of Comparative Example 5, which is a composition using a synthetic polymer, polichamer, is poor in pigment dispersibility and the size of the pigment is largely worsened. On the other hand, FIG. 3 shows that the emulsion of Example 4, which is a composition using gellan gum which is a natural polymer, is uniform in size and excellent in pigment dispersibility.

As a result, it is seen that dye dispersion is poor compared to the stability of emulsification as a result of sagging. This is because the viscosity of the formulation increases during cooling after emulsification and the emulsification is stabilized somewhat.

[Test Example 2]

Using the above-described Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5, the smoothness, adhesion and stickiness of the foundation were evaluated according to the kind of the water-soluble thickener used. The higher the skin adhesion in the make-up composition, the better, but distinct from the stickiness and thus the stickiness should be increased while the stickiness is relatively low. In the case of the water-based thickening agent, the formulation stability is improved in the water-in-oil emulsion formulation and the adhesive strength is increased. On the contrary, there is a disadvantage in that it may be sticky when applied. Therefore, we tried to select synthetic or natural polymer materials with desired feel through measurement of properties that increase adhesion and reduce stickiness.

The test was conducted by 10 expert panels, and the panel test was conducted with 1,3,5,7,9 (score is better) for each item. The evaluation results are shown in Table 3 below.

Comparative Example Example One 2 3 4 5 One 2 3 4 Smoothness
(Formulation spreadability) 8 3.5 4.7 3.5 5.2 7.0 5.7 7.8 3.0 Adhesion
(Skin adhesion force) 2.8 8.0 6.5 7.3 6.5 6.5 4.3 5.4 6.0 Stickiness 3.0 7.5 6.6 7.2 5.5 4.2 4.8 3.4 4.2

As shown in Table 3, the adhesiveness of Comparative Examples 2 to 5 is somewhat higher than that of Examples 1 to 4, but the stickiness is greatly increased and the smoothness is also lowered. On the contrary, in Examples 1 to 4, smoothness and tackiness were similar to those of Comparative Example 1, but the adhesion was high, and it was confirmed that the disadvantages of the aqueous polymer thickener could be compensated.

As a result, the adhesive strength of the synthetic polymer was higher than that of the synthetic polymer except for Example 4, but the spreadability was about 2 times higher than that of the synthetic polymer in the case of the natural polymer. Able to know.

[Reference Example 2] Production of Examples 5 to 11

The oil-in-water emulsion formulations of Examples 5 to 11 were prepared in a conventional manner with the composition shown in Table 4 below. In Examples 5 to 11, natural polymer materials having high emulsification stability and pigment dispersibility, good smoothness and adhesion and relatively low stickiness were used as Test Examples 1 and 2, and the optimum mixing ratio . In Examples 5 to 11, three kinds of natural polymeric substances, namely, xanthan gum, carrageenan gum and locust bean gum, except for gellan gum whose smoothness is lowered, were used.

The determination of the content of the natural polymer material used in each example was carried out by MINIPAB through the design of the simplex core of the three components through the design of the MINITAB. The upper limit of the three gums was 0.5 wt% And proceeded to design point 10. Each design point is the 10 design points of Examples 1 to 3 and Examples 5 to 11 of Table 4 below.

division Raw material name Example 5 Example 6 Example 7 Example 8 Example 9 Example 10 Example 11 Emulsifier Cetyl phage / piperazine-10/1 dimethicone 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Oil component Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 Dicaprylyl carbonate 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 Squalane 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 Cetyl phage / piperazine-10/1 dimethicone 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Emulsions Diastereomeric hectorite 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Pigment Oil-based pigment 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 Pigment Water pigment 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Water component Purified water To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 Butylene glycol 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 glycerin 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Disodium iodide 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Sodium chloride 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Phenoxyethanol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 ethanol 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Augmentation agent Xanthan gum 0.25 0.25 - 0.167 0.333 0.083 0.083 Carrageenan sword 0.25 - 0.25 0.167 0.083 0.333 0.083 Locust bean gum - 0.25 0.25 0.167 0.083 0.083 0.333

