KR101334274B1 - Cosmetic Composition for Promoting Desquamation Containing the Extract of Cucurbita moschata and Castanea crenata as Active Ingredient - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for promoting keratin exfoliation, and more particularly, to a cosmetic composition for promoting exfoliation as an active ingredient of pumpkin extract and / or chestnut extract. Pumpkin extract and chestnut extract of the active ingredient of the cosmetic composition of the present invention is excellent in the exfoliation effect, when used together shows an excellent exfoliation effect by synergism, and is safe for the skin.

Pumpkin Extract, Chestnut Extract, Keratin Peel

Description

Cosmetic composition for promoting keratin exfoliation containing pumpkin extract and chestnut extract as active ingredients {Cosmetic Composition for Promoting Desquamation Containing the Extract of Cucurbita moschata and Castanea crenata as Active Ingredient}

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for promoting exfoliation with pumpkin extract and chestnut extract as active ingredients.

The skin is divided into three parts: the upper layer of skin, the epidermis, the dermis, and the subcutaneous fat layer. The double epidermis is further subdivided into stratum corneum, granule layer, pole layer, and basal layer. The epidermal cells of the basal layer are differentiated as they rise to the upper part of the skin and finally reach the stratum corneum. Epidermal cells that reach the stratum corneum lose their nuclei and are converted to dead cells as they are filled with an insoluble protein called keratin. The stratum corneum consists of differentiated epidermal cells (skin cells) and skin lipids that fill between them, which protects the body from outwards and protects the body from external physical, chemical and biological stimuli. . The keratinocytes are connected by a protein called desmosome, and as they rise up the stratum corneum, the desmosome is broken down to weaken the cohesion between keratinocytes and eventually the keratinocytes are separated from the skin. The stratum corneum consists of 15 to 20 layers for normal skin and the turn-over period when they are completely separated takes about 4 weeks for normal skin. However, aging skin, dry skin, acne skin, etc., the separation of the stratum corneum is slower than normal to produce abnormal keratinocytes, and the stratum corneum layer is thickened and rough and elasticity is reduced. In addition, the over-produced melanin stimulated from the external environment is not properly discharged skin becomes dull.

The stratum corneum, roughened by internal and external factors, promotes exfoliation and increases the activity and regeneration of cells under the stratum corneum, resulting in a transparent and smooth skin.

Retinoic acid and alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) are known to be effective in promoting exfoliation. They are also effective in removing wrinkles, synthesizing collagen, and skin regenerating ability, but in order to obtain the above cosmetic effect, alpha hydroxy acid should be contained in high concentration (1.0 ~ 10%) or strong acidity (below pH 3.5). do. However, when using cosmetics containing high concentrations or strongly acidic alpha hydroxy acid may cause skin irritation such as erythema, itching, itching, skin abnormalities or burns. In addition, the use of alpha hydroxy acid increases the sensitivity to sunlight, and eventually skin irritation such as phototoxicity and photosensitivity may occur.

Therefore, many researches have been conducted on raw materials and compositions that can remove dead skin cells and improve skin dullness without irritation related to exfoliation and skin cell regeneration. to be.

The present inventors screened a natural extract with low irritation and excellent exfoliation effect, pumpkin extract and chestnut extract is excellent in exfoliation effect and when using the two extracts at the same time confirms the synergistic exfoliation effect To complete.

Therefore, an object of the present invention to provide a cosmetic composition for promoting keratin exfoliation containing a pumpkin extract and / or chestnut extract as an active ingredient.

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition for promoting keratin exfoliation using the pumpkin extract and / or chestnut extract as an active ingredient.

The inventors of the present invention performed the screening of natural substances having a safe and excellent exfoliating effect on the skin, and confirmed that the pumpkin extract and the chestnut extract were excellent in exfoliating effect, meeting the object of the present invention described above.

