JPS59228041A - Polyester filament fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention The present invention 8A relates to a polyester filament fabric having an elegant silk-like luster, and more specifically, to a polyester filament fabric having an elegant silk-like luster while eliminating the glittering luster peculiar to synthetic fibers. Regarding textiles. Since polyester has physical properties similar to those of silk, progress has been made in the development of silky-like fabrics using polyester filament yarn. However, polyester filament woven fabrics have little change and are too smooth, so they are not satisfactory in terms of texture and feel as braided fabrics, making them difficult to use for clothing. It was used as a bulky yarn such as a false-twisted yarn to be woven. However, recently,
Thanks to the development of different shrinkage blend yarn technology and weight loss processing technology using alkaline solutions, silkier and thinner fabrics have been developed for clothing, and their texture has reached an advanced level. However, the elegant luster of silk could not be obtained. As a means of expressing the luster of silk, we use a method with a low content of matting agent.
Because so-called bright yarn was used, the glittering luster and tactile feel of the so-called plastitsuku could not be improved. So-called semi-dull yarn or full-dull yarn containing a large amount of matting agent is used as a means to eliminate the glare, but although the glare disappears,
The luster becomes dull and different from the luster of silk. In addition, a method has been taken to eliminate glare by making the fiber cross section multi-lobed with five or more lobes, but in addition to being insufficiently effective,
The spinning operation is difficult, and problems such as streaks are likely to occur due to differences in the degree of cross-sectional irregularity.

In view of the above-mentioned drawbacks, the present inventors have studied fC polyester filament fabrics that have silk-like elegant luster and eliminate plastic-like sliminess, and as a result, have arrived at the present invention.

That is, in the optical properties of the fabric of the present invention evaluated by the polarization method, the surface reflection component M is 5% higher than the total reflection component (6).
096 or less, and the sum of the transmitted refraction reflection component (1) and the internal reflection component (1) is 40
A polyester filament yarn having a diameter of 1 or more is used in a substantially untwisted state for the warp and/or weft, and
This polyester filament fabric is characterized by glare occupying at least 55% of the entire fabric surface.

4Il[l Here, the optical characteristics evaluated by the polarization method will be explained. Figures 1 and 2 show model diagrams when fibers are irradiated with light. The light incident on the surface of the fiber 100 is separated into a surface reflection component M1, a transmitted refraction reflection component σ) 2, and an internal reflection component (1) 3, and due to the transmission refraction component and absorption of a specific wavelength inside the internal fiber, Expresses the unique luster of fibers. These optical characteristics can be separated by utilizing polarization characteristics and limiting the projection angle. Figure @3 shows an overview of the measuring device. The details are described in "Glossy" written by Hiroshi Hasunuma and published by Coronasha on September 10, 1960, but Ingers
This is a modification of Oll's gloss meter using a polarizer for the φ receiver. The center axis of the emitter 8, the center axis of the receiver 9, and the center of the rotary table 4 are in the same plane (projection/light receiving surface), and the top surface of the rotary table 4 is located perpendicular to the plane.
During measurement, all elements are placed in a black box (not shown), blocking light from the outside. Further, the light receiving voltage of the light receiver is connected to an external recorder via an amplifier (not shown), and the light receiving intensity is displayed. Turntable 4 can be rotated from outside the black box, and
Rotate 360° for measurement. Emitter 8 and receiver 9
A polarizer 5.6 is attached to the tip of the light beam, and each polarization plane can be arbitrarily set to be parallel to or perpendicular to the light emitting/receiving surface. Further, the upper surface of the turntable 4 is designed so that the light-receiving surface of the sample 7 remains constant regardless of the thickness of the sample 7. It is designed to coincide with the intersection of the center axes of the photoreceiver.

In sample 7, the sample yarn to be measured is wound around matte black cardboard to a thickness of approximately 3 m and m thickness while maintaining a parallel state.

