JP2023068667A - Weft double woven fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

To provide a weft double woven fabric which is suitable for a uniform use and has shape stability and surface smoothness in addition to moderate stretchability.SOLUTION: In a weft double woven fabric, a weft yarn constituting a front texture is made of a conjugate fiber obtained by laminating polyester-based polymers different in kinds along the fiber length direction into a side-by-side type fiber or an eccentric sheath-core type fiber, and a weft yarn constituting a back texture is a spun yarn. In addition, the weft double woven fabric satisfies all of the following requirements (1) to (4): (1) an elongation in the weft direction is 13% or more, (2) a sum of elongation percentages in the weft direction and an elongation in the warp direction is 15% or more, (3) a dimensional change ratio after one time of washing is +3% to -3%, and (4) an average deviation (SMD) of a surface roughness of the fabric is 6.5 μm or less in the front texture in an unstretched state.SELECTED DRAWING: Figure 1

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a weft double woven fabric having excellent stretchability and surface smoothness.

BACKGROUND ART Conventionally, woven fabrics with a double weave have been used for sports clothing and the like. For example, in Patent Document 1, a woven fabric with a weft double weft or weft double weave having unevenness on the back surface, the yarn constituting the weft of the back weave is a moisture absorbing and releasing synthetic fiber, and it feels sticky when worn. Textiles have been proposed that are less comfortable. Patent Document 2 discloses a fabric with a double weave, in which the cover factor of the front weave and the ratio of the weft density of the front weave and the weft density of the back weave are set within a specific range, and water-repellent finishing or water-absorbing treatment is applied to make the fabric flexible. High-density fabrics have been proposed that are excellent in durability, waterproofness, and water absorption. As described above, in the double weave woven fabric, the desired properties can be imparted to the woven fabric by changing the fibers constituting the front weave and the back weave, the weave design, and the type of processing.

On the other hand, in recent years, woven fabrics used in the field of uniform clothing are strongly required to have appropriate stretchability from the viewpoint of easiness of movement, as in the case of sports clothing. Methods for imparting stretchability to fabrics generally include elastic fibers using polyurethane, polybutylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, etc., and latent crimping (crimping by hot water treatment, that is, crimping). A method of using a side-by-side type filament yarn having the property of being false twisted, a false twisted crimped yarn, and the like are known. Furthermore, in order to impart soft texture and color effects to the fabric surface in addition to stretchability when worn, it has been studied to combine spun yarn with such crimpable yarn. No. 3 proposes a union plain weave fabric in which crimped yarns are arranged in the warp (weft) and spun yarn is arranged in the weft (warp). However, in the union plain weave fabric of Patent Document 3, both crimpable fibers and spun yarns appear on the surface of the fabric. The smoothness was insufficient. In addition, in a woven fabric using both crimpable fibers and spun yarn, it is difficult to impart sufficient stretchability to the entire woven fabric because the spun yarn generally does not have extensibility.

Furthermore, since uniform clothes are washed frequently, they are required to have excellent washing durability (shape stability after washing and durability of antistatic performance). However, no fabric has yet been proposed that fully satisfies these performance requirements.

JP-A-2003-147657 JP-A-2001-348754 Japanese Patent Application No. 11-320402

Therefore, an object of the present invention is to solve the above problems, and a woven fabric using fibers and spun yarns having crimpability, in addition to moderate stretchability suitable for uniform use, shape stability, To provide a woven fabric having surface smoothness and suitable for use as a uniform.

In order to solve the above-described problems, the present inventors arrived at the present invention as a result of extensive studies.
That is, the gist of the present invention is the following (a) to (g).

(a) A woven fabric with a double weft structure, which is a composite fiber in which polyester polymers with different types of wefts constituting the surface structure are laminated in a side-by-side or eccentric core-sheath direction along the fiber length direction, A double weft fabric characterized in that the wefts forming the back weave are spun yarns and satisfy the following conditions (1) to (4) at the same time.
(1) Elongation in the weft direction measured by JIS L1096 elongation B method (load 14.7 N) is 13% or more (2) Elongation in the weft direction measured by JIS L1096 elongation B method (load 14.7 N) and the elongation in the warp direction is 15% or more. And the dimensional change rate in the weft direction is +3% to -3%.
(4) Average deviation of fabric surface roughness (S
MD) is 6.5 μm or less (B) A composite fiber in which polyester polymers with different types of wefts constituting the surface texture are laminated side-by-side along the fiber length direction, and the single filament fineness of the composite fiber is The weft double weft fabric of (a), which is 1.0 to 5.0 dtex.
(C) The weft double-layered fabric of (A) or (B), wherein at least one of the different types of polyester-based polymers is polyester mainly composed of polybutylene terephthalate.
(d) The weft double-layer fabric of (a) or (b) having an ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) of 30 or more.
(e) The double weft fabric of (a) or (b), in which at least one of the warp and the weft contains a conductive yarn.
(f) The weft double fabric of (a) or (b) used for uniforms.
(g) Clothing containing the weft double fabric of (a) or (b).