Pumpkin (Pumpkin, Cucurbitaceae), which is included as an active ingredient in the cosmetic composition of the present invention, is a yearly plant belonging to the family of ferns, and its origin is cultivated in many parts of the world as South America, and in our country, oriental pumpkin (Cucurbita) native to tropical America in southern Mexico. Three species of moschata, Cucurbita maxima native to South America, and Cucurbita pepo native to North Mexico and North America are cultivated. Pumpkin in Korea has been traditionally introduced as a good food for people with weak stomach, recovery patients, postpartum edema, and is effective in hypertension, diabetes, neuralgia, women's diseases, postpartum care, fragile patients and aging prevention. Known.

Pumpkin contains carbohydrates, proteins, fats, sugars, ash, fiber, calcium, vitamins, and the like, and in particular, it contains provitamin A and carotene, which are vitamin A in the human body. In addition, the unique scent of the pumpkin's fat component is unsaturated fatty acids not only excellent effect in preventing adult diseases, but also contains the essential amino acid lecithin to improve the brain. The old pumpkin has a large amount of carotenoid compounds, which are yellow and are natural pigments used as additives for various processed foods. Such carotenoid pigments include pigment components such as carotene, lycopene and lutein. According to the composition of carotenoids, pumpkin is composed of β-carotene and α-carotene, accounting for 67-96% of the total carotenoid content.

In particular, β-carotene, which shows the effect of vitamin A, has been reported to have various pharmacological effects. There is a great deal of interest in research reports that carotene, which was thought to be a precursor of vitamin A, prevents cancer. That is, among the many carotenoids present in nature, only 10% of the carotenoids having the activity of vitamin A have been shown that the anticancer effect of carotenoids is not the precursor of vitamin A, but rather the carotenoid's unique antioxidant function or Scholars say it is related to other functions.

As the pumpkin is mature, carotene and other nutrients increase, so as not only its value as a food, but also recently as the physiological action of various components of the pumpkin has been spotlighted as a health food.

These pumpkins are used as ingredients of Chinese herbal medicines or pumpkin baths because of their rich nutritional value, unique aromas and unique flavors, and have been eaten as pumpkin starch, steamed rice cakes, rice cakes, porridges, and jeons. However, the use of pumpkin as a health supplement has been reported a lot, but has not been reported for the exfoliation effect using the same.

Pumpkin extract used in the present invention may be extracted from the fruit of the pumpkin, stems, leaves, roots, it is preferable to be extracted from the fruit of the pumpkin.

Next, chestnut (Castanea crenata), which is included as an active ingredient in the cosmetic composition of the present invention, is a fruit of chestnut which is a lead tree belonging to the oak family, chestnut tree grows over 15 m in height, and the flowers bloom in pale yellow brown in May-June. Fruits ripen in September-October. Flower ulhwa, surgical bark gulgok, bark is called medicinal bark. Chestnuts are shiny and heavy. Chestnuts are a good food that contains five major nutrients of carbohydrates, protein, fat, vitamins and minerals. Vitamin B1 is four times more rice than rice, vitamin C is the highest among tree fruits except fruits and vitamin D is also high. .

Chestnut extract used in the present invention can be extracted from the fruit of the chestnut, leaves, stems, roots, it is preferable to be extracted from the fruit (both fruit and skin).

Pumpkin extract and chestnut extract of the active ingredient of the present invention is a solvent selected from the group consisting of water, anhydrous or hydrous lower alcohol having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, acetone, ethyl acetate, butyl acetate and 1,3 butylene glycol Is preferably extracted, more preferably ethyl alcohol, butanol or methanol, even more preferably ethyl alcohol. The ethyl alcohol is preferably 70% ethyl alcohol. Suitable amounts of the extraction solvent are 1-10 times the dry weight of amber and chestnut, more preferably 5-8 times, most preferably 6 times.