Under the above conditions, the relationship between the polarization planes of the emitter and receiver with respect to the emitter and receiver surfaces, and the relationship with the yarn axis to be measured, is shown in Table 1.
street measurements are taken.

Table 1 These are the projection and reception angles θ1. θ, are equal and Brewst
er conditions (tanθ=nn: refractive index of sample thread to be measured)
When the above conditions are satisfied, reflected light can be separated into a surface reflection component (b), a transmitted refraction reflection component α), an internal reflection component (1), and a diffuse reflection component ■i) according to its polarization characteristics. Yes, from the refractive index (n)K of each sample, the projection/reception angle θ8. θ
, should be changed as appropriate, but in the case of this measurement, θ, −
〇, fixed at =57.5° (for n = 1.57).

From these measurement results, each component can be determined by the following equation based on the output voltage (received light intensity) of the nine light receiving elements shown in Table 1.

Surface reflection component M = ((A-B)+(D-E))/2
Transmission refraction reflection component α) - ((B-C) + (E-F)
J /2 Internal reflection component (1) = (FC) /2 Diffuse reflection light component ■i) = C Total reflection component (6) - M + T + 1 + DI The surface reflection component Z is white light of the same quality as the incident light, and When the component increases, it becomes glaring and glossy like the reflected light on the glass surface, and when the transmitted refraction reflection component (1) and internal reflection component (1) increase, it becomes jewel-like luster, so the amount of M and (T + i) The quality of the gloss can be determined based on the relationship. The surface reflection component mainly depends on the condition of the fiber surface and the refractive index of the fiber, and the transmission refraction reflection component (1) and the internal reflection component (1) depend on the refractive index of the fiber and the permeability inside the fiber (fiber and (depending on the refractive index difference of particles existing inside the fiber) and the shape of the fiber surface. Surface reflection component (
If the total reflection component (1) exceeds 50%, the object of the present invention cannot be achieved due to the glare, and the sum of the transmitted refraction and reflection component (1) and the internal reflection component (i) is less than 40% compared to the total reflection component (2). When this happens, the shine becomes dull and the elegance of the shine disappears.

For the measurement sample, take out the threads from the borrowed fabric and carefully wrap them on matte guishoku paper while keeping the threads parallel to each other under enough tension to eliminate the weave crimp. In fact, when the yarn is twisted, the fiber axis does not match the yarn axis, and this optical property is not only impossible to measure using the above measurement method, but also loses its luster by visual inspection and becomes dull. Put it away.

From this, the fabric of the present invention uses substantially non-twisted yarns for the warp and/or weft, and the glare is reduced by 55% of the entire fabric surface.
% or more. Here, "substantially no twist" refers to the number of twists equal to or less than HSOO times per meter of yarn. If the ratio of non-twisted yarn with excellent gloss to the total fabric surface is less than 55 inches, the effect will be significant.
Since a sufficient gloss effect cannot be obtained, it is preferable that the area occupies 70 inches or more.

In addition, the yarn constituting the polyester filament fabric of the present invention has a large number of vertically long micropores in the fiber axis direction on the fiber surface by treating the polyester fiber yarn containing a micropore-forming agent with an alkaline solution. A polyester filament yarn that does not contain or contains less than 0.05% of a matting agent, and the micropores have a maximum value of 0,2-(1 , the average value of the length/maximum weight ratio is 3 or less within the range of 7 μm, and the number of reeds is 10 to 30 on the fiber surface of 100 μm, and 1
The depth is o, 1 μm or less for the entire 60 inches or more,
The strength is preferably 2.1/d or more. The fiber surface 117 and length herein are determined from 100 or more measured values of a scanning electron micrograph at a magnification of 5000 times or more. In addition, the depth was determined by cutting the fibers embedded in acrylic resin to a thickness of 4 μm, eluting the acrylic resin with isoamyl acetate, taking an electron micrograph at a magnification of 10,000 times or more, and drawing tangent lines between adjacent 6. , is determined by measuring the distance between the tangent and the bottom of the four parts.