The weft double-layered woven fabric of the present invention has moderate stretchability suitable for uniform use, and is also excellent in shape stability and surface smoothness, so that it can be suitably used for various uniform clothes.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS Fig. 1 is a weft double weave design diagram showing one embodiment of the weft double weave fabric of the present invention. It should be noted that the weft yarns positioned on the first and fifth rows in the drawing are back yarns.

The present invention will be described in detail below.
The weft double fabric of the present invention (hereinafter sometimes referred to as the fabric of the present invention) is a side-by-side type or eccentric core-sheath type polyester polymer with different types of wefts constituting the surface fabric along the fiber length direction. It is a conjugated fiber (hereinafter sometimes referred to as a conjugated fiber) laminated to. The conjugate fiber preferably has excellent elongation properties, and a side-by-side type conjugate fiber is particularly preferred in order to achieve high elongation.
Since the above-mentioned conjugate fibers have latent crimpability, in the present invention, by using them for the wefts constituting the surface structure, crimps are expressed by heat treatment after knitting and weaving, and moderate stretchability is achieved. It can be a woven fabric with In addition, as described later in the present invention, the fineness of the composite fiber, the weave structure and cover factor of the front and back surfaces of the weft double weave fabric, etc. are appropriately changed, and the crimp is expressed in the composite fiber by heat treatment after knitting and weaving. By making the conjugate fibers appropriately close together, it is possible to obtain a weft double woven fabric having an excellent surface smoothness and a moderate feeling of stiffness and stiffness.
As a combination of different types of polyester-based polymers, it is preferable to use polyethylene terephthalate (hereinafter abbreviated as PET) on one side and polybutylene terephthalate (hereinafter abbreviated as PBT) on the other side. It is also possible to use PET with high viscosity and PET with low viscosity on the other side, or to use PET on one side and polytrimethylene terephthalate (hereinafter abbreviated as PTT) on the other side.
In other words, the different types of polyester-based polymers referred to in the present invention refer to two or more polymers having different compositions, or two or more polymers having the same composition but different characteristic values such as viscosity. It includes both.

These conjugate fibers preferably have a hot water dimensional change rate (absolute value) of 4.0% or more, more preferably 4.5 to 15.0%, and more preferably 5.5 to 10.0%. is more preferable. If the dimensional change in hot water is less than 4%, the obtained weft double woven fabric will be inferior in stretchability. Here, the hot water dimensional change rate of the conjugate fiber is measured according to the method described in JIS L 1095:2010 "General Spun Yarn Test Methods", "9.24 Hot Water Dimensional Change Rate", "Method A". is the value to be

In addition, these conjugate fibers are preferably composed of filament yarns having a single fiber fineness of 1.0 to 5.0 dtex and a total fineness of 40 to 100 dtex. More preferably, the total fineness is 50-90 dtex. By setting the single filament fineness and the total fineness within the above ranges, crimping is likely to occur, and good stretchability can be obtained. In addition, it is possible to suppress the wrinkled feeling of the surface of the surface texture and to provide a smooth surface.

In addition, the wefts constituting the surface structure of the double weft fabric of the present invention include fibers other than composite fibers, such as polyester fibers, polyamide fibers, and polyacrylonitrile, as long as the effect of stretchability is not impaired. synthetic fibers such as synthetic fibers, polyvinyl alcohol-based fibers, semi-synthetic fibers such as triacetate, and cellulosic fibers such as cotton, hemp, rayon, polynosic, cupra, lyocell, and acetate. In addition, the wefts may contain conductive yarns, as will be described later, as required.
Among them, as wefts constituting the surface texture, composite fibers in which different types of polyester polymers are laminated in a side-by-side type or eccentric core-sheath type along the fiber length direction are preferably contained in 90% by mass or more, and 100% by mass. % is particularly preferred.

In addition, the conjugate fiber in the present invention may contain titanium dioxide, silicon dioxide, pigment, etc., depending on the properties to be imparted.