Pumpkin and chestnut extracts of the present invention are prepared by a process comprising the following steps:

(a) adding dry pumpkin and a solvent selected from the group consisting of 1-10 times water, anhydrous or hydrous lower alcohol having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, acetone, ethyl acetate, butyl acetate and 1,3-butylene glycol at night Making;

(b) extracting the solvent-added pumpkin and chestnut of step (a) by heating at 40-100 ° C. for 3-20 hours or extracting at 4-40 ° C. for 1-15 days;

(c) filtering the extract of step (b) followed by aging for 7-10 days at 5-10 ° C., followed by filtration; And

(d) drying the filtrate of step (c) with a rotary evaporator.

In this case, when 1,3-butylene glycol is used as the extraction solvent, it is difficult to dry using a rotary depressurization evaporator, and thus, after performing the extraction step (b), the drying loss is adjusted to 1% (w / v).

According to one specific embodiment of the invention, the above-mentioned extraction process is carried out as follows: First, the raw pumpkin and chestnut are washed, dried and powdered, and then 70% ethyl alcohol is dried at 6 weight of the pumpkin and chestnut dry weight. Extracted at 4-40 ° C. for 5 days, then left at 5-10 ° C. for 7-10 days, followed by filtration. Subsequently, the filtrate was dried on a rotary decompression evaporator at 65 ° C. to prepare a pumpkin and chestnut extract.

On the other hand, the pumpkin and chestnut extract of the present invention includes not only the extract by the above-described extraction method, but also extracts that have undergone conventional purification processes. Obtained by various additional purification methods, such as, for example, separation using an ultrafiltration membrane having a constant molecular weight cut-off value, separation by various chromatography (manufactured for separation according to size, charge, hydrophobicity or affinity). Fractions are also construed as being included in the pumpkin and chestnut extracts of the present invention.

Pumpkin and chestnut extracts of the present invention may be prepared in powder form by additional processes such as distillation under reduced pressure and freeze drying or spray drying.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the content of the pumpkin and chestnut extract of the present invention is 0.0001-10% by weight, preferably 0.001-5% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition for exfoliating skin. At this time, when the total weight of the pumpkin and chestnut extract is less than 0.0001%, the effect is less likely to occur, and when more than 10% is likely to cause irritation to the skin, it may have a great influence on the stabilization of the formulation. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention was prepared a cosmetic composition containing 3.0% and 2.0% of the pumpkin and chestnut extract, respectively, it was confirmed that the excellent exfoliation effect of the skin by applying it directly to the skin.

In addition, the cosmetic composition for exfoliating the skin of the present invention contains ingredients commonly used in cosmetic compositions in addition to the pumpkin and balm extract as an active ingredient, such as antioxidants, stabilizers, solubilizers, vitamins, pigments and flavorings Conventional adjuvants, and carriers.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention can be prepared into any of the formulations conventionally produced in the art and can be used in the form of solutions, suspensions, emulsions, pastes, gels, creams, lotions, powders, soaps, , Oil, powder foundation, emulsion foundation, wax foundation and spray, but is not limited thereto. More specifically, it may be prepared in the form of a flexible lotion (skin), nourishing lotion (milk lotion), nourishing cream, massage cream, essence, eye cream, cleansing cream, cleansing foam, cleansing water, pack, spray or powder. .

When the formulation of the present invention is a paste, cream or gel, an animal oil, vegetable oil, wax, paraffin, starch, tracant, cellulose derivative, polyethylene glycol, silicone, bentonite, silica, talc or zinc oxide may be used as the carrier component .

In the case where the formulation of the present invention is a powder or a spray, lactose, talc, silica, aluminum hydroxide, calcium silicate or polyamide powder may be used as a carrier component. Especially, in the case of a spray, a mixture of chlorofluorohydrocarbons, propane / Propane or dimethyl ether.