In addition, a substantial matting agent is a material with a high refractive index (such as titanium oxide).
In particular, it refers to pigments (2 or more).

In addition, the strength is the value obtained by dividing the strength obtained by using Tensilon manufactured by Toyo Baldwin Co., Ltd. at a test length of 200 yrtm and a T-pulling speed of 200 mm/min by the denier of the thread. In addition, the maximum value of the frequency distribution among the maximum micropores is 0.2 μm-0
, 7 μm. The maximum value is 0.
If it is less than 2 μm, the texture will be slimy and the desired silk-like luster will not be obtained, resulting in a glittery luster. In addition, when the maximum value exceeds 0.7 μm, the effect on stone and touch is halved, and especially when dyed in a light color, it appears whitish and has a so-called pastel-like luster.

Also, if the depth of the micropores exceeds 40% of the total, the gloss will become dull and the silk-like shine will disappear, so the total depth of 60 or more should be 0.1 μm or less. is necessary.

In addition, if the maximum depth is 0.4 μm or less, the strength of the yarn decreases, and the practical performance of the fabric decreases. In addition, it is necessary that the number of micropores be 10 to 30 per 100 μR on the fiber surface; if the number is less than 10, the tactile effect will be lost, a slimy feeling will appear, and the gloss will have a metallic glare. I don't like the shine. On the other hand, if the number exceeds 30, the luster becomes dull, changing from silk-like luster to cotton-like luster, and the purpose cannot be achieved. Furthermore, if the strength of the fibers is less than 2 g/d, the strength of the fabric will decrease, making it unsuitable for practical use. Especially for thin fabrics intended for silky fabrics, special, 0
．． If it is contained in an amount of 0.05% or more, the light transmittance in the fiber is reduced and a high-class and elegant gloss cannot be obtained.

Further, it is preferable to impart fiber length differences to the substantially untwisted yarn used in the fabric of the present invention by a differential shrinkage blending yarn method or the like in order to obtain a silkier texture. However, bulky yarns with cling obtained by false twisting or the like are not preferred because they significantly impair optical properties. The difference in fiber length is determined by marking a certain length on a woven fabric, taking out the yarn, separating each filament yarn individually, and determining the filament denier D 0.1.
The fiber length is measured under a load of g, and is calculated from the following formula from the maximum fiber length (&) and the minimum fiber length (lice).

Fiber length difference (chi) = ((tl-4)/1l)X100
This fiber length difference needs to be in the range of 0.5 to 10%, and if it is less than 0.5%, the bulk density of the fabric will be low and the fabric will become paper-like. Furthermore, if the fiber length difference exceeds 10%, the fabric will have a fluttering texture, making it unsuitable for use as a silky fabric.

Preferably, it is 1.0 to 5 inches. Further, the total denier of the threads constituting the fabric of the present invention is preferably in the range of 30 to 100 deniers in consideration of the intended use of the fabric.

However, trilobal cross-section yarn is preferred from the viewpoint of texture and feel.

In the present invention, the polyester type refers to a polyester containing terephthalic acid or its ester-forming derivative as the carboxylic acid component and a glycol selected from ethylene glycol and 1,4-butanediol or its ester-forming derivative as the glycol component. do. A part of this dicarboxylic acid component may be substituted with, for example, a monoalkali metal salt of 5-sulfoiphthalic acid, isophthalic acid, diphenyldicarboxylic acid, adipic acid, sebacic acid, p-oxybenzoic acid, etc. In addition, well-known coloring inhibitors, catalysts, ether bond by-product inhibitors, antioxidants, flame retardants, and the like can be appropriately used. The present invention will be explained in detail below using Examples, but the present invention is not limited to these Examples.