The woven fabric of the present invention uses spun yarns as wefts forming the backing.
Spun yarns include recycled fibers such as cotton, hemp, wool, and rayon fibers, and spun yarns such as polyester fibers, polyamide fibers, acrylic fibers, and polyarylate fibers. Among them, polyester fibers and cotton are preferable.
These may be used alone, or blended yarns, double-layered spun yarns, twisted twisted yarns, spun twisted twisted yarns, etc. obtained by combining these short fibers or combining short fibers and long fibers. good too.
Among the spun yarns, the blended yarn is preferably a blended yarn of polyester fiber and cotton. Examples of the two-layer structure spun yarn include those in which the core and the sheath are respectively formed from short fibers, and those in which the core is formed from long fibers and the sheath is formed from short fibers. Among the two-layered spun yarns, those composed of a two-layered spun yarn in which a polyester fiber is arranged in the core and a cellulosic fiber is arranged in the sheath are particularly preferable.

In the present invention, by using the spun yarn for the wefts constituting the back weave, it is possible to impart the soft texture of the spun yarn to the back weave of the fabric. In addition, when the two-layer structure spun yarn as described above is used as the spun yarn, in addition to the texture of the back fabric, the hygroscopicity and the like are improved. In this way, the desired functionality can be imparted to the woven fabric of the present invention by changing the fibers constituting the spun yarn and its form.

Moreover, the spun yarn may additionally be subjected to various treatments for imparting functions such as an antistatic agent, an antibacterial agent, and a deodorant. For example, when deodorizing spun yarn is used for the weft constituting the back fabric, the fabric of the present invention can be used to make clothes, and the back fabric can be used in a state where the back fabric is close to the skin surface. , can be excellent in deodorant performance.

The woven fabric of the present invention uses spun yarns as wefts constituting the backing, but may contain other yarns as necessary. In that case, the blend ratio of the spun yarn in the weft constituting the backing is preferably 50% by mass or more, more preferably 65% by mass or more, further preferably 80% by mass or more, and 100% by mass, that is, the spun yarn It is particularly preferable to consist only of Other yarns are not particularly limited, and can be appropriately set according to the application. Any combination of these yarns may be used, and more specifically, they may be used together by pliing, arranging, arranging, interweaving, or the like.

The spun yarn in the present invention preferably has an English count of 20 to 80, more preferably 25 to 70. If the spun yarn has a count within the above range, the back weave will not be too dense and will be able to sufficiently follow the elongation of the bicomponent fibers of the wefts of the front weave. In addition, it is possible to maintain the physical properties (strength and elongation) and washing durability required for uniform fabrics.

The warp of the woven fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited. For example, natural fibers such as cotton, hemp, wool, and silk; regenerated fibers such as rayon; Synthetic fibers such as aramid, polyarylate, and polybenzoxazole. Moreover, the form may be any of spun yarn, filament yarn, composite yarn, and plied yarn in which these yarns are combined. Among them, from the viewpoint of strength and resistance to washing, it is preferable to use synthetic fibers, and polyester-based multifilaments are particularly preferable.

The warp yarns may be raw yarns not subjected to false twisting, or may be false twisted yarns. Also, the yarn may be twisted from a raw yarn or a false-twisted textured yarn.
The cross-sectional shape of the warp is not particularly limited, and may be circular, irregular, hollow, or the like. Further, titanium dioxide, silicon dioxide, pigments, etc. may be contained depending on the properties to be imparted. For example, it may be a so-called full dull polyester fiber in which 1.0% by mass or more of titanium oxide is totally dispersed, or a so-called semi-dull polyester fiber in which titanium oxide is totally dispersed at a rate of less than 1.0% by mass. good too.

Although the fineness of the warp is not particularly limited, it is preferably composed of filament yarns having a single fiber fineness of 0.8 to 5.0 dtex and a total fineness of 50 to 120 dtex. More preferably, it is 0 to 3.0 dtex and the total fineness is 60 to 100 dtex. By setting the single filament fineness and the total fineness within the above ranges, when used as a uniform garment, the texture is not too stiff, the fabric has a suitable springy feeling, and the shape stability is maintained.

