KR101269888B1 - Method of manufacturing pre-dyeing cotton yarn with excellent shrinkage property - Google Patents

Method of manufacturing pre-dyeing cotton yarn with excellent shrinkage property Download PDF

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KR101269888B1
KR101269888B1 KR1020110053087A KR20110053087A KR101269888B1 KR 101269888 B1 KR101269888 B1 KR 101269888B1 KR 1020110053087 A KR1020110053087 A KR 1020110053087A KR 20110053087 A KR20110053087 A KR 20110053087A KR 101269888 B1 KR101269888 B1 KR 101269888B1
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South Korea
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cotton
yarn
cotton yarn
knitted fabric
iii
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KR1020110053087A
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Korean (ko)
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KR20120134290A (en
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대 현 조
창 열 여
준 수 박
지 미 김
후지 타츠유키
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(주)시마
한국섬유개발연구원
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/18Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/02Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/26Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre with characteristics dependent on the amount or direction of twist
    • D02G3/28Doubled, plied, or cabled threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/32Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
    • D06M11/36Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with oxides, hydroxides or mixed oxides; with salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
    • D06M11/38Oxides or hydroxides of elements of Groups 1 or 11 of the Periodic Table
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/58Material containing hydroxyl groups
    • D06P3/60Natural or regenerated cellulose
    • D06P3/66Natural or regenerated cellulose using reactive dyes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P5/00Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
    • D06P5/20Physical treatments affecting dyeing, e.g. ultrasonic or electric
    • D06P5/2066Thermic treatments of textile materials
    • D06P5/2077Thermic treatments of textile materials after dyeing
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41BSHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
    • A41B2500/00Materials for shirts, underwear, baby linen or handkerchiefs not provided for in other groups of this subclass
    • A41B2500/10Knitted
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/061Load-responsive characteristics elastic
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/02Underwear

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Abstract

본 발명은 신축기능성 선염 면사의 제조방법에 관한 것으로서, 구체적으로는 면편물 제조시 선염 면사의 사용되는 면사를 (ⅰ) 면사 1가닥에 꼬임을 가하여 상기 면사에 제1차 형태적 변화를 부여하는 하연공정 및 (ⅱ) 상기 하연공정을 거쳐 제1차 형태적 변화가 일어난 상기 면사 2가닥 이상을 합사하면서 꼬임을 가하여 상기 면사들에 제2차 형태적 변화를 부여하는 상연공정을 차례로 거쳐 제조하는 것을 특징으로 한다.
또한 본 발명을 상기와 같이 제1차 및 제2차 형태적 변화가 일어난 면사를 사용하여 제편한 편물을 정련, 축소시킨 다음 화학처리에 의하여 면편물의 형태를 고정시키는 것과, 형태고정 및 염색처리된 면편물을 디니팅시키는 것을 특징으로 한다.
본 발명으로 제조된 신축기능성 선염 면사는 면사 고유의 우수한 보온성, 보습성, 흡습성, 쾌적성등을 구비함과 동시에 면섬유 단독으로도 신축성기능성도 뛰어난 효과가 있다.
The present invention relates to a method for producing stretch functional yarn dyed cotton yarn, specifically, in the manufacture of cotton knitted fabric, by applying twist to the first strand of cotton yarn (ⅰ) cotton yarn to impart a first morphological change to the cotton yarn. (Ii) through a step of forming a second morphological change to the cotton yarns by applying twisting while braiding two or more strands of the cotton yarn in which the first morphological change has occurred through the low rolling process; It is characterized by.
In addition, the present invention is to use the cotton yarn in which the first and second morphological changes as described above to refine and reduce the knitted fabric and then to fix the shape of the cotton knitted fabric by chemical treatment, form fixing and dyeing treatment It is characterized in that the knitting cotton knit.
The elastic functional yarn dyed yarn manufactured according to the present invention has excellent thermal insulation, moisture retention, hygroscopicity, comfort, etc. inherent in cotton yarn, and also has excellent elastic functional properties as well as cotton fiber alone.

Description

신축기능성 선염 면사의 제조방법{Method of manufacturing pre-dyeing cotton yarn with excellent shrinkage property}Method of manufacturing pre-dyeing cotton yarn with excellent shrinkage property

본 발명은 신축기능성을 발현하는 선염 면사의 제조 방법에 관련된 것이다. The present invention relates to a method for producing a dyed cotton yarn expressing stretch functionality.