When the formulation of the present invention is a solution or an emulsion, a solvent, a dissolving agent or an emulsifying agent is used as a carrier component, and examples thereof include water, ethanol, isopropanol, ethyl carbonate, ethyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, benzyl benzoate, , 3-butyl glycol oil, glycerol aliphatic ester, polyethylene glycol or sorbitan fatty acid esters.

In the case where the formulation of the present invention is a suspension, a carrier such as water, a liquid diluent such as ethanol or propylene glycol, a suspending agent such as ethoxylated isostearyl alcohol, polyoxyethylene sorbitol ester and polyoxyethylene sorbitan ester, Cellulose, aluminum metahydroxide, bentonite, agar or tracant, etc. may be used.

When the formulation of the present invention is a surfactant-containing cleansing, the aliphatic alcohol sulfate, aliphatic alcohol ether sulfate, sulfosuccinic acid monoester, isethionate, imidazolinium derivative, methyltaurate, sarcosinate, fatty acid as carrier components Amide ether sulfates, alkylamidobetaines, aliphatic alcohols, fatty acid glycerides, fatty acid diethanolamides, vegetable oils, lanolin derivatives or ethoxylated glycerol fatty acid esters and the like can be used.

Pumpkin and chestnut extract of the present invention has a lower skin irritation than alpha hydroxy acid having excellent exfoliation effect, and shows a very excellent exfoliation effect due to its synergism when used in combination with the extract.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples. It is to be understood by those skilled in the art that these embodiments are only for describing the present invention in more detail and that the scope of the present invention is not limited by these embodiments in accordance with the gist of the present invention .

Manufacturing example  1: Preparation of Pumpkin and Chestnut Extract

1 kg each of chestnuts including dried dried pumpkin and skin was finely crushed, and then extracted in 5 kg of 70% ethyl alcohol for 5 days. The extract was filtered through a 400 mesh filter cloth, cooled to room temperature, and left to mature at 5-15 ° C. for 7 days. The aged liquid was filtered through Whatman No. 2 filter paper, and the filtrate was concentrated under reduced pressure, and each of the aged liquids was dissolved in 50% 1,3-butylene glycol solution to 1% (w / v). Used.

Manufacturing example  2: Preparation of nourishing cream containing pumpkin, chestnut extract and mixed extract thereof

A nourishing cream was prepared in a cosmetic containing pumpkin, chestnut extract, and a mixed extract thereof. Both raw materials were not added as a control. According to the composition shown in Table 1, the aqueous phase component and the oil phase component were heated to 75 ℃ each, the oil phase component was mixed and emulsified in the aqueous phase component, the neutralizing agent was added and cooled to 40 ℃ and then the flavor and additives to prepare a creamy emulsion It was.

Raw material Control group Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Comparative Example 1 A phase
(Charged) Cetanol 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Glyceryl monostearate 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Liquid paraffin 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 Stearic acid 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Polysorbate 60 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 B phase
(Awards) Purified water to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 glycerin 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 Xanthan gum 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 EDTA-2Na 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Triethanolamine Suitable amount Suitable amount Suitable amount Suitable amount Suitable amount Spices, preservatives a very small amount a very small amount a very small amount a very small amount a very small amount Pumpkin Extract - 5.0 - 3.0 - Chestnut extract - - 5.0 2.0 - Glycolic Acid (AHA) - - - - 5.0

The content of components in the table is weight percent.

Experimental Example 1 Exfoliation Effect

In order to determine the exfoliation effect of the pumpkin extract and chestnut extract according to the present invention, the exfoliation promoting effect was measured using the nutrient cream of the control prepared in Preparation Example 2, Examples 1-3, Comparative Example 1. The experimental method measures the effect of cell regeneration by changing the chromaticity of the protein color change. 15 healthy adults and men and women were identified with clean pigmented spots free of pigmentation or acne, washed gently with tap water, dried, and then skin-tanned by applying 5% DHA (Dihydroxyacetone) solution twice a day for 2 days. The color of the area colored brown by DHA was measured and compared with the color difference from before sample application. After applying the sample twice a day for 2 weeks, the degree of discoloration every day was measured by the skin color measuring instrument (Chromameter, Minolta, Japan) to measure the value of L * was calculated by the exfoliation rate of the following equation 1, the results Table 2 shows.

