JPS59179868A - Creping of fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a method for texturing a fabric,
In detail, when creating a texture on a fabric, the impact force of a high-pressure water stream jetted from micropores is used to make it possible to create a continuous texture on a highly twisted knitted fabric such as Niyori, polyester, etc.
The aim is to efficiently obtain high quality and uniform grains.

Conventionally, grained fabrics, typically represented by highly twisted fabrics, are made by twisting fiber bundles in the S direction or Z direction, and then steaming and setting the twists to make it easier to weave.

Used for warp and weft threads for weaving. This is immediately placed in a graining device such as a rotary washer or a continuous relaxer, and a mechanical impact kneading action is applied in hot water to untwist the fiber bundle and cause graining to occur. This is properly fixed in shape and dyed to obtain a product with grains. How sufficiently uniform and efficient the grain development is to be carried out largely determines the quality of the grain and the productivity of the grain raising process. It is well known that poly-IJ ester high-twisted fabrics, which exhibit particularly high physical properties, have extremely poor wrinkle resistance, and improvements are expected.

Graining with a rotary washer, which is commonly used as a graining device, provides excellent mechanical properties to the fabric, but as is well known, all processes before and after graining are done by hand, and productivity is extremely poor. It is something. In other words, it is called "andon winding." - After preparing the texture by making the fabric into a spiral shape and binding both ends of the fabric with a thread, it is heated with a washer at 100℃ or under high pressure at 120-130℃ for 2 hours. Process for about an hour and then.

This is the inefficiency of cutting and unraveling the binding threads of "Andon winding".Also, with "Andon winding", the binding threads may be cut during processing, the inside/outside of the fabric may be reversed, or the inside/outside of the fabric may be reversed.
Uniform impact is not applied to the outside.

For these reasons, defects such as grain unevenness and washer wrinkles often occur, impairing the quality of the product. On the other hand, grain raising using a continuous relaxer, which is used as a mere scouring machine other than grain raising, and which continuously processes the spread fabric improves this inefficiency, but due to the structure of the device, the impact force when rubbing the fabric is poor, and it is difficult to create 9-strongly twisted products. It is completely unsuitable for this purpose, and the varieties to which it can be applied are extremely limited.

In recent years, devices that swing with a saw-shaped buckling plate (Special Publication Publication No. 51)
'-5119), continuous rotary washer type (
An improved type of continuous relaxer such as Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 55-116866), or a conventional liquid jet dyeing machine, or as an improvement of this machine, an impact plate is installed in the device to collide the fabric with a rope and circulate it to create a texture. method (Unexamined Japanese Patent Publication No. 55-5706
S), by dropping it onto a small amount of water and applying the buckling action of a so-called "waterfall point" to create wrinkles (JP-A-57-
21555) and the like have been proposed, but none of them are as good as the graininess achieved by washer treatment.

In addition to such mechanical methods, there is a method in which a hydrocarbon-based solvent is used in the graining bath composition in place of the conventional scouring agent such as soda ash (Japanese Patent Application Laid-open No. 18799-1983).

A method using a swelling agent such as Gearia (Japanese Patent Application Laid-open No. 56-37
3) Or, as an improvement from the original yarn, to buffer the setting heat received in the twist prevention setting.

The raw yarn is subjected to high-temperature heat treatment before twisting to increase the torque force for creating the grain (Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 1983-1999).
137231) have been proposed, but none of them can reach the level of continuous graining when used alone, and the process must be performed on the assumption that it will be processed with a washer.

In this way, the actual situation is that the fabric is produced by various combinations of the above-mentioned texturing devices, texturing bath compositions, texturing yarns, etc.

In view of this problem, the inventors of the present invention conducted intensive studies on methods for treating fabrics to create grains, and as a result, they discovered that a new technical element, the impact force of a high-pressure water stream, is effective in reducing grains.9 The present invention has now been developed. It is something.

That is, the present invention is a method for texturing a fabric, which is characterized by using a high-pressure water stream when texturing the fabric.

By adopting such a configuration, the present invention provides the following features for the first time:
It is capable of efficiently producing grains with excellent uniformity in a short period of time, and has the characteristic of being able to create grains extremely effectively, for example, on highly twisted polyester fabrics, which are considered the most difficult to create. Furthermore, the present invention has the great advantage that continuous texturing, which has not been seen in the prior art, can be achieved with the above-mentioned effects.

The texture is a 9 strong twist, or the torque of the fiber bundle gripped by the tissue binding force due to temporary twisting.