It is also effective to apply various conductive yarns to the warp and weft of the woven fabric of the present invention for the purpose of imparting antistatic properties to the woven fabric. When the conductive yarn is used for the warp, it is preferably arranged at a ratio of 1 to 5 / 2.54 cm, more preferably 1 to 2 / 2.54 cm, and when used for the weft, preferably 1 It is preferable that the ratio is 5 lines/2.54 cm, more preferably 1-2 lines/2.54 cm. Moreover, as an index of antistatic property, it is preferable that the requirements for "antistatic work clothes" described in JIS T8118 are satisfied.

It should be noted that the conductive yarn is preferably one in which a conductive component is kneaded into the fiber, but specifically, a fiber-forming resin such as a polyester resin or a polyamide resin in which a conductive substance is kneaded. It may be a conductive fiber (single-component system) formed of (conductive resin) or a conductive fiber (multi-component system) formed of a conductive resin and a non-conductive resin. Among them, a form in which at least part of the conductive resin is exposed on the single fiber surface is preferable.
Examples of conductive substances include conductive carbon black such as furnace black, ketjen black, acetylene black, and channel black; simple metals such as silver, nickel, copper, iron, and tin; copper sulfide, zinc sulfide, and copper iodide. metal compounds such as

The woven fabric of the present invention is a woven fabric with a double weft design. In the present invention, by forming a woven fabric with a double weft structure using the composite fiber for the weft of the front structure and the spun yarn for the weft of the back structure, in addition to moderate stretchability suitable for uniform use, A woven fabric having shape stability and surface smoothness can be obtained.

When the weft double weft structure is used as in the present invention, the warp yarn density can be set higher than in the case of the single weft structure, and a woven fabric with a thick feeling can be easily formed. In addition, even if the texture points are dense, there are portions where the warp yarns are continuous and float long, so that the flexibility of the yarns in those portions is not lost, and the woven fabric can be made flexible. The woven fabric of the present invention preferably has the following weave structure in order to obtain a woven fabric having characteristic values (1) to (4) described later. First, as the front weave, a plain weave is preferable from the viewpoint of smoothing the surface of the fabric. On the other hand, the back weave is preferably a weave that causes less mutual binding of the yarns from the viewpoint that the spun yarns of the weft can easily follow the elongation of the bicomponent fibers of the weft of the front weave. Among them, the number of float threads in the structure is preferably 2 to 9 continuous floats from the viewpoint of improving the strength and washing durability of the fabric while having an appropriate stretchability as a whole fabric. Among them, 3 to 7 are more preferable.

A preferred embodiment of the double weft weave in the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings.
FIG. 1 shows an example of a weft double weave in which the front weave is a plain weave and the back weave has five back yarns. In the back weave, the float of the weft yarn is longer than in the plain weave, and the number of intersecting points is small, so the yarn density can be increased. Therefore, in the weft double weave fabric of FIG. 1, the conjugate fibers used for the weft yarns of the front weave are pulled by the yarns of the back weave to strengthen mutual restraint. As a result, the surface of the front weave becomes smoother, and the woven fabric as a whole has appropriate stretchability. In addition, since the back weave reduces the mutual constraint of the yarns, even when the woven fabric of the present invention is stretched in the weft and warp directions, the extensibility of the composite fibers of the front weave can be followed without hindrance.

The double weft fabric of the present invention simultaneously satisfies the conditions (1) to (4).
(1) Elongation in the weft direction measured by JIS L1096 elongation rate B method (load 14.7 N) is 13% or more (2) Elongation rate in the weft direction measured by JIS L1096 elongation rate B method (load 14.7 N) and the elongation in the warp direction is 15% or more. and weft direction dimensional change rate within 3%. Thus, a woven fabric having stretchability, shape stability, firmness, and surface smoothness suitable for uniform use can be obtained.

First, the condition (1) requires that the elongation in the weft direction measured by applying a load of 14.7 N according to JIS L1096 elongation B method is 13% or more, especially 14 to 35%. preferably 14.5 to 30%.
If the elongation percentage of the woven fabric of the present invention is less than 13%, when the woven fabric of the present invention is used as a uniform garment and the wearer performs a wearing motion, it is not possible to obtain an appropriate stretchability that follows the elongation of the skin, resulting in poor wearing comfort. become a thing. The upper limit is not particularly limited, but if it is about 35%, it will have a suitable springy feeling and shape stability when used as uniform clothing. In the present invention, as described above, it is possible to obtain a double weft fabric having an elongation rate within a specific range by forming a double weft fabric using specific yarns for the front weft and back weft. Become.
The elongation in the warp direction of the woven fabric of the present invention is preferably 2 to 30%, more preferably 3 to 15%.