Examples-1, 2 and Comparative Examples-1, 3
53 parts of Li:7-ol, 0.33 parts of antimony trioxide, and 1.0 parts of triethylamine were charged into a transesterification tank, and then ethylene glycol kaolinite (Eng.
El Ha, RD ASP-072, 10 phase particles removed by centrifugation, refractive index 1.56, average particle size 0.
3trm, 6wt% particles of 1 μm or more, 1.5wt% TiOz contained in kaolin as impurities) Dispersion solution 19
8 parts of the mixture was added, and while the temperature was raised from 150°C to 210°C over 130 minutes, the transesterification reaction was carried out while distilling by-product methanol. The obtained product was transferred to a polycondensation reactor at 210°C, and the system was gradually heated to 0.1°C while increasing the internal temperature from 210°C to 275°C over 80 minutes. The pressure was reduced to mmHg, and then a polycondensation reaction was carried out at 275° C., 0, ] mHg for about 40 minutes to obtain a polyester having a predetermined composition. The polyester was spun using an extrusion type spinning machine using a spinneret having 36 Y-shaped slit holes at a spinning temperature of 290°C and a winding speed of 1300-7'- in accordance with a conventional method. The obtained undrawn yarn was drawn by a conventional method to form a 50 denier/3
A 6-filament trilobal cross-section drawn filament was obtained. The thus obtained polyester filament yarn was used as the warp and weft to weave a plain weave, and after normal scouring, it was pre-cented at 180°C and then heated at 90°C with a 5.50 t/l NaOH aqueous solution.
After the alkali weight loss treatment was carried out at a temperature of 160°C for a treatment time such that the weight loss rate shown in Table 2 was obtained, the fabric was finally set at 160°C to obtain a finished fabric.

After carbon and gold were vapor-deposited on the fabric, a photograph of the front and side surfaces was taken at 500 parts magnification using a scanning electron microscope, and the maximum size and number of micropores were measured.

In addition, after taking out the yarn from the fabric and embedding it in acrylic resin,
After cutting into several pieces with a thickness of 4 μm, the acrylic resin was eluted with isoamyl acetate, and io was
, get an ooo times the size of the photo, and then send the photo to the projector.
The depth of the micropores was measured under 10x magnification. Further, the yarn strength of the yarn extracted from the fabric was measured using a Tensilon manufactured by Toyo Baldwin. At the same time, pull out the threads from the fabric,
The optical properties were measured by carefully winding the thread in parallel on a 4 cm square black paper with a thickness of about 1 m so that the width was about 20 mm and the thickness on one side was about 3 mm. In addition, the same fabric was evaluated in terms of touch and elasticity using a multisensory method by an experienced judge named 1G. In addition, the fabric before the final set was manufactured by Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation's DlanLx G.
The fabric was dyed using 2% OWF of 3G-E at 130°C for 45 minutes, dried, and finally set at 160°C, and the color tone was determined. The above measurement results and judgment results are shown in Table 2.

Example-3 After polymerizing shibori ester resin by the same method as Example-1,
When spinning, the same amount of undrawn yarn is divided into two bobbins and wound up] ~, two of the same undrawn yarns are simultaneously fed and stretched at a hot roller temperature of 85°C and a hot plate temperature of 150°C, One of them should not come in contact with the hot plate.
Separate the thread path with a guide bin. Similar threads were wound up on winding row 2 and wound into a single thread. The filament yarn thus obtained had a shrinkage rate of 23% and 6%, and was a mixed fiber yarn with different shrinkage. This differentially shrinkable mixed fiber yarn was made into a woven fabric in the same manner as in Example 1, and after an alkali weight reduction treatment, the size of micropores, optical properties, and tactile sensation were measured and judged in the same manner as in Example 1. The results are shown in Table 2.

Comparative Example-2 The amount of ethylene glycol kaolinite dispersion added to the reaction vessel was 297 parts, and the amount of ethylene glycol added was 5 parts.
A polyester obtained by polymerization in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the amount was changed to 40 parts was subjected to spinning, stretching, and spinning in the same manner as in Example 1.
The fabric was woven, processed, and subjected to alkali weight loss treatment, and the size of micropores, optical properties, and tactile sensation were measured and judged in the same manner as in Example 1. The results are shown in Table 2.