면섬유는 인류가 가장 많이 사용하고 있는 섬유로 인조섬유가 발달함에 따라 전체 섬유의 소비량에서 면섬유가 차지하는 비중은 점차 줄어들었지만, 여전히 세계 전체 섬유 소비량의 40~50% 가까이를 차지하고 있다. 면은 내구성과 흡습성이 좋아 착용감이 좋고, 오염을 잘 흡수하여 위생적이며, 세탁이 쉬우며 섬유의 손상이 적고, 염색성 및 견뢰도가 우수하다. 면은 속옷을 비롯하여 모든 의복의 재료로 사용되나, 단점으로는 구김이 잘 생기고 형태안정성이 부족하며 또한, 면 자체로는 신축성을 가지기가 힘들다는 것이다. 따라서 면섬유는 합성 섬유와 혼방하거나 특수 가공법을 통해 방축성, 방추성, 발수성 등 여러 가지 특징을 가진 직물을 개발하여 인조섬유의 발달에도 불구하고 여전히 널리 애용되고 있다.Cotton fiber is the most widely used fiber of mankind. As artificial fiber develops, cotton fiber accounts for less than 50% of the world's fiber consumption. Cotton has good durability and hygroscopicity, so it is comfortable to wear, absorbs dirt well, is hygienic, easy to wash, less damage to fibers, and excellent dyeability and color fastness. Cotton is used as a material for all garments, including underwear, but the disadvantage is that wrinkles are good and form stability is insufficient, and cotton itself is difficult to have elasticity. Therefore, cotton fibers are still widely used despite the development of artificial fibers by blending with synthetic fibers or developing fabrics having various characteristics such as shrinkage, spindleability, and water repellency through special processing methods.

최근의 섬유제품동향은 기술의 진보와 소비자 수준향상, 국제환경의 변화로 수요자의 다양한 욕구에 맞추어 각종 기능성 섬유가 상품화 되어 판매되고 있다. 특히 요즘과 같이 웰빙과 편안한 삶을 중요시하는 소비자들은 자신의 몸에 꼭 맞고 편안하며 그 특성이 지속적이며 취급하기가 편리(easy care)한 옷을 원하고 있으며, 또한 TV나 각종 대중매체가 발달하여 패션에 민감한 젊은 층은 물론 청장년에 이르기까지 자신의 개성을 표현하기 위한 매개체로써 의류를 구매하기 때문에 캐주얼하면서도 아름다운 체형미를 갖고 싶어 하는 인간본능을 만족시키기 위한 신축성 소재는 꾸준히 개발되고 있다.
Recently, the trend of textile products is that various functional textiles are commercialized and sold in accordance with various needs of consumers due to technological advances, consumer level improvement, and changes in the international environment. In particular, these days, consumers who value well-being and a comfortable life want clothes that fit their body, are comfortable, have a constant and easy care, and also develop TV and various media. Since they purchase clothing as a medium for expressing their individuality, not only young people who are sensitive to fashion but also young adults, elastic materials are constantly being developed to satisfy human instincts that want to have a beautiful and beautiful body.

면섬유는 여전히 천연섬유만이 가지는 뛰어난 보온성, 보습성, 흡습성, 착용 후 쾌적성, 청결성, 타 섬유와의 혼방성을 가지는 동시에 최근에는 2차 환경오염을 일으키지 않는 환경친화성 소재로 부각되고 있어 세계적으로 시장성의 확대가 예상되나 면섬유 단독으로는 신축성을 가질 수 없다는 한계를 가지고 있다는 사실을 파악하고 본 발명자들은 면섬유 만으로도 신축기능성을 부여하기 위한 다양한 연구개발을 추진한 결과 본 발명을 완성하게 되었다.Cotton fiber is still emerging as an environmentally friendly material that does not cause secondary environmental pollution in recent years as it has excellent thermal insulation, moisture retention, hygroscopicity, comfort after wearing, cleanliness, and blending with other fibers. The market is expected to expand, but grasps the fact that cotton fiber alone cannot have elasticity, and the present inventors have completed various researches and developments to impart stretch functionality even with cotton fiber alone.