It is believed that the strain overcomes the constraining force and is released and developed on the fabric. That is, the release of this torque and strain is the texturing process, and it is said that the texturing property is influenced by four factors (a) of the fourth order.

1 Factor due to the graining temperature 2 Factor due to the composition of the graining bath 6 Factor due to the processing tension during graining 4 Factor due to impact force Currently there is no technology that can overcome all of these factors. For example, in the method using hot air or steam,
Even if .about.3 is satisfied, factor 4 is not given, and methods using Kakitari Rakuza or jet dyeing machines have the drawback of factor 6 because tension is applied in the walking direction of the fabric. Among these conventional techniques, the method using a washer most satisfies the above four factors, but this method has a unique drawback called washer wrinkles, and is currently at a disadvantage in terms of grain uniformity and grain standing. It's not satisfying.

In particular, this method involves forming a fabric into a shape called paandong and then performing batch processing, which has the drawback of extremely poor productivity.

The present inventors have investigated means for ideally satisfying these four factors, and have arrived at the present invention.

That is, according to the high-pressure water stream referred to in the present invention, micro-impact is applied between the fiber structures, and the water stream can be freely selected such as swelling agent-containing water or heated water.
It is possible to provide a sufficient untwisting effect and to apply the above-mentioned micro-impact uniformly to the fabric, so it is possible to achieve uniform graininess at the same time, and since it is continuous processing, productivity is improved. also has extremely high advantages.

The term "high-pressure water flow" as used in the present invention is defined as follows.

"A liquid flow that can apply an impact force strong enough to relieve the sifting, twisting torque, or distortion of the fiber bundles that make up the fabric when making a texture on the fabric." This liquid stream is water,
Single substances such as oils and organic solvents.

or a mixture thereof, but the present invention is not limited thereto. Preferred are aqueous solutions, dispersions, emulsions, and the like containing carriers, alkalis, acids, dyes, resins, smoothing agents, softeners, silicones, and the like.

The specific processing method and effects of the present invention will be described. The treatment pressure is desirably higher than the 2 to 4 bags/aII2 of normal industrial water, and preferably about 10 to 100 y/ha.

The spray nozzles have a diameter of about 300 to 700 μm, and several of them are lined up in the width direction of the fabric, and the treatment liquid is sprayed under such pressure. It is preferable to place the fabric on a wire mesh having a perforated mesh or the like and run it using a conveyor belt or the like for continuous processing. The injected water energy can impart micro-buckling to the intersections of fiber bundles or tissues. For example, an ioo denier fiber bundle is approximately 1
00μ, so theoretically a nozzle diameter of 100μφ is required, but in actual graining, a diameter on the order of a little more macroscopically is sufficient, and the method of swinging the nozzle also improves impact efficiency. enhance This is the preferred method.

The wire mesh or the like on which the fabric is placed embodies the above-mentioned "draining" effect and low tension treatment, and the mesh can be adjusted according to the thread used and the density of the tissue.

As for the treatment temperature, it is possible to apply the treatment at 100°C while increasing the temperature, which is normally done in a one-year machine. Specifically, for example, 6 nozzles are lined up and the treatment is carried out at 6°C, 8°C.
A continuous treatment method in which spraying is performed at 5°C and 100'C in this order is preferable. In this case, it is preferable to circulate the injection liquid from each nozzle as it is and re-inject it. In addition, the present invention also includes injection treatment under pressure at a high temperature of 120 to 160° C., although it is not a continuous method.

As mentioned above, the texture bath composition is not limited to water.

Japanese Patent Publication No. 56-373. An aqueous solution of a carrier, an alkali, a smoothing agent, etc., as seen in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 56-14016/), etc., can also be applied as is, and when applied to the method of the present invention, it can dramatically improve the grain raising property. Grainy texture is the best
Two things to do.

The grain raising method may be a batch method such as the high pressure 7 grain raising method, regardless of the continuous grain raising method.

Alternatively, the present invention also includes a process in which the material is subjected to high-pressure water jet treatment and then embossed using a conventional continuous relaxer, liquid jet dyeing machine, etc., or vice versa. It's a reed.
Not only one piece of fabric, but also multiple layers can be stacked and processed from one side or both sides.

More efficient.

In any case, the two aspects of the present invention are based on the required grain quality.
Water flow pressure, nozzle diameter, treatment temperature, treatment bath composition, grain raising method, etc. can be freely adjusted, making it possible to develop almost any grain quality.