The woven fabric of the present invention preferably has an elongation recovery rate of 70% or more in the weft direction measured according to the JIS L1096 elongation recovery rate B-1 method (one hour after unloading by the constant load method). If it is less than 70%, it is difficult for the fabric to recover when worn as uniform clothing, and the knees and elbows may sag and wrinkle. In the present invention, as described above, it is possible to obtain a double weft fabric having an elongation recovery rate within a specific range by forming a double weft fabric using specific yarns for the wefts of the front and back fabrics. becomes.

The condition of (2) requires that the sum of the elongation in the weft direction and the elongation in the warp direction measured by applying a load of 14.7 N according to JIS L1096 elongation B method is 15% or more. , preferably 17 to 50%, more preferably 18 to 40%.
When the sum of the stretch rate in the weft direction and the stretch rate in the warp direction is less than 15%, when the woven fabric of the present invention is used as a uniform garment and worn, a suitable stretchability that follows the stretch of the skin can be obtained. Therefore, the wearing comfort is inferior. Although the upper limit is not particularly limited, if it is about 50%, it will have a suitable springy feeling and shape stability when used as uniform clothing. In the present invention, as described above, it is possible to obtain a double weft fabric having an elongation rate within a specific range by forming a double weft fabric using specific yarns for the front weft and back weft. Become.

The condition of (3) is the dimensional change rate in the warp direction and the dimensional change rate in the weft direction when tumble drying is performed after one wash by JIS L1096 F-2 method (medium temperature washer method; 60 ° C. x 30 minutes). The dimensional change rate must also be +3% to -3%, and above all, the dimensional change rate is preferably +2.5 to -2.5%, and more preferably +1 to -2.0% or less. preferable. If the dimensional change in the warp and weft directions exceeds 3% when tumble drying is performed after one wash, the dimensional stability is inferior when the woven fabric of the present invention is used as uniform clothing and repeatedly worn and washed. Shrinkage causes deformation and wrinkles. In the present invention, as described above, by adopting a weft double weft using specific yarns for the wefts of the front weft and the back weft, the weft two wefts that satisfy a specific range of dimensional change rate and have shape stability. It becomes possible to obtain heavy fabrics.

The dimensional change rate of the woven fabric of the present invention is measured as follows using the double weft woven fabric after one washing and drying operation (after one wash).
First, according to JIS L1096 8.39, the double weft fabric before washing is marked, and then the above washing and drying operation is performed once (after one wash). Measure the length between the markings, and calculate by the following formula.
Dimensional change rate (%) = 100 - [(length between markings after washing/length between markings before washing) x 100]

Condition (4) requires that the mean deviation (SMD) of the fabric surface roughness measured according to the KES-F system in the surface texture in the unstretched state is 6.5 μm or less, and 5.0 μm It is preferably 4.0 μm or less, more preferably 4.0 μm or less. When the SMD of the front weave exceeds 6.5 μm, the surface of the woven fabric is not smooth and has unevenness and wrinkles, resulting in poor elasticity and high-quality appearance suitable for uniform clothing. In the present invention, the above composite fibers are used for the wefts of the face weave, or the face weave is a weft double weave with a plain weave, and the yarns constituting the face weave are appropriately close together. Thus, it is possible to have the average deviation of the woven fabric surface roughness within a specific range and to have excellent surface smoothness.
In addition, the SMD of the fabric surface roughness measured according to the KES-F system in the back fabric in the unstretched state of the fabric of the present invention is that the weft yarns of the back fabric are placed on the front side when the mutual restraint of the threads in the back fabric is made flexible. From the viewpoint of making it easy to follow the elongation of the bicomponent fibers of the weft of the weave, it is preferably larger than the SMD of the surface weave, specifically, the SMD is preferably more than 4.0 μm, more preferably more than 4.5 μm. It is preferably greater than 5.0 μm, more preferably greater than 5.0 μm. In order to make the SMD of the backing fabric in the unstretched state within the above range, for example, the backing fabric may be a twill weave (twill, slanted pattern) or a satin weave.

In the woven fabric of the present invention, the cover factor (CF) of the surface structure is preferably in the range of 1,500 to 4,000, more preferably 1,800 to 3,000. If the cover factor of the surface weave is within the above range, the weave of the woven fabric is neither too soft nor too dense, so that the woven fabric as a whole can have appropriate stretchability and stiffness. Here, the surface texture cover factor (CF) is defined by the following equation.
CF=D ^1/2 ×M+E ^1/2 ×N
D is the fineness of the warp (decitex), E is the fineness of the weft (decitex) constituting the surface weave, M is the density of the warp (number/2.54 cm), and N is the number of wefts constituting the surface. density (book/2.54 cm).