현재까지 합성섬유나 천연섬유에 신축기능성을 부여하는 방법들을 살펴보면, 첫번째 방법으로는 열가소성 섬유인 합성섬유를 가연가공하여 섬유의 권축을 이용하는 방법이 있고, 두번째 방법으로는 섬유의 토르크(Torque)를 이용하는 것으로서 섬유를 가연하면 할수록 꼬임이 반대로 되돌아 가려는 성질을 이용하여 섬유를 합가연-열고정-해연시켜 코일상 신축성을 부여하는 방법이 있고, 세번째 방법으로는 폴리우레탄사, 폴리부틸렌테레프탈레이트 원사 등과 같은 탄성사를 이용하여 일반 섬유와 탄성사를 복합가공하는 방법이 있고, 네번째 방법으로는 셀룰로오즈 섬유를 무긴장 상태에서 처리하여 상기 셀룰로오즈 섬유를 원사 단면 방향으로 팽윤시켜 원사 길이방향으로 수축하려는 성질을 이용하여 액암처리 후 직물상태로 수지와의 가교결합시켜 신축성과 형태안정성을 부여하는 슬랙 메세르화(Slack mercherizing) 등의 염색 가공에 의한 방법이 있고, 다섯번째로는 경위사의 접결점이 적을수록 간격이 클수록 신축성이 양호한 직물을 얻을 수 있다는 점을 이용하여 직물 조직과 규격을 적정하게 설정하는 방법이 있다.Looking at the methods to give elasticity to synthetic fibers or natural fibers to date, the first method is to use the crimping of the fiber by processing the synthetic fiber, a thermoplastic fiber, and the second method is to use the torque of the fiber (Torque) The more twisted the fiber, the more twisted the fiber becomes, and the more twisted-heat-fixed-decomposed fiber is used to give coil elasticity. The third method is polyurethane yarn and polybutylene terephthalate yarn. There is a method of complex processing of ordinary fibers and elastic yarns using elastic yarns, etc. The fourth method is to use cellulose fiber in the tensionless state to swell the cellulose fibers in the yarn cross-sectional direction to shrink in the yarn length direction. After cross-linking with resin in the fabric state There is a method by dyeing processing such as Slack mercherizing, which gives elasticity and shape stability.Fifth, the smaller the connection point of the warp yarn is, the larger the distance is, and the better elastic fabric is used. There is a way to properly set the fabric structure and specifications.

그러나 면섬유에 신축기능성을 발현시키는 방법은 커버링사, 코어스판사가 개발된 이래로 진전이 없었다는 것을 알게 되었다.However, it has been found that the method of expressing the stretch function in cotton fibers has not progressed since the development of covering yarn and core span yarn.

본 발명은 100% 선염 면사에 신축기능성을 발현시키는 것과 관련한 기술로서 면사에 형태적인 변화를 준 다음 나노기술로서 면사의 결정구조를 변화시켜 형태적인 변화를 고정시킴으로써 면사가 신축기능성을 발현하도록 한 것이다.
The present invention is a technique related to expressing the stretch function in 100% ombre yarn, and then give the yarn a morphological change by fixing the morphological change by changing the crystal structure of the cotton yarn as nanotechnology. .

본 발명에서는 100% 선염 면사에 양호한 신축기능성을 부여하는 것을 과제로 한다.An object of the present invention is to provide good stretch functionality to 100% ombre yarn.

또한 본 발명에서는 면사 고유의 우수한 보온성, 보습성, 흡습성, 쾌적성 등을 구비함과 동시에 신축성도 뛰어난 100% 선염 면사를 제공하는 것을 과제로 한다.Another object of the present invention is to provide a 100% ombre-dyed cotton yarn having excellent stretchability and excellent elasticity as well as excellent thermal insulation, moisture retention, hygroscopicity, and comfort inherent in cotton yarn.

이와 같은 과제들을 달성하기 위해서, 본 발명은 100% 면사에 신축기능성을 발현시키는 것과 관련한 기술로서 면사에 형태적인 변화를 준 다음 나노기술로서 면사의 결정구조를 변화시켜 형태적인 변화를 고정시킴으로써 면사에 신축기능성을 발현하도록 한 것이다.In order to achieve these problems, the present invention is a technique related to expressing the stretch functionality in 100% cotton yarn, and then give a morphological change to the cotton yarn and then change the crystal structure of the cotton yarn as nanotechnology to fix the morphological change to the cotton yarn. It is to express the elastic functional.

구체적으로, 면편물 제조시 사용되는 면사를 (ⅰ) 면사 1가닥에 꼬임을 가하여 상기 면사에 제1차 형태적 변화를 부여하는 하연공정 및 (ⅱ) 상기 하연공정을 거쳐 제1차 형태적 변화가 일어난 상기 면사 2가닥 이상을 합사하면서 꼬임을 가하여 상기 면사들에 제2차 형태적 변화를 부여하는 상연공정을 차례로 거쳐 제조하는 것을 특징으로 한다.Specifically, a twisting process of applying cotton yarn used in the manufacture of cotton knitted fabric to twist one strand of cotton yarn to impart a first morphological change to the cotton yarn, and (ii) a first morphological change through the lower rolling process. It is characterized in that it is manufactured through a series of steps to give a second morphological change to the cotton yarns by twisting while twisting the two or more strands of cotton yarn generated.