Keratin exfoliation effect (%) = (measured after X day-DHA) / (measured before DHA-DHA)

Keratin exfoliation effect of cosmetic composition containing pumpkin extract and chestnut extract blank Control group Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Comparative Example 1 Exfoliation
effect(%) 37.32% 41.13% 61.31% 55.18% 78.2% 76.31%

(In the above table, each number is averaged three times.)

In conclusion, the cosmetic composition using the pumpkin or chestnut extract, respectively, was superior to the control group in the exfoliation effect, and when used in combination with the pumpkin extract and the chestnut extract than the product using gluconic acid, the exfoliation effect is further promoted. It can be seen that.

Experimental Example  2: human skin Patch experiment

Human skin patch using the nutritional creams of the control group, Example 1-3, and Comparative Example 1 for 20 men and women in their 20s and 30s who have never had a hypersensitivity reaction to skin irritation in the past and have no skin disease or skin allergy symptoms. The stimulus was confirmed through the test. First the test site was wiped with 70% ethanol and dried. 15 μg of the prepared test substance was added dropwise into a Fin chamber (Finn chamber, 100 × 10, EPITEST, Finland) and then airtightly wrapped inside the forearm of the subject. The patch was applied for 24 hours, the patch was removed, and the test site was marked with a marker pen. 1 hour and 24 hours after each removal (1 hour after removal, 24 hours = 24 hours, 48 hours including patch attachment) using a magnifying glass (8MC-150, DAZOR, United States) to observe the test site for erythema and edema Was observed.

The skin response was determined by the evaluation criteria and scores of the skin reactions shown in Table 3 according to the regulations of the International Contact Dermatitis Research Group (ICDRG). Table 4 shows.

Evaluation criteria and score of skin reaction Symbol score Evaluation standard -  0 No response, normal skin ±  0.5 Faint or mild erythema +  1.0 The border is clear but weak erythema, edema and palsy ++  2.0 Clear erythema, papules and small follicles +++  3.0 Severe erythema and vesicle formation ++++  6.0 Algebraic formation

Human skin patch test result division Control group Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Comparative Example 1 Skin irritation 0.41 0.53 0.38 0.45 2.08

As shown in the results of Table 4, the nutrition cream containing pumpkin extract and chestnut extract (Examples 1 and 2) and the nutrition cream containing pumpkin extract and chestnut extract at the same time (Example 3) are alpha hydroxy acid. Skin irritation was significantly lower than that of these products.

Hereinafter, although the soft cosmetics, milk lotion, massage cream, essence, and the pack are illustrated as prescription examples of the present invention, the formulation of the cosmetic composition of the present invention is not necessarily limited thereto.

Formulation Example 1: Softening Cosmetics (Skin)

ingredient Content (% by weight) Pumpkin Extract 3.0 Chestnut extract 2.0 1,3-butylene glycol 6.0 glycerin 4.0 Oleyl alcohol 1.2 Polysorbate 20 3.0 ethanol 5.0 Propylparaben 0.1 Benzophenone-9 2.0 Carbomer 0.1 Preservative, fragrance, pigment a very small amount Purified water Balance Sum 100

Prescription example  2: Milk lotion

ingredient Content (% by weight) Pumpkin Extract 3.0 Chestnut extract 2.0 Propylene glycol 6.0 glycerin 4.0 Triethanolamine 1.2 Tocopheryl acetate 3.0 Liquid paraffin 5.0 Propylparaben 0.1 Squalane 3.0 Macadamia nut oil 2.0 Polysorbate 60 1.5 Sorbitan sesquioleate 1.0 Carbomer 0.1 Preservative, fragrance, pigment a very small amount Purified water Balance Sum 100