The fabrics referred to in the present invention include synthetic fibers such as polyester, polyamide, and polyacrylic, semi-synthetic fibers such as acetate, recycled fibers such as rayon, cotton, and wool.

It is a knitted fabric made of natural fibers such as silk or a mixture, and especially polyester or polyamide fiber bundles with 200%
Strong twist of around 0 T/1111.

Alternatively, a fabric that has been temporarily twisted at around 200°C and then knitted or woven is preferable.

As explained above, 1) the present invention enables the continuous graining of highly twisted polyester, which is the most difficult process; I am convinced that it is a big deal.

Next, examples of the present invention will be shown, but the present invention is not limited to these in any way.

Example 1 A single polyethylene terephthalate yarn of 75 denier and 66 filaments was used as the warp yarn and the weft yarn, each twisted at 2500 T/M, set at 85° C. with two widths: 112. ,,, Vertical density: 97 lines/inch,
1500 horizontal density near 6 pieces/interval flat jaw set fabric
I wove m. Next, six rod-shaped nozzles with a nozzle diameter of 206 mm, nozzle spacing: 10 mm, and number of nozzles: 100 were manufactured, and 100
From the height of mco, the fabric on a 40 mco wire mesh was subjected to continuous graining treatment at a processing speed of 20 m/min (processed fabric length: 500 m).

The treatment liquid used was an aqueous solution of 02% sol of soda ash, and one set of nozzles to three sets were heated at 65°C and 85°C at 1 m intervals.
Vaginal fluid heated to 98°C and 98°C was injected. The method of the present invention employs a circulation system in which the liquid after injection is collected into a storage tank at each temperature and re-injected.

On the other hand, the woven fabric (processing length: 500 m) was subjected to ``andon winding'' and the temperature was raised to 40 (
Comparative example 1. Textured for 20 minutes at 98°C. and the woven fabric (processing length: 5DOm) is connected in a rope shape,
Using a liquid flow dyeing machine, the ``Circular'' RA model (manufactured by Nichiita Seisakusho ■), the cloth speed: 200 m/min, the temperature was raised for 40 minutes, 9
Comparative Example 2. Comparative Example 1. Textured at 8° C. for 20 minutes. In both Comparative Example 2 and Comparative Example 2, a treatment liquid according to the present invention was used. Table 1 shows the results of texturing using the method of the present invention, Comparative Example (1), and Comparative Example (2).

Next, the two methods of the present invention, Comparative Example (1), and Comparative Example (2) were subjected to centrifugation, alkali reduction, and dyeing according to conventional methods.

I raised the juice.

As shown in Table 1, in Comparative Example (1), the processing time was 60 minutes.

It took 150 minutes to prepare "Andon", 25 minutes to unravel, and 235 minutes in total, and the productivity was extremely poor.

In addition, there were washer wrinkles, and the fabric was rejected and the grain quality was not good. Comparative Example (2) is more efficient than Comparative Example (1), with treatment time = 60 minutes, open surface after treatment: 20 minutes, and total time: 80 minutes, but with graininess.

The grain quality was also extremely poor, and a good quality grained fabric could not be obtained.

On the other hand, the method of the second invention showed excellent graininess, and yielded a georgette crepe that was extremely uniform and had a good grain quality with no processing wrinkles. The processing time is only 25 minutes, which is about 1/9th of Comparative Example (1). Comparative example (
I was able to work extremely efficiently at about 1/6 of 2). In addition,
There were no problems with the high-pressure water treatment, such as poor desizing properties, dyeing problems, or process passability, and the process was extremely smooth.

*1. *2: Shrinkage change rate from the gray fabric before graining, in both the width and length directions of the fabric, the higher the value, the better the graining properties.

*Ro: The thickness of the fabric after graining is measured with a dial thickness meter (manufactured by Owa Seisakusho CO), and the thicker the value, the better the graining properties.

*4: *1. *2. *It is calculated by multiplying all the values.The higher the value, the better the graininess.

*5: Ratio of vertical contraction divided by horizontal contraction. The thicker the value, the better the grain stand.

*6: Judging with the naked eye, if the novo is high and dense, it is considered good.
◎ mark: Very good, ○ mark: Good.

△: Slightly poor, ×: Poor, XX: (1st time, °
That's right.

*7: Judging with the naked eye, those with no defects are considered good.

Wo: Not good at all, Wl: Very good, W2:
Everything is bad, W: Everything is very bad.

*8 items/Those that do not require manual work such as 7717'' preparation before embossing, unraveling after embossing, and rope-like opening were rated as good. ◎ mark: best, ○ mark: good, × Mark: Bad.