The cover factor (CF) of the backing fabric is preferably in the range of 1500-4000, more preferably 1800-3000. If the cover factor of the back weave is within the above range, the weave of the woven fabric is neither too loose nor too dense, so that the woven fabric as a whole can have appropriate stretchability and stiffness. Here, the cover factor (CF) of the back fabric is defined by the following formula.
CF=D ^1/2 ×M+X ^1/2 ×Y
D is the fineness of the warp (decitex), X is the fineness of the weft (decitex) constituting the backing, M is the density of the warp (number/2.54 cm), and Y is the density of the weft making up the backing. density (book/2.54 cm).

Further, in the present invention, the density of the back weave is preferably 25 to 100% of the density of the front weave, and not higher than the density of the front weave. That is, in the weft double weave, the weft density of the back weave is preferably 25 to 100% of the weft density of the front weave. If the density of the backing fabric is less than 25% of the density of the front fabric, the woven fabric lacks thickness, making it difficult to develop an appropriate feeling of elasticity.
It is preferable to change the yarn density appropriately so as to satisfy the above cover factor. Specifically, the weft yarn density of the front weave is preferably 50 to 150 threads/2.54 cm, and the weft yarn density of the back weave is preferably 12 to 150. Book/2.54 cm is preferred. Also, the warp density is preferably 30 to 200/2.54 cm.

Furthermore, the basis weight of the woven fabric of the present invention may be appropriately selected according to the application, but is preferably 100 to 250 g/m ² , more preferably 120 to 220 g/m ² .

The UV protection factor (UPF) of the woven fabric of the present invention is preferably 30 or higher, more preferably 40 or higher, and particularly preferably 50 or higher. In order to increase the UV protection index to a predetermined value or more, the thickness of the fabric must be increased as a weft double weft, the weave structure of the front and back weaves must be made denser, and full dull polyester fiber can be used for the weft and warp. It is possible by using

In the present invention, the ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) is determined according to JIS L 1925 (2019) "Ultraviolet shielding evaluation method for textile products", using a spectrophotometer, measuring the spectral transmittance of a sample with ultraviolet rays having a wavelength of 290 to 400 nm. Then, it is calculated using the relative energy value of the solar spectral irradiance and the value representing the degree of influence of the skin.

The woven fabric of the present invention preferably has an ultraviolet shielding rate of 90.0% or more, more preferably 94.0% or more, and even more preferably 96.0% or more. When the UV shielding rate is within the above range, it is an index of excellent UV protection. A method for calculating the ultraviolet shielding rate will be described later in Examples.

The weft double-layered woven fabric of the present invention has appropriate stretchability, shape stability, stiffness and surface smoothness, and can provide clothing suitable for use in uniforms. In addition, since the weft double woven fabric of the present invention has a smooth front weave surface and is less prone to snags, etc., when the woven fabric of the present invention is used as a garment, the front weave is far from the skin surface, and the back fabric It is preferable to use it in a state where it is arranged so that the side is closer to the skin surface.

EXAMPLES The present invention will be described in more detail below with reference to examples. Measurement and evaluation methods for various characteristic values are as follows.

