JPS60181381A - Production of yuzen pleated fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing Yuzen shimehita textiles that has made it possible to express Yuzen dyeing on shimehita textiles, which was impossible until now. Synthetic fibers that cannot be dyed with dyes that have the same strength as cotton threads, and are woven as yarn feed during weaving. Thread weighting is applied to resist-dye the thin pattern outlines for Yuzen dyeing on fabrics that have not yet been gathered. The inside of this thread is subjected to resist dyeing process and ground dyeing, the resist dyeing paste is removed and the color is added to the outline of the thread, and after the dyeing process and thread removal process, the thread is tightened (double pleat tightening). The yuzen-dyed part of this pleated cloth is subjected to resist dyeing treatment and shihita dyeing is carried out, and after steaming and washing, the shihita thread is removed and the yuzen dyeing is expressed on the shihitame fabric. .

An example of the implementation of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the accompanying drawings.O Cotton yarn A polyester fiber yarn (commonly known as Tetoron yarn), which is made by twisting two yarns thinner than cotton yarn and finished to a thickness of approximately No. 30, is used as a cotton yarn ( 1) The jacquard pattern warp or weft (2) Fabric (a) before being woven with a jacquard pattern.

This threaded pattern outline is finished with a thin white outline, but the same effect can be achieved by using a glue-like rubber containing a dye that is dyed in a different color from the ground color.

The inside of this thread is treated with resist dyeing paste and the whole is brush dyed.

Ground dyeing is done using spray dyeing etc.

The resist dyeing paste is removed by washing with water, and a coloring process called Yuzen process is applied to the outline of the threads.

The color illustration of the Yuzen dyed part (2) within the pattern outline is omitted.

The paste-like rubber of the yarn weight has hardened and is not removed by washing the resist dyeing paste with water, and remains stuck to the ground.

This colored fabric (a) is steamed to give it color development, washed with water, and then treated with a solvent to remove the hardened rubber glue from the thread weight.

Next, the cotton thread (11) is used to sew the cloth (a8) to create two pleats.

Resist dyeing treatment is performed to protect the surface of this cloth (the two exposed Yuzen dyed areas (2) with resist dyeing paste).

After that, iron dyeing (a method of applying printing paste with a spatula).

12-way dyeing methods such as spray dyeing, brush dyeing, and roll dyeing are performed.

At this time, if the back side of the pleated fabric is dyed in the same way as the front side, it is possible to express a more varied background color (Second).

At the same time, the dye is dyed to develop color by steaming, fixed at the same time, washed with water (2nd), and after removing the resist dyeing paste (1
) If removed, Yuzen dyeing will be expressed on the tightened ground.

In the figure, code (3) is the ground part, (4) is the inner part of the thread, (5
) is the outline part, (6) is the shimehita area, and (7) is the Yuzen shimehita fabric.

Conventional Hita textiles belong to the category of shibori textiles.
Shibori textiles are difficult to process, so they are considered to be very expensive luxury items.

Therefore, shibita textiles, which belong to the category of shibori textiles, are similarly high-class products, and the appearance is unique as the shibori changes, creating a unique shibito ventilation that gives a softer feel than shibori-shafted textiles. It had a high commercial value.

On the other hand, Yuzen is an expensive luxury dyed product.One of the characteristics of Yuzen is that there is a pattern outline at the border between the ground and the Yuzen dyed pattern.
This pattern outline clearly expresses the gorgeous multicolored Yuzen dyeing pattern, which is colored by hand.

It has been the applicant's long-held desire to create a woven fabric with such a Yuzen dyeing pattern, but this was never achieved.

The reason is that Shihita textiles incorporate cotton threads during weaving.
This cotton thread has a pleating relationship and the cotton thread is easy to knit and tie.

This gathering must be done with considerable force, and for this reason, the cotton thread used is quite thick to prevent it from breaking.