Prescription example 3: nutrition cream

ingredient Content (% by weight) Pumpkin Extract 3.0 Chestnut extract 2.0 Propylene glycol 6.0 glycerin 4.0 Triethanolamine 0.5 Tocopheryl acetate 0.2 Liquid paraffin 10.0 Vaseline 7.0 Wax 2.0 Propylparaben 0.1 Squalane 3.0 Macadamia nut oil 2.0 Polysorbate 60 2.0 Sorbitan sesquioleate 2.5 Carbomer 0.2 Preservative, fragrance, pigment a very small amount Purified water Balance Sum 100

Prescription 4: massage cream

ingredient Content (% by weight) Pumpkin Extract 3.0 Chestnut extract 2.0 Pro-type glycerin monostearate 1.5 Stearyl alcohol 1.5 Stearic acid 1.0 Polysorbate 60 1.5 Sorbitan stearate 0.6 Isostearyl Isosterate 5.0 Squalane 5.0 Mineral oil 35.0 Dimethicone 0.5 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.12 glycerin 6.0 Triethanolamine 0.7 Methylparaben 0.2 ethanol 2 Purified water Balance Sum 100

Prescription 5: Essence

ingredient Content (% by weight) Pumpkin Extract 3.0 Chestnut extract 2.0 glycerin 10.0 Betaine 5.0 PEG 1500 2.0 Allantoin 0.1 DL-Panthenol 0.3 EDTA-2Na 0.02 Benzophenone-9 0.04 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.1 Sodium hyaruronate 8.0 Carbomer 0.2 Triethanolamine 0.18 Octyldodec-16 0.3 ethanol 0.4 Preservative, fragrance, pigment 6.0 Distilled water a very small amount Sum 100

Prescription 6: Pack

ingredient Content (% by weight) Pumpkin Extract 3.0 Chestnut extract 2.0 Polyvinyl alcohol 15.0 Cellulose sword 0.15 glycerin 3.0 PEG 1500 2.0 Sheik Destrin 0.15 DL-Panthenol 0.4 Allantoin 0.1 Monoammonium glycyrrhizin acid 0.3 Nicotinamide 0.5 ethanol 6.0 PEG 40 hardened castor oil 0.3 Preservative, fragrance, pigment a very small amount Distilled water Balance Sum 100

As described in detail above, the present invention is a pumpkin extract and chestnut extract as an active ingredient, as well as lower skin irritation than alpha hydroxy acid having excellent exfoliation effect, it is mixed with using pumpkin extract and chestnut extract alone By using it synergistically, it shows an excellent exfoliation effect corresponding to alpha hydroxy acid. Therefore, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition having low skin irritation and excellent exfoliation promoting effect.

As described above in detail certain parts of the present invention, it is apparent to those skilled in the art that these specific techniques are merely preferred embodiments, and the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto. Accordingly, the actual scope of the present invention will be defined by the appended claims and their equivalents.

Claims (5)

Containing a pumpkin extract as an active ingredient, the pumpkin extract is a cosmetic composition for promoting keratin exfoliation, characterized in that 0.001-20% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. According to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition is a cosmetic composition for promoting keratin exfoliation, characterized in that it further comprises a chestnut extract. The cosmetic composition for promoting keratin exfoliation according to claim 2, wherein the chestnut extract is contained in an amount of 0.001-20% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The method of claim 1 or 2, wherein the pumpkin and chestnut extract is selected from the group consisting of water, anhydrous or hydrous lower alcohol having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, acetone, ethyl acetate, butyl acetate and 1,3-butylene glycol Cosmetic composition for promoting exfoliation exfoliation, characterized in that extracted with an extraction solvent. The cosmetic composition for promoting keratin exfoliation according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the cosmetic composition is a formulation selected from the group consisting of softening cream, nutrient cream, massage cream, essence and pack.