또한 본 발명을 상기와 같이 제1차 및 제2차 형태적 변화가 일어난 면사를 사용하여 제편한 편물을 정련, 축소시킨 다음 수산화칼륨, 수산화나트륨 수용액 등으로 화학처리 하여 면편물의 형태를 고정시키는 것과, 형태고정 및 염색처리된 면편물을 디니팅 시키는 것을 특징으로 한다.
In addition, the present invention is to use a cotton yarn in which the first and second morphological changes as described above to refine and reduce the knitted fabric and then chemically treated with potassium hydroxide, aqueous sodium hydroxide solution to fix the shape of the cotton knitted fabric And, it is characterized in that the knitting of the shape-fixed and dyed cotton knitted fabric.

본 발명으로 제조된 신축기능성 선염 면사는 면사 고유의 우수한 보온성, 보습성, 흡습성, 쾌적성 등을 구비함과 동시에 면사 단독으로도 신축기능성이 뛰어난 효과가 있다.
The elastic functional yarn dyed yarn manufactured by the present invention has excellent thermal insulation, moisture retention, hygroscopicity, comfort, etc. inherent in cotton yarn, and at the same time, cotton yarn alone has excellent elasticity.

이하, 본 발명을 상세하게 설명한다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

본 발명에 따른 신축기능성 선염 면사의 제조방법은 The manufacturing method of the elastic functional ombre cotton yarn according to the present invention

(ⅰ) 면사 1가닥에 꼬임을 가하여 상기 면사에 제1차 형태적 변화를 부여하는 하연공정:(Iii) twisting on one strand of cotton yarn to impart a first morphological change to the cotton yarn:

(ⅱ) 상기 하연공정을 거쳐 제1차 형태적 변화가 일어난 상기 면사 2가닥 이상을 합사하면서 꼬임을 가하여 상기 면사들에 제2차 형태적 변화를 부여하는 상연 공정:(Ii) a twisting process of twisting two or more strands of the cotton yarn in which the primary morphological change has occurred through the lower rolling process to impart a second morphological change to the cotton yarns:

(ⅲ) 상기 상연공정으로 제조된 면사를 사용하여 면편물을 제편하는 제편공정:(Iii) A knitting process for weaving cotton knitted fabrics using cotton yarns prepared by the above-mentioned staging process:

(ⅳ) 상기 제편공정에서 제편된 면편물을 정련 및 축소시키는 정련공정:(Iii) refining and refining the cotton knitted in the knitting process:

(ⅴ) 정련처리된 면편물을 화학처리 하여 상기 면편물의 형태를 고정시키는 형태고정공정 : (Iii) Form fixing process of fixing the shape of the cotton knitted fabric by chemical treatment of the polished cotton knitted fabric:

(ⅵ) 형태고정공정을 거친 면편물을 차례로 건조, 염색 및 가공처리하는 가공공정 : 및 (Iii) Processing, drying, dyeing and processing of cotton knitted fabrics which have undergone a shape-fixing process in turn; and

(ⅶ) 상기 가공공정을 거친 면편물을 풀어서 다시 면사 상태로 변환시켜주는 디니팅 공정들을 포함하는 것을 특징으로 한다.(Iii) characterized in that it comprises a denting process for converting the cotton knitted fabric after the processing process to the cotton yarn state again.

본 발명은 먼저 면사 1가닥에 꼬임을 가하여 상기 면사에 제1차 형태적 변화를 부여하는 하연공정을 거친 후, 계속해서 상기 하연공정을 거쳐 제1차 형태적 변화가 일어난 상기 면사 2가닥 이상을 합사하면서 꼬임을 가하여 상기 면사들에 제2차 형태적 변화를 부여하는 상연 공정을 거쳐서 면편물 제조시 사용될 면사를 제조한다.The present invention is first subjected to the twisting process to impart a first morphological change to the cotton yarn by applying twist to the first strand of cotton yarn, and then the two or more strands of the cotton yarn in which the first morphological change occurred through the lower rolling process. Cotton yarns to be used in the manufacture of cotton knitted fabrics are prepared by a twisting process while applying twisting to give a second morphological change to the cotton yarns.

이때, 상기 하연공정 및 상연공정 각각에서는 면사에 300~3,500TPM(Twist Per Meter)의 꼬임수를 부여해주고, 상기 하연공정과 상연공정에서 부여되는 꼬임수의 총합을 800~4,500TPM이 되도록 하는 것이 선염 면사의 신축성 향상에 보다 바람직하다.In this case, in each of the lower and upper stages, the twist yarns of 300 to 3,500 TPM (Twist Per Meter) are given to the cotton yarn, and the total number of the twists applied in the lower and upper stages is 800 to 4,500 TPM. It is more preferable for the elasticity improvement of the dyeing yarn.

