KR100279240B1 - Manufacturing method of polyester fabric with excellent touch and drape - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention uses a polyester / polyamide split type composite yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.3 denier or less after dividing, so that the slope is 70 to 85% of the total fabric weight, and the gradient fineness is 100 to 250 than the weft fineness. It is a manufacturing method of polyester fabric with excellent touch and draping, characterized by using as thick as a denier.

Description

Manufacturing method of polyester fabric excellent in touch and drape

The present invention relates to a method for producing a polyester fabric having excellent touch and drape properties, and more specifically, using a polyester / polyamide split composite yarn having a fineness of 0.3 denier or less after being divided into warp yarns. The weft yarn relates to a method for producing a fabric manufactured using a general polyester yarn that has a total fineness less than an inclination and a lot of twist for the expression of the drape of the fabric, the soft touch, and the cost reduction.

As a method for producing a polyester fabric excellent in touch and drape, which has been known so far, a method of manufacturing using a bi-shrink blended yarn takes a large part. Among them, Korean Patent Publication No. 93-11948 proposes a method capable of expressing natural sensation and excellent drape by using a blended yarn to prepare two-shrink blended yarn by fluidly intertwining two yarns with a heat shrinkage difference. However, the feel of the fabric produced using bishrink blended yarn is not desirable because of the smoothness of the surface due to the smoothness of the surface, and the appearance is also unsatisfactory because of the appearance of streaky phenomenon due to fluid entanglement. .

An object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a polyester fabric having a soft touch and a stripe and excellent touch and drape, which has been a problem of a biaxial blended fiber.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

First, the present invention uses a polyester / polyamide split composite yarn with a ramp, but uses a fine-use split composite yarn having a mono fineness of 0.3 denier or less after splitting.

At this time, the total weight of the ultrafine split composite yarn used as a warp fabric is manufactured so that 70 to 85% by weight of the total fabric weight.

At this time, if the content of split composite yarn is less than 70%, soft hand expression is weak, and if it exceeds 85%, the touch is extremely softly expressed, but the Koshi feels poorly, the drape is weak and the imbalance between the warp yarns in the fabric Due to this, the fabric slips during sewing.

For the preparation of the warp, a method of applying twist instead of sizing is selected, and the number of twists is preferably 300 to 600 / m.

At this time, if the number of twist is less than 300 / m, weaving is difficult due to the occurrence and cutting of the wool during weaving, and when it exceeds 600 / m it is difficult to express a soft touch.

In the preparation of the weaving, the arrangement of the inclination was arranged alternately between the incline (S) and incline (Z) inclinations according to the twisting direction, and in this case, the arrangement is preferably 1: 1 to 3: 3. Do. This not only produces a three-dimensional appearance on the surface but also improves the feel. If the arrangement is made with only one side of the left or the right side, the surface three-dimensional feeling and texture of the fabric will be reduced, and if the arrangement is more than 4: 4, it will not be possible to raise evenly when raising the bones on the surface of the fabric. Not only is it hard to get a smooth surface, it is also bad to the touch.

On the other hand, it is preferable that the weft yarn has a single yarn fineness of 1 denier or more, and the total fineness uses a finer polyester than the warp yarn, but the total fineness difference between the warp yarn and the weft yarn is 100 to 250 denier. If the degree of fineness is less than 100 denier, the soft touch is not expressed. If it exceeds 250 denier, the yarn combination of light and weft yarns is not only difficult, but the strength of the overall fabric is weak, the elasticity and drape are not only reduced, but also the wrinkles become severe. . In addition, the weft is good to give a twist of 2,000 to 3,000 / m. If it is produced by twisting less than 2,000 pieces / m, the shrinkage effect during post-processing will be small, so that both touch and drape will be weak. If it exceeds 3,000 pieces / m, the manufacturing cost will increase and the yarn workability will be poor.

Example 1

The warp yarn was divided into single yarn fineness of 0.25 denier and total fineness of 300 denier, and the composite composite yarn of polyester / polyamide was used, and the fabric was made so that the content of the split composite yarn was 85% of the total fabric weight. At this time, the warp yarns were twisted at 450 pieces / m, and weaved in the arrangement of right margin (S): left margin (Z) = 2: 2. Weft yarns were made of ordinary polyester yarn of 75 denier / 36 filaments, but gave a lot of twist of 2,500 pieces / m, weaving was made of 1/2 twill. The polyester fabric thus prepared was subjected to post processing such as refining, shrinking, heat setting, brushing, and dyeing, and the results are shown in the table by the sensory evaluation.

Example 2

It was the same as in Example 1 except that the woven fabric was made with the content of the inclined split composite yarn 70% by weight, and the results are shown in Table 1.

Example 3

Except that the number of twist of the warp was 600 / m it was the same as in Example 1 and the results are shown in Table 1.

Example 4

Except that the arrangement of the right side and the left side of the inclination of 1: 1 was the same as in Example 1 and the results are shown in Table 1.

Example 5

It was the same as in Example 1 except that the fabric was prepared by twisting the weft to 3,000 / m, the results are shown in Table 1.

Comparative Example 1

Using a general polyester as a ramp, and using a split composite yarn as a weft yarn, the content of the split composite yarn to 70% by weight was the same as in Example 1 except the weaving and the results are shown in Table 1.

Comparative Example 2

Except for sizing the warp weaving was the same as in Example 1 and the results are shown in Table 1.

Comparative Example 3

Except that the number of twists to 1,500 / m was the same as in Example 1 and the results are shown in Table 1.

Comparative Example 4

Except that the content of the split composite yarn to 60% by weight was the same as in Example 1 and the results are shown in Table 1.

Comparative Example 5

Except that the content of the split composite yarn to 90% by weight was the same as in Example 1 and the results are shown in Table 1.

Comparative Example 6

The slope was the same as that of Example 1 except that the fabric was manufactured with only one of the edges, and the results are shown in Table 1.

Comparative Example 7

Except that the number of twists of weft to 1,500 / m was the same as in Example 1 and the results are shown in Table 1.

touch Drape Castle Elasticity Wrinkle Surface stereoscopic Example 1 ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ Example 2 ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ Example 3 ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ Example 4 ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ Example 5 ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ Comparative Example 1 × × × × × Comparative Example 2 △ ○ △ △ × Comparative Example 3 △ △ △ △ ○ Comparative Example 4 × × △ △ △ Comparative Example 5 ○ × × × △ Comparative Example 6 △ ○ △ △ × Comparative Example 7 △ △ △ △ △

When the fabric produced by the present invention is processed by the conventional polyester dyeing method, it becomes a comfortable material having excellent touch, excellent volume, drape, crease resistance, and is mainly used for autumn, winter coats, jumpers, It can be widely used for outwear use such as sportswear.

Claims (1)

A polyester / polyamide split composite yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.3 denier or less after dividing is used as a warp, but the weight of the warp is 70% to 85% by weight of the total fabric weight, and the warp is 300 to 600 pieces / m, weft yarn manufacturing method of polyester fabric having excellent touch and drape, characterized in that weaving by giving a twist of 2,000 to 3,000 pieces / m, but the total fineness difference between warp and weft yarn is 100 to 250 denier.