Example 2 50 denier, 66 filaments for warp yarn, 1 for weft yarn
Using a single polyester yarn of 50 tenier and 72 filament, the warp yarn is 2 CIOT/M.

The weft yarn was twisted at 260 DT/M, set at 85° C. to prevent twisting, and 200 m of chilimen fabric was woven. Then,
100 m of the fabric was processed using three rod-shaped nozzles with a nozzle diameter of 0.5 mm, a nozzle interval of 10 mm, and a set of 1100 nozzles, and a high-pressure pump similar to Example 1.
kg/cm2 (7) Injection treatment was performed from a high-pressure tube of 150 mIn. In addition, processing temperature and treatment]]1
! The method is the 3-type jetting method, which is similar to Method 1 of the present invention, and the nozzle is oscillated in the direction of the weft of the fabric, and continuous graining treatment is carried out on a 25-mesh wire mesh at a processing speed of 15 m/min. I did it.

In addition, the treatment liquid was a polyester swelling agent "Boriesca Ds" (manufactured by Tatsuyo Kako (2)) 055%, Sol and 1
%CIO] The method of the present invention using an aqueous solution mixed with second caustic soda. On the other hand, the woven fabric (processing length: 1゜Om)
4 pieces of 25m each were "andon-wound" and 2 were heated to 50℃ using a treatment solution similar to the method of the present invention and 2 ordinary washers.
Comparative Example (3) was given in which the texture was embossed for 20 minutes at 98°C. Table 2 shows the texturing results of the method of the present invention and Comparative Example (3). The evaluation method after graining is shown in Table 1 and Example 1.
Follow.

After creating the grain, it was dyed, dyed, and finished using conventional methods.

(3) As shown in Table 2, in the comparative example Yu, the processing time was 70
Minutes, "'Andon" preparation 120 minutes, dissolution 20 minutes, 1.-
It took 210 minutes and work efficiency was extremely poor.

Moreover, the texture was one step further. On the other hand, in the method 2 of the present invention, the processing time is just under 7 minutes, which is 1/3 of that in comparative example (3).
0, processing was possible with extremely high efficiency. In addition, the obtained grain is uniform and all processed wrinkles are <fi-.

A silky high-grade chilimen fabric with an elegant grain texture was obtained. Furthermore, the process can be completed without any problems such as nozzle clogging due to high-pressure water flow, chemical resistance, and process troubles.

Example 6 The warp yarn was made of 140 count wool, the weft yarn was made of 27 count polyethylene terephthalate staple fibers with a diameter of 50 mm, and the weft yarn was 200 T/M.

Twist the weft yarn at 2000T/M, glue it with a PVA/7krylic mixed glue, and tighten it at 60°C to prevent it from twisting.
Weaved 100m of Oni Chirinon, a mixed weave. Next, a set of rod-shaped nozzles with a nozzle diameter of 0.55 sam φ, a nozzle spacing of 15 plates, and a number of nozzles of 70 was made from the 50 m of the fabric, and a high-pressure pump according to Example 1 was used at a pressure of 25 g/cm 2 . 1
The spraying treatment was performed on the fabric placed on a wire mesh of 30 meshes from a height of 0.00 mm. Incidentally, the treatment temperature was 90° C., the treatment speed was 20 m/min, and the nozzle was a swinging force type similar to Example 2 for continuous graining. Treatment liquid: Marcel soap 05g/
l, the method of the present invention using a 0.2 g/J aqueous solution of soda ash.

On the other hand, using a treatment solution according to the method of the present invention, a continuous relaxer ``Sofser'' (manufactured by Nichiban Seisakusho ■) was used for 20 m
Comparative Example (4) was given in which the grain was raised at 90° C./min. Table 3 shows the texturing results of the method of the present invention and Comparative Example (4). Note that the evaluation method after graining is in accordance with Table 1 and Example 1.

After making the grain, it was finished by boiling, dyeing, and paper pressing in accordance with conventional methods.

As shown in Table 6, in Comparative Example (4), the production efficiency was high compared to lotus seedlings produced by the method of the present invention, but the graininess was poor and the grain quality was completely poor. On the other hand, the two methods of the present invention yielded chili noodles of the highest quality, which were uniform, elegant, and had no processing wrinkles. The time required to create the grain was only 5 minutes, and the process was extremely efficient and smooth.

Claims (1)

[Claims] A method for embossing fabric, characterized by using a high-pressure water stream when embossing the fabric.