이때, 하연의 꼬임수는 방적사 제조시 부여되는 꼬임수와 추가적으로 부여되는 꼬임수를 합한 것이다.At this time, the twist number of the lower edge is the sum of the twist number and additionally the twist number that is given when the yarn is manufactured.

이렇게 합사되어 형태적인 변화가 부여된 면사는 일반 면섬유의 제편준비 및 제편공정과 유사하게 제편준비 및 제편을 하여도 큰 문제점은 발견되지 않았다.The cotton yarn, which was combined and given a morphological change, was not found to have a big problem even when preparing and knitting, similar to the preparation and knitting process of general cotton fibers.

계속해서, 상기 상연공정으로 제조된 면사를 사용하여 면편물을 제편하는 제편공정을 거친 후, 상기 제편공정에서 제편된 면편물을 정련 및 축소시키는 정련공정을 거쳐 정련처리된 면편물을 제조한다.Subsequently, the cotton yarn manufactured by the above-mentioned step is subjected to a knitting process to assemble a cotton knitted fabric, and then, a refined cotton knitted fabric is manufactured through a scouring process of refining and reducing the knitted cotton knitted in the knitting process.

계속해서, 정련처리된 면편물을 화학처리에 의하여 상기 면편물의 형태를 고정시키는 형태고정공정을 거쳐서 면편물 상에 꼬임에 의해 일어나 있는 형태적인 변화들을 고정시킨다.Subsequently, through the shape fixing process of fixing the shape of the cotton knitted fabric by chemical treatment of the polished cotton knitted fabric, the morphological changes caused by twisting on the cotton knitted fabric are fixed.

면편물의 형태고정을 위한 화학처리는 면편물을 수산화칼륨, 수산화나트륨 또는 액체 암모니아 등으로 가공처리하는 방식으로 실시 가능하며, 이때 사용하는 화학물질의 종류는 특별히 한정하는 것은 아니다.Chemical treatment for fixing the shape of the cotton knitted fabric can be carried out by processing the cotton knitted fabric with potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide or liquid ammonia, etc. The type of chemical used is not particularly limited.

이때 처리 농도는 꼬임으로 형태적인 변화가 부여된 면편물의 형태가 고정되면 되는데 본 발명자들의 실험에 의하면 수산화나트륨의 경우는 10°~ 40°Be'의 농도에서 처리조건에 따라서 면편물의 형태적인 변화가 고정된다는 것을 알 수 있었지만 반드시 이 범위의 농도에 한정하기 보다는 면사의 번수, 신축기능성의 크기, 형태고정 환경을 고려하여 결정하는 것이 보다 중요하다는 사실도 알게 되었다.At this time, the treatment concentration should be fixed to the shape of the cotton knitted fabric given a morphological change by twisting. It was found that the change was fixed, but it was also found that it was more important to make decisions based on the number of cotton yarns, the size of the stretchable function, and the shape-fixing environment, rather than being limited to concentrations in this range.

일반적으로 면섬유와 같은 셀룰로오스섬유의 결정구조는 크게 4종류로 구분할 수 있는 것으로 알려져 있다. 면, 마와 같은 천연 셀룰로오스는 셀룰로오스 결정구조Ⅰ, 레이온, 폴리노직, 큐프라와 같은 재생 셀룰로오스 및 정제 셀룰로오스와 천연셀룰로오스의 메세르화된 면은 셀룰로오스 결정구조 Ⅱ, 셀룰로오스를 액체 암모니아처리 또는 아민처리하게 되면 셀룰로오스 결정구조 Ⅲ, 글리세린과 같은 극성의 열용매중에서 고온처리하게 되면 셀룰로오스 결정구조 Ⅳ가 얻어지는 것으로 알려져 있는데 본 발명에서 면섬유를 수산화칼륨, 수산화나트륨 수용액 또는 액체 암모니아처리하게 되면 셀룰로오스 결정구조 Ⅰ이 셀룰로오스 결정구조 Ⅱ 또는 셀룰로오스 결정구조 Ⅲ으로 변환되는 것과 연관되어 면섬유의 형태가 고정되는 것이 아닌가 추측된다.In general, it is known that the crystal structure of cellulose fibers such as cotton fibers can be largely divided into four types. Natural celluloses such as cotton and hemp include cellulose crystal structure I, regenerated cellulose such as rayon, polynosic and cupra, and refined cellulose and mecerized cotton of natural cellulose, cellulose crystal structure II and cellulose. When cellulose crystal structure III, high temperature treatment in a polar solvent such as glycerin at high temperature it is known that cellulose crystal structure IV is obtained. In connection with the conversion to cellulose crystal structure II or cellulose crystal structure III, it is speculated that the shape of the cotton fiber is fixed.