Because the thick cotton threads woven into this cloth are exposed on the surface of the cloth, it becomes a hindrance to various operations such as thread setting and resist dyeing. During each work, the glue and dye must penetrate into the ground part of the fabric in the same way as the areas without cotton thread, but because the cotton thread is thick, it does not penetrate into the ground area under the cotton thread. .

Also, since it is a cotton thread, the cotton thread absorbs the dye and glue, so the dye is not dyed, or even if it is dyed, it is lighter than the patterned part without the cotton thread, resulting in shading within the pattern. The dyeing may become uneven or the resisting area may not be formed by the glue.

Due to such defects in yarn weight, single color mismatch, etc., it has been impossible to express a Yuzen dyeing pattern on a tightly pleated fabric.

In this regard, the present invention employs synthetic fibers that are thinner than cotton threads and have the same strength as cotton threads, and which cannot be dyed with the dyes used to dye silk. Also, the cotton thread is very thin (2) Since it is a cotton thread made of fine synthetic fibers, even if the cotton thread is exposed on the surface of the fabric, the thread weight is good enough that it does not interfere with the work, and the thread weight is sure to allow the work to be carried out. Become.

In addition, resist dyeing treatment within the threads can also be carried out easily and reliably.

Next, the ground dyeing process is carried out, and the resist dyeing paste is removed and a two-color insertion process is performed within the thread outline (two-color insertion process), but even in this color insertion process, the synthetic fibers are thinner than cotton yarn and cannot be dyed with the dyes used to dye silk. Because it opens with cotton thread, the cotton thread will not be damaged even when applying multiple colors, the dye will spread well to the bottom of the cotton thread, and the feeding thread itself will absorb the dye as in the case of cotton thread. Since there is no staining, it is possible to reliably dye without causing uneven dyeing.

After the fabric part on the underside of this cotton thread is colored correctly, dyeing and thread removal processes are performed to clearly create a thin pattern outline that distinguishes the ground and pattern, which is unique to Yuzen, at the border between ground dyeing and inspection dyeing. The part of the fabric under the resulting overglaze thread will also be colored without uneven dyeing, just like the part of the fabric without cotton thread.

Once the Yuzen dyeing has been completed in this way, pleats are carried out using cotton threads, and although the cotton threads are thinner than the cotton threads, they are as strong as the cotton threads, so the cotton threads do not break during the pleating process. It can be gathered very smoothly. Then, the Yuzen dyed part of the gathered pleated fabric is subjected to resist dyeing treatment and tightened, and after steaming and washing, the tightening yarn is removed, and the ground-dyed tightened fabric is dyed. A rare Yuzen sifter fabric with extremely high commercial value that has never been seen before will be provided, with a brilliant multicolored Yuzen pattern that is clearly expressed and distinguished from the ground color by a thin pattern outline on the cloth. .

[Brief explanation of drawings]

Fig. 1 is a front view of a part of the fabric in a post-dated state, Fig. 2 is a front view of a part of the tightened fabric, and Fig. 3 is a front view of a part of the Yuzen sieve pleat fabric. (a)...cloth, (1)...cotton thread, (2)...Yuzen dyed part. February 27, 1980 Applicant Ryo Sekiguchi - Fuki//ψ Next 37?

Claims (1)

[Claims] Cotton yarn Thinner than cotton yarn and having the same strength as cotton yarn. A synthetic fiber that cannot be dyed with single-sheath dyes. It is used as a yarn feed during weaving. It is used as a thin pattern outline for Yuzen dyeing on fabrics before being gathered. The threads to be resist-dyed are determined, the inside of the threads are resist-dyed and ground dyed, the resist dyeing paste is removed, color is applied within the outline of the threads, and the dyeing process and thread removal process are carried out. The method of tightening with tightening threads, applying resist dyeing treatment to the Yuzen-dyed part of the tightened fabric, applying tightening dyeing, and removing the tightening threads after steaming and washing with water to express Yuzen dyeing on the tightened fabric. A method for producing Yuzen shimehita textiles.