(a) Elongation rate Using a 60 mm × 300 mm cut out of the obtained weft double weft fabric as a test piece, the method specified in B method described in 8.16.1 of JIS L1096 (2010) Elongation was measured according to. The elongation rate was obtained in each of the vertical and horizontal directions when elongated to a tensile load of 14.7 N under the conditions of a gripping distance of 200 mm and a pulling speed of 20 cm/min.
(b) Elongation recovery rate Using the obtained weft double weft fabric cut into 60 mm × 300 mm as a test piece, B-1 method (constant load The elongation recovery rate was measured in accordance with the method stipulated in Law). After fixing the test piece to the upper clamp and applying an initial load, fixing the lower clamp, then marking an interval of 200 mm (L0) and applying a load of 14.7 N, leaving for 1 hour, the length between the marks The height (L1) was measured. Next, the weight was removed, the initial load was applied after 30 seconds and 1 hour, the length between marks (L2) was measured again, and the elongation recovery rate was calculated by the following equation.
Elongation recovery rate (%) = [(L1-L2) / (L1-L0)] × 100
(c) Dimensional change rate After measuring the dimensions in the warp and weft directions using a 40 cm x 40 cm test piece cut from the obtained weft double weft fabric, JIS L1096 F-2 method (medium temperature washer Method: 60°C x 30 minutes), wash once, dehydrate, hang so that the warp direction is vertical and the weft direction is horizontal, and after drying for a day and night, measure the dimensions in the warp and weft directions again. , the dimensional change rate was calculated by the following formula.
Dimensional change rate (%) = [(Dimensions before washing - Dimensions after washing) / Dimensions before washing] x 100
(d) Mean Deviation of Fabric Surface Roughness (SMD)
SMD was measured using an automated surface tester (“KESFB4-AUTO-A” manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd.). A 20 cm x 20 cm piece of the obtained weft double weave fabric was used as a test piece, and a tension of 400 g was applied to the test piece and placed in the above tester. Next, a vertical load of 50 g including the metal friction element is applied, the friction element is brought into contact with a force of 10 g by the contact pressure of the spring, and the test piece is moved back and forth 30 mm to measure the surface roughness of the test piece. variation was measured. Measurement was performed three times each in two directions, WARP and WEFT, and the average value was taken as SMD. SMD indicates the fluctuation of surface roughness, and it can be determined that the larger the value, the more unevenness is caused by the protrusions. The SMD was measured by moving the friction element in the longitudinal direction of the weft double weave fabric.
(e) Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF)
Using the obtained weft double weave fabric, it was calculated as described above.
(f) Ultraviolet shielding rate Using the obtained weft double weave fabric, it was measured according to JIS L 1925 (2019) "Ultraviolet shielding evaluation method for textile products". Using a spectrophotometer (manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation, "UV-3100PC"), measure the transmittance for ultraviolet rays in the measurement wavelength range of 290 to 400 nm, and use the spectrophotometer to measure the transmittance for ultraviolet rays with a wavelength of 290 to 400 nm. was measured, and the UV shielding rate was determined by the following formula.
UV shielding rate (%) = 100 - Average transmittance to UV (%)
(g) Surface smoothness (texturing)
Using the obtained weft double weave fabric, the front weave was subjected to sensory evaluation according to the following criteria.
○: Good surface smoothness (no embossing)
×: Poor surface smoothness (texturing)
(h) Firmness Using the obtained weft double-layered fabric, sensory evaluation was performed according to the following criteria.
○: Excellent in moderate elasticity ×: Inferior in elasticity

(Example 1)
(Thread use)
Weft yarn of the front weave: Two polyethylene terephthalate/polybutylene terephthalate side-by-side composite fibers (56 dtex/48 f, strength 3.58 cN/dtex, elongation 26.2%, hot water dimensional change rate 6.3%) were aligned. Weft yarn for fabric backing: Two-layer spun yarn with cotton fiber core and polyester fiber sheath (Pulper manufactured by Unitika Trading Co., No. 30)
Warp: yarn X using yarn X and yarn Y below; polyester multifilament yarn containing 2.0% by mass of titanium oxide made of polyethylene terephthalate (84 dtex/72 f)
Yarn Y: Composite yarn made of non-conductive yarn and conductive yarn shown below (twisted yarn with a twist number (Z twist) of 400 T / m)
Non-conductive yarn; polyester multifilament made of polyethylene terephthalate (56dtex/24f)
Conductive yarn: KB Seiren "Beltron" (22dtex/3f, the conductive polymer of the sheath accounts for 100% of the outer circumference)
(knitted structure)
An air jet loom (AJL) loom was used to weave with the structure shown in FIG. At that time, the yarn X and the yarn Y were used in a warp ratio of 66:1. The obtained gray fabric is scoured and dyed by a usual method to obtain a double weft fabric with a warp density of 150/2.54 cm, a weft density of 96/2.54 cm for the front fabric, and a weft density of 32/2.54 cm for the back fabric. A woven fabric was obtained.