계속해서, 형태고정공정을 거친 면편물을 차례로 건조, 염색 및 가공처리하는 가공공정을 거친다음, 가공공정을 거친 면편물을 풀어서 다시 면사 상태로 변환시켜 주는 디니팅공정을 거쳐 신축기능성 선염 면사를 제조한다.Then, after the process of drying, dyeing, and processing the cotton knitted fabrics which have undergone the shape fixing process, the elastic functional yarn-dyed cotton yarn is subjected to a denting process that unwinds the processed cotton knitted fabrics and converts them into cotton yarns. Manufacture.

면의 결정구조변환이후의 공정인 건조, 염색 및 고차가공공정은 일반적인 면편물의 처리공정과 큰 차이가 없이 진행하여도 본 발명이 지향하는 신축기능성 선염 면사의 제조는 가능하였다.The drying, dyeing, and higher-order processing processes after the crystal structure conversion of cotton were possible without the difference between the processing processes of general cotton knitted fabrics.

이하 실시예 및 비교실시예를 통하여 본 발명을 보다 구체적으로 살펴본다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples and Comparative Examples.

그러나, 본 발명의 보호범위는 하기 실시예들 만으로 한정되는 것은 아니다.
However, the protection scope of the present invention is not limited only to the following examples.

실시예Example 1 One

면사 40's를 800TPM의 꼬임(하연)으로 제조한 후 연지하고, 상기와 같이 꼬임(하연)처리된 상기 면사 2본을 합사한 후 1,000TPM의 꼬임(상연)을 준 다음 연지하였다. 이렇게 만들어진 면사를 사용하여 편물을 제편하였다. The cotton yarn 40's were made after twisting with 800 TPM of twisted yarn (lower lead), and after twisting the two twisted yarns (twisted) as described above, the twisted yarn of 1000 TPM was twisted and then rolled. The knitted yarn was used to knit the knitted fabric.

제편된 면편물은 일반 면편물의 정련 및 축소공정과 동일하게 통과시킨 후 수산화나트륨 수용액 24°Be'에서 10분간 상온(25℃)에서 처리하여 꼬임으로 형성시킨 면사의 형태를 고정시켰다. 그 후 개미산으로 수세하고 세정한 다음 건조시키고 고온형 반응성염료로서 CPB염색, 건조한 후 디니팅시켜 최종적으로 선염 면사를 제조하였다.The knitted cotton knitted fabric was passed in the same manner as in the refining and shrinking process of the normal cotton knitted fabric, and then fixed at a room temperature (25 ° C.) in a sodium hydroxide aqueous solution at 24 ° Be 'for 10 minutes to fix the shape of the cotton yarn formed by twisting. After that, washed with formic acid, washed, dried, and dyed CPB as a high-temperature reactive dye, dried and then finally prepared a dyed cotton yarn.

제조된 선염 면사의 신축기능성을 신축신장률로 평가하였다. 이때 사용한 평가방법은 KS K 0508 방법을 사용하였으며 그 결과를 표 1에 나타내었다.
The stretchability of the prepared yarns was evaluated by the stretch rate. The evaluation method used was KS K 0508 method and the results are shown in Table 1.

실시예Example 2 2

면사 40's를 1,000TPM의 꼬임(하연)으로 제조한 후 연지하고, 상기와 같이 꼬임(하연)처리된 상기 면사 2본을 합사한 후 1,500TPM의 꼬임(상연)을 준 다음 연지하였다. 이렇게 만들어진 면사를 사용하여 편물을 제편하였다.The cotton yarn 40's were fabricated with twisted (lower lead) of 1,000 TPM, and then twisted. After twisting the two twisted yarns as described above, the twisted yarn (1,500 TPM) was twisted and then rolled. The knitted yarn was used to knit the knitted fabric.

제편된 면편물은 일반 면편물의 정련 및 축소공정과 동일하게 통과시킨 후 수산화나트륨 수용액 28°Be'에서 10분간 상온(25℃)에서 처리하여 꼬임으로 형성시킨 면사의 형태를 고정시켰다. 그 후 개미산으로 수세하고 세정한 다음 건조시키고 고온형 반응성염료로서 CPB염색, 건조한 후 디니팅시켜 최종적으로 선염 면사를 제조하였다.The knitted cotton knitted fabric was passed in the same manner as in the refining and shrinking process of the normal cotton knitted fabric, and then fixed in the form of a twisted yarn formed by twisting the treated cotton at 28 ° Be 'for 10 minutes at room temperature (25 ° C). After that, washed with formic acid, washed, dried, and dyed CPB as a high-temperature reactive dye, dried and then finally prepared a dyed cotton yarn.