[Test Example 3] Optimum interval setting of natural thickener

The results were evaluated in the same manner as in Test Examples 1 and 2 for the formulation stability (emulsifiable dye dispersibility), feeling (smoothness, adhesion, tackiness). Based on these results, we could propose an optimal mixing ratio section for the above five items by executing the mixture analysis method. The evaluation of each item was conducted by 10 expert panels. Panel tests were conducted with 1,3,5,7,9 index for each item (the higher the score, the better). All of the items were more likely to be formulated at higher points, and the aforementioned stickiness items were changed to stickiness improvement and evaluated. Therefore, each item has a score of 9 out of the total score, and the score of 45 points for the whole item is more satisfactory for the item. As for the organoleptic score, we set the standard for setting the optimum ratio of the natural polymer substance. The evaluation results are shown in Table 5 below.

Example One 2 3 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 Emulsion stability 8.5 6.3 8.1 5 8.6 6.2 8.0 8.2 7.0 7.9 Pigment dispersibility 4.8 2.2 4.8 3.5 5.5 2.8 3.4 4.5 3.7 4.3 Smoothness
(Formulation spreadability) 4.2 6.1 5.2 4.5 6.0 5.0 5.7 4.8 5.8 5.7 Adhesion
(Skin adhesion force) 5.8 3.3 5.1 5.2 6.0 4.6 4.9 5.5 3.5 5.6 Improving stickiness 3.0 4.5 4.3 4.3 4.5 4.8 4.2 3.1 4.2 4.0

The optimum mixing ratio was calculated by mixing the three natural polymer materials using Minitab with the experimental results of Table 5 above. As a result, it was confirmed that the mixture of xanthan gum, carrageenan gum and locust bean gum were mixed in a ratio of 20 to 45 wt%, 5 to 20 wt% and 35 to 75 wt%, respectively.

[Test Example 4] Determination of optimum water-viscosity

In order to determine the optimum water-based viscosity in the composition of the present invention, the stability in the formulation according to the viscosity was measured as follows.

Viscosity measurements were carried out using a Brookfield DV-III Viscometer after loading all the samples in the same size container (depth greater than 70 mm and width 40 mm). The measurement conditions were measured at a spindle number of 64, a spindle rotation speed of 12 rpm, and a sample temperature of 25 ° C, and the measured viscosity value was read after 1 minute, which is a constant speed after the initial rotation.

In Comparative Example 1, a small amount of water-solubilizing agent prepared by mixing xanthan gum, carrageenan gum and locust bean gum at a ratio of 4: 1: 5 was added in small amounts to prepare a total of 14 water-increasing samples in 500 cps increments from 500 cps to 7000 cps, The stability of the composition according to the formulation was compared. The results are shown in Fig.

In FIG. 4, the yellow line indicates the feeling of nutrition. The higher the value is, the more positive the positive index, and the blue line indicates the stickiness. In addition, the addition of natural thickening agent to the composition increases the stickiness continuously with the increase of the spotty, while the nourishment is limited.

As shown in Fig. 4, when the viscosity of the composition is lower than 1000 cps, both the nutritional and tackiness are low, the stability of the formulation is low and the feeling of use is poor. When the viscosity exceeds 6000 cps, Is preferably 1000 to 6000 cps. Especially, when the viscosity is from 2500 to 5000 cps, it is confirmed that the stability of the composition is excellent because the feeling of nutrition is high and the stickiness is low.

1 is an electron micrograph of Comparative Example 1. Fig.

2 is an electron micrograph of Comparative Example 5. Fig.

Fig. 3 shows an electron micrograph of Example 4. Fig.

4 is a graph showing the relationship between the formulation stability according to the water-base viscosity of Test Example 4. Fig.

Claims (6)

1. A makeup cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil type having a thixotropic property comprising a water-soluble organic thickener mixed with xanthan gum, carrageenan gum and locust bean gum, Wherein the water-soluble organic thickener is a mixture of xanthan gum, carrageenan gum and locust bean gum in a ratio of 20 to 45% by weight, 5 to 20% by weight and 35 to 75% by weight, respectively . delete delete The makeup cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the water-soluble organic thickener is contained in an amount of 0.01 to 5.0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. The makeup cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition has a viscosity of 1000 to 6000 cps. The makeup cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the pigment is coated with silica.

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