(Example 2)
A gray fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a two-layer spun yarn (Pulper manufactured by Unitika Trading Co., Ltd., No. 20) having a core of cotton fiber and a sheath of polyester fiber was used as the weft of the backing fabric. After that, it was scouring and dyed in the same manner as in Example 1, and the weft double weft fabric with a warp density of 150 / 2.54 cm, a front weft density of 96 / 2.54 cm, and a back weft density of 32 / 2.54 cm. got

(Example 3)
As the weft yarn for the back fabric, a two-layered spun yarn (Pulper manufactured by Unitika Trading Co., Ltd., No. 30) consisting of cotton fiber in the core and polyester fiber in the sheath, the cotton fiber in the core is graft-polymerized with a polymerizable vinyl monomer. A gray fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that a deodorizing two-layer structure spun yarn was used. After that, it was scouring and dyed in the same manner as in Example 1, and the weft double weft fabric with a warp density of 150 / 2.54 cm, a front weft density of 96 / 2.54 cm, and a back weft density of 32 / 2.54 cm. got

(Comparative example 1)
Instead of the side-by-side composite fiber as the weft of the front weave, the polyester multifilament false twist textured yarn (84 dtex / 36 f, strength 3.72 cN / dtex, elongation 27) made of polyethylene terephthalate and containing 0.5% by mass of titanium oxide Scouring and dyeing were carried out in the same manner as in Example 1, except for using 0.9% and a hot water dimensional change rate of 1.3%. A weft double weft fabric with a back weft density of 32 wefts/2.54 cm was obtained.

(Comparative example 2)
(Thread use)
Weft L: side-by-side composite fiber of polyethylene terephthalate/polybutylene terephthalate (167 dtex/64 f, strength 3.06 cN/dtex, elongation 25.6%, hot water dimensional change rate 6.2%)
Weft M: Spun yarn made of 100% cotton fiber (34 count)
Warp: Using an air jet loom (AJL) loom using the same yarn X and yarn Y as in Example 1, yarn is supplied so that one weft L and one weft M are alternately arranged in the weft structure. As a result, a greige fabric with a twill structure was obtained. At that time, the warp yarns X and Y were used at a ratio of 56:1. The resulting green fabric was scoured and dyed by a conventional method to obtain a twill fabric having a warp density of 144/2.54 cm and a weft density of 71/2.54 cm.

Tables 1 and 2 show the structures and characteristic values of the weft double weave fabrics and twill fabrics obtained in Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2.

As is clear from Table 1, Examples 1 to 3 are weft double weave fabrics using composite fibers for the wefts of the front weave and double-layered spun yarns for the wefts of the back weave. Since the SMD satisfies the specified range, the obtained woven fabric was also excellent in stretchability, shape stability, surface smoothness, and firmness.
In Comparative Example 1, since the side-by-side or eccentric core-sheath type wefts, which are not composite fibers, were used as the wefts constituting the front weave, the obtained weft double weave fabric was inferior in stretchability and stiffness. rice field. Moreover, the SMD of the surface structure was large, and the surface smoothness was poor.
In Comparative Example 2, since the weft structure was a twill weave structure in which side-by-side type composite fibers and spun yarns were woven together, the obtained fabric was thin and inferior in stiffness and stiffness, and was also inferior in UPF and UV shielding rate. In addition, since side-by-side composite fibers made of polyester resin and spun yarns made of cotton fibers appear on the surface of the fabric, the difference in dyeing is noticeable in the fabric after dyeing, and the appearance when used for clothing is also good. was inferior.

Claims (7)

A woven fabric with a weft double weave, in which the wefts constituting the front weave are composite fibers in which polyester polymers of different types are laminated in a side-by-side or eccentric core-sheath type along the fiber length direction, and the back weave is A double weft fabric characterized by comprising weft yarns that are spun yarns and simultaneously satisfying the following conditions (1) to (4).
(1) Elongation in the weft direction measured by JIS L1096 elongation rate B method (load 14.7 N) is 13% or more (2) Elongation rate in the weft direction measured by JIS L1096 elongation rate B method (load 14.7 N) and the elongation in the warp direction is 15% or more. And the dimensional change rate in the weft direction is +3% to -3%.
(4) The average deviation (SMD) of the fabric surface roughness measured by the KES-F system in the surface texture in the unstretched state is 6.5 μm or less. A composite fiber in which polyester-based polymers having different types of wefts constituting a surface texture are laminated side-by-side along the fiber length direction, and the single filament fineness of the composite fiber is 1.0 to 5.0 dtex. The weft double woven fabric according to claim 1. 3. The weft double-layered fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein at least one of the different polyester-based polymers is a polyester mainly composed of polybutylene terephthalate. The weft double-layered fabric according to claim 1 or 2, having an ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) of 30 or more. 3. The weft double fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein at least one of the warp yarns or the weft yarns contains a conductive yarn. The weft double-layered fabric according to claim 1 or 2, which is used for uniforms. A garment comprising the weft double-layered fabric according to claim 1 or 2.

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