제조된 선염 면사의 신축기능성을 신축신장률로 평가하였다. 이때 사용한 평가방법은 KS K 0508 방법을 사용하였으며 그 결과를 표 1에 나타내었다.
The stretchability of the prepared yarns was evaluated by the stretch rate. The evaluation method used was KS K 0508 method and the results are shown in Table 1.

실시예Example 3 3

면사 100's를 1,500TPM의 꼬임(하연)으로 제조한 후 연지하고, 상기와 같이 꼬임(하연)처리된 상기 면사 2본을 합사한 후 1,500TPM의 꼬임(상연)을 준 다음 연지하였다. 이렇게 만들어진 면사를 사용하여 편물을 제편하였다.100's cotton yarn was fabricated with twisted (lower lead) of 1,500 TPM and then twisted, and the twisted (lower lead) twisted two yarns were treated as described above, followed by twisting (upper lead) of 1,500 TPM. The knitted yarn was used to knit the knitted fabric.

제편된 면편물을 일반 면편물의 정련 및 축소공정과 동일하게 통과시킨 후 수산화나트륨 수용액 28°Be'에서 10분간 상온(25℃)에서 처리하여 꼬임으로 형성시킨 면사의 형태를 고정시켰다. 그 후 개미산으로 수세하고 세정한 다음 건조시키고 고온형 반응성염료로서 CPB염색, 건조 한 후 디니팅시켜 최종적으로 선염 면사를 제조하였다.After passing the knitted cotton knitted fabric in the same manner as the refining and shrinking process of the normal cotton knitted fabric, the shape of the cotton yarn formed by twisting was treated in a sodium hydroxide aqueous solution at 28 ° Be 'for 10 minutes at room temperature (25 ℃). Then, washed with formic acid, washed, dried, CPB stained with a high-temperature reactive dye, dried and then dented to prepare a yarn dyed finally.

제조된 선염 면사의 신축기능성을 신축신장률로 평가하였다. 이때 사용한 평가방법은 KS K 0508 방법을 사용하였으며 그 결과를 표 1에 나타내었다.
The stretchability of the prepared yarns was evaluated by the stretch rate. The evaluation method used was KS K 0508 method and the results are shown in Table 1.

비교실시예Comparative Example 1 One

코마 면사 40's를 2합한 다음 이를 사용하여 편물을 제편하였다.Two coma cotton yarn 40's were combined and then used to knit the knitted fabric.

제편된 면편물은 일반 면편물의 정련 및 축소공정과 동일하게 통과시킨 후 수산화나트륨 수용액 28°Be'에서 10분간 상온(25℃)에서 처리하여 꼬임으로 형성시킨 면사의 형태를 고정시켰다. 그 후 개미산으로 수세하고 세정한 다음 건조시키고 고온형 반응성염료로서 CPB염색, 건조한 후 디니팅시켜 최종적으로 선염 면사를 제조하였다.The knitted cotton knitted fabric was passed in the same manner as in the refining and shrinking process of the normal cotton knitted fabric, and the shape of the cotton yarn formed by twisting was fixed by treating it at room temperature (25 ° C.) for 10 minutes in an aqueous sodium hydroxide solution at 28 ° Be '. After that, washed with formic acid, washed, dried, and dyed CPB as a high-temperature reactive dye, dried and then finally prepared a dyed cotton yarn.

제조된 선염 면사의 신축기능성을 신축신장률로 평가하였다. 이때 사용한 평가방법은 KS K 0508 방법을 사용하였으며 그 결과를 표 1에 나타내었다.
The stretchability of the prepared yarns was evaluated by the stretch rate. The evaluation method used was KS K 0508 method and the results are shown in Table 1.

비교실시예Comparative Example 2 2

면사 40's를 400TPM의 꼬임(하연)으로 제조한 후 연지하고, 상기와 같이 꼬임(하연) 처리된 상기 면사 2본을 합사한 다음 300TPM의 꼬임(상연)을 주고 다시 연지하였다. 이렇게 만들어진 면사를 편물을 제편하였다.The cotton yarn 40's were made after twisting with 400 TPM of twisted (lower lead), and the two twisted yarns treated as described above were spun together, and then twisted and twisted again with 300 TPM. The cotton yarn thus made was knitted.