Comparative Example-4 The kaolinite dispersion of ethylene glycol charged into the reaction vessel was changed to 60 parts of a 10 wt% dispersion of titanium oxide TA-300 manufactured by Fuji Titanium in ethylene glycol, and the amount of ethylene glycol charged was 670 parts. The same method as in Example-1 was followed in all other respects. The results are shown in the t42 table.

Comparative Example 5 The same method as Comparative Example 4 was followed except that 248 parts of an ethylene glycol dispersion of titanium oxide was added and the amount of ethylene glycol was changed to 480 parts. The results are shown in Table 2.

Comparative Example-6 The amount of ethylene glycol kaolinite dispersion added to the reaction vessel was 99 parts, and the amount of ethylene glycol was 630 parts.
The same method as in Example-1 was followed in all respects except for the section.

The results are shown in Table 2.

Comparative Example-7 The amount of ethylene glycol kaolinite dispersion added to the reaction vessel was 396 parts, and the amount of ethylene glycol added was 35 parts.
The same method as in Example 1 was followed in all cases except that the number of copies was 0. The results are shown in Table 2.

As is clear from Table 2, by satisfying the shape of the micropores on the fiber surface and the amount of matting agent in the fibers, it is possible to obtain fabrics that are glossy, silk-like, and highly practical.

In addition, depending on the amount of micropore-forming agent and the level of reduction processing, the pores on the surface of 7 companies'f&fiber cloths will not be too large, and the desired gloss retention and hue will not be achieved if the number is too large or too small. I can't do it.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 is a model diagram of reflected light seen from the cross-sectional direction of the fiber, FIG. 2 is a model diagram of reflected light seen from the side direction of the fiber, and FIG. 3 is a diagram showing an outline of an optical property measuring device. 1. Surface reflection component 2. Transmission refraction reflection component 3, internal reflection component 41 rotary table 5.6. Polarizer 7
．． Measurement sample 8, floodlight 9. Photoreceiver 10 Fiber No. 10 2゜U Figure 3 ■ Procedures Amendment 1, Description of the case 1982 Patent Application No. 99929a Name of the invention Polyester filament weaving & amendment person case Relationship between patent applicant 2-2-8 Dojimahama, Kita-ku, Osaka (316) Toyobo Co., Ltd. (2) "Dispersion solution" and "19
Insert "(a dispersion liquid containing 1809 parts of kaolinite per 11 parts of ethylene glycol)" between "8 parts".

Claims (4)

[Claims] (1) The surface reflection component M is 50% compared to the total reflection component (6).
polyester filament yarn that is less than or equal to A polyester filament fabric, which is used for the warp and/or weft, and is characterized in that the dazzling light occupies at least 55% of the entire fabric surface. (2) By treating polyester fiber yarn containing a micropore-forming agent with an alkaline solution, the fiber surface has many micropores extending in the fiber axis direction and does not contain a substantial matting agent. , or a polyester filament yarn containing 0.05% or less, the micropores are (a) with a maximum value of the frequency distribution within the range of 0.2 to 0.7 μm, ( b) The average value of the ratio of length/i & width is 3 or less, and (c) the number is 100/177/1 of the m fiber surface.
There are 0 to 30 of them, and (-J) their depth is 0.1 μm or less for 60 or more of them, and (-J) their strength is u2.
The polyester filament fabric according to claim 1, wherein the polyester filament fabric is composed of a polyester filament yarn having a tear of 1/d or more. (3) Total denier of polyester filament yarn is 3
The polyester filament fabric according to claims 1 and 2, which has a denier of 0 to loo and has a trilobal cross-sectional shape of the fibers constituting the dazzling light. (4) Claims 1, 2 and 3, wherein the polyester filament yarns have a fiber length difference of 0.5 to 10% in one system in the fabric. polyester filament fabric.