제직된 면편물은 일반 면편물의 정련 및 축소공정과 동일하게 통과시킨 후 수산화나트륨 수용액 24°Be'에서 10분간 상온(25℃)에서 처리하여 꼬임으로 형성시킨 면사의 형태를 고정시켰다. 그 후 개미산으로 수세하고 세정한 다음 건조시키고 고온형 반응성염료로서 CPB염색, 건조한 후 디니팅시켜 최종적으로 선염 면사를 제조하였다.The woven cotton fabric was passed in the same manner as in the refining and shrinking process of the normal cotton knitted fabric, and then fixed in the form of twisted cotton yarn formed by twisting the treated cotton at 10 ° C (25 ° C) for 10 minutes in an aqueous sodium hydroxide solution at 24 ° Be '. After that, washed with formic acid, washed, dried, and dyed CPB as a high-temperature reactive dye, dried and then finally prepared a dyed cotton yarn.

제조된 선염 면사의 신축기능성을 신축신장률로 평가하였다. 이때 사용한 평가방법은 KS K 0508 방법을 사용하였으며 그 결과를 표 1에 나타내었다.
The stretchability of the prepared yarns was evaluated by the stretch rate. The evaluation method used was KS K 0508 method and the results are shown in Table 1.

신축신장률 평가결과New growth rate evaluation result 구 분division 신축신장률(%)Expansion rate (%) 실시예 1Example 1 3030 실시예 2Example 2 3838 실시예 3Example 3 5151 비교실시예 1Comparative Example 1 0.50.5 비교실시예 2Comparative Example 2 66

일반적으로 면직물의 신축신장률이 30이상일 때 신축기능성이 있는 것으로 평가받고 있다.In general, when the stretch rate of cotton fabric is more than 30, it is evaluated as having a stretch function.

Claims (3)

(ⅰ) 면사 1가닥에 꼬임을 가하여 상기 면사에 제1차 형태적 변화를 부여하는 하연공정:
(ⅱ) 상기 하연공정을 거쳐 제1차 형태적 변화가 일어난 상기 면사 2가닥 이상을 합사하면서 꼬임을 가하여 상기 면사들에 제2차 형태적 변화를 부여하는 상연 공정:
(ⅲ) 상기 상연공정으로 제조된 면사를 사용하여 면편물을 제편하는 제편공정:
(ⅳ) 상기 제편공정에서 제편된 면편물을 정련 및 축소시키는 정련공정:
(ⅴ) 정련처리된 면편물을 화학처리 하여 상기 면편물의 형태를 고정시키는 형태고정공정 :
(ⅵ) 형태고정공정을 거친 면편물을 차례로 건조, 염색 및 가공처리하는 가공공정 : 및
(ⅶ) 상기 가공공정을 거친 면편물을 풀어서 다시 면사 상태로 변환시켜주는 디니팅공정들을 포함하는 것을 특징으로 하는 신축기능성 선염 면사의 제조방법.
(Iii) twisting on one strand of cotton yarn to impart a first morphological change to the cotton yarn:
(Ii) a twisting process of twisting two or more strands of the cotton yarn in which the primary morphological change has occurred through the lower rolling process to impart a second morphological change to the cotton yarns:
(Iii) A knitting process for weaving cotton knitted fabrics using cotton yarns prepared by the above-mentioned staging process:
(Iii) refining and refining the cotton knitted in the knitting process:
(Iii) Form fixing process of fixing the shape of the cotton knitted fabric by chemical treatment of the polished cotton knitted fabric:
(Iii) Processing, drying, dyeing and processing of cotton knitted fabrics which have undergone a shape-fixing process in turn; and
(Iii) a method of manufacturing a stretch functional yarn dyed cotton yarn comprising a dipping process for releasing the cotton fabric having undergone the processing step and converting the cotton fabric to a cotton yarn state.
제1항에 있어서, 상기 하연공정 및 상연공정 각각에서의 꼬임수는 300~3,500TPM인 것을 특징으로 하는 신축기능성 선염 면사의 제조방법.The method of claim 1, wherein the twist number in each of the lower and upper stages is 300 to 3,500 TPM. 제1항에 있어서, 상기 하연공정과 상연공정에서 부여되는 꼬임수의 총합이 800~4,500TPM인 것을 특징으로 하는 신축기능성 선염 면사의 제조방법.The method of claim 1, wherein the total number of twists provided in the lower and upper stages is 800 to 4,500 TPM.
KR1020110053087A 2011-06-02 2011-06-02 Method of manufacturing pre-dyeing cotton yarn with excellent shrinkage property KR101269888B1 (en)

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